Chapter V: Part 5

Theatres.—There are altogether in London a large number. Of these the following are the principal:—_Her Majesty’s Theatre_, on the western side of the Haymarket, is the original of the two Italian Opera Houses in London; it was built in 1790, on the site of an older theatre, burnt down in 1867, and re-built in 1869. It is occasionally unoccupied. The freehold of some of the boxes has been sold for as much as £8,000 each. The Opera Season is generally from March to August; but the main attractions and the largest audiences are from May to July. The _Royal Italian Opera House_, occupying the site of the former Covent Garden Theatre, was built in 1858, on the ruins of one destroyed by fire. The building is very remarkable, both within and without. Under the lesseeship of Mr. Gye, and the conductorship of Mr. (now Sir Michael) Costa, operas have been produced here with a completeness scarcely paralleled in Europe. When not required for _Italian Operas_, the building is occupied usually by an _English Opera_ Company, or occasionally for miscellaneous concerts. The _Floral Hall_, adjoining this theatre, is occasionally engaged for concerts. _Drury Lane Theatre_, the fourth on the same site, was built in 1812; its glories live in the past, for the legitimate drama now alternates there with entertainments of a more spectacular and melodramatic character. The _Haymarket Theatre_, exactly opposite Her Majesty’s, was built in 1821; under Mr. Buckstone’s management, comedy and farce are chiefly performed. The _Adelphi Theatre_, in the Strand, near Southampton Street, was rebuilt in 1858; it has for forty years been celebrated for melodramas, and for the attractiveness of its comic actors. The present lessee, Mr. Webster, has the merit of having introduced many improvements for the comfort of the audience. The _Lyceum Theatre_, or _English Opera House_, at the corner of Wellington Street, Strand, was built in 1834; it was intended as an English Opera House, but its fortunes have been fluctuating, and the performances are not of a definite kind. The _Princess’s Theatre_, on the north side of Oxford Street, was built in 1830; after a few years of opera and miscellaneous dramas, it became the scene of Mr. Charles Kean’s Shakspearian revivals, and now resembles most of the other theatres. _St. James’s Theatre_, in King Street, St. James’s, was built for Braham, the celebrated singer; it was a losing speculation to him; and although a really beautiful theatre inside, its managerial arrangements have been very changeable of late years. The _Olympic Theatre_, in Wych Street, Drury Lane, is small, but well conducted and successful. The _Strand Theatre_, near the Olympic, has been remarkable for its burlesque extravaganzes. The _New Globe Theatre_, Newcastle Street, Strand, and the _Gaiety_, 345 Strand, and lastly the _Vaudeville_, (for comedy, farce, and burlesque,) near the _Adelphi_, are all of comparatively recent erection; so are the _Court Theatre_, near Sloane Square; the _Charing Cross Theatre_, King William Street; the _Queen’s Theatre_, Long Acre, late _St. Martin’s Hall_; and the _Holborn Theatre_. The _New Royalty_, or _Soho Theatre_, in Dean Street, Soho, was once a private theatre, belonging to Miss Kelly, the celebrated actress. The _Prince of Wales’s Theatre_, in Tottenham Street, is the old Tottenham Theatre in a renovated and greatly improved condition. Some of Mr. T. W. Robertson’s best comedies have been produced here within the last few years. _Sadler’s Wells_, near the New River Head, was at one time remarkable for the ‘real water’ displayed in melodramas. The _Marylebone Theatre_, between Regent’s Park and the Edgeware Road; the _Grecian_, in the City Road; the _Britannia_, at Hoxton; the _City of London_, in Norton Folgate; the _Standard_, in Shoreditch; and the _Pavilion_, in Whitechapel, are Theatres noticeable for the large numbers of persons accommodated, and the lowness of the prices of admission. On the Surrey side of the Thames are _Astley’s Amphitheatre_, in the Westminster Road, (the Circus is now removed;) the _Victoria Theatre_, in the Waterloo Road; and the _Surrey Theatre_, in Blackfriars Road. The performances at these several theatres commence at an hour varying from half-past six (some of the minors) to half-past eight (two Opera houses) in the evening, but the most usual hour is seven; and, as a general rule, there is half-price at a later hour in the evening. During the run of the Christmas pantomimes there are a few additional performances at two in the afternoon. It has recently been estimated that 4,000 persons are employed at the London theatres, earning daily food for probably 12,000; and that the public spend about £350,000 at those places annually.

Concerts.—The principal Concert Rooms in London are, _Exeter Hall_, _St. James’s Hall_, _Hanover Square Rooms_, the _Music Hall_, in Store Street, the _Floral Hall_, _Willis’ Rooms_, and the _Queen’s Concert Room_, attached to Her Majesty’s Theatre. All these places are engaged for single concerts; but there are also musical societies and choral bodies which give series of concerts every year. Among these are the _Sacred Harmonic Society_, (Exeter Hall,) the _National Choral Society_, (same place,) the _Philharmonic Society_, (Hanover Square Rooms,) _Mr. Henry Leslie’s Choir_, the _New Philharmonic_, (St. James’s Hall,) the _Musical Society_, the _Musical Union_, the _Glee and Madrigal Society_, the _Beethoven Society_, the _Monday Popular Concerts_, &c. The _Oratorio_ performances at Exeter Hall, by the Sacred Harmonic and National Choral Societies, are considered to be the finest of the kind in Europe. There are occasional _Handel Choral Meetings_ at the same place, under Sir Michael Costa, supported by 1,600 singers.

