Chapter III

WOLVERHAMPTON TO STAFFORD, Fifteen Miles.

[Picture: Bushbury Hill and Church]

ON quitting the station at Wolverhampton a good view is obtained of the town and fine old Church, with the hills of Rowley Regis in the distance. Tettenhall Wood and the Clee Hills soon add to the beauty of the southward view; and the line is skirted by fine trees and fresh verdant meadows, over which a peep of the distant landscape is gained at intervals. Show Hill, and Low Hill houses are pleasantly situated on the ridge of a hill to the E., and beyond them appears Bushbury Hill, a point of the same elevation, with its old village Church, built about 1460; this is perhaps the most pleasing part of the line we have yet traversed. The Wrekin appears in the distance to the W., and nearer, the lofty and tapering spire of Brewood (or Brood) Church, rises from its girdling woods. Moseley Court, the ancient seat of J. G. Whitgreave, Esq., lies E. of the line, whence but little of the house is visible, being surrounded by stately oak groves. In this venerable mansion, Charles II. was temporarily concealed, when on his way to Bentley. Wrottesley Park, seat of Sir John Wrottesley, Bart., Chillington Park and Hall, the noble residence of T. W. Giffard, Esq., and the village of Codsall, form portions of the scenery to the S.W. All this part of the line from Wolverhampton is on an embankment, which, however, does not exceed fifteen feet at the highest point. On the E. appears Hilton Park, seat of H. E. C. V. Graham, Esq., and on the W., Pendeford Hall. The villages of Shareshill and Featherstone, lie E. of the line. A bridge here crosses it, bearing the felicitous name of "Paradise;" happy mortals, to reach such blessed bourne! But our stay is brief indeed; Paradise is left far behind, and we pass onwards under and over many a bridge of great and small degree; for the railroad even renders a common dirty gutter, a thing of so great importance, that a stately and ponderous arch must be erected for its insignificant accommodation! Verily, we grow aristocratic in our indignation at such upstart doings. The honourable fraternity of Ditch, Gutter, and Co., may, with a good grace, quote the old fable, and exclaim, "How we apples swim;" they are marvellously promoted since "an hundred years ago." The Stafford Canal passes under, and the railroad over, a handsome iron bridge, between the village of Coven on the W., and Aspley on the E. side of the line.

* * * * *

The wide moorland called Cannock Chase, lies E., and is for some distance seen from the line. It was in earlier times, a forest or chase belonging to the Mercian kings. In one part, Castle Hill, now enclosed by the boundary of Beaudesert Park, seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, is an ancient British encampment, surrounded by a double trench, occupying about fourteen acres. Near it are the remains of a moat, enclosing an oblong square of three acres, called the Old Nunnery, where a Cistercian Abbey was founded in the reign of Stephen, which was shortly after removed to Stoneleigh, in Warwickshire. Cannock Chase, or Heath, contains upwards of 25,000 acres; in some parts, containing extensive sheep walks.

Four Ashes Station.

Distance to Birmingham, 20--Liverpool and Manchester, 77.5 miles.

DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--

_Place W. of Station_. _Place E. of Station_. Brewood 2 miles. Shareshill 2.75 miles.

IF the reader be a passenger in a mixed train, the diminished speed will here allow him a better chance of observation; and a fine view may be enjoyed on the eastward, of Cannock Chase, with its undulating scenery; and westward, Summerford Park, seat of the Hon. E. Monkton, the little town of Brewood, and the Wrekin. Passing on, nothing of interest occurs until the arrival at the next, the

Spread Eagle Station.

Distance to Birmingham, 21.5--Liverpool and Manchester, 76 miles.

DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--

_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_. Stretton 2 miles. CANNOCK 4.5 miles. Lapley 3 -- Norton 6.25 -- Wheaton Aston 4.25 -- Weston-under-Lizzard 7 -- Blymhill 7 -- Tong 8.5 -- Sheriff Hales 10.5 -- Woodcote 11 -- SHIFFNAL 12 -- WELLINGTON 17 -- SHREWSBURY 29 --

HERE the railroad crosses the old Roman road called Watling-street; the ancient praetorian highway, reaching from Dover, by St. Albans, Dunstable, Towcester, Atherstone, Shrewsbury, &c., to Cardigan; in many places it is scarcely perceptible, while in others it continues firm for several miles. And who can pass such a junction of roads, without a backward glance at past years and events? without a thought of the thousand "changes of time and tide" that this ancient track has witnessed: the millions of human footsteps it has received:--the proud and victorious Roman, exulting in his country's greatness and conquests, and contemptuously spurning the savage natives, whose natural rights he invaded:--the rapacious and desolating Dane:--the wily Saxon:--the adventurous Norman: and now the compound people, we English, who, not content with the ways of our fathers, must needs cross them with our refined and scientific innovations. In sooth, this ancient road were a fitter subject for an epic poem, than a guide-book gossip.

Passing the Spread Eagle station, the villages of Water Eaton and Stretton, are seen on the W., and Rodbaston Hall, with Cannock Chase behind, on the E. The turnpike road here runs parallel with the line for some distance. At Quarry Bridge, a short distance from Penkridge, is a fine quarry of red sandstone, which has furnished a handsome material for several bridges in the vicinity. From hence the church of Penkridge, and the next arch over the line, forms an interesting picture, to which the near arch of Quarry Bridge serves as framework.

[Picture: Penkridge Church from Quarry Bridge]

The church is shortly after passed, on the E., and arriving at the bridge over the river Penk, a lovely view of the surrounding scenery presents itself. The river appears on both sides, winding gracefully along, between meadows and groves; on the E. is the Old Bridge, beyond which appears Teddesley Park and Hall, the seat of Lord Hatherton, with our old friend Cannock Chase in the distance. Westward the eye ranges over the near objects to Preston Hill and Longridge, altogether forming a delightful prospect.

[Picture: Penkridge]

Penkridge Station.

Distance to Birmingham, 24--Liverpool and Manchester, 73.5 miles.

DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--

_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
Bradley 3.75 miles. Dunstan 2.25 miles.
Church Eaton 5.25 -- Acton Trussel 2.75 --
Bednall 3.5 --
CANNOCK 5 --
RUGELEY 8 --
Armitage 10.5 --
Malvesyn Ridware 11 --
Longdon 11.5 --

PENKRIDGE is supposed by Camden to have been the Roman Pennocrucium;
its modern name seems derivable from the river Penk, on which it
stands.

The town, from its low situation, is liable to frequent inundations. It has no market-day, but two great cattle fairs are held here, on April 30, and first Monday in September. The Church was made collegiate by King John. Penkridge contains about 3,000 inhabitants. Quitting Penkridge, the villages of Thickerscote and Silkmoor appear in the distance; and shortly after leaving Acton Trussel to the E., and Levedale on the W., Dunstan Church, appears above the bank of the railway, on the E. The next object of interest is Stafford Castle, the tower of which is seen just before arriving at

STAFFORD STATION.

Distance to Birmingham, 29.25--Liverpool and Manchester, 68.25 miles.

DISTANCES BY ROADS FROM THIS STATION TO THE FOLLOWING PLACES:--

_Places W. of Station_. _Places E. of Station_.
Castlechurch 1 mile. Baswick or Berkswick 1.5 mile.
Coppenhall 2.5 miles. Marston 3.25 miles.
Houghton 4 -- Tixall 4 --
Gnosnal 7 -- Ingestre 4 --
NEWPORT 12 -- Weston 4.5 --
Sandon 5 --
Gayton 5.5 --
Stowe 6.75 --
Colwich 6.75 --
Milwich 7 --
Fradswell 7.5 --
Hilderston 8 --
RUGELEY 9 --
Gratwich 11 --
ABBOTS BROMLEY 11 --
UTTOXETER 14 --
LICHFIELD 17 --

STAFFORD is a borough and market town; contains 8,512 inhabitants.
This place, which is of great antiquity, was anciently called
_Stadeford_, from the Saxon Stade, signifying a place on a river, and
the _trajectus_, or ford, across the river Sow, on which it is
pleasantly situated, about six miles from its confluence with the
Trent.

