Chapter II: Part 2

Ducklings are kept in the cold brooder house until they are six or seven weeks old, when they are transferred to large quarters known as growing houses. It is here that they are pushed for the market until they are 10 weeks old, when they are salable. There is no heat in the growing houses, which are used only as a means of shelter during the early spring months. When the weather is well advanced, the ducks seldom take to the houses at night; they prefer the outside and spend their nights on the ground. The growing houses should be abundantly ventilated, as too close an atmosphere will do more harm in a single night than if they had not been housed at all.

A Pekin duck at 10 weeks is quite large, weighing close to 4 pounds. It is quite as large as a full-grown duck of some of the other breeds. In the space of two or three weeks from the time the ducklings are placed in the growing houses they will be marketed at the weight of 4 to 5½ pounds each. This weight is easily obtained, and when reached the profitable time to sell has arrived, as they then command the best prices. Often a bird kept after this time loses in weight and becomes unprofitable. The growing houses are built after the plan of the breeding houses, only much smaller. They need not be more than 4 or 5 feet high in rear and 1 or 2 feet high in front. Such a house is shown in fig. 21. This and other houses shown in figs. 22 and 23 may be built singly or in rows, with 12-inch boards separating the runs.

SUPPLYING WATER.

As has been previously stated, water for bathing is not at all necessary for growing ducks, but a liberal supply for drinking is absolutely essential to their growth. The food of the duck is such as to require drink when eating, as it is comparatively dry and can not be eaten hurriedly as grain is. When feeding, always replenish the water troughs or fountains with pure, fresh water.

A duck when feeding will eat a small quantity and go to the water troughs, for drink, repeating this performance several times during the meal. Conveniences for supplying drinking water to breeding and growing ducks are varied, and almost any contrivance will answer the purpose. When small numbers of ducks are kept, the simplest method of supplying water is in wooden troughs. These may be built V-shape or with square bottoms. They are shown in figs. 24 and 25.

For smaller ducks, those kept in the warm brooder house, the fountain plan is to be preferred, as the youngsters can not get into the water and become wet or chilled. These fountains may be made of air-tight cans for the reservoir and a tin plate 2 inches larger in diameter than the can. A tomato can and an ordinary tin pie plate make an excellent fountain. Remove the top of the can and punch a small hole in the side about a quarter of an inch from the free top edge; fill the can with water and place it inverted on the plate. The water will run out until it reaches in the plate the level of the hole in the can. The plate will not overflow and water will be supplied automatically.

Some raisers use a pan--a pie plate, for instance--and place a stone several inches smaller in diameter than the pan in the center, leaving a margin for water around the edge.

When large numbers of birds are kept, it is of course necessary that a system for watering be adopted for saving labor. A practical system in use is where the water is supplied by 1-inch pipes and having a cock in each pen directly over the water trough. Fig. 26 shows a diagram drawing of this plan. The flow of the cocks is regulated by having the one in the first pen run very slowly and gradually increasing the flow of the water in each pen. Thus all the troughs will be full at the same time. The pipe should rest on top of the fencing about 2 feet high which divides the runs. This plan of watering can also be used in brooder houses to good advantage.

FEEDING.

The food of the duck is both vegetable and animal in nature. In the wild state it gathers its food from brooks and marshes, consisting of flag, grasses, small fishes, water insects, etc. When the birds are raised in confinement this diet must, in a measure, be imitated to get the most satisfactory results. The duck has no crop, the food passing directly from the throat to the gizzard, and as a consequence the food must be in a soft mushy state. Too much hard food, such as grain, does not agree with these birds and they can not thrive on it. While some raisers use a small allowance of grain others do not, and it has not been proved to be of any advantage to feed it. Soft food is their natural diet, together with grasses, vegetables, and animal food. The proper selection of the food is extremely important to secure the rapid growth of the duck, and the ingredients of the food must be such as will afford a well-balanced and substantial ration. As a whole, it may be said that the rations used by the largest duck raisers are essentially the same, differing only in the quantities used in the mixing. Investigations show the real values of the food to be the same for producing rapid growth and early development. The duckling grows twice as rapidly and is a much heavier eater than the chick, and to produce the best results its food must be such as will be easily assimilated. The various methods of feeding given in this bulletin are recommended for raising ducks successfully.

It costs from 6 to 12 cents a pound to raise a duck for market at ten weeks of age. The cost of feed is from 4½ to 5 cents a pound, and that of labor, etc., is from 4 to 8 cents a pound. It costs from $1.75 to $2.50 each to keep breeding ducks a year.

The three different methods of feeding ducks are as follows: (1) Feeding ducks for market (ten weeks old); (2) feeding young ducks to be kept as breeders; (3) feeding old ducks. The first method, for the sake of convenience and to explain more fully the composition of the rations, is subdivided into four parts, as follows.

