Chapter VI: Voyage to Liberia (2)

_21st._ My dear Eli is not able to sit up much, which saddens me.

_25th._ But little progress. I do not feel much anxiety but for my dear Eli, who seems failing every day from loss of appetite and want of things to make him comfortable, and for the poor emigrants, many of whom suffer from the same causes.

_26th._ This evening there is quite an excitement on board. My Eli discovered land; the captain thinks it may be Grand Cape Mount. The captain just called us on deck and a novel scene presented itself. Our ship seemed gliding through a stream of liquid fire, while each crested wave shed a beautiful silver light amid sparkling gems that bespangled the whole face of the deep. Thinking we might soon reach land, it seemed right to have another opportunity with the emigrants, which we obtained this P. M. We felt an impression that some one present would soon be taken home to rest in Jesus. It proved a satisfactory season, thankfully received by them.

_28th._ This morning early we were saluted with the joyful intelligence that we were near Cape Mesurado. We hastened on deck, and once more beheld the "dark green robes of earth," which never seems so lovely as after a sea-voyage. The noble promontory is nearly covered with a thick forest, interwoven with luxuriant vines that hang in rich drapery from the branches of the trees, and the stately palm tree rears its lofty head high in air, like some tall cliff. It was Nature in her chastest charms arrayed. Soon my thoughts were diverted from this deeply interesting scene to one as novel as can well be imagined. The native canoes appeared, manned by natives without clothing. Soon the water seemed almost alive with them, and the air rang with strange sounds. We made ready to go on shore. I cannot describe my feelings at this moment, but, like Peter, I thought that I must call nothing common or unclean that God had cleansed. The captain, dear Eli, and I were soon seated in one of our boats manned by natives, and in a few minutes passed the bar in safety and reached the city of Monrovia, just in rear of the cape, and with grateful emotions set our feet on the shores of Africa.

B. V. R. James welcomed us to the shore, and kindly invited us to go to his house and refresh ourselves. We proceeded up a gentle ascent through the city as far as his house--were pleasantly received; took breakfast and dined with them. Called on President Roberts and his wife, who received us cordially; delivered our papers and letters; they kindly invited us to call again and make our home with them if agreeable. Called also at James B. McGill's, a very interesting family, and returned before nightfall to our floating home. It has been a fine day, though in the midst of the rainy season.

_29th._ Just returned from shore; had a pleasant day and a delightful walk. Took breakfast at James McGill's, who with his pleasant wife entertained us very cheerfully. Dined with Beverly Wilson, a Methodist minister, who with his wife interested us highly. Visited the Alexander high school, B. V. R. James teacher. It contained seventy scholars, fifty of whom were present. They reflected credit on their competent teacher by their advancement and circumspect demeanor. We thought them as good scholars as those of the same age in America. We imparted some religious instruction and suggested some trifling improvements, with which the pious teacher and pupils seemed pleased. One is our Master, even Christ, and all we are brethren.

_30th._ Morning rainy; dear Eli has been ashore; thinks the place increases in interest every time he visits it. He has made two appointments for to-morrow, one at the Methodist and one at the Baptist house.

_31st, First day._ Morning rainy, but we thought best to try and meet our appointments. Arrived in time, but got somewhat wet; changed clothes. We felt it to be no ordinary occasion as we passed through the throng to our seats and then mingled in sweet and sacred communion for the first time with dear brethren and sisters in a distant land, for whose souls we had long borne the burden of a dying Saviour's love. The silence was impressive, and the streams of that river that gladdens the heritage of God circulated sweetly through the assembly. The holy fervor of gospel love filled our hearts to the great abasedness of the creature. Ability was given us to show forth that living faith that works by love to the purifying of the heart, and to point out the difference between this saving faith and a dead faith that the world and its spirit will overcome. We were melted together as the heart of one man. The Lord reigned gloriously. At the close of this solemnity the people wished to get our hands, giving demonstrations of great joy at meeting us, and bidding us welcome to their shores with great blessing. Dined at James B. McGill's. Our afternoon meeting was increasingly interesting. We were led to explain the nature of that worship which only can be acceptable to God. Returned to our ship with the testimony sealed upon our heads. Not unto us, but unto Thy great Name, be all the honor.

_9th mo. 1st._ Morning rainy; had to remain in the packet; evening more pleasant. Passed our time in writing, reading, etc.