Tavern Music Halls.—Numerous Rooms connected with taverns have been opened in London, within the last few years, for musical performances. The music is a singular compound of Italian, English, and German operatic compositions, fairly executed, with comic songs of the most extravagant kind; to these are added what the performers please to term ‘nigger’ dances, and athletic and rope-dancing feats—the whole accompanied by drinking and smoking on the part of the audience. The chief among these places are, _Canterbury Hall_, near the Westminster Road; the _Oxford_, in Oxford Street; the _Royal Music Hall_, late _Weston’s_, in Holborn; the _Alhambra_, in Leicester Square; the _Philharmonic_, Islington, near the _Angel_. _Evans’_, in Covent Garden, does not as a rule admit females, though ladies, friends of the proprietor, &c., are occasionally allowed to look down on the proceedings from wired-in private boxes above the line of the stage. _Evans’_ has long been honourably known for its old English glees, catches, madrigals, &c., good supper, and gentlemanly arrangements and audiences. The _Raglan_, the _Winchester_, the _South London_, and others, are of plainer character. Charge, usually 6d. to 1s. Mr. Morton, the former proprietor of _Canterbury Hall_, provided a capital gallery of pictures, (_Punch’s_ ‘Royal Academy over the Water,’) placed freely open to the visitors to the Music Hall.

Entertainments.—There is a class of London amusements, called _Entertainments_, which has come much into fashion within a few years. They generally last about two hours, from eight till ten in the evening. The late Mr. Albert Smith was one of the first to commence these entertainments, with his ‘_Overland Route_,’ ‘_Mont Blanc_,’ and ‘_China_;’ and the names of other well known entertainers are, Mr. Woodin, Mr. and Mrs. German Reed, Mr. John Parry, Mr. A. Sketchley, Mr. and Mrs. Howard Paul, &c. Delineation of character, painted scenery, descriptive sketches, singing, music, ventriloquism—some or all of these supply the materials from which these entertainments are got up. Sometimes the _programme_ of performances is of a less rational character, depending on the incongruities of so-called negro melodists; while occasionally a higher tone is adopted, as in ‘_Readings_,’ by various persons. The principal halls or rooms in which these entertainments are held are the _Egyptian Hall_, Piccadilly; the _Gallery of Illustration_, Regent Street; the minor rooms at _St. James’s Hall_; and the _Music Hall_, in Store Street. The prices of admission generally vary from 1s. to 3s. The leading pages of the daily newspapers, and more especially of the _Times_, will always shew which of these entertainments are open at any particular time.

Miscellaneous Amusements.—The sources of information just mentioned will also notify particulars of numerous other places of amusement, which need not be separately classified. Among these are the _Polytechnic Institution_, Regent Street, (famous for Mr. Pepper’s ‘Ghosts;’) and _Madame Tussaud’s Waxwork_, Baker Street, Portman Square, (a favourite exhibition with country visitors.) To all such places the charge of admission is 1s. Among _Pleasure Gardens_, for music, dancing, tight and slack rope performances, &c., _Cremorne Gardens_, at Chelsea, _St. Helena Gardens_, at Rotherhithe, the _Riverside Gardens_, at North Woolwich, and the _Surrey Gardens_, near Walworth, are the principal; _Vauxhall Gardens_ have disappeared as places of amusement, and have been supplanted by bricks and mortar. The so-called _Tea Gardens_ are much more numerous, and are supported rather by the profit on the beverages sold, than by the fee charged for admission.

A few additional particulars concerning _Free Exhibitions_, _Shilling Exhibitions_, and Exhibitions available only by Introduction, are given in the _Appendix_.

PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND HORTICULTURAL GARDENS.

Much has been done within the last few years towards adorning the metropolis with health-giving parks and grounds freely open to the public. The gardens of three scientific societies, gradually brought into a very attractive state, are also accessible, though not without payment.

St. James’s Park.—This is so called from St. James’s Palace, which partly bounds it on the north. Originally these grounds were a marshy waste, which was drained and otherwise improved by Henry VIII.; who also took down an ancient hospital dedicated to St. James, and built on its site the palace now called St. James’s. Charles II. improved the grounds by planting the avenues of lime-trees on the north and south sides of the park; and by forming the _Mall_, which was a hollowed, smooth, gravelled space, half a mile long, skirted with a wooden border, for playing at ball. The southern avenue was appropriated to aviaries; hence it derived the appellation Birdcage Walk. The centre of the park was occupied by canals and ponds for aquatic birds. William III. threw the park open to the public for their recreation. Within the last thirty years the park has been greatly improved. It is nearly a mile and a-half in circumference, and covers about 90 acres; and the avenues form delightful shady promenades. In the centre is a fine piece of water, interspersed with islands, and dotted with swans and water-fowl; a bridge was built across this water in 1857. On each side are spacious lawns, enriched with lofty trees and flowering shrubs. The lawns are separated from the avenues by iron railings, and at different parts are keepers’ lodges. There are nine or ten entrances to the park, the Queen’s Guard doing duty at each, day and night. At the east side is a large gravelled space, called the _Parade_, on which, about ten o’clock every morning, the body-guards required for the day are mustered—and here the regimental bands perform for a time in fine weather. Here also guns are fired on state occasions. At the south side of the parade is placed a huge mortar, brought from Spain, where it was used during the Peninsular war; it can propel a bombshell nearly four miles. At the north end of the parade is a piece of Turkish ordnance, of great length, brought from Alexandria, in Egypt. A little farther north from the parade is a broad flight of steps, giving entrance to the park from Waterloo Place, constructed by order of William IV.; these steps are surmounted by a lofty column, commemorative of the late Duke of York, which occupies the spot where formerly stood Carlton House, the favourite residence of George IV. while Prince Regent. (Near here the band of the Commissionaires plays on summer evenings.) Farther along the Mall, or avenue, is Marlborough House; next to which is St. James’s Palace, separated by Stafford House from the Green Park. At the western end is Buckingham Palace; and on the southern side, Birdcage Walk, and the Wellington Barracks. This park, all things considered, is one of the greatest ornaments to the metropolis. The lake or water is a famous skating-place in winter; and having been brought to a maximum and nearly uniform depth of four feet, there is little danger of drowning by the breakage of the ice.