(1) From time of hatching to five days old provide the following mixture: Cracker or bread crumbs and corn meal, equal parts by measure; hard boiled eggs, 15 per cent of the total bulk of crackers and meal; sand, 5 per cent of the total of crackers and meal. Mix with water or milk, and feed four times a day.

(2) From five to twenty days old, the following mixture: Wheat bran, two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; rolled oats, 50 per cent of this bulk; beef scraps, 5 per cent; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(3) From twenty to forty-two days old, the following mixture: Wheat bran, two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; beef scraps, 5 per cent of this bulk; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(4) From forty-two to seventy days old, the following mixture: Corn meal, two parts by measure; wheat bran, one part; beef scraps, 10 per cent of this bulk; coarse sand or grit, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

The hours for feeding are 6 a. m., 10 a. m., 2 p. m., and 6 p. m.

Below is given another system of feeding ducks for marketing at ten weeks of age. This system is practically the same as the one given above, differing only in the ingredients used for the first two parts or until the duckling is twenty days old. The method given below is used successfully by one of the largest duck raisers on Long Island. It is divided into three parts, as follows:

(1) From time of hatching to seven days old, feed equal parts by measure, corn meal, wheat bran, and No. 2 grade flour, and 10 per cent of this bulk coarse sand. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(2) From seven to fifty-six days old, feed equal parts by measure, corn meal, wheat bran, and No. 2 grade flour; 10 per cent of this bulk beef scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand, and 12½ per cent green foods (green rye, oats, clover, etc.). Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day.

(3) From fifty-six to seventy days old, feed two parts by measure. Corn meal; one part wheat bran; one part No. 2 grade flour; 12½ per cent of this bulk beef scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand; 12½ percent green food. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed three times a day--morning, noon, and night. Give last feed an hour before sundown.

When ducks are raised for breeders they are fed differently from those intended for market. They are not forced so much as are the latter, and less fattening food is given them. The corn meal and beef scraps are reduced to one-half the quantity used in the above rations. The following is an excellent ration: Equal parts corn meal, wheat bran, green food, 5 per cent beef scraps, and 5 per cent coarse sand or grit.

A ration for breeding (laying) ducks is recommended as follows: Fifty per cent, by measure, corn meal; 15 per cent wheat bran; 15 per cent green foods (cooked vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, etc.); 12 per cent beef scraps, and 8 per cent coarse sand or grit. Mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed twice a day, morning and night. After the breeding season is over and the ducks have stopped laying they are changed from this to the equal-parts ration, as given above for ducklings from seven to fifty-six days old.

MIXING FEED.

The feeding stuffs should be mixed in a trough sufficiently large to hold the quantity without wasting over the edges. First mix the corn meal and bran together while dry; after these have mixed thoroughly, making an evenly colored mixture, it should be moistened with water and mixed to a dry, crumbly state. It should not be too wet or sloppy, as it is then not so good for the fowls, neither can it be handled and fed properly. Warm water should be used when the weather is excessively cold. In a second trough place the green foods, such as cut rye, oats, etc., and dampen with water; then mix the allowance of the No. 2 grade flour with it. Thoroughly mix, so that the flour will completely cover the green stuff. After this has been done mix the flour and green mixture with the corn meal and bran mixture and add the allowance of beef scraps and sand. When vegetables are used, they should be well cooked before mixing in the rations.

The duck raisers on Long Island use large quantities of fish for their breeding stock. This is known as the "fish diet," and is considered as being very valuable to induce egg production. Where fish are cheap they form an excellent substitute for beef scraps in the rations for breeding ducks or ducks not intended for market, but under no circumstances should fish be fed to stock that will be marketed. Fish makes the flavor of the flesh strong and ducks fed on fish will not have ready sales in the market. The fish are cooked by boiling in iron camp kettles until well done, and then mixed, bones and all, in the rations as given above for breeding ducks. When fish is used the beef scraps are omitted.

HOW MUCH TO FEED.

The amount of feed needed each day for young ducks varies as much as does their growth. Their growth averages a half pound a week, and to make this increase of weight each week requires an additional quantity of food over the preceding one. The rule is, feed each meal what they will eat up clean with a relish, and do not allow them to linger over the feed trough. It is better they should have not enough than too much, as they will be in a much better condition to relish the next meal. One thing is considered to be of as much importance as the feed, and that is removing the feed left over and thoroughly cleaning the troughs after each meal. This is scrupulously attended to by successful duck raisers.

One raiser gives, as a generous allowance for one day's ration for one hundred laying ducks, the following: For the morning meal, 35 quarts of the mash, and for the evening meal 40 quarts, making a total of 75 quarts for the day's portion, or three-fourths of a quart to each duck a day. Another raiser allows 400 quarts, fed in halves, twice a day, to six hundred breeding or laying ducks, averaging two-thirds of a quart to each duck a day.

