Chapter IV: Part 4

Tuesday, 7th June, The Neale. At 8 o'clock started on a bearing of 180 degrees for the northernmost of the isolated hills, to see if there are springs round it. At four miles ascended it, but could see no springs. This I have named Mount Harvey, after J. Harvey, Esquire, M.L.A. from Mount Kingston it bears 47 degrees 45 minutes. Thence I started for the other mount, which I have named Mount Dutton, after the Honourable F.T. Dutton; four miles and a half to the top. The Hanson range is closing upon my course, and I think to-morrow's journey will cut it. On the north side are a few springs, some of them a little brackish, and some very good. We cleared out one, and found it very good. Here I camped for the night. From south-west to north-west it seems to be an immense plain, stony on the surface, with salt bush and grass. Mount Dutton is well grassed to the top; it is composed of the same rock as the others.

Wednesday, 8th June, Mount Dutton. at 9.15 started on a course of 310 degrees. At three-quarters of a mile passed another batch of springs, some of them brackish, and some very good indeed. Leaving them we passed over a good feeding country, crossing several gum and myall creeks, one with polyganum, all coming from Hanson range and flowing into the Neale. At nine miles crossed the top of Hanson range. From it I could see, about fifteen miles to the west of north, a high point of this range, which I have named Mount O'Halloran (after the Honourable Major O'Halloran), on the west side of which there appears to be a large creek coming from the north-west. We then proceeded on a course of 324 degrees towards Mount O'Halloran. At four miles and a half struck a large gum creek coming from the range and running for about four miles north-west on our course; examined it for water, but found none. It divides itself into numerous channels, and when full must retain a large quantity of water for a long time. The gum-trees are large and numerous, and numbers of pigeons frequent its banks. At a mile further came upon some rain water in a stony flat, where we camped for the night between low sand rises covered with grass.

Thursday, 9th June, Stony Flat. This country must be examined today for springs. I have therefore sent Muller down the creek to search that, whilst I must remain and get an observation of the sun. My party is far too small to examine the country well. I cannot go myself and leave the camp with the provisions to one man; the natives might attack him, and destroy the lot, there seem to be a great many tracks about. Three o'clock. Muller has returned; he has run the creek down until it joined another very large gum creek coming from the north-west--the one that I saw from the top of the range. The gum-trees were large; from one of them the natives had cut a large sheet of bark, evidently for a canoe. He also saw two large water holes, one hundred yards wide and a quarter of a mile long, with very high and steep banks. It seems to be the same creek as the Neale. Can it be Cooper's Creek? the country very much resembles it. My course will strike it more to the north-west to-morrow.

Friday, 10th June, Same Place. I have been very unwell during the night with cramp in the stomach, but hope I shall get better as I go on. Started at 8 o'clock on a bearing of 32 degrees 4 minutes. At four miles went to the top of Mount O'Halloran. The creek is about three miles to the west; it breaks through the Hanson range. Changed my course to 317 degrees to get away from the stones, which are very rough close to the hill. At six miles changed my course to 270 degrees to examine an isolated hill for springs, but found none. The creek winds round this hill, and spreads out into numerous channels, covering a space of two miles; but there is no water here, nor for three miles further up the creek. We have, however, found some rain water; and, as I feel so unwell that I am unable to ride, I have camped here for the night, and sent Muller to examine the creek for water. He has been unsuccessful.

Saturday, 11th June, Rain Water. I feel a little better this morning. Started at 9.20 on a bearing of 317 degrees. Crossed the creek, which is about a mile wide. For five miles it ran parallel to my course, and then turned more to the west. There is a beautiful plain along the bank, about three miles wide, and completely covered with grass. At nine miles and a half, on a small rise, changed my course to 318 degrees 30 minutes, to a distant hill. Travelled for nine miles and a half over another large and well-grassed plain of the same description; thence over some low stony hills to a myall flat, the soil beautiful, of a red colour, covered with grass; after four miles it became sandy. Camped for the night, after having gone thirty-one miles. The country of to-day surpasses all that I have yet travelled over for the abundance of feed. We have passed a number of native tracks, but only one or two are fresh. We have found no water to-day, except some little rain water, which is nearly all mud. I have no doubt but there is plenty towards the east.