_9th mo. 2d, Third day._ Morning rainy; dear E. went ashore. He seems quite improved, which is very cheering. We feel quite at home on board, though far away dwell the hearts bound to us by the tenderest ties.

_3d._ We went on shore and called on Sarah Smith, a pious colored woman who keeps a place of refreshment; then called on President Roberts and wife, and had a very interesting conversation on several subjects relative to the interest and welfare of the republic. The President was truly courteous and affable. In his manner there is an elegant simplicity adorned with Christian piety. He said, "I am truly thankful the Lord has sent you here, and for your prayers for us in your native land." His wife's highest ornament is piety, which is sweetly cherished in her gentle heart. After dinner, accompanied by the President and his wife, we repaired to the Presbyterian place of worship (a previous appointment). The house was crowded, but orderly and still. It was given us to deal very plainly with the people.

_4th._ Raining; dear E. went on shore and visited a native town, with which he was much interested. I felt the privation of remaining in the ship; I was somewhat impatient at being confined in my cage-like cabin. The deck being very wet, I was somewhat circumscribed, but in settling up the day's accounts I did not feel fully satisfied, and my earnest prayer is that I may keep my mind stayed on the Lord.

_5th._ Just returned from shore; have enjoyed the day much. Visited a private school taught by Georgianna Johnson, and suggested some improvements. Called on President Roberts and wife (they being directors of two or more female benevolent societies) to obtain their consent to meet those societies at their own time and place. We met them the following day, and had a very interesting conference. Suggested some improvements, such as ameliorating the condition of those immigrants, many of whom are destitute of employment or not willing to work, who lead a wretched life of indolence and consequently vice. The President said that it was a source of much solicitude to himself; he was fearful of the continuance of this state of things. We suggested a house of industry. This struck him pleasantly as the very antidote needed. Called at George R. Ellis's, who is a magistrate. We were kindly received.

_6th._ Went on shore; had a very interesting opportunity with the Ladies' Association (some of the most intelligent females in Liberia). They managed their business in a correct and orderly manner, and by their records and accounts show that they are doing much for suffering humanity here. The emancipated slaves are sent here nearly penniless, except their portion of land, which is an unbroken forest, and six months' provisions, which are exhausted during the process of acclimating. The fever reduces them much. It is the judgment of the most intelligent residents of Liberia that it is best for the immigrants soon after their arrival to take up their farms and work a small portion of each day, clearing their land and planting sweet potatoes, and with the abundance of fruit growing around them they could live comfortably. This has been tried by some, and far less die. With the fever much depends on keeping up the courage; there is but little chance for those who abandon exercise.

_7th._ We went on shore at an early hour; took breakfast at Uriah McGill's. Went to a First-day school containing ninety-four children, twenty-five of whom are natives; the latter are not able to read the Bible. At half-past two attended a meeting for the children. The Baptist house, being the largest, was selected, and was well filled; they were orderly and attentive. I trust impressions were made that will never be effaced.

_8th._ E. went on shore. In the afternoon he returned with our valued friend James B. McGill and two colored ladies, with their servants, the latter going to Greenville, Sinon county. We left the shores of Monrovia with a comfortable evidence that our labors were acceptable to Him who had sent us forth. We were quite cheered with the prospect of saying that we had personal acquaintances in Liberia.

_9th._ Anchored in Bassa Cove. Thank God for the blessings and mercies that have attended us on this embassy of love!

_11th._ Came to anchor off Greenville.

_13th._ Went on shore and made arrangements for meetings--in the morning at the Baptist house, in the afternoon at the Presbyterian. The Methodist minister cordially invited us to attend the afternoon sitting of the quarterly meeting, saying the meeting should be at our disposal to worship in our own way. We were refreshed in the Lord.

_First day, 14th._ Had good meetings. At the Presbyterian house many stood about, not able to get inside. We were blessed together in heavenly places. Dined at Judge Murray's.

_Second day, 15th._ Set sail for Cape Palmas; anchored on account of head winds. I fear we cannot visit the town, Settra Kroo.

_16th._ We are in sight of Settra Kroo still. May the Lord keep us in safety!