There are many patterns of feed troughs in use, hardly any two being alike. They are simple affairs, the simpler the better, as they are more easily kept clean. The designs given for water troughs are equally as good for feed troughs and answer the purpose very well. Each pen of birds should have two troughs, one for water and the other for feed, built proportionately to suit the age and size of the birds they are intended for. Make them of sufficient length to avoid crowding, so that all the birds in each pen will have ample room to eat at the same time.

OYSTER SHELLS AND GRIT.

Grit in some form is essential to ducks and should be kept before them at all times. Many overlook this fact and do not seem to understand that it is of as much value to them as it is to chickens. The sand used in the mashes tends to supply a certain amount of grinding material or grit to them, but does not fully satisfy them for digesting their food. On a farm where more than ten thousand birds are raised annually, and where disease is practically unknown, it was noted that in every pen there was a box of grit and a box of crushed oyster shells. This raiser states that he considers grit and oyster shells an absolute necessity for ducks, and he attributes the healthy appearance of his stock to it. His birds eat it freely and the supply is never allowed to run out.

KILLING AND DRESSING FOR MARKET.

There are two methods of dressing ducks for market, by dry picking and by scalding. Both of these methods are good and are being successfully employed by the largest raisers. Some have a preference for dry picking and others for scalding, and it becomes only a matter of taste which method is used. When birds are dressed by scalding they should be dipped several times, or until the feathers come out easily. The back should be dipped in the water first. After scalding, wipe them as dry as possible with a sponge and pick the breast feathers first. A bird when dressed for market has left on it the feathers on the wing, the tail feathers, and the feathers on head and neck, as shown in fig. 27. The legs are left on, and the birds are not drawn.

The process of dry picking is considered the simpler of the two methods, and one who is accustomed to the work can readily dress 3 dozen birds in a day. The picker's outfit consists of a chair, a box for the feathers, and a couple of knives, one knife being dull and the other being sharp pointed and double edged, for bleeding. The bird is taken between the knees, the bill held open with the left hand, and a cut made across the roof of the mouth just below the eyes. The bird is then stunned by striking its head against a post or some hard substance. The picker seats himself in the chair with the bird in his lap (fig. 28), its head held firmly between one knee and the box. The feathers arc carefully sorted while picking; the pins are thrown away and the body feathers with the down are thrown into the box. Care should be taken about this, as the feathers from each bird will weigh about 2 ounces, and will quite pay for the picking.

The dull knife and the thumb are used to remove the long pinfeathers, and this should be done without tearing the skin. The down can usually be rubbed off by slightly moistening the hand and holding the skin tight. Often some of the pins can not be taken out without tearing and disfiguring the skin; when such is the case they should be shaved off. Seven or eight minutes is all the time necessary to dress a bird. After the birds are picked they should be carefully washed, and plumped by placing in a tank or barrel of ice water. They are hardened in this ice water and given a rounded and full appearance. They are then packed in barrels or boxes and shipped to market. The first or bottom layer is packed with backs down; a layer of ice is then placed over them, and all other layers are packed with the breasts down, a layer of ice being between each layer of ducks. The top of the box or barrel is then rounded off with ice and covered with burlaps. A flour barrel will hold about three dozen birds. Some raisers use boxes for shipping and have the empties returned free.

DEVELOPMENT OF THE DUCKLING IN THE EGG.

Eggs to hatch must have good, strong germs and must be laid by healthy stock. Debilitated, degenerated stock will not produce healthy and vigorous young. The health of the breeding stock must be promoted and everything done that will assist to increase the fertility of the egg. Comfortable houses, cleanliness, pure water, and above all wholesome and nutritious food, are the best promoters of health. The best stock to be had is none too good, and it is erroneous to send the earliest and best stock to market for the small increase in price, and save the later and inferior stock for breeding purposes. A continuation of this practice for a few years means degenerate stock, infertile eggs, weak germs, and large mortality among the newly-hatched birds.

After an egg has been under incubation for thirty six hours, it will, if fertile, when held to the light, show a small dark spot a trifle larger than a pin's head. This little spot is the life germ and shows the egg to be fertile. From this time the development of the germ into the duckling can be plainly seen if the egg be held to a strong light. On the sixth or seventh day the first testing of the eggs should be made and all infertile ones taken out. The germ is very distinct at this time, and there has been a gradual change going on in the interior of the egg. The little spot has been constantly enlarging and becoming more dense, and little veins are seen running in divers directions.

This is the appearance of an egg with a strong, live germ, which under favorable circumstances will produce a duck.

