Farm Mechanics: Machinery and Its Use to Save Hand Labor on the Farm.

Chapter VIII: Miscellaneous Farm Conveniences

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FARM OFFICE

Business farming requires an office. Business callers feel sensitive about talking farm or live-stock affairs before several members of the family. But they are quite at ease when alone with the farmer in his office. A farm office may be small but it should contain a desk or table, two or three chairs, book shelves for books, drawers for government bulletins and a cabinet to hold glassware and chemicals for making soil tests and a good magnifying glass for examining seeds before planting. A good glass is also valuable in tracing the destructive work of many kinds of insect pests.

The office is the proper place for making germination tests of various farm seeds. Seventy degrees of heat is necessary for the best results in seed testing. For this reason, as well as for comfort while working, the heating problem should receive its share of attention. Many times it so happens that a farmer has a few minutes just before mealtime that he could devote to office work if the room be warm enough.

Neatly printed letter-heads and envelopes are important. The sheets of paper should be eight and a half by eleven inches in size, pure white and of good quality. The printing should be plain black and of round medium-sized letters that may be easily read. Fancy lettering and flourishes are out of place on business stationery.

Halftone illustration of farm animals or buildings are better used on separate advertising sheets that may be folded in with the letters when wanted.

Typewriters are so common that a hand-written letter is seldom seen among business correspondence. A busy farmer is not likely to acquire much speed with a typewriter, but his son or daughter may. One great advantage is the making of carbon copies. Every letter received is then filed in a letter case in alphabetical order and a carbon copy of each answer is pinned to it for future reference.

The cost of furnishing a farm office will depend upon the inclinations of the man. A cheap kitchen table may be used instead of an expensive mahogany desk. A new typewriter costs from fifty to ninety dollars, but a rebuilt machine that will do good work may be obtained for twenty.

A useful magnifying glass with legs may be bought for a dollar or two. Or considerable money may be invested in a high-powered microscope.

SPEED INDICATOR

The speed requirements of machines are given by the manufacturers. It is up to the farmer to determine the size of pulleys and the speed of intermediate shafts between his engine and the machine to be driven. A speed indicator is held against the end of a shaft at the center. The indicator pin then revolves with the shaft and the number of revolutions per minute are counted by timing the pointer on the dial with the second hand of a watch.

SOIL TOOLS

Soil moisture often is the limiting factor in crop raising. Soil moisture may be measured by analysis. The first step is to obtain samples at different depths. This is done accurately and quickly with a good soil auger. Other paraphernalia is required to make a careful analysis of the sample, but a farmer of experience will make a mud ball and form a very good estimate of the amount of water in it.

FENCE-MAKING TOOLS

_Sliding Field Gate._--Each farm field should have a gate, not necessarily expensive, but it should be reasonably convenient. Farm field gates should be made sixteen feet long, which will allow for a clear opening about fourteen feet wide. The cheapest way to make a good farm gate is to use a 10-inch board for the bottom, 8-inch for the board next to the bottom and three 6-inch boards above that. The space between the bottom board and next board is two inches. This narrow space prevents hogs from lifting the gate with their noses. The spaces widen toward the top, so that the gate when finished is five feet high. If colts run the fields then a bar is needed along the top of the gate. Six cross pieces 1 inch by 6 inches are used to hold the gate together. These cross pieces are bolted through at each intersection. Also a slanting brace is used on the front half of the gate to keep it from racking and this brace is put on with bolts. Two posts are set at each end of the gate. The front posts hold the front end of the gate between them, and the rear posts the same. There is a cross piece which reaches from one of the rear posts to the other to slide the gate and hold it off the ground. A similar cross piece holds the front end of the gate up from the ground. Sometimes a swivel roller is attached to the rear cross piece to roll the gate if it is to be used a good deal. A plain, simple sliding gate is all that is necessary for fields some distance from the barn.

CORN SHOCK HORSE

A convenient corn shocking horse is made with a pole cut from a straight tree. The pole is about six inches through at the butt and tapers to a small end. About twenty feet is a good length. There are two legs which hold the large end of the pole up about 40" from the ground. These legs are well spread apart at the bottom. Two feet back from the legs is a horizontal hole about one and one-quarter inches in diameter to hold the crossbar. This crossbar may be an old broom handle. The pole and the crossbar mark the four divisions of a corn shock. Corn is cut and stood up in each corner, usually nine hills in a corner, giving thirty-six hills to a shock. Corn planted in rows is counted up to make about the same amount of corn to the shock. Of course a heavy or light crop must determine the number of rows or hills. When enough corn is cut for a shock it is tied with two bands, the crossbar is pulled out and the corn horse is dragged along to the next stand.

