Chapter IV: Part 4

Nearly under the central window, a memorial brass has been laid over the grave of Canon Fardell, who died in 1854, and of his widow, who died in 1861; to whose memories respectively the two stained glass windows were inserted in the north aisle of the Choir, noticed in p. 79. Near this stands an ancient oaken chest, covered with elaborate and curious ironwork, with four locks.

Behind the new altar-screen, beneath a large and costly slab of Alexandrine mosaic, is the grave of Bishop Allen (1836-1845), to whose memory a monument in white marble has been erected in the south aisle of the Choir. A little further southward is a monument erected over the grave of Dr. Mill, Canon of Ely, and Regius Professor of Hebrew in the University of Cambridge, who died in 1853. It is an altar tomb of serpentine and alabaster, ornamented with marble mosaic and polished stones, bearing a recumbent effigy of Dr. Mill in his robes; at the feet are two kneeling figures, one an oriental character, and the other a student; the figure is in copper and was formed by the electrotype process. It was designed by Sir G.G. Scott, and executed by Mr. Philip.

In the eastern bay on the south side is a monument of Cardinal de Luxemburg, Archbishop of Rouen, and Bishop of Ely (1438-1443). This monument was for many years hidden by a screen, but on the removal of the Choir the screen was taken away and the monument partially restored, the figure remains but the head is gone. The Cardinal-bishop died at Hatfield, and his body was buried at Ely, but his heart was conveyed to his Cathedral at Rouen. The niches and canopies with their finials in the tympanum of the arch above this monument will attract attention, being chaste and elegant; they are similar to those in the interior of Bishop West's chapel, but are in a more perfect state.

+South Aisle of the Choir.+

The eastern portion of this aisle is occupied by the elegant mortuary +Chapel of Bishop West+, (1515-1534), filling the space of one bay in a similar way to that of Bishop Alcock in the north aisle. It is a rich specimen of that gorgeous style by some called the "Florid English," by others the "Perpendicular," but when that style was verging into "Renaissance." The niches and canopies are very numerous, and almost endless in variety of size, shape, and decoration. There are places for upwards of two hundred statues, large and small; and some of the carved heads were of medallion size, and well executed. It is impossible to contemplate this beautiful oratory, even in its mutilated state, but with feelings of admiration; the taste of the designer, no less than the execution of the sculptor, are wonderful, and although every part is covered with niches, pedestals, and canopies, interspersed with relievos, grotesque designs and ornaments, the whole appears light and airy. The ceilings of the canopies are covered with tracery that can only be compared to lace-work exquisitely varied and finished; the ceiling and pendents are deserving attention; the former is divided into lozenge shaped compartments of different sizes, all are coloured, and on many of them are painted the arms of the see, and those of the founder of the chapel; the pendents are formed by figures of angels holding the same arms and those of Henry VIII. Over the door on the inside is this inscription:

"GRACIA DEI SUM QUOD ID SUM, A.D. 1534."

and the same without the date and the word "id" is to be seen in several other places both within and without. The gates are worthy of notice as originals, and as specimens of wrought-iron work of that period. This chapel, which is the burial place of Bishop West, may be compared with that built by him in the parish church of his birth-place, Putney; but every part of it has suffered the most barbarous mutilation, not a figure can be found perfect, all have been removed or defaced, probably in consequence of an order in council made A.D. 1547-8, against the Romish superstition, and for removing images out of churches; or it might have been done by the Puritans in the time of the Protector (Cromwell), whose soldiers it is stated, made use of the Cathedral as stabling for their horses.

Bishop Keene (1771-1781), was also buried here; and Bishop Sparke (1812-1836) and Mrs. Sparke were interred in this chapel, to whose memories the monument at the east end has been erected, and the stained glass window behind is inserted:

The window was executed by Mr. Evans, of Shrewsbury, and
contains figures of the four Evangelists, with St. John the
Baptist in the centre; the tracery being filled with
appropriate emblems and ornamental devices.

A slab of black marble, inlaid with a foliated cross, the arms of the sees of Chester and Ely, and surrounded by an inscription in brass, has been laid over the grave of Bishop Sparke, and the gravestones of Bishops West and Keene have been replaced, and the remainder of the floor laid with encaustic tiles.

Some fragments of stained glass may be seen in a window on the south side, under which stand the remains of Bishop West's monument. Just above this, in seven small arches, closed with as many stones inscribed with names and dates, are immured the remains of seven eminent persons[47] of the tenth and eleventh centuries, who were originally interred in the Conventual church, but from which they were removed in 1154, and the small chests which contained their remains, were placed in the north wall of the Choir of the present Cathedral; and when the position of the Choir was altered in 1770 they were again removed, and deposited in their present resting places.

[Footnote 47: Wolstan, Archbishop of York; Osmund, a Swedish bishop; Ednoth, Bishop of Dorchester (Lincoln); Alfwyn, Elfgar, and Athelstan, severally Bishops of Elmham; and Brithnoth, Duke of Northumberland. An interesting account of the removal of these remains may be found in the Addenda to Bentham's History, vol. ii. p. 23, &c.]

The perspective view westward through the south aisles of the Choir and the Nave is worthy of notice for the various intersections of the arches and groinings, as seen from a narrow window in the west side of the chapel, or from the door.

