Chapter XIII: Care and Preservation

OILS AND CLEANING MATERIAL, TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES FOR ARTILLERY MATERIEL WITH THEIR USE.

In order that all parts of the materiel may function easily, it is necessary that all the working and bearing surfaces may be properly cleaned and lubricated with the appropriate lubricant. Where such surfaces are not directly accessible, oil holes are provided; these holes should be kept free from grit and dirt. Except during oiling, they should be kept fully closed by the means provided.

For use in service, for the cleaning and preservation of this materiel, the ordnance department issues hydroline oil, lubricating oil, clock oil, vaseline, sperm oil, coal oil, neat’s-foot oil and light slushing oil. Each of these oils are suited for the particular purpose for which it is issued, as stated below, and care should be taken that it is not used for other purposes.

=Hydroline oil.=—Used in the recoil cylinders of the carriage _and for no other purpose_. Never used as a lubricant. It is characterized by its low freezing point and its non-corrosive action on metals.

=Lubricating oil= (_Engine oil Number 1_).—A light petroleum oil used exclusively in all oil holes of the materiel, and in lubricating such parts as wheels and axles, guns and cradle slides, cradle pintle and socket elevating and traversing mechanisms, exterior of cylinders, brake bearings, hinges, different surfaces of breechblocks, threads, breech recess, et cetera.

=Clock oil.=—Used on the spindle and all gearings of the Battery Commander’s telescope, bearings of the panoramic sight, range quadrants and fuze setters. In all cases clock oil should be used only when the instruments mentioned are disassembled for cleaning. It should be applied by dropping from the end of the dropper attached to the end of the cork. In case of emergency, use as a substitute either sperm oil or Engine oil No. 1, in the order mentioned.

=Vaseline= (=Petrolatum=).—The heavy petroleum oil free from rosin. Used on the worm gears and the worm racks of the panoramic sight, the hand and bracket fuze setter, B. C. telescope, and on the micrometer screw and bushing of the quadrant. The spare parts of the breech mechanism should also be coated with vaseline and each piece then wrapped in paper to prevent the oil from being rubbed off.

=Sperm oil.=—A lighter lubricant than the lubricating oils, and may be used on the gears of sights, fuze setters, ranges, quadrants, parts of revolvers, et cetera; lubricating oil may also be used on such parts. It is also used as a temporary rust preventive. Its low viscosity and light body make it unsuitable for this purpose for more than a few days.

=Coal oil.=—Used for cleaning purposes. In the field it may be used for lanterns. Coal oil for general illuminating purposes is furnished by the quartermaster department.

=Neat’s-foot Oil.=—An animal oil used for softening and preserving leather. Applied with a moistened cloth to the flesh side of moistened leather.

=Light slushing oil.=—The heavy petroleum oil similar to cosmic. Used as a rust preventive. Essentially a mineral oil containing a large per cent of rosin. Prescribed for use in the protection and preservation of all bright or unpainted of steel or iron on all parts of the equipment when the materiel is to remain unused for an appreciable length of time. Its use as a lubricant for mobile artillery is forbidden. Before applying the slushing oil to any surface, the parts should be thoroughly cleaned so as to be free from rust, coal oil, lubricating oil, et cetera, as their presence will cause rusting under the slushing oil. The slushing oil should then be applied in a thin, uniform coat, since this is all that is necessary to give good protection. Except in very cold weather it can be applied by using a paint brush as when painting, in cold weather it should be applied by stippling—that is, by holding the brush perpendicular to the surface to be coated and then tapping the surface with the point of the brush. It can be applied through the bore of the gun by a slush brush issued for that purpose. In cold weather it should be warmed before used in the bore of the gun. It may be readily removed by burlap or waste dipped coal oil.

=Borax.=—Issued for use as a flux in welding.

=Lavaline.=—A metal polish issued interchangeable with Gibson’s soap polish. Used on bits and collars.

