Chapter I: Front Matter

_Eastern Journey- - - - - - - - Western Journey------------_

George Philip & Son London & Liverpool.]

ENGLAND AND CANADA.

A SUMMER TOUR
BETWEEN
OLD AND NEW WESTMINSTER
WITH HISTORICAL NOTES.

BY
SANDFORD FLEMING, C.E., C.M.G., ETC.

MONTREAL:
DAWSON BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS.
1884.

Entered according to Act of Parliament of Canada, in the year 1884,
by SANDFORD FLEMING,
in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture.

GAZETTE PRINTING COMPANY, MONTREAL.

TO

The Right Honourable the Marquis of Lorne, K.T.

G.C.M.G., P.C., &C., &C.,

ONE OF CANADA’S TRUEST AND WARMEST FRIENDS,

WITH SINCERE RESPECT

THIS RECORD OF A JOURNEY FROM THE IMPERIAL CAPITAL TO THE

PACIFIC OCEAN, THROUGH CANADIAN TERRITORY,

IS DEDICATED.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

_INTRODUCTORY._

CHAPTER II.

_HALIFAX TO LIVERPOOL._

Halifax--Cunard Line--Intercolonial Railway--Truro--Travelling
by Pullman--New Brunswick--Miramichi--Great Fires in New
Brunswick--Salmon Fishing--Micmac Indians--Rimouski--S.S.
Parisian--The first Ocean Steamer the Royal William--Incidents
of Ocean Voyage--Arrival. Page 11

CHAPTER III.

_ENGLAND._

Willie Gordon--Custom House Annoyances--Cable Telegram--Post
Office Annoyances--London--Spurgeon’s Tabernacle--An Ancestral
Home--English and United States Hotels--English Reserve--A
Railway Accident--The Land’s End--A Deaf Guest. Page 33

CHAPTER IV.

_ENGLAND (Continued)._

Marquis of Salisbury--Classical Studies--Henley Regatta--Red
Lion--London Dinner to Lord Dufferin--His Speech--Greenwich--
Fisheries Exhibition--Bray--The Vicar--The Thames--Minehead--
The Polynesian. Page 58

CHAPTER V.

_ENGLAND TO CANADA._

The Ocean Voyage--Its Comfort--Moville--Mail Coach Road of Old
Days--Impressive Service on Deck--Comfort on the Vessel--
Rimouski--Halifax. Page 84

CHAPTER VI.

_NOVA SCOTIA._

Early Colonization--De Monts--Champlain--Sir William Alexander--
Capture of Quebec--The Treaties--The Acadian Evangeline--
Louisbourg--First Capture--Peace of Aix la Chapelle--Boundary
Disputes--The Final Struggle--Deportation of the Acadians--
Nova Scotia constituted a Province. Page 102

CHAPTER VII.

_HALIFAX TO QUEBEC._

Home in Halifax--Start for the Pacific--The Intercolonial
Railway--Major Robinson--Old Companions--The Ashburton
Blunder--Quebec--The Provincial Legislature--Champlain--The
Iroquois. Page 119

CHAPTER VIII.

_QUEBEC, MONTREAL, OTTAWA._

Montreal--Ship Channel--Hon. John Young--St. Lawrence Canals--
Indifference of Quebec--Quebec Interests Sacrificed--Need of a
Bridge at Quebec--Montreal Trade in Early Times--Beauty of the
City--Canadian Pacific Railway--Ottawa--The Social Influence
of Government House--Kingston. Page 131

CHAPTER IX.

_TORONTO TO LAKE SUPERIOR._

Toronto--Collingwood--Georgian Bay--The Sault St. Mary--
Navigation of the Great Lakes--Manitoulin Islands--Lake Huron--
Arrival at the Sault. Page 147

CHAPTER X.

_LAKE SUPERIOR TO WINNIPEG._

Lake Superior--Early Discoverers--Joliet and La Salle--
Hennepin--Du Luth--Port Arthur--The Far West--The North-West
Company--Rat Portage--Gold Mining--Winnipeg. Page 161

CHAPTER XI.

_WINNIPEG, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY, LORD SELKIRK._

Early Explorers of the North-West--Du Luth--De la Verendrye--
Mackenzie--Hudson’s Bay Company--Treaty of Utrecht--North-West
Company--Lord Selkirk--War in the North-West--Union of the
Rival Companies--The North-West Annexed to Canada. Page 179

CHAPTER XII.