HUSKING-PIN

Hand huskers for dividing the cornhusks at the tips of the ears are made of wood, bone or steel. Wooden husking-pins are made of ironwood, eucalyptus, second growth hickory, or some other tough hardwood. The pin is about four inches long, five-eighths of an inch thick and it is shaped like a lead-pencil with a rather long point. A recessed girdle is cut around the barrel of the pin and a leather finger ring fits into and around this girdle. Generally the leather ring fits the larger finger to hold the pin in the right position while permitting it to turn to wear the point all around alike. Bone husking-pins are generally flat with a hole through the center to hold the leather finger ring. Steel husking-pins are shaped differently and have teeth to catch and tear the husks apart.

PAINT BRUSHES

Paint brushes may be left in the paint for a year without apparent injury. The paint should be deep enough to nearly bury the bristles. Pour a little boiled linseed oil over the top to form a skin to keep the air out. It is cheaper to buy a new brush than to clean the paint out of one that has been used.

FRUIT PICKING

Apples are handled as carefully as eggs by men who understand the business of getting high prices. Picking boxes for apples have bothered orchard men more than any other part of the business. It is so difficult to get help to handle apples without bruising that many inventions have been tried to lessen the damage. In western New York a tray with vertical ends and slanting sides has been adopted by grape growers as the most convenient tray for grapes. Apple growers are adopting the same tray. It is made of three-eighths-inch lumber cut 30 inches long for the sides, using two strips for each side. The bottom is 30 inches long and three-eighths of an inch thick, made in one piece. The ends are seven-eighths of an inch thick cut to a bevel so the top edge of the end piece is fourteen inches long and the bottom edge is ten inches long. The depth of the end piece is eight inches. Hand cleats are nailed on the outsides of the end pieces so as to project one-half inch above the top. These cleats not only serve to lift and carry the trays, but when they are loaded on a wagon the bottoms fit in between the cleats to hold them from slipping endways. In piling these picking boxes empty, one end is slipped outward over the cleat until the other end drops down. This permits half nesting when the boxes are piled up for storage or when loaded on wagons to move to the orchard.

Apples are picked into the trays from the trees. The trays are loaded on to wagons or stone-boats and hauled to the packing shed, where the apples are rolled out gently over the sloping sides of the crates on to the cushioned bottom of the sorting table. Orchard men should have crates enough to keep the pickers busy without emptying until they are hauled to the packing shed. The use of such trays or crates save handling the apples over several times. The less apples are handled the fewer bruises are made.

In California similar trays are used, but they have straight sides and are called lug boxes. Eastern fruit men prefer the sloping sides because they may be emptied easily, quickly and gently.

FRUIT PICKING LADDERS

Commercial orchards are pruned to keep the bearing fruit spurs as near the ground as possible, so that ladders used at picking time are not so long as they used to be.

The illustration shows one of the most convenient picking ladders. It is a double ladder with shelves to hold picking trays supported by two wheels and two legs. The wheels which are used to support one side of the frame are usually old buggy wheels. A hind axle together with the wheels works about right. The ladder frame is about eight feet high with ladder steps going up from each side. These steps also form the support for the shelves. Picking trays or boxes are placed on the shelves, so the latter will hold eight or ten bushels of apples, and may be wheeled directly to the packing shed if the distance is not too great.

Step-ladders from six to ten feet long are more convenient to get up into the middle of the tree than almost any other kind of ladder. Commercial apple trees have open tops to admit sunshine. For this reason, straight ladders are not much used. It is necessary to have ladders built so they will support themselves. Sometimes only one leg is used in front of a step-ladder and sometimes ladders are wide at the bottom and taper to a point at the top. The kind of ladder to use depends upon the size of the trees and the manner in which they have been pruned. Usually it is better to have several kinds of ladders of different sizes and lengths. Pickers then have no occasion to wait for each other.