An egg that is not fertile on the sixth or seventh day will be perfectly clear and transparent; all such should be removed at once, as it is useless to allow them to remain. Another kind of egg often seen is a weak or imperfectly fertilized egg, and shows an irregularly-shaped blood vessel, which had started but lacked vitality enough to continue. Such an egg will not hatch and should also be removed from the nest or incubator. Frequently the germ in an egg will show life when tested on the seventh day, but lacks the vitality to carry it through, and when tested later will show dark, irregular blotches over the surface of the egg. These will not hatch, and should be taken out when noticed.

On the fourteenth day the little creature inside the egg begins to assume shape and show considerable life. It has increased many times in size since it was seen on the seventh day; the red veins have become more numerous and have spread over the entire surface, while the yolk is scarcely distinguishable from the other portions. The pupil of the eye has now become distinct, and the projection of the wings is clearly perceived. The absorption of the yolk has also commenced, and this will continue until the twenty-fourth day, when it will be nearly completed. The egg from this time on will rapidly grow opaque, and at the eighteenth or twentieth day is entirely so. On the twenty-fourth day the duckling is ready to make its way out of the shell, and in forty-eight hours after pipping the shell it will be entirely out.

NATURAL INCUBATION.

Hatching under the sitting hen (generally used for hatching ducks) is what is termed the natural process of incubation. The hatching of eggs by this means has always been followed, and no special skill is needed for success, provided the eggs are well fertilized with healthy germs. Many who raise ducks in large numbers, however, use almost exclusively artificial means; some use both the natural and the artificial, while others use the natural entirely.

Of the natural method we shall treat first: Hens of medium size of the American class, barred Plymouth Rocks and Wyandottes, are considered the best for sitting. Nine duck eggs are about the right number to place under a hen in early spring weather, but when the season is far advanced as many as thirteen are used. The hens should be provided with large, roomy nests, and slatted fronts that can be removed and replaced easily when the hens are fed and watered. The nesting material should be of hay or straw, and the nest should be slightly concaved; in the bottom place a little finely cut hay.

Before the hen is put on the eggs she should be thoroughly dusted with insecticides; the nest also should have a good dusting of the same. Both hen and nest should undergo a thorough dusting several times during the process of hatching as a safeguard against lice. When the ducklings are hatched they should also have their share of the insecticides before they are given to the hen. When a large number of sitting hens are used for hatching, as many as possible should be set at one time, and the ducklings raised in brooders. Hatching with hens may be done on a large scale and the young brooded artificially. As many as five hundred sitting hens are used on some farms for hatching ducks. They are set in small houses or rooms with the nests around the sides in tiers, each nest having its own lattice door. Each day, in the morning, the hens are taken from their nests and fed and watered on the floor of the room. They are taken down in limited numbers, sections, as it were, at a time, and after they have had the food, drink, and a little exercise they are placed back on the nests and another section is fed and watered.

ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION.

The subject of artificial incubation has engaged the attention of the civilized world for generations past; the method has done wonders for the poultry industry and has opened up the pathways to fortunes that might otherwise never have been made. The science of incubation and brooding has been developed wonderfully in this country during the last quarter of a century, and what seemed almost an impossibility then has indeed become a certainty now. There are many thousands of chicks and ducklings hatched by artificial means each year, and the numbers of good machines now being manufactured in this country at low prices make poultry raising a business that almost anyone with a limited capital may profitably engage in. The mission of an incubator is to supplant the sitting hen, and make it possible to hatch a large number of chicks at a minimum amount of cost and labor. That this can be done is proved each day.

For artificial incubation, have a room with a temperature as nearly uniform as possible. Balance the beat in the machines, or in other words, see that the heat is uniform at both ends, and, in fact, all over them. See that each is running steadily before placing the eggs in it, as there is a great deal in starting right. The machines should be run at a temperature of 102° for the first three weeks, and 103° the last week. The eggs should be turned twice each day at regular periods. Introduce a pan of water from the fifteenth to the twenty-second day, no matter what the location of the machine, whether in a damp cellar or in a dry room overhead, in a moist atmosphere near the seashore or in a dry one at an altitude in the country. The temperature may go as high as 101° just previous to and while hatching without injury. Place the glass on a live egg after the animal heat rises, which will be when the circulation begins. This will be perceptible in good eggs the fourteenth and fifteenth days.

Considerable weight has been put upon the ventilation question in incubators by manufacturers and operators, but it has been found that when the egg chamber is roomy, and the eggs are taken out and cooled twice each day, it is not of so much consequence. There is no doubt but that there must be some ventilation in the egg chamber, but from the experience and observation of the writer the value of the subject has been overestimated by many. Some machines have top ventilation, some bottom, and others both top and bottom, and there is seemingly no marked difference in the hatching.

When the ducklings are hatching, the broken egg shells should be removed once in every six or eight hours, so that they will not slip over the pipped eggs, as it would be sure death to the imprisoned ones. Occasionally a little bird is unable to free itself from the shell and needs help; the expert can readily detect when this is necessary. The one point to note in this connection is this: The egg just before hatching radiates a great deal of heat, while the duckling, when first out, being not unlike a little sponge, absorbs it, or in other words, the rapid evaporation which takes place generates cold; so that when the ducklings are out the machine should be gauged one degree higher.

