Chapter I: Preface

The writer of the following pages was reared among the Pine forests of Maine, and has spent several of the most pleasant years of his life in active participation in many of the scenes here delineated.

The incidents he has related are real, and in no case is the truth sacrificed to fancy or embellishment.

When the author commenced writing, his motive was to indulge somewhat in pleasant reminiscences of the past, and to live over again that portion of his life which, in general, was so pleasantly spent among the wild mountains, forests, lakes, and rivers of Maine. It was during this retrospective exercise with his pen that the idea of writing a book, embracing his own experience and observations during the time in which he participated in the lumberman's life, suggested itself.

Recollecting that, while the life, habits, and adventures of many classes of men had engaged the attention of the reading community, and that, among the multitude of narratives issued from the press, nothing of interest or importance had been put forth exemplifying the life and adventures of a very large class of persons known as lumbermen, he naturally became possessed with a desire to entertain others with some relation of what appeared to him to afford sufficient material for a book of some interest, and chiefly because the matter it might embrace had never been presented in a connected detail.

Suggesting the substance of what has already been said to several intelligent lumbermen, an interest was at once awakened in their feelings upon the subject, accompanied with an urgent request that the plan should be prosecuted, and that a work should be prepared which might make their pursuits, adventures, and hardships more generally known. To many of these friends the author is also indebted for some assistance in furnishing statistical matter.

In incorporating the somewhat lengthy notice of Forest Trees, forming the first part of this volume, the author has ventured to make his own taste and feelings the criterion by which he has been guided in his selections and observations for the reader, and although they may not hold a strict relation to the narrative, he hopes that they may not be deemed inappropriate or uninteresting.

This volume makes no pretensions to literary merit; sooner would it, indeed, claim kindred with the wild and uncultivated scenes of which it is but a simple relation.

In justice to the gentlemen whom he has quoted in arranging the statistical portion of this volume, as well as to himself, the author would state that the material was procured some four years ago. The statement of this fact may account for any discrepancy which may appear from more recent accounts of the lumbering interests, should they be found to vary from the representations here made.

THE AUTHOR.

PART I.
TREES OF AMERICA.

PART II.
THE PINE-TREE, OR FOREST LIFE.

PART III.
RIVER LIFE.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

TREES OF AMERICA.

CHAPTER I.

Trees, how regarded by Lumbermen.--Cedars of Lebanon.--Oldest Tree on Record.--Napoleon's Regard for it.--Dimensions.--Durability of the Cedar, how accounted for.--The Oak.--Religious Veneration in which it was held by the Druids.--The Uses to which their Shade was appropriated.--Curious Valuation of Oak Forests by the Ancient Saxons.--The Number of Species.--Its Value.--Remarkable old Oak in Brighton.--Charter Oak.--Button-wood Tree.--Remarkable Rapidity of its Growth.--Remarkable Size of one measured by Washington.--by Michaux.--Disease in 1842, '43, and '44.--The Oriental Plane-tree --Great Favorite with the Ancients.--Cimon's Effort to gratify the Athenians.--Pliny's Account of its Transportation.--The Privilege of its Shade a Tax.--Used as an Ornament.--Nourished with Wine.--Hortensius and Cicero.--Pliny's curious Account of one of remarkable Size 13

CHAPTER II.

The Elm.--English Elm.--Scotch Elm.--Slippery Elm.--American Elm.--Superiority of latter.--Different Shapes, how accounted for.--Great Elm on Boston Common.--Rapidity of Growth.--The Riding Stick.--Remarkable Dimensions of noted Trees.--Boston Elm again.-- Its Age.--By whom set out.--Washington Elm, why so named.--"Trees of Peace," a Tribute of Respect.--English Elm in England and America.--Uses in France.--In Russia.--Birch Family.--Its Variety and Uses.--The Maple Family.--Number of Species.--Red Maple.--Unrivaled Beauty of American Forests.--Rock Maple.--Amount of Wood cut from one in Blandford.--Curious method of distinguishing it from the River Maple.--Amount and Value of the Sugar in Massachusetts.--Great Product from one Tree.--Sugar Maple in the State of Maine.--Dr. Jackson's Reports, &c. 19

CHAPTER III.

