Chapter I: Part 1

DRESSED VEGETABLES

DRESSED VEGETABLES

_À LA MODE_

BY

MRS DE SALIS

AUTHORESS OF ‘SAVOURIES À LA MODE’ ‘ENTRÉES À LA MODE’
‘OYSTERS À LA MODE’ ‘SOUPS AND DRESSED FISH À LA MODE’
AND ‘SWEETS AND SUPPER DISHES À LA MODE’

The earth hath roots;
The bounteous huswife Nature on each bush
Lays her full mess before ye’

SHAKESPEARE

FIFTH IMPRESSION

LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON
NEW YORK AND BOMBAY
1900

_All rights reserved_

PREFACE.

In ‘Sweets and Supper Dishes à la Mode’ I mentioned I had completed the series, but, like so many of the members of the dramatic art who after their farewell are induced back again, I am making my reappearance in the gastronomic art with ‘Vegetables à la Mode,’ as the public who have so kindly received my former little books are anxious that I should extend the series; and as the _vox populi_ should be respected, I have had much pleasure in culling from the vegetable gardens of the culinary world the recipes printed in this little book, several of which I am indebted for to Madame de Joncourt’s ‘Wholesome Cookery,’ which she has kindly allowed me to use.

HARRIET A. DE SALIS.

DRESSED VEGETABLES

_À LA MODE._

American Yams à la Française.

Cut the yams into slices about half an inch thick, trim into oval shapes, put them into a pan full of water; wash and drain them upon a cloth; next place them in a stewpan with two and a half ounces of butter, and season with salt and a grate of nutmeg. Moisten with a pint of water; put the lid on and let them simmer for three-quarters of an hour, turning them over occasionally, so that they may be equally a bright yellow colour on both sides. Arrange in a circle, and pour the following sauce over them:--

Mix an ounce of butter with a dessertspoonful of flour; put it into a stewpan with a gill of cream a teaspoonful of castor sugar, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Stir this over the fire till it thickens, when it will be ready.

Aiquebelle Fritters.

Pound five potatoes; add a pinch of Gruyère cheese, eight eggs, half a pound of fresh butter, pepper and salt. Beat the eggs well before adding them to the other ingredients. Mix all together very thoroughly. Divide the mixture into pieces about the size of a milk biscuit, and fry in boiling fat.

Artichokes à la Barigoule.

Fonds d’Artichauts à la Barigoule.

Wash and trim three or four artichokes, remove the chokes, and fry the top of the leaves and the bottom of the artichokes in hot lard for three or four minutes.

Fill the cavities with a forcemeat made with two ounces of finely-shred suet, two ounces of veal free from fat and fibre, two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a trifle of marjoram and thyme, half a shalot chopped fine, a little salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel. Mix thoroughly, and work in the yolk of an egg. Fasten a piece of bacon on the top of each artichoke. Bind them with string to keep them in their proper place. Put them in a stewpan, with enough brown gravy to cover them. Let them stew gently till tender. Take away the strings, and dish them with a little of the gravy thickened round them.

Artichokes à la Barigoule.

Fonds d’Artichauts à la Barigoule.

(Another way.)

Parboil some globe artichokes. Strip off the leaves and take out the choke. Make a farce of bread-crumbs, parsley, mushrooms, truffles, shalots, and any savoury meat or game, minced very fine, and seasoned to taste. Put a slice of bacon or ham, two carrots, a bouquet garni at the bottom of a stewpan, and place the artichokes on the top of them; pour over a glass of chablis.

Artichoke Bottoms à la Carème.

Fonds d’Artichauts à la Carème.

(Original Recipe.)

Wash the artichokes thoroughly. Boil them till they are nearly tender; drain them, remove the middle leaves and the chokes, and lay in each a little of a forcemeat composed of six oysters, one sardine, two anchovies, and a few shrimps or prawns or pieces of lobster, all minced finely together, and put into a sauce made of a grated tablespoonful of horseradish, half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a tablespoonful of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of capers, and one gill of white sauce. Let this boil up, then stir in the fish mixture, fill the artichokes, and bake in the oven till tender and done. Scatter lobster coral on the top of each before serving, or alternately lobster coral and grated fried parsley.

Cream of Artichokes.

Crème d’Artichauts.

Parboil some artichokes, strip off the leaves, and press out the edible part of each leaf; remove the chokes, and pass this pulp through a hair sieve. Add a very little onion pulp. Season with salt, pepper, and a tiny dust of cayenne. Mix this with double cream, and steam in a mould very slowly for twenty minutes. Turn out of the mould, and serve with a cream sauce round.

Artichoke Bottoms à la Kaiser.

Fonds d’Artichauts à la Kaiser.

(Original Recipe.)

Cook some artichoke bottoms; season them with a little grated Parmesan cheese. Take some plain round glossy tomatoes and place one on each artichoke; lay some mushroom purée on the top of each, taking care to smooth it well; place each artichoke on a fried croûton masked with the tomato purée, and put them in a deep tin dish, and bake them in the oven (which must not be a fierce one) for about ten minutes. Just before serving sprinkle a little finely-chopped parsley over, and curl an anchovy on the top of each round a sprig of parsley that has been heated in the oven.

Artichokes à la Malay.

Artichauts à la Malay.

(Original Recipe.)

