Chapter XII: Textile Calculations (2)

This may be stated in a formula as follows:--

7000 × yards weighed
-------------------- = weight in grains.
840 × counts

=Staub’s Yarn Balance= is a small balance which is made to test the counts of very small quantities of yarn. A template is given with the balance, and the yarn is cut into lengths the size of the template, about two inches. One end of the balance is slightly heavier than the other, and the number of threads the size of the template which are required to draw the balance indicate the counts of the yarn. If twenty threads or about 40 inches balance the small weight, the count of the yarn is 20’s, and so on.

The principle is the same as if a 1 lb. weight were put on one end of a balance, in which case the number of hanks required to draw the weight would indicate the counts, because if 20 hanks = 1 lb. the counts are 20’s, and if 21 hanks = 1 lb. the counts are 21’s. The balance may be made to weigh any length, according to the weight on one end of the balance.

The form in which it is usually made makes it specially suitable for testing the counts in small patterns of a few inches.

The test is, of course, only approximate, as could only be expected from weighing so short a length.

If the foregoing examples are thoroughly understood, the following will not be found difficult.

If a warp has 2000 ends, and is 500 yards long, and weighs 60 lbs., what counts is it?

The ends multiplied by the length will give the total length of yarn in the warp, and this divided by 840 will give the hanks. If the hanks are divided by the weight, the result will be the counts. The result may be obtained at once as follows:--

2000 × 500
---------- = 19·84 counts.
840 × 60

If a beam has 2200 ends, the counts being 40’s, and the weight 50 lbs., find the length.

By multiplying 40 by 840 the yards in 1 lb. are obtained, and multiplying this by 50, the yards of yarn on the beam are arrived at. If this is divided by the ends in the warp, the result will be the length of warp thus:--

40 × 840 × 50
------------- = 763·6 yards.
2200

A simple method of mentally calculating the number of hanks in a piece is as follows:--

A warp 84 yards long will contain just one-tenth as many hanks as ends. Thus a warp of 2000 ends, 84 yards long, contains 200 hanks. This can be proved as follows:--

2000 × 84
--------- = 200 hanks.
840

The number of hanks in a warp 84 yards long can thus be seen at once, and it is a very simple matter to mentally calculate the difference for any other length.

The hanks of weft can also be calculated mentally in a similar manner.

If the piece is 84 yards, the counts multiplied by the width and divided by 10 will give the number of hanks required for 84 yards. Thus, find the hanks of weft in a piece 34 inches wide, 84 yards long, 60 picks per inch.

60 × 34
------- = 204 hanks.
10

The calculation is really simpler than it looks in the above form, as the dividing by 10 can be done by simply pointing off the last figure in the product of the picks and width. The formula may be proved correct by working out fully as follows:--

34 × 84 × 60
------------ = 204 hanks.
840

This system of mentally calculating the hanks is very useful, as it serves as a check upon a full calculation.

=The Firmness of Cloth.=--The number of ends and picks per inch which can advantageously be put into a fabric depends upon the number of intersections per inch in the pattern or weave, and on the counts or diameters of the yarns used. In a plain cloth woven with 32’s twist and 32’s weft, the number of threads per inch which could be put into the cloth without undue compression would be a little more than one-half the number which could be laid side by side touching each other. The reason for this is that the warp and weft threads interlace with each other every pick, and therefore, supposing that 156 threads of 32’s occupy one inch when laid side by side, one-half of these threads would have to be left out to allow of the intersection of the weft between every end.

In a “two and two” twill the weft intersects once for every two ends, or twice in the pattern; therefore there are four threads and two intersections in the pattern. It is obvious, therefore, that to keep the same firmness in the twill as in the plain cloth with the same yarns, a larger number of threads per inch both in warp and weft will be required.

To keep the same “firmness” the threads must be kept as close together in one cloth as in the other, and as in a plain cloth one-half the threads which occupy one inch are dropped out, so in a twill with two intersections for four ends there must be one-third of the ends occupying one inch left out. Thus with 32’s yarn, of which the diameter is 1/156 of an inch, there will require to be about 102 threads per inch in a “two and two” twill.

A perfectly balanced plain cloth may be defined as a cloth in which the warp and weft yarns are equal in diameter, and the spaces between the threads are equal to the diameter of the yarn.