The architecture of the south aisle is similar to the north aisle, and the windows were probably altered to their present form about the same period as those in the north aisle. Five of them (as on the other side) have been filled with stained glass:

The first window from the chapel, executed by Messrs.
Clayton and Bell, contains subjects taken from the Parables;
designed as a memorial of Astley Sparke, Esq., (son of the
Rev. Chancellor Sparke,) who was killed in the celebrated
cavalry charge at Balaclava in 1854.

The second window was executed by Mr. Cottingham, and
contains subjects from the history of Lazarus; the joint
gift of Lady Buxton and of her son, Sir Robert Buxton,
Bart., of Shadwell Park, Norfolk.

The third window contains incidents in the history of the
Saviour, and of St. John; executed by Messrs. Clayton and
Bell: the gift of Mrs. Pratt, youngest daughter of Bishop
Sparke.

The fourth window, by the same artists, contains subjects
illustrative of the history of St. Peter; the gift of the
same lady, as a memorial of her husband, Colonel Pratt.

The fifth window, by the same artists, contains subjects
illustrative of the history of our Lord: given by the same
lady.

Under the second window from the chapel is an arched recess, which is thought to have formed an entrance to the church for the convenience of the sisters and others attendant on the sick in the Infirmary which stood near, but it has been closed on the exterior for many years. The interior may have been since used as a receptacle for relics; now it is occupied as a receptacle for a beautiful life-size effigy of Dr. Selwyn, for upwards of forty years Canon of Ely, and for many years St Margaret Professor of Divinity at Cambridge;[48] who died in 1875. The figure is represented as vested in cassock, surplice, and stole, with the hands joined as in prayer, in white statuary marble, and resting on a moulded base of Purbeck marble. The cost was defrayed by subscriptions from several noblemen and gentlemen formerly Eton scholars.

[Footnote 48: The Professor left the sum of £10,000 towards the erection of Divinity Schools in connection with the University of Cambridge, which have just been completed.]

Near this we may notice an ancient gravestone, or part of a monument found under the floor of the nave in St. Mary's Church, in 1829. It represents an angel with wings raised above the head, bearing a small naked figure, probably representing the soul of a bishop, as a crozier appears at the side; the angel has on a kind of cope with an ornamental border; and around the head is a large circular aureole, and the canopy shows a mass of buildings with semicircular arches. There is an inscription on the rim, "_St. Michael oret p' me_." To whose memory it was executed it is impossible to say, but it is doubtless of great interest.

A good view of the organ may be had from this aisle by looking over the tomb in the fourth bay from the chapel.

Several other monuments to former prelates of the church, and to other persons, may be observed in this aisle: one to Bishop Gunning (1675-1684), worthy of remembrance as the author of the "Prayer for all sorts and conditions of men." Near the foot of this monument is a piscina in the wall. A little further we find one to Bishop Heton (1600-1609), occupying the fifth bay, and is perhaps the only instance since the Reformation, of the effigy of a bishop in a cope ornamented with saints; the figures on the left border are those of St. Bartholomew, St. Matthias, St. Andrew, St. Peter, and St. John.

Before passing on to the few remaining monuments we will notice the only two specimens of ancient memorial brasses, of which there were many in the Cathedral, as appears by the numerous incised stones in different parts of the church, many of them were evidently of a rich and elaborate character, but all, with the above exception, have disappeared by the act of the mercenary or the fanatic. The first is a memorial to Bishop Goodrich (1534-1554), a singular instance of a hot reformer commemorated by a brass in which are pourtrayed all the ecclesiastical vestments, he holds his crozier in his left hand, and in his right he carries a Bible from which depends the great seal of England, the bishop having been appointed Lord High Chancellor in 1551; the inscription has been removed. The other is in memory of Humphrey Tyndall, fourth dean of the Cathedral (1591-1614), who is represented in his robes, with a square-cut beard; an inscription is engraved in the border, and the following lines beneath the feet of the effigy:

"THE BODY OF THE WOORTHY & REVERENDE PRELATE
VMPHRY TYNDALL, DOCTOR OF DIVINITY, THE FOVRTH DEAN
OF THIS CHVRCH, AND MASTER OF QVEENES COLLEDGE IN
CAMBRIDGE DOTH HERE EXPECT THE COMING OF OVR SAVIOVR.

"In presence, gouerment, good actions and in birth,
Graue, wise, couragious, Noble was this earth,
The poor, the church, the colledge saye here lyes
'A friende, A Deane, A maister, true, good, wise.'"

We have now an opportunity of noticing the piers which separate Bishop Northwold's work from that of Bishop Hotham; "they are," as Mr. Millers observes, "a combination of the two sorts of column severally in use at the respective times at which the two fabrics were erected; the east side has the small shafts distinct from the main column, and the west side is clustered, and where they meet is a niche for a statue."[49] In the niche on this side is a tablet to the memory of the Rev. James Bentham, Canon of Ely, and author of "The History and Antiquities of Ely Cathedral," a work of acknowledged merit, the result of many years' labour and research. He died in 1794, aged 86.

[Footnote 49: Millers' Description of Ely Cathedral, p. 89.]

