Chapter V

Silver mines of Sicasica—Productions of the Puna, or
Table lands—An exile returning home—Department
of Oruro—Silver, copper, and tin—Climate—A
chicha factorer—The expedition out of Titicaca
Basin, and into Madeira Plate—Department of
Potosi—Population, climate, and productions—Rio
Pilcomayo—Mint—Quicksilver trade—Imperfect
mining operations—Smuggling of precious
metals—Statistics of silver—Trade with the
Argentine confederation—Port of Cobija—Desert of
Atacama—Eastern side of the Andes—Frosty mountain
tops and thermal streams—A washwoman—Cinchona
bark ascending to the South Pacific—Department
of Cochabamba—Increase of Creoles—Incas colony of
Quichua Indians—Hail storm—Gardens—Fig trees—City
of Cochabamba—Hospitality of the merchants—The
President of Bolivia and his cabinet—Commercial
proposition—Brazilian minister—President
Belzu—Cavalry and infantry—Armor of the Bolivian
troops—Public force—Calacala gardens—Market
people—Rio Mamoré—Legislative power—Church
ceremony—Climate—A bishop's opinion of the
consequences of steamboat navigation—Cabinet
ministers—Reception of a Farmer by the
President—Heavy shock of an earthquake—Sudden
departure of the government—Clisa fair—Trade to the
Pacific coast. 121

CHAPTER VI.

Market place—Cinchona bark—Funeral
ceremonies—Longevity—Kindness of British and
Brazilian ministers—French schoolmistresses—Ancient
habitations—Sucre, the capital—Departments of
Chuquisaca and Tarija—River Bermejo—Distribution
of vegetable life—Visit to Lake Uara-Uara—Snow
line—Balls—Theatre—Department of Santa
Cruz—Creole population—Daily life—Province of
Chiquitos—Indians—Labors of the Jesuits—Paraguay
river. 146

CHAPTER VII.

Diamonds—Animals of Chiquitos—Decree of 1837, and act
of Congress—Señor Oliden's voyage on the
Paraguay river—Salt—Fall of trees—Descending
the mountains—Monkey meat—Coca plant—Espiritu
Santo—Creole workmen—A night in the wild
woods—Yuracares hunting—River San Mateo—Province of
Yuracares. 169

CHAPTER VIII.

Cinchona forests—Indians shooting fish—Department of
the Beni—Vinchuta—Small pox—Canichanas boat's
crew—Cotton cloth and silver coins—Our faithful
servant José Casas and the mules—Trade at Vinchuta—A
night on Coni creek—Embarkation at the base of
the Andes—Chaparé river—Canoe life—Floods—Bark
cloth—Pick up the sick—Indians at prayers in the
wilderness—Lassoing an alligator. 193

CHAPTER IX.

Pass the mouth of Chimoré river—White cranes—Rio
Mamoré—Woodbridge's Atlas—Night watch—"Masi"
guard-house—Pampas—Ant-houses—Cattle—Religion—Sugar
cane—Fishing party of Mojos Indians—River
Ybaré—Pampas of Mojos—Pasture lands—City of
Trinidad—Prefect—Housed in Mojos—Don Antonio de
Barras Cordoza—Population of the Beni—Cotton
Manufactures—Productions—Trade—Don Antonio's
Amazonian boats—Jesuits—Languages—Natural
intelligence of the Aborigines—Paintings—Cargoes of
foreign goods in the plaza. 218

CHAPTER X.

Horned cattle and horses—"Peste"—Salt trade—Church
service—Bull fight—Mariano Cuyaba—Rules and
regulations of the town—Laws and customs of the
Creoles—A walk through the plaza at midnight—Scenes
on the road to the town of Loreto—Annual deluge—The
beasts, birds, and fishes—Loreto—Inhabitants—Grove
of tamarind trees—Winds of the Madeira Plate—A
bird-hunter—Trapiche—A black tiger burnt
out—Departure in Brazilian boats—Enter the Mamoré
river again—An Indian overboard. 240

CHAPTER XI.

Exaltacion—Cayavabo Indians—Descending the Mamoré
river—Indians shooting fish—Houbarayos savages and
birds at midnight—Ascend the Itenez river—Forte do
Principe da Beira, in Brazil—Negro soldiers—Kind
attention of the commandante—Favorable notice of
the expedition by the President of Matto Grosso—The
wilderness—Friendship of Don Antonio, his boat, and
a crew of negro soldiers—Departure for the Madeira
river—Birds and fishes congregated at the mouth
of the Itenez—On the Mamoré river again—A negro
soldier's account of the Emperor's service—Roar of
"Guajará-merim" Falls. 263

CHAPTER XII.

Jacares savages—Mouth of the Beni river—Obstructions to
steamboat navigation—Madeira river falls—Lighten the
boat—Pot holes—Granite—Pedreneira falls—Caripuna
savages—Pedro milks a savage woman—Bilious
fever—Arrive at the foot of San Antonio falls—The
impracticability of navigating by steamboats the
falls of the Mamoré and Madeira rivers—Proposed road
through the territory of Brazil to Bolivia—Physical
strength of the white, black, and red men, compared
under a tropical climate—Tamandua island—Turtle
eggs—Oil-hunters—Borba—Mouth of the Madeira river. 287