Chapter I: Preface

On joining the United States frigate Congress, fitting for sea, at Norfolk, and destined to the Pacific, I commenced a journal, in which I sketched down the incidents of each day, as they occurred. It was more a whim of the hour, than any purpose connected with the public press. It was a diverting experiment on the monotony of a sea-life; was continued because it had been begun—and the present volume is the result. The streamlet flows from gathered drops.

I send it to the press as it was written, except the division into chapters, which has been made at the suggestion of the publishers, who perhaps, think the yarn will reel better if the thread be broken. It undoubtedly contains passages which may seem light and irrelevant; but a diary has privileges, in this respect, which are not extended to compositions of a graver character. He who gathers what the chance wind may shake from the trees of his garden, will find some leaves as well as fruit in his basket; and he may find there the nest of some insect that has a sting in it, but this he has no right to send to market. He may send the leaves—perhaps their sear hues may set off the bloom of his fruit, as a wrinkle the rouge through which age sometimes seeks to blush back again into youth.

The members of Congress are responsible for any typographical errors which the volume may contain, for they so lumbered the mails, between Washington—where the proofs were sent—and New York, with their speeches, that my publishers had about as little chance of getting a corrected copy through this travelling Babel, as they would have had in finding a righteous man in Sodom after Lot had left. I know it seems cruel to roll the responsibility of blunders on a body of men who have errors enough of their own to answer for. But the evil one himself is held accountable for the sins of half the world.

Having thus conveniently disposed of all responsibility, I leave my Deck and Port to the wave and strand, where they belong. Wreckers will receive no salvage from me—they must make the most of the floating planks. I only ask them not to scuttle the craft before she strikes.

W. C.

NOTE.

The incidents which connected the officers of the Pacific Squadron and
of the army, and many other prominent persons, with public events in
California, are not reached by the Diary of this volume; they fall
within the three years which are reserved for another work, entitled
“_Three Years in California_.”

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.—PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE.

Orders to the Congress.—Passengers’ poop-cabin.—Passing U. S.
ship Pennsylvania.—Divine service.—Waiting the
wind.—Rip-raps.—Internal arrangements.—Library of the
crew.—Ship cheered.—Departure of the pilot Page 13

CHAPTER II.—PASSAGE FROM NORFOLK TO RIO DE JANEIRO.

A culprit.—Corporal punishments.—Divine service.—A bird.—A
gale.—Grandeur of the Gulf stream.—Man missing.—Tracts on
board.—Waterspout.—Life at sea.—An eclipse.—The
sick-bay.—Moral mechanism of a man-of-war.—Speaking a
brig.—Departure of Mr. Beale.—Death of Spillier.—Astor-House
sailor.—Universalist chaplain.—A petrel.—Speaking a
ship.—Departure of Mr. Norris.—Crossing the
equator.—Southern constellations.—A man lost.—Land ho! 22

CHAPTER III.—RIO DE JANEIRO.

Bay of Rio.—Scenery.—Aspect of the city.—Royal palace and
chapel.—Lancers and baby.—Miseracordia.—Aqueduct.—Morning
ride.—Botanic garden.—Tea-plant.—The Sabbath in
Rio.—Museum.—Nunnery.—Jealousy of husbands.—A pompous
funeral.—The Plymouth.—Hon. Henry A.
Wise.—Slave-trade.—Marriages and domestic
arrangements.—Political condition of the
Brazilians.—Treatment of the
slaves.—Religion.—Washerwomen.—San Antonio.—Climate.—The
unknown couple.—Diamonds.—Farewell to Rio 86

CHAPTER IV.—PASSAGE FROM RIO TO CAPE HORN.

Getting under way.—The letter-bag.—Runaway sailor.—Isle of St.
Catharine.—Pamperoes.—The shotted gun.—Loss of our coon.—The
sailor and shark.—General quarters at night.—Fireworks in
the sea.—The phantom ship.—Patagonians.—The Falkland
Islands.—The captured albatros.—Terrific gale.—Condition of
our frigate.—The sailor’s burial.—The cape of storms 125

CHAPTER V.—PASSAGE FROM CAPE HORN TO VALPARAISO.

