Chapter XXII: Appendix: D

BOOKS USEFUL TO THE STUDENT OF CHURCH NEEDLEWORK

N.B.—Those marked with * are mostly about embroidery, and the others on design or history, &c.

* Alford, Lady, Needlework as Art.

* Barber, Mary, Some Drawings of Ancient Embroidery.

* Bock, Dr., Geschichte der Liturgischen Gewänder.

Braun, Die Priestlichen Gewänder, &c.

Clausse, G., Les Monuments du Christianisme, &c.

Chambers, Divine Worship in England in Thirteenth Century, &c.

Crane, Walter, Line and Form (and others).

* Davenport, English Embroidered Bookbindings.

Day, Lewis, Several Handbooks on Design.

* Day, Lewis, and Mary Buckle, Art in Needlework.

* Dolby, Anastasia, Church Embroidery.

Dolby, Anastasia, Church Vestments.

* Farcy, Louis de, La Broderie du XIIIᵉ Siècle, &c.

Jameson, Mrs., Sacred and Legendary Art.

Jones, Owen, Grammar of Ornament.

Jones, Owen, Principles, an Attempt to Define, &c.

* Kendrick, A. F., English Embroidery.

* Lefébure, E., Embroidery and Lace.

Legg, J. Wickham, Notes on the History of Liturgical Colours.

Marriott, Vestiarium Christianum.

* Pugin, Glossary of Ecclesiastical Ornament.

* Rock, Dr. Daniel, Textiles, Introduction to.

Rock, Dr. Daniel, Church of our Fathers.

Semper, Der Stil.

* Townsend, W. G. P., Embroidery: or the Craft of the Needle.

Ward, Historic Ornament.

* Wilton, Countess of, The Art of Needlework.

MAGAZINES.

* The Art Workers’ Quarterly.

* Burlington.

* Home Art Work.

* Studio.

Transactions of St. Paul’s Ecclesiological Society. Vols. I.
and II. especially.

INDEX

Albe, an ancient, 86
apparels of, 86
how to make, 86
insertion on old, 87
modern, 87-88
origin of, 85
symbolism of, 53

Almsbags, 67

Altar, keynote of decoration, 39-40
linen required for, 79

Altar-cloth band, 79-80
fair linen, 79

Altar-frontal, 39
early English, 40
to make up, 40-47

Amice, apparel of, 88
of St. Thomas of Canterbury, 88
origin of, 88
symbolism of, 53

Apparels, 57
of albe, 86
of amice, 88
of dalmatic, 24, 57

Appliqué, 21
examples of, 22-24
method of cutting, 26
to prepare, 25
uses of, 25

Apron necessary, 16

Back-stitching, 76

Banners, 65
appliqué suitable for, 25
design for, 64

Basket-stitch, 12

Book-covers, 67

Book-markers, 68

Books, care of, 84

Brocade, 3

Burse, 58, 62
to make, 58, 61

Buttonhole-filling, 75

Buttonhole-stitch, 74

Canvas-stitch, 77

Chain-stitch, 27

Chalice-veil (linen), 83
(silk), 58
design for, 83
specimen of, 63

Chasuble, early English examples, 55
from Harleian MSS., 55
how to make, 56
of St. Ignatius of Loyola, 54
of St. Thomas of Canterbury, 58
origin of, 55
ornament of, ‘flower,’ 56, 59
symbolism of, 53

Cherub, early English, 45

Cingulum or girdle, 53, 85

Clavi, 57

Cloth, linen and woollen, 3
of gold, 3, 9

Colours, 2
isolation of, 21
liturgical, 39
modification of, 10
washing, 16

Cope, measurements of, &c., 49
the, 49
to make up, 50

Coptic embroidery, 28

Corporals, case or burse, 58-62
pair of, 83

Couching (gold), 9
(silk), 15
compared with laid-work, 15, 19

Counter-change, 26

Credence cloth, 85

Crewel-stitch, 20

Cross-stitch, 76-77
like Lacis, 77

Curtains, principles to be observed in hanging, 40

Cut-linen, 82

Dalmatic, 57
apparels of, 24, 57
Clavi, 57
diagram of, 61

Damask, 3

Darning, 20, 21
on drawn-thread, 79, 82

Decoration, futile, 2
of ancient copes, usual arrangement of, 50
some principles of, 2

Design, colour-scheme in, 2

Designers for ecclesiastical art, 2

Designs, to transfer, 6-7

D’or nué, 34, 36

Drawing necessary for figure-work, 29

Emblems, 96

Embroidery, definition of, 1
English, 1
in gold, 9-13
in linen, 72-77
in silks, 15
paste, 25