The Green Park.—This park, less attractive than St. James’s, and occupying about 60 acres, rises with a gentle slope to the north of Buckingham Palace, and is bounded on its east side by many fine mansions of the nobility—including those of the Duke of Sutherland, and the Earls Spencer, Ellesmere, and Yarborough. In a north-westerly direction from the palace is a broad road called Constitution Hill, connecting St. James’s Park with Hyde Park Corner. On the north is the line of terrace-like street forming the western portion of Piccadilly. The whole of the Green Park is surrounded by iron railings, and is interesting from its undulating grassy surface, which rises considerably on the north side. From the highest ground there is a pleasing prospect of Buckingham Palace, and of St. James’s Park, with its ornamental grounds and avenues of tall trees; and behind these Westminster Abbey and the new Houses of Parliament majestically rise, accompanied by the turrets of other buildings. At the north-west angle of the park, where Constitution Hill joins Piccadilly, is a triumphal arch of the reign of George IV., elaborately decorated, but possessing little general effect. The largest equestrian statue in England, that of the Duke of Wellington, stands on this arch; where it was placed in defiance of the opinion of persons of taste, who protested against the incongruity of such an arrangement. Across the way is the handsome entrance to Hyde Park, close to Apsley House, the great Duke’s residence; and here, in the after-part of the day, in fine weather, may be seen an extraordinary concourse of foot-passengers, vehicles, and equestrians, going to and returning from Hyde Park; also the general traffic between Piccadilly and Kensington, Brompton, and other places in a westerly direction.

Hyde Park.—This fine open place is part of the ancient manor of Hida, which belonged to the monastery of St. Peter, at Westminster, till Henry VIII. appropriated it differently. Its extent is about 390 acres, part of which is considerably elevated. The whole is intersected with noble roads and paths, and luxuriant trees, planted singly or in groups, presenting very diversified prospects. Near the south-east corner, the entrance from Piccadilly, on an elevated pedestal, stands a colossal bronze statue of Achilles, cast from the cannon taken at the battles of Salamanca and Waterloo, weighing thirty tons, and (as the inscription informs us) ‘erected to the Duke of Wellington and his companions in arms by their countrywomen.’ [Picture: Knightsbridge, Albert Gate, Hyde Park, &c. (Brompton and Kensington Roads in the distance.)] It cost £10,000, and was the work of Sir R. Westmacott. The south-east entrance to the park, near Apsley House, is marked by a handsome series of arches and balustrades, from the designs of Mr. Decimus Burton. The north-east entrance, at the end of Oxford Street, now comprises the _Marble Arch_, removed from the front of Buckingham Palace. The other entrances, of which there are several, are less ornate. The long sheet of water called the _Serpentine_ enriches the scenery of Hyde Park. Near its western extremity is a stone bridge, of five large and two smaller arches, erected in 1826, giving access to the gardens of Kensington Palace; and the portion of the Serpentine contained within the gardens has lately been rendered very attractive, by the formation, at its head, of a small Italian garden, with fountains, statuary, &c. The carriage-drive on the northern bank of the Serpentine is called the _Ladies’ Mile_. On the level space of Hyde Park troops of the line and volunteers are occasionally reviewed. There is a well-stored magazine near the western side. The broad road through the park to Kensington is denominated Rotten Row, and is a fashionable resort for equestrians of both sexes, but is not open to wheel-carriages. Other roads display countless elegant equipages of wealth and fashion; while the footpaths, which are railed off from the roads, are favourite places of resort for visitors, who enjoy the salubrity of the air, and the gaiety of the scene, more particularly between five and seven on a summer afternoon. There are several entrances open from early morning till ten at night. No stage or hackney coaches, carts, or waggons, are permitted within the gates of Hyde Park—with the exception of a road-way, made at the time of the International Exhibition in 1862, and since kept up, across the park, near Kensington Gardens, for passenger-vehicles. The Serpentine is much frequented for bathing and skating. It has been recently cleaned out, and drained to that end; the Royal Humane Society have a receiving-house near at hand, to aid those whose lives may be endangered. The morning and evening hours for bathing are defined by regulations placarded in various places. The Great Exhibition of 1851, the first of its kind, was held in a Crystal Palace near the south-west corner of the park. The Exhibition building of 1862 was beyond the limits of the park. The _Albert Memorial_ is at the Kensington end of Hyde Park.

London International Exhibition.—Not far beyond Prince’s Gate, Hyde Park, is the London International Exhibition of 1873, which opened on the 1st May, and will continue open till the 30th September of this year. The ground plan and the view of the building which we give will save unnecessary expenditure of our space, which is obviously limited. [Picture: Ground Plan] Among the many objects of interest are shewn selected specimens as follows:—Pictures, Oil and Water Colour; Sculpture; Decorative Furniture, Plate, Designs, Mosaics, &c.; Stained Glass; Architecture and Models; Engravings; Lithography; Photography as a Fine Art; Porcelain; Earthenware of all kinds; Terra-Cotta and Stoneware; Machinery used for Pottery of all kinds; Woollen Manufactures; Carpets; Worsted Manufactures; Machinery, in motion, used in Woollen and Worsted Manufactures; Live Alpacas, remarkable for their hair and wool, and other animals; Educational Works and Appliances; Scientific Inventions and Discoveries; Horticulture. In the Royal Albert Hall musical art is represented daily.

[Picture: London International Exhibition, 1873]

Kensington Gardens.—At the western extremity of Hyde Park lie Kensington Gardens, a large piece of ground laid out in the ornamental park style, interspersed with walks, and ornamented with rows and clumps of noble trees. Besides entrances from Hyde Park, there are others from the Knightsbridge and Bayswater Roads. Near the west end of the grounds stands Kensington Palace. The gardens have been more than once considerably extended, so that they now measure about two and a-half miles in circumference. There are some beautiful gates on the south side, which were contributed by the Coalbrook Dale Company to the Great Exhibition of 1851. These grounds form a most delightful public promenade during fine weather; especially on summer evenings, when one of the Guards’ bands frequently plays near the south-east corner.