=Lye, powdered.=—When dissolved in water, one pound to six quarts with sufficient lime to give a consistence of paint, is used to remove old and blistered paint.

=Napthaline.=—A moth preventive, effective only after eggs and grubs already present have been removed. Used in the storage of blankets, et cetera.

=Polish, Gibson’s Soap.=—A metal polish issued interchangeably with lavaline. Used on bits and collars.

=Paint, rubberine.=—Used in connection with loading ammunition in accordance with instructions regarding the same.

=Primer, brown enamel.=—A hard, quick drying enamel used for painting parts of horse collars, draft springs, et cetera.

=Sal Soda, Bicarbonate of Soda.=—A saturated solution of soda and water makes an alkaline solution that will not rust. The solution must be saturated, that is, at least 20% or one-fourth pound of soda (6 heaping spoonfuls to one cup of water). This solution is an effective solvent of powder fouling and should always be used after firing, whether metal fouling solution is to be used or not. It reduces the labor of cleaning with oil alone by more than half. Used also in a weaker solution (one-half pound to 8 quarts of water) in washing surfaces to be painted and to remove dirt and grease.

=Soap, H. & H.=—A neutral naphtha soap used in washing blankets, web and cloth equipment. Applied in the form of a solution (one cake to 9 cups of hot water). If for any cause this soap is not obtainable, a good laundry soap (ivory or equal) may be used, but in no case should yellow soap containing a large percentage of alkali be used.

=Soap, castile.=—An alkaline soap used in cleaning leather equipment. Applied on a moistened sponge.

=Soap, saddle (Hollingshead).=—A soap used as a dressing for leather equipment. Applied with a thick lather on a moistened sponge.

=Swabbing solution, contains.=—Ammonium persulphate, 60 grains or one half spoonful smoothed off. Ammonia 28%, 6 oz. or ⅜ of a pint or 12 spoonfuls. Water, 4 oz. or ¼ pint or 8 spoonfuls. Dissolve the ammonium persulphate in the water and add the ammonia. Keep in a tightly corked bottle. Pour out only what is necessary at a time and keep the bottle corked.

TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES.

In the repair of all equipment, it is literally true that “a stitch in time saves nine,” and that a timely repair will save the entire article.

=Tool Kits= will be kept complete and serviceable; edges of cold chisels free from nicks; drifts and punches properly shaped immediately after using; and files kept clean.

To prevent unscrewing, _copper wire_ is used to lash nuts and other threaded parts which are not secured by split pins.

=Contents of Leather Pouch for Spare Parts (carried in Trail Boxes of 3-inch Guns)=:—

For Breechblock—

50 Split pins
1 Block latch and spring
1 Firing pin and spring
1 Firing pin sleeve
2 Handy oilers, 5-16 inch
1 Hinge pin catch
1 Lever latch spring
1 Locking bolt, nut and pin
1 Locking bolt spring
2 Oil hole covers with screws
1 Pallet pin
1 Sear
2 Trigger shaft detent

For Hand Fuze Setter—

2 Corrector scale screws
1 Guide plate lock screw
2 Index bar screws
1 Index plunger and spring
2 Oil hole screws
1 Range index
3 Range ring screws
1 Stop pin screw

For Bracket Fuze Setter—

1 Corrector scale screw
3 Guide screws
4 Housing screws & split washers
1 Knob washer
1 Range worm crank & knob taper pin
1 Range worm crank handle
2 Range ring screws
3 Split pins (0.125)
1 Spring and spring cover with screw
2 Stop pins with rivets

For Cylinder—

1 Drain-plug, cylinder
1 Elevating & traversing lock spring
1 Filling plug (piston rod)
5 Rings Garlock packing, ¾ in

=Special Wrenches=, =Spanners=, other tools and accessories will be used only for the purposes for which they are intended. This purpose is usually stamped upon the tool.

In assembling or disassembling parts of the materiel, no part will be struck directly with a =hammer=. If force is necessary, a piece of _wood_ or _copper_ should be interposed between the hammer and the part struck. All nuts are provided with _split pins_ as keepers.

