Chapter XIX: Part C

[64]Report on the Petrified Forests of Arizona, Dept. of Interior, 1900.

[65]The cracking of the wood in recent years has lately required the
bolstering up of this interesting petrified bridge by artificial
support, so that venturesome visitors may still enjoy walking across
it.

[66]This is also readily reached from Holbrook station on the Santa Fe
railway, where conveyance may be obtained. The distance from Holbrook
is 18 miles.

[67]Automobile service may be had at Adamana for a number of points of
interest within reach. Among these are the fine pueblo ruins of
Kin-tyel (Wide House) 48 miles to the northeast—a village believed to
have been built by certain clans of the Zuñis in their prehistoric
migrations.

[68]The name is said to date from a certain Fourth of July, some 60
years ago, when a party of emigrants camped on the site of the future
town and flew the Stars and Stripes from a pole erected in honor of
the National holiday.

[69]Those of Walnut Cañon, about 10 miles southeast of Flagstaff, are
especially easy of access. For particulars concerning the cinder-cone
ruins (9 miles northeast of Flagstaff and also 12 miles east) the
student is referred to Dr. J. W. Fewkes’s descriptions in the 22nd
Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology, pp. 35-39.

[70]The name commemorates “Old” Bill Williams, a noted frontiersman of
the 1830’s and ’40’s, identified with Fremont’s fourth and ill-fated
expedition, which Williams undertook to guide across the Rockies and
failed because of the snow and cold. A tributary of the Colorado
River also bears his name.

[71]About 10 miles eastwardly; a remarkable little volcanic mountain
with a cratered summit, the glowing red rock of which it is made up
giving the upper part of the mountain the appearance at any time of
day of being illumined by the setting sun. It may be made the
objective of a pleasant half day’s trip from Flagstaff.

[72]“The Hopi,” Walter Hough.

[73]H. H. Robinson, “The San Francisco Volcanic Field,” Washington,
1913.

[74]The varied tints of the Painted Desert are due to the coloration of
the rocks and clays which form its surface. Some additional tone is
given at times by the vegetation that springs up after rainfall.

[75]These two together with a third called Inscription House Ruin (20
miles west of Betata Kin and so named because of certain Spanish
inscriptions upon it dated 1661) form what is called the Navajo
National Monument. At Kayenta, a post office and trading post of
Messrs. Wetherill and Colville some 20 miles southeast of Betata Kin,
pack outfits and guide may be secured to visit these ruins. Dr. J. W.
Fewkes’s description, Bulletin 50, Bureau of American Ethnology,
should be consulted for details.

[76]The Red Rock country is also reached via Cornville and Sedona by
conveyance from Clarkdale on the Verde Valley branch of the Santa Fe
Railway, or from Jerome on the United Verde railroad.

[77]The name commemorates that lieutenant of Coronado’s, Don Pedro de
Tovar, who in 1540 visited the Hopi villages, where he learned of the
existence of the Grand Cañon, and carried the news of it back to
Coronado at Zuñi.

[78]The exact spot of this first view is not known—the point that today
bears the name of Cárdenas being a random guess.

[79]The first complete exploration of the river cañons was made in 1869,
by an expedition in charge of Major J. W. Powell, the noted
ethnologist and geologist. He had boats especially built for the
trip. It was an undertaking of supreme danger, forming, as Mr. F. S.
Dellenbaugh says in his interesting “Romance of the Colorado River,”
“one of the distinguished feats of history;” for not one of the
pioneering party could have any conception of what physical obstacles
were before them when the boats set out at the Cañon’s head into the
unknown. Powell was a Civil War veteran and had but one hand. He made
a second and more leisurely trip in 1871-72.

[80]Bright Angel is the name given by the first Powell expedition to a
creek entering the river here from the north; its bright, clear
waters being in striking contrast to a turbid little tributary
discovered not long before, which the men had dubbed “Dirty Devil
Creek.”

[81]It is not a true salmon. Dr. David Starr Jordan identifies it as
_Ptychocheilus lucius_, and it is really a huge chub or minnow. There
is a record of one caught weighing 80 pounds; more usual are
specimens of 10 and 12 pounds.