Regent’s Park.—This beautiful park is situated considerably away from the other parks, in a northerly direction from the Marylebone Road. It consists of a nearly circular enclosure of about 470 acres, laid out on the approved principles of landscape gardening; its centre is enriched with lakes, plantations, shrubberies, and beds of flowers. Many of the Metropolitan Volunteer Rifle Corps exercise and drill in this park, in all except the winter months. The park is surrounded by extensive ranges of buildings, forming terraces, variously designated, and decorated with sculpture in agreement with their respective orders of architecture: producing an effect of much grandeur, though, in some instances, of questionable taste. Three or four isolated mansions occupy sites within the park. The outer drive is two miles in circuit; the inner drive is a perfect circle, with two outlets. At Mr. Bishop’s Observatory, near this inner circle, Mr. Hind made most of his important discoveries of asteroids and comets. Near the south-eastern corner of the park the _Colosseum_ stands conspicuous. It is now closed. The Zoological and Botanical Gardens will be described presently. Some distance north of the Colosseum are St. Katharine’s Hospital and Chapel—a very luxurious provision for ‘six poor bachelors and six poor spinsters.’ Near the Colosseum was the once celebrated exhibition called the _Diorama_, which was some years ago converted into a Baptist chapel, at the cost of Sir Morton Peto.

Primrose Hill.—This spot now deserves to be ranked among the public parks of London. It is immediately north of the Regent’s Park. The Crown owned part of it, and obtained the rest by purchase from Eton College. The hill-top, the grassy slopes, and the gravelled paths are kept in excellent order; and a stranger should not lose an opportunity of viewing the ‘world of London’ from this spot in early morning. By permission of the authorities, a refreshment-room has been established for visitors; and a ‘Shakspeare Oak’ planted, April 23, 1864, which, however, “came to grief.”

Victoria Park.—This, the only park in the east or poorer division of London, consists of about 270 acres. Having been formed only a few years, the trees have not yet grown to a full size; but it is gradually becoming a pleasant spot, with flower-beds, lakes, walks, and shady avenues. This park is especially distinguished by possessing the most magnificent _Public Fountain_ yet constructed in the metropolis; it was provided by the munificence of Miss Burdett Coutts, at a cost of £5,000; the design, due to Mr. Darbyshire, is that of a Gothic structure, crowned by a cupola 60 feet high. Being near the densely populated districts of Bethnal Green and Mile End, the park is a great boon to the inhabitants. It lies between those districts and Hackney, and easy access to it can be obtained from two stations on the North London Railway—those of Hackney and Hackney Wick, or Victoria Park. The fountain just mentioned is near the Hackney entrance. Improved access is also opened from Whitechapel, from Mile End, and from Bow.

Battersea Park.—This park, of about 180 acres, on which £300,000 has been spent, lies between Vauxhall and Battersea, and is the only public park which comes down to the Thames. Nothing can exceed the change exhibited on this spot. Until recently it was a miserable swamp, called Battersea Fields; now it is a fine park, interesting to look at, and healthful to walk in. A beautiful suspension bridge, from the designs of Mr. Page, connects this park with Chelsea, on the other side of the river; and near it is another bridge for railway traffic.

Kennington Park.—A few years ago there was an open common at Kennington, dirty and neglected, and mostly held in favour by such classes as those which held the Chartist meeting in 1848. It is now a prettily laid-out public park—small, but well kept.

Finsbury Park, Stoke Newington, near Alexandra Park, was opened in August, 1869.

Southwark Park was opened about the same time. Though small, they are great boons to the working classes.

Zoological Gardens.—At the northern extremity of the Regent’s Park are the _Zoological Gardens_, the property of the Zoological Society, and established in 1826. These gardens are very extensive; and being removed from the dingy atmosphere, noise, and bustle of London, present an agreeable and country-like aspect. The grounds have been disposed in picturesque style—here a clump of shrubby trees and border of flowers, indigenous and exotic; there a pretty miniature lake; and at intervals a neat rustic cottage, with straw-thatched roof and honeysuckled porch. Much of the ground, also, is occupied as green meadows, either subdivided into small paddocks for deer and other quadrupeds, or dotted with movable trellis-houses, the abodes of different kinds of birds which require the refreshing exercise of walking on the green turf. Throughout the whole, neat gravel-walks wind their serpentine course, and conduct the visitor to the carnivora-house, reptile-house, bear-pit, monkey-house, aviaries, aquaria, and other departments of the establishment. The collection of animals is unquestionably the finest in England. The gardens are open every week-day, from 9 till sunset, for the admission of visitors, who pay 1s. each at the gate, or 6d. on Mondays. On Saturday afternoon, in summer, one of the Guards’ bands generally plays for an hour or two. On Sunday Fellows are admitted, and non-Fellows by a Fellow’s order.

[Picture: Zoological Gardens]

Botanical Gardens.—These are also situated in the Regent’s Park, occupying the chief portion of the space within the inner circle. They belong to the Botanical Society, and contain a very choice collection of trees, shrubs, flowers, and plants generally. Admission by strangers can only be obtained through the medium of the members, or occasionally on the payment of rather a high fee. On the days of the principal flower and plant shows, these gardens are especially distinguished by the display of aristocratic fashion and beauty.