_WINNIPEG TO CALGARY._

Winnipeg--Great Storm--Portage-la-Prairie--Brandon--Moose Jaw--
Old Wives’ Lakes--The Indians--Maple Creek--Medicine Hat--
Rocky Mountains. Page 201

CHAPTER XIII.

_CALGARY TO THE SUMMIT._

Start for the Mountains--The Cochrane Ranche--Gradual Ascent--
Mount Cascade--Anthracite Coal--Sunday in the Rockies--
Mountain Scenery--The Divide. Page 221

CHAPTER XIV.

_DOWN KICKING-HORSE VALLEY._

The Descent--Summit Lake--The Kicking-Horse River--Singular
Mountain Storms--An Engineering Party--A Beaver Meadow--A
Dizzy Walk. Page 237

CHAPTER XV.

_TO THE SUMMIT OF THE SELKIRKS._

The Eagle Pass--Kicking-horse River--Valley of the Columbia--The
Selkirk Range--The Columbia River--Summit of the Selkirks--
Major Rogers’ Discovery. Page 252

CHAPTER XVI.

_DOWN THE ILLE-CELLE-WAET._

The Descent of the Selkirk Range--Glaciers--The Last of our
Horses--Devil’s Clubs--The Ille-celle-waet--A Rough Journey--
A Mountain Storm--Slow Progress--A Roaring Torrent--Skunk
Cabbage--Marsh--A Long Ten Miles’ Journey. Page 271

CHAPTER XVII.

_DOWN THE ILLE-CELLE-WAET.--Continued._

A Difficult March--Cariboo Path--Organization of Advance--
Passing Through the Canyon--Timber Jam--A Gun-shot heard--
The Columbia again--Indians--Disappointment--The Question of
Supplies becomes Urgent--No Relief Party Found--Suspense. Page 284

CHAPTER XVIII.

_THROUGH THE EAGLE PASS._

The Kamloops Men at Last--No Supplies--On Short Allowance--An
Indian Guide--Bog-wading--The Summit of the Pass--Bluff Lake--
Victoria Bluff--Three Valley Lake--Eagle River--Shooting
Salmon--The _Cached_ Provisions--Pack-horses again--Road
Making--The South Thompson--Indian Ranches. Page 295

CHAPTER XIX.

_KAMLOOPS TO THE COAST._

Lake Kamloops--Savona’s Ferry--Irrigation--Chinese Navvies--
Chinese Servants--Lytton--The Fraser River Canyon--Old
Engineering Friends--Sunday at Yale--Paddling Down the Fraser--
An English Fog at New Westminster. Page 311

CHAPTER XX.

_ON PACIFIC WATERS._

New Westminster--Enormous Forest Trees--English Broom--Port
Moody--Down Burrard Inlet--Sea Fog--Navigation by Echo--
Straits of Georgia--The St. Juan Archipelago--Seamanship--
Victoria. Page 329

CHAPTER XXI.

_BRITISH COLUMBIA._

Sir Francis Drake--Mears--Vancouver--Astor--Hudson’s Bay
Company--Gold Discoveries--Climate--Timber--Fisheries--
Minerals--Mountain Scenery. Page 340

CHAPTER XXII.

_HOME BY THE NORTHERN PACIFIC._

Puget Sound--The Columbia--Portland--Oregon and San Juan
Disputes--Arid Country--Mountain Summits--The Yellowstone--
The Missouri--The Red River--Chicago--Standard Time Meeting--
The British Association--Home. Page 355

CHAPTER XXIII.

_THE INDIANS._

Indian Population--The Government Policy--Indian Instincts--The
Hudson’s Bay Company--Fidelity and Truthfulness of Indians--
Aptitude for Certain Pursuits--The Future of the Red Man. Page 380

CHAPTER XXIV.

_THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY._

Rapid Construction--Travelling Old and New--Beginning of Pacific
Railway--Difficulties--Party Warfare--The Line North of Lake
Superior--The United States Government--Mountain Passes--Soil
and Climate--National Parks--Pacific Terminus. Page 394

CHAPTER XXV.

_CONCLUSION._

England and Canada--Old and New Colonial Systems--Political
Exigencies--The High Commissioners--Lord Lorne’s Views--The
Future--The French Element in Canada--Colonial Federation--The
Larger Union. Page 420

ENGLAND AND CANADA.