Sunday, 12th June, Myall Flat. I feel still very unwell. We are now come to our last set of shoes for the horses, and, having experienced the misery of being without them in my previous journey, I am, though with great reluctance, forced to turn back. My party is also too small to make a proper examination of such splendid country. Started back, keeping more to the east to examine a high hill in search of water. If I can find water, I shall endeavour to reach the north boundary. At 11.40 arrived at the hill. Latitude, 27 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds. Can see no appearance of water, although the country seems good all round. Ten degrees to the east of north is a large dark-coloured hill, which I saw from last night's camp, from fifteen to twenty miles distant. I should like to go to it, but can find no water. I have named it Mount Browne, after Mr. J.H. Browne, of Port Gawler, my companion in Captain Sturt's expedition. I dare not risk the horses another night without water, the grass is so very dry; had there been green grass, I would not have hesitated a moment. Turned towards the Neale by a different course to try and find water; was unsuccessful until within an hour of sundown, when we struck some muddy water. As I expected, the horses were very thirsty and devoured the lot. Reached the creek after dark.

Monday, 13th June, The Neale. Found some rain water on the bank of the creek, and, two of the horses requiring shoes, I stopped for the day. At noon sent Muller up the creek to see if he could find any water holes, but he saw none. At six miles another creek coming from the south-west joins this. I am afraid I shall not have enough shoes to carry me into the settled districts. The creek does not seem to have been running for a number of years. The water has, some time or other, been ten feet high. The breadth of the plain where the channels flow is a mile and a half, and the quantity of water must be immense. It drains a very large extent of country. After examining the country during the next two or three days, I shall endeavour to follow this creek down, and learn where it empties itself.

Tuesday, 14th June, The Neale. Started at 9 o'clock. Running the creek down. At eight miles crossed another branch of the creek coming from the south of west. We found no water. At twelve miles changed my bearing to south. At three miles and a half camped at the two water holes that Muller found when I sent him to examine the creek on the 9th instant. I can not with certainty say they are permanent, there are neither reeds nor rushes round them; they are very large and very deep, and, when filled with rain, must hold a large quantity of water for a long time. There are ducks upon them. The water does not taste like rain water, which leads me to think that it may be permanent and supplied by springs from below.

Wednesday, 15th June, Water Holes found by Muller on the 9th. Started at 9.15 a.m. Following the creek down. As we approached Hanson range, where it broke through, we came upon two nice water holes with ducks upon them. They are long, wide, and deep, with clay banks, and about three feet of water in the middle. There are no reeds nor rushes round them, and it is doubtful whether they are permanent. At seven miles and a half the creek winds a little more to the west. Shortly afterwards we struck (in the gap) two very long and large water holes a quarter of a mile long, and between forty and fifty yards wide, and very deep. These I may safely say are permanent. After getting through the range, the creek spreads out over a large plain in numerous courses, bearing towards the south-east. At four miles and a half changed my course. At six miles, going more to the east, changed again, and at eight miles camped for the night, without water. We have found no water since leaving the last water hole, although I do not doubt of there being some. It would have taken us too long a time to examine it more than I have done, my party being so small. We have passed several winter worleys of the natives, built with mud in the shape of a large beehive, with a small hole as the entrance. Numerous tracks all about the creek, but we see no natives. We are now approaching the spring country again.

Thursday, 16th June, The Neale. Started at 11.15. Still following the creek, which continues to spread widely over the plain. At five miles I observed some white patches of ground on the south-west side of Mount Dutton, resembling a batch of springs. I changed my course and steered for them, crossing the Neale at two miles and three-quarters. On the south-west side of the Neale the country is rather stony, and for about a mile from it the feed is not very good, in consequence of its being subject to inundation, but beyond that the feed is beautiful. At three miles and a half made the white patches, and found them to be springs covering a large extent of country, but not so active as those already described. Leaving the springs at two miles, crossed the Neale at a place where it becomes narrower and the channel much deeper, with long sheets of salt and brackish water. I shall now leave the creek. In the time of a flood an immense body of water must come down it. At the widest part, where it spreads itself out in the plain, the drift stuff is from fourteen to fifteen feet up in the trees. Camped at 4 p.m.

Friday, 17th June, The Neale. Discovered another large quantity of water supplied by springs. This country is a wonderful place for them. There is an immense quantity of water running now.

Saturday, 18th June, The Neale. Started early in the morning to examine the country. Found large quantities of quartz, samples of which I brought with me. Still well watered, but without any timber.

Sunday, 19th June, The Neale. Water in abundance, with large quantities of quartz. The course the quartz seems to take is from the south-west to the north-east. The plain we examined to-day is a large basin, surrounded by the hills from Mount Younghusband and Mount Kingston, with the creek running through the centre. To-morrow I shall have a look along the north-east side of Mount Kingston, for I see the quartz apparently goes through the range and breaks out again on the north-east side, which is very white.