_17th._ At anchor off Nasma Kroo; went on shore; called at the only two colonist houses there, then visited the native village. Here a strange scene presented itself: the females were entirely naked, except a small covering about the loins, mothers with their naked infants on their backs, from one month old and upward; lasses with their skin painted indelible black and shining with palm oil, with which they are besmeared, came in crowds and surrounded us, gazing at me, crying, "White mammy;" others ran from us with fear. We gave the mothers some crackers, and soon every one that could get a child (sometimes quite as big as the pretended mother herself) had one packed on her back to get a cracker also. They are a very shrewd people--fine forms and well-proportioned. We visited the queen, who has a separate room in the king's house. He was absent; she received us quite graciously: her body was striped with white paint. We thought best to try for a meeting. The king's house was selected. One of the natives undertook to notify the meeting. He passed on before us, stopping at each house, and very soon the people might be seen running from every point toward the house where they were to have a "God palaver," as they call it. A number gathered. A native named Giando undertook to interpret for us. They were attentive--promised with clamorous acclamation that they would do as we told them. The meeting was relieving, and we have great cause for gratitude. Before we left the village several females had painted their faces white, which made them look ridiculous in the extreme.

_18th._ Set sail for Cape Palmas again. Came to anchor after sunset.

_19th._ Went on shore; called at Dr. McGill's; they received us pleasantly. He occupies the vacancy made by the lamented death of Governor Rupworm. Dined at F. Burns's, the Methodist minister. We were interested in the information they gave us of the colony and natives. The latter have three villages very compact, and with all the heathen customs, the most disgusting of which is their unclad forms that are seen in every direction, forming a striking contrast to the neat dwellings, decent clothing, and intelligent countenances of the colonists. On the outermost point of this high promontory is a lighthouse, and about it the colonists' houses stand surrounded with fine gardens and the beautiful African fruit trees. Made an appointment at the Methodist house for to-morrow.

_20th._ We have not been able to meet our appointment, the swell is so great. We have been somewhat disappointed in not getting to town, but are sure that all is well under the supervision of Him who commands the elements in His own consummate wisdom.

_21st, First day._ Beautiful morning; got safely on shore, and had a large meeting in the Methodist house. In the sweet covenant of peace and joy the meeting closed.

_22nd._ Got on shore, and rode in a small carriage drawn by natives about two miles into the country, accompanied by Dr. McGill and his amiable wife. Delighted with the scenery. The dwellings of the colonists are comfortable, but most of their farms are uncultivated; very rich soil. We have a strong apology to make for the indolence in Africa: most of the settlers hitherto are emancipated slaves, worn out with hard service in the land of oppression, from which they have been sent after their spirits and strength are wasted by unrequited toil. Then they meet this enervating climate. A number of energetic husbandmen should be sent out with every colony to inspire them. Manual-labor schools would doubtless succeed here, but the present operations must fail to arrive at the happy results anticipated by the philanthropists.

_23d._ Went on shore and had a most interesting meeting with the children. Many youthful eyes were bedewed with tears as they heard the glad tidings of a Saviour's love.

_24th._ Had a meeting at the Episcopal house. The Lord was with us. We gave books and tracts.

_25th._ We were saddened by the conviction that some of us would meet no more on earth. We left Cape Palmas with an additional interest for Africa. We feel that we are only the pioneers--that the Lord will send yet more honorable members of his household to this land.

_27th._ Very weak. Came to anchor off Sinon. My E. went on shore, but I thought best to remain, write, and arrange for to-morrow. E. returned wearied, but much delighted with his excursion into the country.

_28th._ Went early on shore, and, taking our vessel's boat and crew, proceeded up the Sinon River about two miles to a colonist settlement. Our meeting was well attended and the word was heard with gladness. We walked in a footpath some distance in a smart shower, and were wet and much fatigued. Rested and dried our clothes a little before the meeting. The people more industrious than any we have seen before in Liberia.

_30th._ Went on shore; had a meeting in the Baptist house. It was a final parting and a heavenly season. No doubt that we shall have the prayers of these dear people.

_10th mo. 3d._ Anchored this P. M. off Bassa.

_4th._ Went on shore, but with much difficulty, it being the worst bar on the coast. We proceeded along the coast until we found a place to land in safety. The natives managed with great skill, and as soon as we came near land they sprang into the water and caught me, and in a minute set me down high and dry, seemingly highly gratified, exclaiming "Mammy no wet." We called at a little cabin and got a cup of tea made, and when the rain subsided we proceeded to the town. Beautiful country, covered with orange trees and guava, but farms sadly neglected. I think the plough is needed as much as missionary labors, for without the former the latter cannot accomplish much.