Prepare the artichokes as in Artichokes à la Carème, and fill them with a mixture made of an onion minced very finely and put into a stewpan with half a pint of prawns, an ounce of butter and a grate of cinnamon, half a pint of good mutton broth, and a little salt. Let this stew over a moderate fire for half an hour, then stir in a spoonful of curry powder, and let it stew twenty minutes longer. Strain the gravy into a clean stewpan, add the prawns, and let it simmer again for ten minutes. Scrape a piece of cocoa-nut sufficient to fill a tablespoon into a gill of water, and press it through a sieve. Take half the milk from the cocoa-nut, thicken it with flour, stir it into the curry mixture, toss it over the fire, and give a squeeze of lemon to it, and then put in the artichokes.

Dish them up on a rice mound, ornamented with gherkins and chillies. This is very good cold, and the rice should then be iced and ornamented with whipped aspic jelly and three leaves of the artichoke standing up in the middle of each.

Artichokes à la Gouffé.

Artichauts à la Gouffé.

Wash and trim three young artichokes, cut them into thin slices, and as they are cut throw them into water with a cupful of vinegar in it. Drain them, and season with a little salt and pepper. Make a batter with three eggs, two tablespoonfuls of oil, and two of flour. When all are well mixed, put the slices of artichokes into it, and stir gently for about three minutes, until every piece of artichoke is well covered. Fry in hot fat, being careful that the vegetable is cooked through as well as being browned. Drain from the fat, and pile the slices high in the dish, and garnish with fried parsley.

Artichokes à l’Italienne.

Artichauts à l’Italienne.

Take the bottoms of some French artichokes, put them in a stewpan with some butter, white wine, a little stock, and lemon-juice. When cooked serve up with sauce italienne over.

Artichokes à l’Italienne.

Artichauts à l’Italienne.

(Another way.)

Is similar to the last recipe, only the stuffing is made of fried onion chopped very small, browned bread-crumbs, and grated Parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven.

Stuffed Artichokes à la Béchamel.

Make a savoury stuffing with some chopped herbs, bread-crumbs, a mushroom, a pounded anchovy, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Make this into a paste by cooking it in a little cream and gravy; fill some artichoke bottoms with it, and put them to simmer in a béchamel sauce; serve with fried sippets. The preserved artichokes (fonds d’artichauts) are very good for this purpose, and require very little cooking.

Globe Artichokes aux Fines Herbes.

Wash, soak, and trim all the bottom leaves from the artichokes; boil in a large saucepan of boiling water till the leaves come easily out, and the bottoms are soft. When cold, pull off all the leaves and remove the chokes; put them into a saucepan with half a pint of fines herbes sauce (made of half a pint of good brown sauce, three small onions, two bunches of parsley, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce, two of chervil, four small button mushrooms chopped fine, and a little salt; stew all these for twenty minutes, _but do not boil_), simmer for three or four minutes, and serve very hot with the sauce over them.

Globe Artichokes au Diable.

Prepare the artichokes as for Artichokes aux Fines Herbes, and fill the bottoms with devilled shrimps which have been stewed in butter for three minutes; sprinkle with cayenne pepper, and mask with Espagnole sauce.[1]

[1] See _Entrées à la Mode_ for Espagnole sauce.

To devil the shrimps, take a pint of picked ones and put them into two ounces of butter; warm only, and sprinkle with dry curry powder and cayenne pepper.

Artichokes à la Chef.

Trim the artichokes, cut out the chokes, and stuff them with minced bacon, parsley, mushrooms, and shalots which have been fried in butter. Line a stewpan with slices of bacon, add the artichokes, season with pepper and salt and a bouquet garni. Moisten with gravy, and cook over a slow fire with hot coals on the lid. When done, dish up covered with essence of ham. Essence of ham is made of ham finely pounded and warmed in butter in which a little flour has been stirred, and, when a good colour, moistened with stock seasoned with herbs, cloves, chopped mushrooms, and a teaspoonful of vinegar, and passed through a tammy.

Artichoke Chips.

Wash, peel, and cut into thin slices as many Jerusalem artichokes as are required. Throw them into cold water and dry them. Put them in a frying-basket. Plunge this into boiling lard, and fry a nice light brown. Put them before the fire and dry. Sprinkle with a little salt, and serve very hot.

Jerusalem Artichokes à la Reine.

Wash the artichokes, cut off the end of each quite flat, and trim the other end into a point. Boil them in milk and water, and lift them out the moment they are done; drain, and place them upright in the dish into which they are to be served, and sauce them with a rich béchamel sauce.

Jerusalem Artichokes au Parmesan.

Boil till quite tender sufficient Jerusalem artichokes to fill up some scallop shells; cut them up very small, and mix them up in a little béchamel sauce. Add a little pepper and salt, strew on thickly some grated Parmesan, and over that some bread-crumbs; put little pieces of butter all over the top, and brown them with the salamander.

Asparagus with Cream.

Asperges à la Crème.

Cut up some heads of asparagus; wash and drain them. Melt some fresh butter in a saucepan, warm the asparagus heads in it, and stir in some rich béchamel sauce. When done, serve covered with the sauce.

Asparagus Omelet.

Omelette aux Pointes d’Asperges.

Boil about twenty-five heads of asparagus, and cut the green ends, when tender, in short pieces. Mix with them four well-beaten eggs, adding a little pepper and salt. Melt an ounce of butter in an omelet-pan, pour in the mixture, stir till it thickens over the fire, and fold it nicely over.

Asparagus sauce may be served with it.

Asparagus à la Tod Heatley.

(Original Recipe.)