Monday, 20th June, Mount Kingston. Started at 8 o'clock a.m. to examine the quartz on the east side of Mount Kingston. Crossed the creek, and at three miles struck a quartz reef. The Freeling Springs still continue, but seem inclined to run more to the eastward. Changed my course to a peak in a low range which has a white appearance. At eight miles reached the peak; the quartz ceases altogether, and the country is stony from here. I can see the line of the Neale running eastward; it spreads out over the plain. It was my intention to follow it until it reached the lake, but I find the ground too stony for me to do so. Being reduced to my last set of shoes, and some of them pretty well worn out, I am obliged to retreat. Changed my course at seven miles across the bed of the creek, three miles broad, with a number of brackish water holes in it, some very salt. At this point the trees cease. I can see nothing of the lake. Camped on a gum creek without water. The latter part of our course was over a very barren and rotten plain, surrounded by cliffs of gypsum, quite destitute of vegetation. It has evidently been the bed of a small lake at some time. There is no salt about it.

Tuesday, 21st June, Dry Gum Creek. At 7.40 started on the same course as last night, and after various changes of bearings arrived at the hill, whither I had sent Muller, and where he found two springs. Instead of two, they are numerous all round the hill; some are without water on the surface, and others have plenty. It is a perfect bed of springs. A little more east they are stronger, surrounded with green reeds and rushes.

Wednesday, 22nd June, Mount Younghusband. Started at 8.40. At three miles and a half came to a large bed of springs with reeds and rushes, water running and good, with numerous other small springs all round. They are a continuation of those we camped at last night, with an abundant supply of excellent water. At four miles crossed the salt creek coming from Hawker Springs. At eight miles crossed three salt and soda lagoons, surrounded by lime and gypsum mounds, in which are numerous springs up to the foot of the hills (ten miles and a half) and all round them. I have named these hills Parry Hills, after Samuel Parry, Esquire. It was my intention to have gone to the east from this, but the horses' shoes will not admit of it. To the south-east I observed three conical hills, for which I will now steer. At seven miles crossed a gum creek, in which are large water holes, where water had been lately, but there is now only mud. There must be water either up or down the creek, for there are numerous native tracks leading both ways. At ten miles crossed a large gum (stunted) creek with abundant springs of rather brackish water. At nineteen miles and a half camped on a broad creek, but no water. The country good.

Thursday, 23rd June, Dry Creek. Started at 8.30 on the same course for one of the conical hills. At three miles ascended it, and found it to be flat-topped. I can see nothing of any lake to the east. The view is interrupted by a flat-topped range. From this I changed my course, and at three miles and a half observed a peculiar-looking spot to the south-west, which had the appearance of springs. Changed my course for it, and at six miles came upon a hill of springs surrounded by a number of smaller ones, with an ample supply of first-rate water. The hill is covered with reeds and rushes; it is situated at the west side of a large plain, and is bounded by stony table land on the east side, which has an abrupt descent of about thirty feet into the plain. On the west side are a number of broken hills, and a small range composed of gypsum and lime, having the surface covered with fragments of quartz and ironstone, and a number of other pebbles. On the hill where the springs are we have found lava. There are numerous small creeks coming from the hill, and running in every direction. They seem to be all in confusion. The plain is about five miles wide. These I have named the Louden Springs.

Friday, 24th June, Louden Springs. I must remain here to-day, and put the last of the shoes upon some of the horses which are getting rather lame. I have been making them go without as long as I can.

Saturday, 25th June, Louden Springs. Started at 7.50. At 8.45 (three miles) crossed a gum creek, and at 12 o'clock (eleven miles) crossed the Douglas, but no water. The channel still broad and sandy.

Sunday, 26th June, The Douglas. Started at 8.25, on a bearing of 217 degrees. Crossed the lagoon, which was rather boggy in some places. It is now more than two miles broad, with a white crust on the top, composed of soda and salt, but mostly salt. It must be supplied by springs. At three miles crossed a salt creek, with salt water. It empties itself into the lagoon, and is the same that passes by the Strangway Springs. I can see nothing of any springs at this part of the creek. Steered upon the same course to intersect my outward tracks. Saw some natives walking along a valley. They did not observe us. I hailed them, and an old man came up to us. He was rather frightened, and trembled a good deal. He seemed to wonder and be pleased at my smoking a pipe of tobacco. I gave one to him and a piece of tobacco, but he did not know how to manage the cutting, filling, and lighting operations. I did these for him. In the first attempt he put the wrong end into his mouth, which he found rather hot, and quickly took it out. I then showed him the right end. He managed a whiff or two, but he did not fancy it. He seemed very much pleased with the pipe, which he kept. I then made him understand that I wanted water. He pointed the same course that I was steering. In a short time another made his appearance in the distance. By a little persuasion from the old fellow, he was induced to come up, and in a short time became very talkative, and very anxious to show us the water. In a few minutes a third made his appearance, and came up. He was the youngest--a stout, able-bodied fellow, about twenty-four years old. The others were much older, but were very powerful men, and all three in excellent condition. The women did not come up, but remained in the flat. I expected they were going to take us to some springs, and was disappointed when they showed us some rain water in a deep hole. They were quite surprised to see our horses drink it all. They would go no further with us, nor show us any more, and, in a short time after, left us. We struck our outward tracks, and steered for the Elizabeth Springs, where we arrived after dark.