The monument to Robert Steward, Esq., who died A.D. 1570, is next in our route, and beyond that one to Sir Mark Steward, who died A.D. 1603, both examples of no particular style. In the last bay is the monument erected to the memory of Bishop Allen, whose gravestone we noticed in passing the retro-choir; on the table of the monument is a reclining figure of the prelate in his robes, in white marble, considered to be a good likeness.

Back-screens to mask the stalls, similar to those in the north aisle, have been erected on this side, against which have been placed the monuments of Bishop Moore (1707-1714), Bishop Butts (1738-1748), and Bishop Greene (1723-1738). On the pillar between the two last is a tablet to the memory of William Lynne, gentleman, of Bassingbourne, the first husband of Elizabeth, daughter of William Steward, of Ely, and afterwards mother of Oliver Cromwell.

The new screens with gates at the western end of the aisles are worthy of notice as specimens of modern work in wrought iron; they were executed by Mr. Skidmore, of Coventry, from designs by Sir G.G. Scott. That in the south aisle was given by G.A. Lowndes, Esq., of Barrington Hall, Essex; and that in the north aisle by Dean Peacock.

Near the Library door is a simple memorial stone[50] to Dean Peacock, the great promoter of the recent restorations, who died in 1858, and was buried in the Cemetery. Just below this is an elegant memorial brass to the Rev. Solomon Smith, M.A., for over forty years a Minor Canon of the Cathedral, and for many years Incumbent of St. Mary's.

[Footnote 50: See note, p. 50.]

Several other memorial remains may be observed in various parts of the church, but to enumerate them or to point them out would exceed our limits, one we may notice in passing, that of Dean Cæsar (1614-1636), which has been removed from a position it long occupied in the north aisle of the Choir, to the junction of that aisle with the closed end of the eastern aisle of the north Transept, near the new pulpit.

We may also notice a new oaken lectern or reading desk near the pulpit, containing a beautifully carved figure representative of the first beatitude, under a cinquefoil canopy, the gift of the Very Rev. the Dean.

"Of fifty-four bishops of Ely," says Mr. Millers, "thirty-five are known to have been buried in this Cathedral, and two in the Lady Chapel. Of these thirty-seven, there are memorials of twenty; some of them very scanty and much mutilated, and many removed from the spots where the bodies of those whom they commemorate repose. Of the other seventeen, there were no doubt, similar memorials, but they 'are perished as though they had never been.'"[51] Since the above was written two others have been buried in the Cathedral--Bishop Sparke in West's chapel, and Bishop Allen behind the altar screen, as we have noticed; Bishop Turton (1845-1864), was buried at Kensal Green.

[Footnote 51: Millers' Description of Ely Cathedral, p. 85.]

* * * * *

+The Lady Chapel.+

We will now direct the attention of the visitor to this most interesting building, which stands on the north side of the Cathedral, parallel with the Choir, and is approached through a doorway at the north-east corner of the north Transept. This chapel was erected in the early part of the fourteenth century, the first stone being laid on Lady-day, 1321, by Alan de Walsingham, then sub-prior, and the whole was completed A.D. 1349. The works were carried on chiefly under the charge of John de Wisbech, one of the monks, who, it is stated, whilst assisting in digging the foundations, found a brazen pot of old coins buried in the earth, and which proved a great assistance in carrying on the work. This was, perhaps, one of the most beautiful and elaborate specimens of the Decorated style in England; and as Mr. Stewart observes, "must have been a perfect storehouse of statuary and elaborate tabernacle work." Even in its present dilapidated state it will amply repay a careful examination. It was dedicated to St. Mary, and after the Reformation, was (in 1566) assigned by the Dean and Chapter for the use of the inhabitants of the parish of Holy Trinity in lieu of their own church then in ruins, and has since been frequently called "Trinity Church."

This is, perhaps, the widest single-span church in the kingdom, being 46 feet in width; the length is 100 feet, and the height 60 feet to the centre of the ceiling. Its length is divided into five severies, in each of which, on both sides, is a window of great size with four lights and rich tracery, in some of which are fragments of the original stained glass, sufficient to indicate that they were all, at one period, entirely so filled. The end windows are noble and spacious, the west window having eight lights, and the east window seven, both have transoms, and each with tracery differing from the other, and from the windows in the sides. Both are insertions of a somewhat later date than the building, the east window by Bishop Barnet about 1373, and the other a little later.

The walls everywhere display a rich profusion and variety of ornament, once beautified with colouring and gilding, but some years ago covered with whitewash; a few faint traces of its former splendour may yet be found in various parts of the chapel, enough perhaps to shew that it must have been gorgeous in the extreme.

A low bench table runs along the walls and carries a series of niches with canopies richly decorated, the piers of which rise from the floor, but each is divided into two by a slender pillar rising from the bench table; the arcade on the north side consists of nineteen tabernacles separated by square pilasters of Purbeck marble; there are five sets of three each under the windows, and the remaining four fill up the intermediate spaces between the five groups. The canopy of each of the fifteen tabernacles consists of a head of singular beauty, radiated and inclined forwards, on the apex is, or was, the figure of a saint; above these is a hood-mould crocketed, and terminating with a finial. The other four are wider, and instead of the figure of a saint on the apex each terminates in a group of three elaborately carved brackets or corbels, which support two other ranges of niches in pairs, surmounted by ornamented canopies, and between them runs a roof-shaft, from which spring the ribs of the vaulting, which is similar to that of the stalled Choir. The spandrils of the tabernacle work is filled with diaper work and alto relievos which are supposed to represent some legendary history, most probably that of the virgin.