[Picture: Horticultural Gardens]

Horticultural Gardens.—These beautiful new grounds are objects of attraction on many accounts—their merit in connection with garden architecture, the interest attending the flower-shows there held, and the special relation existing between the grounds and the Exhibitions at Brompton. You can enter them by the gates in Exhibition Road and Prince Albert Road, South Kensington. A few years ago, besides an office in London, the society had only facilities at Chiswick for holding the great flower-shows. The present arrangement is in all respects a superior one. Twenty acres of land were purchased or rented from the Commissioners of the Great Exhibition of 1851, between the Kensington and Brompton Roads; the subscribers of the purchase-money being admitted to membership on favourable conditions. The ground is laid out in three terraces, rising successively in elevation, and surrounded by Italian arcades open to the gardens. There are also cascades and waterworks. The highest terrace has a spacious conservatory, to form a winter-garden. Mr. Sidney Smith is the architect. The last Great Exhibition building was so planned as to form a vast southern background to the gardens; and the latter were spread out in all their beauty, as seen from certain points in the former. During the summer months the gardens are open on certain occasions to the public by paying, the days and terms being duly advertised in the newspapers and journals. Near these gardens is the towering _Royal Albert Hall of Science and Art_, which was formally opened by Queen Victoria, on the 29th of March, 1871. The fact of 8,000 people attending within one building to witness the opening of it, will shew its vast size. The sum of £200,000, up to that date, had been expended on it. The Hall, in some sense, has been erected in memory of the late Prince Consort, whose aspirations, during his honourable life here, were always towards whatever tended to the moral and intellectual culture of the people of this country. The management of the undertaking is entrusted to the energetic attention of the scientific men to whom we owe the South Kensington Museum.

OMNIBUSES; TRAMWAYS; CABS; RAILWAYS; STEAMERS.

Omnibuses.—Very few indeed of the regular old-fashioned coaches are now to be seen in London. Most of the places within twenty miles of the metropolis, on every side, are supplied with omnibuses instead. The first omnibus was started by Mr. Shillibeer, from Paddington to the Bank, July 4, 1829. From a return with which, by the courtesy of Colonel Henderson, C.B., Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police, Scotland Yard, we were kindly favoured, we gathered, that up to date of the communication in question,—viz., 28th June, 1870,—the number of such vehicles licensed in the Metropolitan district was 1,218. Every omnibus and hackney carriage within the Metropolitan district and the City of London, and the liberties thereof, has to take out a yearly license, in full force for one year, unless revoked or suspended; and all such licenses are to be granted by the Commissioners of Police, whose officers are constantly inspecting these public vehicles. Generally speaking, each _omnibus_ travels over the same route, and exactly the same number of times, day after day, with the exception of some few of the omnibuses which go longer journeys than the rest, and run not quite so often in winter as in summer. Hence the former class of omnibus comes to be associated with a particular route. It is known to the passengers by its colour, the name of its owner, the name given to the omnibus itself, or the places to and from which it runs, according to circumstances. The designations given to the omnibuses, whether meaning or unmeaning in themselves, are found to be very convenient, because they are generally written in large conspicuous characters. This being an important matter to strangers, we shall give a condensed list of some of the chief omnibus routes in London in the _Appendix_.

Large omnibuses, to work on _street tramways_, after having been tried within the last few years, having evoked angry discussion between opponents and defenders, and having been entirely withdrawn, have now been revived, from Brixton Church to Kennington Gate, on the Mile End and Whitechapel Roads, City Road, Kingsland, &c., &c., and are rapidly extending.

There are, to a male visitor, few better ways of getting a bird’s-eye view of London than by riding outside an omnibus from one end of London to the other, as, according to the omnibus taken, the route can be greatly varied.

Cabs.—These convenient vehicles have completely superseded the old pair-horse hackney-coaches in London; no vehicle of the kind being now ever seen. There are, according to the return above quoted, 6,793 of the modern single-horse hackney-coaches in the metropolis altogether—of two different kinds, ‘four-wheelers’ and ‘Hansoms,’ (named after the patentee.) The ‘four-wheelers’ are the more numerous; they have two seats and two doors; they carry four persons, and are entirely enclosed. The ‘Hansoms’ have two very large wheels, one seat to accommodate two persons, and are open in front; the driver is perched up behind, and drives his vehicle at a rapid rate.

Railways.—If omnibuses and cabs are more important than railways to strangers while _in_ London, railways are obviously the most important of the three when coming to or departing from London. The following are a few particulars concerning such railways as enter the metropolis.

_London and North-Western Railway_ has its terminus just behind Euston Square. The noble portico in front—by far the finest thing of the kind connected with railway architecture—has been rendered ridiculous by the alterations in the buildings behind it; for it is now at one corner of an enclosed court, instead of being in the centre of the frontage. A new hall leading to the booking-offices, finished in 1849, is worthy of the great company to which it belongs; the vast dimensions, the fine statue of George Stephenson, and the _bassi-rilievi_ by Thomas, render it an object deserving of a visit. This station is the London terminus of a system exceeding 1,446 miles.

The _Midland Railway_ has a magnificent terminus in the Euston Road, and a junction with the Metropolitan line. It has already more than 800 miles open.

_Great Northern Railway_ has its terminus at King’s Cross—a building more remarkable for novelty than for beauty. This company, a severe competitor to some of older date, has few stations near London; but the directness of the line of railway renders it important as an outlet to the north. A good hotel is contiguous to the terminus. The goods’ depôt has become famous for the vast quantity of coal brought to the metropolis.

_Great Western Railway_ has its terminus at Paddington, where a fine new station was built a few years ago. A style of arabesque polychrome decoration has been adopted, not seen at other metropolitan stations. Paddington is the head-quarters of the broad-gauge system, which extends to Weymouth in one direction, to Truro in a second, to Milford Haven in a third, and to Wolverhampton in a fourth; but some of the broad-gauge lines belong to other companies; while, on the other hand, this company has adopted the double-gauge on about 400 miles of its line. The terminus has a splendid new hotel adjoining it.

_West London Railway_ (now better known as the _West London Extension Railway_) can hardly be said to have an independent commercial existence. It was an old and unsuccessful affair, till taken up by four of the great companies, and enlarged in an important way. It now includes a railway bridge over the Thames at Battersea; it is connected with the London and North-Western, the Great Western, and the Metropolitan, on the north, and with the South-Western, the Brighton, and the Chatham and Dover, on the south. There are stations at Kensington, Chelsea, and Battersea.