A pair of =wire cutting pliers= is provided for use in pulling split pins, cutting wire lashings, etc. When a nut is assembled the split pin should always be inserted and properly opened.

=Axes, hatchets, picks, pick mattocks and shovels= are carried on the carriage for use in the field and will not be put to other uses. The working edges will be kept bright and lightly oiled, the edges being sharpened if intended for cutting, or smooth if intended for digging. _Deformed blades_, _edges_ or _points_ should be straightened at the anvil and forge or in a vise. _Shovel points_ are straightened with a hammer on a block of wood.

The _side edges_ of _shovel blades_ should not be used as a mattock, as such treatment will deform the blade. In the field, _split handles_ should be wrapped with a cord until they can be replaced by new handles.

_Canvas Buckets_ are used for watering animals, for washing carriages and equipment. Whenever possible, they should be dried before folding and replacing in the holders on the carriages.

A rip or hole may be patched and made practically water-tight by a coat of shellac.

_Lanterns_ are used for illuminating purposes in the field only.

_Paulins_ are used to cover the harness and guns when in the field or in park. On the march they are carried on the carriages, being folded to serve as seat cushions. Holes and tears should always be properly sewed, stitched or darned as soon as practicable.

_Picket Ropes_ are used in the field as drag ropes for the carriages or as picket lines for the animals. The ropes must be in a serviceable condition and free from knots. To keep them in a serviceable condition, splicing may often be necessary.

CARE AND CLEANING OF THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE CARRIAGES.

=To disassemble and to clean the cylinder.=—For cleaning, the cylinder is dismounted and emptied and the cylinder head, counter recoil buffer, and piston rod removed. The interior of the cylinder, the piston, the counter recoil buffer and the stuffing box should then be thoroughly cleaned by the use of cotton waste. The removal of the packing is not necessary in cleaning. The cylinder bore should be carefully inspected, and if any rust has formed it should be removed with coal oil, using if necessary, fine emery cloth. The latter must be used with great care to prevent any increase in the clearance between the piston and the cylinder. If rubbing, burring, or scoring of the parts is noted, the rough spots should be carefully smoothed down by a skilled workman with a dead smooth file or with emery cloth, and the cause of the roughness ascertained and removed. Where unusual rubbing or scoring has occurred, the facts will be reported to the Officer of the Ordnance Department charged with the duty of keeping the battery in repair, for his information and action. The exterior of the cylinder should be kept well oiled and free from rust and dirt, and an inspection made at least once a month to ascertain its condition. Where rust has formed it should be removed with coal oil, and, if necessary, emery cloth. For shipment or storage, or where the carriage is to stand without firing for extended periods, the cylinder should be coated with the light slushing oil used for the bore of guns.

=To fill the recoil cylinder.=—If the cylinder is not completely filled, loss of stability will occur and higher stresses than normal will be developed in the carriage. For this reason the cylinder should be filled with the greatest care, a commissioned should, himself, verify that the cylinder is full and that no air is left in it, exception of the void noted below. It is far easier to fill the cylinder when it is disassembled from the cradle. If assembled in the cradle, bring the gun to its maximum elevation and remove both filling and drain plugs. It is necessary that the drain plug holes should be lubricated on top of the cylinder. Fill through the hole in the piston rod. Allow a few minutes for the air to escape and the oil to settle.

