Chapter V

_JOURNEY TO VIENNA, PRAGUE, TEPLITZ, DRESDEN. CHOPINʼS PERFORMANCE AT TWO CONCERTS IN VIENNA._

Frederic studied with indefatigable zeal from one yearʼs end to another; neither father nor teacher had ever been obliged to incite him to diligence, for even as a mere boy he had always shown a great desire for knowledge. But when the time approached for him to pass his final musical examination before a small critical circle, he worked almost beyond his strength. His anxious father, therefore, resolved to send him on another journey, having made the happy discovery that his Frederic had learned a great deal in Berlin.[23]

This time (July, 1829) our artist was to go to Vienna with some young friends, and he was highly delighted at the prospect, although his father and all his friends urged him to appear publicly as a pianist in that musical city.

With the innate modesty which never left him even after his greatest triumphs, he exclaimed, “Here I have been leniently judged by kind-hearted compatriots; but what am I to expect in a city which can boast of having heard a Haydn, a Mozart, and a Beethoven?”

A few months before this journey Frederic had become acquainted with Hummel, who had stayed some time in Warsaw, and given concerts there. Hummel[24] had acquired, by his very successful tour, the reputation of being the greatest living pianist. Chopin was acquainted with his compositions, and thought very highly of them. He greatly admired his classical style of playing, formed on the best models; yet, exacting as the young artist was towards himself, he could say, without vanity, that, in technical execution, he was not very inferior to the older master.

Fredericʼs chief desire was to become acquainted with the beautiful, musical Vienna, to hear all he could that was new to him, and, if possible, to have intercourse with the masters of his art. He never dreamt that the latter, dazzled by his extraordinary genius, would be the very people who would press him to appear in public.

With a heart full of hope for himself and fervent blessings for his family, Chopin, in company with his friends Celinski, Hube, and Franz Maciejowski (the last named a nephew of the famous investigator of Slavonic law), left his beloved Warsaw.

After visiting Cracow, the old capital of the Piasts and the Jagellons and Ojcow, the so-called Polish Switzerland, the travellers arrived on July 31st at Vienna.

[Sidenote: FIRST LETTER FROM VIENNA.]

The following is a faithful transcription of the letters Chopin wrote from that city:—

_Vienna, August 1st, 1829._

MY DEARLY LOVED PARENTS AND SISTERS,

We arrived here yesterday well and in good spirits, and I may say
without fatigue, and so without discomfort. We took a private
carriage at Cracow, in which we were very comfortable. We were able
to enjoy to perfection the picturesque scenery of Galicia, Upper
Silesia, and Moravia, for the clouds had been amiable enough to lay
the dust with a slight shower.

But before I speak of Vienna I must tell you about our journey to
Ojcow. On Sunday afternoon we hired a four-horse country waggon,
such as they use at Cracow, which cost us four thalers. We dashed
merrily and swiftly along to Ojcow, intending to put up at Herr
Indykʼs house, which all tourists praise, and where Fräulein
Tanska[25] stayed. But, as ill-luck would have it, Herr Indyk lived
a full mile outside the town; our coachman did not know the way,
and drove us into a little brook, as clear and silvery as those
in the fairy tales. Right and left were walls of rock, and we did
not find our way out of the labyrinth till nearly 9 oʼclock, when
two passing peasants good naturedly conducted us to Herr Indykʼs.
Wearied and wet through, we at length reached the wished for house,
and were very kindly received. Although not expecting visitors
at so late an hour, Herr Indyk made no trouble about giving us a
room in the little house, built on purpose for tourists. Sister
Isabella[26] Fräulein Tanska had been in it only a little while
before.

My companions changed their clothes and gathered round the stove,
in which our host had, meanwhile, lighted a fire. Wet above the
knees, I crouched in a corner, considering what I had best do.
Seeing the mistress go into the next room for linen for our beds,
I instinctively followed her, and finding on the table a pile of
woollen Cracow caps (they are double woven), I bought one, tore it
in half, wrapped my [Sidenote: CHARMED WITH CRACOW.] feet in it,
sat before the fire and drank a small glass of red wine. I thus
escaped a severe cold. We laughed and talked a little while over
our adventure, then went to bed and slept soundly.