Monday, 27th June, Elizabeth Springs. Gave the horses a half-day, and made the Mount Hamilton Springs in the afternoon.

Tuesday, 28th June, Hamilton Springs. Started for Chambers Creek to my first encampment. Arrived there in the afternoon. Distance, eighteen miles.

Wednesday, 29th June, Chambers Creek. Resting the horses and preparing for a trip down on the west side of Mount North-west, to see if I can find a road and water that way.

Friday, 1st July, Chambers Creek. Started at 8 a.m. on a bearing of 120 degrees. At twenty-four miles camped on a water hole in Gregory Creek, where it comes out of the hills. There are three remarkable peaks north of the water, one in particular having a white face to the east, with a course of black stones on the summit, distant about one mile. The first five miles was over a well-grassed country, with stones on the surface, slightly undulating, with a number of good valleys, very broad, emptying themselves into Gregory Creek. At twenty-two miles crossed the main channel of the creek. It is divided into a number of courses, with some very deep holes in them. When they are filled, they must retain water for a great length of time. There are a great many native encampments all about the creek. The gums are dwarf.

Saturday, 2nd July, Gregory Creek. Started at 10.8. Course, 120 degrees. At three miles, opposite a long permanent water hole, with rushes growing round it. At seven miles, crossed the upper part of the Gregory; eight miles and a half, top of dividing range; thirteen miles, crossed a creek with rain water; fourteen miles, crossed another deep channel. Camped at twenty-three miles, within twelve miles of Termination Hill. The country for ten miles before we halted was very good.

Sunday, 3rd July. Rounded Termination Hill, and arrived at Mr. Glen's station.

JOURNAL OF MR. STUART'S THIRD EXPEDITION (IN THE VICINITY OF LAKE TORRENS). NOVEMBER, 1859, TO JANUARY, 1860.

Friday, 4th November, 1859. Started from Chambers Creek for the Emerald Spring. At ten miles crossed nine fresh horse-tracks going eastward; I supposed them to be those of His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief. I have not as yet seen his outward track. Arrived at the spring before sundown.

Saturday, 5th November, Emerald Spring. Started at 7.30 on a course of 340 degrees. At seven miles and a half changed to 38 degrees, for three miles to a high sand hill, from which I could see two salt lagoons, one to the south and the other to the north; examined them, but could find no springs. Next bearing, 18 degrees, to clear the lagoon, two miles and a half sandy, with salt bush and grass. Changed to our first bearing, 340 degrees, for six miles, and then to 350 degrees, for five miles, when we reached the top of a high hill, from which we could see the lake lying to the north of us about three miles distant. Changed to 315 degrees for three miles and a half to get a good view of the lake. This is a large bay; from north-east to north-west there is nothing visible but the dark, deep blue line of the horizon. To the north-north-east there is an island very much resembling Boston Island (Port Lincoln) in shape; to the east of it there is a point of land coming from the mainland. To the north-north-west are, apparently, two small islands. A short distance to the east of the horn of the bay there seems to be much white sand or salt for two or three miles from the beach towards the blue water (on this side of which there is a white line as if it were surf): this again appears at the shores of the island, and also at the horn of the bay. From the south shore to the island the distance is great; I should say about twenty-five miles, but it is very difficult to judge correctly. At three miles and a half camped at sundown, without water.

Sunday, 6th November, Lake Eyre. Got up before daybreak to get the first glimpse of the lake, to see if there is any land on the horizon, and, with a powerful telescope, can see none. It has the same appearance as I described last night. I watched it for some time after sunrise, and it still continued the same. After breakfast went to examine the shore: course north, two miles and a half; found it to be caked with salt, with ironstone and lime gravel. When flooded, at about fifty yards from the hard beach, the water will be about three feet deep. I tried to ride to the water, but found it too soft, so I dismounted and tried it on foot. At about a quarter of a mile I came upon a number of small fish, all dried and caked in salt; they seem to have been left on the receding of the waters, or driven on shore by a heavy storm; they were scattered over a surface of twelve yards in breadth all along the shore; very few, especially of the larger ones, were perfect. I succeeded in obtaining three as nearly perfect as possible; one measured eight inches by three, one six inches by two and a half, and another five inches by two. They resemble the bream. I should think this a sufficient proof of the depth of the water. I then proceeded towards the water, but the ground became soft, and the clay was so very tenacious and my feet so heavy, that it was with difficulty I could move them, and so I was obliged to return. The salt is about three inches thick, and underneath it is clay. I would have tried it in some other places, but as my horses were without water (and as I intend to visit this place again), I think it more prudent to search for water for them, and, if I cannot find any, to return to the camp. Started on a south course to examine the country for springs. At six miles found we were running parallel to sand ridges, and no chance of water. Changed to 160 degrees, crossed a number of sand ridges, but no water, except a little rain water that we found in a hole. Proceeded to the camp, and arrived there about sundown.

