Chapter 2: 13 (3)

Having made these arrangements, we left for Port Phillip, where, after landing another party at Shortland's Bluff, also to make tidal observations, we pursued our course round Indented Head towards Corio Harbour, anchoring off Point Henry--where no less than four vessels were lading with wool for England--early on the morning of the 27th. We devoted the remainder of this day and the next to making a plan of the harbour; and from the result of our survey I feel more than ever convinced that the bar (through the northern part of which a channel winds for vessels of eight feet at low-water) might be removed, and the entrance rendered fit for vessels of any draught. There is deep water in the south-western part, close to the northern side of Geelong, where, by erecting wharfs, large ships might discharge alongside, an advantage which can never be obtained at Melbourne,* and of so great importance that I am induced to believe Geelong will ultimately be the capital of Australia Felix. In this event communication will be held with Melbourne by railroad, for which the country intervening is admirably adapted, being a complete level the entire way. At present a steamer plies daily between the two places; and when we consider that on our last visit, only two years before, Geelong consisted of a few sheds at its north end only, and now stretched across from Corio Harbour to the River Barwon, a space of more than a mile, the belief seems warranted that at no distant period the line of rail I allude to must be laid down. The township is now divided into North and South Geelong; the latter lies on a slope, reaching the river's edge.

(*Footnote. Corio Harbour is in fact the best anchorage in Port Phillip, that at Hobson's Bay being very confined, and scarcely affording any shelter from southerly winds for large ships. Moreover, Corio Harbour lies more convenient for the western districts, there being no other place where the sheep-farmers of those parts can, with safety, ship their wool, except Portland Bay.)

CAPTAIN FYANS.

Located in a snug house, with a garden teeming with flowers, that reminded one of home, and overlooking a still reach of the Barwon, I found Captain Fyans, of whom I have before spoken.

ENCOUNTER WITH A NATIVE.

In the course of conversation, pointing to a weapon used by the natives, called a Lliangle, resembling a miner's pick, he said, "I had that driven through my horse's nose, a short time since, by a native, of whom I was in pursuit." As I expressed a desire to be made acquainted with the circumstance, he informed me, that being out with a party of mounted police, in search of some natives who had been committing depredations on the flocks of the settlers, in the neighbourhood of Port Fairey, he suddenly, whilst crossing a valley in advance of his men, came upon the chief of those of whom he was in chase. He, too, was alone; an attack immediately commenced. The native threw his spears, but without effect; and Captain Fyans, finding that the rain had wetted the priming of his pistols, charged to cut him down; but such was his antagonist's dexterity in defending himself with his shield, only a narrow piece of wood, that beyond a few nicks on the fingers, Captain Fyans' sword-cuts were of no avail. Several times he attempted to ride over the native; who, however, doubled himself up in a ball under his shield, and was saved by the natural reluctance of a horse to trample on a prostrate man in going over him. After having been apparently more than once ridden down, the chief managed to drive his lliangle through the horse's nose, and so firmly that he was unable to withdraw it. The wound inflicted bled so freely that Captain Fyans was obliged to pull up, and the native made his escape. He was not only a fine fellow in conduct, but in person, having a chest, as Captain Fyans expressed it, like a bullock's. I afterwards learned that he displayed the sword-cuts upon his shield in triumph at some of the sheep-stations.

From Corio Harbour* we proceeded to Hobson's Bay, for a meridian distance, the result of which was highly satisfactory, differing from our former measurement only five seconds. The longitude, therefore, of Batman's Hill, 6 degrees 16 minutes 17 seconds West of Sydney, or (approximately) 144 degrees 59 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich, may be relied on.

(*Footnote. The approach to this harbour would be vastly improved by a buoy placed at the end of the spit extending nearly across from Point Wilson on the north shore.)

MELBOURNE.

A great improvement had been made since our last visit in the approach to the anchorage, by the erection of a light on Point Gellibrand.* This we found to be a small lamp fixed at the top of a kind of wooden framework, thirty feet high, suggested by the superintendent, Mr. LaTrobe; and for a temporary economical affair, until a more expensive light can be afforded, it is certainly a clever contrivance.

(*Footnote. This light may be seen from a ship's deck, in clear weather, seven miles off. Vessels intending to anchor in Hobson's Bay should keep the light bearing North-West by North until the water shoals to 6 fathoms; then steer North by West. When the lights of William Town open out, bearing South-West by West, haul in West-South-West for the anchorage. The best berth is in 3 1/2 fathoms, with the light bearing South 1/4 East and the jetty at William Town South-West 1/2 West.)

The last three years had also made great additions to the buildings of William Town; but Melbourne had so increased that we hardly knew it again. Wharfs and stores fronted the banks of the Yarra-yarra; whilst further down, tanners and soap-boilers had established themselves on either side, where, formerly, had been tea-tree thickets, from which the cheerful pipe of the bell-bird greeted the visitor. Very different, however, were now the sights, and sounds, and smells, that assailed our senses; the picturesque wilderness had given place to the unromantic realities of industry; and the reign of business had superseded that of poetry and romance.

MANNA.