When the ducklings are all out and dried off, the machine will run at least two degrees lower than when they were in the egg. Plenty of ventilation is needed in the machines while hatching. Keep the ducklings in the machine at least twenty-four hours after hatching, when they will be strong enough to be removed to the brooder. The heat in the brooder should be started twenty-four hours previous to use, so that it will be perfectly heated and ready for the ducklings when they are taken from the machine.

GEESE.

STANDARD BREEDS OF GEESE.

=Introduction.=--There are seven standard breeds of geese, as follows: Gray Toulouse, White Embden, Gray African, Brown Chinese, White Chinese, Gray Wild, and Colored Egyptian.

GRAY TOULOUSE GEESE.

=History.=--Gray Toulouse geese (fig. 29) are named for the city in France of that name, where they are extensively bred. In this country they are bred in large numbers by farmers and are fairly well thought of for market purposes. Their flesh is a trifle too coarse and flabby, when compared with some other geese, to be prized very highly for table purposes. They are termed a Christmas goose, as being later in maturing than the others they are just about right at the holiday time. They are fairly good layers, averaging about 40 eggs in a season.

=Description.=--Toulouse geese are more compact in shape than other geese, and are preferred by many for this reason. The head is rather large and short, and they have a comparatively short bill that is stout at the base; the neck is carried well up and is of medium length. They have a broad back of moderate length, which curves slightly from the neck to the tail; their breasts are broad and deep. The body of the Toulouse goose is moderate in length, broad, and very deep and compact, the more compact the better; and in birds in good condition the belly almost touches the ground. Their wings are large, strong, and fold nicely against the sides, and they have comparatively short tails, and stout thighs and shanks. In color of plumage they are a dull gray, without penciling. The head is dark gray and the neck of the same color, which shades to a lighter gray as it approaches the back; the back is of dark gray, while the breast is light gray. The body plumage is light gray, which grows lighter and becomes white on the belly; the white extends back .to and around the tail, covering the fluffy parts. The primaries of the wings are dark gray or brown; the secondaries are a shade darker than the primaries and the coverts are dark gray. The tail feathers are gray and white, the ends tipped with white. Their eyes are dark brown or hazel in color; their bills, shanks, toes, and webs are of deep reddish-orange color.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 20 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose, 15 pounds.

WHITE EMBDEN GEESE.

=History.=--White Embden geese (fig. 30) are considered very practical birds for farmers, and pay well for their keeping. They are nice looking, of large size, tall and erect carriage,, and snow-white plumage. They originally came from Embden, in Westphalia, and have been bred in this country for many years.

=Description.=--The Embdens are not so prolific as the Brown Chinese or Toulouse, 20 eggs in a season being a good average for them. Their eggs are very large, white, and have a very thick, rough shell. In carriage they are very tall and erect, and have fine square bodies. They have rather large heads, medium-sized bill, and a long neck that is carried upright. Their backs are of medium length, and arch slightly from the neck to the tail; the breast is round and full, and the body is large, square, and very deep, and, like the Toulouse, almost touches the ground The wings are large and strong; tail short; thighs and shanks short and stout. Their eyes are bright blue; bills flesh color; and their shanks, toes, and webs are deep orange.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose 10 pounds.

GRAY AFRICAN GEESE.

=History.=--Gray African geese (fig. 31) are by many raisers considered the most profitable of all geese to keep. They grow the heaviest in the shortest space of time, and are ready for market in ten weeks, weighing at that age between 8 and 10 pounds. They are very much like the Pekin duck in this respect, and as compared with other geese give the most satisfactory returns for the least labor and time spent in growing them. They are, according to standard weights, as heavy as the Toulouse and Embden, but specimens are not uncommon that exceed these weights by several pounds. They are first-class layers and average about 40 eggs in a season. This is considered as a low estimate for their egg production. For table purposes they are esteemed very highly, their flesh being fine and nicely flavored.

=Description.=--These geese have a large head, with a large knob, and a heavy dewlap under the throat. These and the Chinese geese are different from the others in the head, and are the only two breeds that have the knob on the head. The bill of the African is rather large and stout at the base, and their necks are long. Their backs are long and flat, breasts round and moderately full, and they have large, long, and upright bodies. The wings are large and strong, and are folded well against the body; the thighs are short and stout, and shanks of medium length. The knob is black and the dewlap of a gray color, while the plumage of the neck is light gray with a dark stripe running from the head to the body. The back is dark gray, the plumage of the breast is gray, and the underpart of body is light gray. The wings and tail are dark gray, and the thighs are light gray. The eyes are hazel or brown; bill, black; shanks, toes, and web are of dark-orange color.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 14 pounds.