[82]An interesting trip with the Grand Cañon as a base is to Cataract
Cañon, a side gorge of the Grand Cañon about 40 miles west of El
Tovar. The trip may be made by wagon to the head of the trail leading
down into an arm of Cataract Cañon, but the final lap—about 15
miles—must be on horseback or afoot. At the bottom is the reservation
of a small tribe of Indians—the Havasupais—occupying a fertile,
narrow valley hedged in by high cliffs of red limestone. There are
numerous springs and the water is used to irrigate the fields and
peach orchards of the tribe. These Indians are much Americanized, and
live under the paternal care of a local Government agency. A feature
of the Cañon is the number of fine water falls. To one exquisite one,
called Bridal Veil, it would be hard to find anywhere a mate. A
camping trip eastward from Grand View along the rim to the Little
Colorado Junction may also be made a pleasant experience, rendered
particularly glorious by the desert views.

[83]Jerome is reached by a little railway from Jerome Junction on the
Ash Fork and Phoenix division of the Santa Fe; Clarkdale, by a branch
from Cedar Glade on the same division. The Clarkdale branch threads
for much of the way the picturesque cañon of the upper Verde River.

[84]There is, however, no evidence of volcanic action in the vicinity;
so the depression—deep as it is—is doubtless the result of solvent or
erosive action of the waters of the Well. (J. W. Fewkes, 17th Ann.
Rep. Bureau of American Ethnology.)

[85]17th Annual Report, Bureau of American Ethnology.

[86]The climate is noted for its mildness and salubrity. There is a
local saying, “If a man wants to die in San Antonio, he must go
somewhere else!”

[87]Pronounced _ah´la-mo_, Spanish for cottonwood. The name was probably
given from cottonwoods growing near by. The Church of the Alamo was
erected in 1744.

[88]The reader, curious for details of the San Antonio Missions, as well
as items of local secular history, is referred to Wm. Corner’s “San
Antonio de Béxar.” He will also be interested in a picturesque sketch
of San Antonio as it was nearly half a century ago, by the Southern
poet Sidney Lanier, who in quest of health passed the winter of
1872-3 here, and here made his resolve, faithfully carried out, to
devote the remainder of his life to music and poetry. The sketch is
printed in a collection of Lanier’s essays entitled “Retrospects and
Prospects.”

[89]These three Missions were originally located about 15 years earlier
on sites some distance from San Antonio. Scarcity of irrigation water
is given as one important cause of their removal in 1731 to the banks
of the San Antonio River.

[90]Silver and gold gave it its start. Its name is believed to be due to
a huge bowlder or globe of silver weighing 300 pounds, found there in
1876.

[91]Pronounced _Too-son´_. It is the name applied by the neighboring
Papago Indians to a mountain at the west of the present town, and
according to Dr. W. J. McGee, means “black base.” Tucson’s first
appearance in history seems to have been in 1763, as an Indian
village whose spiritual needs were served by the missionaries of San
Xavier del Bac. In 1776 a Spanish presídio was established here, and
the little pueblo became San Agustin de Tucson. An edifice,
originally a church dedicated to St. Augustine but now a lodging
house, still faces the old Spanish plaza of the town.

[92]“An escutcheon with a white ground filed in with a twisted cord ...
and a cross on which are nailed one arm of Our Saviour and one of St.
Francis, representing the union of the disciple and the divine Master
in charity and love. The arm of our Lord is bare while that of St.
Francis is covered.” (Salpointe, “Soldiers of the Cross.”)

[93]Engelhardt, “The Franciscans in Arizona.” The diaries of Garcés are
marked by naïve charm and simplicity. One, translated and elaborately
annotated by the late Dr. Elliott Coues, has been published under the
title “On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer.”

[94]It stands on the west (opposite) side of the river from the railway,
a fact that may be fraught with trouble; for the river, which is
ordinarily insignificant enough to be crossed on a plank, is capable
of becoming after storms a raging flood 200 feet wide and 20 deep.
Under such circumstances, it is the part of wisdom to motor from
Tucson.