Near Melbourne I again noticed the manna mentioned above, but had no opportunity of making further observations upon it. Mr. Bynoe, however, having since visited Australia, has turned his attention to the subject, and the result of his experience, which will be found below, tends to overthrow the opinion I have previously expressed, to the effect, that this substance is the exudation of a tree, not the deposit of an insect.*

(*Footnote. There is a prevailing opinion in some parts of New Holland, particularly on the east side, that the gumtrees distil a peculiar form of manna, which drops at certain seasons of the year. I have heard it from many of the inhabitants, who, on a close investigation, could only say, that it was to be found adhering to the old and young bark of the trees, as well as strewed on the ground beneath.

In the month of December, about the warmest period of the year, during my rambles through the forest in search of insects, I met with this manna in the above-mentioned state, but could never find in any part of the bark a fissure or break whence such a substance could flow. Wherever it appeared, moreover, the red-eyed cicadae were in abundance. I was inclined to think that the puncture produced by these suctorial insects into the tender shoots for juice, would in all probability give an exit for such a substance; but by wounding the tender branches with a sharp-pointed knife, I could never obtain a saccharine fluid or substance. It was the season when the cicadae were abundantly collected together for reproduction; and on warm, clear, still days, they clung to the more umbrageous parts, particularly to trees that, having been deprived of old limbs, shot forth vigorous stems, thickly clustered with leaves. To one of these, in which the male insects were making an intolerable noise, I directed my steps, and quietly sheltered myself from a hot wind that was crossing the harbour, bringing with it a dense column of smoke, which for a short time shut out the powerful rays of the sun. I found that the ground about the root of the tree was thinly covered with the sugar-like substance, and in a few minutes I felt that a fluid was dropping, which soon congealed on my clothes into a white substance. On rising cautiously to ascertain from whence it came, with a full determination not to disturb the insects but to watch their pursuits, I observed that it was passing of a syrup-like consistence per anum from the cicadae. As it ran down the smooth branches of the gumtree and over the leaves it gradually congealed, and formed a white efflorescence. Whilst ejecting this fluid, the insect raised the lower part of the abdomen and passed off three or four drops in sudden jets, which either streamed down the stem, or fell on the leaves or ground.

I watched them for nearly half an hour, and in that space of time observed between twenty and thirty distil this fluid, which gradually concreted into a white substance. I collected above three ounces, some of which I still have in my possession. The natives gather it in their rush baskets and use it as a part of their food.)

RED BLUFF.

Leaving Hobson's Bay we passed along the east shore of Port Phillip in search of a ledge of rocks, reported to lie about three miles off Red Bluff, which is eight miles to the southward of the above-mentioned bay. We, however, found this danger to be nothing more than the extreme of the reef fronting that bluff for a distance of half a mile, in a West by North direction, and which has three feet on it at low-water, with three fathoms just outside. As the soundings gradually decrease to this depth, the lead will always keep a ship clear of it.

Anchoring under Arthur's Seat, I delivered the letters with which Mr. Powlett, Commissioner of Crown Lands at Melbourne, had kindly furnished me, to the different settlers in the neighbourhood, requesting them to afford me every assistance in my contemplated visit to Cape Shanck, for the purpose of determining its position.

DR. BARKER.

One of them was addressed to a gentleman residing close to the Cape, Dr. Barker, to whom it was forwarded, and who returned with the messenger to welcome me to his station, and in the most liberal manner placed at my disposal, his horses and his services.

ARTHUR'S SEAT.

Early the following morning, a well mounted party of us started for Arthur's Seat. I wished to get a few angles from its summit, and to show to Captain Bunbury, R.N., Superintendent of Water Police at Melbourne, the banks at the eastern entrance of the South Channel. Dr. Barker had brought his dogs over with him, to show us some sport on our way to Cape Shanck. They formed quite a pack; and among them were two bloodhounds of a celebrated Duke's breed at home. Their deep rich notes as they wound round the foot of Arthur's Seat, after a kangaroo, were quite cheering to the heart; but the ground was too hilly for the fast dogs, and too dry for the scent to lie.

I was disappointed in not seeing Port Western from Arthur's Seat, which had one of those unsatisfactory woody summits, of which it is difficult exactly to ascertain the highest part. We passed a spring of water near the south-eastern foot, and in a level beyond were some large lagoons.

Our course was now bent towards Cape Shanck, lying eight miles to the south. The first part lay over a level open woodland country; low hills then made their appearance, becoming more numerous as we neared our destination. At their commencement we turned off the road to look for a kangaroo; a herd was soon found; but all, after a sharp burst of a few miles, got away from us.

KILLING A KANGAROO.

When both horses and dogs had regained their wind we went to better ground, and came suddenly on a fine herd. A large male, called an Old Man by the colonists, loitering to protect the does under his care, was singled out by the fastest dog; and a splendid run ensued; the country, however, being rather woody, and strewed with fallen timber which was concealed by long grass, only those who risked the pace over it enjoyed the sport. The dogs stuck well to their game, and coming at last to an open piece of ground, the fleetest began to close with the Old Man, who was covering an immense space in each bound. At length the dog reached the kangaroo's quarters, and burying his teeth in them, made him face about, cutting at his pursuer, who kept out of reach, with his hind feet, and then turning round and endeavouring to escape. But the same liberty being again taken with his haunches he was once more brought to bay. The rest of the pack now came up, and a fine half-bloodhound rushed in and seized the kangaroo* by the throat; whilst the latter, in return, fiercely clutched the dog round the neck; a violent struggle ensued, each trying to choke the other. Although the dog that had first reached the Old Man was biting his quarters, the danger that the game hound would be laid open by a cut from the kangaroo's hind feet, determined Dr. Barker and myself to watch an opportunity of creeping up behind a tree to assist in the struggle. We accordingly did so, and managed to seize the animal by his monstrous tail, so that by keeping a strain on it he was prevented from lifting his hind leg, as if he had we should have pulled him over.