Refill and repeat two or three times. When satisfied that the cylinder is entirely full of oil, insert both plugs, and depress the gun to its maximum depression. After a few moments elevate again to its maximum elevation and unscrew both plugs. Now refill as described above. When entirely full, allow not more than two cubic inches (about one-fourth of a gill) of the oil to escape, insert both plugs and lash them with copper wire. It may happen that after firing a few rounds the gun will not return to battery. This may be due to, first, weakness of springs, second, stuffing box gland being screwed up too tight, or third, the oil having expanded, due to heat. It any case the cause must be ascertained and remedied, if due to expansion of oil, it is proven by the fact that the gun cannot be pushed into battery by force exerted on the breech of the gun. In that case elevate the gun to its maximum elevation and remove the filling plug. The oil will now escape permitting the gun to return to battery. In emergencies, water may be used in the cylinder. This should be done only when absolutely necessary, and never in freezing weather, and as soon as practicable the cylinder should be emptied, cleaned, and thoroughly dried and filled with hydroline oil. About 9 pints of hydroline oil are required for filling the recoil cylinder.

=To empty the recoil cylinder.=—The cylinder may be emptied either when assembled or disassembled from the cradle. In either case, remove both the filling and drain plugs, depress the forward end of the cylinder and drain the contents into a clean can or other receptacle over which a piece of linen or muslin has been stretched, for straining the oil.

=To clean the recoil cylinder oil.=—The hydroline oil used in the cylinder should be cleaned and free from grit and dirt. The oil should be stored in the closed cans provided for the purpose, and be carefully protected from dirt, sand, or water. Oil withdrawn from the cylinders and containing any sediment must not be used again until it has been allowed to settle for not less than 24 hours. When sediment has thus been permitted to settle great care must be taken not to disturb it in removing the oil. To insure the cleanliness of all cylinder oil it should be strained through a clean piece of linen or muslin before using.

=To clean the bore of the gun.=—After firing and at other times when necessary, the bore of the gun should be cleaned to remove the residue of smokeless powder, and then oiled. In cleaning, wash the bore with a solution made by dissolving one-half pound of Sal Soda in one gallon of boiling water. After washing with the soda solution, wipe perfectly dry and then oil the bore with a thin coating of the light slushing oil furnished for that purpose. Briefly stated, the care of the bore consists of removing the fouling resulting from firing, in obtaining a chemically clean surface and in coating this surface with a film of oil to prevent rusting. The fouling which results from firing of two kinds—one, the production of combustion of powder, the other, copper scraped off the rotating band. Powder fouling because of its acid reaction, is highly corrosive, that is, it will induce rust and must be removed. Metal fouling of itself is unactive, but its presence prevents the action of cleaning agents. It should be removed if it accumulates. At every opportunity in the intermission of fire, the bore of the gun should be cleaned and lubricated.

=To clean the breech mechanism.=—The breech mechanism should be kept clean and well lubricated. It should be dismounted for examination and oiled when assembled.

=To clean the recoil springs.=—Dismount to clean. All rust should be removed and the springs well oiled before assembling. When the springs are dismounted the interior of the cradle should be cleaned and examined for defective riveting, missing rivet heads and scoring. The condition of the spring support guide should be noted and all burrs or scores carefully smoothed off.

=To clean, lubricate and care for the elevating and traversing mechanism.=—The contact surfaces between the cradle and the rocker should be kept clean, thoroughly oiled, and free from rust. If indications of rusting, cutting, or scoring of these surfaces appear, the cradle should be dismounted, the rust removed, and rough spots smoothed away. The elevating and traversing mechanisms should be dismounted for thorough cleaning and overhauling. They should be kept well oiled and should work easily. If at any time either mechanism works harder than usual, it should be immediately overhauled and the cause discovered and removed. In traveling, the cradle should be locked to the trail by means of the elevating and traversing lock, so as to relieve the pointing mechanism of all travel stresses.

=To clean, lubricate and care for the wheels.=—The wheel and wheel fastenings should be dismounted periodically and the fastenings, hub boxes, axle arms, and axle bore cleaned and examined. All roughness due to scoring or cutting should be smoothed off. The hollow part of the axle acts as a reservoir for the oil to lubricate the wheel bearings. Experience will show how much oil is needed, but enough should be used to insure that the oil will pass through the axle arms to the hub caps. The nuts on the hub bolts should be tightened monthly during the first year of service and twice a year thereafter. The ends of the bolts should be lightly riveted over to prevent the nut from unscrewing. When the hub bolts are tightened, the hub band should be screwed up as tightly as possible against the lock washer at the outer end of the hub ring.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF MATERIEL

Assembling and Disassembling.