Monday, 7th November, Emerald Springs. Finding that the weevil is at work with my dried beef, I must remain to-day and put it to rights. Prepared a package with the fish, etc., to be left for Mr. Barker when he comes here, to be sent to town. There are fish in this spring about three inches long. We have also found a cold-water spring among the warm ones.

Tuesday, 8th November, Emerald Springs. Not being satisfied about one of the lagoons I saw yesterday, I have sent Kekwick and Muller to see if there are any springs, while I and the others proceed to the Beresford Springs; they are to overtake me. Arrived at the springs at 3 p.m. We could find no fresh water on our way, but plenty of salt and brackish in the creek which we first struck at six miles from the Emerald Springs. Sundown: the two men have not come up; they must have found something to detain them; they had only to do about eight miles more than I had. I expect they will arrive during the night.

Wednesday, 9th November, Beresford Springs. No signs of the two men; they must have stopped at some water during the night. It is very tiresome to be delayed in this way: what can they be about? At 12 noon they arrived; they had passed my tracks and gone on to Mount Hugh instead of coming on here. I will give their horses an hour's rest and go on to the Strangway Springs. The Paisley Ponds are dry, but there is salt and brackish water three miles lower down the creek. Started at 2 p.m., and at 5 p.m. arrived at the springs, which are about ten miles from the Beresford. They are upon a high hill about one hundred feet above the level of the plains; there are a great number of them, and abundance of water, but very much impregnated with salt and soda. My eyes are very bad.

Thursday, 10th November, Strangway Springs. Suffering very much from bad eyes and the effects of the water of these springs; cannot help it, but must go and examine the country to north-west and west. Sent Muller to the east in search of springs, with instructions to strike my former tracks and examine all the country between. Started at 7 a.m. with one man, on a course of 315 degrees, and at one mile crossed a salt creek with water; at three miles the sand hills commenced, crossing our course at right angles. At 2 p.m. struck a large lagoon (salt) about two miles broad and five miles long, running north-east and south-west, narrowing at the ends; distance, fourteen miles; tried to cross it but found it too boggy; rounded it on the south-west point, where we discovered a spring; no surface water, but soft, and the same all round for about two acres square, covered with grass reeds of a very dark colour and very thick, showing the presence of water underneath. Proceeded round the lagoon to a high hill, which seemed to have reeds upon the top of it; after a good deal of bogging and crossing the bends of the lagoon, we arrived at the hill, and found it to be very remarkable. Its colour is dark-green from the reeds and rushes and water-grass which cover it. It is upwards of one hundred feet high, the lower part red sand; but a little higher up is a course of limestone. On the top is a black soil, sand and clay, through and over which the water trickles, and then filters through the sand into the lagoon. Where the water is, on the top, it is upwards of one hundred feet long. Immense numbers of tracks of emus and wild dogs, also some native tracks, all fresh. On the north-west side there is one solitary gum-tree, and about half a mile in the same direction is another bed of reeds, and a spring with water in it. All the banks round the lagoon are of a spongy nature. I am very glad I have found this; it will be another day's stage with water nearer to the Spring of Hope. We can now make that in one day, if we can get an early start. By the discovery of springs on this trip, the road can now be travelled to the furthest water that I saw on my last trip from Adelaide, and not be a night without water for the horses. The country to the south and south-east of the last springs (which I have named the William Springs, after the youngest son of John Chambers, Esquire), is sand hills and valleys, rich in grass and other food for cattle. Thence I proceeded to hill bearing 10 degrees south of north, distant three miles, from the top of which I could see no rising ground to the westward, nothing but sand hills. Changed my course to south, to a white place under some stony hills; at ten miles reached it, and found it to be a salt creek, but no springs. The last ten miles were through hills not so high as those I crossed on my way out, but more broken, with plenty of feed. It is my intention to push for the Strangway Springs tonight, so as to get an early start in the morning. Arrived at 10 p.m., found that one of the horses had not been seen all day; something always does go wrong when I am away; I shall have to make a search for him in the morning. My eyes very bad from the effects of the glare of the sun on the sand hills, and the heat reflected from them, and that everlasting torment, the flies.