[95]In the sanctuary were interred, and I suppose still repose, the
bones of the Franciscan Padres Baltasar Carillo and Narciso
Gutierres, whom Archbishop Salpointe in his “Soldiers of the Cross,”
credits with being the supervising builders both of the present
church of Tumacácori and that of San Xavier.

[96]Dr. F. W. Fewkes gives this and several other folk tales concerning
the Casa Grande in the 28th Report of the Bureau of American
Ethnology, which should be consulted for an exhaustive account of the
ruin and the Government excavation work.

[97]The following all-day trips are especially recommended:

1. To Redlands, in the San Bernardino foothills, one of the most
beautiful of California towns, and Riverside with its famous Mission
Inn (about 145 miles the round, including the ascent of Mt.
Roubidoux), traversing a beautiful orange and lemon district and
paralleling the stately Sierra Madre, whose highest peaks are
snow-capped in winter. (If there is time for another day this trip
may be extended in winter or spring to include the run to Palm
Springs in the desert, 50 miles beyond Redlands. This is
particularly enjoyable in March and April when the wild flowers of
the desert are in bloom—a surprising and lovely sight. There is a
good hotel at Palm Springs, but it is safest to arrange ahead for
accommodations).

2. To Mission San Juan Capistrano (about 120 miles the round), one
of the most interesting and poetic in its half ruin of the old
Franciscan California establishments. The road traverses the rich
agricultural districts tributary to Whittier and Santa Ana, and a
portion of the extensive Irvine, or San Joaquin Ranch (about 100,000
acres). A detour may be made to include Laguna and Arch Beaches and
a run (over an inferior road) of ten miles overlooking a picturesque
rock-bound bit of Pacific surf.

3. To Mount Wilson Peak (50 miles the round, but includes 9 miles of
tortuous mountain road with a grade as high as 23% in one or two
spots). On this peak (6000 feet above the sea) are situated the
buildings of the Carnegie Solar Observatory, which, however, are not
open to the public. The views from the peak are very beautiful. The
trip can also be made by public auto-stage. There is a hotel at the
summit.

4. To Camulos Rancho (95 miles the round), a good example of the old
style Spanish-California ranch, utilized by Mrs. Jackson as the
scene of part of her novel “Ramona.” It is situated in the Santa
Clara Valley of the South. A stop may be made en route at Mission
San Fernando. The return trip may be made by way of Topanga Cañon
and the seaside town of Santa Monica, if an extra hour can be given
to it.

Half-day drives in the vicinity of Los Angeles are too numerous to
be itemized here, but the following may be mentioned:

1. To the Mission San Fernando by way of Hollywood (famous for its
beautiful homes, and latterly as the capital of “Movie-land”) and
through the Cahuenga Pass, returning via the Topanga Cañon, the
beach and Santa Monica.

2. To Sunland via Alhambra and Santa Anita Avenue to the Foothill
Boulevard, Altadena, and La Cañada, returning via Roscoe and
Tropico.

3. To Mission San Gabriel, returning by way of Pasadena’s famous
residential districts of Oak Knoll and Orange Grove Boulevard,
thence over the Arroyo Seco Bridge and past the Annandale Country
Club, back to the city.

4. To Whittier and the citrus-fruit belt of the San Gabriel Valley
via either Turnbull or Brea Cañons (the latter picturesque with oil
derricks) returning by the Valley Boulevard.

[98]“The California Padres and their Missions,” by C. F. Saunders and J.
S. Chase.

[99]The San Marcos road has some stiff grades and should only be
traveled by experienced drivers.

[100]For a more detailed account of the tourist attractions in Southern
California, reference is made to the author’s “Finding the Worth
While in California.”

INDEX

A
Abó, 60, 62.
Acevedo, Fr. Francisco, de, 60, 63.
Acoma Pueblo, 68.
Adamana, 130.
Alamo, The, 179.
Albuquerque, 43.
Anza, Juan Bautista, 198, 202.
Apache Trail, 190.
Arch Beach, 209.
Awátobi, 121.

