Chapter I: Preface

Many ladies, some of whom even contemplate a visit to Spain, having condescended to signify to the publisher their regrets, that the Handbook was printed in a form, which rendered its perusal irksome, and also to express a wish that the type had been larger, the Author, to whom this distinguished compliment was communicated, has hastened to submit to their indulgence a few extracts and selections, which may throw some light on the character of a country and people, always of the highest interest, and particularly so at this moment, when their independence is once more threatened by a crafty and aggressive neighbour.

In preparing these compilations for the press much new matter has been added, to supply the place of portions omitted; for, in order to lighten the narrative, the Author has removed much lumber of learning, and has not scrupled occasionally to throw Strabo, and even Saint Isidore himself, overboard. Progress is the order of the day in Spain, and its advance is the more rapid, as she was so much in arrear of other nations. Transition is the present condition of the country, where yesterday is effaced by to-morrow. There the relentless march of European intellect is crushing many a native wild flower, which, having no value save colour and sweetness, must be rooted up before cotton-mills are constructed and bread stuffs substituted; many a trait of nationality in manners and costume is already effaced; monks are gone, and mantillas are going, alas! going.

In the changes that have recently taken place, many descriptions of ways and things now presented to the public will soon become almost matters of history and antiquarian interest. The passages here reprinted will be omitted in the forthcoming new edition of the Handbook, to which these pages may form a companion; but their chief object has been to offer a few hours’ amusement, and may be of instruction, to those who remain at home; and should the humble attempt meet with the approbation of fair readers, the author will bear, with more than Spanish resignation, whatever animadversions bearded critics may be pleased to inflict on this or on the other side of the water.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

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A General View of Spain--Isolation--King of the Spains--Castilian Precedence--Localism--Want of Union--Admiration of Spain--M. Thiers in Spain.....1

CHAPTER II.

The Geography of Spain--Zones--Mountains--The Pyrenees--The Gabacho, and French Politics.....7

CHAPTER III.

The Rivers of Spain--Bridges--Navigation--The Ebro and Tagus.....23

CHAPTER IV.

Divisions into Provinces--Ancient Demarcations--Modern Departments--Population--Revenue--Spanish Stocks.....30

CHAPTER V.

Travelling in Spain--Steamers--Roads, Roman, Monastic, and Royal--Modern Railways--English Speculations.....40

CHAPTER VI.

Post Office in Spain--Travelling with Post Horses--Riding post--Mails and Diligences, Galeras, Coches de Colleras, Drivers and Manner of Driving, and Oaths.....53

CHAPTER VII.

Spanish Horses--Mules--Asses--Muleteers--Maragatos.....65

CHAPTER VIII.

Riding Tour in Spain--Pleasures of it--Pedestrian Tour--Choice of Companions--Rules for a Riding Tour--Season of Year--Day’s Journey--Management of Horse; his Feet; Shoes; General Hints.....80

CHAPTER IX.

The Rider’s Costume--Alforjas: Their contents--The Bota, and How to use it--Pig Skins and Borracha--Spanish Money--Onzas and smaller Coins.....94

CHAPTER X.

Spanish Servants: their Character--Travelling Groom, Cook, and Valet.....105

CHAPTER XI.

A Spanish Cook--Philosophy of Spanish Cuisine--Sauce--Difficulty of Commissariat--The Provend--Spanish Hares and Rabbits--The Olla--Garbanzos--Spanish Pigs--Bacon and Hams--Omelette--Salad and Gazpacho.....119

CHAPTER XII.

Drinks of Spain--Water--Irrigation--Fountains--Spanish Thirstiness--The Alcarraza--Water Carriers--Ablutions--Spanish Chocolate--Agraz--Beer Lemonade.....136

CHAPTER XIII.

Spanish Wines--Spanish Indifference--Wine-making--Vins du Pays--Local Wines--Benicarló--Valdepeñas.....145

CHAPTER XIV.

Sherry Wines--The Sherry District--Origin of the Name--Varieties of Soil--Of Grapes--Pajarete--Rojas Clemente--Cultivation of Vines--Best Vineyards--The Vintage--Amontillado--The Capataz--The Bodega--Sherry Wine--Arrope and Madre Vino--A Lecture on Sherry in the Cellar--at the Table--Price of Fine Sherry--Falsification of Sherry--Manzanilla--The Alpistera.....150

CHAPTER XV.

Spanish Inns: Why so Indifferent--The Fonda--Modern Improvements--The Posada--Spanish Innkeepers--The Venta: Arrival in it--Arrangement--Garlic--Dinner--Evening--Night--Bill--Identity with the Inns of the Ancients.....165

CHAPTER XVI.

Spanish Robbers--A Robber Adventure--Guardias Civiles--Exaggerated Accounts--Cross of the Murdered--Idle Robber Tales--French Bandittiphobia--Robber History--Guerrilleros--Smugglers--Jose Maria--Robbers of the First Class--The Ratero--Miguelites--Escorts and Escopeteros--Passes, Protections, and Talismans--Execution of a Robber.....186

CHAPTER XVII.

The Spanish Doctor: His Social Position--Medical Abuses--Hospitals--Medical Education--Lunatic Asylums--Foundling Hospital of Seville--Medical Pretensions--Dissection--Family Physician--Consultations--Medical Costume--Prescriptions--Druggists--Snake Broth--Salve for Knife-cuts.....213

CHAPTER XVIII.

Spanish Spiritual Remedies for the Body--Miraculous Relics--Sanative Oils--Philosophy of Relic Remedies--Midwifery and the Cinta of Tortosa--Bull of Crusade.....236

CHAPTER XIX.

The Spanish Figaro--Mustachios--Whiskers--Beards--Bleeding--Heraldic Blood--Blue, Red, and Black Blood--Figaro’s Shop--The Baratero--Shaving and Toothdrawing.....255

CHAPTER XX.

What to observe in Spain--How to observe--Spanish Incuriousness and Suspicions--French Spies and Plunderers--Sketching in Spain--Difficulties; How Surmounted--Efficacy of Passports and Bribes--Uncertainty and Want of Information in the Natives.....265

CHAPTER XXI.

Origin of Bull-fight or Festival, and its Religious Character--Fiestas Reales--Royal Feasts--Charles I. at one--Discontinuance of the Old System--Sham Bull-fights--Plaza de Toros--Slang Language--Spanish Bulls--Breeds--The Going to a Bull-fight.....286

CHAPTER XXII.

The Bull-fight--Opening of Spectacle--First Act, and Appearance of the Bull--The Picador--Bull Bastinado--The Horses, and their Cruel Treatment--Fire and Dogs--The Second Act--The Chulos and their Darts--The Third Act--The Matador--Death of the Bull--The Conclusion, and Philosophy of the Amusement--Its Effect on Ladies.....300

CHAPTER XXIII.

Spanish Theatre; Old and Modern Drama; Arrangement of Play-houses--The Henroost--The Fandango; National Dances--A Gipsy Ball--Italian Opera--National Songs and Guitars.....318

CHAPTER XXIV.

Manufacture of Cigars--Tobacco--Smuggling _viâ_ Gibraltar--Cigars of Ferdinand VII.--Making a Cigarrito--Zumalacarreguy and the Schoolmaster--Time and Money wasted in Smoking--Postscript on Spanish Stock.....335

GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN.