Chapter I: Preface

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THERE are two Englishmen at present living in Shanghai who have travelled overland from Europe to China. I was told, when there, that these gentlemen are continually receiving letters from England asking for information relative to the journey from Petersburg to Pekin and _vice versâ_, and in the Gobi Desert and Siberia.

It is mainly owing to this circumstance that I publish these pages, for I fear the general reader will find little to interest him in this record of our monotonous pilgrimage through Europe and Asia. I feel that an apology is needed for its publication, and need hardly say that it does not aspire to the title of a book of travel, being merely a record of my impressions in the less civilized parts of China, and in that weird and melancholy country, more perhaps from associations than aspect, Siberia.

The voyage is, though somewhat original, sadly devoid of interest. Urga and Irkoutsk are, no doubt, well worth seeing, but a passing glimpse of these unique cities far from repays the discomfort, not to say hardship, which must be undergone on the caravan route.

I can only trust this book may deter others from following my example, and shall then have some satisfaction in knowing that its pages have not been written in vain.

M. Victor Meignan concludes his amusing work “De Paris à Pekin par terre,” thus:——

“N’allez pas là! C’est la morale de ce livre!”

Let the reader benefit by our experience.

H. DE W.

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CONTENTS.

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CHAPTER I.
PAGE
GRAVESEND TO PEKIN 1

CHAPTER II.
PEKIN 60

CHAPTER III.
PEKIN TO KALGAN 115

CHAPTER IV.
KALGAN, OR CHANG-CHIA-KOW 147

CHAPTER V.
THE DESERT OF GOBI 187

CHAPTER VI.
OURGA TO KIAKHTA 268

CHAPTER VII.
KIAKHTA TO IRKOUTSK 322

CHAPTER VIII.
IRKOUTSK 385

CHAPTER IX.
IRKOUTSK (continued) 422

CHAPTER X.
IRKOUTSK TO TOMSK 471

CHAPTER XI.
TOMSK 573