B
Bácavi Pueblo, 119.
Bandelier, A. F., 34, 54, 59.
Beaver Creek, 164.
Bernalillo, 49.
Betata Kin Ruins, 148.
Bill Williams, 141.
Bitter Man, Legend of, 202.
Bowie, James, 181.
Buckman, 33, 41.

C
Camp Verde, 165.
Camulos Rancho, 210.
Cañon de Chelly, 103, 107.
Cañon Diablo, 116.
Carson, Kit, 29, 111.
Casa Grande Ruins, 200.
Chaco Cañon, 83.
Chímayo, 38.
Chin Lee, 103, 106.
Clarkdale, 149, 162.
Cliff Dwellings, 108, 148, 192.
Coachella Valley, 218.
Cochití Pueblo, 54.
Colorado Desert, 217.
Crockett, Davy, 181.
Cueva Pintada, La, 33.

E
El Cabezon, 113.
Española, 24, 41.
Estancia Valley, 56, 67.

F
Flagstaff, 137.
Fort Defiance, 105.
Frijoles Cañon, 33.

G
Gallup, 82, 102.
Ganado, 105.
Garcés, Fr. Francisco, 121, 195, 202.
228
Globe, 191.
Gran Quivira, 58, 60, 62, 63.
Grand Cañon, 150.

H
Hano Pueblo, 118, 128.
Háwikuh, 92.
Holbrook, 135.
Hollywood, 210.
Hosta Butte, 112.
Hopi Mesas, 118.
Hótavila Pueblo, 119.

I
Imperial Valley, 217.
Inscription House Ruin, 148.
Inscription Rock, 83, 93.
Isleta Pueblo, 44.

J
Jemes Pueblo, 50.
Jemes Springs, 51.
Jerome, 149, 162.

K
Kayenta, 148.
Keam’s Cañon, 116.
Kearney, Stephen, 8.
Keet-Seel Ruins, 148.
Kino, Fr. Eusebio, 193, 201.
Kin-tyel Ruins, 136.

L
Laguna Beach, 209.
Laguna Pueblo, 68, 78.
La Jolla, 216.
Lake, The Accursed, 57.
Lamy, Bishop, 5.
Lanier, Sidney, 184, 187.
Letrado, Padre, 90, 99.
Lions of Cochití, Stone, 33.
Llana, Fr. Gerónimo de la, 11, 65.
Los Angeles, 207.
Los Olivos, 220.

M
Manzano, 66.
McCarty’s, 112.
Mesa Encantada, 74.
Mesa Grande, 217.
Mesa Verde National Park, 83.
Mishóngnovi Pueblo, 118.
Mission Churches:
Arizona.
San José de Tumacácori, 197.
San Xavier del Bac, 195.
California.
San Antonio de Pala, 214.
San Diego, 213.
San Fernando, 210, 211.
229
San Gabriel, 211.
San Juan Capistrano, 210.
San Luis Rey, 213.
San Miguel, 14.
Santa Barbara, 219.
Santa Inés, 220.
New Mexico.
Pecos, 50.
San Augustin, Isleta, 47.
San Estéban, Acoma, 75.
San Felipe, 52.
San José, Laguna, 81.
Santa Cruz, 38.
Texas.
Purísima Concepcion, 182.
San Fernando, 178.
San Francisco de la Espada, 190.
San José de Aguayo, 184.
San Juan Capistrano, 190.
Moenkopi Pueblo, 147.
Montezuma’s Castle, 162, 166.
Montezuma’s Well, 162, 170.
Morro, El, 93.
Mount Lowe, 209.
Mount Taylor, 112.
Mount Wilson, 209.
Mountainair, 58.

N
Nambé Pueblo, 24.
National Monuments:
Bandelier, 33.
Casa Grande, 200.
El Morro, 93.
Gran Quivira, 62.
Grand Cañon, 150.
Montezuma Castle, 164.
Navajo, 148.
Petrified Forests of Arizona, 135.
Tonto, 192.
Tumacácori, 198.
Navajo blanket, origin of, 110.
Navajo Indian Reservation, 102.
Navajo Sacred Mountains, 111.

