Chapter I: Front Matter

CHAPTER II

TOOLS, APPLIANCES, AND MATERIALS

Needles--Scissors--Thimbles--Frames--Stand and Frame combined--Tambour Frame--Cord-making Appliance--Requisites for Transferring Patterns--Pricker--Knife--Spindle--Piercer--Materials suitable for Embroidering upon--Threads of all Kinds--Stones, Beads, &c. 34

CHAPTER III

PATTERN DESIGNING

The Difficulties of Pattern Making--A Stock-in-Trade--Some Principles upon which Patterns are Built Up--Spacing-Out--Nature and Convention--Shading--Figure Work--Limitations--Colour 51

CHAPTER IV

STITCHES

Introduction--Chain Stitch--Zigzag Chain--Chequered Chain--Twisted Chain--Open Chain--Braid Stitch--Cable Chain--Knotted Chain--Split Stitch 75

CHAPTER V

STITCHES--(_continued_)

Satin Stitch--Long and Short Stitch--Stem Stitch--Overcast Stitch--Back Stitch--Buttonhole Stitch--Tailor's Buttonhole--Fancy Buttonhole Edgings--Flower in Open Buttonhole Stitch--Leaf in Close Buttonhole Stitches--Petal in Solid Buttonholing 95

CHAPTER VI

STITCHES--(_continued_)

Knots and Knot Stitches--Herring-bone Stitch--Feather Stitch--Basket Stitch--Fishbone Stitch--Cretan Stitch--Roumanian Stitch--Various Insertion Stitches--Picots 118

CHAPTER VII

CANVAS WORK AND STITCHES

Introduction--Samplers--Petit Point Pictures--Cross Stitch--Tent Stitch--Gobelin Stitch--Irish Stitch--Plait Stitch--Two-sided Italian Stitch--Holbein Stitch--Rococo Stitch 147

CHAPTER VIII

METHODS OF WORK

Couching--Braid Work--Laid Work--Applied Work--Inlaid Work--Patch Work
164

CHAPTER IX

METHODS OF WORK--(_continued_)

Quilting--Raised Work--Darning--Open Fillings--Darned Netting 189

CHAPTER X

Methods of work--(_continued_)

Drawn Thread Work--Hem Stitching--Simple Border Patterns--Darned Thread Patterns--Corners--Cut or Open Work--Various Methods of Refilling the Open Spaces 213

CHAPTER XI

EMBROIDERY WITH GOLD AND SILVER THREADS

Introduction--Materials--Precautions for the Prevention of Tarnish--Ancient Method of Couching--Its various Good Points--Description of Working Diagram--Working a Raised Bar--Examples of Patterns Employed in Old Work--Illustrations upon Draped Figures--Usual Method of Couching--Couching Patterns--Outline Work--Raised Work--The Use of Purls, Bullions, &c. 229

CHAPTER XII

LETTERING, HERALDRY, AND EMBLEMS

The Uses of Lettering--Marking--Monograms--Heraldry--Emblems 259

CHAPTER XIII

THE GARNITURE OF WORK

Finishing off--Making up--Edges--Use of Cord-making Appliance--Cord Twisted by Hand--Knotted Cord--Fringes--Tassels--Knots 271

CHAPTER XIV

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS

Transferring Patterns--Paste for Embroidery Purposes--Protection and Preservation of Work--Washing Embroidery--Prevention and Cure of Puckered Work--Points about the Thread--Dressing the Frame 292

PART II

TAPESTRY WEAVING

CHAPTER XV

INTRODUCTION 307

CHAPTER XVI

NECESSARY APPLIANCES AND MATERIALS

The Loom--Mirror--Bobbins and Needles--The Comb--Embroidery Frame treated as a Loom--Warp--Wools--Silk--Gold and Silver Thread 315

CHAPTER XVII

PREPARATIONS FOR WORK

Warping the Loom--Dressing the Coat-Stave--Tracing the Pattern upon the Threads 328

CHAPTER XVIII

THE TECHNIQUE OF WEAVING

Weaving--Commencing and Fastening Off--The Interlocking Stitch--Fine Drawing--Shading--Added After-stitches 339

NOTES ON THE COLLOTYPE PLATES 355

THE COLLOTYPE PLATES 369

INDEX 402