Chapter I: Part 1

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.

GROCERS’ MANUAL:

CONTAINING

RECIPES, FORMULAS AND INSTRUCTIONS

FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF

BAKING POWDERS, FLAVORING EXTRACTS,
ESSENCES, CONDIMENTS, ETC.,

IN THEIR PURITY, ALSO THEIR IMITATIONS AND
ADULTERATIONS.

PUBLISHED BY THE
GROCERS’ MANUAL PUBLISHING CO.,
CHICAGO, ILL.

COPYRIGHTED
BY
THE GROCERS’ MANUAL PUBLISHING CO.
CHICAGO.
1888.

PREFACE.

The object in writing the Grocers’ Manual has been to give a collection of good recipes, formulas and processes of practical application in the manufacture of Grocers’ Sundries. The directions and descriptions have been given in simple language. The technical and scientific are not used to any extent. Care has been taken that only the best and latest recipes and best discoveries have been used. In using the recipes be careful to follow the directions and proportions exactly. In experimenting use small quantities. If the first trial is not a success, try again. It will prove that some mistake has been made, as these formulas have all been practically proven correct.

CONTENTS.

PAGE.

Alcohol 19

Alcohol Substitute 22

Almond Candy 53

Ammonia Aqua 49

Ammonia, Carbonate 13

Artificial Flavors 25

Arnica Jelly 82

Baking Powder 9

” ” Phosphate 12

” ” Tartaric Acid 13

” ” Alum 12

” ” One Spoon 13

” ” Ammonia 13

” ” Cream Tartar 13

” ” Combination Acid 13

” ” To Mix 14

” ” Process of Manufacturing 12

” ” to Pack 14

” ” Mixers 12

” ” Sifters 12

Bath Brick 61

Bay Rum, artificial 83

Bird Seed 40, 41

Bird Gravel 41

Blacking, Shoe 62

Blueing, Laundry 35

Blueing to Label 44

Bottles, second-hand 39

Butter to Purify 59, 60

Butter Color 60, 61

Caramels 52

Carbonate Magnesia 19

Castor Oil 39

Canning Fruit, etc. 70

Candy 50

Candy, Nuts and Fruits 52

Catsup 57

Cement for Crockery, etc. 75

Cement, Universal 75

Chewing Gum 56

Chocolate 90

Chocolate, Spanish 91

Chocolate Caramels 52

Cider, to Preserve 80

Cough Syrup 81

Corn Starch 15

Cocoanut, desiccated 46

Cocoanut Candy 53

Corn Remedy 84

Cream Tartar, to cheapen 80

Cream Candy 51

Currant Jelly 85

Curry Powder 57

Dextrine 16

Directions for Labeling 45

Extracts Flavoring 18
” Almond 22
” Lemon 21
” ” cheap 21
” Orange 22
” Bitter Almond 22
” Rose 22
” Nutmeg 23
” Cinnamon 23
” Sarsaparilla 24
” Wintergreen 25
” Vanilla Triple 32
” Vanillin ” 33
” Vanilla Standard 33
” Artificial Apple 29
” ” Apricot 27
” ” Cherry 27, 31
” ” Currant 30
” ” Grape 29
” ” Melon 28
” ” Peach 27, 31
” ” Pear 29, 31
” ” Pine Apple 28, 31
” ” Plum 28
” ” Raspberry 26, 30
” ” Strawberry 27, 31
” to pack 34

Felt Filter 19

Filtering 19

Fly Paper, sticky 69
” ” Poison 69

Flour, Self-raising 14

Florida Water 82

Fruit Canning, etc. 70

Furniture Polish 66

Glycerine 39

Grocers’ Drugs 81

Hair Oil 35

Hair Oil, Aromatic Scent 35

Hand Grenade 83

Hektograph 67

Honey, Artificial 55

Honey Flavor 32

Horse Radish 49

Ink, Black 36
” Common Black 37
” Blue 37
” Copying 38
” Green 39
” Hektograph 68
” Purple 38
” Red 39
” Writing Fluid 38
” to Label 44

Insect Poison 68

Jamaica Ginger 24

Jamaica Ginger Ess 25

Jellies, etc. 85

Jelly, Quince 85
” to color 86
” to cheapen 86
” Hints for Manufacturing 87
” Arnica 82

Kitchen Soap 75

Labeling, directions for 45

Lemon Extract, Triple 21
” ” Standard 21

Marmalade, Fruit 85

Maple Candy 52

Metal Polishing Paste 66

Molasses Candy 53

Molasses Taffy 54

Mustard, Common 75
” English 76
” French 76
” Frankfort 76

Olive Oil 46

Oil, Lemon 18

Oxalic Acid 41

Paste 45

Packing Seeds, etc. 42

Persian Insect Powder 68

Peppermint Essence 24

Piccalilli 77

Powdered Borax 56

Potato Starch 16

Quince Jelly 85

Rat Poison 85

Raspberry Extract 26, 30

Red Ink 39

Rancid Butter to purify 60

Rose Extract 22

Salad Dressing 89

Sewing Machine Oil 39

Shoe Polish 62
” Blacking 62
” Dressing, Ladies’ 63

Sifters 12

Soda Water Syrup 80

Sozodont 84

Soap Stone 17

Starch 15, 16
” Prepared 16
” Laundry 17
” Lustrine 17
” Liquid Gloss 18
” Packing 17

Stove Polish, Cake 64
” ” Paste 65
” ” Liquid 65

Sugar Candy 52
” Taffy 54

Spices 79

Spice Mills, to clean 80

Spiced Vinegar 77

Talc 17

Tin and Metal Polish 61

Vanilla 32, 33

Vinegar 77, 78

Waxed Paper 66

Waterproof Blacking 64

Whiting 91

Worcestershire Sauce 58
” ” imitation 59

Yeast 87
” Dry Hop 1 87
” ” ” 2 88

GROCERS’ MANUAL.

