Chapter VI: Part 6

Other mountains in the neighbourhood of Killarney are _Mangerton_ (2,756 ft.); _Toomies_ (2,415 ft.); _Purple Mountain_ (2,739 ft.); _Turc Mountain_ (1,764 ft.), and the _Paps_ (2,268 ft.) Of these none afford any real climbing. On Mangerton, however, the Horse's Glen is surrounded by rocky declivities, and the Devil's Punch Bowl has a slight cliff above it. From Killarney by rail to Headfort, and then back over the Paps and Mangerton, and through the Horse's Glen, is a fine walk. Another fine walk is from the lake, whither one proceeds from Killarney by boat, up Toomies Mountain, over Purple Mountain, and Turc Mountain, and Mangerton can be included on the way back.

The Eagle's Cliff, above the lake, looks climbable and is reported to have been done. The writer, hurrying to the Reeks, always grudged time for the attempt.

_Blasquets Islands_ lie off the extreme west of Kerry. They consist generally of grits and slates.

Mr. Barrington (_Report on the Flora, &c._) describes the Great Blasquet as a ridge about 700 ft. high for most of its length, but for about a mile it exceeds 900 ft. The ridge is almost perpendicular in many places. 'The cliffs and precipices are very grand, notably the north-western face of the Great Blasquet and the north-eastern portion of Inishnabro, which latter resembles, when viewed from the sea, a cathedral 500 ft. high, the towers, spires, and even doors and windows being represented. Inishtooskert has an isolated pinnacle of rock, with a great chasm in the cliff near it, scarcely less striking. The Tearaght is like a black tooth projecting from the ocean, its sides being rocky, desolate, and very barren.' The present writer was prevented from reaching these islands by stormy weather.

* * * * *

=Co. Cork.=--_Sugarloaf Mountain_ (2,440 ft.)--An isolated, bare, conical peak, at the head of the Black Valley (Cummeenduff), the southern boundary of the Reeks. Sunshine after rain makes it glitter like a snowy peak. The rock is steep and glaciated. On the steepest face an interesting ascent may be made--easy, but requiring extreme care.

South of the Kenmare River the hills are of less interest, though the beautiful Glengariff lies amongst them.

_Hungry Hill_ (2,251 ft.) presents one precipitous face to the west, where a piece of interesting gully work occurs. The writer has reason to remember it, owing to the imprisonment of a bull-terrier, the property of a companion, in the middle of the climb. After completing the ascent the deafening howls of the prisoner made it necessary to work round to the base of the gully and help the beloved creature down. An almost identical incident occurred in a worse situation in the Poisoned Glen of Donegal. A bit of rope should be attached to the neck of any dog that follows a rock-climber.

_Gougaun Barra_ ('St. Fin Bar's Rock-Cleft') is a gorge on the road west from Macroom to Bantry. The cliffs around rise from a desolate valley to meet the slopes of the mountains, 1,700-1,800 ft. high.

On the road Keimaneigh ('the Pass of the Deer') is traversed, a gorge through the Sheha hills some 2 miles in length. It is a scene of wild beauty, and was the head-quarters of the band under 'Captain' Rock. This defile can be visited from Inchigeelagh, a few miles eastwards, where there is good fishing and accommodation.

On Gougaun Barra, Otway (_Scenes and Sketches in Ireland_) and Smith (_History of Cork)_ have a good deal to say.

* * * * *

=Tipperary.=--_The Galtee Mountains_ extend about 15 miles from Caher at the eastern to Massy Lodge at the western extremity. The ridge slopes gently to the south, but abruptly to the vale of Aherlow on the north.

The formation is Silurian, with overlying beds of old red sandstone conglomerate forming the summit of Galtymore (3,018 ft.) The Silurian beds form considerable precipices upon the north, almost enclosing numerous tarns, from which interesting ascents may be made.

The best head-quarters for the mountains is Tipperary, about 6 miles north of the base of the range below its highest point. No doubt, however, accommodation could be arranged for at some of the farmhouses in the vale of Aherlow. The entire range from Caher to Mitchelstown forms a splendid walk. Lough Curra and Lough Muskry are the most interesting points to make for, and lie amongst the finest cliffs. Lough Diheen is the most remote and barren.

At Lough Curra the cliffs descend 1,000 ft. sheer into the water. These cliffs afford attractive but dangerous climbing. They reach to within a couple of hundred feet of the highest point, known as Dawson's Table, or Galtymore.

Still grander, however, are the cliffs above Lough Muskry. These tower to a height of about 1,200 ft. in great terraces and vegetated walls above the north and north-east ends of the lake. Numerous clefts, ravines, and ledges exist.

