Chapter I: Preface

And now, how can I suitably apologize for having inflicted another book on the reading public? I would not attempt it but that it is the custom among authors. And, come to think of it, I guess I won't attempt it anyway. I will merely say, by way of excuse, that my former literary efforts, especially my "Rustlings in the Rockies," have brought me in sundry dollars, in good and lawful money, which I have found very useful things to have about the house. If this volume shall meet with an equally kind reception at the hands of book buyers, I shall feel that, after all, I am not to blame for having written it.

THE AUTHOR.

CHICAGO, MARCH, 1889.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

The Benefits, Mental and Physical, of Mountain Climbing--A
Never-failing Means of Obtaining Sound Sleep and a Good
Appetite--The Work to be in Proportion to the Strength of the
Climber--People Who Would Like to See, but are Too Lazy to
Climb--How the Photograph Camera May Enhance the Pleasures and
Benefits of Mountain Climbing--Valuable Souvenirs of Each
Ascent--How "These Things are Done in Europe"--An Effective Cure
for Egotism.

CHAPTER II.

The Cascade Mountains Compared with the Rockies--Characteristics
and Landmarks of the Former--The Proper Season for Cruising in
the Cascades--Grand Scenery of the Columbia--Viewing Mount
Tacoma from the City of Tacoma--Men Who Have Ascended this
Mysterious Peak--Indian Legends Concerning the Mountain--Evil
Spirits, Who Dwell in Yawning Caverns--The View from the
Mountain--Crater Lake and the Glaciers--Nine Water-falls in
Sight from One Point.

CHAPTER III.

The City of Seattle--A Booming Western Town--Lumbering and Salmon
Canning--Extensive Hop Ranches--Rich Coal and Iron Mines--Timber
Resources of Puget Sound--Giant Firs and Cedars--A Hollow Tree
for a House--Big Timber Shipped to England--A Million Feet of
Lumber from an Acre of Land--Novel Method of Logging--No Snow in
Theirs--A World's Supply of Timber for a Thousand Years.

CHAPTER IV.

Length, Breadth, and Depth of Puget Sound--Natural Resources of
the Surrounding Country--Flora and Fauna of the Region--Great
Variety of Game Birds and Animals--Large Variety of Game and
Food Fishes--A Paradise for Sportsman or Naturalist--A Sail
Through the Sound--Grand Mountains in Every Direction--The Home
of the Elk, Bear, Deer, and Salmon--Sea Gulls as Fellow
Passengers--Photographed on the Wing--Wild Cattle on Whidby
Island--Deception Pass; its Fierce Current and Wierd
Surroundings--Victoria, B. C.--A Quaint Old, English-looking
Town.

CHAPTER V.

Through English Bay--Water Fowls that Seem Never to Have Been
Hunted--Rifle Practice that was Soon Interrupted--Peculiarities
of Burrard Inlet--Vancouver and Port Moody--A Stage Ride to
Westminster--A Stranger in a Strange Land--Hunting for a
Guide--"Douglass Bill" Found and Employed--An Indian Funeral
Delays the Expedition.

CHAPTER VI.

The Voyage up the Frazier--Delicious Peaches Growing in Sight of
Glaciers--The Detective Camera Again to the Front--Good Views
from the Moving Steamer--A Night in an Indian Hut--The Sleeping
Bag a Refuge from Vermin--The Indian as a Stamping Ground for
Insects--He Heeds Not Their Ravages.

CHAPTER VII.

A Breakfast with the Bachelor--Up Harrison River in a Canoe--Dead
Salmon Everywhere--Their Stench Nauseating--The Water Poisoned
with Carrion--A Good Goose Spoiled with an Express
Bullet--Lively Salmon on the Falls--Strange Instinct of this
Noble Fish--Life Sacrificed in the Effort to Reach its Spawning
Grounds--Ranchmen Fishing with Pitchforks, and Indians with
Sharp Sticks--Salmon Fed to Hogs, and Used as Fertilizers; the
Prey of Bears, Cougars, Wild Cats, Lynxes, Minks, Martins,
Hawks, and Eagles.

CHAPTER VIII.

The River Above the Rapids--A Lake Within Basaltic Walls--Many
Beautiful Waterfalls--Mount Douglas and its Glaciers--A Trading
Post of the Hudson Bay Fur Company--The Hot Springs; an Ancient
Indian Sanitarium--Anxiously Waiting for "Douglass Bill"--Novel
Method of Photographing Big Trees.

CHAPTER IX.

An Early Morning Climb--A Thousand Feet Above the Lake--Fresh
Deer Signs in Sight of the Hotel--Three Indians Bring in Three
Deer--"Douglass Bill" Proves as Big a Liar as Other
Indians--Heading off a Flock of Canvas Backs--A Goodly Bag of
these Toothsome Birds--A Siwash Hut--A Revolting Picture of
Dirt, Filth, Nakedness, and Decayed Fish--Another Guide
Employed--Ready on Short Notice--Off for the Mountain.