_Hammersmith and City Junction Railway_ crosses the last-named line at Shepherds’ Bush, and joins the Great Western at Kensal New Town, a mile or two beyond Paddington.

_North and South-Western Junction Railway_ is, perhaps, valuable rather as a link between the greater railways, than as an independent line. It joins the North London at Camden Town, and the South-Western at Kew; and has stations at Kentish Town, Hampstead, Finchley New Road, Edgeware Road, Kensal Green, Acton, and Hammersmith. It establishes through trains with other companies; and although it has no actual London terminus of its own, it is a great convenience to the western margin of the metropolis, for the fares are low.

_South-Western Railway_ has its terminus in the Waterloo Road, which has been placed in connection with the London Bridge Station. The main lines of the company extend to Portsmouth in one direction, Dorchester in another, and Exeter in a third; while there is a multitude of branches—from Wimbledon to Croydon, from Wimbledon to Epsom and Leatherhead, from Wandsworth to Richmond and Windsor, from Barnes to Hounslow, from Staines to Reading, &c. There is no good hotel whatever near the Waterloo or Vauxhall Stations—a defect which seems to need a remedy.

_Victoria and Crystal Palace Railway_ is a concern in which so many companies have an interest, that it is not easy to define the ownership. The Victoria Station, within a quarter of a mile of the Queen’s Palace, Pimlico, is very large, but certainly not very handsome. The _Grosvenor Hotel_, attached to it, may rank among the finest in the metropolis. The Brighton, the Chatham and Dover, and the Great Western, are accommodated at this station, where both the broad and narrow gauges are laid down. The railway leads thence, to join the Brighton at Sydenham and Norwood, by a railway-bridge across the Thames; it has stations at Battersea, Wandsworth, Balham, Streatham, Norwood, and the Crystal Palace; and throws off branches to meet the lines of the other three companies above named.

_London_, _Brighton_, _and South Coast Railway_ has for its terminus a portion of the great London Bridge Station, contiguous to which a hotel has been constructed. It also has termini at Victoria and Kensington. The line leads nearly due south to the sea at Brighton, and then along the sea-coast, from Hastings in the east to Portsmouth in the west. There are also several branches to accommodate Surrey and Sussex. Taken altogether, this is the most remarkable _pleasure-line_ in England,—the traffic of this kind between London and Brighton being something marvellous.

_South-Eastern Railway_ has another portion of the large but incongruous London Bridge Station in its possession. The seaside termini of the line are at Margate, Ramsgate, Deal, Dover, and Hastings. The Greenwich and North Kent branches are important feeders; while there are others of less value. The company have spent a vast sum of money in extending their line to the north of the Thames—by forming a city station in Cannon Street, with a bridge over the river midway between London and Southwark Bridges; and a West-end Station at Charing Cross, with a bridge over the river at (what was till lately) Hungerford Market. There is also a connection with the South-Western terminus in the Waterloo Road. The company have been forced to pay a sum of £300,000 for St. Thomas’s Hospital, as the only means of insuring a convenient course for this extension—a striking instance of the stupendous scale on which railway operations are now conducted.

_London_, _Chatham_, _and Dover Railway_ is a very costly enterprise. It may be said to start from two junctions with the Metropolitan, has a large station near Ludgate Hill, (involving great destruction of property,) crosses the Thames a little eastward of Blackfriars Bridge, and proceeds through Surrey and Kent to Sydenham, Bromley, Crays, Sevenoaks, Chatham, Sheerness, Faversham, Herne Bay, Margate, Ramsgate, Canterbury, Dover Pier, &c. It also comprises a curvilinear line from Ludgate to Pimlico, with stations at Blackfriars, Newington, Walworth, Camberwell, Loughborough Road, Brixton, Clapham, Wandsworth Road, and Battersea; and a branch to Peckham, Nunhead, and the Crystal Palace.

_Blackwall Railway_, with which is associated the _Tilbury and Southend_, has its terminus in Fenchurch Street. The station is small and unattractive; but it accommodates a wonderful amount of passenger traffic. The original line extended only from London to Blackwall, with intermediate stations at Shadwell, Stepney, Limehouse, West India Docks, and Poplar. An important branch from Stepney to Bow establishes a connection with the Great Eastern Railway valuable to both companies. At Stepney also begins the Tilbury and Southend line, passing through Bromley, Barking, and numerous other places. Accommodation is provided, a little way from the Fenchurch Street Station, for a large amount of goods traffic. The line is now leased in perpetuity to the Great Eastern Company.

_Great Eastern Railway_ has its terminus in Bishopsgate Street, or rather Shoreditch, and a large depôt and station at Stratford. The Shoreditch station is large. This terminus, however, will shortly be removed to Broad Street, City. The lines of this company are numerous, and ramify in many directions towards the east, north-east, and north. Its terminal points (with those of the associated companies) at present are—Peterborough, Hunstanton, Wells, Yarmouth, Aldborough, and Harwich; with less distant termini at Ongar and North Woolwich.

_North London Railway_, consisting wholly of viaduct and cutting, has its terminus at Broad Street, Finsbury. All its stations are considered to be in London. It joins the London and North-Western near Primrose Hill, and the Blackwall at Stepney. It has intermediate stations at Camden Road, Caledonian Road, Islington, Cannonbury, Kingsland, Dalston, Hackney, Victoria Park, and Bow. Trains run every quarter of an hour, in both directions, at fares varying from 2d. to 4d.; and the number of passengers is immense.

_Metropolitan Railway_, from Finsbury to Paddington, is a very remarkable one, nearly all tunnel, and requiring the carriages to be constantly lighted with gas. It runs from Westminster Bridge, _viâ_ Pimlico, Brompton, Kensington, Notting Hill, and Bayswater, to Paddington, where it joins the Great Western. It then goes under Praed Street and the New Road to King’s Cross. There it joins the Great Northern, and thence goes on to Holborn Bridge, Smithfield Dead Meat Market, and Moorgate Street. Since the opening of the Metropolitan District Extension Railway, you can go at present (July, 1870) from the Mansion House, under the Northern Thames Embankment, before described, to Westminster Bridge, &c. There are stations near the Mansion House, the terminus; at Blackfriars, the Temple, Charing Cross, and Westminster.