BAKING POWDER.

There are many ways to make good baking powder, and none are bad, notwithstanding what is said about the unhealthfulness of certain kinds by several large manufacturers, who find fault with all but those made by themselves. The writer of this, after years of experience in the manufacture, has yet to find an unhealthful baking powder. Even should the powder be compounded wrongly, none of all the materials used in its manufacture, are injurious at all, after being baked. Heat and water chemically change the different ingredients excepting the filler, which, being either corn starch, potato, wheat or rice flour, are certainly not injurious. All baking powders generate the same kind of gas, namely—carbonic acid gas. This is the leavening power in the dough, being distributed through the flour in minute particles as baking powder in the dry state. After wetting the mass the generation of the gas begins, causing the dough to swell, in which state it must be baked before the gas escapes. Cream of tartar and soda baking powder generate carbonic acid gas when dampened and leaves a residue, not cream of tartar or soda, for these have been changed by the combustion caused by the moisture, but the residue is Rochelle salts. Alum and soda baking powder generates the same gas, and where the quality is of the best, a little more of it. The residue in this case is neither alum nor soda, but a small amount of Glauber’s salts. The quantity of these salts is so small that to get enough to make one dose for medicine, a man would have to consume at one meal over a peck of biscuits. The baking powder that is to be the future powder of the world [and is to a great extent of the present] is a combination of alum, soda and acid phosphate. Alum and soda, though being the strongest, is apt when used in stiff dough, on account of insufficient moisture being used, or too much powder to the amount of flour, to cause a bitter taste. This is owing to incomplete combustion. The phosphate being the purest of all materials [leaving the least residue] loses its strength when brought into great contact with soda, which it must be when used by itself, as it requires two pounds to one pound of soda, consequently leaving very little room for the filler to keep it cool.

This formula is recommended above all others. It is cheap, strong from the alum, steady also from the alum, as it only releases its gas entirely when exposed to the heat of the oven. Quick rising, from the prompt elimination of the gas by the phosphates, which has also a neutralizing effect, when too much powder is used, or too little moisture employed in mixing.

The _Filler_. (If starch) should be the chemical corn starch, powdered. It can be had of any starch manufacturer, in one or more barrel lots. It is the same that is sold in one pound packages, and known as corn starch. It should be sifted into the mixer first.

The _Sifter_. All the material should be sifted through a No. 24 to 50 mesh sieve to reduce all the ingredients to the same fineness.

The _Mixer_. For small quantities a drum or barrel churn can be used, if a regular mixer is not to be had.

The _Soda_ should not be left standing after sifting, as it cakes very quickly. Sift into the starch, and if not ready to place in the other ingredients, mix it with the starch, when it can be left standing indefinitely.

PHOSPHATE COMBINATION BAKING POWDER.

Filler 60 lbs.
Soda Bicarbonate 30 ”
Cream Tartar substitute [alum] 20 ”
Phosphate 20 ”

_Process._ Sift your filler into the mixer, then sift in the soda, C. T. S. and phosphate in succession. If a churn is used, fasten the head securely, and revolve it slowly for fifteen minutes, when the powder will be finished.

_Sifters and Mixers._ There have been patented several combined machines for this purpose. The best, and indeed a good machine is the Hunter Sifter and Mixer. Never fill the mixer over half full. If more is put in, the mixing is liable to be defective.

ALUM BAKING POWDER.

Cream Tartar substitute 30 Pounds.
Soda Bicarbonate 30 ”
Filler 60 ”

Proceed as above.

To adulterate or cheapen cost on this, Terra Alba is used by mixing it in place of starch or flour filler, but not over 12 per cent. of the entire amount; it is an adulteration of the filler.

ONE SPOON BAKING POWDER.

Same as above except in filler, only twenty-five pounds being used.

TARTARIC ACID BAKING POWDER.

Filler 75 Pounds.
Bicarbonate Soda 75 ”
Tartaric Acid 50 ”

Proceed as on page 12.

AMMONIA BAKING POWDER.

Filler 20 Pounds.
Bicarbonate Soda 15 ”
Tartaric Acid 5 ”
Sesquicarbonate of Ammonia 3¾ ”

Proceed as on page 12.

PURE CREAM TARTAR BAKING POWDER.

Filler 15 Pounds.
Bicarbonate Soda 10 ”
Cream Tartar Pure 20 ”

Proceed as on page 12.

COMBINATION ACID BAKING POWDER.

Filler 80 Pounds.
Cream Tartar 40 ”
Tartaric Acid 40 ”
Bicarbonate Soda 80 ”

Proceed as on page 12.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MIXING BAKING POWDER, STARCH, SELF-RAISING FLOUR, ETC.

A good mixer for new beginners and those doing a small business, is a five to twenty gallon tumbling drum churn, with a large mouth and good fitting lid. Never fill it over half full; when the proportions for the mixer are too large reduce them to fit. Turn mixer over slowly; one hundred and fifty times will mix sufficiently.

HOW TO PACK BAKING POWDER.