FEEDING RACKS

Special racks for the feeding of alfalfa hay to hogs are built with slatted sides hinged at the top so they will swing in when the hogs crowd their noses through to get the hay. This movement drops the hay down within reach. Alfalfa hay is especially valuable as a winter feed for breeding stock. Sows may be wintered on alfalfa with one ear of corn a day and come out in the spring in fit condition to suckle a fine litter of pigs. Alfalfa is a strong protein feed. It furnishes the muscle-forming substances necessary for the young litter by causing a copious flow of milk. One ear of corn a day is sufficient to keep the sow in good condition without laying on too much fat. When shoats are fed in the winter for fattening, alfalfa hay helps them to grow. In connection with grain it increases the weight rapidly without adding a great deal of expense to the ration. Alfalfa in every instance is intended as a roughage, as an appetizer and as a protein feed. Fat must be added by the use of corn, kaffir corn, Canada peas, barley or other grains. Alfalfa hay is intended to take the place of summer pasture in winter more than as a fattening ration.

SPLIT-LOG ROAD DRAG

The only low cost road grader of value is the split-log road drag. It should be exactly what the name implies. It should be made from a light log about eight inches in diameter split through the middle with a saw. Plenty of road drags are made of timbers instead of split logs, but the real principle is lost because such drags are too heavy and clumsy. They cannot be quickly adjusted to the varying road conditions met with while in use.

The illustration shows the right way of making a road drag, and the manner in which it is drawn along at an angle to the roadway so as to move the earth from the sides towards the center, but illustrations are useless for showing how to operate them to do good work. The eccentricities of a split-log road drag may be learned in one lesson by riding it over a mile or two of country road shortly after the frost has left the ground in the spring of the year. It will be noticed that the front half of the road drag presents the flat side of the split log to the work of shaving off the lumps while the other half log levels and smooths and puddles the loosened moist earth by means of the rounded side. Puddling makes earth waterproof. The front, or cutting edge, is faced with steel. The ridges and humps are cut and shoved straight ahead or to one side to fill holes and ruts. This is done by the driver, who shifts his weight from one end to the other, and from front to back of his standing platform to distribute the earth to the best advantage. The rounded side of the rear half log presses the soft earth into place and leaves the surface smooth.

Unfortunately, the habit of using narrow tired wagons on country roads has become almost universal in the United States. To add to their destructive propensities, all wagons in some parts of the country have the same width of tread so that each wheel follows in paths made by other wheels, until they cut ruts of considerable depth. These little narrow ditches hold water so that it cannot run off into the drains at the sides of the roadway. When a rut gets started, each passing wheel squeezes out the muddy water, or if the wheel be revolving at a speed faster than a walk it throws the water, and the water carries part of the roadway with it so that small ruts are made large and deep ruts are made deeper. In some limited sections road rules demand that wagons shall have wide tires and have shorter front axles, so that with the wide tires and the uneven treads the wheels act as rollers instead of rut makers. It is difficult to introduce such requirements into every farm section. In the meantime the evils of narrow tires may be overcome to a certain extent by the persistent and proper use of the split-log road drag. These drags are most effectual in the springtime when the frost is coming out of the ground. During the muddy season the roads get worked up into ruts and mire holes, which, if taken in time, may be filled by running lengthwise of the road with the drag when the earth is still soft. When the ground shows dry on top and is still soft and wet underneath is the time the drags do the best work by scraping the drier hummocks into the low places where the earth settles hard as it dries.

A well rounded, smooth road does not get muddy in the summer time. Summer rains usually come with a dash. Considerable water falls in a short time, and the very act of falling with force first lays the dust, then packs the surface. The smooth packed surface acts like a roof, and almost before the rain stops falling all surface water is drained off to the sides so that an inch down under the surface the roadbed is as hard as it was before the rain. That is the reason why split log road drags used persistently in the spring and occasionally later in the season will preserve good roads all summer. It is very much better to follow each summer rain with the road drag, but it is not so necessary as immediate attention at the proper time in spring. Besides, farmers are so busy during the summer months that they find it difficult to spend the time. In some sections of the middle West one man is hired to do the dragging at so much per trip over the road. He makes his calculations accordingly and is prepared to do the dragging at all seasons when needed. This plan usually works out the best because one man then makes it his business and he gets paid for the amount of work performed. This man should live at the far end of the road division so that he can smooth his own pathway leading to town.

STEEL ROAD DRAG

Manufacturers are making road drags of steel with tempered blades adjustable to any angle by simply moving the lever until the dog engages in the proper notch. Some of these machines are made with blades reversible, so that the other side can be used for cutting when the first edge is worn. For summer use the steel drag works very well, but it lacks the smoothing action of a well balanced log drag.