_Steamers_ and _Steamboat Piers_ have been already referred to.

SHORT EXCURSIONS.

WE shall now direct the stranger’s attention to a few places of interest easily accessible from the metropolis—beginning with those situated westward, or up the river.

UP THE RIVER.

[Picture: Chelsea Hospital]

Chelsea.—Chelsea, once a village, is now a part of the metropolis, Pimlico and Belgravia having supplied the intervening link. During the last century a pleasant ramble across the fields was much in favour to the _Chelsea bunhouse_; but no one thinks of Chelsea now, except as part of London. Sloane Square and Street, and Hans Place, were named after Sir Hans Sloane, who lived in that neighbourhood. The chief place of interest at Chelsea is the _Hospital_ for retired invalid soldiers, an institution similar to the asylum for old seamen at Greenwich. The hospital, which is situated on a flat stretch of ground bordering the Thames, and was planned by Sir Christopher Wren, consists chiefly of one large edifice of red brick, several stories in height, forming a centre and two wings, or three sides of a square, with the open side towards the bank of the Thames. On the north, in which is the main entrance, the style of architecture is simple, being ornamented with only a plain portico. The inner part of the centre building is more decorated, there being here a piazza of good proportions, forming a sheltered walk for the veteran inmates. In the centre of the open square stands a statue, by Grinling Gibbons, of Charles II., in whose time the hospital took its rise. The only parts of the structure considered worthy to be shewn to strangers are the chapel and old dining-hall, both in the central building. The chapel is neat and plain in appearance; the rows of benches being furnished with prayer-books and hassocks, and the floor being paved with chequered marble. Above the communion-table is a painting of the Ascension, by Sebastian Ricci. The dining-hall is equally spacious, but is now disused as a refectory. In the hall and chapel are about 100 flags, taken by British troops in various battles. The usual number of in-pensioners is about 500, and of out-pensioners not fewer than 60,000 to 70,000, who reside in all parts of the United Kingdom. The former are provided with all necessaries, while the latter have each pensions varying according to their grade. The inmates wear an antique garb of red cloth, in which they may be seen loitering about the neighbourhood.

Near Sloane Square is situated a large building forming the _Royal Military Asylum_, familiarly called the _Duke of York’s School_, for the support and education of about 500 poor children, whose fathers were non-commissioned officers and privates in the army. Each regiment of the British army contributes annually one day’s pay, to aid in supporting the institution. Between Sloane Square and Chelsea Bridge is the fine new Barracks for the Foot Guards: the only handsome barrack structure in the metropolis.

[Picture: Star and Garter, Putney]

Chelsea to Chiswick.—_Battersea Park_, elsewhere described, is just opposite Chelsea. Beyond the park are _Battersea_ and _Wandsworth_, places containing very few objects of interest; and backed by _Clapham_ and _Wimbledon_, where many London merchants and tradesmen have their private residences. Beyond Wandsworth lie _Putney_, _Barnes_, and _Mortlake_, where the river makes a great bend towards Kew. Between Putney and Kew many _Regattas_, or boat-races, take place during the summer; especially the famous annual contest, from Putney to Mortlake, between the universities of Oxford and Cambridge: these are among the most pleasant of the up-river scenes. Omnibuses, steamboats, and the South-Western Railway, give abundant accommodation to the places here named. On the Middlesex side of the river, just beyond Chelsea, are _Cremorne Gardens_. Next, we get into a region of Market-Gardens, from which London is supplied with vast quantities of fruit and vegetables. _Walham Green_, _Parson’s Green_, and _Fulham_, lie in the immediate vicinity of these gardens. Strangers would find an hour or two pleasantly spent hereabouts. The bishops of London have their palace at Fulham, a picturesque old structure. After passing _Hammersmith_, where there is a pretty suspension bridge, we come to _Chiswick_, noted for its market-gardens; here is the house in which Hogarth died; and in the churchyard is his tomb, with an inscription by David Garrick. The Duke of Sutherland has a fine mansion at Chiswick; and near at hand are the old gardens of the Horticultural Society.

[Picture: Palm-House, Kew Gardens]

Kew Gardens.—_Kew_ is one of the pleasantest villages near London. When we have crossed the Thames from Brentford, by the bridge, we come upon the green, bounded on three sides by countryfied-looking houses, and on the fourth by the splendid gardens. The place is very easily reached—by omnibuses from the city to the Middlesex end of the bridge; by steamers every half-hour during summer; and by trains from the Waterloo and the North London Stations. It may be well to remember, however, that the so-called Kew Station is not actually at Kew. There is another, however, near the Gardens. By far the most interesting object at Kew is the famous _Botanic Gardens_. This is a very beautiful establishment, maintained at the public expense. It contains a rare collection of plants, obtained from all parts of the world, arranged and labelled in admirable order by Dr. Dalton Hooker. The flower-beds, hot-houses, and conservatories, are very numerous. The _great palm __house_, with its exotics, reaching to a height of 60 feet, and constructed at a cost of £30,000, forms a grand object. The new _temperate-house_ was constructed from the designs of Mr. Burton; 212 feet long, 137 wide, and 60 high, with two wings 112 feet by 62. Extensive new works have been added—including a lake having a communication with the Thames by a tunnel under the river-terrace, and a winter-garden, or enclosed conservatory, more than twice as large as the palm-house. Three detached buildings have been fitted up as a _Museum of Economic Botany_. The _Pleasure Grounds_ form a kind of Park contiguous to the Botanic Gardens; the gardens are 75 acres in extent, and the grounds 240 acres. This beautiful place is freely open to the public in the afternoon, on Sundays as well as week-days, after one o’clock.