(a) Cradle mechanism, cylinder, springs et cetera.

All work upon recoil cylinders, sights, and other optical equipment should be done in the presence of a commissioned officer. The recoil cylinder should never be clamped in a vise, but when necessary to hold it from turning, a spanner applied to the front end of cylinder should be used. Never remove the cylinder end stud nut when the piece is at an elevation. See that proper kind of oil is used in cylinders and for lubrication. Strain the oil used in filling the cylinders through a fine clean cloth and be sure that the receptacles used in handling the oil are clean. Take every precaution to keep the interior of the cylinders clean and to prevent the entrance of foreign particles. In assembling the gland be sure that at least four threads of the gland are engaged with the threads of the cylinder head. Lash parts with copper wire to prevent unscrewing. Close down the ends of the recoil-indicator guide to avoid loss of the indicator. Prevent possible injury to cannoneers by causing them to stand clear of the counter-recoil spring column in assembling or dismounting. Remove cylinder end stud screw before trying to unscrew cylinder end stud.

(b) Gun

In moving the gun on or off the cradle, provide ample support for the breech end, so that the gun clips are in prolongation of the cradle guides; if this is not done the cradle guides may be ruined.

(c) Elevating and traversing mechanism.

If the gun will not remain at the elevation at which set, the crank shafts are probably not correctly assembled. If the elevating screw do not house in traveling, they are incorrectly assembled.

(d) Sights and quadrant.

Frequently verify the adjustments of sights and quadrant. Require special care in handling sights. Do not permit cannoneers to use front sight as a handle in mounting. Be sure that the range disk of the quadrant and range strip of the rear sight shank are graduated for the particular type of ammunition used by the battery. This also applies to the fuze setter.

Care of Materiel.

(a) Parts of the Carriages.

All nuts are secured by split pins, which should be replaced and properly opened when nuts are screwed home. Do not strike any metal part directly with a hammer; interpose a buffer of wood or copper. All working and bearing surfaces of the carriage require oiling; those not directly accessible for this purpose are provided with oil holes closed by spring covers or handy oilers. Do not permit brake levers to be released with a kick or blow. It has been found that the apron hinges occasionally become broken, and that the apron hinge pins are frequently lost. Whenever this happens the hinge or hinge-pins should be immediately replaced. For if this is not done the apron, which is very expensive is apt to become cracked or broken. When the lunette becomes loosened the lunette nuts should at once be tightened.

(b) Wheels.

Keep hub bolts and hub bands properly tightened. To tighten the hub bands screw them as tightly as possible with a wrench and then force them farther by striking the end of the wrench with a hammer. All wheels and pintle bearings should be frequently oiled.

(c) Inspections.

Battery commander should frequently make a detailed inspection of all the vehicles in the battery, to see if any parts of them are broken or if any screws, nuts, split-pins, et cetera are missing. If any such defects are found they should immediately take steps to replace missing or broken parts. At these inspections the material should also be examined to ascertain whether the cleaning schedules have been properly carried out. Compliance with these instructions will do much toward prolonging the life of the carriage.

Firing, Precautions and Preparations for.

Before firing, inspect to see that cylinders are properly closed and that the cylinder end stud nut and piston rod-nut are in place. If time permits, oil slides before firing. Note length of recoil for the first few shots to be sure that the recoil mechanism is working properly. There is no danger as long as the recoil does not exceed 48 inches. Therefore, for first shot always set recoil indicator for about 42 inches. If the gun fails to return fully into battery, it is probably due (1) to dirt on slides and guides, (2) to cutting of slide surfaces on account of lack of oil, (3) to gland being screwed up too tightly, (4) to dirt or foreign particles in the cylinder, and especially in the counter recoil buffer recess, (5) to weakness of springs, 90% of such cases will be found to be due to 1, 2 or 3. Lock the cradle to the trail at drill and at traveling to avoid unnecessary strain upon the pointing mechanism. After unlimbering, release elevating and traversing lock before attempting to elevate or traverse gun.