O
Oak Creek Cañon, 141.
Ojai Valley, 220.
Ojo Caliente, 92.
Ojo del Gigante, 67.
Oñate, Juan de, 4, 7, 26, 95, 97.
Oraibi Pueblo, 118.
Otowi, 32.

P
Padre Padilla’s Coffin, 47.
Painted Desert, 117, 134, 141, 145.
Painted Rocks of Abó, 64.
Pajarito Park, 32.
230
Pala, 214.
Palm Springs, 218.
Pasadena, 207.
Pecos National Forest, 41.
Pecos Pueblo, 50.
Pelado Peak, 111.
Penitentes, Order of, 36.
Petrified Forest of Arizona, 130.
Phoenix, 189.
Photographing Indians, 23.
Pimería Alta, 188.
Popé, 26, 28.
Pueblo Bonito, 83.
Pueblo Indians, characteristics, 23.
Puyé, 31.

Q
Quaraí, 11, 64.

R
Rainbow Forest, 135.
Ramah, 93, 100.
Ramirez, Fr. Juan, 72.
Redlands, 208.
Red Rock Country, 149, 163.
Rito de los Frijoles, 33, 54, 63.
Riverside, 208, 218.
Roosevelt Dam, 189, 191.

S
San Antonio, 176.
San Diego, 213.
San Felipe Pueblo, 52.
San Francisco Mountain, 112, 140.
San Francisco Peaks, 125, 138, 139.
San Gabriel Mission, 211.
San Ildefonso Pueblo, 25.
San Juan Pueblo, 25.
San Matéo Mountain, 111.
San Xavier del Bac Mission, 192, 194.
Sandía Pueblo, 49.
Santa Ana Pueblo, 50.
Santa Barbara, 219.
Santa Catalina Island, 218.
Santa Clara Pueblo, 25.
Santa Cruz Valley, N. M., 35.
Santa Cruz Valley, Ariz., 193.
Santa Cruz de la Canada, N. M., 37.
Santa Fe, 1.
Santa Inés Mission, 220.
Santa Mónica, 210.
Santo Domingo Pueblo, 52.
Santo Niño, 37.
Santuario, 34, 39.
Shálako Dance, Zuñi, 88.
Shimópovi Pueblo, 118.
Shípapu, 27.
Shipaúlovi Pueblo, 118.
Shongópovi Pueblo, 118.
Sia Pueblo, 51.
Sichúmovi Pueblo, 118.
231
Simpson, Lieut., J. H., 94.
Stages, Modern Auto-, 165.
Steamboat Rock, 117.
St. Michael’s Mission, 105, 116.

T
Tabirá, 59.
Tajique, 11.
Taos, 27.
Tchrega, 32.
Tesuque Pueblo, 20.
Tewa Pueblo, 118, 128.
Topanga Cañon, 210.
Towa-yálleni, 85, 90.
Truchas Peaks, 42.
Tsankawi, 32.
Tuba, 147.
Tubac, 197, 199.
Tucson, 192.
Tumacácori, 198.
Tyuonyi, 33, 65.

V
Vargas, Diego de, 7, 12, 25, 49, 90, 95, 98.
Verde Valley, 162.

W
Wallace, Lew, 11.
Walnut Cañon, 138.
Walpi Pueblo, 118, 123.
Warner’s Hot Springs, 217.
Whittier, 209, 210.
Wide House Ruins, 136.
Winslow, 116.

Z
Zárate, Fr. Ascencio de, 12.
Zuñi, 82.

Glacier National Park

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Passenger Traffic Manager
ST. PAUL, MINN.

Outwest Outings
“Off the beaten path”
New Mexico and Arizona

Rainbow Bridge
Grand Canyon of Arizona
Petrified Forest
Painted Desert
Ancient Indian Pueblos
Prehistoric Cliff Ruins
New Mexico Rockies
Santa Fe

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Transcriber’s Notes

--Some palpable typographical errors were corrected.

--Copyright and publisher’s information was included from the printed
copy: this eBook is public domain in the country of publication.