(*Footnote. Although these animals have a most innocent countenance, the large males are very dangerous when brought to bay. I know an instance of a gentleman, who was endeavouring to assist his dog in killing one of them, having his clothes severed in front and the skin of his body just scratched by a cut from the hind leg. Had this person been any nearer the kangaroo, his bowels would have been torn open. The middle toe projecting and being armed with a strong nail, enable them to inflict dreadful wounds, and frequently to kill dogs. It is seldom, indeed, that they will attack a kangaroo in front; old dogs never do, but have a very clever way of throwing the smaller kind by the stump of the tail when running.)

The dogs, thus protected from injury, were at last victorious; and the kangaroo, a great beast, weighing nearly two hundred pounds, was soon stretched on the ground.

CAPE SHANCK.

Having secured the tail and hind feet we continued our road to Dr. Barker's station, situated in one of the rich valleys I have spoken of, in an early part of the work, as lying a mile and a half to the North-East of Cape Shanck.

On account of the state of the weather we were obliged to tax this gentleman's hospitality for two nights, both the early parts of which were passed on Cape Shanck, watching between the clouds for observations. This cape is a narrow projection of calcareous formation, rendered remarkable by a pulpit-shaped rock lying close off it. About a mile to the north is a hill 190 feet high, which has been selected for the site of a lighthouse for showing vessels their position off the entrance of Port Phillip. Being so distant, however, it is of more service for Port Western.

From Dr. Barker I received some curious information respecting the Aborigines. It appears that there is great hostility between the Port Phillip and Gipps' Land natives, who occasionally visit each other's territory for the purposes of war. So great is the feeling of enmity between them, that they will frequently take a piece of the flesh of their foes and pass it through the skin of their thighs or arms, where they leave it until it withers.

SOUTH CHANNEL.

Returning to the ship we placed a buoy* on the five-fathom bar at the eastern entrance of the South Channel, the bearings from which are Whale Head South 33 degrees West, and Arthur's Seat South 79 degrees East; Points Nepean and Lonsdale being a little open. Passing through this channel,** we spent an afternoon within the heads for the purpose of visiting the lighthouse just built on Shortland's Bluff.*** This I found to be 108 feet high; the lantern, to contain a fixed light, had not been established. The position of this light being so far within the entrance it is only visible between South-West 1/2 West, and South 1/4 West; and a light placed at the extremity of the rocky ledge off Point Nepean would be of infinitely more service in showing vessels the entrance of the port.

(*Footnote. Another buoy at the east extremity of the bank on the north side of the channel, which is very steep to, and one at the west end of the bank on the south side, would render the navigation free from difficulty, as the banks on either side can be readily made out.)

(**Footnote. The directions for entering by this line-of-battle ship channel are as follows. After passing Point Nepean steer for Arthur's Seat, keeping Point Flinders open south of Lonsdale Point until the last cliffy projection is passed and bears South 1/4 West. Then steer half a point to the left of Arthur's Seat, shutting in Point Flinders with Point Nepean, and keeping Point Lonsdale a little open of the latter. The buoy at the eastern entrance will now soon be made out, and should be kept in line with Arthur's Seat. Pass on the north side of the buoy and then haul up South-East until the water shoals to five fathoms, or until Whale Head bears South-West by West; then steer North-East by East for Mount Martha, the next hill north of Arthur's Seat, until the latter bears South-East, when a course may be shaped for Hobson's Bay.)

(***Footnote. The patch of dark bushes, breaking the sand beach to the northward, and forming one of the leading marks in, had been so thinned that it was very indistinct. Mr. LaTrobe, however, was going to remedy this evil by erecting a beacon on that spot.)

Whilst we were at Port Phillip this time, a schooner left in a somewhat mysterious manner, on board of which was the Honourable Mr. Murray, who fell afterwards in a conflict with the pirates at Borneo. The particulars of this gallant affair must be fresh in the recollection of my readers.

TIDES AT PORT PHILLIP.

Leaving Port Phillip,* we returned to Port Western to pick up the party we had left there. Mr. Fitzmaurice found Cape Patterson, of which I have before spoken, to lie fourteen miles South-West by West 1/2 West from the eastern entrance of Port Western,** and twenty-one miles North 55 degrees West from Cape Liptrap, the next headland to the eastward.

(*Footnote. The result of the tidal observations made at Shortland's Bluff, gives 12 hours 20 minutes for the time of high-water on the full and change days. The simultaneous ones made in other parts of this great sheet of water during our stay, gave the times of high-water later as follows:

At William Town: 1 hour 0 minutes. Under Arthur's Seat: 1 hour 45 minutes. At Corio Harbour: 2 hours 30 minutes.