P. M. Very rainy; had a ride in a hammock, or rather a substitute for one--a piece of native cloth with the ends fastened together with ropes, and a pole passed through loops; the poles rested on the natives' shoulders. It was placed on the ground for me to step in and lie down, but I begged the privilege of walking, which was refused, as it would injure my health, for the rain was pouring. I did not like it, although I did not get wet. The idea of a bier was constantly presenting itself, together with the fear that it was too great a burden for the poor natives. A terrible storm came up on our way back to the ship, and we nearly lost our lives in the angry waves.

_5th, First day._ Had a meeting in the evening on board, as it was very rainy. In retirement this day we could say with the Psalmist, "How precious are thy thoughts unto me!"

_7th._ Went ashore and had a meeting at Edina, on the north side of the St. John's River. It proved a memorable solemnity.

_8th._ Went on shore and had a meeting on the south side of the St. John's, at Bassa. The blessed Head of the Church was pleased to feed the hungering multitudes through His poor instruments. A number collected to witness our departure, and we took an affectionate leave of them, mingled with sadness, on our final departure from Bassa Cove.

Set sail about five o'clock with a brisk wind, which would take us to Monrovia by sunrise, but it soon became calm, and we came to anchor. The Lord knows what is best.

_9th._ We are quite anxious as we approach Monrovia, for here we must decide whether to remain in Africa and wait a passage to England (should none offer before the packet leaves), or return to Boston and thence embark to Liverpool. I trust we are resigned to either as the Lord wills.

_10th._ Anchored off Cape Mesurado. Dear Eli went on shore and found letters from home. We read them together with much joy, as they contained intelligence that all was well with the dear children and those at home. Boundless is our debt of gratitude. One of the immigrants who was in good health at the time of our last meeting on board is dead. We learned that she died in peace, but was cruelly treated by her husband.

_11th._ Went on shore accompanied by the President's wife. I took a bundle of tracts and visited all the sick and infirm, distributing tracts and imparting such messages of gospel love as were given me.

_First day, 12th._ Went on shore quite comfortably, although it was wet, and attended a meeting at the Baptist house. Our meetings here have been signally blessed. Truly the Lord's name is great in Zion.

_13th._ Rainy, but got on shore, and made calls and distributed tracts. No way opens yet for Sierra Leone. We are wholly dependent on Him who makes a way.

_14th._ Called at U. McGill's, J. B. McGill's, Beverley Willson's. I then distributed tracts, and I think that I never saw so much gratitude manifested in any part of the world I ever visited. As I passed their little cots they followed me in numbers; even children joined, holding out their hands begging for a tract. At length all were gone, but a few more on board.

_15th._ Dear Eli went up the river St Paul, and visited New Georgia, Upper and Lower Caldwell, Virginia, and Kentucky. I spent the day making calls and giving tracts.

_17th._ It is a time of seeking the Lord among the people. The youth are flocking to the Saviour. May a glorious accession be made to the militant Church from Africa!

_19th._ Went on shore, and had a meeting at the Methodist house, and it was a solemn occasion, as it was our final meeting.

_20th._ Went on shore for the last time, as the ship would sail at three o'clock. Made several calls, one on a sick immigrant from Antigua. Has been sick seven months, reduced to a skeleton; said he had a wife and two children in his native land. As he spoke of them his eyes filled with tears, and "God's will be done!" fell from his trembling lips.

I went with some ladies to the highest point of this commanding promontory. Had a fine view of the town and mountains toward the interior. We met many a smiling face and heard many a "Thank you" as we stopped at the little cots to distribute tracts. The Liberians are very anxious to get these little messengers, and read them with interest. We hope they may be a blessing to them. I handed one to an aged woman, who clasped it to her bosom and exclaimed, "The Lord bless you! I will keep it to read while I live, and when I die I will have it put into my coffin."

We have left Monrovia, and as the land recedes from view the pangs of separation from many, if not all, are keenly realized, not only by us, but by the group on shore. But as the clouds dispersed around the setting sun his last sweet rays rested upon the rich foliage, and then, veiling his face in a mantle of crimson clouds, withdrew. We leave Africa with sheaves of peace.