If the diameters of yarns of various counts are known, it is an easy matter to find the number of threads per inch which will produce the desired firmness in any simple weave.

The diameters of yarns of cotton, woollen, worsted, and other threads are given by the late Mr. T. R. Ashenhurst in an excellent little work on “Textile Calculations and the Structure of Fabrics,” which has done much to promote this branch of the art of weaving.

Mr. Ashenhurst estimates the diameter of a 32’s cotton yarn at the 1/148th part of an inch; but this is probably somewhat under the mark, and in the following table I have taken 1/156th inch as the diameter of 32’s.

The variation in the thickness of any yarn, and the fact that they are not strictly cylindrical, renders measurements of little avail, but taken in conjunction with an examination of a range of woven cloths, the approximate or practical diameter can be estimated.

TABLE OF DIAMETERS OF COTTON YARNS.

+---------+---------+
| Counts. |Diameter.|
+---------+---------+
| 1 | 27½ |
| 2 | 39 |
| 3 | 47½ |
| 4 | 55½ |
| 5 | 62 |
| 6 | 67½ |
| 7 | 73 |
| 8 | 78 |
| 9 | 83½ |
| 10 | 87½ |
| 11 | 91 |
| 12 | 95 |
| 13 | 99 |
| 14 | 103 |
| 15 | 106½ |
| 16 | 110 |
| 17 | 113 |
| 18 | 117 |
| 19 | 120 |
| 20 | 123½ |
| 21 | 126 |
| 22 | 129½ |
| 23 | 132 |
| 24 | 135 |
| 25 | 138 |
| 26 | 140½ |
| 28 | 145½ |
| 30 | 151 |
| 32 | 156 |
| 34 | 160½ |
| 36 | 165 |
| 38 | 169 |
| 40 | 174½ |
| 42 | 178 |
| 44 | 183 |
| 46 | 187 |
| 48 | 191 |
| 50 | 195 |
| 52 | 198½ |
| 54 | 202½ |
| 56 | 206 |
| 58 | 210 |
| 60 | 213 |
| 62 | 216½ |
| 64 | 220½ |
| 66 | 224 |
| 68 | 227 |
| 70 | 230½ |
| 72 | 233½ |
| 74 | 237 |
| 76 | 240½ |
| 78 | 243 |
| 80 | 246 |
| 82 | 249 |
| 84 | 252 |
| 86 | 256½ |
| 88 | 258½ |
| 90 | 261 |
| 92 | 264 |
| 94 | 267 |
| 96 | 270 |
| 98 | 272½ |
| 100 | 275½ |
| 105 | 282 |
| 110 | 289 |
| 115 | 295½ |
| 120 | 302 |
| 125 | 308 |
| 130 | 314 |
| 135 | 320 |
| 140 | 326 |
| 145 | 331½ |
| 150 | 337 |
| 160 | 349 |
| 170 | 359 |
| 180 | 369 |
| 190 | 380 |
| 200 | 390 |
+---------+---------+

The preceding is a table of the diameters of cotton yarns from 1’s counts to 200’s. The number given as the diameter is the number of threads which occupy the space of one inch when laid as close together as possible without compression.

A perfectly balanced plain cloth will require one-half this number of threads per inch, plus, perhaps, 5 per cent. for the threads being forced somewhat out of the same plane in weaving.

=Relative Diameters of Yarns.=--The “counts” of yarns indicate the number of hanks in 1 lb., and therefore a given length of 30’s is twice as heavy as the same length of 60’s; but the diameter of the 30’s will not be twice that of the 60’s, as the yarns are cylindrical, and the diameters will vary as the square roots of the areas, which in this case are as 1: 2.

If one thread is four times as heavy as another, and if it is of the same _density_--which in these calculations is assumed, although it is not strictly correct--the diameters of the two threads will be as 2: 1. For example, looking at the tables, the diameter of a 60’s is seen to be the 1/213 of an inch, whilst the diameter of a thread four times the weight, viz. 15’s, is seen to be 1/106½ of an inch, or exactly twice the diameter of the 60’s thread.

The diameter of one yarn being known, the diameter of any other may be obtained by the following rule:--

RULE.--As the square root of one count is to the square root of another count, so is the diameter of one to the diameter of the other.

_Example._--If the diameter of a 16’s yarn is the 1/110th part of
an inch, find the diameter of a 36’s.