At the entrance of Port Phillip the rise at springs is only three feet and a half, when the stream makes in at 2 hours 0 minutes. It also continues to run out from one to two hours after the water begins to rise by the shore. The outward and inward streams differ considerably; the latter being from 5 to 5 1/2 hours' duration, whereas the former is from 6 to 6 1/2 and 7. The outward stream between the heads sometimes attains a strength of nearly 7 knots, and when opposed to a southerly gale, causes a sea dangerous to small craft; these gales heap the water up in all parts of the bay, particularly at William Town in the northern corner. On such occasions there is scarcely any fall of tide perceptible near the entrance; the outward stream is then also much weaker. In the West Channel the flood and ebb-streams have a velocity of from 1 to 2 1/2 knots; but in the south it seldom exceeds two. Above the banks or in the inlet leading to Corio harbour there is scarcely any stream of tide perceptible; but through the channel over the bar at the latter the flood runs nearly three quarters of a knot. Outside the entrance the ebb sets between South by East and South-South-West for seven miles, when its strength is weakened to about a knot; from thence it trends more westerly towards the mouth of the Strait.)

CAPE PATTERSON.

Five and seven miles to the westward of Cape Patterson there are two rivulets, near the former of which an inferior kind of coal crops out; it occurs in beds of the carboniferous series. Between the two headlands above mentioned the shore falls back, forming a bight six miles deep, at the head of which is Anderson's Inlet, six miles in extent, full of mud banks, and available for boats only. A river, called Toluncan by the natives, empties itself into the head of it.

(*Footnote. The observations on the tides at this place make the time of high-water at the full and change days 1 hour 10 minutes, when the rise is 8 feet. The stream in the main channel runs upwards of 2 knots, and off the North-East end of Grant Island it makes to the eastward about two hours before the time of high-water; this difference is to be attributed to the flood entering round both ends of the island.)

From Port Western we carried a line of soundings across the Strait to Circular Head,* the greatest depth midway between being 40 fathoms. Here, according to arrangement, we met the Vansittart. Bad weather had prevented Mr. Forsyth from completing the work allotted the cutter. We found the management of the Van Diemen's Land Agricultural Company in the hands of Mr. Gibson, from whom we received great attention. The new system of letting lands, recently adopted by this Company, was working well; and it certainly appeared to be a very fair mode of getting their lands occupied.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE WESTERN ENTRANCE OF BASS STRAIT.

(*Footnote. My intention of getting some more soundings in the western entrance of Bass Strait was frustrated; but as I have entered into detail respecting the eastern entrance, I am induced to devote some space to a few directions, which may aid in averting a repetition of such terrible catastrophes as the late wreck of the Cataraqui on the western side of King Island. The western entrance, formed by the islands off the north-west point of Tasmania and the projection on the Australian continent called Cape Otway, is 108 miles wide. King Island, lying nearly midway, occupies 35 miles of this space, and leaves to the north of it a passage of 47 miles in width, and to the south one of 37 miles. The latter, however, is impeded by Reid's Rocks, the Conway and Bell sunken rocks, with Albatross Island and the Black Pyramid; the tide also sets across it at the rate of from one to three knots, as I have already mentioned in the first volume; consequently, the entrance between King Island and Cape Otway is much safer, the chief danger being the Harbinger Rocks, two granite boulders, with deep water between, one lying North 74 degrees West three miles and a half, and the other North 88 degrees West, nearly four miles and a half from the north point of King Island, Cape Wickham, which may be recognized by a round hill, 595 feet high, over it. The southern Harbinger is a few feet only out of the water, and the other scarcely awash. These, with the Navarin Rock, lying North 25 degrees West, one mile and a half from the same cape, and the reef lying half a mile off Cape Otway, constitute the sole dangers in this entrance.

Masters of vessels should endeavour, if possible, to make the land in the neighbourhood of Cape Otway; but if the weather be thick they may know they are in the fairway of the Strait when they get into sixty fathoms, fine grey sand; in the same depth, with a rocky bottom, ships will be to the southward, and off the west side of King Island, which, as I have before described, is a rocky dangerous coast. There is a doubtful position of a sunken rock, ten miles West 1/2 North of the south point, which is low and rocky, and in latitude 40 degrees 10 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 58 minutes East; whilst Cape Wickham is in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 59 1/2 minutes, East; and Cape Otway in latitude 38 degrees 51 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 35 1/2 minutes East of Greenwich, considering Sydney, to which these longitudes refer, to be in 151 degrees 16 minutes East.

Various opinions have been expressed as to the best position for a lighthouse at this entrance of the Strait, some recommending Cape Wickham; others, Cape Otway. I, however, hold to the latter, for this simple reason, that it will avoid bringing ships in the neighbourhood of the Harbinger Rocks and the western side of King Island. If a light were erected on Cape Wickham, and a vessel running for it should be to the southward of her position, she would risk sharing the fate of the Cataraqui,* unless more caution were used than is generally the case, I regret to say, in merchant vessels. Whereas, if the light were on Cape Otway, a ship to the southward of her position would have the Strait open to run through, and to the northward, would discover her error, by falling in with the land. The lead, also, would inform the master that his ship was near it, there being 30 fathoms ten miles from the land thirty-five miles to the westward of Cape Otway; the trend of the coast besides is too westerly to make it a lee shore.