BROWN AND WHITE CHINESE GEESE.

=History.=--The smallest of the breeds of geese are the Chinese, averaging in weight from 6 to 7 pounds lighter than those previously named. Apparently their want of size has prevented them from becoming favorites with those who raise large numbers annually, but with those who keep a limited number they are found to be very practical. What they lack in size they gain in egg production, being the most prolific of all breeds of geese, averaging from 50 to 60 eggs a year. In size, aptitude to fatten, and ease of management they appear in no respect inferior to other geese, while the quality of flesh is decidedly superior.

=Description.=--They are exceedingly graceful in appearance, quite hardy, and the young mature early. There are two varieties of Chinese geese--the Brown (fig. 32) and the White. They have large heads, with large knob at base of a medium-length bill, and long, gracefully arched necks. The backs are medium in length, and the breast is round and full; body of medium size, round and plump; wings, large and strong; thighs, short and stout, and shanks of medium length.

The color of head of the Brown Chinese geese is brown; knob dark brown or black; neck light brown or grayish brown, with a dark stripe from the head down to the body. The body is dark brown, breast grayish brown, and the under parts are a shade lighter in color. The wings and tail are brown, and the thighs are grayish brown. The eyes are hazel or brown; bill dark brown or black; and shanks, toes, and webs are a dusky orange color.

The color of plumage of the White Chinese geese is pure white throughout, perfectly free from feathers of any other color. The knob and bill are orange color, as are also the shanks, toes, and web. The eyes are a deep leaden blue.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 14 pounds; adult goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 8 pounds.

GRAY WILD GEESE.

=History.=--Gray Wild geese (fig. 33) are among the best known of domestic geese, and are very generally bred throughout the entire country. They are among the most valuable and practical birds for goose raising, and are prized very highly for table purposes, besides being good layers, hardy, and easy to rear.

=Description.=--These geese have a rather small head, small bill, sharp at the point, and long, slender neck, snaky in appearance. The back is long and rather narrow, and is arched from neck to tail; breast, full and deep, and body long and somewhat slender. The wings are long, large, and powerful, and the thighs are rather short. The head of the Wild goose is black, with a white stripe nearly covering the side of the face; bill, black; neck, black; and back, dark gray.

The breast is light gray, which grows darker as it approaches the legs; the plumage of the underparts of the body from the legs to the tail is white.

The wings are dark gray; primaries dusky black, showing only a dark-gray color when the wing is folded; secondaries are brown, but of a lighter shade than the primaries. The tail feathers are glossy black, and the thighs are gray. The shanks, toes, and webs are black. The eyes are black.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 16 pounds; adult goose, 14 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 10 pounds.

COLORED EGYPTIAN GEESE.

=History.=--The most beautiful of the breeds of geese are the colored Egyptians (fig. 34); they are purely ornamental, not having been bred in this country for any other purpose than the showroom. They are sometimes called the Nile Goose. This goose is tall and somewhat slender, which gives it an elegance of appearance not possessed by any other breed. It can generally be bred in confinement, but is of a most quarrelsome nature, and the male will fight to the death other males of the same species. The males must each be given a separate pen, and mated with the females; it is seldom that any two males can be kept in the same pen.

=Description.=--These geese have a medium-sized and rather long head, a bill of medium length, and a rather small neck. The back is narrow and slightly arched from the neck to the tail; breast, round; body, long, but somewhat small and slender. Their wings are large, and have instead of the ordinary hard knobs horny spurs about five-eighths of an inch long; the thighs are of medium length, and the shanks rather long. The color of the head is black and gray; the bill is purple or bluish red, and the eyes orange.

The neck and back are gray and black; the center of the breast is chestnut, and the balance is gray. The upper parts of the plumage of the body are gray and black, and the under parts are a pale yellow, penciled with black. The shoulders of the wings are white, with a narrow black stripe or bar. The tail feathers are glossy black; thighs, pale buff; shanks, toes, and webs, reddish yellow. The eyes are orange.

=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 15 pounds; adult goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 9 pounds.

MANAGEMENT OF GEESE.

Goose raising is not so extensively engaged in as duck raising, the conditions under which they can be successfully raised being almost entirely different from those necessary for successful duck raising. The duck, being smaller, can be raised in a more limited space than can the goose, the latter needing free range and water, while the former has been proved to do equally as well without water.

While the goose can not profitably be raised in as large numbers as the duck, still it can not justly be termed unprofitable. There are many places on a farm that are worthless for cultivation that could be utilized with excellent results for goose raising. Fields that have streams, branches, or unused springs on them could be turned to good advantage by making them into goose pastures. Many farmers are profiting by this and adding to their incomes annually. The care and attention necessary for raising geese are very small when compared with the returns, and the cost of food is also proportionately small in comparison with the cost of food used for other birds bred for market. A goose on range will gather the largest portion of its food, consisting of grasses, insects, and other animal and vegetable matter to be found in the fields and brooks.