Friday, 11th November, Strangway Springs. My eyes so bad I cannot see; unable to go myself in search of the missing horse; despatched two of the men at daybreak to circuit the spring, and cut her tracks if she has left them. They have returned, but can see no tracks leaving the spring; she must be concealed among the reeds; sent three men to examine them. They found her at 1 p.m. Started at 2 p.m., and arrived at William Springs at sundown. Distance, fourteen miles. By keeping a little more to the east, the sand hills can nearly be avoided, and a good road over stony country, with good feed, can be had to this spring.

Saturday, 12th November, William Springs. Very unwell, unable to move to-day; I am almost blind and suffering greatly from the effects of the water at Strangway Springs. As I wished to examine round this spring, I remained here to-day; and, as I could not go myself, sent two of the men in different directions. At sundown they returned, and reported that there are no springs for ten miles distant from east-south-east to north. To the east about three miles there is another lagoon resembling this one, but not so large, and no springs; plenty of grass about a mile from the lagoon. Saw two natives at a distance, but could not get near them.

Sunday, 13th November, William Springs. I feel a little better to-day, but suffer very much from the eyes. I hope I shall be able to travel to-morrow, for it is misery to remain in camp in the hot weather. Latitude, 28 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds. Variation, 4 degrees 47 minutes east.

Monday, 14th November, William Springs. Started on a course of 317 degrees for the Hope Springs, and arrived at 5 p.m. I kept to the west in order to see what the country was in that direction, in the hope of finding some more springs. At twenty-one miles crossed the Douglas, coming from north-north-west; the country from it to the north-west and north looked quite white with quartz, and showed signs of being auriferous. From the Douglas to north-west the feed was not quite so plentiful, salt bush with grass, the salt bush predominating; but as we approached the Spring of Hope it improved, and became good as we neared the creek. Distance, thirty miles.

Tuesday, 15th November, Spring of Hope. The spring is still good, yielding a plentiful supply of water. Sent one of the men to the east and south-east to examine some white patches of country that I saw on our journey up here, while I, with one man and two days' provisions, started south-west to a high and prominent hill in the range. At 11 a.m. arrived at the top, from which I had a good view of the country all round. It is a table-topped hill, standing on high table land, which is intersected with numerous small watercourses, flowing towards the Douglas on the south and west sides of the mount, which I have named Mount Anna. It is compound of ironstone, quartz, granite, and a chalky substance, also an immense quantity of conglomerate quartz and ironstone, which has the appearance of having been run together in a smelting works. There are also numerous courses of slate of different descriptions and colours; the quartz, which exists in white patches, predominates, and gives the country the appearance of numerous springs. These patches have deceived me two or three times to-day. At twenty miles the sand hills begin again; the country being rather poor, with a number of isolated hills, and also some white chalky cliffs of twenty feet high and upwards. No water nor appearance of any to the west for a considerable distance. Changed to the north-west to look at some more white country. I am again disappointed; it turns out to be quartz with low chalky cliffs, and a large quantity of igneous stone. Country the same, with salt bush and a little grass in places. I can see no inducement for me to go further, so I shall return to the camp. Arrived after dark. My eyes are still very bad, and I suffer dreadfully from them. To-day has been hot, and the reflection from the white quartz and the heated stones was almost insufferable: what a relief it was when the sun went down! Distance, forty-five miles.

Wednesday, 16th November, Spring of Hope. Still very ill, and unable to go out myself. Sent Muller to examine the creek nearer Mount Margaret for water; if he finds any near the mount, I shall move there, as it will be nearer, for building the cone of stones on the top of the mount, than Hawker Springs. Shod our horses, and built a small cone of stones on a reef of rocks that runs along the top of a hill about half a mile west-north-west from the spring, to which it will act as a land mark. Muller has returned, and reports having found water in the other creek, about five miles north-north-west from this; the water is in the centre of the creek, in three or four holes, some of which are brackish, but one of them is very good. A number of natives were camped about it, but took to flight the moment they saw him; he tried to induce them to come near him, but they would not; they appeared to be very much frightened, and climbed up the cliffs to get out of his way. Plenty of feed between the two waters; through the hills there is an abundance. I find the water discovered to-day (which I have named The George Creek, after G. Davenport, Esquire), will be of no advantage to me when building the cone of stones; I shall therefore move to the Hawker Springs to-morrow.

Thursday, 17th November, Spring of Hope. Arrived at the Hawker Springs at noon, and commenced the survey. Springs still good; some of them at this point will require to be opened. We have opened one, and the water is beautiful. Immense quantities of reeds and rushes. Built a cone of stones on the hill at the westernmost spring.

Friday, 18th November, Hawker Springs. Building a cone of stones on the top of Mount Margaret, and making other preparations for the survey. To-day very hot, wind south-east; a great deal of lightning to the south. Obtained bearings of the following points from the hill at Hawker Springs--namely, Mount Margaret, Mount Younghusband, hill at Parry Springs, Mount Charles, and Mount Stevenson.