Cook the asparagus as usual, then lay them on ice or in a refrigerator. When properly cold, arrange them in bunches like faggots, and tie them round with strips cut from lettuces to resemble a binder. Arrange them high on the dish, and pour over them whipped cream in which a little aspic jelly has been mixed. Garnish with croûtons of aspic and whipped aspic. This dish is also very good with simply a green mayonnaise over it.

Asparagus à la Pompadour.

Boil the asparagus in boiling salt and water. When cooked, cut it into lengths three inches long, drain them, and place them before the fire for a few moments. Take one ounce of fresh butter, two yolks of eggs, a pinch of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of vinegar; cook in a saucepan till thick; dish up the asparagus in a pyramid, and pour the sauce over.

Asparagus Rolls.

Cut a piece out of the crust of the tops of three French rolls, and take out all their crumb; be careful that the crusts fit again in the places from whence they were taken. Fry the rolls brown in fresh butter. Then take a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs beaten fine, and a little salt and nutmeg; stir well together over a slow fire till it begins to be thick. Have ready a hundred of small grass boiled, and save tops enough to stick the rolls with. Cut the rest of the tops small, put them into the cream, and fill the rolls with them. Before frying the rolls, make a good many holes in the top to stick the grass in. Then lay on the pieces of crust and stick the grass in that it may look as if it were growing.

Asparagus à la Rustic.

Cut the green part of a hundred good spruce asparagus heads; wash, boil, and strain them. Take three French rolls, cut a piece of the top crust neatly out, pick out _all_ the crumb, and fry the outsides in butter; take a gill of cream with the yolks of three eggs beaten up in it, add a little salt and a grate of nutmeg, and stir well together over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken; put in three parts of the asparagus cut small; fill the rolls with it; put on the tops that were cut off, and with a sharp skewer make holes in the tops, and stick some asparagus in as if it were growing. Arrange them on a dish, and serve very hot.

Asparagus à la Française.

Wash and boil the asparagus till tender, drain them, cut off the heads and about two inches of the white part of the stalks; mince them very small, and mix with them an onion also cut very small. Add the yolk of an egg well beaten, with salt and pepper to taste. Make it hot in a stewpan, and dish it up on a slice of toast, and pour a good sauce over it.

Asparagus Pudding.

Take about fifty young asparagus and cut up the green part into pea-sized pieces. Beat about an ounce of butter to a cream, add to it a cupful of flour, two teaspoonfuls of finely-chopped ham, four well-beaten eggs, a little pepper and salt, and then the asparagus. Mix all well together, and add sufficient milk to make it into a stiff batter. Put it into a well-oiled mould, wrap it up in a floured cloth, and place it in a saucepan of boiling water. When sufficiently cooked, turn it out on to a hot dish and pour good clear clarified butter round it in which two drops of vinegar have been put.

Dressed Beetroot.

Slice a parboiled beetroot in nice round slices, and stew it with small onions in a little cream with a very small piece of sugar, pepper and salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Dish the slices of beetroot with the small onions round them.

Beetroot Fritters.

Cut some boiled beetroot into slices. Take two pieces at a time, place a slice of raw onion sprinkled with chopped chervil, pepper, and salt between them, dip into batter, and plunge into boiling fat. When a good colour, dish up.

Beetroot à la Savarin.

Fry a slice of onion in butter, then mix together half a teaspoonful of salt, half of dry mustard, twelve drops of essence of anchovies, a dessertspoonful of cornflour, a gill of cream, and a gill of milk. Put this with the onion, and boil for five minutes; then slice in a nice-coloured boiled beetroot, and let all get cold.

Stewed Beetroot.

Bake or boil a beet till it is tender, and let it remain till cold, then peel and cut it into slices, and stew it for a little while in some broth or pale gravy. Thicken this with a teaspoonful of arrowroot and two tablespoonfuls of cream, and stir in quickly, as you take it off the fire, a tablespoonful of chilli vinegar.

Beetroot à la Crème.

Peel a beetroot and cut it into slices, then cook it very slowly in white béchamel sauce; season with pepper and salt, and serve.

Brittany Beans.

Cut some onions in thin shreds, scald and drain them. Fry them in butter till they are a nice golden brown; then sprinkle over them flour, pepper, and salt, and sauté them for five minutes. Add some stock and stew for twenty minutes, taking care to stir frequently; then add some well-cooked haricot beans and butter, and sauté together.

Broad Beans à la Crème.

The beans must be very young. Boil them in water with a faggot of parsley and some salt. When done, drain in a colander; then put them into a stewpan with an ounce and a half of butter, some chopped parsley, and as much winter savoury as will cover the tip of a spoon, pepper, salt, and just one grate of nutmeg. Sauté the beans over the fire for five minutes, and then mix in well with them a liaison of three eggs and the juice of half a lemon. When the liaison has become set, dish them up with fancy fried croûtons round them.

French Beans à la Poulette.

Take some young French beans, remove all fibres by breaking off the ends; wash and boil them in boiling water. When done, toss them in melted butter seasoned with chopped chives and parsley; stir in a dessertspoonful of flour, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a pint of stock; reduce the sauce; thicken with two yolks of eggs, and flavour with a few drops of lemon-juice when it is ready to serve.

Omelet of French Beans.

Cut up finely two tablespoonfuls of French beans, stir into them three well-beaten eggs, then add a heaped-up tablespoonful of grated Parmesan, with a little pepper and salt to taste. When perfectly mixed, put the whole, with two ounces of melted butter, into the omelet-pan, and fry a pale brown. The time varies from three to five minutes.