√(16) : √(36) ∷ 110
4 : 6 ∷ 110 : 165 _Ans._

In this form the calculation necessitates the extraction of two square roots, and with most numbers would require the use of two fractions in the calculation. By squaring all the three terms the calculation is much simpler, as in the following example:--

_Example._--If the diameter of a 32’s is the 1/156 of an inch, what
is the diameter of a 50’s?

32’s : 50’s ∷ 156^2 : _x_^2
or 32 : 50 ∷ 24336 : _x_^2
50
-------
32)1216800(38025
96
---
256
256
------
80
64
----
160
160
and √38025 = 195 _Ans._

As the diameters of yarns vary as the square root of their counts, it follows that the diameters will always bear a certain relation to the yards in 1 lb. If this relation is once obtained, it becomes easy to calculate the diameter of any yarn on this principle.

Taking the diameter of a 32’s yarn from the table, viz. 156, it will be found that this is equal to the square root of the yards in 1 lb., less 5 per cent.

_Example._ 840
32
----
1680
2520
-----
26880 yds. in 1 lb. of 32’s.

√26880 = 164
8 = 5 per cent.
---
156 = diameter of 32’s.

The number of ends and picks per inch required to make plain cloths of equal firmness from different counts may be at once seen from the table of diameters, as one-half the number given as the diameter is required.

Thus if a plain cloth with 78 threads per inch of 32’s is taken as the standard, and it is required to make a cloth of equal firmness, with 60’s yarns, the number of threads per inch required would be 106½. In 20’s yarns about 62 threads would be required. In 16’s yarns 55 threads per inch, and so on.

In twills, or other regular weaves, the following rule will give the number of threads per inch required of any count:--

RULE.--As the sum of the ends and intersections in the pattern is to the ends, so is the diameter to the number of threads required.

_Example 1._--How many threads per inch are required to make a
perfectly balanced “2 and 1” twill cloth, with 24 yarns, warp and
weft?

There are 3 ends and 2 intersections in the pattern; therefore

3 ends + 2 intersections = 5;
and as 5 : 3 ends ∷ 135 diameter : _x_
3
---
5)405
----
81 threads per inch required.

_Example 2._--How many threads per inch are required to make a
perfectly balanced “3 up, 2 down, 2 up, 2 down twill” with 44’s
yarns?

In this pattern there are 9 ends and 4 intersections; therefore

as 9 + 4 : 9 ∷ 183 diameter of 44’s : _x_
or, as 13 : 9 ∷ 183
9
----
13)1647(126 threads per inch required
13
---
34
26
---
87
78
--
9

One of the most useful purposes to which a knowledge of this principle can be put is in changing the weave of a fabric, to find the threads per inch of a given count of yarn required to keep the same firmness as in a sample cloth.

It must be remembered that the word “firmness” is here used as implying that the space between the threads bears the same relation to the diameters of the threads in both cases, or, if the given cloth is perfect, the proposed one will also be perfect.

Suppose it is desired to make a “two and two” twill of the same “firmness” as a plain cloth made with 103 threads per inch.

The yarns being the same, the number of threads per inch required will be as the ends plus intersections in a given number of ends in both patterns.

In the above question the given cloth is plain, with 103 threads per inch, and the proposed cloth is a “two and two” twill. Taking the same number of threads in each case, we get--

Ends + Intersections in Ends + Intersections
proposed twill cloth. in given plain cloth.
4 + 2 : 4 + 4 ∷ 103 : _x_
or 6 : 8 ∷ 103
8
----
6)824
----
Ends required in twill cloth = 137⅓

It must not be forgotten that it is necessary to take an equal number of ends of each pattern in this class of calculation. In more complex patterns it is often advisable to take the number of ends which is the L.C.M. of the ends in the two patterns in order to get a complete number of intersections in each case.

_Another Example._--If a “two and two” twill cloth is made with 137
threads per inch, and it is proposed to make a cloth with the same
counts of yarns in a “5 up, 2 down, 1 up, 2 down” twill, how many
threads per inch are required to keep the same firmness?

In 40 ends of the proposed cloth there are 16 intersections, and in
40 ends of the sample cloth there are 20 intersections.

Then as 40 + 16 : 40 + 20 ∷ 137
or 56 : 60 ∷ 137
60
----
56)8220(146.8 threads. _Ans._
56
262
224
----
380
336
----
440

If it is required to make a cloth with the same number of threads as a sample cloth, and to change the pattern and keep the same firmness, it is necessary to change the counts on the following principle:--

RULE.--As the sum of the ends and intersections in the sample cloth is to the sum of the ends and intersections in the proposed cloth, so is the square root of the counts in the sample to the square root of the counts in the proposed cloth.

_Example._--If a plain cloth has been made with 36’s yarns, and
it is proposed to make a “two and two” twill with the same number
of threads per inch, find the counts required to keep the same
“firmness.”

Ends + Inters. Ends + Inters.
in sample cloth. in proposed cloth.
or 4 + 4 : 4 + 2 ∷ √36 : √x
8 : 6 ∷ 6 :
6
--
8)36

4½
And 4½^2 = 20·25 counts required.

This may be proved correct by referring to the table of diameters on page 335, where it will be seen that a plain cloth with 82½ threads per inch of 36’s is “perfect,” and a “two and two” twill with 82½ threads of 20¼’s counts is equally perfect.

=To change the Counts=, the pattern and threads per inch remaining the same.

If a sample cloth has 78 threads per inch of 32’s yarn, and it is proposed to make a cloth of the same weave with 55 threads per inch, what counts of yarn are required to keep the same “firmness”?

This is simple enough. The diameters of yarns vary as the square root of their counts, and therefore as the threads in one cloth are to the threads in another, so will the square root of the counts in one be to the square root of the counts in the other.

Threads in Threads in proposed Counts in
sample. cloth. sample.

78 : 55 ∷ √32 : √x
or as 78^2 : 55^2 ∷ 32
6084 : 3025 ∷ 32
32
----
6050
9075
-----
6084 )96800(15·91, or 16’s nearly = counts
6084 required
-----
35960

On referring to the table of diameters (p. 335), it will be found that a plain cloth with 78 threads of 32’s is “perfect,” and that a plain cloth with 55 threads of 16’s is also perfect. Therefore the above calculation is correct.

=To change the Threads per Inch=, the counts and pattern remaining the same.

If a sample has 78 threads per inch of 32’s, and it is proposed to weave a cloth of the same pattern, but with 60’s yarns, find the number of threads per inch required to keep the same firmness.

This is simply a continuation of the previous statement.

If the two counts are known, the number of threads will vary as the square roots of the counts; thus--

Counts in Counts in Threads in
sample. proposed cloth. sample.
√32 : √60 ∷ 78 : _x_
or as 32 : 60 ∷ 78^2 : _x_^2
6084
60
-------
32)365040
11407½
√11407 = 106.8 threads required.

The above may be proved correct by referring to the table of diameters. A plain cloth with 78 threads per inch of 32’s is “perfect,” and so is a plain cloth with 106½ threads per inch of 60’s.

The same principle must be employed if the warp and weft are of different counts, or if the threads per inch are not equal in warp and weft.

_Example._--A sample cloth is made with 78 ends per inch of 32’s
and 91 picks per inch of 44’s. How many picks will be required to
keep the same firmness, if the weft only is changed to 60’s?

Counts in Counts in
sample. proposed cloth.
√44 : √60 ∷ 91 : _x_
or as 44 : 60 ∷ 91^2 : _x_^2
8281
60
------
44)496860
------
11292 = _x_^2
------
and √11292 = 106½ ∴ picks per inch required = 106½

One advantage gained by a knowledge of the principle of cloth “balance” is that the number of picks per inch which a given pattern or weave will take can easily be obtained by calculation. This is of great advantage to designers for Jacquard weaving, as it often occurs that a design is made and the cards cut for a pattern which will not admit of the required number of picks of the given counts being put in the cloth, which a slight alteration in the ground weave would have rendered possible.

=To alter the Weight.=--If the weight of a cloth is required to be altered, and the same firmness kept, the threads per inch and counts can be found on the same principle.

If a cloth is made heavier it must be done by using _coarser_ yarns and _fewer_ threads; it cannot be done by using more threads, and preserve the same “firmness” or “perfection.”

Suppose a sample piece of cloth weighing 10 lbs. is made with 93 threads of 45’s, and it is proposed to make a piece of the same length and width, but weighing 15 lbs. To find the threads per inch and counts of yarn to keep the same firmness.

The weights of two cloths will vary as the square roots of the counts if they are of the same perfection.

