Chapter II: Introduction: vi

I PREPARING FOR THE BIG BEND 1

II UP HORSE THIEF CREEK 20

III AT THE GLACIER 48

IV THE LAKE OF THE HANGING GLACIERS 63

V CANAL FLATS TO BEAVERMOUTH 77

VI THROUGH SURPRISE RAPIDS 92

VII KINBASKET LAKE AND RAPIDS 134

VIII BOAT ENCAMPMENT TO REVELSTOKE 160

IX REVELSTOKE TO THE SPOKANE 192

X RAFTING THROUGH HELL GATE 235

XI BY LAUNCH THROUGH BOX CANYON 267

XII CHELAN TO PASCO 286

XIII PASCO TO THE DALLES 323

XIV THE HOME STRETCH 360

ILLUSTRATIONS

Mt. Sir Donald, which drains from all sides to the Columbia
_Frontispiece_

FACING PAGE

Mt. Assiniboine, near the headwaters of the Columbia 10

Twin Falls, Takakaw Falls, two great cataracts of the
Columbia watershed 11

The "turning-in" scene shot in silhouette 38

"Reverse" of the "going-to-bed" shot 38

On the Horse Thief Trail 39

A dead-fall on the trail 39

Looking toward the entrance of the ice cave 52

Where the Hanging Glacier is about to fall 53

My shower bath in an ice cave 58

Warming up after my glacial shower bath 58

Ross and Harmon. Dragon moraine in distance 59

The horses in the mouth of the ice cave 59

Looking across the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers 66

The Lake of the Hanging Glaciers, taken from the ice
walls, looking north 67

The face of the Hanging Glacier 72

Where my party foregathered with Harmon's on the shore
of the Lake of the Hanging Glacier 73

Old Hudson Bay cart at Beavermouth 80

My first push-off at the head of canoe navigation on the
Columbia 80

Opening scene of the "Farmer" picture 81

Old stern wheelers at Golden 81

A quiet stretch of the Columbia near Golden 81

Arrival of our boat at Beavermouth 96

Our first camp at Beavermouth 96

The remains of a sunken forest 96

Trapper's cabin where we found shelter for the night 97

Where we landed above Surprise Rapids 97

Where we tied up at "Eight mile" 97

"Shooting" the first bit of lining at Surprise Rapids 122

The camp where the roar of the rapids deafened us 122

Where Steinhof was drowned 122

Where Andy just missed drowning in Surprise Rapids 123

Looking through the pines at Surprise Rapids 123

Head of second fall of Surprise Rapids 123

Blackmore and the ling that refused to "register" 142

The winter, with pike-pole just before lining Death Rapids 142

Andy and I pulling down Kinbasket Lake 143

Our wettest camp, at Kinbasket Lake 156

The old ferry tower above Canoe River 156

Where we tied up at Kinbasket Lake 157

The bridge which the Columbia carried a hundred miles and
placed across another stream 157

Lining down to the head of Death Rapids 157

Trapper's cabin being undermined by stream 168

The camp above Twelve-Mile 168

Landing at sunset above Canoe River 169

Andy and Blackmore swinging the boat into the head of
Rock Slide Rapids 169

The big rollers, from 15 to 20 feet from hollow to crest, at
head of Death Rapids 169

Looking across to Boat Encampment 180

"Wood smoke at twilight" above Twelve-Mile 180

Lining down Rock Slide Rapids 181

When the Columbia took half of my riding breeches 181

Bonnington Falls of the Kootenay 198

Plastered log cabin in the Doukhobor village 198

Trucking the skiff through Kettle Falls 199

Twilight in the gorge at Kettle Falls 199

Waiting for the fog to lift above Bishop's Rapids 210

Ross and Armstrong registering "gloom" 210

The "intake" at the Little Dalles 211

Where we started to line the Little Dalles 211

Map of the Upper Columbia 236

A "close-up" of Ike building his raft 237

My fifty pound salmon 237

Ike riding a log 256

Ike on the mooring line of the raft 256

Raft in tow of launch near mouth of San Poil 257

Ike at the sweep below Hell Gate 257

The suspension bridge at Chelan Falls 270

Old River veterans on the landing at Potaris. (Capt. McDermid
on left, Ike Emerson on right) 270

Night was falling as we headed into Box Canyon 271

The Columbia above Box Canyon 271

A rocky cliff near head of Lake Chelan 288

Rainbow Falls, 350 feet high, above head of Lake Chelan 288

Wenatchee under the dust cloud of its speeding autos 289

Head of Rock Island Rapids 289

The picture that cost me a wetting 310

The wreck of the "Douglas" 310

We cooked our breakfast in the galley of the wreck of the
"Douglas" 311

A rocky cliff above Beverly 311

Lifted drawbridge on Celilo Canal 354

Tumwater Gorge of the Grand Dalles 354

"Imshallah" in the lock at Five-Mile 355

"Imshallah" half way through the Celilo Canal 355

Palisade Rock, lower Columbia River 362

Multnomah Falls, Columbia River Highway, near Portland 363

City of Portland with Mt. Hood in the distance 370

Bridge on Columbia Highway near Portland, Oregon 371

DOWN THE COLUMBIA

DOWN THE COLUMBIA