The simplest kinds of houses are used for shelter; these should be built after the plans of those given for ducks, but should be proportionately of larger size to accommodate comfortably the number of birds to be kept. Geese are long-lived birds, some having been known to attain the age of 40 years, while birds of 15 and 20 years of age are not uncommon. They retain their laying and hatching qualities through life. Ganders should not be kept for breeding after 3 years of age; young ganders are more active and insure greater fertility of the eggs than old ones do; besides, ganders become more quarrelsome as age advances.

The feathers of geese are an important source of revenue and find a ready sale in the markets. A goose will average about 1 pound of feathers a year. The feathers should be plucked when there is no blood in the ends of the quills; this can be readily ascertained, as they will then leave the flesh without hard pulling. Almost all breeds of geese are good sitters and attentive mothers, and if left to themselves will make their nests, much as when wild, and hatch a large percentage of their eggs. But hens are now more frequently used for hatching goose eggs; as by taking the eggs from the goose when laid and giving them to hens to hatch, the goose will lay a greater number of eggs than if she were permitted to sit.

All breeds of geese, except perhaps the Egyptian, are to be recommended to farmers who keep a limited number in addition to other poultry and allow them the freedom of the farm, but when goose raising is to be more extensively engaged in, the African goose is to be especially commended. It is the quickest to mature, most prolific, and the easiest to handle of any of the varieties.

MATING AND SETTING.

In breeding African geese, mate two geese to one gander, and it will be still better if pairs are used to secure better fertility of the eggs. Those who contemplate raising geese should secure their stock in the fall, so that the birds may become accustomed to the place before the breeding season begins. The breeding stock should be at least 2 years old, and fully matured birds. When stock is purchased in the fall they should be turned out in a pasture, and no other food than what they gather themselves will be needed until the grass goes down. Their rations should then consist of equal parts by measure, bran, middlings, and corn meal, with 5 per cent of this bulk of beef scraps. They should be given a light feed of this ration in the morning, and at night they should be fed cracked corn. Ten per cent of the bulk of the daily ration should be green foods, steamed clover, and cooked vegetables.

The breeding season begins about February 1, though some geese will begin laying as early as December, then stop, and begin again the first of February. They make their own nests from the straw and litter on the floor of their houses, and will lay from 12 to 20 eggs before becoming broody. As soon as the goose shows an inclination to sit, remove her and place her in a dark box or small coop, and keep her there for two or three days with water for drink, but no food. Then she may be placed back in the yards and she will begin another laying of eggs. The first and second layings of eggs should be set under hens. After the goose lays the second laying she should be confined again, when she will lay a third laying. When she has laid the third laying she should be permitted to sit on them, instead of giving them to hens. A goose will lay from 10 to 15 eggs in each of the second and third layings.

It is recommended that after the eggs have been sat upon for twenty-five days, that they be taken from the nest and placed for about one minute in water heated to a temperature of 104°. Thirty days are required for incubation. After the eggs have hatched leave the hen and goslings in the nest for twenty-four hours; after the young have become thoroughly dry remove hen and brood and pen them in a large, roomy coop for four or five days. When the goslings have reached this age--four or five days--they are perfectly able to take care of themselves. The hen should then be taken from the goslings, which should be allowed freedom to roam at will, but they should always be cooped up at night.

FEEDING AND DRESSING FOR MARKET.

The first feed for goslings is grass, fed on sod; a small allowance of corn meal, slightly moistened, is also given them. Sand and charcoal are sometimes mixed with the corn meal. They are fed on the above food three times a day for a couple of days, when they are given a ration composed of equal parts by measure, bran, middlings, and steamed cut clover or cooked vegetables. This feed is given them morning, noon, and night, until they are 8 weeks old, when they are penned to be fattened for market at 10 weeks old.

To fatten young geese, place them in a pen, not too large, so that they will not exercise too much, and feed three times a day all they will eat up clean of the following: Corn meal mixed to a dry crumbly state, and beef scraps amounting to 20 per cent of the bulk of the corn meal. While fattening young geese they should be kept as quiet as possible; no excitement whatever should disturb them. When feeding approach them quietly, and do not irritate them in the least or they will not fatten, but will "throw out" or grow another crop of feathers. At 10 weeks of age, or when the tips of the wings reach the tail, they are ready for market and should weigh between 8 and 10 pounds.

When young goslings are to be dressed for market they are killed by cutting them in the roof of the mouth, severing the artery, or by stunning them by hitting them a sharp, quick blow on the head. The picker uses a box in front of him about the height of the knees, holding the bird with the left hand and clasping the feet and wings together; he places the head of the bird against the box and holds it in place with the knee. Pick the feathers from the body of the bird, then dampen the right hand and brush the body to remove the down. Leave about 2 inches of feathers on the neck, and also leave feathers on the wings at the first joint. Lay the wings against the body of the birds and tie a string around to hold in position. I lace the birds, when picked, in cold water for an hour or so to plump them; if they are in the water too long they are liable to bleach and become water-soaked. They are then iced up in barrels already to ship to market.