(*Footnote. In consequence of a letter of mine that appeared in the Times, the owners of the Cataraqui have communicated with me, stating that they have reason to believe the Beagle's chart of Bass Strait was among those with which the ship was furnished, and that with regard to leads and lines she was well supplied.)

From the middle of the entrance between Cape Wickham and Cape Otway, in 57 fathoms, fine grey sand, and in latitude 39 degrees 13 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 48 minutes East, the course to the entrance of Port Phillip, is North-East 1/2 North seventy miles; the soundings will be found, at first, to decrease rapidly, and in the parallel of Cape Otway the depth will be 47 fathoms, fine sand and shells. Further particulars respecting the quality of the bottom off this part of the coast will be found in the first volume.

A South-East 1/2 East course 176 miles, from the same position, will take a ship to Port Dalrymple. In the first twenty-nine miles of this distance, the soundings will have decreased to nearly 30 fathoms, and the ship's place should be then abreast of the North-East end of King Island, distant ten miles. The sight of this and, further on, of the Hunter Group, which should be passed at a distance of 20 miles to the South-West, will show if the right allowance has been made for the set of the tides. In the courses given in this note, the tidal influence has not been noticed; but I have above noticed the direction of the streams, and the allowance to be made will of course depend on what stream the ship enters or leaves the Strait with.

Again, from the same position, an east course, 136 miles, will place a ship four miles to the south of the Curtis Isles. The soundings will be found to decrease to 40 fathoms thirty miles to the eastward of King Island, and will continue within a fathom or two of that depth for the remainder of the distance.

Two hundred and four miles from the above position, on a North-East 1/4 East course, will take a ship to abreast of Cape Howe, distant twenty miles; passing midway between Hogan and Kent Groups, distant nearly nine miles from each, at which time twenty-eight miles will have been run on the above course. In passing the latter group, attention should be paid to the set of the tides; as with the flood-stream and a northerly wind vessels may be obliged to pass on the south side of it. Cape Howe bears from Kent Group, North 36 degrees East, 170 miles. When a ship gets into 30 fathoms she will be within 8 miles of the North-East side of these islands; and on the opposite she will have that depth half the distance off.

It only now remains to notice the tides in the passage north of King Island. It is high-water on the full and change days at 1 o'clock; the stream begins to set to the South-West three hours and a half before high-water, running with a velocity of from 1 to 2 knots; past the Harbinger Rocks, however, it sweeps round to the South-South-West, sometimes at the rate of nearly two knots and a half.

Having alluded to the entrance south of King Island in an earlier part of the work, and as it is a passage I do not recommend, I shall not here enter into many details respecting it, further than to say that if a ship is obliged to enter Bass Strait by that entrance, she should keep to the southward of Reid's Rocks, passing close to the Black Pyramid, a dark rocky lump, 240 feet high, in latitude 40 degrees 28 minutes South, longitude 144 degrees 18 1/2 minutes East. This should be made bearing North-East 3/4 East, which would keep ships clear of the Conway and Bell sunken rocks, the former and outermost of which lies fifteen miles North 83 degrees West from it. The cross set of the tides should be particularly borne in mind, and likewise their strength, which is sometimes 3 knots. The stream to the South-West by South begins at 3 P.M. on the full and change days, or three hours and a half before high-water. The depth in the south entrance varies from 35 to 38 fathoms.

I shall perhaps make this note more useful by stating that January and February are the best months for making a passage to the westward through Bass Strait; although easterly winds blow on some rare occasions at other times, but these are mostly gales, and generally terminate in a breeze from the opposite quarter, having much the character of a rotatory gale, one of which I have described in an early part of the work. The gales that chiefly prevail in this Strait begin at North-North-West, and gradually draw round by West to South-West, at which point they subside; but if the wind, before it has so much southing, veer again to the northward of west--or backs, as it is expressed--the gale will continue; but its duration may be told by the barometer, as it is seldom fine when it registers less than 29.95, and bad weather is certain if it falls to 29.70.

N.B. The courses recommended in this note are marked in the chart accompanying the work.)

Our anchorage this time was on the south side of the singular natural fortification I have before described; and whilst there we were placed in some anxiety by being caught in a gale from the eastward. The holding-ground, however, being very good, and a strong outset sweeping out of the bay round the south side of the head, lessened the strain on the cables. The sudden appearance of this breeze, and the manner in which it was succeeded by another from the westward, afforded additional evidence of how necessary it is for anchorages in this strait to be sheltered from both quarters. A jetty, which has been run out by the Company, forms available shelter at high-water for vessels of nine and ten feet draught.

On the 20th of January, having made a valuable set of tidal* and other observations, and arranged with Mr. Forsyth to meet him at Hobart, we sailed in the afternoon, and next morning passed half a mile from the south side of the Pyramid, in 35 fathoms. It is a light-coloured mass, worthy of its name, 300 feet high. From thence we steered towards Cape Frankland, the North-West point of Flinders Island, which we had still to examine, decreasing the soundings gradually to 26 fathoms within two miles and a half to the West-North-West of it. We could see nothing of the sunken rock said to lie two miles west from the above headland; yet, as we have not exactly gone over the spot, it has been marked in the chart with a p.d. against it.