‘Eye’ of a curve, 74

‘Fair-linen Cloth,’ 79

Fanon or maniple, 53

Feather-stitch, 75

Figure-embroidery, 28-37
Florentine, 35
from frontal of St. Thomas (à Becket) of Canterbury, Salisbury, 33
from Syon cope, 31
imitation of, 91
three methods of, 34

Filling, buttonhole, 75
chain-stitch, 27
stitches suitable for, 74-76

Floss-silk, embroidery in, 15-20
how to use, 16

Flower, ornament called the, 59

Flowers, early English conventional, 42-44

Frames, altar-frontals stretched on, 47
embroidery, 4-6
how to mount for embroidery, 6
making up, 41
position of worker at, 5

French knots, 27

Fringe, importance of, 46
washing of, 82

Frontal, altar-, 39
early English, 40
how to make up, 40-47
keynote as to colour, &c., 39
size, 40

Garments in embroidery, treatment of, 29, 30, 32, 91
liturgical, 53

Girdle of silk at Sarum, 85
the, use and symbolism of, 53

Gold, cloth of, 3, 9
d’or nué, 34, 36
embroidery, 9-13
raised work, 12
stitches useful for, 10, 11
thread, different kinds of, 3-4

Hands, special care of the, 16

Hangings, various, 40

Herring-bone-stitch, 75
close, 76
Swiss, 76

Herse-cloth or pall, 66, 67, 71
colour of, 67

History of embroidery, 1

Houseling-cloth, 84

Imitations condemned, 2, 91

Inlay, 26

Insertion, 86, 87

Kneelers, 68

Lace suitable for linen, 82

Lacis, 77

Laid-work, 15-19
compared with couching, 15, 19

Lavabo towels, 84

Light, arrangement of, 5

Linen, altar, 79
coloured, 3
coloured embroidery on white, 80
corporal, 83
‘cut,’ 82
drawn-thread, 79-82
embroidery, principal stitches, 73-77
fringe, to wash, 82
vestments, 85

Linen-work, materials for, 73
sampler, 72

Lines, ‘Sympathetic,’ 76

Long- and short-stitch, 17

Maniple, origin and symbolism of, 53
shape and size of, 53-55
the, 53

Materials for backgrounds, 3
for embroidery, 3-5
for linen-work, 73

Mitre, 51-52
of St. Thomas of Canterbury, 51

Needles, 4
to improve, 4

‘Opus Anglicanum,’ 32

Outline, 21
principle of, 21
secondary, 23

Padding in gold-work, 12
in linen-work, 74

Pall or herse-cloth, 66, 67
linen, 83-84

Parchment, use of, 12, 52

Paste, embroidery, to make, 25

Plate, 13

Plumage-stitch, 17

Principles, a few—
of colour, 21
of decoration, 2
of embroidery as art, 1
of proportion, 47, 66

Pulpit-hanging, 70

Purificators, 84

Radiation, principle of, 17

Relief, high, 12, 74
exaggerated, 30

Rochet, 89

Saint Ignatius of Loyola, 54
Thomas of Canterbury’s amice, 88
apparel, 88
chasuble, 58
mitre, 51

Sampler for gold-work, 8
for linen-work, 72
for silk-work, 14

Shades of floss-silk, 2-15
in old work, 36

Shading, 15, 16

Silk and satin, 3
embroidery, 15
embroidery compared with linen, 74

Silks, embroidery, 4

Soap, carbolic, &c., to avoid, 16

Stitches—Back-stitch, 76
basket-stitch, 12
buttonhole, 74
canvas or cushion, 77
chain, 27
couching, 9, 10, 11, 15, 61
cross, 76
drawn-thread, 81
feather, 75
French knots, 27
herring-bone, 75
laid-stitch, 15-19
nué (d’or), 34, 36
open-worked cross-stitch, 77
satin, 16, 17, 18
linen, 74
short, 17, 34
slanting, 20
split-stitch, 18, 29, 30, 32, 36

Stole, origin and symbolism of the, 53
shape and design, 55
size of the, 53

Stuffing-cotton, 12

Sudaries, 84

Super-frontal or frontlet, 46

Surplice, ancient, 89
diagram, 90
Dr. Rock’s pattern, 90
how to make, 89
modern, 89

Symbols, 96

‘Sympathetic lines,’ 76

Syon cope, arrangement of design, 32
background of, 37
colours of, 32
figure from the, 31
gold-work of, 36
method of work, 36

Toga, Roman, 49

Towels, Lavabo, 84

Trabea, 49

Tunicle, 57

Veil, chalice (silk), 58, 63
(linen), 83
humeral, 84
offertory, 84

Velvet, 3

Vestments, Eucharistic, 53
colours of, 39, 53
symbolism of, 53
linen, 85-90
of Walter de Cantelupe, fragments of, 30
‘white shining,’ 85

White linen, decoration of, 73, 74

Worcester, bishop’s tomb at, 56
fragment of vestments, 30

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