_21st._ Made little progress to-day. Though our returning in the ship is very unexpected, yet all is peace, and it seems to us to be in the will of Him who brought us in safety across the mighty deep. No way has opened for us to go to Sierra Leone or England. We intend to return to America (if no new opening appears) and embark at Boston for Liverpool. In this way we may see our little ones; which seems almost too great a favor. We have thoughts of stopping at St. Thomas, and thence prosecuting our contemplated visit among the islands, if we can make an arrangement with the captain that will answer and it seems right.

_22d._ Delightful weather. This morning in silent waiting before the Lord He gave us to feel His holy presence near, and an assurance that He would still lead us and instruct us.

_23d._ The captain concludes to leave us at St. Thomas if we desire it. We had looked toward home, but the prospect seems somewhat like closing up. The will of the Lord be done!

Some swallows appeared this morning and flew into the cabin. They lingered about all day. They may be emigrants from cold New England's clime. They brought with them sweet thoughts of scenes and lands far over the blue depths of ocean.

_28th._ Clear weather. Think it may be best to abandon the thought of returning home, and stop at St. Thomas, one of the West Indies, and commence our next labors. This seems a favorable opening, for a Northern tour will be too great a change of climate. My health seems greatly improved by a warm climate.

_30th, First day._ We sat down for meeting together, it being meeting-day at home. We felt as the disciples journeying toward Emmaus; we felt our hearts warmed and tendered together.

_31st._ St. Thomas is in our minds' view, but whether we shall get there or not lies in the bosom of futurity. It will probably take two weeks longer to reach there if the ship touches it. Our daily prayer is to be directed aright.

_11th mo. 1st._ Dear Eli is much better, and my health is quite good. The cook is quite sick; I fear he will not recover. He is in great distress both of mind and body. How wise to prepare for such an awful time in health!

_2d._ Last evening we read a chapter by the bedside of the distressed sailor. My heart was poured out in prayer.

_3d._ We are sailing ten knots an hour toward our native land. The captain does not think, on further reflection, that he can consistently stop at St. Thomas. We had given up to go if the way had been clear, and therefore think the hand of the Lord is in it. He will accept the will for the deed. The cook seems recovering, and truly penitent. He told me that a testimony delivered at our last meeting on board was for him. He has been previously a very profane and wicked man. This is a fresh instance of the mercy and longsuffering of the Lord.

_6th._ We are approaching our native land with the sheaves of peace, but feeling still bound to the work, not knowing the things that may await us there. May my whole life be dedicated to His service who has so remarkably blessed my going out and coming in!

_20th._ The captain concludes to set his course for Baltimore, hoping to reach Cape Henry before our stores fail.

_9th._ About ten o'clock a pilot-boat came alongside and left a pilot. Providence permitting, we may soon set our feet on the wharf at Baltimore. Soon we must bid adieu to our home upon the ocean. We are encouraged with the regular and sober deportment of all on board, and, though our passage has been a protracted one, we do not regret it, while we have beheld with thankfulness the operation of the Lord's hand upon the crew of our brave ship, to which, with its inmates, we shall now bid adieu with emotions of gladness and regret. Oh may all that have sailed together here anchor at last in the kingdom of God! Farewell!

* * * * *

Soon after their return Eli Jones wrote an article for the _Friends' Review_ setting forth the conditions of this African colony, and recommending that some more work be done to help these enterprising freedmen and the less enlightened native tribes within the republic of Liberia. The article was reprinted, and was read by many. Still later, while at work in North Carolina, he received a call from the president of the African Colonization Society to attend one of their meetings in Washington, which he accordingly did. As he entered the hall where the exercises were being held a gentleman was delivering a discourse in which he endeavored to show the impossibility of an equality between negroes and white men, and consequently the hazardousness of the experiment of allowing them to rule themselves. The chairman then announced that the next speaker was to have been Eli Jones, but that he had not yet seen him.

To his surprise, a man rose in the back of the hall, threw off his overcoat, and came to the platform. He gave his name as the one called for, and began to give his knowledge and opinion of Liberian colonization. He took as his text the remark of the former speaker, saying that he as a landowner and tiller of the soil went from Maine to Liberia, where he stood on an equality with the landowners there; but as he came in the presence of President Roberts there was not an equality, since he, the white man, stood below the vigorous, wise, strong-minded colored President of the republic. From that he spoke for an hour feelingly and emphatically on the excellence of the work going on in Africa, at the same time impressing the need of further aid.