Chapter VIII

Character of Trimmings of the Nineteenth Century 237
Nineteenth Century. George III--Female 241
Nineteenth Century. George III--Male 246
Nineteenth Century. George IV--Female 248
Nineteenth Century. George IV, 1820-30--Male 254
Nineteenth Century. William IV--Female 258
Nineteenth Century. William IV--Male 263
Nineteenth Century. Victoria--Female 264
Nineteenth Century. Victoria--Male 273

PATTERNS OF VARIOUS REIGNS FROM ANTIQUE COSTUME 276

PATTERNS TO SCALE 283

PATTERNS TO SCALE, DETAILED LIST 353

INDEX 359

LIST OF DESCRIPTIVE LINES TO THE PLATES

FRONTISPIECE _Facing Title_
A Long-trained Muslin Dress, about 1800.

PLATE I _Facing p. 39_
Boots and Shoes from the Fourteenth to Nineteenth Century.

PLATE II " 42
_A._ Elizabethan Robe in Plush, 1585-1605.
_B._ Elizabethan Robe in Silk Brocade, 1565-85.
_C._ Elizabethan Male Robe in Velvet Brocade, 1580-1615.
_D._ Back-piece of Elizabethan Doublet in
Embroidered Linen, 1580-1605.

PLATE III " 55
_A._ Elizabethan Jump (or Jacket), about 1600.
_B._ Portrait of Lady in Embroidered Costume,
between 1620 and 1640.

PLATE IV " 58
_C._ Youth's Jacket of Linen embroidered in Worsted, 1635-65.
_D._ Linen Male Jacket embroidered with Gold and Silk, 1600-40.

PLATE V " 71
_A._ Jerkin--Period James I.
_B._ Lady's Bodice of Slashed and Vandyked Satin, 1635-50.
_C._ Jerkin of Embroidered Linen, 1630-60.
_D._ Jerkin of Embroidered Linen, 1580-1635.

PLATE VI " 74
_A._ Collar and Cuffs set with Lace, 1600-30.
_B._ Embroidered Leather Jerkin, 1620-1640.
_C._ Top of Stocking, Embroidered Linen, 1625-50.

PLATE VII " 87
_A._ Herald's Coat, Embroidered Velvet and Silk,
First Half Seventeenth Century.
_B._ Lady's Bodice of Black Velvet, 1630-60.
_C._ Black Silk Jerkin, 1640-50.

PLATE VIII " 90
_A._ Three Suits--Period Charles II.
_B._ " " " "
_C._ " " " "

PLATE VIIIA " 103
_A._ Suit of Embroidered Silk, 1610-30.
_B._ Three Sword-hangers Embroidered in Gold, Charles II.
_C._ Braided Suit, 1670-90.

PLATE IX " 106
_A._ Lady's Embroidered Silk Jacket, 1605-20.
_B._ Lady's Bodice of Silk Brocade, 1680-1700.

PLATE X " 119
_A._ Black Velvet Bodice, 1600-25.
_B._ Five Embroidered Waistcoats, between 1690 and 1800.

PLATE XI " 122
Sixteen Leather Boots and Shoes, between 1535 and 1850.

PLATE XII " 135
_A._ Lady's Outdoor Costume, 1785-95.
_B._ Costume, Early Eighteenth Century.
_C._ Silk Brocade Dress, 1760-80.

PLATE XIII " 138
_A._ Silk Coat, 1735-55.
_B._ Brocade Silk Coat, 1745-60.
_C._ Embroidered Cloth Coat, 1770-90.

PLATE XIV " 151
_A._ Embroidered Silk Dress with Pannier, 1765-80.
_B._ Brocade Dress and Quilted Petticoat, 1750-65.

PLATE XV " 154
_A._ White Cloth Coat, 1775-90.
_B._ Silk Dress, 1740-60.
_C._ Embroidered Velvet Coat, 1753-75.

PLATE XVI " 167
_A._ Silk Brocade Dress, 1740-60.
_B._ Silk Brocade Sack-back Dress, 1755-1775.
_C._ Dress of Striped Material, 1755-85.

PLATE XVII " 170
_A._ Silk Suit, 1765-80.
_B._ Quilted Dress, 1700-25.
_C._ Silk Embroidered Suit, 1765-80.

PLATE XVIII " 183
_A._ Brocade Bodice, 1770-85.
_B._ Flowered Silk Dress, 1750-70.
_C._ Silk Brocade Bodice, 1780-95.

PLATE XIX " 186
_A._ Silk Brocade Dress, 1775-85.
_B._ Embroidered Silk Jacket, 1775-90.
_C._ Brocade Jacket, 1780-95.

PLATE XX " 199
_A._ Gold-embroidered Muslin Dress, 1795-1805.
_B._ Nine Aprons, between 1690 and 1750.
_C._ Dress of Spotted Stockinette, 1795-1808.

PLATE XXI " 202
Twenty-three Boots and Shoes, from 1800 to 1875.

PLATE XXII " 215
_A._ Linen Dress, 1795-1808.
_B._ Silk Bodice, 1825-30.
_C._ " " 1818-25.

PLATE XXIII " 218
_A._ Muslin Dress with Tinsel Design, 1798-1810.
_B._ Silk Dress, Period George IV.
_C._ Satin and Gauze Dress, 1820-30.

PLATE XXIV " 231
_A._ Outdoor Silk Jacket, 1798-1808.
_B._ Embroidered Muslin Bodice, 1816-1830.
_C._ Embroidered Muslin Bodice, 1824-1825.
_D._ Satin and Gauze Bodice, 1820-30.

PLATE XXV " 234
_A._ Silk Dress, 1800-10.
_B._ Cotton Dress, 1800-10.
_C._ Embroidered Muslin Dress, 1820-30.
_D._ Silk Gauze Dress, 1824-30.

PLATE XXVI " 247
_A._ Morning Coat of Chintz, 1825-45.
_B._ Cloth Coat, 1808-20.
_C._ Cloth Overcoat, 1820-35.

PLATE XXVII " 250
Outdoor Silk Dress, 1825-35.

PLATE XXVIII " 259
_A._ Silk Pelisse, 1820-30.
_B._ Cotton Dress, 1830-40.
_C._ Silk Spencer and Cape, 1818-27.

PLATE XXIX " 263
_A._ Embroidered Silk Gauze Dress, 1820-30.
_B._ Gauze Dress with Appliqued Design, 1825-35.
_C._ Printed Linen Outdoor Dress, 1827-1847.

PLATE XXX " 266
_A._ Printed Silk Bodice, 1840-50.
_B._ Gathered Linen Bodice, 1837-47.
_C._ Silk Bodice and Bertha, 1845-55.

PLATE XXXI " 270
_A._ Embroidered Muslin Outdoor Dress, 1855-65.
_B._ Riding Habit, 1845-75.
_C._ Gauze Ball Dress, 1840-55.

PLATE XXXII " 279
_A._ Silk Dress, 1860-70.
_B._ Gauze Walking Dress, 1850-60.
_C._ Silk Dress, 1848-58.

PLATE XXXIII " 282
_A._ Silk Dress with Court Train, 1828-1838.
_B._ Silk Afternoon Dress, 1872-78.
_C._ Silk Coat and Skirt, 1855-56.

DRESS DESIGN

Plates originally printed in collotype are now produced in half-tone