Baking Powder is packed in tin usually. In fact, any powder but the clear alum powder will not keep very long without it is packed in tin cans and carefully labeled to keep the air and dampness from entering at the seams and joints. Always pack full weight. If bulk baking powder is wanted where it will not be sold rapidly, always give the Alum Baking Powder, or the One Spoon Alum Powder.

SELF-RAISING WHEAT FLOUR.

Wheat Flour 196 Pounds.
Phosphate 5¾ ”
Bicarbonate Soda 2½ ”
Fine salt 2 ”

Proceed as on page 12, but must be mixed longer.

_Directions._—Mix with cold water or milk, and bake on a hot griddle at once.

SELF-RAISING BUCKWHEAT FLOUR.

Wheat Middlings or Shorts 60 Pounds.
Phosphate 7½ ”
Bicarbonate of Soda 3⅓ ”
Salt 2 ”
Buckwheat flour 140 ”

Proceed as on page 12. Buckwheat being a heavier flour requires more of the ærating material than wheat flour. Directions for use same as for Self-Raising Wheat Flour.

STARCH.

CORN STARCH.—There are two kinds of corn starch used in the manufacture of sundries, chemicaled and unchemicaled. The former is called sometimes sweet starch, the latter, sour starch. The first only should be used for corn starch in packages, for lump starch in packages and bulk, and for Baking Powder filler. It is not quite as white, having generally a slight yellowish cast, and is not subject to climatic changes to the extent that the other is; the unchemicaled starch is better adapted for general laundry purposes, and is used almost exclusively by the large steam laundries. It is whiter and more nearly resembles wheat starch in its results, but liable at all times without being mixed with some other substance, to get a sour and musty smell with age.

WHEAT STARCH is the whitest, and contains the most stiffening of any of the starches. Is used principally in preparing new linen products for the market.

POTATO STARCH, is as its name indicates, made from potatoes. Can be used for all purposes that other starches are used for, but is used principally for food.

DEXTRINE.—It is manufactured from Potato Starch, and is a substitute for gum arabic which it resembles in its results. The yellow Dextrine is used for making mucilage and gumming envelopes. The white Dextrine only must be used in starch.

PREPARED LAUNDRY STARCH.—A recent invention.

Wheat Starch 50 Pounds.
Unchemicaled Corn Starch 35 ”
Powdered Borax 15 ”

Sift and mix as on page 12.

LAUNDRY STARCH, POWDERED.—A cheaper article, and much used.

Unchemicaled Corn Starch 70 Pounds.
Powdered Borax 7 ”
White Dextrine 8 ”
Wheat Starch 5 ”
Powdered Soapstone (Talc) 10 ”

The Talc, being of a soapy or slippery nature, assists in ironing. The first two articles alone make a good starch; it is much superior to the old starching process.

STARCH PACKING.—Corn Starch for food is packed, one pound in package, 40 to a case. Prepared Laundry is packed 12 ozs. to a package, and from 40 to 64 in a case; as it goes farther in starching than the old way, none can find fault with the short pound, besides it can be sold at a round price adjusting profits satisfactorily to all concerned.

STARCH LUSTRINE.

Spermaceti 1¾ ozs.
Gum Arabic 1¾ ”
Borax 1¾ ”
Glycerine 4½ ”
Rain water 1½ pts.

Flavor to suit.

This mixture can be used either with or without starch. If with starch, add 1 spoonful of this to 1⅛ ozs. of boiling starch.

LIQUID STARCH GLOSS.

Borax solution 2 parts
Pulverized Bleached Shellac 1 part

Water sufficient; mix and digest; is also a good varnish for maps, labels, etc.

FLAVORING EXTRACTS.

Their Manufacture, Etc.

WATER BATH (a glue pot is a water bath).—Take a kettle or pail large enough to hold another pail, kettle or jug inside of it, leaving an inch or more space all around it. Place in the bottom about one inch of coarse gravel. Put in water sufficient and place it over a slow fire, then set the vessel and contents to be digested into this. If a bottle or jug, remove the cork. Care should be taken not to let extracts boil. Alcohol in the mass will boil at a lower temperature than if there was no alcohol in it.

OIL LEMON and other essential oils should always be fresh. Old Oil Lemon in extracts produces a turpentine flavor and taste.

ALCOHOL.—Should be the best to be had. Deodorized alcohol is preferable in all cases. It can be bought at all distilleries and rectifying houses, and also at all wholesale drug houses.

MAGNESIA CARBONATE is a very necessary help in reducing the oils. Mix the oil and a small amount of alcohol together, then crush magnesia into it in a mortar until a thin, paste-like substance is the result. It cuts the oil into more minute particles than if alcohol alone is used.

FILTERING.

Use a funnel for ordinary work and druggists’ filtering paper; fold the paper together so it will fit to the shape of the funnel, set the funnel into a clean jar or bottle, pour in the material. If lemon is cloudy let stand a day or two when it will clear of its own accord. If not clear enough in one filtering filter again.

FELT BAG FILTER is used for cheap extracts where quantity and not quality is desired. Should have one for each flavor. They are used in a funnel in place of the paper.

ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS should not be filtered. If it can be avoided, filter the alcohol and water beforehand if needed, the ethers are so volatile that the strength will evaporate if exposed to the air.

TRIPLE EXTRACT LEMON.