(*Footnote. The line of high-water at the full and change is 11 hours 40 minutes, when the rise is 9 feet.)

HUMMOCK ISLAND.

I was also anxious to obtain a distant seaward view of Hummock Island,* which affords the best shelter for ships in westerly winds.

(*Footnote. This island, which affords a plentiful supply of fuel, is between five and six miles long, and scarcely half a mile in width, with a North by East trend. The anchorage lies abreast of the middle Hummock, where the depth is six fathoms, and may be approached by passing round either the north or south end of the island. Some low islets lie a mile and a half off the latter, with a narrow passage between; and a reef extends three quarters of a mile off the north point, which is in latitude 40 degrees 1 minute South, longitude 3 degrees 27 minutes West of Sydney, or 147 degrees 49 minutes East. It is distant three miles and a half from the nearest point of Flinders, where is situated the settlement of Tasmanian natives. A tide of from half to one knot sets through between, and the flood-stream comes from the northward. The outline of Hummock Island is so remarkable that it cannot fail of being recognised. In thick weather the navigator may know he is approaching this, and the other islands fronting the western side of Flinders, by having a depth of less than thirty fathoms.)

The north-west part of Flinders Island has a bold rugged outline. From our position off Cape Frankland, we carried a line of soundings across the passage south of Craggy Island, passing two miles to the eastward of it in twenty-seven fathoms. We then ran out of the strait and up to Sydney, to leave what stores were not absolutely required during the passage to England, for the use of the ships on the station.

RAILROADS FROM SYDNEY.

Having spoken of the feasibility of railroads in other parts of New South Wales, I cannot leave Sydney without suggesting what appear to me to be the most practicable directions for lines leading from that capital. As the country between Parramatta and Sydney is very hilly, I would recommend that part of the journey should be performed in a steamer; and that the railroad should commence on the right bank, about seven miles from the town. An extension of this line would lead into the north-western interior. Towards the south, and in the direction of the Manero district, the line ought to pass round the head of Botany Bay, and by following some of the valleys trending southwards, might reach nearly to Illawarra, the garden of New South Wales. In this manner, the rich Manero corn country, and the coalfields of Illawarra, might be brought into connection with Sydney, and a prodigious development imparted to the whole colony.

MORETON BAY.

I regretted being obliged to leave this part of Australia without visiting Moreton Bay, as a survey of the mouth of the Brisbane River would have enabled the settlers of that district, now rapidly increasing, to have sent their produce direct from thence to England; whereas, until a chart of it is published, masters of large ships do not like to go there. The residents are in consequence obliged to submit to the expense of first shipping their merchandise to Sydney. The Moreton Bay district is perhaps one of the most fertile on the continent, combining the advantages of great partial elevation and of proximity to the equator, so that, within a comparatively short distance, the productions of both the tropical and the temperate zones may be found. Corn grows on the high plains; bananas, raisins, etc., on the lowlands; in short, as in Mexico, the traveller finds, in ascending from the sea-coast to the summit of the hills, almost the same successive gradations of climate as in passing from the tropics towards the poles.

FAREWELL TO SYDNEY.

Our final arrangements were soon made; and on the 18th of February, the Beagle was turning out between the heads.* I cannot for the last time bid adieu to a place, which had become to us as it were a second home, without once more alluding to the reception I had experienced from its inhabitants. To enumerate any particular instances would be invidious; space forbids me to pay due acknowledgments to all. In general, therefore, I must say, that every attention which kindness and hospitality could suggest, was paid to the officers of the Beagle, and a debt of gratitude accumulated which it will be difficult to repay.

(*Footnote. It is worthy of mention, that vessels working in against the ebb-tide, should get close under the inner south head before making a board across the entrance, as the stream sets round the north head a knot an hour to the northward, but has a southerly direction from one to two miles off.)

Fresh easterly winds in the first instance, and light northerly ones latterly, carried us rapidly to the southward, and towards midnight of the 21st, we crossed the parallel of 39 degrees 31 minutes South,* steering South by West 1/2 West.

(*Footnote. In this latitude a shoal was reported to have been seen by a vessel bound to Sydney, from Banks Strait, in 1838. The master of her states, that he sounded on it in seven fathoms, and saw moored kelp occupying the space of about half a mile. As this vessel's latitude, by her run from Banks Strait, was twenty miles further south, we cannot place much confidence in this report, in which it is stated, that when Cape Barren bore West eight miles, they steered North-East for sixty miles, when finding themselves, near noon, close to broken water, they wore the vessel's head round to the southward, and sounded in seven fathoms in kelp; the latitude by observation being 39 degrees 31 minutes South. As it was blowing strong at the time from the North-West with a high sea, and as there was only one cast of the lead taken, in the confusion of wearing, it is possible they might have been deceived. The kelp might have been adrift, and the sea, in that neighbourhood, often breaks irregularly as if on foul ground. The position of this supposed shoal, by the run from Banks Strait would be, latitude 39 degrees 51 minutes South, longitude 149 degrees 40 minutes East; but as this gives a difference of twenty miles in the latitude by observation, and as the Beagle has crossed those parallels ten times between the meridians of 148 degrees 4 minutes and 150 degrees 13 minutes, and, moreover, as the position assigned this shoal lies so much in the track of vessels running between Hobart and Sydney, there is every reason to doubt its existence.)