Should the climber get pounded here (as not seldom happens) let him beware of undue haste. A mouthful of food has a wonderful effect in steadying the nerves. The holds here are often sods of dubious security, and the Muskry precipices, though they _can_ be traversed in all directions, are the severest amongst the Galtees.

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=Co. Waterford.= _Commeragh Mountains._--The Commeragh Mountains may be explored from Kilmacthomas on the south, Clonmell on the west, or Caher on the north. They form an elevated plateau, bounded on all sides by steep and frequently inaccessible precipices, which enclose cooms and tarns. The highest point is 2,597 ft., and the rock is for the most part sandstone or conglomerate of the old red sandstone period. Slates and shales occur on the northern side.

The cliffs can be climbed in many places. As on the Galtees, a few miles west, dense masses of a species of woodrush often render the holding treacherous. Smith (_History of Waterford_, 1774) says, 'On the sides of this chain there are many horrid precipices, and steep declivities, with large naked rocks. In the valleys considerable chips, or parings, lie in prodigious heaps.'

The most imposing precipices are those enclosing in a magnificent sweep the Stilloge Lakes, on the south side of the group; and those above Coonshingaun Lough and Crotty's Lough at the eastern end.

This east lake takes its name from one Crotty, an outlaw, who made his home in a cave here during the last century. Legends of this worthy abound in the district.

The cliffs are often wholly inaccessible without a rope, but a great deal of excellent climbing can be effected with no artificial aids. In search of rare plants the writer has made several distinct ascents above the Stilloges, and also at Coonshingaun, quite apart from the easier gully tracks, by which the ordinary visitor gains the top. The mountains are singularly picturesque. The verdure-clad cliffs, overhanging the deep, rock-bound, lonely tarns, have an effect that is at once rare and beautiful.

INDEX

Aber, 1

Aberglaslyn, 95

Abergynolwyn, 10

Accidents, 1, 2, 9, 21, 25, 54, 56, 58, 67, 70, 72, 73, 82, 86, 88, 89,
90, 91, 108, 126, 139, 176