Fresh Oil Lemon 16 ozs.
Pure Alcohol 13½ pts.
Distilled water or Rain water 2½ ”

Mix one pint of alcohol and the oil together, then triturate in a mortar with magnesia enough to thoroughly cut the whole and incorporate it into a thin paste. Pour on it a quart of alcohol, place it in a bottle, cork tight, and let digest for forty-eight hours. Mix the balance of the alcohol and the water together. Have the water warm, shake them well and add it to the original mass, color with Yellow Aniline, filter through paper. If time is brief instead of letting stand forty-eight hours, it can be given the hot water bath for three or four hours; not quite to the boiling point will do as well. The magnesia can be saved to use again.

MERCANTILE TRIPLE EXTRACT LEMON.

Fresh Oil Lemon 8 ozs.
Alcohol 3 qts.
Soft Water (warmed) 1 qt.

Mix the Oil Lemon and 1 quart of alcohol together, let stand two days, or digest in water bath three or four hours. Mix the warm water and balance of the alcohol together, then add to the original. Color with Yellow Aniline. Filter. When not in water bath all extracts should be kept corked tight.

STANDARD LEMON EXTRACT.

Fresh Oil Lemon 2 lbs.
Warm Soft Water 4 gals.
Alcohol 10 ”

Mix the Lemon Oil and 3 gallons of alcohol well together by shaking, let stand two days, or four hours in hot bath. Mix the warm water and six gallons of alcohol together, add to the original, shake well, and add the remaining one gallon alcohol. Color with Aniline Yellow to suit; filter in felt bag while warm, if possible.

WHOLESALE GROCERY STANDARD LEMON.

Oil Lemon 20 ozs.
Alcohol 14 gals.
Soft Water 6 ”

Triturate in a mortar the Oil Lemon, a little alcohol and magnesia sufficient. Digest in hot bath, then add the balance of alcohol and water. Proceed as in above.

ALCOHOL SUBSTITUTE.

Wood alcohol is used by some manufacturers of cheap extracts in place of pure alcohol. We would advise that it be not used, as it is dangerous.

TRIPLE ORANGE EXTRACT.

Bitter Oil Orange 4 ozs.
Alcohol 5½ pts.
Warm Soft Water 2½ ”

Proceed as in Lemon Extract. Color with Yellow Aniline.

EXTRACT BITTER ALMOND.

Oil Bitter Almonds 12 ozs.
Alcohol 5½ pts.
Water 2½ ”

Be careful in handling this; oil bitter almonds is poisonous in its pure state. Proceed as in Lemon Extract. No color.

EXTRACT ROSE.

Oil Rose 1 oz.
Alcohol 5½ pts.
Water 2½ ”

Color with Carmine. Proceed as in Lemon Extract.

EXTRACT OF NUTMEG.

Oil Nutmeg 2 drs.
Powdered Mace 1 oz.
Alcohol 1 qt.

Mix the whole together; let it macerate for twenty-four hours or more, then filter.

EXTRACT CINNAMON.

Alcohol 10 gals.
Oil Cassia 8 oz.
True Oil Cinnamon 2 ”
Warm water 5 gals.

Proceed as in Lemon. Color to suit, with burnt sugar and red sandal.

EXTRACT CINNAMON NO. 2.

Oil Cinnamon 2 drs.
Alcohol 1 pt.
Water 1 ”
Powdered Cinnamon 4 ozs.

Dissolve the oil in 1 pint alcohol, add gradually 1 pint water, stirring constantly. Stir in the powdered cinnamon; agitate often for one day, filter through paper.

EXTRACT SARSAPARILLA.

Alcohol 1 gal.
Oil of Sassafras ¾ oz.
Oil of Wintergreen ¾ ”
Warm water ½ gal.

Mix the alcohol and oils; let stand one day, then add the warm water. Color to suit, with caramel.

ESSENCE PEPPERMINT.

Alcohol 12 ozs.
Water 8 ”
Oil Peppermint 1 ”
Peppermint Herbs ¼ ”

Mix the herbs and 4 ozs. alcohol and the oil together; let stand twenty-four hours. Mix the water and alcohol, then add the whole together, let stand twenty-four hours and filter.

STRONG JAMAICA GINGER.

Jamaica Ginger 12 lbs.
Rectified Spirit 2½ gals.

Bruise the unbleached ginger and place in the spirit; let it digest for two weeks. Strain it well, then reduce the essence by distillation to one gallon. Let cool and filter.

ESSENCE JAMAICA GINGER.

Jamaica Ginger 6 ozs.
Mace ½ oz.
Oil Lemon 1 dr.
Grains of Paradise 1 oz.
Alcohol 20 ozs.

Reduce the drugs to a coarse powder. Mix the oil of lemon and alcohol; then pour it on the drugs; let it stand for one day or more, then filter.

EXTRACT OF WINTERGREEN.

Alcohol 1 gal.
Warm water ½ ”
Oil Wintergreen 1¾ ozs.

Mix all together; let stand twenty-four hours; filter; color with red aniline.

ARTIFICIAL FLAVORS.

(_American Pharmacist._)

The numbers in acids refer to a cold concentrated solution of the acid in alcohol entirely free from fusel oil, and of a specific gravity of 83 degrees.

These flavors are of the highest concentration.

RASPBERRY.

Ethyl Nitrate 1 Part.
” Acetate 5 ”
” Formate 1 ”
” Butyrate 1 ”
” Benzoate 1 ”
” Œnanthylate 1 ”
” Sebate 1 ”
Methyl Salicylate 1 ”
Amyl Acetate 1 ”
” Butyrate 1 ”
Tartaric Acid 5 ”
Succinic Acid 5 ”
Glycerine 4 ”
Aldehyde 1 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

Mix all together.