EAST COAST OF TASMANIA.

On the 23rd, we passed along the east coast of Tasmania, at the distance of eight miles. The weather being fine and the water smooth, we had frequent opportunities of testing the accuracy of the present chart, which we found to be about three miles in error both in latitude and longitude; the latter with respect to the meridian of Fort Mulgrave.*

(*Footnote. Strange to say, the position assigned this place in the chart, 147 degrees 28 minutes East is much in error with regard to longitude, as Fort Mulgrave is 3 degrees 52 minutes 35 seconds West of Sydney, or 147 degrees 23 minutes 25 seconds East; this, with the error I have already alluded to in the east coast of Tasmania, the most available one for shipping, points out the necessity of having the survey of that island completed.)

JOURNEY TO LAUNCESTON.

Next afternoon we entered the Derwent and anchored off Hobart. Finding that his Excellency Sir John Franklin had just left for Launceston, I proceeded thither to wait on him. Our stay in the Derwent depending on a favourable change in the weather, it was necessary that we should be always in readiness to leave, and accordingly I travelled by the fastest conveyance, the mail-cart, a sort of gig drawn by one horse, which, however, by means of frequent changes and good cattle, manages to average nine miles an hour. It leaves Hobart, at half-past seven P.M., and reaches Launceston a little before eleven the following morning. It was a cold, bleak night; but as the road was excellent, and I was well muffled up, with my feet in a bag, the time passed cheerily. The general topic of conversation during the journey was about some three desperate bushrangers,* who appeared to keep all the innkeepers in dread of a visit. At one place we stopped at, the host came up with a rueful countenance, and told us that it was only the previous night that he had been stuck up, with a pistol at his head, while they took what they wanted from his larder.

(*Footnote. The most notorious of these characters was one Michael Howe, who became a bushranger in 1812. In 1817 he separated from his party, taking with him a native girl, whom he shot when hotly pursued, because he imagined she might occasion delay. He twice surrendered on condition that his life should be spared; but soon resumed his predatory habits. In 1818 he was killed by three men who had planned his capture; having been nearly seven years in the bush, part of the time entirely alone. He committed several murders, and robberies innumerable. His head was conveyed to Hobart. In his knapsack was found a sort of journal of his dreams written with blood, and strongly indicative of the horrors of his mind.)

The first half of the journey was over a rather hilly and gradually rising country; the road then winds through almost one continued vale, bounded on either side by broken ranges of mountains. The noble Ben Lomond appears quite close on the right as you approach Launceston. I was much pleased with the comfortable inns on this line of road, the greater part of which is as smooth as a gravel walk.

RAILROADS IN TASMANIA.

I could not avoid, during this journey, being forcibly struck with the great facilities afforded by the road from Hobart to Launceston for a railway; and I have since heard and seen enough to convince me, that not only would such an undertaking be practicable, but that it would greatly conduce to the prosperity of Tasmania. At present, most of the productions of the northern part of the island are necessarily, on account of the expense of land-carriage, shipped at Launceston or Port Dalrymple, whereas the Derwent affords such superior facilities for the purposes of commerce, that if a means of cheap and rapid intercourse with it existed, nearly the whole export and import traffic of the coasts would be drawn thither. I have already observed that large vessels at Launceston cannot discharge alongside the wharfs. Besides, on the whole of the northern coast, with the exception of the Hunter Islands, there is no place of safety for a ship in all winds that a stranger would like to run into, the mouth of the Tamar being too much occupied with shoals. On the other hand, Hobart lies on that part of the island which may be approached with the greatest safety, being on a weather shore, whereas the northern side is partly a lee one. In saying thus much, I do not mean to imply that a private company, under ordinary circumstances, could construct a line with immediate advantage to itself, though I will go so far as to say, that in a very few years, comparatively, an ample remunerative return might be expected. What I especially desire to insist upon, is the fact, that a railroad traversing Tasmania from north to south would be a great benefit to the community, would stimulate trade, and consequently production, and would aid in restoring the prosperity which it once enjoyed.

LABOUR MARKET.

This being granted, let us take into consideration the condition of the labour market in that country, and observe what an opportunity now presents itself of executing a work of prodigious magnitude at a comparatively trifling cost. It will be seen at once that I allude to the population of probationers, pass-holders, ticket-of-leave men, who now compete with the free inhabitants, and cause the whole land to throng with people in want of work, with paupers and with thieves.

The great evil at present complained of by the settlers of Tasmania, is the superabundance of labour. In most other colonies the contrary complaint is made; and were it not for peculiar circumstances, the great demand in one place would soon relieve the pressure in the other. But it must be remembered, that the glut in the Tasmanian labour market is produced by the presence of crowds of convicts, in various stages of restraint, all prevented from leaving the island, and forced to remain and seek employment there; so that as soon as the demand for labour falls off, or the supply of it becomes disproportionately large, it is the free population that is necessarily displaced.