SEED HOUSE AND BARN TRUCKS

Bag trucks for handling bags of grain and seeds should be heavy. Bag truck wheels should be eight inches in diameter with a three-inch face. The steel bar or shoe that lifts and carries the bag should be twenty-two inches in length. That means that the bottom of the truck in front is twenty-two inches wide. The wheels run behind this bar so the hubs do not project to catch against standing bags or door frames. The length of truck handles from the steel lift bar to the top end of the hand crook is four feet, six inches. In buying bag trucks it is better to get the heavy solid kind that will not upset. The light ones are a great nuisance when running them over uneven floors. The wheels are too narrow and too close together and the trucks tip over under slight provocation. Platform trucks for use in moving boxes of apples or crates of potatoes or bags of seed in the seed house or warehouse also should be heavy. The most approved platform truck, the kind that market men use, is made with a frame four feet in length by two feet in width. The frame is made of good solid hardwood put together with mortise and tenon. The cross pieces or stiles are three-quarters of an inch lower than the side pieces or rails, which space is filled with hardwood flooring boards firmly bolted to the cross pieces so they come up flush with the side timbers. The top of the platform should be sixteen inches up from the floor. There are two standards in front which carry a wooden crossbar over the front end of the truck. This crossbar is used for a handle to push or pull the truck. The height of the handle-bar from the floor is three feet. Rear wheels are five inches in diameter and work on a swivel so they turn in any direction like a castor. The two front wheels carry the main weight. They are twelve inches in diameter with a three-inch face. The wheels are bored to fit a one-inch steel axle and have wide boxings bolted to the main timbers of the truck frame. Like the two-wheel bag truck, the wheels of the platform truck are under the frame so they do not project out in the way, which is a great advantage when the truck is being used in a crowded place.

HOME CANNING OUTFIT

There are small canning outfits manufactured and sold for farm use that work on the factory principle. For canning vegetables, the heating is done under pressure because a great deal of heat is necessary to destroy the bacteria that spoil vegetables in the cans. Steam under pressure is a good deal hotter than boiling water. There is considerable work in using a canning outfit, but it gets the canning out of the way quickly. Extra help may be employed for a few days to do the canning on the same principle that farmers employ extra help at threshing time and do it all up at once. Of course, fruits and vegetables keep coming along at different times in the summer, but the fall fruit canning may be done at two or three sittings arranged a week or two apart and enough fruit packed away in the cellar to last a big family a whole year. Canning machinery is simple and inexpensive. These outfits may be bought from $10 up. Probably a $20 or $25 canner would be large enough for a large family, or a dozen different families if it could be run on a co-operative plan.

ELECTRIC TOWEL

The "air towel" is sanitary, as well as an economical method of drying the hands. A foot pedal closes a quick-acting switch, thereby putting into operation a blower that forces air through an electric heating device so arranged as to distribute the warmed air to all parts of the hands at the same time. The supply of hot air continues as long as the foot pedal is depressed. The hands are thoroughly dried in thirty seconds.

STALLS FOR MILCH GOATS

Milch goats are not fastened with stanchions like cows. The front of the manger is boarded tight with the exception of a round hole about two feet high and a slit in the boards reaching from the round opening to within a few inches of the floor. The round hole is made large enough so that the goat puts her head through to reach the feed, and the slit is narrow enough so she cannot back up to pull the feed out into the stall. This is a device to save fodder.

STABLE HELPS

Overhead tracks have made feed carriers possible. Litter or feed carriers and manure carriers run on the same kind of a track, the only difference is in size and shape of the car and the manner in which the contents are unloaded. Manure carriers and litter carriers have a continuous track that runs along over the manure gutters and overhead lengthwise of the feed alleys. There are a number of different kinds of carriers manufactured, all of which seem to do good service. The object is to save labor in doing the necessary work about dairy stables. To get the greatest possible profit from cows, it is absolutely necessary that the stable should be kept clean and sanitary, also that the cows shall be properly fed several times a day. Different kinds of feed are given at the different feeding periods. It is impossible to have all the different kinds of food stored in sufficient quantities within easy reach of the cows. Hence, the necessity of installing some mechanical arrangement to fetch and carry. The only floor carrier in use in dairy stables is a truck for silage. Not in every stable is this the case. Sometimes a feed carrier is run directly to the silo. It depends a good deal on the floor what kind of a carrier is best for silage. The advantage of an overhead track is, that it is always free from litter. Where floor trucks are used, it is necessary to keep the floor bare of obstruction. This is not considered a disadvantage because the floor should be kept clean anyway.