CHAPTER X.

Characteristics of the Flathead Indians--Canoeists and Packers by
Birth and Education--A Skillful Canoe Builder--Freighting
Canoes--Fishing Canoes--Traveling Canoes--Two Cords of Wood for
a Cargo, and Four Tons of Merchandise for Another--Dress of the
Coast Indians.

CHAPTER XI.

Climbing the Mountain in a Rainstorm-Pean's Dirty Blankets--His
Careful Treatment of His Old Musket--A Novel Charge for Big
Game--The Chatter of the Pine Squirrel--A Shot Through the
Brush--Venison for Supper--A Lame Conversation: English on the
One Side, Chinook on the Other--The Winchester Express Staggers
the Natives--Peculiarities of the Columbia Black Tail Deer.

CHAPTER XII.

The Chinook Jargon; an Odd Conglomeration of Words; the Court
Language of the Northwest; a Specimen Conversation--A Camp on
the Mountain Side--How the Indian Tried to Sleep Warm--The
Importance of a Good Bed when Camping--Pean is taken Ill--His
Fall Down a Mountain--Unable to go Further, We Turn Back--Bitter
Disappointment

CHAPTER XIII.

The Return to the Village--Two New Guides Employed--Off for the
Mountains Once More--The Tramp up Ski-ik-kul Creek Through
Jungles, Gulches, and Canyons--And Still it Rains--Ravages of
Forest Fires--A Bed of Mountain Feathers--Description of a
Sleeping Bag; an Indispensable Luxury in Camp Life; an Indian
Opinion of It

CHAPTER XIV.

Meditations by a Camp Fire--Suspicions as to the Honesty of My
Guides; at Their Mercy in Case of Stealthy Attack--A Frightful
Fall--Broken Bones and Intense Suffering--A Painful and Tedious
Journey Home--A Painful Surgical Operation--A Happy Denouement

CHAPTER XV.

The Beauties of Ski-ik-kul Creek; a Raging Mountain Torrent;
Rapids and Waterfalls Everywhere; Picturesque Tributaries--Above
the Tree Tops--The Pleasure of Quenching Thirst--A Novel
Spear--A Fifteen-Pound Salmon for Supper--The Indians' Midnight
Lunch--A Grand Camp Fire--At Peace with All Men

CHAPTER XVI.

Seymour Advises a Late Start for Goat Hunting; but His Council is
Disregarded--We Start at Sunrise--A Queer Craft--Navigating
Ski-ik-kul Lake--A "Straight-up" Shot at a Goat--Both Horns
Broken Off in the Fall--More Rain and Less Fun--A Doe and
Kid--Successful Trout Fishing--Peculiarities of the Skowlitz
Tongue; Grunts, Groans and Whistles--John has
Traveled--Seymour's Pretended Ignorance of English

CHAPTER XVII.

En Route to the Village Again--A Water-Soaked Country--"Oh, What
a Fall was There, My Countrymen!"--Walking on Slippery
Logs--More Rain--Wet Indians--"Semo He Spile de Grouse"--A
Frugal Breakfast--High Living at Home--A Bear He did a Fishing
Go; but He was Caught Instead of the Fish, and His Skin is
Bartered to the Unwashed Siwashes.

CHAPTER XVIII.

John and His Family "At Home"--An Interesting Picture of Domestic
Economy--Rifle Practice on Gulls and Grebes--Puzzled
Natives--"Phwat Kind of Burds is Them?"--A day on the
Columbia--The Pallisades from a Steamer--Photographing Bad Lands
from a Moving Train.

CHAPTER XIX.

Deer Hunting at Spokane Falls--Ruin Wrought by an Overloaded
Shotgun: A Tattered Vest and a Wrecked Watch--Billy's Bear
Story--The Poorest Hunter Makes the Biggest Score--A Claw in
Evidence--A Disgusted Party.

CHAPTER XX.

A Fusilade on the Mule Deer--Two Does as the Result--A Good Shot
Spoiled--View from the Top of Blue Grouse Mountain--A Grand
Panorama; Lakes, Mountains, Prairies and Forests--Johnston's
Story--Rounding Up Wild Hogs--A Trick on the Dutchman--A Bucking
Mule and a Balky Cayuse--Falls of the Spokane River.

CHAPTER XXI.

Hunting the Grizzly Bear--Habitat and Characteristics--A Camp
Kettle as a Weapon of Defense--To the Rescue with a
Winchester--Best Localities for Hunting the Grizzly--Baiting and
Still-Hunting--A Surprise Party in the Trail--Two Bulls-eyes and
a Miss--Fresh Meat and Revelry in Camp.