Frederic, who had a sharp eye and a keen ear for all around him, goes on to describe the neighbourhood of Ojcow, the strangely-formed sand rocks, the black grotto, and the Kingʼs grotto, in which tradition says, that King Lokietek[27] took refuge from his enemies, at the end of the 13th century. Frederic was very enthusiastic over everything he saw, but Cracow and the neighbourhood appear to have had a special charm for him. He gives an account, also, of the Vienna picture gallery, to which he had at first only paid a flying visit. We give, unabridged, the following letters to his family:—

_Vienna, August 8th, 1829._

I am well and in good spirits. Why, I do not know, but the people
here are astonished at me, and I wonder at them for finding
anything to wonder at in me. I am indebted to good Elsnerʼs letter
of recommendation for my exceedingly friendly reception by Herr
Haslinger. He did not know how to make me sufficiently welcome;
he showed me all the musical novelties he had, made his son play
to me, and apologized for not introducing his wife, who had just
gone out. In spite of all his politeness he has not yet printed
my compositions. I did not ask him about them, but he said, when
showing me one of his finest editions, that my Variations were to
appear, next week, in the same style, in _Odeon_. This I certainly
had not expected.[28] He strongly advised me to play in public,
although it is summer, and, therefore, not a favourable time for
concerts.

[Sidenote: PRESSED BY FRIENDS TO PERFORM.]

The artists and lovers of music, who know that I am here, consider
that Vienna would lose a great deal if I left without giving a
concert. I do not know what to make of it all; Schuppanzigh, to
whom I have letters of recommendation, informs me that although his
quartet parties are over, he will try to get a gathering before I
leave. I have only been once to Herr Hussarzewski; he was quite
enthusiastic about my playing, and invited me to dinner. Several
Viennese gentlemen were present, and all, without exception, as if
by previous concert, recommended me to perform in public.

Stein offered to send me one of his instruments, and begged me to
play on it at my concert; Graff, whose pianos I prefer, has made
the same proposal.

Würfel[29] says that if you have composed anything new, and want it
to create a sensation, you must, by all means, play it yourself.
Herr Blahetka, a journalist, whom I met at Haslingerʼs, also
advised me to give a concert. My Variations have been much praised
by those who have heard them.

I have also made the acquaintance of Count Gallenberg, who is
manager of a theatre, where I have heard some second-rate concerts.
Haslinger thinks that the Viennese should hear me play my own
compositions. Everybody assures me that the newspapers will be sure
to give me a flattering notice. Würfel is of opinion that, as my
compositions are to appear now, it would be advisable for me to
give a concert, otherwise I should have to come again, but that
the present would be the best time, as the Viennese are longing
for something new. He calls it unpardonable in a young musician
to neglect such an opportunity; I ought to appear in the twofold
capacity of pianist and composer, and must not think too modestly
of myself. He wishes me to play the Variations first, then the
Rondo Cracovienne, and, in conclusion, to improvise.

I do not know yet how it will all be arranged. Stein is very
kind and amiable, but I should prefer to use one of Graffʼs
instruments. Haslinger, Blahetka and Würfel approve my choice.

Wherever I show myself, I am besieged with requests to play. I have
no lack of acquaintances in the musical world, and Haslinger is
going to introduce me to Charles Czerny. Up till now I have heard
three operas, “La Dame Blanche,” “Cenerentola,” and Meyerbeerʼs
“Crociato.” Orchestra and chorus were excellent. To-day “Joseph in
Egypt” is to be performed. I have twice listened, with admiration,
to Maysederʼs solos at the Academy of Music.

Vienna is handsome, lively, and pleases me exceedingly. They are
trying to persuade me to spend the winter here. Würfel has just
come in to take me to Haslingerʼs.

P.S.—I have made up my mind. Blahetka thinks I shall make a
_furore_, for, as he puts it, I am “an artist of the first rank
and worthy to be placed beside Moscheles, Herz, and Kalkbrenner.”
Würfel is really very kind, and has introduced me to Count
Gallenberg; the bandmaster, Seyfried, and others of his influential
acquaintances, and those who are interested in music. [Sidenote:
ARRANGEMENTS FOR A CONCERT.] He declares I shall not leave Vienna
till I have given a concert. Count Gallenberg is very pleased with
this, as I shall play at his theatre, and—as my principal object
now is to win laurels—without payment. The journalists stare at me
already; the members of the orchestra salute me quite obsequiously
when I walk in, arm in arm, with the director of the Italian opera
(which is now closed.)