Gale.—Habits of the albatros and penguin.—The sea off Cape
Horn.—Sleet and hail.—Farewell to the Cape.—Directions for
doubling the Cape.—Gale in the Pacific.—Appearance of the
stars.—A rainbow.—Divine service.—The razor at sea.—The
little bark.—Plum-pudding and tripe.—The
Cordilleras.—Arrival at Valparaiso Page 156

CHAPTER VI.—SKETCHES OF VALPARAISO.

Aspect of the city.—Groups on the quay.—Chilian
horsemanship.—The women.—Huts of the natives.—American and
English society.—Opera-house.—The tertulia.—Mode of
travelling.—Police of the city.—Visits from the
shore.—Feudal system.—The clergy.—The Bible in Chili.—The
confessional.—Burial-ground.—The Indian mother.—Political
condition of Chili.—Farewell to Valparaiso 191

CHAPTER VII.—PASSAGE FROM VALPARAISO TO CALLAO.

Flare up of the Pacific.—Songs of seamen.—Sailors on
shore.—Loss of the Samson of our ship.—The setting sun at
sea.—Our Astor-House sailor.—The mad poet of the crew.—Land
ho!—Aspect of Callao.—Appearance of the natives.—The burial
isle 219

CHAPTER VIII.—SKETCHES OF LIMA.

Incidents of the road.—The grand plaza.—Shops and houses.—The
saya y manto.—American lady.—Mixture of races.—Demeanor of
girls and boys.—Procession on Palm Sunday.—Convent of the
Franciscans.—Doctors of Lima.—Good Friday.—The Last
Supper.—Pilate’s court.—Garden of Gethsemane.—Close of
Lent.—Jubilations.—Climate.—An officer in
prison.—Lawyers.—The Indian’s eyrie.—Lottery.—Bull-fight 234

CHAPTER IX.—SKETCHES OF LIMA.

Education of females.—Marriages.—Lapses from virtue.—The
sunset bell.—Silk factory in a convent.—Habits of the
Indians.—The half wedlock.—Blind pedler.—Protestant youth in
Lima.—Religion of the Limanians.—Intrigues at court.—Modes
of living.—The Zampas.—Churches.—Indian doctors.—Fruits of
the country.—Old Spanish families.—Masses for the repose Of
the soul 265

CHAPTER X.—PASSAGE FROM CALLAO TO HONOLULU.

Departure from Callao.—The rum smuggler.—Sunset.—Sea-birds.—A
sailor’s defence.—General quarters.—Spirit ration.—The
sailor and religion.—The flag.—Sagacity of the rat.—The
cloud.—Calms and showers.—Religious
tracts.—Constellations.—Trade winds.—Conduct of the
crew.—Moon in the zenith.—Lay sermon.—Funeral.—Land ho! 299

CHAPTER XI.—SKETCHES OF HONOLULU.

Bay of Honolulu.—Kanacka funeral.—The missionaries.—Huts and
habits of the natives.—Taro-plant.—Roast dog.—School of the
young chiefs.—Ride in the country.—The
Mausoleum.—Cocoanut-tree.—Canoes.—Heathen temple.—King’s
chapel.—Ride to Ewa.—Father Bishop.—His sable flock 328

CHAPTER XII.—SKETCHES OF HONOLULU.

The king and court.—American commissioner.—Royal
residence.—The salt lake.—Surf sports of the natives.—Gala
day.—The women on horseback.—Sailor’s equestrianism.—The old
man and the children at play.—Address of Com.
Stockton.—Capt. La Place.—His Jesuits and brandy.—Lord
George Paulet 348

CHAPTER XIII.—PASSAGE FROM HONOLULU TO MONTEREY.

The moral pharos.—The Mormon ship.—Bible class.—The
sea-hen.—Our insane sailor.—Fourth of July.—Profaneness at
sea.—Evening prayer-meeting.—Funeral.—Target
firing.—Religious condition of the crew.—Anchor under
Monterey 367

CHAPTER XIV.—GLANCES INTO CALIFORNIA.

Sailors on shore as soldiers.—The bear flag.—Capt. Fremont and
armed band.—Departure of Admiral Seymour.—San
Francisco.—Aspect of the town.—Habits of the people.—Spirit
of speculation.—Gambling.—Effects of the gold mines.—Past
and present condition of the country 386

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DECK AND PORT.