Fricasseed White Kidney Beans.

Take a quart of white kidney beans; if they are dried soak them for some hours first, but if fresh merely blanch them and rub off the skins. The dried ones must be boiled till tender and their skins slip off.

Put them into a saucepan with half a pint of gravy, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a glass of marsala; cover them close, and let them stew gently for about a quarter of an hour; then take out the herbs, add a piece of butter mixed with flour, and shake it till thick. Beat up the yolks of two eggs in cream, put it in, and keep shaking the pan one way till thick and smooth; squeeze in juice of half a lemon, and serve.

French Beans à la Béchamel.

Cut up some French beans; soak them in cold water, and boil in boiling salt and water; when done, plunge them into cold water and drain. Warm some chopped onions in fresh butter, but do not brown them; and when nearly cooked, stir in a little flour, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, chives, and a wineglassful of stock; add the beans, and when boiling thicken the sauce with yolks of eggs and flavour with lemon-juice. This sauce must not be thin.

French Beans à la Crème.

Take a pound of French beans, string them, and boil them in salt and water till tender, then drain them. Beat the yolks of two fresh eggs in a gill of cream and about one ounce of fresh butter; beat all well together, put it into a stewpan, and set over a clear fire. When hot, stir in a tablespoonful of vinegar, add the beans, and let all simmer for about six minutes, stirring constantly. Serve very hot.

Broccoli à la Fermière.

Take three heads of broccoli--one large and two small heads. Put into a stewpan two and a half ounces of butter, and when melted stir in four well-beaten eggs till it becomes of the consistency of cream. Pour this over a slice of toasted bread which has been placed on a dish. Lay the largest broccoli in the middle, and the two smaller ones cut into sprigs and arranged round it.

Fricassee of Brussels Sprouts à la Lucerne.

Take some young sprouts and put them into boiling water with a lump of butter, a little salt, a piece of soda the size of a pea, and a bouquet garni. When they are cooked, take them out and drain them. Have ready some good white stock and rich béchamel sauce--say, half a pint of each--the yolk of an egg, and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice; put all these into a stewpan and stir over the fire till it is all well blended and the thickness of rich cream. Mix in the sprouts, and then dish them up; garnish with fried croûtons cut in the shape of hearts, mask them over with a little Parmesan cheese, and sprinkle the yolk of a hard-boiled egg which has been passed through a wire sieve over the centre of the sprouts.

Brussels Sprouts à la Parisienne.

Trim and boil about thirty heads of sprouts in two quarts of water in which a handful of salt has been placed; when done, strain them, and chop very fine. Then put an onion in a stewpan, cut in slices, with two ounces of butter, three sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of raw ham. Stir them ten minutes over the fire, then add the chopped sprouts and half a teaspoonful of flour; mix all well together and add half a pint of white stock and half a pint of milk. Stir until it boils, then add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; season with a little pepper and salt, and serve with fried sippets.

Fried Brussels Sprouts.

Boil the sprouts, drain and fry them in butter for a few minutes; sprinkle with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley.

Ladies’ Cabbage.

(American Recipe.)

Boil a firm white cabbage for fifteen minutes, changing the water from the boiling-kettle; when tender, drain and set aside till cold. Then chop fine, and add two beaten eggs, an ounce of butter, pepper, salt, and three tablespoonfuls of cream. Stir all well together, and bake in a buttered pie-dish till brown.

Cabbage Jelly.

Boil a Savoy cabbage in water, chop it very fine and pass it through a sieve, and mix it with a little pepper, salt, and butter; mould and bake it.

Cabbage à la Flamande.

Cut a cabbage into quarters, parboil, and then place it in cold water, squeeze it dry, take out the heart and tie it round; then stew it with half an ounce of butter, half a pint of good stock, seven onions, a bouquet garni, and salt and pepper to taste. When nearly cooked, put in a gill of vinegar; and when it is sufficiently cooked take a crust of bread about four inches in diameter, fry it in butter, and put it in the bottom of a dish, upon which place the cabbage and some fried sausages; arrange the onions round. Skim the same, add a little cullis to it, and pour it over the whole.

Cabbage and Rice Balls.

(Italian Recipe.)

Boil some rice with a little broth; cut some onions small, fry them, and mix them well with the rice. Then fry the rice, adding a little water so that it should not thicken too much; when cooked, add a little grated cheese and butter.

Take some cabbages, separate the leaves, put them into hot water, half boil and rinse them. Take each leaf separately, spread the rice thickly on it, and roll it up.

Then take a stewpan and put in some pieces of butter and onions cut very finely, cook them well with a little water; then place the balls of rice in the stewpan and cook them until the cabbage is done. When cooked, sprinkle grated cheese over them, and serve with tomato sauce.

Stuffed Cabbages à la Russe.

Chop finely an onion and fry it in butter, but it _must not brown_; add six chopped mushrooms and two tablespoonfuls of semolina, and warm all over the fire a few minutes, and take it off the fire. Pick the finest outside leaves off the cabbages and place them on one side; cut the cabbages into quarters, blanch and drain them; cut out the hard pieces from the centres, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and spread some of the stuffing between each leaf. Tie up the pieces of cabbage to their original shape, with the large leaves placed round them, and boil in water seasoned with onions, carrots, a bouquet of mixed herbs, and a lump of butter. When done, drain and serve. Serve melted butter in a sauceboat.