STRAWBERRY.

Ethyl Nitrate 1 Part.
” Acetate 3 ”
” Formate 1 ”
” Butyrate 5 ”
Methyl Salicylate 1 ”
Amyl Acetate 1 ”
” Butyrate 2 ”
Glycerine 2 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

PEACH.

Ethyl Acetate 5 Parts
” Formate 5 ”
” Butyrate 5 ”
” Sebate 1 ”
Glycerine 2 ”
Aldehyde 2 ”
Amyl Alcohol 2 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

CHERRY.

Ethyl Acetate 5 Parts
” Benzoate 5 ”
Œnanthylate 1 ”
Glycerine 10 ”
Benzoic Acid 1 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

APRICOT.

Ethyl Butyrate 10 Parts
Œnanthylate 1 ”
Amyl Butyrate 1 ”
Glycerine 4 ”
Amyl Alcohol 2 ”
Chloroform 1 ”
Ethyl Valeriate 5 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

PLUM.

Ethyl Acetate 5 Parts
” Formate 1 ”
” Butyrate 2 ”
” Œnanthylate 4 ”
Glycerine 8 ”
Aldehyde 5 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

PINEAPPLE.

Ethyl Butyrate 5 Parts
Amyl Butyrate 10 ”
Glycerine 3 ”
Aldehyde 1 ”
Chloroform 1 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

MELON.

Ethyl Formate 1 Part
” Butyrate 4 ”
” Sebate 10 ”
Glycerine 3 ”
Aldehyde 2 ”
Ethyl Valeriate 5 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

APPLE.

Ethyl Nitrate 1 Part
Glycerine 4 ”
Aldehyde 2 ”
Chloroform 1 ”
Ethyl Acetate 1 ”
Amyl Valeriate 10 ”
Oxalic Acid 1 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

GRAPE.

Ethyl Formate 2 Parts
” Œnanthylate 10 ”
Methyl Salicylate 1 ”
Tartaric Acid 5 ”
Succinic Acid 3 ”
Glycerine 10 ”
Aldehyde 1 ”
Chloroform 2 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

PEAR.

Amyl Acetate 10 Parts
Glycerine 10 ”
Benzoic Acid 1 ”
Ethyl Acetate 5 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

CURRANT.

Ethyl Benzoate 1 Part
” Œnanthylate 1 ”
Tartaric Acid 5 ”
Succinic Acid 1 ”
Aldehyde 1 ”
Benzoic Acid 1 ”
Ethyl Acetate 5 ”
Alcohol 100 ”

As these are all of very great strength, they can be reduced, especially if for commercial purposes, by adding from 20 to 40 parts of warm water. Color to suit.

The following extracts are made by using the compound ether instead of the several different ethers used in the preceding formulas.

Any one handling the ethers in their pure state, can furnish them compounded ready for use, as follows:

RASPBERRY.

Alcohol 100 Parts
Glycerine 4 ”
Raspberry Ether 15 ”
Tartaric Acid 5 ”
Succinic Acid 5 ”

Warm water sufficient. Color with Red Aniline.

STRAWBERRY.

Alcohol 100 Parts
Glycerine 2 ”
Strawberry Ether 14 ”
Warm water sufficient. Color with Red Aniline.

PEACH.

Alcohol 100 Parts
Glycerine 2 ”
Peach Ether 20 ”
Water to suit. Color with Burnt Sugar.

CHERRY.

Alcohol 100 Parts
Glycerine 10 ”
Cherry Ether 12 ”
Water to suit.

PINEAPPLE.

Alcohol 100 Parts
Glycerine 3 ”
Pineapple Ether 17 ”
Water to suit.

PEAR.

Alcohol 100 Parts
Glycerine 10 ”
Pear Ether 16 ”

Water to suit.

ARTIFICIAL HONEY FLAVOR.

Jamaica Ginger 1 oz.
Alcohol 1 pt.
Attar Roses 7 drops.

Shake well; let stand four to eight days. If in hurry, digest in hot bath.

VANILLA EXTRACT—TRIPLE STRENGTH.

New Vanilla Beans, 6 to 8 inches long. 10 ozs.
Sugar 1 lb.
Alcohol 1½ qts.
Warm Water 2½ ”

Split the beans from end to end, then cut them crosswise into short strips ¼ to ½ inch long; dissolve the sugar in the water to a syrup; add to this the alcohol, mix well. Pour this on the chopped beans that have been placed in a jug or bottle. Cork tight and let stand for two weeks or longer to macerate, shaking it frequently in meantime. Draw off and filter as needed; use the old mass in next new batch made; never throw away the dregs.

If in a hurry this can be digested in a few hours by immersion in the hot water bath.

TRIPLE EXTRACT VANILLA.

(FROM VANILLIN.)

Alcohol 1 Gal.
Vanillin 1 Oz.
Water 2 Gals.
Sugar 3 Lbs.
Burnt Sugar (Caramel) sufficient to color.

Dissolve the Vanillin in the Alcohol, dissolve the sugar in ½ gallon of the water by heating the water; pour in the balance of the water, then mix the whole thoroughly by agitation for five minutes. Add the color. Filter through paper.

If for confectioners’ use, leave out the coloring.

VANILLIN is a concentrated Extract of Vanilla Beans, and is recommended on account of its simplicity and prompt action—saving time in manufacturing. However, the longer it is left standing the better it gets, but it can be used at once after mixing.

STANDARD VANILLA.

(SO CALLED.)