Würfel has taken no end of trouble on my behalf, and will be
present at the rehearsal. He was very kind to me at Warsaw, and
I am particularly glad that he has such a pleasant recollection
of Elsner. People here are surprised that Kessler, Ernemann, and
Czapeck should live in Warsaw with me there too, but I tell them
that I give no lessons and only play from love of art. I have
decided on Graffʼs instrument, but I do not want to offend Stein,
so I shall thank him with such an expression of obligation that he
cannot but forgive me.

I hope for Godʼs gracious help. Do not be anxious, my dearest ones.

Your fondly loving

FREDERIC.

* * * * *

[Sidenote: FIRST CONCERT IN VIENNA.]

_Vienna, Wednesday, August 12th, 1829._

You know of my intention, my beloved ones, from my last letter.
Yesterday (Tuesday) at 7 oʼclock in the evening, I appeared before
a Viennese public for the first time, at the Imperial Opera House.
Here, an evening concert in the theatre is called a musical
academy. As I played gratuitously, Count Gallenberg expedited the
arrangements for my appearance.

The following was the programme:

Overture, by Beethoven
My Variations.
Song, by Fräulein Veltheim.[30]
My Cracovienne.
A Ballet, in conclusion.

The orchestra accompanied so badly at the rehearsal that I was
obliged to substitute a “Free Fantasia” for the Rondo.

[Sidenote: ENTHUSIASTIC RECEPTION.]

Directly I appeared I was greeted with cries of “Bravo,” and,
after each variation, the audience shouted this welcome word so
lustily that I could not hear the _tutti_ of the orchestra. I had
such a hearty recall, that I was obliged to come forward twice
to bow my acknowledgments. I must confess that I was not quite
satisfied myself with the free fantasia; but the public must have
been pleased, for I was overwhelmed with applause. One reason for
this may have been that the Germans know how to appreciate free
improvisation. I am now doubly obliged to Würfel, for without his
support and encouragement I should never have accomplished the
daring stroke which has succeeded so well. I shall be able to
relate my experiences and impressions by word of mouth better than
I can now. I was not hissed, so donʼt be uneasy about my artistic
reputation. The newspapers have been very favourable to me;
if some of them should pick holes in me I am prepared for it.
My compositions have received Count Gallenbergʼs undivided
approbation. The theatrical manager, Herr Demar, was very kind and
pleasant; he did his best to encourage me before I appeared, so I
went to my piano without much anxiety.

My friends were scattered about that they might hear the
observations of the critics, and the various opinions of the
public. Celinski can tell you that he heard nothing unfavourable.
Hube reports the most severe criticism, and that, too, from a lady:
“A pity the youth has so little presence.” If this is the only sort
of blame I am to receive I cannot complain. My friends swear they
heard nothing but praise, and that, until the spontaneous outburst
of applause, not one of them had clapped or uttered a bravo. The
manager was so pleased with my Rondo that he came up after the
concert, shook hands with me, and made some very flattering remarks.

I improvised from “La Dame Blanche,” and, that I might have a
Polish theme, chose “Chmiel.”[31] The public, to whom this kind of
national melody is quite unknown, seemed electrified. My spies in
the pit say the people began a regular dance on the benches.

Wertheim, although only arriving yesterday with his wife from
Carlsbad, went to the theatre; he could not imagine how I came to
play there. He was here just now to congratulate me on my good
success. At Carlsbad he saw Hummel who remembered me very kindly.
He writes to him to-day, and will inform him of my performance.

Haslinger is to print my works; I have kept the programme of
the concert. It was most interesting to me to become personally
acquainted with Gyrowetz, Lachner, Kreutzer, and Seyfried; with
Mayseder I have had a very long conversation. There is an almost
unanimous opinion that I play too softly, or rather, too delicately
for the public here. That is to say, they are accustomed to the
drum beating of their own Piano _virtuosi_. I am afraid the
newspapers will say the same thing, especially as the daughter of
one of the editors drums dreadfully; but never mind, if it is to
be so, I would much rather they said I played too gently than too
roughly.

Count Dietrichstein, one of the personages nearest to the Emperor,
came on to the stage yesterday, and had a long talk with me in
French, complimented me and requested me to stay longer in Vienna.

The Orchestra execrated my badly written score, and were not at all
favourable to me up to the moment of my improvisation; then, in
concert with the public, they applauded heartily, which showed
their good opinion of me. I do not know yet what the other artists
think; but why should they especially be against me? They see that
I do not play for pecuniary advantage.