[Picture: Richmond Bridge]

Richmond.—_Richmond_ is a village situated on the south bank of the Thames, at about 9 miles by land from Hyde Park Corner, and 16 miles by following the windings of the river. The most pleasant mode of conveyance to it used to be by one of the small steamboats from Hungerford Pier; for then an opportunity was afforded of seeing numerous beautiful and interesting spots on both banks of the river. The river is now, however, so shallow, that steamers can seldom reach this spot; and the trip is usually made by railway—from the Waterloo and Vauxhall Stations, and from all stations on the Blackwall, North London, and North and South Western lines. Omnibuses also run very frequently from the City and West End. Richmond stands on a slope overhanging the river. Opposite the village is a stone bridge crossing the Thames. South from the village, a pretty steep bank ascends to the green and bushy eminence called _Richmond Hill_; and from the terrace on its summit a view is obtained of the beautifully wooded country up the river, stretching away to Windsor. Among numerous villas, ornamental grounds, and other attractive objects, may be seen _Twickenham_, situated in the immediate vicinity, on the left bank of the Thames. In the house for which the present was erected as a substitute, lived Pope the poet, and his body is entombed in the church. [Picture: Pope’s Villa] Close by Twickenham is _Strawberry Mill_, once the seat of Horace Walpole, and now belonging to Lady Waldegrave. Moving onwards along the brow of the eminence, and passing the well known but expensive hotel called the _Star and Garter_, we enter the famous _Richmond Park_, which is eight miles in circumference, and enriched with magnificent trees. These extensive grounds were at one time connected with a royal palace, but there is now no such edifice—one or two hunting-lodges excepted; the park is, however, still a domain of the Crown, and freely open to the public. Foreigners are great admirers of this vicinity.

[Picture: Hampton Court]

Hampton Court.—_Hampton_ is about 13 miles from London by railway, and 24 by water. Trains run there very frequently, and at low fares, from Waterloo Station. The village is unimportant, but rendered pleasant by its large and open green. The chief object of attraction is _Hampton Court Palace_, situated within an enclosed garden near the north bank of the Thames. The palace was originally built by Cardinal Wolsey, and a portion of the structure which he reared is still extant in the northern quadrangle. Here was the scene of the humiliation and forfeiture of that favourite of Henry VIII., who at this place often held his court, and made it the scene of his Christmas festivities; there Edward VI. was born; here were held the masques, mummeries, and tournaments of Philip and Mary, and Elizabeth; here James I. held his court and famous meeting of controversialists; here Charles I. was immured as a state prisoner, and took leave of his children; here was celebrated the marriage of Cromwell’s daughter and Lord Falconberg; here Charles II. sojourned occasionally with his dissolute courtiers; here lived William and Mary after the revolution of 1688; and here, till the reign of George II., royal courts were sometimes held. The palace, in external appearance, is a lofty and magnificent structure of red brick, with stone cornices and dressings. The older part, including the famous Great Hall, the scene of the court masques and revels, is of the time of Henry VIII.; the eastern part, including the public rooms and the long garden front, was built by Wren for William III. Altogether, the edifice consists of three quadrangles. Entering by the grand staircase, which is decorated with paintings by Antonio Verrio, the visitor is conducted through a suite of lofty and large apartments, furnished in an old-fashioned style. The guard-room, which is first in order, contains, besides a series of English admirals by Kneller and Dahl, a variety of ancient warlike instruments. In the next apartment are portraits of various beauties of Charles II.’s court, painted by Sir Peter Lely, who has here depicted several lovely countenances, though a sensual character is common to them all. In the third room, or audience-chamber, is seen what is generally regarded as the finest painting in the palace—a portrait of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyck. The third room has also some good pictures; among others, a painting of the family of Louis Cornaro, a person celebrated for his extraordinary temperance. The picture, which is from an original by Titian, shews Cornaro and three generations of descendants, who appear in the act of adoration at a shrine. There are likewise portraits of Titian and his uncle, painted by Titian himself, and a spirited battle-piece by Giulio Romano. The fourth apartment, or Queen’s drawing-room, is enriched with an exceedingly fine painting of Charles I., a whole length, by Vandyck, esteemed the best likeness we have of that monarch. There is a well known and beautiful print from it by Sir Robert Strange, the prince of English line-engravers. In the next room, or state bedchamber, the visitor will see a portrait of Ann Hyde, daughter of Hyde, Earl of Clarendon, and mother of the successive queens, Mary and Anne. The Queen’s dressing-room and writing-closet, and Queen Mary’s state bedchamber, which follow, contain many fine pictures, by Holbein, Sir Peter Lely, Sebastian del Piombo, Leonardo da Vinci, Albert Durer, and others. A series known as the Beauties of the Court of William and Mary comprises portraits (by Kneller) more staid than those of the court of Charles II., and, it must be admitted, more tame and dull. After having traversed these stately and silent halls, one of which contains a valuable collection of historical portraits, the visitor is led out through the gallery lately containing the famous Cartoons of Raphael—which were transferred in 1865 to the South Kensington Museum. Another room contains a fine series of Cartoons by Andrea Mantegna. The whole of the pictures at Hampton Court are little less than 1000 in number.

The palace garden has a _Vinery_, where there is a grape vine ninety years old, which has sometimes yielded 3000 bunches of grapes in one year. The garden also possesses a _Maze_, a source of great delight to holiday juveniles. On the opposite side of the Hampton Wick Road from the palace gardens, is _Bushy Park_, a royal domain, embellished with an avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which present a splendid sight when in full bloom. The palace grounds are also exceedingly beautiful. Bushy Park is open for omnibuses and other vehicles, as well as for pedestrians. The palace is open free every day except Friday, from 10 till 4 or 6, according to the season; and the grounds or gardens till dusk. This is one of the very few public buildings in or near the metropolis open on Sundays.