The south side is similar to the north, except that the range of tabernacles is broken by doorways. The west end contains eight of these tabernacles, and at the east end a larger niche occupied the centre with others on the sides, but these were altered at a later period. The altar is elevated above the level of the floor, and the niches on the side walls are raised in accordance. Large niches are placed on the sides of all the windows, and a pierced parapet standing on an entablature formed of a receding hollow, runs under the side windows only.

The backs of the niches and indeed many parts of the chapel show remains of rich colouring; the ceiling was painted a rich blue studded with silver stars, the bosses at the intersections of the ribs represented flowers, foliage, and grotesque masks, and some of those along the mid-rib represented emblems of the nativity, crucifixion, the virgin, &c.; they had been richly coloured and gilded, but, like other parts of the building, have been defaced and injured; and every person who sees it must feel a deep regret that so beautiful a building should ever reach such a stage of desecration.

A few modern monumental tablets are placed on the walls, but they diminish rather than increase the decoration: some others have been removed to the entrance, and in 1865 the close pews were taken away and replaced by open seats; the organ has been enlarged and its position changed, which does not improve the appearance of the church; some of the windows have been re-glazed and other improvements effected. The present Incumbent is the Rev. E.H. Lowe, M.A.

The position of the Lady Chapel here is rather unusual, it is generally placed at the east end of the Church; but in some few instances that honourable position was appropriated to the shrine of the local saint; here it was occupied by the shrine of St. Etheldreda, whose final resting place was within the apse of the original Choir, before the Presbytery was built.

* * * * *

+The Upper parts of the Church.+

To those who may feel disposed to explore the upper parts of the church, facilities are afforded by a staircase commencing at the south-west Transept leading to the western Tower; and by another leading from the north Transept; but permission must be obtained, for which an application should be made to the Verger in attendance. The ascent, though tedious, is not dangerous, if due caution be used. Many parts will be found worthy of attention; the timber work of the Octagon is a very curious piece of carpentry executed in English oak, and very massive. A fine view of the interior may be had by standing against the upper tier of the windows at the east end, and looking westward; and another from the great Tower, by looking eastward through one of the openings near the clock face in the Nave. An extensive view of the surrounding country may be obtained from the summit of the Tower, exhibiting a complete panorama of the district, with several churches peeping from among the trees, and the river Ouse tracing its meandering course towards the sea, while corn-fields, meadows, and pastures contribute towards the beauty of the scene.

+Exterior of the Cathedral.+

After a careful examination of the interior, the visitor will do well to look round the exterior. We will continue our observations for his guidance and assistance, starting from the western front where we began; or by leaving the Cathedral by the north door into the church-yard, we turn to the left hand towards the north-west corner of the building, and proceed eastward.

While we are on the spot it may be well to observe the burial-ground near us, where lie the remains of generation after generation of former inhabitants of the town. Reader, let thy foot tread lightly hereabout, for the dust it presses on is all that remains of the earthly portion of creatures once breathing and living like yourself. What a lesson is afforded us when we contemplate, on the one hand the works of men of ages long past, but still standing as monuments of their skill and piety, and on the other the graves of the silent dead; the heads which planned and the hands which executed, where are they? Long since consigned to earth. All must feel, more or less, the influence of impressions to which such thoughts and scenes give rise, and may such feelings cause us to remember that we are but dust, and that we must, perhaps soon, become as those who lie beneath our feet!

"Our time is fixed, and all our days are numbered,
How long, how short, we know not."--_Blair_.

The church-yard has been closed from burials for some years, and a cemetery has been formed a short distance from the town for the use of both parishes, as well as for the precincts which are extra-parochial. Many of the gravestones have been laid down, others removed, but a few inscriptions might be found which would afford food for meditation to those who may feel inclined to examine them.

* * * * *

At the commencement of our survey we examined the western front, and will now turn our attention to the remains of the north-west Transept. Some persons have doubted whether this wing ever existed, but Sir. G.G. Scott, in his able Lecture on the Cathedral, delivered at the Etheldreda Festival in October, 1873, gave good reasons for believing that it was built at the same time as the Tower and the south wing; and we cannot but think the ruins give strong evidence of its having been similar in all respects to that on the south side. There is in this, as in the other, a grand semicircular arch on the eastern side, and portions of another which probably communicated with some chapel, of which however there are neither remains nor record. It would appear that after the fall of the original wing a new building was begun on the same spot, not however of the same dimensions, and carried but a few feet and then discontinued. A band of panelling in the western face of the buttress corresponds with the work on the monument of Bishop Redman, who died in 1505, but the fall of the Transept took place some years, probably a century, before that. The arches built within the original arches of the Tower to afford additional support are believed to have been erected in the early part of the fifteenth century.