HOUSE PLUMBING

When water is pumped by an engine and stored for use in a tank to be delivered under pressure in the house, then the additional cost of hot and cold water and the necessary sink and bath room fixtures is comparatively small. Modern plumbing fixtures fit so perfectly and go together so easily that the cost of installing house plumbing in the country has been materially reduced, while the dangers from noxious gases have been entirely eliminated. Open ventilator pipes carry the poisonous gases up through the roof of the house to float harmlessly away in the atmosphere. Septic tanks take care of the sewerage better than the sewer systems in some towns. Plumbing fixtures may be cheap or expensive, according to the wishes and pocketbook of the owner. The cheaper grades are just as useful, but there are expensive outfits that are very much more ornamental.

FARM SEPTIC TANK

Supplying water under pressure in the farmhouse demands a septic tank to get rid of the waste. A septic tank is a scientific receptacle to take the poison out of sewerage. It is a simple affair consisting of two underground compartments, made water-tight, with a sewer pipe to lead the waste water from the house into the first compartment and a drain to carry the denatured sewerage away from the second compartment. The first compartment is open to the atmosphere, through a ventilator, but the second compartment is made as nearly air-tight as possible. The scientific working of a septic tank depends upon the destructive work of two kinds of microscopic life known as aerobic and anaerobic forms of bacteria. Sewerage in the first tank is worked over by aerobic bacteria, the kind that require a small amount of oxygen in order to live and carry on their work. The second compartment is inhabited by anaerobic bacteria, or forms of microscopic life that work practically without air. The principles of construction require that a septic tank shall be large enough to contain two days' supply of sewerage in each compartment; thus, requiring four days for the sewerage to enter and leave the tank.

Estimating 75 gallons daily of sewerage for each inhabitant of the house and four persons to a family, the septic tank should be large enough to hold 600 gallons, three hundred gallons in each compartment, which would require a tank about four feet in width and six feet in length and four feet in depth. These figures embrace more cubic feet of tank than necessary to meet the foregoing requirements. It is a good plan to leave a margin of safety.

It is usual to lay a vitrified sewer, four inches in diameter, from below the bottom of the cellar to the septic tank, giving it a fall of one-eighth inch in ten feet. The sewer enters the tank at the top of the standing liquid and delivers the fresh sewerage from the house through an elbow and a leg of pipe that reaches to within about six inches of the bottom of the tank. The reason for this is to admit fresh sewerage without disturbing the scum on the surface of the liquid in the tank. The scum is a protection for the bacteria. It helps them to carry on their work of destruction. The same principle applies to the second compartment. The liquid from the first compartment is carried over into the second compartment by means of a bent pipe in the form of a siphon which fills up gradually and empties automatically when the liquid in the first compartment rises to a certain level. The discharging siphon leg should be the shortest. The liquid from the second compartment is discharged into the drain in the same manner. There are special valves made for the final discharge, but they are not necessary. The bottom of the tank is dug deep enough to hold sewerage from two to four feet in depth. The top surface of the liquid in the tank is held down to a level of at least six inches below the bottom of the cellar. So there is no possible chance of the house sewer filling and backing up towards the house. Usually the vitrified sewer pipe is four inches in diameter, the septic tank siphons for a small tank are three inches in diameter and the final discharge pipe is three inches in diameter, with a rapid fall for the first ten feet after leaving the tank.

Septic tanks should be made of concrete, waterproofed on the inside to prevent the possibility of seepage. Septic tank tops are made of reinforced concrete with manhole openings. Also the manhole covers are made of reinforced concrete, either beveled to fit the openings or made considerably larger than the opening, so that they sit down flat on the top surface of the tank. These covers are always deep enough down in the ground so that when covered over the earth holds them in place.

In laying vitrified sewer it is absolutely necessary to calk each joint with okum or lead, or okum reinforced with cement. It is almost impossible to make a joint tight with cement alone, although it can be done by an expert. Each length of the sewer-pipe should be given a uniform grade. The vitrified sewer is trapped outside of the building with an ordinary S-trap ventilated, which leaves the sewer open to the atmosphere and prevents the possibility of back-pressure that might drive the poisonous gases from the decomposing sewerage through the sewer back into the house. In this way, the septic tank is made entirely separate from the house plumbing, except that the two systems are connected at this outside trap.