Cleaning and Care of Leather.

All leather contains more or less oil. When the amount of oil decreases the leather becomes harder, less pliable, and shows a tendency to crack. It loses its elasticity and breaks more readily under sudden strains. Exposure to the sun evaporates the oil and exposure to the rain washes it out, both conditions tending in the long run to bring the same result, namely, hardening and stiffening of the leather. Accumulations of foreign substances are very injurious for they tend to absorb the oil from the leather underneath, leaving it dry and hard, or they retain moisture on the surface, prevent the air from getting to it and rot the leather. Also many substances such as perspiration and excretion from the horse contain chemicals which are very injurious. For these reasons all leather must be kept clean. The cleaning agent used is castile soap with water. All pieces should be taken apart and as much dirt and dust as possible removed with a damp sponge or cloth. All remaining dirt is then removed by washing with castile soap and water. In doing this always use as little water as possible. Wring the sponge out nearly dry, rub it on the soap and work it with the hands until a thick, creamy lather is formed. Then scrub the leather thoroughly until all dirt is removed. Special care should be taken around spots that have been in contact with metal perspiration or excreta. If there is an old accumulation of dirt a soft stick may be used to scrape this off. Never allow a knife or a piece of glass to be used or any sharp edged instrument. After all dirt is removed run the sponge in one direction, all the way along the leather to remove all remaining dirt and extra lather. Never allow the pieces to be rinsed off in a bucket of water. Metal parts should be washed thoroughly and dried and if necessary any rust removed with a crocus cloth. Although as little water as possible is used some of the oil in the leather will certainly be washed out, and, to keep the leather in proper condition, it must be replaced. After an ordinary cleaning this is normally done by an application of saddle soap. Saddle soap is not a cleaning agent—only a dressing for leather. It contains enough oil to replace, if properly applied, all loss through ordinary use. It is used in the same manner as castile soap, in the form of a thick, creamy lather, rubbed well into the leather and allowed to dry. The leather should be well rubbed with the hands while drying, to keep it soft and pliable, and to work the oil in. Always allow it to dry in the shade, preferably for several hours, and never assemble pieces, especially fastening straps into buckles until thoroughly dry. Oil is never applied directly to leather unless it has become so hard and dry that saddle soap is not sufficient to soften it. There is only one oil issued for that purpose. That is “Neat’s Foot Oil.” This should only be applied to the flesh side of the leather and very lightly. Several light applications give much better results than a few heavy ones. The oil should be well rubbed in with the hands and should be preferably applied after cleaning the leather with castile soap and water, as the pores of the leather are then more open and the oil penetrates much better. Never oil leather until it becomes greasy, for, besides wasteful, it makes the leather too spongy. In emergencies, where Neat’s Foot Oil cannot be procured any good vegetable oil may be used, preferably olive oil. This is only for emergencies and is not to be used unless Neat’s Foot Oil or saddle soap cannot be had. All new leather equipment should be cleaned with castile soap and water as soon as unpacked as leather very often becomes covered with mold after being packed in boxes for some time. Ordnance leather as it comes to the battery is very dry and should be thoroughly oiled before being used. New equipment after being washed thoroughly, should be given, in several light applications as much oil as it will absorb without becoming greasy. Each application should be allowed to dry thoroughly and should be given frequent rubbings to soften the leather. With the proper kind of preparation for use there is no excuse for the large amount of broken new leather equipment which is so common. In packing harness for shipment, especially into harness sacks the harness should be cleaned and oiled and then dried for at least twenty-four hours before putting into the sacks. After removing from the sacks at the destination, cleaning and dressing with saddle soap is sufficient. When the leather is dirty, clean it—not to improve its looks but to preserve it. When wet allow it to dry in a warm (not hot) place, in cold weather; or in the shade in summer. When it is dry apply saddle soap or oil. Never hang any piece of equipment over a nail or sharp edge as cracks always develop where the leather has been folded over sharply. Ordinary oils and greases rot leather, so all such equipment must be kept away from contact with them. Never leave any piece of leather where it will chafe against any sharp edge or corner and never leave it exposed to the sun longer than necessary.