We have reasons to hope that steps will ere long be taken to raise a fund towards rebuilding this Transept;[52] which would indeed be a grand improvement, and worthy the support, not only of the Diocese of Ely but of the nation at large.

[Footnote 52: At the meeting of the Diocesan Conference at Ely, in July, 1874, the subject of the Restorations of the Cathedral was discussed, and the following Resolution passed unanimously.--"That it is desirable that a Diocesan Committee of Clergy and Laity, with Branch Committees in each Archdeaconry, be formed to co-operate with the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, for raising funds to carry on the Restoration of the Cathedral by rebuilding in the first instance, after the completion of the works now in hand, the north-west Transept."--_Ely Conference Report, 1874._]

A good view of the Nave may be obtained as it is unobstructed through its whole length. A band of treble billet moulding runs under the lower windows; a double hatched moulding under the second tier; and immediately below the parapet is the ornament called the corbel table; these with the billet moulding round the clerestory windows, are in excellent preservation. The parapet on the wall of the aisle is embattled, that above the clerestory windows is plain. Although at one time battlements ran the whole length on both sides, those on the north were removed nearly one hundred years ago. The windows in the clerestory retain their original form, but those of the two lower tiers have been altered. Over one of the lower windows there appears a date (1662), probably referring to the period of some important repairs or alterations on this side. The removal of the ruins of the old Church of St. Cross, which stood near this spot, took place in the reign of Elizabeth, when the use of the Lady Chapel was granted to the parish of Holy Trinity.

We next turn our attention to the Octagon, which forms a grand central point from which radiate the four principal parts of the church--the Nave, the Choir, and the north and south arms of the Transept. Here originally stood a large square Norman Tower, which fell down in 1322, and was replaced by the present building; it is not an exact octagon, having four longer sides adjoining the four main portions of the building, and four shorter sides at the angles. The design was a grand one, but whether it was ever fully carried out is somewhat doubtful, the stone-work is carried up to a height a little above the roof of the Nave, &c., but the Lantern above is of English oak covered with lead. From a strong buttress, surmounted by a pinnacle, at each of the angles formed by the walls of the Nave and Choir aisles with those of the Transept spring two massive flying buttresses, abutting octagonal turrets at each angle of the Octagon; these turrets were probably originally designed to be finished with pinnacles, and thus form a corona; between them runs a pierced parapet formerly surmounted by a bold cresting of leaves and other ornaments; and there are bases of pillars at the cardinal points. These pinnacles with the cresting have just been completed in Clipsham stone, by Mr. Wood, of Ely, in a manner highly creditable to his skill, and greatly to the improvement of the appearance of the building. Beneath the parapet, instead of a corbel table, there is a deep hollow, with running leaves, and small ball flowers at intervals. The sides of the Octagon are adorned with an arcade of pointed arches, some of which are pierced and glazed to admit light; the longer sides have six, and the shorter three, of these arches. In each of the turrets is a winding stair communicating respectively with the main parts of the building. The Lantern above is of two stories, the lower, (which is open to the interior of the Octagon) is lighted by windows assimilating with the large windows in the angles of the Octagon; the upper story is lighted by louvres as adapted to a belfry, for which purpose this chamber was originally designed; the lower windows have been reconstructed, a series of flying buttresses (which had been taken away) have been re-placed against the angle divisions, which are finished with embattled turrets instead of pinnacles, and between them runs an open-work parapet. The whole of the Lantern has been repaired, and the exterior wood work re-covered with lead.

The portion of the north Transept which fell down in 1699, although soon afterwards carefully restored, and the mouldings and ornaments nicely replaced, may yet be distinguished from the old work: the Tuscan door-arch, however, in its northern face, is quite out of place here, not according with the style of the building in which it is placed. The restorations were executed under the directions of Sir Christopher Wren. The northern face of the Transept shows two pairs of Norman windows, the second pair being longer than those in the lower tier; above these is an arcade of small arches, and over these are two high Perpendicular windows, which reach partly into the gable. Over the doorway in the eastern aisle is an original Norman window, and in the western aisle is a replaced one.

The west front of the Lady Chapel[53] is richly decorated with niches, and has a noble window, under which is an arcade of small arches formed entirely in the thickness of the wall, in the back of some of which may be seen traces of coloured decoration; the gable point is adorned with a niche rising above the pierced parapet running up the sides. On each side of the building are five large windows, the tracery of which is much decayed, having been executed in a softer kind of stone than the walls. Between each two windows is a deep projecting buttress surmounted by a crocketed pinnacle; at the angles are double buttresses, on which are two kinds of tabernacles, both are square and occupy the breadth of the buttress, the upper one is recessed in the body of the buttress, the lower one is open on three sides, and had small pillars at the front angles rising from the set-off and carrying the projecting canopy; the tops being finished with crocketed pinnacles. The east end is not so richly ornamented as the west; the window is a very fine one but not so large as the western one, and there are no niches on the sides nor beneath it.

[Footnote 53: Now in course of restoration.]

The north side of the Choir is somewhat hidden by the Lady Chapel, which stands parallel to it, although the latter is much shorter; but a better view may be had by going between them. An opportunity is also thus afforded of observing the original Norman windows of the triforium of the Transept.