Young geese should be marketed in October. It is best to market all possible before cold weather sets in. It is much harder to dress a gosling in cold weather. The feathers set tighter, and in picking them the flesh is torn.

CROSS BREEDING.

The most satisfactory results are to be had by breeding pure standard-bred stock without crossing. But to those who are partial to crosses the following are considered the best to make: (1) Wild gander on African goose (fig. 35); (2) Embden gander on Toulouse goose (fig. 36); (3) Embden gander on African goose (fig. 37), and (4) Embden gander on White China goose. These crosses will give good growth and the young birds will dress well for market. Crosses should only be made for market purposes, and should always be bred from original stock.

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FARMERS' BULLETINS.

These bulletins are sent free of charge to any address upon application to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Only the following are available:

No. 15.--Some Destructive Potato Diseases: What They Are and How
to Prevent Them. No. 16.--Leguminous Plants for Green Manuring
and for Feeding. No. 18.--Forage Plants for the South. No.
19.--Important Insecticides: Directions for their Preparation and
Use. No. 21.--Barnyard Manure. No. 22.--Feeding Farm Animals. No.
23.--Foods: Nutritive Value and Cost. No. 24.--Hog Cholera and
Swine Plague. No. 25.--Peanuts: Culture and Uses. No. 26.--Sweet
Potatoes: Culture and Uses. No. 27.--Flax for Seed and Fiber. No.
28.--Weeds; and How to Kill Them. No. 29.--Souring of Milk and Other
Changes in Milk Products. No. 30.--Grape Diseases on the Pacific
Coast. No. 31.--Alfalfa, or Lucern. No. 32.--Silos and Silage. No.
33.--Peach Growing for Market. No. 34.--Meats: Composition and
Cooking. No. 35.--Potato Culture. No. 36.--Cotton Seed and Its
Products. No. 37.--Kafir Corn: Characteristics, Culture, and Uses.
No. 38.--Spraying for Fruit Diseases. No. 39.--Onion Culture. No.
40.--Farm Drainage. No. 41.--Fowls: Care and Feeding. No. 42.--Facts
About Milk. No. 43.--Sewage Disposal on the Farm. No. 44.--Commercial
Fertilizers. No. 45.--Some Insects Injurious to Stored Grain. No.
46.--Irrigation in Humid Climates. No. 47.--Insects Affecting
the Cotton Plant. No. 48.--The Manuring of Cotton. No. 49.--Sheep
Feeding. No. 50.--Sorghum as a Forage Crop. No. 51.--Standard
Varieties of Chickens. No. 52.--The Sugar Beet. No. 53.--How to
Grow Mushrooms. No. 54.--Some Common Birds in Their Relation to
Agriculture. No. 55.--The Dairy Herd: Its Formation and Management.
No. 56.--Experiment Station Work--I. No. 57.--Butter Making on the
Farm. No. 58.--The Soy Bean as a Forage Crop. No. 59.--Bee Keeping.
No. 60.--Methods of Curing Tobacco. No. 61.--Asparagus Culture. No.
62.--Marketing Farm Produce. No. 63.--Care of Milk on the Farm.
No. 64.--Ducks and Geese. No. 65.--Experiment Station Work--II.
No. 66.--Meadows and Pastures. No. 67.--Forestry for Farmers. No.
68.--The Black Rot of the Cabbage. No. 69.--Experiment Station
Work--III. No. 70.--The Principal Insect Enemies of the Grape. No.
71.--Some Essentials of Beef Production. No. 72.--Cattle Ranges of
the Southwest. No. 73.--Experiment Station Work--IV. No. 74.--Milk
as Food. No. 75.--The Grain Smuts. No. 76.--Tomato Growing. No.
77.--The Liming of Soils. No. 78.--Experiment Station Work--V. No.
79.--Experiment Station Work--VI. No. 80.--The Peach Twig-borer--an
Important Enemy of Stone Fruits. No. 81.--Corn Culture in the
South. No. 82.--The Culture of Tobacco. No. 83.--Tobacco Soils.
No. 84.--Experiment Station Work--VII. No. 85.--Fish as Food. No.
86.--Thirty Poisonous Plants. No. 87.--Experiment Station Work--VIII.
No. 88.--Alkali Lands. No. 89.--Cowpeas.

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Transcriber Note

Minor typos may have been corrected. Illustrations were repositioned to avoid splitting paragraphs.

End of Project Gutenberg's USDA Farmers’ Bulletin No. 64, by George E. Howard