Saturday, 19th November, Hawker Springs. Sent the party on to Fanny Springs, where I intend to lay down my base-line. Went with Kekwick to the top of Mount Margaret. This hill is composed of grey and red granite, quartz, and ironstone; on the lower hill is a blue and brown stratum. I then proceeded to examine the creeks running to the east; in following one of them down we came upon another spring of water, running and very good. The creek is bounded on both sides for about a mile by nearly perpendicular cliffs, which appeared to get much lower and broken to the west. It is situated about one mile north of Mount Margaret, and runs into the Hawker Springs valley. Could see no more higher up. Followed the creek down to the opening. Proceeded about half a mile, entered another gorge, and rode up it about three-quarters of a mile; came upon another spring, running also, water excellent. Numerous native camps in the creek. Country the same as in the other creek; cliffs slate and not so high, but more broken, with watercourses between them, through which cattle could find their way to the tops of the hills, where there appears to be plenty of grass; there is also an abundance at the mouth of the gorge and on the plains. This creek also runs into the valley of the Hawker Springs. Distance from Mount Margaret, two miles and a half, 8 degrees east of north. As it was getting towards sunset I found I must make for the camp, which was about twelve miles off. Arrived after dark. Springs still as good as when I first saw them. Very tired, having had a very long day of it.

Sunday, 20th November, Fanny Springs. Got up at daybreak, and went to the top of Mount Charles, on which I had ordered the men to build a cone of stones after their arrival here yesterday. On my return to the camp the men informed me that Smith had absconded during the night. He generally made a practice of sleeping some little distance from the others, when I did not see him lie down; I had checked him for it several times. It did not appear that he had gone to sleep, but waited an opportunity to steal away, taking with him the mare which he used to ride, and harness, etc., also some provisions. As I had started very early to walk to Mount Charles, his absence was not observed until some time after I had left, and being detained some hours on the top of the hill, in consequence of the atmosphere being so thick that I could not obtain my observations, it was 7 a.m. before I heard of his departure. That moment I sent Kekwick for my own horse (he being the swiftest), and ordered him to saddle, mount, pursue, overtake, and bring Smith back; but during the time he was preparing, I had time to think the matter over, and decided upon not following him, as it would only knock up my horse and detain me three or four days. Smith must have started about midnight, for I was up taking observations from 12.30 a.m. until daybreak, and neither saw nor heard any one during that time. I could ill afford to lose the time in pursuing him, situated as I was in the midst of my survey, and he being a lazy, insolent, good-for-nothing man, and, worse than all, an incorrigible liar, I could place no dependence upon him. We are better without him; he has been a very great annoyance and trouble to me from the beginning throughout the journey. What could have caused him to take such a step I am at a loss to imagine; he has had no cause to complain of bad treatment or anything of that sort; he never mentioned such a thing to the other men, nor was he heard to complain of anything. Such conduct on an expedition like ours deserves the severest punishment: there is no knowing what fatal consequences may follow such a cowardly action. Had he not stolen the mare, I should have cared little about his running away, but I am short of riding horses and have a great deal for them to do during the time I am surveying and examining the country. The vagabond went off just as the heavy work was beginning, and it was principally for that work that I engaged him. He put on a pair of new boots, leaving those he had been wearing, evidently intending to push the mare as far as she would go, expecting he would be pursued, and then leave her and walk the rest. I expect, when he reaches the settled districts, he will tell some abominable lie about the matter. If such conduct is not severely dealt with, no confidence can be placed in any man engaged in future expeditions.

Monday, 21st November, Fanny Springs. Kekwick and I commenced chaining the base-line from the top of Mount Charles, bearing 131 degrees. Distance chained, four miles thirty chains. I ordered H. Strong to come to me with two horses, which he did about 1.30 p.m.; we had finished the line, and were waiting for him. I had seen some country that looked very much like springs, to the north-east, a mile or so from the line; went to examine it, and found some splendid springs--one in particular is a very large fountain, about twenty yards in diameter, quite circular and apparently very deep, from which there is running a large stream of water of the very finest description; it is one of the largest reservoirs I have yet seen, three times the size of the one at the Hamilton Springs, with abundance of water for any amount of cattle; the water is running a mile below it.

Tuesday, 22nd November, Fanny Springs. Engaged chaining the base-line to north-west. Saw some more springs a mile or two to the east; too tired to examine them to-day. It is dreadfully hot. Returned to the camp at sundown.

Wednesday, 23rd November, Fanny Springs. Finished the remaining part of base-line. The line is ten miles and forty chains long, crossing the top of Mount Charles.

