Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber’s Note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

ENGLISH HOURS

BY HENRY JAMES

ENGLISH HOURS

BY HENRY JAMES

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
BY JOSEPH PENNELL

BOSTON AND NEW YORK
HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY
The Riverside Press, Cambridge

COPYRIGHT 1875 1883 BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO.
COPYRIGHT 1893 BY HARPER & BROTHERS
COPYRIGHT 1905 BY HOUGHTON MIFFLIN & CO.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

_Published October 1905_

NOTE

The papers gathered into this series, originally published in various periodicals, have already been reprinted—the earliest in date more than thirty years ago; the others, with the exception of two, more recently, in a volume entitled “Portraits of Places.” They have been here once more placed together, for the great advantage they will be felt to derive from the company and support of Mr. Pennell’s illustrations. Each article is marked with its date, and it is obvious that the impressions and observations they for the most part embody had sprung from an early stage of acquaintance with their general subject-matter. They represent a good many wonderments and judgments and emotions, whether felicities or mistakes, the fine freshness of which the author has—to his misfortune, no doubt—sufficiently outlived. But they may perhaps on that very account present something of a curious interest. I may add that I have again attentively looked them over, with a view to any possible amendment of their form or enhancement of their meaning, and that I have nowhere scrupled to rewrite a sentence or a passage on judging it susceptible of a better turn.

1905. H. J.

CONTENTS

LONDON 1

BROWNING IN WESTMINSTER ABBEY 51

CHESTER 61

LICHFIELD AND WARWICK 77

NORTH DEVON 93

WELLS AND SALISBURY 107

AN ENGLISH EASTER 121

LONDON AT MIDSUMMER 153

TWO EXCURSIONS 175

IN WARWICKSHIRE 197

ABBEYS AND CASTLES 225

ENGLISH VIGNETTES 245

AN ENGLISH NEW YEAR 269

AN ENGLISH WATERING-PLACE 277

WINCHELSEA, RYE AND “DENIS DUVAL” 287

OLD SUFFOLK 317

⁂ _The chapters on “London” and “Browning in Westminster Abbey” are reprinted by permission of Messrs. Harper and Brothers from Mr. James’s “Essays in London and Elsewhere.” The chapter on “Winchelsea, Rye, and ‘Denis Duval,’” originally appeared in “Scribner’s Magazine.”_

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

_A Tower on the Walls, Chester_ _Half-title_

_Magdalen Tower, Oxford_ (_see p. 189_) _Frontispiece_

_The Gate-House, Cambridge_ _Title_

_The Senate House, Oxford_ v

_Peterhouse Quad, Cambridge_ vii

_The Medway and Rochester Keep_ ix

_Richmond, from the Thames_ 1

_St. Paul’s, from Ludgate Hill_ 6

_Entrance to St. James’s Park, Duke of York’s Column_ 16

_In the Green Park_ 22

_St. Paul’s, from the Water_ 40

_The Terrace, Richmond_ 42

_North Door of the Abbey_ 51

_The Abbey, from Victoria Street_ 54

_Eaton Hall_ 61

_Chester High Street_ 64

_The Rows, Chester_ 68

_Chester Cathedral, West Front_ 72

_Shrewsbury_ 76

_Haddon Hall_ 77

_Lichfield Cathedral_ 80

_The Three Spires of Lichfield_ 82

_Warwick Castle_ 88

_Haddon Hall, from the Road_ 91

_Lynmouth_ 93

_A Devonshire Lane_ 94

_The Norman Towers of Exeter_ 98

_Porlock Church, Exmoor_ 105

_The West Front, Wells_ 107

_The Market-Place, Wells_ 112

_Salisbury Cathedral_ 116

_Stonehenge_ 118

_Glastonbury_ 120

_The Abbey and Victoria Tower, from St. James’s
Park_ 121

_Dark Mysterious London. Near Queen Anne’s Gate,
Westminster_ 126

_In St. James’s Park_ 130

_Baker Street_ 134

_Canterbury, from the Meadows_ 140

_Rochester Castle_ 144

_The Cathedral Close, Canterbury_ 148

_The Nave, Canterbury_ 150

_The Great Tower, Canterbury_ 152

_Greenwich Observatory_ 153

_Piccadilly, near Devonshire House_ 156

_The Ship, Greenwich_ 162

_Kensington Gardens_ 166

_Greenwich Park_ 173

_Epsom Heath, Derby Day_ 175

_The Start for the Derby_ 180

_The Finish of the Derby_ 184

_On the Downs, Derby Day_ 196

_Kenilworth_ 197

_Stratford-on-Avon Church_ 208

_Charlecote Park_ 214

_The Hospital, Warwick_ 223

_Ludlow Castle_ 225

_Ludlow Castle, from the Moat_ 234

_Stokesay Castle_ 240

_Ludlow Tower_ 243

_Portsmouth Harbor, and “The Victory”_ 245

_Shanklin_ 254

_Chichester Cross_ 260

_Abbey Gateway, Bury St. Edmunds_ 264

_Trinity Gate, Cambridge_ 267

_The Workhouse_ 269

_A Factory Town at Night_ 272

_A Factory Town_ 275

_The Parade, Hastings_ 277

_The Front, Brighton_ 280

_A Crescent, Hastings_ 286

_Winchelsea High Street_ 287

_Rye, from Winchelsea Gate_ 290

_Rye, from the Winchelsea Road_ 296

_Rye, from the Marshes_ 300

_The Sandgate, Rye_ 308

_A Street in Rye_ 315

_FitzGerald’s House_ 317

_In Old Suffolk_ 326

_A Suffolk Common_ 330

ENGLISH HOURS

LONDON