So my first performance, unexpected as it was, has passed off
successfully. Hube thinks that one never succeeds in anything by
ordinary means and according to preconceived plans, but must trust
somewhat to chance. So I trusted to my good fortune and allowed
myself to be persuaded to give the concert. If the newspapers cut
me up so much that I shall not venture before the world again, I
have resolved to become a house painter; that would be as easy as
anything else, and I should, at any rate, still be an artist!

I am curious to hear what Herr Elsner will say to all this. Perhaps
he disapproves of my playing at all? But I was so besieged on all
sides that I had no escape, and I do not seem to have committed a
blunder by my performance.

Nidecki[32] was particularly friendly to me yesterday; he looked
through and corrected the orchestral parts, and was sincerely
pleased at the applause I received. I played on one of Graffʼs
pianos. I am at least four years wiser and more experienced.

You must, indeed, have wondered at my sealing my last letter with a
strange seal. I was absent-minded and took the first and best that
came to hand.[33]

Adieu,

Your fondly loving

FREDERIC.

* * * * *

_Thursday, August 13th, 1829._

If ever I longed to be with you I do so now.

To-day I have become acquainted with Count Lichnowski. He did not
know how to praise me enough, he was so delighted with my playing.
Würfel took me to him. He was Beethovenʼs best friend, to whom the
great master was much indebted.

[Sidenote: PROPOSALS FOR A SECOND CONCERT.]

Everyone says that I have especially pleased the _noblesse_ here.
The Schwarzenbergʼs, Wrbnaʼs, and others were quite enthusiastic
about the delicacy and elegance of my execution; in proof of this
take Count Dietrichsteinʼs coming on the stage to me. Countess
Lichnowski and her daughter, with whom I drank tea to-day, are
quite delighted that I am going to give a second concert on
Tuesday. They invited me to visit them if I passed through Vienna,
on my way to Paris, then they wished to give me a letter to a
certain Countess, sister to Count Lichnowski. A great deal too much
kindness. Czerny, Schuppanzigh, and Gyrowtez have also paid me many
compliments.

To-day a stranger looked at me in the ante-room, and, asking
Celinski if I was Chopin, rushed up to me. He spoke of the
pleasure he should have in becoming acquainted with such an
artist, and said, “You really delighted and enchanted me the day
before yesterday.” It was the same gentleman who had sat beside
Maciejowski and seemed so delighted with my improvisation on
“Chmiel.”

Under no circumstances will I give a third concert; I only give
a second because I am forced to, and I thought that people might
say in Warsaw, “He only gave _one_ concert in Vienna, probably
he was not much liked.” To-day I was at the house of one of the
newspaper critics, who is very well disposed towards me, and is
sure to write a favourable critique. I cannot tell you how kind
and pleasant Würfel is. I shall play gratuitously the second time
also, for the sake of obliging Gallenberg, whose finances are not
very flourishing. (But this is a secret.) I shall play the Rondo,
and then improvise. For the rest, I am in good health, and eat
and drink well. Vienna pleases me much, and I am not without the
society of my countrymen; there is one in the ballet, who took
charge of me at my _débût_, and brought me _eau sucrée_.

Please relate all I write to Elsner, and beg him to pardon me for
not writing to him, but my time is really so filled up that I have
not a moment to spare. I wish to thank M. Skarbek, who was one
of the foremost in persuading me to give a concert; and this is,
indeed, the artistʼs first step in life.

Your ever affectionate

FREDERIC.

* * * * *

_Vienna, August 19th, 1829._

If on the first occasion the public were favourable, my reception,
yesterday, was still more hearty. I was greeted, when I came on
to the stage with three long rounds of applause. The financial
manager—whose name I cannot remember—thanked me for the receipts,
and said that the house could not have been so full on account of
the ballet, for that had been given several times.

The profession praise my Rondo, one and all, from the bandmaster,
Lachner, to the piano-tuner. I know I have pleased the ladies and
the musicians. Gyrowetz, who sat next Celinski, called, “Bravo,”
and made a tremendous noise. The only people not satisfied were
the out-and-out Germans. Yesterday, one of them, who had just
come from the theatre, sat down to eat at the table I was sitting
at. His acquaintances asked him how he liked the performance. “The
ballet is pretty,” was his answer. “But the concert, what of that?”
they asked. Instead of replying he began to talk of something else,
from which I conclude that he recognized me, although my back was
towards him. I felt bound to relieve him from the restraint of my
presence, and went to bed, saying to myself, “The man has not been
born yet who does everything right.”[34]

[Sidenote: POPULARITY IN VIENNA.]