Beech-trees.--Purity, Size, Fruit.--Efforts of Bears after the Nut.--The Uses to which its Leaves are appropriated.--Mr. Lauder's Testimony, &c.--Use of Wood.--Singular Exemption.--The novel Appearance of the Leaves of a Species in Germany.--Chestnut-tree --Remarkable one on Mount AEtna.--Balm of Gilead.--Willow.--Ash.-- Basswood, or Tiel-tree.--The Poplar.--The Hemlock.--Beauties of its Foliage.--Uses.--Hickory.--The Fir-tree.--Spruce-tree.--Its conical Form.--Uses.--American Larch.--Success of the Dukes of Athol in planting it on the Highlands of Scotland 28

PART II.

THE PINE-TREE, OR FOREST LIFE.

CHAPTER I.

The Pines.--White Pines: rank claimed for this Variety.--Predilections. --Comparison instituted.--Pitch and Norway Pines.--White Pine.-- Magnitude.--New York Pines.--Lambert's Pine on Northwest Coast.-- Varieties.--Its Rank.--Great variety of purposes to which it is devoted.--Great Pine near Jackson Lake.--Capital Invested.--Hands employed on the Penobscot 37

CHAPTER II.

The Pine twenty-five Years ago.--Its rapid Disappearance.--Explorations.--Outfit.--Up-river Journeying.--Its Distance.--Mode of Nightly Encampment.--Cooking.--Disturbed Slumbers. --Ludicrous Fright.--Deer.--Encounter with Bears.--Mode of Exploring. --Forest Observatory.--Climbing Trees.--The Emotions excited by the View.--Necessity of Compass.--Nature's Compass.--The Return.-- Annoyances from mischievous Bears.--Stumpage.--Permits.--Outfit and Return.--Crossing Carrying-places.--A Strong Man.--Skill of Boatmen.--Item of personal Experience.--Blind Path.--A Family in the Wilderness.--Things to be considered in locating Camps 44

CHAPTER III.

Method of constructing Camp and Hovel.--Timber.--Covering.--Arrangement of Interior.--The Bed.-- Deacon Seat.--Ingenious Method of making a Seat.--Cooking: superior Method of Baking.--The nightly Camp Fire.--Liabilities from taking Fire.--A Camp consumed.--Men burned to Death.--Enjoyment.--The new Camp: Dedication.--A Song.--A Story.--New Order in Architecture.-- Ox Hovel.--Substitute for Lime.--The Devotedness of the Teamster. --Fat and lean Cattle.--Swamping Roads.--Clumps of Pine.--The points of Interest in a Logging Road.--The Teamster's Path.--Regret.--The peculiar Enjoyment of Men thus engaged 65

CHAPTER IV.

Tokens of Winter.--The Anticipation.--Introduction of Team.-- Difficulties attending it.--Uncomfortable Boating.--The Contrast. --Method of crossing Streams and Rivers.--The Docility of the Ox. --Facilities of Turnpikes.--Stopping-places.--Arrival.--An Adventure.--Ten Oxen in the Ice.--Method of taking them Out.--An uncomfortable Night.--The midnight Excursion.--Oxen running at large in the Wilderness.--Developments of Memory.--Logging.--Division of Labor.--How to manage in the absence of a Cook.--"Uncle Nat."-- Anecdote.--Felling Pines.--Ingenuity of Choppers.--Preparatory Arrangements.--The Bob-sled.--Method of Operation described.-- The Excitement.--Comparison.--Immediate Length of Pine-trees. --Conclusion 83

CHAPTER V.

The Skill and Enterprise of Lumbermen.--Method of taking Logs down Hills and Mountains.--Dry Sluice.--Stern Anchor.--Giant Mountain Steps.--Alpine Lumbering.--Warping a Team down Steeps.--Trial of Skill and Strength.--The rival Load.--Danger and Inconvenience of Hills in Logging Roads.--A distressing Accident.--Solemn Conclusion of a Winter's Work.--Some of the Perils attendant upon Lumbering.-- A fearful Wound.--Narrow Escape.--The buried Cap.--The safest Way of Retreat.--A Sabbath in the Logging Camp.--Sunday Morning Naps.--Domestic Camp Duties.--Letter Writing.--Recreations.--Sable Traps.--Deer and Moose.--Bear Meat.--A rare Joke.--Moose Hunt.-- Bewildered Hunters.--Extraordinary Encounter.--Conclusion of Sabbath in the Woods 100

CHAPTER VI.

Camp Life.--Winter Evenings.--An Evening in Camp.--Characters.-- Card-playing.--A Song.--Collision with wild Beasts.--The unknown Animal in a Dilemma.--"Indian Devil."--The Aborigines' Terror.--A shocking Encounter.--The Discovery and Pursuit.--The Bear as an Antagonist.--Their thieving Propensities.--A thrilling Scene in the Night.--A desperate Encounter with three Bears 129

CHAPTER VII.