Achill, 158

Anglesey, 15

Antrim, 131

Aranmore Island, 143

Arans (The), 99

Arenig Fawr, 98

Asko Keeran, 162

Bala, 2

Barmouth, 3

Barnesmore Gap, 153

Beddgelert, 3

Beddgelert (Snowdon from), 4

Beenkeragh, 186

Ben Bulben, 155

Benchoona, 165

Benglog, 5

Berwyn Mountains, 94

Bethesda, 6

Bird Rock, 108

Black Ladders, 19

Black Mountains, 13, 126

Blaenau Ffestiniog, 9

Blasquets, 189

Blue Stack, 152

Braichddu, 18, 19

Brandon, 179

Brecon Beacons, 13

Bronyfedw, 14

Bryansford, 169

Bull's Mountain, 187

Bunglas, 145

Burton Port, 143

Bwlch Cwm y Llan, 87

Bwlch Goch, 61

Bwlch y Saethau, 76

Caddy of Cwm Glas, 60

Cader Fronwen, 94

Cader Idris, 106

Cambrian Railway, 7, 95

Capel Curig, 6

Carnarvonshire, 16

Carndonagh, 135

Carnedd Dafydd, 17

Carnedd Llewelyn, 23

Carnedd Ugain, 67

Carnedd y Filiast, 25

'Carrabuncle' (The), 181

Carran Tuohill, 185

Carrick Hotel, 145

Carrig-a-Rede, 133

Castell Cidwm, 93

Castell Gwynt, 34

Castles (The), 171

Cefnysgolion Duon, 19

Clare Co., 167

Clew Bay, 160

Cloghane, 179

Clogwyn Aderyn, 69

Clogwyn Penllechen, 69

Clogwyn y Garnedd, 72

Clogwyn y Person, 58

Clogwyndur Arddu, 89

Closs (Death of), 91

Cnicht, 96

Commeragh Mountains, 192

Cork Co., 190

Corris, 10

Cox (Mr.), 88

Craig Ddrwg, 98

Craig Eryri, 54

Craig y Bera, 94

Craig yr Ysfa, 21

Craiglyn Dyfi, 103

Crazy Pinnacle, 64

Crib Goch, 60

Crib y Ddysgl, 66

Croagh Patrick, 160

Croghaun, 158

Cumloughra, 185

Cwm Creigiog, 88

Cwm Dyli, 68

Cwm Glas, 56

Cwm y Llan, 87

Cyfrwy, 113

Cynfael Falls, 9

Cynicht, 96

Dawson's Table, 192

Denbighshire, 94

Devil's Kitchen, 28

Devil's Looking Glass, 186

Devil's Punch Bowl, 189

Dinas Bran, 94

Dinas Mawddwy, 7

Dingle, 179

Dismore (Mr.), 58

Dolgelly, 7

Donegal, 134

Down Co., 169

Dublin Co., 171

Dunaff Head, 136

Dunfanaghy, 139

Dungloe, 144

Dunloe (Gap of), 182

Eagle's Cliff, 189

Eagle's Nest, 147

Eglwyseg, 94

Elicydu, 25

Elider, 25

Empson (Mr.), 2

Errigal, 140

Esgair Felen, 42

Evans (Mr. Alf.), 82

Fair Head, 131

Fanet, 137

Ffestiniog, 9

Foelgoch, 26

Frodsham (Mr. G. H.), 90

Gallt y Wenallt, 76

Galtee Mountains, 191

Galway, 164

Gap of Doonmore, 138

Gap of Dunloe, 182

Garnedd Goch, 92

Giant's Causeway, 134

Glaslyn, 69

Glen Car, 183

Glen Gesh, 154

Glen Head, 145

Glenariff, 133

Glenbeagh, 142

Glengad Head, 135

Glengariff, 190

Glyder Fach, 31

Glyder Fawr, 36

Golf, 156

Gougaun Barra, 191

Grey Man's Path, 131

Guides, 183

Gweedore, 141

Hag's Glen, 183, 187

Haseler (Mr. Maxwell), 73

Hill names, 161

Homer (Mr. Philip), 54

Horn Head, 138

Howth, 174

Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, 9

Hungry Hill, 190

Inishowen, 135

Ireland's Eye, 174

Jackson (Rev. James), 12

Keimaneigh, 191

Kendal (Mr. E. G.), 70

Kerry Co., 179

Killarney, 183

Killary, 165

Kingsley (Charles), 12

King's Mountain, 155

Kinlough, 156

Lambay, 171

Leenane Inn, 158, 163

Lisdoonvarna, 167

Livesley (Mr.), 56

Llaithnant, 105

Llanberis, 9

Llangynog, 95

Llechog, 91

Lliwedd, 74

Llyndulyn, 24

Lough Eske, 152

Lough Muskry, 192

Lough Salt, 142

Lough Swilly, 186

Lugnaquilia, 176

Maamtrasna, 162

Maamturk, 164

Macgillicuddy's Reeks, 182

Machynlleth, 10

MacSwyne's Gun, 143

Maentwrog Road, 15

Malin Head, 135

Mangerton, 189

Marble Arch, 143

Marzials (Miss), 9

Maum Glen, 144

Mayo Co., 156

Melynllyn, 24

Merionethshire, 95

Mitchell (Mr. J.), 86

Moel Eilio, 91

Moel Hebog, 92

Moel Siabod, 52

Moel Sych, 94

Moel Wyn, 96

Moher Cliffs, 167

Montgomeryshire, 94

Mount Aitchin, 188

Mourne Mountains, 169

Muckanaght, 166

Muckish, 140

Mweelrea, 160

Mynydd Mawr, 93

Nantlle, 10

Nephin, 156

Newcastle, 169

Ogwen Cottage, 5

One Man's Pass, 149

Orme's Head, 94

Owen (Harry), 11

Paget (Mr.), 2

Pantylluchfa, 69

Parson's Nose, 58

Payne (Mr.), 1

Pen Helig, 25

Penmaenmawr, 16

Penygroes, 11

Penygwrhyd, 11

Penyroleuwen, 18

'Phouca' (The), 140

Pleaskin Head, 134

Poisoned Glen, 141

Portsalon, 137

Powerscourt, 175

Prisons of Lugnaquilia, 176

Purple Mountain, 189

Rhayader, 13

Rhinog Fawr, 97

Rosapenna, 138

Rostrevor, 169

St. Kevin's Bed, 177

Slanting Gully, 85

Slieve Donard, 171

Slieve Glas, 182

Slieve League, 145

Smith (Death of), 108

Snowdon, 54

Snowdon Ranger, 13

Southey benighted, 54

Spellick, 171

Stacks, 15

Starr (Rev. H. W.), 89

Stilloge Lakes, 193

Sturrell, 144

Tanybwlch, 14

Tonelagee, 176

Tormore, 139, 144

Tory Island, 139

Trigfylchau, 36, 44

Tryfaen, 44

Twelve Bens or Pins, 166

Twll Du, 28

Waterford Co., 192

Wicklow Co., 175

Williams (W.), 72

Wills (Mr.), 2

Wilton (Mr. F. R.), 67

Y Garn, 28

Y Wyddfa, 54

Yr Elen, 25

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Transcriber's note:

_Underscores_ have been used to indicate _italic_ fonts.
=Equals signs= have been used to indicate =bold= fonts.
The alternate spellings Carnarvonshire and Caernarvonshire both appear
in the original. I have left them as written (both are accepted
spellings).
Inconsistent hyphenation and dashes (e.g. number-ft vs. number ft) are left as written.

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