Chapter I: Front Matter

Etext transcriber's note: The footnotes have been located after the etext. Corrections of some obvious typographical errors have been made (a list follows the etext); the spellings of several words currently spelled in a different manner have been left un-touched. (i.e. chesnut/chestnut; every thing/everything; Our's/Ours; Codoba/Cordoba; sanitory/sanitary; your's/yours; janty/jaunty; visiters/visitors; negociation/negotiation.) The accentuation of words in Spanish has not been corrected or normalized.

_On Stone by T. J. Rawlins from a Sketch by Capt C. R. Scott_

_R. Martin lithog 26, Long Acre_

_Published by Henry Colburn, 13 Great Marlborough St._]

EXCURSIONS

IN THE

MOUNTAINS

OF

RONDA AND GRANADA,

WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES
OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN.

BY

CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT,

AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA."

"_Aqui hermano Sancho, podemos meter las manos
hasta los codos, en esto que llaman aventuras._"
DON QUIJOTE.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1838.

LONDON:

F. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET.

CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Cordoba--Post Road to Cadiz--Carlota--Ecija--Carmona--Road from Ecija to Gibraltar--Locusts--Osuna--Saucejo--An Olla in perfection--Ronda--Splendid Scenery on the road to Grazalema--Distant View of Zahara--Grazalema--Extensive Prospect from the Pass of Bozal--Secluded Orchards of Benamajama--Pajarete--El Broque--Ubrique--Difficult Road across the Mountains to Ximena--Our Guide in a rage--Fine Scenery--Ximena--Strength of its Castle--Road to Gibraltar 1

CHAPTER II.

Departure for Cadiz--Road round the Bay of Gibraltar--Algeciras--Sandy Bay--Gualmesi--Tarifa--Its Foundation--Error of Mariana in supposing it to be Carteia--Battle of El Salado--Mistake of La Martiniere concerning it--Itinerary of Antoninus from Carteia to Gades verified--Continuation of Journey--Ventas of Tavilla and Retin--Vejer--Conil--Spanish Method of Extracting Good from Evil--Tunny Fishery--Barrosa--Field of Battle--Chiclana--Road to Cadiz--Puente Zuazo--San Fernando--Temple of Hercules--Castle of Santi Petri--Its Importance to Cadiz 33

CHAPTER III.

Cadiz--Its Foundation--Various Names--Past Prosperity--Made a Free Port in the hope of ruining the trade of Gibraltar--Unjust Restrictions on the Commerce of the British Fortress--Description of Cadiz--Its vaunted Agremens--Society--Monotonous Life--Cathedral--Admirably built Sea Wall--Naval Arsenal of La Carraca--Road to Xeres--Puerto Real--Puerto de Santa Maria--Xeres--Its Filth--Wine Stores--Method of Preparing Wine--Doubts of the Ancient and Derivation of the Present Name of Xeres--Carthusian Convent--Guadalete--Battle of Xeres 64

CHAPTER IV.

Choice of Roads to Seville--By Lebrija--Mirage--The Marisma--Post Road--Cross Road by Los Cabezas and Los Palacios--Difficulty of Reconciling any of these Routes with that of the Roman Itinerary--Seville--General Description of the City--The Alameda--Display of Carriages--Elevation of the Host--Public Buildings--The Cathedral--Lonja--American Archives--Alcazar--Casa Pilata--Royal Snuff Manufactory--Cannon Foundry--Capuchin Convent--Murillo--Theatre of Seville--Observations on the State of the National Drama--Moratin--The Bolero--Spanish Dancing--The Spaniards not a Musical People 90

CHAPTER V.

Society of Seville--Spanish Women--Faults of Education--Evils of Early Marriages, and Marriages de Convenance--Environs of Seville--Triana--San Juan De Alfarache Santi Ponce--Ruins of Italica--Italica not so ancient a City as Hispalis--Young Pigs and the Muses--Departure from Seville--The Marques De Las Amarillas--Weakness, Deceit, and Injustice of the Late King of Spain--Alcala De Guadiara--Utrera--Observations on the Strategical Importance of this Town--Moron--Military operations of Riego--Apathy of the Serranos during the Civil War--Olbera--Remarks on the Itinerary of Antoninus 123

CHAPTER VI.