Therefore--

Weight of Weight
proposed cloth. of sample.
As 15 lbs. : 10 lbs. ∷ √45 : √(_x_) counts
or 15^2 : 10^2 ∷ 45 to _x_
225 : 100 ∷ 45
100
----
225)4500(20’s counts required
450
----
0

To find the threads per inch required of the above counts--

Weight of Weight of
proposed cloth. sample.
15 : 10 ∷ 93
10
----
15)930(62 threads required.
90
----
30
30
----

Then to make a piece of the same perfection or firmness as the sample piece, and to alter the weight from 10 lbs. to 15 lbs., the counts must be changed from 45’s to 20’s, and the threads per inch from 93 to 62.

To prove this is correct take a piece 20 inches wide, 102 yards long, 93 threads per inch both in warp and weft of 45’s yarns.

The weight of this sample piece will be--

20 × 102 × 93
------------- = 5 lbs. of twist;
840 × 45

and as there is the same weight of weft, the total weight of the piece will be 10 lbs.

Now calculate the weight of a piece of the same length and width with 62 threads per inch of 20’s yarns:--

20 × 102 × 62
------------- = 7½ lbs. of twist;
840 × 20

and with the same quantity of weft, the total weight of the piece will be 15 lbs.

This proves the calculation to be correct so far as altering the weight goes.

To see if both cloths are of the same firmness, the table of diameters may be referred to. It will there be seen that a plain cloth with 93 threads per inch of 45’s yarn is “perfect,” and also that the altered cloth with 62 threads of 20’s is equally perfect.

It thus proves the principle of the calculation to be correct.

A lighter cloth may be made, and the same firmness kept. The formula is the same in both cases. If a cloth is made lighter it must be done by using finer counts and more threads. It cannot be done by using fewer threads, as the firmness could not be kept and the required weight obtained.

In altering the weights of cloths some allowance would have to be made for the difference in milling-up with different counts of yarns and numbers of threads. If a cloth is made heavier, thicker yarns would be used, and the warp length to give a certain length of piece would be different in the sample to the altered cloth. But this is a comparatively small matter, which can be adjusted with a slight alteration in the basis of the structure.

INDEX

Antiseptics, 32

Automatic looms, 198

Backed cloths, with weft, 255;
with warp, 257

Barley-corn patterns, 235

Beaming, press, 47

---- tension, 47

Beating up the weft, 72, 85

----, character of motion in, 72, 73

----, distance moved by slay whilst the crank moves through given
angle in, 74

----, eccentricity of slay’s movement in, 72;
cause of, 74

----, effect of altering position of crank-shaft in, 83;
of reversing direction of crank in, 84

----, force of slay in, 78, 82

----, position of crank in, 72

Becks, size mixing, 30

Brake, 95

Calculation for two or more fold yarns, 308

---- of contraction for different weaves and counts, 326

---- of cost of a piece, 325

---- of counts of yarn from weighing given length, 329

Calculation of diameter of yarn, 336

Calculation of number of threads of given counts required to make a
firm cloth in any weave, 341

---- of quantity of warp and weft in a piece, 311-313

---- of reeds and setts, 310

---- of weaving wage, 324

---- of weight of a given length of any counts, 330

---- to make a cloth of equal firmness to given cloth when changing
weave, 338

---- to preserve firmness and alter weight, 343

---- to preserve firmness when changing threads per inch, 341

---- to preserve same firmness when changing counts, 341

Card-cutting machine, 190

---- repeater, 191

Casting out, 285

Checks produced by re-arranging twills, 241

Circular-box motion, 115

Clearer guide, 8

Clipped or sheared cloths, 254

Coiling motions. _See_ Taking-up

Combined twills, 226

Cop winding machine, 6

Cording plan for hand loom, 50

Cords, 245

Corkscrew twills, 257

Counts of cotton yarns, 307

Counts of two or more unequal threads twisted together, 308;
and weight of each required in given weight of resulting
thread, 309