The windows of the aisle are uniform in size and shape, those of the triforium are nearly similar, but all were originally lancet-shaped, but altered to their present form in the latter part of the fifteenth century. The aisle roof of the two western bays of Bishop Northwold's work (the six eastern bays) was perhaps originally as high as the other parts, but altered at a later period; the tracery of these windows on the north side remains, but on the south side there is a difference which should be noticed. The lighter style of architecture and the large windows of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries made the support of buttresses necessary, in this instance they are deep, and surmounted by crocketed pinnacles; on the sides of many of them are gargoyles, or water-spouts of grotesque figures; flying buttresses are sometimes used in addition, reaching from the side buttresses to the clerestory walls, thus forming an important addition to the support as well as to the external beauty of the fabric: of this the exterior of the Choir of Ely Cathedral is a splendid proof.

The east end of the Cathedral is one of the finest specimens extant of an Early English east front. It is divided into three stories; the lowest has three lancet windows of nearly equal height; the next tier has five windows of the same shape, side by side, the centre one being higher and those on the sides gradually lower; the third story, which is within the gable, contains three lancet windows, not seen in the Choir, but giving light to the space between the ceiling and the roof. There are several niches for statues, but no figures; and the spandrils of the window arches are relieved by quatrefoils and other ornaments. The gable point is adorned with an ornamented cross, which has been restored at the expense of Lady Mildred Hope; and a crocketed pinnacle at the south-east corner has been given by A.J.B. Beresford Hope, Esq. Rather more than a century ago this end was about two feet out of the perpendicular, but was skilfully restored by Mr. Essex, the architect.

The eastern faces of the aisles appear as wings to the end of the Choir, and are flanked with double buttresses at the angles, upon which are set larger pinnacles crocketed. The windows lighting the two chapels at the end of the aisles were probably inserted when the chapels were erected; that in the north aisle is set in the wall, while that in the south aisle projects beyond the wall nearly to the depth of the buttress.

The south side of the Choir is similar to the north, with the exception before mentioned--the two western bays of Bishop Northwold's work, in each of which the opening in the triforium is formed into two arches of a style differing from the adjoining portion of the building, but which have the appearance of originality. The walls of the triforium, both in the Choir and Nave were not originally so high as we now see them, but no doubt were heightened when the larger windows were inserted.

The south end of the Transept differs from the north in the arrangement of the windows; in the gable is a low Perpendicular window of seven lights, sunk within a deep recess; the north end has in the upper tier two large Perpendicular windows side by side. There is also a difference in the gable and pinnacles. Some corbels in the lower part of the wall would indicate the former existence of an adjoining structure but what it was we cannot undertake to say.

Considerable anxiety has been felt as to the stability of some portions of the south side, and it has been found necessary to underpin some of the buttresses of the Choir and the walls of the Transept with large slabs of Yorkshire stone. It has also been deemed desirable to circumscribe the two round towers of the south west Transept with iron bands.

The south entrance to the Cathedral is through a portion of the eastern side of the +Cloisters+. The arch of entrance however, does not harmonise with the other portions of the Transept, and was doubtless an insertion, probably at the same time as a similar one in the north Transept, and by the same architect. It passes through a beautiful Norman door-arch in the south wall of the Nave, as described in p. 41. Near this are the remains of an enriched arch, recently discovered when the wall was repaired; if it is in its original position it must have formed a communication from the Cloisters to that portion of the western aisle of the south Transept which now forms the Vergers' vestry.

The south side of the Nave is nearly similar to the north, but there is no corbel table under the embattled parapet of the aisle: the aisle windows have, with one exception, been restored to their original form; those in the second tier retain their altered shape; but those of the clerestory, as on the north side, are original.

The apsidal +Chapel of St. Catharine+, adjoining the south-west Transept, has been rebuilt in accordance with the original structure.

* * * * *

+Dimensions of the Cathedral.+

INTERIOR.
Ft. In.

The Galilee, or Western Portico 42 0

The Tower 40 4

The Nave 208 0

Crossing the Octagon 71 5

The Choir 123 0

Retro-choir 35 10

The whole length, from west to east 520 7

The length of Transept from north to south (including the Octagon) 178 6

Breadth of the Nave with the Aisles 77 3

Breadth of the Transept with the Aisles 73 0

Breadth of the Choir with the Aisles 77 3

Height of the walls of the Nave 72 9

Height of the ceiling from the floor, at the east end of the Nave 86 2

Height of the Pillars which support the Dome and Lantern 62 0

Perpendicular height of the Dome, springing from the capitals of
the pillars, to the aperture of the Lantern 32 0

Height of the Lantern itself, from its aperture on the Dome to its
vaulted roof 48 0

The whole height from the floor to the centre of the Lantern 142 0

Height of the vaulted roof of the Choir 70 0

Clear diameter of the Octagon, from one pillar to the opposite 65 4

Clear diameter of the Lantern, within 30 0

Length of the Lady Chapel (now Trinity Church) 100 0

Breadth of the same 46 0

Height to its vaulted roof 60 0

EXTERIOR.