Ronda to Gaucin--Road to Casares--Difficulty in Procuring Lodgings--Finally Overcome--The Cura's House--View of the Town from the Ruins of the Castle--Its Great Strength--Ancient Name--Ideas of the Spaniards regarding Protestants--Scramble to the Summit of the Sierra Cristellina--Splendid View--Jealousy of the Natives in the matter of Sketching--The Cura and his Barometer--Departure for the Baths of Manilba--Romantic Scenery--Accommodation for Visiters--The Master of the Ceremonies--Roads to San Roque and Gibraltar--River Guadiaro and Venta 154

CHAPTER VII.

The Baths of Manilba--A Specimen of Fabulous History--Properties of the Hedionda--Society of the Bathing Village--Remarkable Mountain--An English Botanist--Town of Manilba--An Intrusive Visiter--Ride to Estepona--Return by way of Casares 179

CHAPTER VIII.

A Shooting Party to the Mountains--Our Italian Piqueur, Damien Berrio--Some Account of his Previous Life--Los Barrios--The Beautiful Maid, and the Maiden's Levelling Sire--Road to Sanona--Reparation against Bandits--Arrival at the Caseria--Description of its Owner and Accommodations--Fine Scenery--A Batida 202

CHAPTER IX.

Luis de Castro 226

CHAPTER X.

Don Luis's Narrative is interrupted by a Boar--The Batida resumed--Departure from Sanona--Road to Casa Vieja--The Priest's House--Adventure with Itinerant Wine-Merchants--Departure from Casa Vieja--Alcala De Los Gazules--Road to Ximena--Return to Gibraltar 249

CHAPTER XI.

Departure for Madrid--Cordon drawn round the Cholera--Ronda--Road to Cordoba--Teba--Erroneous Position of the Place on the Spanish Maps--Its Locality agrees with that of Ategua, as described by Hirtius, and the Course of the River Guadaljorce with that of the Salsus--Road to Campillos--The English-loving Innkeeper and his Wife--An Alcalde's Dinner spoilt--Fuente De Piedra--Astapa--Puente Don Gonzalo--Rambla--Cordoba--Meeting with an old Acquaintance 267

CHAPTER XII.

History of Blas El Guerrillero--_continued_ 294

CHAPTER XIII.

Unforeseen Difficulties in Proceeding to Madrid--Death of King Ferdinand--Change in our Plans--Road to Andujar--Alcolea--Montoro--Porcuna--Andujar--Arjono--Torre Ximeno--Difficulty of Gaining Admission--Success of a Stratagem--Consternation of the Authorities--Spanish Adherence to Forms--Contrasts--Jaen--Description of the Castle, City, and Cathedral--La Santa Faz--Road to Granada--Our Knightly Attendant--Parador de San Rafael--Hospitable Farmer--Astonishment of the Natives--Granada--El Soto de Roma--Loja--Venta de Dornejo--Colmenar--Fine Scenery--Road from Malaga to Antequera, and Description of that City 325

CHAPTER XIV.

Malaga--Excursion of Marbella and Monda--Churriana--Benalmania--Fuengirola--Discrepancy of Opinion respecting the Site of Suel--Scale to be adopted, in order to make the measurements given in the Itinerary of Antoninus agree with the Actual Distance from Malaga to Carteia--Errors of Carter--Castle of Fuengirola--Road to Marbella--Tower and Casa Fuertes--Disputed Site of Salduba--Description of Marbella--Abandoned Mines--Distance to Gibraltar 363

CHAPTER XV.

A Proverb not to be lost sight of whilst travelling in Spain--Road to Monda--Secluded Valley of Ojen--Monda--Discrepancy of Opinion respecting the Site of the Roman City of Munda--Ideas of Mr. Carter on the Subject--Reasons adduced for concluding that Modern Monda occupies the Site of the Ancient City--Assumed Positions of the Contending Armies of Cneius Pompey and Cæsar, in the Vicinity of the Town--Road to Malaga--Towns of Coin and Alhaurin--Bridge over the Guadaljorce--Return to Gibraltar--Notable Instance of the Absurdity of Quarantine Regulations 382

CHAPTER XVI.

The Knight of San Fernando 410

APPENDIX 439

EXCURSIONS

IN THE

MOUNTAINS

OF

RONDA AND GRANADA.