I am glad to be able to say that my popularity increases. As I
depart at 9 oʼclock this evening, I must spend all the forenoon
in farewell visits. Schuppanzigh said, yesterday, that as I was
leaving Vienna so quickly, I must come again soon. I answered that
I should gladly return for the sake of further improving myself,
to which the Baron replied, “that for such a reason I should never
need to come, for I had nothing more to learn.” This opinion was
confirmed by the others. These are, indeed, mere compliments, but
one does not listen to them unwillingly. For the future I shall at
any rate not be regarded as a student.

Blahetka tells me that what he most wonders at is that I could
learn it all in Warsaw. I answered that the greatest donkey must
learn something with Messrs. Zwyny and Elsner.

It is very unfortunate for me that I cannot confirm what I have
told you by sending you the opinions in the press. I know that the
critique is in the hands of the Editor of the paper to which I have
subscribed, and which Bäuerle[35] will send to Warsaw. I expect
they waited for my second performance before giving a notice. This
paper comes out twice a week, Tuesdays and Saturdays, possibly
therefore you may read what is favourable or the contrary about me
before I do.

I have on my side the learned, and those who have poetic
temperaments. We shall have a great deal to talk over. I would have
written of something quite different, but my head is so full of
yesterday that it is quite impossible to collect my thoughts. My
finances are still in the best order.

I have just paid my farewell visit to Schuppanzigh and Czerny.
Czerny was warmer than any of his compositions. I have packed up,
but must go again to Haslingerʼs, and then to the café opposite the
theatre, where I am to meet Gyrowetz, Lachner, Kreutzer, Seyfried,
and others. In two nights and a day we shall be at Prague; the
mail coach goes at nine. It will be an agreeable journey with such
pleasant companions.

Your FREDERIC.

* * * * *

_Prague, Saturday, August 22nd, 1829._

[Sidenote: DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA.]

After an affecting parting, which indeed it was, for Fräulein
Blahetka[36] gave me as a souvenir, a copy of her compositions,
with her autograph, and united with her father in sending warmest
regards to you my good Papa, and to you my dear Mamma, with
congratulations to you both on having such a son; young Stein
wept, and Schuppanzigh, Gyrowetz, in short all the artists were
deeply moved: after this tender farewell, and giving a promise of
returning soon, I got into the diligence. Nidecki and two other
Poles, who were to start for Trieste in half an hour, accompanied
us a little way. One of them, Niegolewski by name, comes from Great
Poland, and is travelling with his tutor, or rather, companion,
a student from the Warsaw University; we had met and conversed
several times in Vienna.

Countess Hussarzweska (she and her husband are both excellent
people) wanted to keep me to dinner when I paid my farewell visit,
but I had not time to stay, having to go to Haslingerʼs. After
many hearty wishes for a speedy meeting, Haslinger promised,
most solemnly, to bring out my variations in five weeks, that he
may have something new to offer the musical world in the autumn.
Although a stranger to you, my dear Father, he wished to be kindly
remembered.

When we were taking our places in the coach, a young German got
in, and, as we were to sit together for two nights and a day,
we scraped an acquaintance. He was a merchant from Danzig, knew
Pruszaka, Sierakowski, of Waplew, Jaurek, Ernemann, Gresser, and
others. He was in Warsaw two years ago, and had now just come from
Paris. His name is Normann. He was a very agreeable gentleman and
a capital travelling companion. We are in the same hotel with him,
and have resolved, when we have seen Prague, to go on together to
Teplitz and Dresden. It would be inexcusable to miss seeing Dresden
when we are so near, especially as our finances will permit of
it, and the journey for four persons is easily managed, and not
expensive.

After a good shaking in the coach, we reached Prague at noon,
yesterday, and went at once to _table-dʼhôte_. Then we called
upon Hanka,[37] to whom Maciejowski had a letter of introduction;
I regretted afterwards that I had not asked Skarbek to furnish me
with one to this famous savant. As we had stayed some time at the
Cathedral and Castle we did not find Hanka at home.

The town, viewed from the castle hill, is large and old-fashioned,
but handsome in the general; formerly it was an important place.[38]

Before leaving Vienna I had six letters given me, five from
Würfel and one from Blahetka, to Pixis, asking him to show me the
Conservatoire here.