Alcohol 1½ Qts.
Water 2½ ”
Tonqua Beans ½ lb.

Cut the beans up fine. Mix all together in a jug or bottle; cork tight; let stand for two or more weeks, shaking occasionally. Color with burnt sugar.

This can be made sooner by using the hot water bath. A little genuine vanilla added to this is lost, but some of this Tonqua Extract added to Vanilla, is preferred by some.

TO PACK EXTRACTS.

Triple extracts are put up in full weight bottles. Standard extracts are put up in short weight bottles. Thus:

2 oz. panel holds really only 1 oz. to 1½ oz.
4 ” ” ” ” ” 2 to 3 oz.
8 ” ” ” ” ” full measure.
16 ” ” ” ” ” full measure.

Small bottles can be best filled by placing them in rows on a pan or large plate (to catch the waste or overflow) in 2 or 3 doz. lots. Use a soft one-fourth inch rubber tube as a siphon, setting the bulk on a box or shelf a few inches higher than the table you are working on.

This can also be done to good advantage when filling blueing, sweet oil, or any other liquids. Any second-hand bottle cleaned thoroughly can be used for blueing.

HAIR OIL.

Olive Oil ½ gal.
Oil Roses 1 dr.
Alcohol 5 ozs.

To color tie a small portion of Alkanet Root in a thin muslin bag, let it lie in the oil until it is colored to suit.

HAIR OIL—AROMATIC SCENT.

Cotton Seed Oil 2½ gals.
Oil Cloves ⅔ ozs.
” Thyme ⅓ ”
” Lavender 2 ”

Mix. No color.

LIQUID BLUEING.

Soluble Blue 8 lbs.
Oxalic Acid 2 ”

Mix the blueing and acid together in a tub with about five gallons of boiling water, stir it until it is well dissolved, add from ten to twenty gallons more of hot water. Keep stirring. Turn a hose into a barrel sitting on end with a spigot at lower edge over the tub, let it open, and dip the blueing from the tub into the barrel and keep it going constantly until both barrel and tub is filled and well mixed. This will make about 75 gallons of blueing; let it settle before drawing off.

INKS.

BLACK INK.

Extract Logwood 1 oz.
Soft Water 2 qts.
Prussiate Potash 20 grs.
Bichromate Potash 20 ”

Dissolve the extract of logwood in the one-half gallon of water. Have it boiling, add the potash.

FINE BLACK INK.

12 Pounds Aleppo Nut Galls Bruised, boil in 6 gallons of water for one hour. Use a copper vessel, adding water to make up for the portion lost by evaporation. Strain and again boil the same galls in 4 more gallons of water for one-half hour, strain off this liquor also, and boil a third time with 2½ gallons of water and strain; mix the several liquors, and while still hot add 4 pounds Green Copperas coarsely powdered, also, add 3½ pounds gum Arabic bruised; agitate until dissolved, strain through hair sieve, keep it in tight bunged keg. This will produce 12 gallons.

COMMON BLACK INK.

Bruised Galls 1 lb.
Logwood 2 ”
Common Gum ¾ ”
Green Copperas ½ ”
Water 5 gals.

Boil all together one and one-half hours, strain, and bottle.

BLUE WRITING FLUID NO. 1.

Dissolve basic or soluble Prussian Blue in pure water. This is the most permanent and beautiful ink known. It is not affected by the addition of alcohol, but is immediately precipitated saline matter.

BLUE WRITING FLUID NO. 2.

Pure Prussian Blue 6 Parts.
Oxalic Acid 1 ”
Water sufficient.

Triturate in a mortar the blue and acid with a little water to a smooth paste.

Dilute with water sufficient to make an easy flowing fluid.

COPYING INK.

Any Ordinary Ink 100 parts.
Glycerine 1 ”

Shake thoroughly.

Sugar is sometimes used in place of the Glycerine, but it is not as good.

FINER WRITING FLUID.

Dissolve Ceruleao Sulphate of Potassa or Ammonia (soluble indigo) in hot water, and when cold decant the clear. It is an intense blue and dries nearly black, is perfectly incorrosive, and very permanent and easy flowing. It may be thickened with gum water or diluted with pure rain water, as required.

PURPLE INK.

Infuse 12 pounds Campeachy Logwood in 12 gallons boiling water. Provide a funnel at the bottom of which a sponge has been placed. Pour the infusion through a strainer made of coarse flannel into the funnel, and thence on to 1 pound hydrate or acetate of copper (verdigris) then add immediately 14 pounds alum, and for each 17 gallons of the liquid, add 4 pounds of gum Arabic. Let these remain three or four days, and a beautiful purple will be produced.

GREEN INK.

Boil 2 parts or pounds acetate of copper and 1 pound bitartrate potassa in 1 gallon of water until the solution is reduced to one-half the bulk. Filter through a cloth and when cool, bottle.

RED INK.

Cochineal in powder 1 ounce, and hot water one-half pint. Digest, and when quite cold add 1 ounce liquor of ammonia and dilute with 3 or 4 ounces of water. Let stand 4 or 5 days, and decant the clear.

SECOND HAND BOTTLES.

By cleaning second-hand bottles gathered anywhere and everywhere, they are as good as new for blueing. A grocer using such, and when selling them tell parties buying the blue, that a couple of cents will be paid on return of pint bottles, will always have supply enough.

CASTOR OIL, GLYCERINE, AND SEWING MACHINE OIL.

These can be bought in bulk and bottled, or sold in bulk by using a druggist’s graduating glass; over 100 per cent. profit can be realized without charging more than your competitors for them.

