Chapter I: Front Matter

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

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Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.

DYES _and_ DYEING

BY

CHARLES E. PELLEW

_Formerly Adjunct Professor of Chemistry
at Columbia University_

NEW YORK
ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY
1918

COPYRIGHT, 1913, BY
McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY

COPYRIGHT, 1918, BY
ROBERT M. McBRIDE & COMPANY

New and enlarged edition
Published, January, 1918

CONTENTS

PAGE

CHAPTER I—INTRODUCTION 5

Dyes of the Ancients—Dyes of Our Ancestors—Animal, Vegetable and
Mineral Dyes—Outfit for Practical Dyeing.

CHAPTER II—MODERN DYESTUFFS 40

Discovery of the Aniline or Coal-Tar Colors—Their Properties and
Uses—How Obtained—How Named—Classification of Coal-Tar Colors for
Craftsmen.

CHAPTER III—THE DIRECT COTTON OR SALT COLORS 53

Discovery, Properties and Uses of the Salt Colors; with Lists of
Selected Dyestuffs, and Dying Directions for Cotton and Linen—
Fastness to Light and Washing—After-treatment.

CHAPTER IV—THEORY AND PRACTICE OF COLOR DYEING 71

Even and Shaded Dyeing with the Primary Colors—Experiments with
Secondary Colors—Matching Shades.

CHAPTER V—THE SULPHUR COLORS 85

Discovery—Properties and Uses of the Sulphur Colors—List of
Selected Dyestuffs, and Dyeing Directions for Cotton and Linen.

CHAPTER VI—THE INDIGO OR VAT COLORS 91

Natural and Synthetic Indigo—Properties and Application—Vat Dyeing,
Old and Modern—Dyeing Directions—The Modern Vat Colors—Their
Properties and Uses—Selected Dyestuffs—Fastness to Light and
Washing—Dyeing Directions for Cotton, Linen and Silk.

CHAPTER VII—THE BASIC COLORS 108

History, Properties, and Application to Cotton, Wool, Silk,
etc.—Disadvantages—Not Fast to Light—Dyeing Directions for Straw,
Raffia, etc.

CHAPTER VIII—THE ACID COLORS 123

History, Properties, Uses, and List of Selected Dyestuffs—Dyeing
Directions for Wool.

CHAPTER IX—DYEING FEATHERS 131

The Dye-bath—The Dyeing Method—The Finishing Process—Dry and
Wet Starching—Dyeing in the Starch—Black Dyeing of Feathers—
Painting Feathers.

CHAPTER X—LEATHER AND LEATHER DYEING 141

History—Preparation of Leather—Oil, Mineral and Bark Tanning—
Dyeing, Staining and Finishing Leather.

CHAPTER XI—SILK I 156

History, Origin and Varieties of Silk—Preparing Silk for Dyeing—
Piece Dyeing—Skein Dyeing—Dyeing Wild Silks.

CHAPTER XII—SILK II 168

Black Dyeing of Silk—Coal-Tar Colors—Logwood—Weighting of Silk—
Properties and Tests for Weighted Silk—Dyeing Silk with Colors
Fast to Washing.

CHAPTER XIII—IMITATION AND ARTIFICIAL SILK 181

History, Preparation and Properties of Mercerized Cotton—History,
Preparation and Properties of Artificial Silk—Precautions to be
Taken in Dyeing and Finishing.

CHAPTER XIV—TIED AND DYED WORK 192

As Used in South America, India, Philippines and U.S.—Variations
in Tying Process—How Dyed—Tied and Discharged Work.

CHAPTER XV—STENCILS AND STENCILLING 211

Japanese Practice—U.S. Practice—Knives, Brushes, Paper, etc.—
Colors for Leather, Silk, and Cotton—Stencilling with Aniline
Black Paste.

CHAPTER XVI—RESIST AND DISCHARGE STENCILLING 228

Japanese Practice—Resist Paste and the Sulphur Colors—Discharge
Stencilling with Bleaching Powder and Hydrosulphite.

CHAPTER XVII—BATIK OR WAX RESIST 241

Javanese Practice—Modern Practice and Apparatus—Dyeing of Batiked
Goods—Use of Batik Process on Cotton, Linen, Silk, Leather, Wood,
Bone, etc.