The whole length, from west to east 537 0

The length of the great Cross, or Transept, from north to south 190 0

Height of the four stone turrets of the western Tower 215 0

Height of the two Towers of the south-west Transept 120 0

Height of the roof over the Nave 104 0

Height of the Lantern over the Dome 170 7

Height of the eastern front, to the top of the Cross 112 0

Having finished our survey of this noble edifice, we will proceed to make a few observations on the remains of the monastery, which will form the subject of a separate chapter. In order to bring them all conveniently before the visitor we will retrace our steps for a short distance round the east end of the Cathedral, and commence with the buildings on the north side of the Lady Chapel.

+The Monastic Buildings.+

_&c. &c._

We will commence our notice of these remains of former ages by observing that as they now, in a great measure, form private residences, they can only be seen by visitors externally; it will be sufficient, therefore, for us to point out the several localities, and state, as far as we are able, their original uses, and present appropriation.

On the north side of the Lady Chapel stands an old square tower, now used as a belfry for the parish of the Holy Trinity, but it is not certain for what purpose it was originally used. Adjoining this is a building recently erected on the site of a former one, comprising a practice-room and school-room for the Choristers, with a residence for the master; beyond this, eastward, is an arched gateway communicating with the public street: this was closed up for many years, but has lately been re-opened; over it is the muniment room of the Dean and Chapter. Next is a residence for one of the Vergers, and beyond that is another dwelling house; the next portion is in a dilapidated state, and at the present time is used as a mason's yard and workshop for carrying on the works in progress: these occupy the site of the ancient +Sacristy+. A little further in the same direction stands the residence of one of the prebendaries, on the site of the ancient +Almonry+; there are in this building some remains of Early English vaulting, and at the east end may be observed the remains of a triplet window of the same period; the middle window has been destroyed by the insertion of a modern window, now blocked up, but the stone work of the side windows can easily be traced.

We next proceed round the east end of the Cathedral to the south end of the Transept, a few yards south of which may be observed a range of Early English arches, each containing a double arch, which is again subdivided, but all have been long blocked up; this was a portion of what was called the "Dark Cloister." To the eastward of these is another range of arches with piers about twelve feet in height, some of which are comparatively perfect; these piers are alternately cylindrical and octagonal, the octagonal columns presenting alternately a side or an angle in front. The arches are profusely enriched with mouldings; the walls above were pierced with a row of small windows with semicircular heads. These piers and arches may be seen on both sides of the road-way, corresponding with each other like the nave of a church, and afford a good example of "highly refined Norman work." A beautiful arch at the end leads to another series, and beyond this, in one of the prebendal houses, is a vaulted room which seems to have been erected about the period of the transition from the Norman style to the Early English.

They form a church-like building, and by some historians have been described as the remains of the Conventual Church erected at the restoration of the monastery by Ethelwold, A.D. 970, and including the ruins of St. Etheldreda's own church, founded A.D. 673. This, if correct, would make it one of the oldest specimens of the Saxon style in the kingdom. This statement has been contradicted by others, and Professor Willis, who had devoted much attention to these buildings, stated that they are the remains of the +Infirmary+ of the monastery, with a chapel attached, and erected many years subsequent to the period mentioned; the portion we have likened to the nave of a church--now affording an approach to several residences--was the body of the Infirmary; the portion east of the arch was no doubt the chapel, and the vaulted room spoken of, the chancel. This statement derives some confirmation from the existence, in a similar position, of the Infirmary at Peterborough, and at some other places. The style of architecture too denotes a period subsequent to the erection of the nave of the Cathedral.

The house on the north side, adjoining the chapel before mentioned, now a prebendal residence, appears to have undergone little alteration since its erection; the parapet, and the almost flat roof covered with lead, appear to be original. This was probably used by the master of the Infirmary as a residence, and a hall to entertain the aged and infirm separately from the sick monks, being near the chapel and the Infirmary. The next house westward, now the residence of a Minor Canon, is said to have been the "Painted Chamber," but to what use it was applied we are not able to say.

The residence on the south side of the Infirmary, opposite to the last mentioned, now the residence of a prebendary, stands on the site of the "Cellarer's Lodging"; and the next house, eastward, also a prebendal residence, on the site of the "Black Hostelry," or near it.

The +Dormitory+ of the monks was generally a long narrow room, standing north and south, near the church, convenient for the monks' attendance on the nocturnal services; here it was situated near what has been pointed out as part of the "Dark Cloister," not far from the south end of the Transept, and probably the communication was by a passage leading to a winding stair still standing in the south-east angle of the Transept.

The +Chapter House+ is believed to have stood between the north end of the Dormitory and the Transept, similar to Peterborough, having its entrance from the east side of the Cloisters; nothing however remains to shew its exact position; both Mr. Bentham and Mr. Millers describe it as having stood on the space now occupied by the Dean's flower garden, where are some remains of a building in the Norman style, but which has since been stated to have been the Monks' kitchen; but in consequence of the many alterations which have been made at different periods, the demolition and removal of some buildings, and the ruin of others, it is difficult to speak with certainty. The monastery was a large one, and the buildings numerous for the various requirements, of many of which no traces remain, nor is it known where they were situated.

The only part remaining of the +Cloisters+ is the north-east angle, through one part of which is the south entrance to the Cathedral. The inner wall of the north side and part of the east side are yet standing, with the openings partially bricked up, but the roof is gone. These are not the original Cloisters, but occupy nearly the same position as the earlier ones.