CHAPTER XXII.

Elk Hunting in the Rocky Mountains--Characteristics of the
Elk--His Mode of Travel--A Stampede in a Thicket--The Whistle of
the Elk, the Hunter's Sweetest Music--Measurements of a Pair of
Antlers--Saved by Following an Elk Trail--The Work of
Exterminators--The Elk Doomed.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Antelope Hunting in Montana--A Red Letter Day on Flat
Willow--Initiating a Pilgrim--Sample Shots--Flagging and
Fanning--Catching Wounded Antelopes on Horseback--Four
Mule-Loads of Meat.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Buffalo Hunting on the Texas Plains--A "Bull Train" Loaded with
Skins--A Sensation in Fort Worth--En Route to the Range--Red
River Frank's Mission--A Stand on the Herd--Deluged with Buffalo
Blood--A Wild Run by Indians--Tossed into the Air and Trampled
into the Earth.

CHAPTER XXV.

Hunting the Rocky Mountain Goat--Technical Description of the
Animal--Its Limited Range--Dangers Incurred in Hunting It--An
Army Officer's Experience--A Perilous Shot--A Long and Dangerous
Pursuit--Successful at Last--Carrying the Trophies to
Camp--Wading up Lost Horse Creek--Numerous Baths in Icy
Water--An Indian's Fatal Fall--Horses Stampeded by a Bear--Seven
Days on Foot and Alone--Home at Last.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Trouting in the Mountains--Gameness of the Mountain Trout--A Red
Letter Day on the Bitter Root--Frontier Tackle and Orthodox
Bait--How a Private Soldier Gets to the Front as an Angler--A
Coot Interrupts the Sport, and a Rock Interrupts the
Coot--Colonel Gibson takes a Nine-Pounder--A Native Fly
Fisherman--Grand Sport on Big Spring Creek--How Captain Hathaway
does the Honors--Where Grand Sport may be Found.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Deer Hunting in Northern Wisconsin--On the Range at Daylight--The
Woods Full of Game--Missing a Standing "Broadside" at Thirty
Yards--Several Easy Shots in Rapid Succession; the only Fruits
Shame and Chagrin--Nervousness and Excitement Finally Give Way
to Coolness and Deliberation--A Big Buck at Long Range--A Steady
Aim and a Ruptured Throat--A Blind Run Through Brush and Fallen
Trees--Down at Last--A Noble Specimen--His Head as a Trophy

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Among the Pines--A Picture of Autumnal Loveliness--Cordial
Welcome to a Logging Camp--A Successful Shot--The Music of the
Dinner Horn--A Throat Cut and a Leg Broken--A Stump for a
Watch-Tower--The Raven Homeward Bound--A Suspicious Buck--A
Mysterious Presence--Dead Beside His Mate--Three Shots and Three
Deer

CHAPTER XXIX.

A Typical Woodsman--Model Home in the Great Pine Forest--A
Lifetime in the Wilderness--A Deer in a Natural
Trap--Disappointment and Despondency--"What, You Killed a
Buck!"--Sunrise in the Woods--An Unexpected Shot--A Free Circus
and a Small Audience--A Buck as a Bucker--More Venison

CHAPTER XXX.

Cowboy Life--The Boys that Become Good Range Riders--Peculiar
Tastes and Talents Required for the Ranch--Wages Paid to
Cowboys--Abuse and Misrepresentation to which They are
Subjected--The "Fresh Kid," and the Long-Haired "Greaser"--The
Stranger Always Welcome at the Ranch--A Dude Insulted--A Plaid
Ulster, a Green Umbrella, and a Cranky Disposition--Making a
Train Crew Dance--An Uncomplimentary Concert--No Sneak Thieves
on the Plains--Leather Breeches, Big Spurs, and a Six-Shooter in
a Sleeping Car--Fear Gives Way to Admiration--The Slang of the
Range--The "Bucker," and the "Buster"--The Good
Cow-Horse--Roping for Prizes--Snaking a Bear with a Lariat--A
Good School for Boys--Communion with Nature Makes Honest

CHAPTER XXXI.

A Montana Roundup--Ranges and Ranches on Powder River; Once the
Home of the Buffalo, the Elk, the Antelope; now the Home of the
Texas Steer and the Cowboy--The Great Plains in Spring Attire--A
Gathering of Rustlers--"Chuck Outfits" to the Front--Early
Risers--Taming an "Alecky" Steer--A Red-Hot Device--Branding and
Slitting--The Run on the Mess Wagon--"Cutting Out" and "Throwing
Over"--A Cruel Process.

CRUISINGS IN THE CASCADES.