BIRD SEED No. 1.

Sicily Canary Seed 70 lbs.
Hungarian Millet Seed 20 ”
German Rape Seed 10 ”

Clean and mix thoroughly; should hemp seed be desired do not mix it with the other seeds, but place one ounce of it in a small bag or envelope inside the package, then fill into the package the above mixture until it weighs one pound net weight; a piece of cuttlefish bone one inch long, placed in it, also makes the combination the very best.

Birds prefer the Hemp Seed to all others, and in seeking for it when mixed with the whole, they waste the other seeds by throwing them out of the cups; by separate packages the hemp seed can be fed as desired in separate cups.

Too much hemp seed is not good for song birds. Some bird fanciers discard it entirely.

GOOD BIRD SEED.

Canary Seed 60 lbs.
Millet ” 20 ”
Hemp ” 10 ”
Rape ” 10 ”

Clean, mix and pack.

WHOLESALE GROCERY GRADE.

Canary Seed 40 to 75 lbs.
Millet ” 30 ”
Hemp ” 25 ”
Rape ” 5 ”

The Hemp and Millet can be varied as to quantity, due regard being given to the market price of each, or in fact any of the seeds; there are much poorer combinations than this packed, yet people wonder why their songsters cease to sing and die, and the retail grocers are astonished at the way the package bird seed trade has declined.

Parties packing good grades will always succeed in the end. This is applicable to all kinds of goods.

BIRD GRAVEL is gathered on sand bars or gravel bars along creeks, rivers, etc. Sift through sieve to exclude the larger pieces of stone and gravel, then sift through a finer sieve to allow the sand to escape. Packed about 2½ pounds to package.

OXALIC ACID.

Buy in bulk; pulverize to suit. Pack in wooden ointment boxes marked with skull and crossbones, or word poison on package.

TO PACK SEEDS, FARINACEOUS FOODS, ETC. IN PASTEBOARD PACKAGES.

First determine what shape you want to put your goods up in, how high a package, how wide and how deep. You then order from any paper box maker the shells the size you want.

He will also furnish you with the tops, bottoms, and the square sheets of manilla paper for the caps. The box maker will send you the shells, scored on the four corners, lapped and glued together; you then need a form. It is a block of wood that will fit loosely inside the shell. Take a piece of board, say one foot long and six inches wide; attach the block in an upright position on the middle of the board by driving a couple nails into it from the under side of the board. Open the shell and pass it over the block.

Now this block must be just the thickness of pasteboard, shorter than the shell; before you push the shell clear down over the block, take one of the ends and place it inside the shell down on the block; then shove the shell all the way down, thereby bringing the top of the shell just even with the top of the pasteboard end. You then prepare your caps which have a margin over the net size of the top of one-half inch all around. Take the dry cap, put some thin paste on it; lay another cap on that, paste it, and lay another until you have about fifty pasted on both sides, then turn the pile of them over. Put some fresh paste on the first one before picking it up, then lay the fresh side down on the top of the shell, turn down the sides and crease in at ends, then fasten the ends down by rubbing over it gently with the hand. Remove the shell from the block and repeat the performance on the balance. Let your shells get well dried.

The object in placing paste on both sides of the caps is to saturate them so as to work easy and pliable, and also to strengthen and stiffen when dry.

After your shells have dried sufficiently, weigh in your goods, clean off all flour or other material that should adhere to the outside of the shell. Lay the pasteboard end on top of the material or filling, then proceed as in making the shell with the caps; after the caps are pasted on, turn the package upside down; the weight of material inside will force the end against the cap. When dry, label as per Instructions for Labeling.

LABELING CANS.

Paste your labels with thin paste. Fold each one together, pasted sides in. Without you are an expert do not paste more than half a dozen. When ready to label turn the pile of them over so as to use from the bottom, or those first pasted. The pasting of half a dozen or more allows them to get well moistened before using. When placed on the cans or packages in their moist state, there will be no wrinkles when they have dried. After labeling, stand the packages on top of each other to height of three or four packages. Do not place them close together, but so that air can circulate between them.

TO LABEL INK, BLUEING, EXTRACT AND OIL BOTTLES.

Paste evenly a board a foot or more square, with thin paste. Then take the labels you wish to use and lay them backs down on the paste. After you have laid out, say a couple dozen, take a piece of paper, newspaper will do, and cover the whole, then press them down by rubbing your hand over the paper. This is the dampening process for small labels. Commence with the first label laid down to label the bottle, and continue in order; first pasted, first used.

DIRECTIONS FOR LABELING.

Apply the paste to back of labels, with a wide brush. Fold the labels (the pasted surfaces together), and let them lie about one minute, which will give the proper time to absorb a portion of the moisture. Then commence with the first one pasted, and rub down smooth with a stiff brush or handful of cloth.

Labels should be kept in a cool, dry place, standing on their edges. Never lay them down flat.

PASTE.

For a good paste that will neither decay nor become moldy, mix clean flour with cold water into a paste well blended, then add boiling water and boil, stirring constantly to keep from burning, stirring well up until it is of a consistency that can be easily and smoothly spread with a brush; add to this a spoonful or two of powdered alum, to keep it from becoming sour or spoiling.

FLOUR PASTE.

The best paste for general purposes is simply wheat flour beaten into cold water to perfect smoothness, and the whole just brought to a boil, while being constantly stirred to prevent burning. The addition of a few drops of creosote, or a few grains of corrosive sublimate, or a little carbolic acid, or bisulphite of lime (especially the first and second), will prevent insects from attacking it, and preserve it (in covered vessels) for years. Should it get too hard it may be softened with water.