It is sometimes recommended that the waste water from the second compartment shall be distributed through a series of drains made with three-inch or four-inch drain tile and that the outlet of this set of drains shall empty into or connect with a regularly organized field drainage system. Generally speaking, the final discharge of liquid from a septic tank that is properly constructed is inoffensive and harmless. However, it is better to use every possible precaution to preserve the health of the family, and it is better to dispose of the final waste in such a way as to prevent any farm animal from drinking it.

While manholes are built into septic tanks for the purpose of examination, in practice they are seldom required. If the tanks are properly built and rightly proportioned to the sewerage requirements they will take care of the waste water from the house year after year without attention. Should any accidents occur, they are more likely to be caused by a leakage in the vitrified sewer than from any other cause. Manufacturers of plumbing supplies furnish the siphons together with instructions for placing them properly in the concrete walls. Some firms supply advertising matter from which to work out the actual size and proportions of the different compartments and all connections. The making of a septic tank is simple when the principle is once understood.

INDEX

PAGE

Acetylene gas 129
Air pressure pump 107
Anvil 33
Apple-picking bag 216
ladder 215
Asparagus knife 205
Auger, ship 26
Auger-bit 24, 25
Automatic hog feeder 219
Axles, wagon 52
Babbitting boxings 73
Barn trucks 226
Belt punch 211
work 146
Bench and vise 34
Bench for iron work 35
for woodworking 16
Bipod 206
Bits, extension boring 26
Bit, twist-drill, for wood-boring 25
Blacksmith hammers 61
shop 31
Block and tackle 77
Bobsleighs 188
Boiler, steam 90
Bolster spring 186
stake 187
Bolt cutter 45
Bolts, carriage and machine 56
emergency 53
home-made 52
plow and sickle bar 56
Boxings, babbitting 73
Brace, wagon-box 58
Bramble hook 20
Brass valves 236
Breeding crate for hogs 203
Brick trowel 209
Bridge auger 26
Bucket yoke 75
Buck rake 165
Building bracket 202
Bull nose-chain 233
treadmill 81
Cable hay stacker 176
California hay ricker 176
Calipers 43
Caliper rule 14
Canning outfit 229
Carpenter's bench 17
trestle 17
Cart, two-wheel 191
Centrifugal pumps 105
Chain, logging 50
Chisels and gouges 28
Circular saw, filing 69
jointing 68
setting 68
Clearing land by tractor 146
Clevises, plow 58
Clod crusher 155
Clothes line reel box, concrete 228
Clothes line tightener 230
Cold-chisel 37
Colt-breaking sulkey 192
Compasses 18
Concrete center alley for hog house 209
farm scale base and pit 196
hog wallow 209
wall mold 210
Conveniences, miscellaneous farm 194
Conveyances, farm 179
Corn crib, double 201
two-story 194
Corn cultivator 142
planter 158
shock horse 208
Cotter pin tool 44
Coulter clamp 54
Countersink 41
Cow stanchion 234
Crop machinery, special 161
Crops, kind of, to irrigate 118
Crowbars 46
Cultivator, combination 143
corn 142
Cutting nippers 46
Derrick fork 168
Dies and taps 55
Diggers, potato 205
Disk harrow 152
plow 137
Dog churn 79
power 80
Draw-filing 62
Drawing-knife 22
Drill, grain 160
power post 38
Drill-press 39
electric 40
Driven machines 100
Dumbwaiter 229
Economy of plowing by tractor 146
Electricity on the farm 121, 127
Electric lighting 123
Electric power plant 122
towel 231
Elevating machinery 133
Elevator, grain 134
Emery grinders 31
Engine and truck, portable 94
Engine, gasoline 91
kerosene 92
steam 90
Eveners for three- and four-horse teams 139
Extension boring bits 26
Farm conveniences 194
conveyances 179
office 194
shop and implement house 9
shop work 50
tractor 97
waterworks 89, 100
Feed crusher 131
Feeding racks 217
Fence-making tools 205, 206
Fence pliers 207
File handle 36
Files and rasps 36
Filing hand saw 56
roll 63
Flail 75
Fore-plane 27
Forge 32
Forges, portable 32
Forging iron and steel 59
Fruit picking 212
ladders 215
tray 213
Fruit-thinning nippers 214
Gambrel whiffletree 173
Garage 10
Garden weeder 54
Gas, acetylene 129
Gasoline engine 91
house lightning 128
Gate, sliding field 205
Gatepost with copper mailbox 227
Gauge, double-marking 22
Generating mechanical power 74
Goat stall 230
Grain drill 160
elevator 134
elevator, portable 135
Grass hook 163
Grindstone 28
Hacksaw 45
Hammers, blacksmith 61
machinist's 42
Hand axe 23
Hand saw 19, 65
filing 66
jointing 65