Cover on cloth, 86, 87

Crapes, 248

Crimp cloth, 249

Damask or twilling Jacquards, 168-172

Design, transferring from sketch to point paper, 281

Detached figures, spots, arrangement of, 278-281

Development of pattern, 282-285

Diagonals, fancy, produced by combining unequal twills, 240

---- figured, 289

Diameters of cotton yarns, 335

Diapers, 233

Dice checks, 234

Direction of twist in yarns, effect of, 304

Dobbies, timing of movements in, 129

---- undermotions for, 130, 131

Dobby, the Blackburn, 127;
knife motion for, 127;
character of shed in, 129

----, the Keighley double-lift, 123;
method of pegging for, 126;
double jacks in, 126;
character of shed in, 125;
made positive, 129
Double cloths, 259

---- bound by passing back pick over face end, 261

---- bound by passing back end over face pick, 262

---- plain clothes, figuring, 263;
bound together, 266

---- shed Jacquard, 157

---- twill cloth figuring, 300

---- warp face, 257

Double weft face, 255

Double-beat slay, 135

Doup heald, 173

Draft, arranging on point paper, 227

---- the V, 230; patterns produced by, 230-233

Drawing-in, 3

Drills, 224

Drop-box motion, Diggle’s, 107

---- in pick-and-pick loom, 116;
connected to Jacquard, 120

---- Whitesmith’s, 112

---- Wright Shaw’s, 109

Drum winding machine, 13, 14

Edleston harness, 166

---- ---- designing for, 294

Extra warp, figuring with, 250;
reeding of, 252

---- ---- and extra weft combined, 255

---- weft, figuring with, 252

---- figure on mock leno ground, 254

Fancy effects produced by warp and weft pulling each other out of
straight line, 249

Fast reeds, 91

Figured design, 278

---- leno designing, 295

Firmness of cloth, 333

Gauze, plan of, 173

“Gloy,” 33

Grey warps, preparation of, 2

Hand-loom, 48

Hattersley weft-replenishing device, 214

Heck of warping mill, 22

Honeycomb designs, 242

Huck patterns, 250

Jacquard card cutting, 142, 190

---- damask or twilling, 168-172

---- damask, Tschorner and Wein, 172

---- double-shed, 157

---- for cross-border, 155

---- for leno weaving, 181

---- harness, bordered pattern, Norwich tie, 151;
London tie, 153

---- centre pattern or point tie, 154

---- Edleston’s, 166;
designing for,167, 294

---- for all-over pattern, 139

---- London tie, 150

---- Norwich tie, 144, 150

---- machine, origin of, 137

---- sizes of, 150

---- difference in character of shed between single and
double-lift, 137, 144-148

---- double-lift, single-cylinder, 144;
principle of, 145

---- double-lift, double-cylinder, 146;
advantages of, 144

---- single-lift, 138

---- open-shed, 158

---- pressure harness, 161-166

---- split harness, 160

Jeans, jeanettes, 220

Keighley dobby, 123

Kenyon’s undermotion for dobbies, 131

Lace and leno stripes, 269

Lags, pegging of, 126

Lappet loom, 193

---- wheel, construction of, 195

Lappets, 192

Leno checks, 268

---- crossovers, 175

Leno effects, 266

---- full cross, 181

---- Jacquards, designing for, 185

---- double-lift, 186

----, imitation of, 186

---- net or lace, 176

---- selvedge, 132

---- weaving in dobbies, 174-180;
use of slackener in, 174;
arrangement of staves and pegging plan, 175-178;
shaking motion for double-lift dobbies, 178;
arrangement of slackeners for two doups, 180