Cardoons Boiled.

Cut away the coarse outside of the cardoon, wash it free from sand, lay it in cold water to harden; then boil it in milk and water till tender, drain it on the back of a sieve. Cut each stalk in two; place them in a vegetable-dish and pour white sauce over them.

Cardoons à la Fromage.

String three cardoons and cut them into pieces an inch long, stew them in half a pint of claret till quite tender, add an ounce of butter rolled in flour, and a little pepper and salt. Put them into a china baking-dish, add the juice of an orange, and grate three ounces of Parmesan cheese over. Brown with a salamander, and serve quickly.

Stewed Cardoons.

Take four cardoons, take off the outside leaves, string the white part and cut them about two inches long; wash them very clean, and put them into a stewpan with three-quarters of a pint of veal broth, a glass of sauterne, a small bunch of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt. Cover over and stew gently till tender, then add a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boil all gently till it becomes the proper consistency; add the juice of half a lemon and dish up.

Fillets of Carrot.

Wash, scrape, and cut into slices about half an inch thick, and then into dice-shape, several young carrots; boil them in water for five minutes, drain, and put into a stewpan with a gill of good brown sauce. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and stew till tender.

Carrots à la Flamande.

Boil half a dozen carrots till quite tender; then stamp them out in fancy shapes and stew them in a little good melted butter, with five small onions, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and a little salt and pepper. Serve the carrots with the sauce poured over.

Carrots à l’Allemande.

Trim some small carrots so that they are all of the same shape, that is, the real shape of the carrot, but not too sharp at one end or too thick at the other, and not longer than an inch and a half.

Parboil in water with a little salt; drain. Then place in a sauté-pan with one pint of stock, two ounces of butter, one ounce of sugar, and let simmer for half an hour; then let it boil briskly till the sauce is reduced to a glaze. Roll each carrot in this, and form into a dome of carrots; surround with a rich brown sauce flavoured with lemon-juice.

Carrots à la Windsor.

Take some carrots of equal size and cut the upper parts into even lengths of about two and a half inches, and trim one end to a point in the shape of a cone. Then throw them into salted boiling water and let them boil for three-quarters of an hour. Take them out and drain well. Arrange them upright in a stewpan, pour in _good_ hot gravy to half their height; add a little salt and a small teaspoonful of sugar, and boil quickly for half an hour longer. Dish them up standing upright, and pour over them a good brown thickened gravy with a dessertspoonful of parsley and a little lemon-juice in it.

Carrot Fritters.

Boil a large carrot till tender; beat it to a pulp, pass it through a sieve, and mix with it a gill of cream, two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs and two well-beaten eggs. Fry the mixture, divided into the shape of fritters, in hot dripping, and serve with a good brown cullis.

Carrots à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Scrape, wash, and scald the carrots in boiling water; cook them in hot water, with salt and a piece of butter the size of a small egg. When cooked, remove them, and put them to drain. Mix in a stewpan another piece of butter, chopped parsley, one chopped shalot, and pepper and salt to taste. Put in the carrots, toss them up for two minutes, and serve them with fried sippets.

Curried Cauliflowers.

Boil three or four small cauliflowers till tender, cut them up into little _bouquets_, and put them into a stewpan with some curry sauce, prepared thus:--

Take one sliced onion, a dessertspoonful of good curry-powder, two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of grated cocoa-nut, a tablespoonful of the milk from the cocoa-nut, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a dessertspoonful of chutney; let all these blend and cook well together for an hour, skimming it, and then passing it through a sieve.

Pour this sauce over the pieces of cauliflower, and let all simmer for twenty minutes; dish the pieces up _en pyramide_, and pour the sauce all over.

Cauliflower Fritters.

Blanch a cauliflower, break it into neat pieces, and dip it into a nice thick white sauce; leave them until cold, and then take each piece separately and dip it into batter and fry in boiling butter. Serve hot, with fried parsley.

Cauliflower à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Take three heads of nice little white cauliflowers, some maître d’hôtel sauce in which a tablespoonful of tomato purée has been introduced; put into a saucepan of water a small quantity of flour, and when it boils put in the cauliflowers. When done, cut off the stalks, place the pieces head downwards into a hot basin, and press them gently together. Put the sauce into a dish, and turn the moulded cauliflowers out of the basin on it--which, if neatly done, will give the appearance of a very large cauliflower.

Cauliflower au Gratin.

Choux-fleurs au Gratin.

Wash and boil a cauliflower in the usual way, and when it is sufficiently boiled take it out of the saucepan and cut off all the outside green leaves. Now take a cloth and squeeze all the water out of the cauliflower, and put half an ounce of flour and the same quantity of butter into a stewpan and mix well together, and pour in a gill of cold water; put the stewpan on the fire, and stir smoothly till it boils and thickens. Then add one tablespoonful of cream, a dust of cayenne, and a little salt. Have grated two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and stir rather more than half into the white sauce. Place the cauliflower in the dish in which it is to be served, pour the sauce all over the cauliflower, and sprinkle the remainder of the grated cheese over the cauliflower, and brown the top with a hot salamander till it is a pale brown. This dish should be served very hot.

Cauliflower au Parmesan.