setting 65
using 67
Handspike 24
Hardy 43
Harness punch 211
Harrow cart 154
disk 152
sled 141
spike-tooth 141
Harvesting by tractor 146
Hay carrier carriage 172
Hay crop, handling 163
Hay derricks, Idaho 171
Western 169
Hayford, double harpoon 169
grapple 170
hitch 173
hood 197
Hayrake, revolving 163
Hay ricker, California 176
Hay rope pulleys 174
Hay skids 167
Hay sling 167
Hay stacker, cable 176
Haystack knife 168
Hay-tedder 165
Hay-track roof extension 197
Hoe, how to sharpen 70
wheel 162
Hoes and weeders 204
Hog catching hook 232
Hog feeder, automatic 219
trough 221
trough, reinforced 222
wallow, concrete 209
Hoist, oldest farm 133
Hoists 78
Home repair work, profitable 50
Horse clippers 231
Horse feeding rack 218
Horsepower 86
House plumbing 234
Husking-pin 208
Hydraulic ram 95
Idaho hay derricks 171
Implement shed 10
shed and work shop 12
Iron, forging 59
Irons for neckyoke and whiffletree 51
Iron roller 157
Iron working tools 42
Irrigation 112
by pumping 112
overhead spray 116
Jointer, carpenter's 27
Jointer plows 144
Jointing hand saw 65
Kerosene engine 92
Keyhole saw 20
Knife, asparagus 205
corn cutting 205
haystack 168
Knots 212
Lag screw 57
Land float 156
Level, carpenter's 24
iron stock 25
Lighting, gasoline 128
Linchpin farm wagons 185
Link, cold-shut 43
plow 58
Loading chute for hogs 235
Logging chain 50
Machines, driven 100
Machinist's hammers 42
vise 47
Manure carriers 233
Marline spike 212
Measuring mechanical work 14
Mechanical power, generating 74
Mechanics of plowing 138
Melting ladle 73
Monkey-wrench 19
Mule pump 84
Nail hammers 21
Nail set 37
Office, farm 194
Oilstone 15
Overhead spray irrigation 116
Oxen 181
Paint brushes 212
Pea guard 168
Picking fruit 212
Pig-pen, sanitary 210
Pincers 44
Pipe cutter 48
Pipe-fitting tools 46
Pipe vise 47
wrench 48
Plastering trowel 209
Pliers 18
Plow, heavy-breaking 224
riding 140
walking 138
Plowing by tractor 145
importance of 137
mechanics of 138
Plows, jointer 144
Scotch 143
Plumb-bob and plumb-line 206
Plumbing, house 234
Pod-bit 25
Portable farm engine 94
Post-hole diggers 204
Poultry feeding trough 222
Power conveyor 121
Power, generating mechanical 75
Power post drill 38
Power transmission 120
Pulverizers 155
Pump, air pressure 107
centrifugal 105
mule 84
jack 109
jacks and speed jacks 111
rotary 103
suction 101
Punches 37
Quantity of water to use in irrigation 118
Racks, feeding 217
sheep feeding 219
Rafter grapple 173
Rasp 35
Rasps and files 36
Ratchet-brace 40
Refrigeration 123
Reservoir for supplying water to farm buildings 120
Revolving hayrake 163
Riding plow 140
Ripsaw 21
Rivets 53
Rivet set 54
Road drag, split-log 220
steel 225
Road work 146
Roller 156
Roll filing 63
Roof pitches 200
truss 199
Root pulper 130
Rotary pumps 103
Round barn, economy of 196
Rule of six, eight and ten 199
Sand bands 187
caps 188
Sanitary pig-pen 210
Saw, hack 45
Scotch plows 143
Screwdriver 23
ratchet 24
Seed house trucks 226
Septic tank 235
Set-screws 64
Shave horse 18
Shears 217
Sheep feeding rack 219
Sheepshank 212
Ship auger 26
Shoeing horses 71
knife 34
tool box 34
Shop, garage and implement shed 10
Shop tools 14
Slaughter house 198
Sliding field gate 205
Snips, sheet metal 25
Soil auger 204
tools 202
Soil, working the 137
Speed indicator 201
jacks 111
Split-log road drag 220
Spud 205
Stable helps 232
Stall for milch goats 232
Steam boiler and engine 90
Steel, forging 59
road drag 225
square 22
tools, making 60
Stepladder 216
Stock for dies 55
Stone-boat 179
Stump puller 131
Suction pumps 101
Sulkey, colt-breaking 192
S wrenches 44
Tapeline 15
Taper reamer 41
tap 56
Taps and dies 55
Tempering steel tools 60
Tongs 43
Tool box for field use 72
handy 72
Tool rack, blacksmith 34
Tools for fence-making 205
for woodworking 19
for working iron 42
pipe-fitting 46
soil 202
Tractor economy 146
farm 97
transmission gear 98
used in plowing 145
uses for, on farm 146
Tram points 40
Travoy 183
Treadmill, bull 81
Tree pruners 216
Trowel, brick 209
plastering 209
Trucks, barn 226
Try-square 22
Twist-drills 25, 41
U bolt in cement 57
Uses of electricity on farm 126
Valves, brass 236
Vise 38
Wagon-box irons 57
Wagon brakes 186
seat spring 187
Walking plow 138
Water-power 88
Water storage 100
Waterworks, farm 100
Well sweep 76
Wheelbarrow 180
Wheel hoe 162
Winches 79
Windmills 83
Wire splice 52
splicer 44
stretcher 77
Wooden clamp 18
roller 157
Wood-saw frames 129
Woodworking bench 16
tools 19
Working the soil 137
Wrecking bar 24