The effect, therefore, of the gradual pouring of a superabundance of convict labour into this island, must naturally be, first, to check free immigration; and secondly, to drive away those who have actually established themselves on it as their second home, and may perhaps have abandoned comfort in England in hopes of affluence there. So great is the number actually leaving the place every year, that it is calculated that in six years, at the same ratio, there will be absolutely none left.

COMMERCIAL DISTRESS.

And yet, no further back than 1841, the Legislative Council voted 60,000 pounds to encourage immigration, thus needlessly taxing the colony to aid in producing a disastrous result, which certainly, however, no one seems to have foreseen.

Who, indeed, four years ago, could have believed that, above all other things, there should arrive a glut in the labour market? Such an event was looked upon as absolutely impossible in the full tide of prosperity that covered the island. Everything wore a smiling aspect. The fields were heavy with harvests, the roads crowded with traffic; gay equipages filled the streets; the settler's cottage or villa was well supplied with comfort, and even with luxuries; crime, in a population of which the majority were convicts or their descendants, was less in proportion than in England; in short, for the first time, in 1840 the exports exceeded the imports; trade was brisk, agriculture increasing, new settlers were arriving; everything betokened progress; no one dreamed of retrogression or decay.

In four years all this has been reversed. We now look in vain for the signs of prosperity that before existed. In their place, we hear of complaints loud and deep; of insolvency, of reduction in the Government expenditure; of a falling off of trade; of many beggars, where none before were known; of large agricultural estates allowed partially to return to their natural wildness; of cattle and all stock sold at half their original cost, and of every symptom of agricultural and commercial distress. I may further add, that the funds derived from the sale of Crown lands in Tasmania in the year 1841, amounted to 58,000 pounds; in 1844, to 2000 pounds; and in 1845, to nothing. The revenue, in the same time, has decreased one half; and, to close the financial account, at the end of 1844 the colony was in debt to the Treasury, 100,000 pounds.

REMARKS ON CONVICT DISCIPLINE.

Though many other causes may have co-operated in producing this change, it seems acknowledged by most persons, that the result is chiefly traceable to the disproportionate increase of the convict population, acting in the manner I have already described; and this is itself encouragement to reconsider the system of 1842. But if, as some maintain, this plan has inflicted serious evils, in a moral point of view, both on the free population and on the convicts themselves, there is still greater inducement to examine whether some better mode could not be devised.

I do not intend, however, to enter into the question of convict discipline. It would be beside my purpose to do so; and want of space, moreover, forbids it. But I cannot refrain from observing, that one feature in the new plan--that of congregating criminals during one period of their punishment in probation gangs, almost isolated from the free settlers--seems productive of anything but good. Under the system of assignment, whatever other objections there may have been to it, the convict had at least an excellent chance of becoming a better man, especially when drafted to a pastoral or agricultural district. Whereas, now that the well-disposed and the irreclaimably bad are often brought constantly together in the same class, it is much more difficult for them to regain that self-command and those moral sentiments, the loss of which brought them to their degraded position of prisoners. Having constantly before their eyes the garb and stamp of their infamy, reformation, if not impossible, is extremely difficult. Pass them on the highways at any time; and, in obedience to an irresistible impulse, they will leave off their work to look at you, and the comparison of your dress and condition, with their own distinctive costume and forced occupation, instead of awakening a spirit of hope and a determination to regain freedom, induces melancholy and despair. A dogged and sullen silence soon becomes the characteristic of these men; their features are stamped with the worst passions of our nature; and in many cases despondency is triumphant, and they make no proper or continued efforts to reclaim themselves.

Even when a probation pass has been obtained, it is grievous to reflect that, in numerous instances, except in the single quality of industry, not only has no improvement taken place in the character of the prisoner, but that he has become more hardened and corrupt than when he left England. The horrible scenes of depravity he has witnessed in the barracks whence he has emerged, must have produced their natural effect on his mind. I cannot help thinking that this system of concentration is extremely impolitic. We all know what a detrimental influence the associating of men, punished for an offence comparatively trifling, with others convicted of the most flagrant outrages upon society, exerts upon the former. The experience of our prisons testifies to the fact. Can it be expected, then, that the same agglomeration of bad characters in Tasmania should be harmless? I foretell that this part of the new system will be shortly abandoned, and that at any rate the men will be provided with separate cabins for sleeping berths. The granting the prisoners occasional holidays of a week, would have a great effect in whetting their desire to finally obtain their liberty; and a change or improvement in their apparel, in proportion to their good conduct, would also be very beneficial.

In my opinion, however, the system of concentration is radically defective. It supposes the existence in the breasts of criminals of a principle of action, and a desire of improvement and of a change in their condition sufficiently powerful to enable them to resist the temptations to vice held out by habitual intercourse with the depraved. No doubt there are individuals to be found, even among those who have incurred the penalty of banishment from their native country, of firm character and strong sympathy for virtue; but the majority must of course consist of men almost incapable of resisting momentary impulses, of weak or perverted understandings, of strong animal passions, naturally or from habit averse to what is good, and prone to that which is bad. In such cases association must inevitably be pernicious; and pardon can only be obtained by comparative, not absolute reformation. By the dispersion of convicts, under the assignment system or otherwise, the effects of evil communication will be guarded against, and those of intercourse with the virtuous and the honest substituted.