Choose four very small white cauliflowers, cut off the stalks and stems, making them flat, so that they will stand nicely in the dish. Cleanse thoroughly and boil till tender, but not sufficiently so to run any risk of breaking. Arrange them so as to make them look like one large cauliflower, and powder them thickly with grated Parmesan. Make a sauce with an ounce of butter, a little salt, half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, the yolks of two eggs beaten to a cream, and two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan. Mix well together, and stir over the fire; then pour over and around the cauliflower.

Stuffed Cauliflower.

Boil a cauliflower till cooked, but not so soft as to fall to pieces. With a sharp knife remove a small part of the heart of the flower; fill the vacuum with a stuffing of the chopped heart, and four cooked mushrooms seasoned with cayenne. Make a good white sauce, mix in some grated Parmesan cheese, pour over the cauliflower, and serve very hot, garnished with croûtons.

Moulded Cauliflower.

Choufleur en forme.

Boil four nice and white cauliflowers, all of an equal size, in a little thin flour and water till tender; then cut off the stalks and press them, head downwards, into a hot basin; then arrange them in a vegetable-dish, with some of the stalks arranged neatly round them, and pour over them some tomato sauce.

Cauliflower Omelet.

Take the white part of a boiled cauliflower after it is cold, chop it very small, and mix with it a sufficient quantity of well-beaten egg to make a very thick batter; then fry in fresh butter and send it to table hot.

Cauliflower Fritters.

When the cauliflowers are boiled and drained divide them into branches, and toss them up for a few minutes in a stewpan, with butter, pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg. Serve with fried sippets.

Celery with Brown Sauce.

Take five or six heads of celery _with the roots_, break off the coarse outer stalks, lay them in cold water for some hours, parboil them in water for ten minutes, drain, and place them in a stewpan with as much stock as will cover them; add a small piece of glaze, pepper, salt, and a very little flour. Let all stew gently for about an hour. When done, dish up the celery, strain the sauce and pour it over the celery.

Celery with Cream.

Cut the white part of three heads of celery into lengths of about three inches long, boil it till quite tender, and strain the water from it. Beat up the yolks of three eggs and strain them into half a pint of cream; season with a little salt, and put this and the celery into a stewpan, and place it over the fire till it boils and becomes tolerably thick, and then send it to table on toast.

Celery à l’Espagnole.

Select well-grown celery, cut it into lengths of six inches, and blanch in boiling water. Place two slices of bacon in a stewpan and place the celery on these; mix four tablespoonfuls of Espagnole sauce (_see_ ‘Entrées à la Mode’) and the same quantity of broth. Simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Dish up the celery after removing the grease from the sauce, and pour it round the celery.

Celery ‘au Jus.’

Parboil some celery, drain it, and put it into a stewpan; toss it in a little oil. Add some good meat gravy to it and a tomato. Simmer till the celery is quite cooked; then strain the sauce and serve over it.

Stewed Celery.

Cut five or six roots of celery to the length of the inside of the dish in which they are to be served, take away all the outer leaves and green tops, wash the celery till it is perfectly clean; then stew it in good stock till it is tender, and sauce it with either a thick béchamel or a good Espagnole sauce.

Celery à la Villeroi.

Take three or four heads of celery, cut them into six-inch lengths, parboil them, and then dip them into cold water; drain them, and then split the heads into halves; mask them with some thick Allemande sauce, and place them on a dish to get cold. Now roll them in bread-crumbs; and serve Villeroi sauce with this dish.

Cucumbers à l’Espagnole.

Cut the cucumbers into pieces about two inches long and one inch wide, remove the seeds, strew a little salt over them, and let them remain between two plates for an hour or more. Drain off the juice and put them into a saucepan; cover them with good stock and let them simmer gently till quite tender. Drain them, pile high on a dish, and pour some rich brown sauce over them.

Celery Cream à l’Ambrosia.

(Original Recipe.)

Take two or three heads of celery, washing it well and scraping it clean; place it in a mortar, and have ready a pint of good rich cream and pour in half a pint, one gill at a time, over the celery, and pound well together for a few minutes, and then rub it through a clean wire sieve. When it is passed put it back into the mortar, and keep adding cream, about a gill at a time, till all is well blended. Continue this till all the cream is used. Then add half a pint of nicely flavoured whipped aspic. Have prepared a buttered mould which has been decorated with cooked mushrooms arranged in tiers all round the mould, and arrange leaves of chervil fancifully about; pour in the celery purée, and place on ice for some hours and turn out. If any of the mushrooms should adhere to the mould it is easy to attach them to the cream again; place chopped aspic all round the base and on the top, sticking a small piece of the stalk of celery with leaf on it in the centre.

Morels à l’Andalouse.

Cut half a pound of ham into dice, fry them in salad oil, and when a good colour put in some morels; moisten with half a pint of sherry, a gill of madeira, and season with a mixture of a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of capsicum powder, to which add a dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley. Cook for forty-five minutes; then dish up the morels in a pyramid and pour the sauce over, which should be thickened with flour and flavoured with lemon-juice.

Colcannon.

Mix in about equal proportions some well-mashed potatoes and some young sprouts, or greens of any kind, first boiled till quite tender and chopped up. Mash up all thoroughly together; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, a small bit of butter, and a spoonful or two of cream or milk; put a raw onion in the middle of all, and stir over a clear fire till very hot and sufficiently dry to be moulded and turned out. The onion must be taken out before the dish is served.

Turnips and carrots are often chopped up with the greens and potatoes.

This can also be made with parsnips and potatoes.

Colcannon.

(Another way.)