Care of Cloth Equipment.

All cloth equipment should be kept as clean as possible by continual brushing. The fewer times necessary to wash it, the longer its life. Canvas goods such as paulins, webbing, etc., when it becomes necessary to wash them should be scrubbed with Paco, or H. & H. soap and water. Make a solution of one cake of either soap in nine cups of hot water. Brush the article to be cleaned thoroughly and spread it on a clean table. Scrub with the above solution and scrubbing brush until a good lather appears. Rinse in clean water and hang in the shade to dry. Woolen articles may be cleaned in the same manner or with ordinary laundry soap. The first method being always the best. It is preferable to wash these in cool or warm water, as hot water shrinks them. Never wring woolens out, but after washing, rinse in clean water and hang immediately up to dry. Saddle blankets should be kept well brushed and should be frequently unfolded, hung in the sun and beaten with a whip. When removed from the horse they should be doubled over with the wet side out and put in the shade to dry. If no shade is available, and they must be exposed to the sun, always fold the wet side inward. With these precautions, saddle blankets should not need washing oftener than twice a year. In washing immerse the blanket in tepid soap suds repeatedly until clean, rinse in clean water, and hang in the sun to dry. Do not scrub the blanket.

Care of Metal.

All metal equipment should be kept clean and free from rust. Coal oil is used to remove rust, but it must always be removed as it will rust the metal if allowed to remain. The coal oil should be applied to the metal and if possible allowed to remain for a short time. This will loosen and partially dissolve the rust so that it can be rubbed off with a rag or a sponge. Continued applications may be necessary if there is much rust. A solution of Sal Soda is also a good rust remover. The articles must be washed thoroughly after using this to remove all traces of the soda as it is a very active corrosive. Never scour metals to remove rust if it can be avoided as this leaves a roughened surface which will rust again much more easily. Polished surfaces such as brass fittings should be cleaned and polished with Lavaline. This may also be used on the bearing surfaces of steel collars. All surfaces after cleaning should be dried thoroughly and if not painted should be greased with cosmis or cosmoline. These form an air-proof coating over the metal surface so that no moisture may reach it and cause rusting. If the metal is not dried thoroughly, some moisture may be held between the grease and the metal surface which will in time cause rust to appear. Care must be taken that the grease covers the surface completely. All surfaces against which there is no friction should be painted and kept so. Ordinary olive drab or collar paint is very satisfactory for this purpose.

Care of Guns During and After Firing.

Always while firing keep the bore as clean as possible. If there is time to swab out between shots, do so. During continued firing a bucket of water should be kept near the gun, and the sponge on the rammers staff kept wet while swabbing. Watch the recoil indicator and occasionally push it ahead so as to be sure you are getting a correct reading. Be sure that the gun returns fully into battery after each shot. Keep the ammunition, and especially the rotating bands, free from dust and dirt.

The rotating band should be greased very lightly with cosmis just before inserting the projectile into the breech. In continued firing, oil the slides frequently. Keep the fuze setter clean and be careful that no dirt gets down around the stop pin. Examine the breech recess frequently and wipe out all dirt and brass filing that may accumulate. The gun should be cleaned thoroughly immediately after firing. Make a solution of one pound of sal soda in one gallon of boiling water. Remove the breechblock and carrier, and let one man clean and oil it thoroughly while the rest of the gun is being cleaned. Remove the sponge from the rammer staff, and over the brass rammer, fit a piece of folded burlap. Fold this burlap as many times as you can and still force it through the bore. Soak the burlap in the sal soda solution and swab the bore out thoroughly. Be careful to remove all copper filing, and the bore should be as bright as a piece of glass when finished. After cleaning it is best though not absolutely necessary to swab out with clean water. Then dry thoroughly with a dry swab, and grease every exposed surface. In cleaning the breechblock and firing mechanism always dismantle it completely. Clean and oil the slides, fuze setters and all parts of the carriage. Decap the empty cartridge cases and wash them out thoroughly with the sal soda solution. There is a decapping set with every battery. Rinse out in clean water and set them in the sun to dry.