_DRAKE'S MECHANICAL BOOKS_

---------------------------------------------------+-------+--------
*Title | Style | Price
---------------------------------------------------+-------+--------

=Electrical Books=

Electrical Tables and Engineering Data *Lea. $1.50
Electrical Tables and Engineering Data *Cloth 1.00
Motion Picture Operation *Lea. 1.50
Motion Picture Operation *Cloth 1.00
Alternating Current Lea. 1.50
Alternating Current Cloth 1.00
Wiring Diagrams and Descriptions *Lea. 1.50
Wiring Diagrams and Descriptions *Cloth 1.00
Armature and Magnet Winding *Lea. 1.50
Armature and Magnet Winding *Cloth 1.00
Modern Electric Illumination *Lea. 1.50
Modern Electric Illumination *Cloth 1.00
Modern Electrical Construction *Lea. 1.50
Modern Electrical Construction *Cloth 1.00
Electricians' Operating and Testing Manual *Lea. 1.50
Electricians' Operating and Testing Manual *Cloth 1.00
Drake's Electrical Dictionary Lea. 1.50
Drake's Electrical Dictionary Cloth 1.00
Electric Motors, Direct and Alternating *Lea. 1.50
Electric Motors, Direct and Alternating *Cloth 1.00
Electrical Measurements and Meter Testing Lea. 1.50
Electrical Measurements and Meter Testing Cloth 1.00
Drake's Telephone Handbook Lea. 1.50
Drake's Telephone Handbook Cloth 1.00
Elementary Electricity, Up-to-Date *Cloth 1.25
Electricity Made Simple *Cloth 1.00
Easy Electrical Experiments *Cloth 1.00
Wireless Telegraph and Telephone Handbook Cloth 1.00
Telegraphy, Self-taught Cloth 1.00
Dynamo-Electric Machines Cloth 1.50
Electro-Plating Handbook Lea. 1.50
Electro-Plating Handbook Cloth 1.00
Modern American Telephony Lea. 2.00
Handy Vest-Pocket Electrical Dictionary Lea. .50
Handy Vest-Pocket Electrical Dictionary Cloth .25
Storage Batteries Cloth .50
Elevators--Hydraulic and Electric Cloth 1.00
How to Become a Successful Motorman Lea. 1.50
Motorman's Practical Air Brake Instructor Lea. 1.50
Electric Railway Troubles Cloth 1.50
Electric Power Stations Cloth 2.50
Electrical Railroading Lea. 3.50