Boil and mash greens, cabbage, carrots, turnips, a shred onion with mashed potatoes--half the quantity should consist of the latter; add two eggs, pepper and salt, and a good piece of butter; put it into a plain mould or pudding-basin, boil for an hour, and turn out.

Fillets of Cucumber.

Divide through the middle a cucumber, remove the seeds and soft part, cut it into lengths of about one inch, trim them in oval shapes and all the same size. Put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little pepper, sugar, and salt, and let them stew till quite tender without acquiring any colour.

Cucumber Mayonnaise.

Put the beaten yolk of an egg in a glass dish, with very little salt, pepper, and a dust of cayenne and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Mix these to a cream, and then add the best salad oil, a few drops at a time, and well stirred till thick. A little more lemon-juice will thin it, and then add more oil till half a pint has been used in this alternate fashion.

Fish served in this is very good.

Cucumbers à la Poulette.

Pare and slice two cucumbers very thinly, let them soak in a little vinegar, sprinkled with salt, for half an hour. Drain, and then press them dry in a cloth; flour them, and put a piece of butter into a stewpan, and when it begins to boil throw in the cucumbers and shake them over a gentle fire for ten minutes, being careful they should not take the slightest colour. Pour on to them some very strong but pale gravy, enough to cover them; when it boils, skim off the fat entirely, add a little salt and white pepper, and when the cucumbers are quite tender strew in a dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley, and thicken the sauce with the yolks of two eggs.

Stewed Cucumbers.

Pare and split into quarters about four young cucumbers, peel them, and then pare them round and round into thin ribbons until the watery part is reached, which part must be thrown aside. Sprinkle these with cayenne and salt, and leave them to drain a little. Arrange them lightly on a dish, and sauce them with very fine oil well mixed with chilli vinegar and a trifle of common vinegar.

Stuffed Cucumber.

Peel a large cucumber, remove a narrow piece from the side and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Fill the cavity with a forcemeat made of lobster and salmon, replace the piece and bind it round with thread. Line the bottom of a saucepan with slices of bacon, put the cucumber upon it and then two or three more slices; cover the whole with nicely flavoured stock; season with salt and pepper, and simmer gently till the cucumber is sufficiently cooked; then take it out, thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, and serve very hot.

Dressed Endive.

Plunge three heads of celery into salted water, having removed the green leaves from them. When well washed, blanch, drain dry, and finely chop them. Put into a stewpan half a pint of good gravy and the endive heads, add a saltspoonful of castor sugar and a little salt, and stew till tender. When cooked, thicken with butter and flour, and stir in a gill of good rich brown sauce with a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice stirred into it, and serve with poached eggs on the top.

Endive Ragoût.

Lay two heads of white endive in salt and water for three hours. Take fifty asparagus, cut off the heads, then chop the rest small as far as it is tender, and lay in salt and water. Take a bunch of celery, wash and scrape it clean and cut it into three-inch lengths. Put it into a saucepan with a pint of water and some mignonette pepper; let it stew till quite tender, then put in the asparagus. Shake the saucepan, and let it simmer till the grass is cooked. Take the endive out of the water, drain it, and leave one large head whole. Take the other leaf by leaf, put it into the stewpan, and put to it a pint of sauterne. Cover the pan closely, and let it boil till the endive is done; add a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, cover the pan again and keep it shaking. Then take out the endive when cooked and lay the whole head in the middle; take out the celery and asparagus and lay them round it, and the other part of the endive over that. Pour the liquor out of the saucepan into the stewpan, stir it together, and season it with salt. Beat the yolk of an egg up with half a pint of cream, which mix into the sauce, keeping stirring till thick, and then pour it over the ragoût.

Endive Stewed with Cream.

Wash four heads of endive thoroughly, pluck off the outer green leaves, put them into a stewpan of boiling salt and water and boil them quickly till tender; then drain and squeeze them dry, cut off the roots, and chop them very fine. Rub them through a wire sieve into a stewpan, add an ounce of butter and a _little_ salt; stir it over a slow fire for a few minutes; then mix in two dessertspoonfuls of white sauce, a tablespoonful of cream, and a teaspoonful of castor sugar. Stir over the fire till thick, and pile up in a dish, and garnish with fried sippets.

Greens à la Hottentot.

Take three onions and one chilli, and add sufficient butter to stew some greens in; fry the onions and chilli till soft; then wash the greens and put them with the butter, onions, and chilli into a stewpan without any water. Season with salt; cover the stewpan and let them simmer gently over the fire till all the water from the greens is dried up. A few prawns added is a great improvement.

Haricot Beans à la Maître d’Hôtel.

Take a quart of haricot beans, soak them in cold water for three or four hours, then boil them in salt and water till tender; drain well, and put them into a stewpan, with three ounces of butter mixed with a teaspoonful of chopped chives, a sprig of parsley minced fine, with pepper and salt to taste. Shake the pan over the fire, but do not stir. When hot, and all well mixed together, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve.

Kohlrabi au Gratin.

Pare and cut a kohlrabi in thin slices; simmer in salt and water for some hours till quite tender. Drain away the water; then coat a china dish (fireproof) with butter and browned bread-crumbs; then put a layer of the sliced kohlrabi with a little cream, then a layer of forcemeat, then another of kohlrabi. Mix some broth and cream and pour in a small quantity.

Strew the surface with bread-crumbs; finish with a salamander to brown it.

Kohlrabi Steamed.