The +Refectory+, according to Professor Willis and others, stood at the south side of the Cloisters, on part of the space now occupied by the Dean's garden, a portion of a very thick wall, in which are some Early English corbels, is still remaining.

Our attention will next be directed to the Deanery, sometime thought to have been the Refectory, but was more probably the +Guest-hall+ for the entertainment of strangers and others visiting the monastery. It is a large building, standing like several others upon vaults, and appears to have been built in the latter part of the thirteenth century; it has, however, undergone considerable alterations at different times, and now presents but few remains of that period, although the walls, buttresses, and vaults bear strong characteristics of it. This formed the northern side of a small court, around which were buildings forming the residence of the priors of the monastery, of which also the next house, now the residence of a prebendary, formed a part; the vaulting of this is very ancient, probably in the early part of the Norman era, but the superstructure is of a later period. There is a fine fourteenth-century fire place in the house.

Adjoining this house, at the south-west corner, next the garden, stands a building generally known as "+Prior Crauden's Chapel+," having been founded by John de Crauden, prior of Ely (1321-1341), as a private chapel attached to his residence, and built under the direction of Alan de Walsingham, the skilful architect of the Octagon. It is most interesting for the rich remains of architectural beauty which it displays. "It is," says Mr. Rickman, "one of the most curious and valuable Decorated remains in the kingdom; its ornaments are of the best character, and well executed, and the whole design is of great excellence." It belongs to the Deanery, but was for many years used in connection with the adjoining house, having been converted into three rooms by floors inserted; these floors have been removed, and the chapel in some degree restored; some of the windows which had been closed have been re-opened, and the eastern one filled with stained glass, the gift of Mrs. Smart. It is now used as a private chapel for the Grammar School.

The Chapel stands upon a vault, the floor of which is nearly upon a level with the surrounding ground; the vault has a groined ceiling supported by plain columns, and the original entrance was directly under the west window of the Chapel, but is now on the north side. The entrance to the chapel is by a staircase which winds within the buttress at the north-west angle. The length is divided into four compartments by clustered columns, from the tops of which sprung the ribs of the vaulting. The first compartment is plain, and was probably the ante-chapel: the second is ornamented with a double niche, richly decorated with small columns, pinnacles, crockets, &c.; in the lower niche the wall is pierced for a small window; the upper one probably contained a figure: the third and fourth compartments have long pointed windows, separated into two lights by a mullion. The east end has ornamented niches in the angles, it projects a little beyond the compartments, forming a recess, in which is the large window, divided into five lights, with elaborate tracery. The floor is elevated at the east end for the altar, and is formed of mosaic tiles; upon the raised portion is represented the Fall of man, and the remainder is ornamented with various other figures and devices; some portions are nearly perfect, but the colouring is greatly faded. Some remains of fresco painting were discovered on the walls when the restorations were in progress, and probably the chapel had originally been richly embellished with colours and gilding, in the style of the period in which it was built.

We have now an opportunity of glancing at some of the other portions of the monastic buildings, which formerly extended from the Prior's Lodge to the gateway, but are now somewhat short of it, as a garden intervenes.

The first, adjoining the Deanery, formerly the Registry, but originally part of the residence of the former priors, was called "+The Lodge+," and contained the great hall, named "The Fair Hall," the high sharp-pointed windows of which still remain in the first story; from the corner of this hall a gallery or passage led to the prior's chapel just mentioned. This formed the western side of the small court before spoken of, around which the residence of the priors was built. This is now the residence of the Rev. R. Winkfield, Head Master of the Grammar School, and the adjoining house, formerly the school house, is used as a dormitory, &c. for the pupils. Next to this is the residence of the Rev. W.E. Dickson, Minor Canon and Precentor, which brings us to the end of this series of the buildings. These all stand upon vaults or crypts, which were probably used as cellars or store-houses, and the superstructure as lodgings for guests of the prior, being near his residence; these buildings formed the western side of the monastery, and were built about 1180, but raised and altered by Alan de Walsingham, about 1320.

This brings us in our progress to the great gate of the monastery, called "+Ely Porta+," or more frequently, the "Porter's Lodge." It is a large and massive pile, having square towers at the angles, and was begun by Prior Buckton shortly before his death in 1397, and probably finished by his successor, Walpol, as it is sometimes spoken of as "Walpol's Gate." On the eastern side the opening is a single arch of great span, but on the western side there are two, a large one--but smaller than that on the eastern side--for carriages, and a still smaller one for foot passengers. The north end of the building is occupied as the residence of the Porter, who is also a Verger of the Cathedral; the south end with the rooms above, including a large one over the archway, is used for the Cathedral Grammar School, or +King's School+, founded in 1541, by Henry VIII., and is under the control of the Dean and Chapter. The foundation is for twenty-four boys, who are elected without restriction as to birth or residence, and are entitled to some privileges in reduction of school fees. The school has lately been re-modelled by the Dean and Chapter, in order to bring it up to the requirements of the age, and extensive alterations have been made to provide accommodation for boarders.[54] The school is not restricted to the foundation boys, but is open to all who are prepared to accede to the terms, and is now in a flourishing condition.