A CLEANING SCHEDULE FOR MATERIEL.

Daily.

Before leaving the park:

1. Unlock boxes and chests and secure them with snaps.

2. See that all tools, paulins, etc., are secure.

After returning to the park:

1. Remove from carriages all dust, excess oil and mud. Examine for missing nuts, split pins, broken parts and parts that need adjustment. Make necessary repairs.

2. Clean and oil breech recess and breechblock; after firing, clean bore with salsoda solution, wipe perfectly dry and oil.

3. Oil wheels, elevating and traversing mechanism, tools if necessary.

4. See that all oil holes are properly closed and that carriages are ready for immediate use.

5. Clean and oil without dismounting; rear sight, quadrant and fuze setter.

6. Lock all boxes and chests.

7. Signal detail: clean all instruments, oil all exposed bearing surfaces. Test telephones and go over all wire used that day and repair same by covering exposed parts. Have all instruments, wire etc., ready for immediate use.

8. Clean all collars and bits and dry the blankets; wipe dirt from the harness.

9. Clean and oil all pistols and revolvers that have been used that day.

Weekly.

1. Wash and clean entire carriage.

2. Disassemble and clear all oil breech mechanism. Always do so immediately after firing.

3. Clean out and fill with oil, all oil holes of gun clips and cradle pintle.

4. Clean all leather straps as you would clean harness.

5. Take apart and thoroughly clean all parts of harness.

6. Take apart and clean and oil all pistols and revolvers.

7. Clean with castile soap and harness soap all leather of the personal equipment.

Monthly.

1. Disassemble the following and clean and oil: elevating mechanism, traversing mechanism.

2. Pull from battery and clean and oil guide rails and clips. Trip gun and test recoil.

3. Tighten all hub nuts and inspect wheels for dish.

4. Take off wheels, clean and oil axles and hubs. Replace hub liner when necessary.

5. Dismount poles, double trees and spare pole, clean and oil.

6. Dismount rear sight bracket from support, clean and oil. Do the same for the front sight.

Every Three Months.

1. Dismount, clean, oil and assemble the recoil mechanism.

2. Inspect the surplus kits and replace all articles that are not in proper condition.

3. Unpack, clean, oil and repack the battery and store wagons, forge limber.

Every Six Months.

1. Inspect all articles of the permanent camp equipment, dry, oil and repair when needed. Pitch tentage for examination and drying.

2. Examine all articles in store such as leather, harness and spare metal parts. Clean the harness, dub the leather, oil all metal parts.

PRECAUTIONS AND GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.

1. Never allow steel parts to be struck with a steel hammer. Always use a copper drift between the hammer and the steel part.

2. Never try to force a delicate part if stuck. The sticking is probably due to rust and the parts can be loosened by soaking in coal oil or by heating the exterior surfaces with a torch.

3. Be careful in using screw drivers or wrenches not to let them slip and thus ruin the heads of the screw or nut.

4. Insist upon the rule that any part needing repairs be repaired immediately upon arrival in garrison or camp.

5. Never allow a broken part to be stored except for the action of an inspector or survey.

6. Before any article is put away for storage, have it thoroughly inspected and make necessary repairs.

7. See that all articles of your equipment are always marked or stamped with the insignia and the battery number.

8. Hold all members of your organization responsible for any carelessness or negligence in the care of the equipment.