Letting-off, 106

Linen yarns, counts of, 307

List of prices for weaving, New Uniform, 314-322;
Chorley, 322

Loose reeds, 92

Marking mechanism in slashing frame, 35

Marseilles quilts, 298

Mildew, 32

Mitcheline, 299

Mock lenos, 243

Mono-coloured warps, preparation of, 3

Multi-coloured warps, preparation of, 5

Net lenos, 267

Northrop weft-replenishing device, 210

Oscillating tappets, 61

Padded cloths, 258

Patterns produced by combining alternate picks of twills, 240

---- by combining equal twills, 226;
unequal twills, 240

---- by drafting, 227

Patterns by fancy drafts, 238

---- by re-arrangement of simple twills, 236;
and of combined twills, 237

Pegging plan making, 228

Pick-and-pick loom, 116

Pick, force of, 69

Picking, over pick, 68, 69

---- under pick, 71

Pile fabrics, warp, 189

---- weft, 270-277

Piqués, 258

Pirn winding machine, 15

---- ---- ---- disc, 17

Plain cloth, 218

---- draft for weaving, 219

---- number of threads possible in, 218

---- ornamentation of, 218

Plushes, 189, 275

Point draft, 230

Point paper, selection of, for different proportions of warp and
weft, 290

---- use of, 219

Power-loom, tappet shedding motions in, 51-68

Preparatory processes, 1

Presser roller, expanding, 27

Pressure harness, designing for, 292

---- harnesses, 161-166

Primary movements in weaving, 48

---- timing of, 85-87

Protector, loose reed, 91

---- stop rod, 92

Reeds and setts, 310

Ribs and cords, 245

Roller top motion for plain cloth, 62;
3 staves, 64;
4 staves, 64;
5 staves, 65;
7 staves, 66

Sack weaving, 259

Satin draft, 229

---- weaves, 222

Satin, principle of construction of, 224

Scotch dressing, 42

Section blocks, expanding, 27

---- tappets, Woodcroft’s, 59, 60

Sectional warping, 23

Selvedge motion in sateen loom, 134, 135

Set figures, arrangement of, 278-281

Shading, 283

Shedding motions, power-loom, 51-68

Silk yarns, thrown or net, numbering of, 307

Sines and cosines, table of, 81

Singleton’s stop-motion, 19

Size mixing, 28

---- ---- for light sizing, 30

---- ---- for fine counts, 31

---- ---- for medium sizing, 31

---- ---- for heavy sizing, 32

Sizes of patterns woven in Jacquards, 285

Sizing, 28

---- ball, 43

---- materials, 28

----, slashing frame, 33;
slow motion in, 37

---- frame, slasher, marking motion in, 35, 36

---- ---- frictional winding motion in, 39

---- machines, hot air drying in, 38

---- ----, automatic supply of size to, 40

Slubbings, 8

Solid coloured borders in dhooties, 303

Split harness, designing for, 292

Splits, motion for, 132

---- Shorrock and Taylor’s motion for, 133

Spreading the warp, 85

Spun silk yarns, counts of, 307

Stitching-thread used to bind extra warp and extra weft, 252, 253

Stocks and bowls, 67

Stop motion, weft fork, 93

---- ----, in beam-warper, 19

---- rod, 92

Striped designs, 288;
calculation of reed for, 288

Tabby weave, 218

Taking-up motion, negative, 101;
screw and worm wheel, 103

---- positive, 95;
Pickles’, 99;
new system, 104

Tappets, calculation for lift of, 52

----, construction of, 53

----, effect of treadle-bowl on, 57

---- for plain cloth, 50, 51, 53

---- for twills, 56, 58

---- oscillating, 61

---- positive, 59

----, speed of, 87-91

---- Woodcroft’s, 59

Terry cloth, 187

---- loom, 187

Testing yarns, 329

Three-ply, four-ply cloths, 263

Toiletings, 297

Traverse motions, heart cam, 9, 10;
mangle wheel, 11 cloths, 258

Trial section, 25

Twaddell’s hydrometer, 30

Twills, 219

---- combined, 226

Twisting-in, 3

Twofold yarns, cotton, worsted, silk, 308

Undermotions, 130, 131

Undermotion, Kenyon’s, 131

V-creel, 18, 23

V-reed, 24

Velvet, common, 270

---- cords, 276

---- E1, 273

---- fast pile, 273

----, figured, 301

---- twill back, 274

Velvets, velveteens, 270, 277;
definition of, 272

Warp line, 85

Warping, beam, 18

Warping mill, 21

----, sectional, 23

Weaving wage calculations, 324

Weft, preparation of, 6

----, wet, 6

---- fork, 93

---- pile fabrics, 270

Weft-replenishing devices, automatic, 198-217

---- ----, patents for, 209

---- ----, Northrop, 210

---- ----, Hattersley, 214

Winding coloured yarn, 14

---- drum, 14

---- from cops to warpers’ bobbins, 6

---- from ring spools to warpers’ bobbins, 6

---- from throstle to warpers’ bobbins, 6

Woodcroft’s section tappets, 59, 60

Worsted yarns, 307

Wrapping yarn, 330

Yarn balance, Staub’s, 331

---- twist of, 305

Yorkshire dressing, 5, 47

THE END

PRINTED BY
WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED
LONDON AND BECCLES

End of Project Gutenberg's Cotton Weaving and Designing, by John T. Taylor