[Sidenote: REQUESTED TO PLAY IN PRAGUE.]

They wanted me to play; but I shall only stay three days, and I
have no desire to forfeit the renown I won in Vienna. As Paganini
even was sharply criticised, I shall take care not to perform
in this place. The five letters from Würfel are to the Theatre
director, the bandmaster, and other musical celebrities. I shall
deliver the letters, for he asked me to very earnestly; but I will
not perform. The excellent Würfel has also given me a letter to
Klengel,[39] in Dresden.

I must now conclude, as it is quite time to go to Hankaʼs. I shall
introduce myself as godson of Count Skarbek, and I hope that no
further recommendation will be necessary.

Your FREDERIC.

* * * * *

_Dresden, August 26th, 1829._

I am merry and well. When I was in Vienna, a week ago, I did not
dream I should be in Dresden to-day. Our stay at Prague was very
short, but not without profit. Herr Hanka was very pleased to
receive news from Skarbek. Like all visitors to the Prague Museum
who have received any special attention from Herr Hanka, we had
to write our names in a book kept for the purpose; we found among
others the names of Brodzinski, Mocawski,[40] &c. Each of us wrote
whatever occurred to him in poetry or prose. What could I, a
musician, write that would be worth reading? The thought happily
struck Maciejowski to write four strophes for a Mazurka, and I set
them to music; so I think we have both immortalized ourselves in
the most characteristic manner.

Hanka was delighted with this idea, for the Mazourka contained a
reference to him and to his efforts for the elevation of the Slavs.
He has given me several views of Prague for Skarbek. I cannot
possibly tell you by letter all that Herr Hanka showed us. I must
describe, verbally, the lovely views, the majestic cathedral, with
the figure of St. John, in silver, the beautiful chapel of St.
Wenceslaus, inlaid with amethysts and other precious stones, and
many other things.

[Sidenote: MEETING WITH KLENGEL.]

I am indebted to Blahetkaʼs and Würfelʼs letters for the friendly
reception which I had from Pixis. He gave up his lessons, kept me
at his house, and asked me about all sorts of things. I noticed
Klengelʼs visiting card on his table, and asked if it belonged to
a relative of the famous Klengel, of Dresden. “Klengel himself is
here,” replied Pixis; “he called while I was out.”

I was delighted at the prospect of becoming acquainted with this
artist, to whom I had letters from Würfel. I spoke to Pixis about
it, and he invited me to come in the afternoon, if I wished to
meet Klengel, as he was expected then. We met by accident on the
steps of Pixisʼs house, and effected our first acquaintance there.
I listened to his fugues for more than two hours; I did not play,
as I was not asked. Klengelʼs playing pleased me, but, to speak
candidly, I had expected something still better. (I pray you not
to mention this to anyone.) He gave me an introductory letter
with the following address: “Al ornatissimo Signore Cavaliere
Morlacchi, primo Maestro della Capella Reale;” in which he begs
this gentleman to make me acquainted with the whole musical world
of Dresden, and in particular to present me to Fräulein Pechwell.
This lady is a pupil of Klengelʼs and, in his opinion, the first
pianist in Dresden. He was extremely affable towards me. Before
his departure—he is going to Vienna and Italy—I spent a couple of
hours with him, and our conversation never flagged. This has been
a very agreeable acquaintanceship, and I value it more highly than
Czernyʼs; but not a word of this either, my dear ones.

The three delightful days in Prague were over before we were aware.

I am, as you know, very absent-minded, and on the day we left
rushed suddenly into a strange room without knowing. “Good
morning,” said a cheerful voice. “I beg your pardon, I mistook
the number,” I answered, and ran away as fast as possible. We
left Prague at noon in a private carriage, and arrived at Teplitz
towards evening. The next day I found in the list at the Baths
Ludwig Lempickiʼs name; I immediately went to call on him. He
was very glad to see me, and told me there were several Poles
here; among others he mentioned old Pruszack, Joseph Köhler, and
Kretkowski, from Kamiona. Lempicki told me that they generally
all dined together in the “German hall,” but that to-day he was
invited to Prince Claryʼs Castle. This Prince belongs to one of the
most distinguished of the Austrian princely families. He is very
wealthy, and owns the town of Teplitz. Princess Clary, née Countess
Chotek[41] is sister of the present Oberstburggraf of Bohemia.
Lempicki said he was quite at home in Prince Claryʼs house, and
would introduce me there in the evening when the Princess always
gave receptions; he would mention my name to them at dinner.
Having no engagement for the evening, I accepted the proposal with
pleasure.