Provision Teams.--Liabilities.--A Night in the Woods.--Traveling on Ice.--A Span of Horses lost.--Pat's Adventure.--Drogers' Caravan. --Horses in the Water.--Recovery of a sunken Load.--Returning Volunteers from Aroostook.--Description of a Log Tavern.--Perils on Lakes in Snow-storms.--Camping at Night.--Rude Ferry-boats 142

PART III.

RIVER LIFE.

CHAPTER I.

"Breaking Up."--Grotesque Parading down River.--Rum and Intemperance. --Religious Rites profaned.--River-driving on Temperance Principles. --The first Experiment.--A spiritual Song 149

CHAPTER II.

Log-landing.--Laborious Exposure.--Damming Streams.--Exciting Scenes.--Log-riding.--Fun.--Breaking a Dry-landing.--A sudden Death.--Thrilling Scenes on the "Nesourdnehunk."--Lake-driving.-- Steam Tow-boat.--Remarks on Lake Navigation.--Driving the main River.--Union of Crews.--Substantial Jokes.--Log Marks.--Dangers of River-driving.--Sad Feelings over the Grave of a River-driver. --Singular Substitute for a Coffin.--Burial of a River-driver.-- A Log Jam.--Great Excitement.--A Boat swamped.--A Man drowned.-- Narrow Escape.--Mode of Living on the River.--Wangun.--Antidote for Asthma.--The Wangun swamped.--An awful Struggle.--The miraculous Escape.--Driving among the Islands.--Amusing Exertions at identifying.--Consummation of Driving.--The Claims of lumbering Business for greater Prominence.--The Boom 155

CHAPTER III.

Observations on the St. Croix River.--Boundary Line.--Pine Timber. --Agriculture in the Interior.--Youthful Associations with Grand Lake.--Traditionary Name of Grand Lake.--Lake Che-pet-na-cook.-- Rise of Eastern Branch St. Croix.--Lumbering Prospects.--Hemlock. --Reciprocal Relations of the Lumber Trade between Americans and Provincials.--The Machias Rivers.--Origin of Name.--Character of Soil.--Lumber Resources and Statistics.--West Machias.--Narraguagues River, curious Definition of.--Capacity of Stream.--Statistics.-- Union River.--Observations on its Lumbering Interests.--Mills in Franklin 176

CHAPTER IV.

Penobscot River.--Its various Names.--Character of the Country through which it flows.--Its Length.--The vast Extent of Territory which it drains.--Its Multitude of Lakes.--Mount Ktaadn.--Indian Legend.-- Elevation of the Mountain.--Overwhelming Prospect.--A Sabbath in the Wilderness.--Moose in the Lake.--An uncomfortable Night.--Dr. Jackson's Narrative.--New Lumber Resources.--The interesting Origin of this new Resource.--John Bull outwitted.--Freshets on the Penobscot.--Freshet of 1846, cause of it.--Sudden Rise of Water. --Bangor submerged.--Bowlders of Ice.--Destruction of Property.-- Narrow Escape of Ferry-boat.--Peril of Boys.--Editorial Observations. --Lumber Statistics.--Where the Lumber finds a Market.--Speculations on future Prospects of Lumbering Interests.--Anticipations of the Future.--Bangor 186

CHAPTER V.

Length of Kennebeck.--Moose-head Lake.--Its peculiar Shape.--Its Islands.--Burned Jacket.--Interesting Deposit.--Mount Kineo.--The Prospect from its Summit.--Moose River.--Old Indian.--The Banks of the Kennebeck.--Beauties of the Country, &c.--Lumber on Dead River. --Falls at Waterville.--Skowhegan Falls.--Arnold's Encampment.-- Nau-lau-chu-wak.--Caritunk Falls.--Lumber.--Statistics.--Author's Acknowledgments.--Androscoggin.--Course and other Peculiarities. --A question of Rivalry.--Water Power.--Original Indications.-- Interesting Sketch of Rumford Falls.--Estimated Water Power.-- Lumber Statistics.--Droughts and Freshets.--Umbagog Lake.--The serpentine Megalloway.--Granite Mountains.--Beautiful Foliage.-- Romantic Falls.--Character of Country.--Manner of Life in Log-cutting, &c.--Statistics, &c.--Presumpscot River, great Water-powers of.--Warmth of Water.--Statistical Remarks.--Saco River 227