Thursday, 24th November, Fanny Springs. Fixing the angles of runs. Found another batch of springs close to north-west boundary of large run, covering four or five acres of ground, with an immense quantity of reeds; they are not so active as the others. The ground round about is very soft, and the water is most excellent. After fixing the north-east corner, I proceeded to examine the country beyond the boundaries of the runs in search of springs. Having gone several miles north, I saw the appearance of a lagoon north-east, for which I started, but on my arrival found no springs round it. Still continued on the same course for a considerable distance further to a high sand hill, from which we could see the Neale winding through a broad valley. One part of the creek being much greener than the other, I went to examine it, and found the green appearance to be caused by fresh gum-trees, young saplings, rushes, and other fresh-water plants and bushes. The creek spreads over the plain in numerous channels, four miles wide, but the main channel has only gum-trees, with a chain of water holes, some salt, some brackish. By scratching on the bank where the rushes were growing we got some beautiful water in the gravel, a few inches below the surface. There was plenty of feed, and the wild currant, or rather grape, grew in great abundance, and was very superior to any I had tasted before. There were two kinds; one grew upon a dark-green bush, and had a tart and saltish taste, the other grew upon a bush of a much lighter colour, the fruit round and plump and much superior to the former; in taste it very much resembled some species of dark grape, only a little more acid. From this I went in a north-east direction to a mound I had seen on my former journey, and found it to be hot springs with a large stream of warm water flowing from them nearly as large as the Emerald Springs, and, as it seemed to me, warmer. It was a very hot day, and I had been riding fast. It was as much as I could bear to keep my hand in the spring for a few minutes, six inches below the surface. I put in a staff about four feet long, but could find no bottom--nothing but very soft mud; the staff came up quite hot. It is a very remarkable hill. From the west side it would be taken for a very high sand hill with scrub growing on it--in fact it is so. The springs are not seen until the top is reached. From them all the east side is covered with green reeds to the base of the hill. The hot springs are near the top, and cold ones on one side to the south; some at the bottom and some half-way up. There is a large lagoon to the east, which I will examine when I move the party up to this, for I have no time to-day. Returned towards the camp and fixed the north-west corner of the second run; I am obliged to drive pickets into the ground to show them. I would have built cones of stones, but could get none large enough to do it with. Arrived at the camp very late; fourteen hours on horseback.

Friday, 25th November, Fanny Springs. Started shortly after sunrise to mark the other two corners of the two runs. On approaching the south-west angle of the second run (Parry Spring run), I discovered three other springs close to the boundary of the first run. Two of them are outside, and one inside, or rather on the boundary. The latter is a large spring, having seven streams of water coming from it, one large, the others smaller. The other two have abundance of water, covered with reeds. Proceeded and marked the other corners, but, having no stones, was obliged to put down pickets. Returned to camp, keeping outside the south boundary in search of springs, but found none. Crossed over table land, salt bush and grass, with stones on the surface. Arrived at the camp a little before sundown.

Saturday, 26th November, Fanny Springs. Started for Parry Springs. In the evening commenced putting up a cone of stones on the northernmost hill. The day was excessively hot. One great thing here is that the nights are very cool, so that we are obliged to have a good fire on all night. We have had one or two warm nights since I have been out this time. I suppose the reason must be that a large body of water exists in the lake not far distant from us, the wind coming from north-east. From north-west to south-south-east the winds are generally cool. It is so cold in the morning that the men are wearing their top-coats; the day does not get hot until the sun is a considerable height.

Sunday, 27th November, Parry Springs. Cold wind this morning from the east. In the afternoon the sky became overcast, the clouds coming from the south-east.

Monday, 28th November, Parry Springs. Building a cone of stones on the northernmost of the hills, fixing the south-east corner of run Number 2, and moving to the hot springs. Arrived at sundown. Saw a number of holes where the natives had been digging for water. Cleaned out one, and found water at two feet from the surface, above the water in the creek. It is very good. On examining this spring, I find there is a great deal more water coming from it than from the Emerald Springs. The hot springs are on the top of the sand hill, and the cold ones at the foot. There are large quantities of the wild grape growing here, both red and white. They are very good indeed, and, if cultivated, would, I think, become a very nice fruit.

Tuesday, 29th November, Primrose springs. Surveying run. Sent Muller to the north to a distant range, and Strong to the north-east to look for springs. Towards evening both returned without being successful. They passed over plenty of good feeding country, but the range is high and stony, with very little grass, only salt bush. It is a continuation of Hanson range, all table land.

Wednesday, 30th November, Primrose springs. Surveying, etc. North-east corner of run Number 2 is about two miles west of the Neale. I scratched a few inches deep from the surface in the gravel, and found very good water. The wild grape is in abundance here, and grows as large as the cultivated one. I have obtained some choice seeds.