The entrance from the London road, is by a neat bridge over the river, near which was one of the ancient gates. The houses are in general well-built, and many of them are handsome and modern erections; the streets well paved, and the environs of the town abound with elegant mansions and villas. Assemblies are held in a suite of rooms in the Town Hall, and races take place annually in May. The chief branch of manufacture is that of shoes, and the tanning of leather is carried on to a considerable extent. Stafford is also renowned for its ale, in common with the surrounding neighbourhood. The market is held on Saturday, and fairs on April 5, May 14, June 25, October 3, and December 5.

[Picture: Stafford Castle]

From the year 700, this place has been gradually acquiring importance, and castles have been built and rebuilt by successive princes and possessors. In 705, it is said to have been the residence of the pious St. Bertalin, son of a Mercian king, and we may well imagine a _royal_ hermitage to have formed an attractive nucleus for a future city. Ethelfleda, Countess of Mercia, erected a castle here in 913, and fortified the town with walls and a fosse. It appears to have increased greatly in extent and importance, and is in Doomsday Book called a city, in which the king had eighteen burgesses in demesne, and the Earl of Mercia twenty mansions. William the Conqueror built a castle here, to keep the barons in subjection, and appointed as governor, Robert de Toeni, the progenitor of the house of Stafford. It was rebuilt in the reign of Edward III., and in the parliamentary war was garrisoned for the king, but taken by the parliamentary troops, and finally demolished. The lover of picturesque relics of the olden time, must regret the utter destruction of this, and many other strong holds; but the knowledge, that the iron-handed tyranny upheld by these feudal dens, is for ever gone by with their departed strength, is a glorious and surpassing compensation. Where would be our railroads, if moss-trooping barons and slavish serfs formed, as they once did, the population of England?

* * * * *

The castellated building which now forms so prominent a feature in the landscape on approaching Stafford, is a modern erection, on the ancient site, commenced by Lord Stafford, (then Sir George Jerningham); only one front, flanked by two round towers was completed; these now contain some ancient armour and other curiosities. The County Hall is a spacious and handsome building of stone, occupying one side of the Market-place. The County Gaol is also a large and modern erection, well adapted for the classification of prisoners, who are employed at their trades, and receive a certain portion of their earnings on discharge.

* * * * *

The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, formerly collegiate, is an ancient and spacious cruciform structure, in the early style of English architecture, with a lofty octagonal tower rising from the intersection. The north entrance is richly ornamented, and the interior beautifully arranged, the piers and arches are of the early English, passing into the decorated style. The east window is an elegant specimen of the later English. In the north transept is an ancient font of great beauty, highly ornamented with sculptured figures and animals. There are many ancient monuments; amongst the most conspicuous, are those of the family of Aston, of Tixall. There are two other Churches, one, St. Chadd's, originally in the Norman style, but much and incongruously altered; also, places of worship for the Society of Friends, Independents, Wesleyan Methodists, and Roman Catholics. The Free Grammar School was refounded by Edward VI.; there are also National and other Schools, and a variety of Public Institutions, among which the Infirmary, and Lunatic Asylum are the chief.

* * * * *

In olden times, a Priory of Black Canons existed here, founded in 1151; a small part of whose ruined abode remains, in the shape of a farm house, two miles east of the town. There were likewise, a House of Friars Eremites; a Priory of Franciscan Friars, and other monastic establishments, all dismantled at the dissolution. The most celebrated native of Stafford, is Isaac Walton, the angler, a name well-beloved by all votaries of the (so called) "_gentle_ sport," though there are and have been many who rather think with the Poet, that

"The quaint, old, cruel coxcomb, in his gullet
Should have a hook, and a small trout to pull it."

BYRON.