[Sidenote: VISIT TO PRINCE CLARY.]

We have seen all that is worth seeing here, and have also been
to Dux, the residence of the Count Waldsteins. We were shown the
halberd with which Albrecht Waldstein (or Wallenstein) was stabbed,
a piece of his scull, and other relics. In the evening, instead
of going to the theatre, I dressed and went with Lempicki to the
Castle. I put on my white gloves which had already done duty at
the Vienna concert. The company was not numerous, but very select:
an Austrian prince; an Austrian general, whose name I forget; an
English naval captain; two or three elegant dandies (Austrian
princes or counts, I believe); and the Saxon General von Leiser,
who bore the uncommon decoration of a scar on his face.

I talked most to Prince Clary. After tea Countess Chotek, mother
of the Princess, asked me to play. The instrument was a good one,
by Graff. I took my seat at the piano, and asked the company to
give me a theme for improvisation. The ladies, who had established
themselves at a table, immediately whispered to each other “un
thème, un thème.” Three pretty young princesses, after some
consultation, referred to a Herr Fritsche,[42] tutor to Prince
Claryʼs only son, and he suggested the chief theme in Rossiniʼs
“Moses,” which was unanimously approved of. I improvised, I suppose
with some success, for General von Leiser had a long talk with me
afterwards. When he heard I was going to Dresden, he at once wrote
the following to Baron von Friesen.

“Monsieur Frédéric Chopin est recommandé de la part du
General Leiser à Monsieur le Baron de Friesen, Maître
de Cérémonie de S. M. le roi de Saxe, pour lui être
utile pendant son séjour à Dresde, et de lui procurer la
connaissance de plusieurs des premiers artistes.”

Below was written in German: “Herr Chopin is one of the best
pianists I have heard.” I copied this literally for you, my
dearests, from the generalʼs pencil letter.

I had to play four times. The Prince and Princess asked me to
prolong my stay at Teplitz, and dine with them the next day.
Lempicki offered to accompany me to Warsaw, if I remained a day
or two here, but I could not hear of being separated from my
companions, so, with many thanks, I declined both proposals.

[Sidenote: ARRIVAL IN DRESDEN.]

We left yesterday morning, at 5 oʼclock, in a carriage, for
which we paid two Thalers, and arrived at Dresden at four in
the afternoon, when we met Lewinski and Lebecki. Everything has
happened very fortunately for me throughout the journey. The first
part of “Faust” is to be given to-day, and Klengel tells me that
the Italian opera will be on Saturday.

This letter was begun last night. Now I must dress for calling
on Baron von Friesen and Morlacchi, so have no time to spare. We
intend leaving in a week, but, weather permitting, not without
seeing the Saxon Switzerland. We hope to spend a few days in
Breslau, and go direct home from there. I am longing so much to
see you again, my dear parents, that I do not at all care to go to
Wiesiolowskiʼs first. Oh, how many stories and adventures I shall
have to relate, and each more interesting than the last.

P.S.—Baron von Friesen, maître dé cérémonie, received me very
kindly. He asked me where I was staying, and regretted that the
Chamberlain, who was also director of the royal band, was not at
Dresden just now, but he would find out who was his deputy, and
do all he could to show me something worth seeing during my short
sojourn. Whereupon many bows and stammered thanks on my part. My
next letter, from Breslau, will tell you the rest.[43] I have seen
the world-renowned gallery, the fruit show, the gardens, have paid
some visits, and am now going to the theatre. Enough, I hope, for
one day.

SECOND POSTSCRIPT.—It is night. Just returned from the theatre,
where I saw “Faust.”[44] The rush was so great that we had to be
in the _queue_, outside the office, before five oʼclock, to get
a ticket at all. The performance began at six, and lasted till
eleven oʼclock. Devrient,[45] whom I saw in Berlin, acted _Faust_.
A fearful but magnificent conception. Portions of Spohrʼs Opera,
“Faust,” were performed as Entrʼactes. Goetheʼs eightieth birthday
was celebrated to-day. Now I am off to bed, I expect Morlacchi
early to-morrow, and shall go with him to Fräulein Pechwellʼs, that
is, he will come with me.

Good night,

Your FREDERIC.