Peel some young kohlrabi and cut it into thin slices. Put some gravy and a small piece of butter into a stewpan and steam them till soft. Have mixed a small tablespoonful of flour in melted butter, and stir this into the gravy till quite smooth; season to taste; boil up, and pour through a strainer over the kohlrabi, which ought to be quite soft. Cover whilst boiling.

A dessertspoonful of sugar is boiled with them.

Laver.

Have some mashed potatoes put upon a dish quite flatly, and cover it with some laver; then another layer of potatoes, then another of laver.

The laver is dressed like spinach.

Laver to Stew.

Stir in a stewpan over the fire two ounces of butter, a gill of stock, a tablespoonful of vinegar, pepper and salt to taste, and a pint of laver. Serve very hot.

Curried Lentils.

Fry three or four sliced onions in a little butter until of a nice brown colour; put them into a saucepan with half a pint of red lentils and one pint of water; simmer one hour; then add a dessertspoonful of curry-powder and a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice.

Stewed Lettuces.

Strip off the outer leaves and cut away the stalks. Wash the lettuces thoroughly and throw them into salted water.

They will be tender in twenty-five minutes. Lift them out and press the water from them, chop them a little, and heat them up in a saucepan, with pepper and salt to taste, and a small slice of butter. Now dredge in a little flour and stir well; then add a small cup of gravy; boil quickly until they are tolerably dry; then stir in a little lemon-juice, and serve them hot with fried sippets around them.

Stuffed Lettuce.

Take four large heads of lettuce, wash well, and boil them in salted water. After they have boiled a quarter of an hour take them out and put them into cold water. Then drain them well, cut them open and stuff with a veal forcemeat, tying the ends of the lettuce round the meat securely. Place the stuffed heads in a stewpan, covering them with gravy, and seasoning with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Put the stewpan on the side of the stove to simmer for a quarter of an hour; then take out the heads (removing the strings), and serve on a hot dish with the gravy poured round them.

Mandram or Dressed Cucumbers.

Take cucumbers, pare them, and chop them in small pieces. Take half the quantity of young onions and cut them fine, add a piece of lemon, a trifle of cayenne, and a glass of sherry or madeira and dessert-spoonful of Chili vinegar. This is very good with any roast meat.

Morelles à l’Andalouse.

Cut half a pound of ham into dice, fry them in salad oil, and, when a good colour, put in some morels. Moisten with a gill of madeira and half a pint of chablis, season with a mixture composed of a saltspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of capsicum powder, to which add a dessert-spoonful of finely minced parsley.

Cook all this for forty-five minutes; then dish up the morels in a pyramid and pour the sauce over, which must be thickened with flour and flavoured lemon-juice.

Green Morels Stewed.

Take some morels, wash them well, cut the large ones in quarters, leaving the smaller ones whole. Put them into a stewpan with gravy enough to cover them, a glass of sauterne, and a little pepper and salt. Cover them closely and let them stew gently for an hour; then stir in a piece of butter mixed with flour and a dessert-spoonful of lemon. Boil till thick as cream, then serve.

Mushrooms à la Bordelaise.

Clean some large fresh-gathered mushrooms, skin and lightly score the under-side. Put them into a china dish and baste them with oil or butter, and strew pepper and salt over them. When they have been steeped in this marinade for a couple of hours, broil them on both sides for ten minutes over a clear fire, and serve with melted butter in which are parsley, young onions, a little garlic (all minced), and the juice of a lemon poured over them.

Mushrooms à la Bordelaise.

(Another way.)

Take some large fresh mushrooms; peel, wash, and drain them; make one or two slits on the top side of the mushrooms; let them soak for an hour in salad oil, salt and pepper. Broil them, taking care to turn them so that each side may be equally broiled. Warm the oil in which the mushrooms were soaked, season with finely chopped chives and parsley; dish up the mushrooms, sprinkle over with a few drops of lemon-juice, and pour the hot oil over them.

Mushrooms au Beurre.

Cut the stems from some button mushrooms and clean them well with a soft cloth and some fine salt, and rinse them in water; drain them quickly. Spread them in a clean cloth and leave them to dry for ten minutes. Put an ounce and a half of fresh butter to a pint of mushrooms and place it in a thick saucepan, and shake over the fire until it just begins to brown; then throw in the mushrooms, and continue shaking the saucepan over a clear fire that they may not burn, and when they have simmered three or four minutes strew over them a little salt and a dust of cayenne; stew them till they are perfectly tender, and heap them high on a dish, and serve very hot.

Croustades of Mushrooms.

Chop an onion very finely; fry it in butter a pale brown, stir it carefully, then add a quarter of a pound of finely-chopped mushrooms; simmer together till the mushrooms are two-thirds cooked. Soak two anchovies; pound them in a mortar with a teaspoonful of French mustard, three tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and add this to the mushrooms. Boil together for two or three minutes, and fill the croustade case.

Mushrooms au Gratin.

Skin, wash, drain, and wipe dry some fresh mushrooms. Cut the stems to within a quarter of an inch, and fill the cup with a forcemeat made of one ounce grated bacon, quarter ounce of shred shalot, a sprig of chopped parsley, a tiny piece of thyme, and pepper and salt to taste. Simmer this for five minutes in butter, and add the yolk of an egg. Stand the mushrooms, well dredged with bread raspings, in a baking-dish smeared with butter, and bake in a moderate oven. When done, serve piled on a hot dish with some rich brown sauce round.

Stuffed Mushrooms à la Lucullus.