OLIVE OIL.

The oil generally used for this purpose is a refined grade of cottonseed oil (the stearine or fat being removed from the crude or fresh oil.) It can be bought of any good wholesale oil dealers. It is put up in bottles called pints, holding in reality only 10 ozs.; in half pints, holding 5 ozs. Put on a foreign sounding label (carried in stock by label houses). Pasting an inch and a half of tin foil around the cork and neck completes the job.

This oil is both as pure and strong as the genuine olive oil, and much cheaper. Olive oil pure is almost impossible to buy at any price.

DESICCATED COCOANUT.

“No, sir, we don’t make cocoanuts,” said a member of a firm whose sign read, “Cocoanut Manufacturing Company,” in response to an inquiry of a reporter for _The New York Mail and Express_. “What we do is to prepare cocoanut for confectioners, bakers and families, to be used for pies and pastry. The nuts are brought here by the vessel-load, some ships bringing as many as 400,000 in one cargo. They are put up in bags of one hundred each. The average weight of the green nut is one and one-half pounds. The best are those thickest in meat and richest in natural oil and sugar. They come from San Blas, Cow Island, San Andreas, Ruatans, Jamaica, and Baracoa. They grow on the islands of the Caribbean Sea, and the trees are so planted that the roots are constantly washed with salt water. The nuts are not picked from the tree, but fall to the ground when ripe because of the decay of the stems. When the husk is taken off they are ready for shipping. The perishable nature of the green nut has made desiccated cocoanut more desirable in the market, and this is the article we manufacture and sell.”

“What is the operation?”

“The cocoanuts are placed in a large hopper, from which they fall to a zinc-covered table on a lower floor. In front of this table several men are placed, who crack the shell of the nut with a hatchet as it falls on the table. Then the shell is pried off, leaving the meat whole. From six to eleven o’clock six men at this work open twelve thousand nuts. A peeling machine then takes off the brown skin of the nuts, after which the meats are broken into pieces, the milk drawn off, and the pieces put into tubs of clean cold water. The meat is then inspected as to its quality, and next it is put into a grinding mill turning four hundred revolutions a minute. The pulp thus made is mixed with granulated sugar and put in long pans of galvanized iron, which are put in the desiccators and the water extracted at a high temperature. An interesting fact about the work is that the entire process must be completed by two o’clock in the afternoon, because of the delicate nature of the fruit. The desiccated nut is white as snow, and perfectly dry, when it has been through the process, and it is then allowed to cool, and is left in a dry temperature for ten days before it is finally put up for the market. At three o’clock each day the work is all done.”

“What about the idea that cocoanut is indigestible?”

“It is supposed by many persons to be so. But the best growths show by analysis about 48 per cent. of digestible oils, 5 per cent. of sugar, about 46 per cent. of water, and only 1 per cent. of ash. This being the case, there is scarcely anything people eat more digestible and nutritious.”

TO PACK COCOANUT.

Buy a grade that is desiccated in sugar by the barrel, known as Baker’s A Grade. It is as good as is usually packed in cans or packages. Pack in cans or paper shells. If in shells line them with wax paper. Fruit jars are useful and handy packages for this purpose. Some manufacturers call 13 ounces 1 pound, and 6½ ozs. a half pound.

AQUA AMMONIA.

Buy FFFF ammonia by the carboy. Put up in pint bottles, cork with rubber or rubber covered corks. If common cork is used tie a piece of bladder over the top of the cork.

HORSERADISH.

Grate fine to suit. Mix with vinegar. Bottle and cork tight. A little alcohol added will keep it from freezing.

To adulterate Horseradish mix grated turnips with it.

CANDY.

Degrees of Boiling Sugar.

In preparing sugar for candies the confectioner requires different degrees of boiling in order to bring the sugar to the proper state for the various articles he prepares. Well clarified and perfectly transparent syrup is boiled until a skimmer dipped into it, and a portion touched between the forefinger and thumb, on opening them, is drawn into a small thread which crystallizes and breaks. This is called a weak candy height.

If boiled again, it will draw into a larger string, and if bladders may be blown with the mouth through the drippings from the ladle, it has acquired the second degree, and is called bloom sugar.

After still further boiling, it arrives at the state called feathered sugar. To determine this dip the skimmer and shake it over the pan, then give it a sudden flirt or jerk, and the sugar will fly off like feathers.

The next degree is that of crackled sugar, in which state the sugar that hangs to a stick dipped into it, and put directly into cold water, is not dissolved off, but turns hard and snaps.

The last stage of boiling reduces it to caramel sugar, and is proved by dipping a stick into the sugar and then into cold water, when, on the moment it touches the water it will snap like glass. It has now arrived at a full candy height.

Throughout the boiling the fire must not be too fierce, as it will discolor the syrup. The best safeguard against this is the use of steam heat. Color may be given to the candy by adding the coloring matter to the syrup before boiling it. Flavoring essences must be added when the process is nearly complete.

CREAM CANDY.

Fine White Sugar 8 lbs.
Water 2 pts.
Vinegar ⅜ ”
Butter 1 oz.
Vanilla Extract 2 teasp’nfuls.
Soda ½ ”

Boil all together except the vanilla (which add after boiling) until it cracks in water, after which work it till very white.

SUGAR CANDY.

White Sugar 6 cups.
Vinegar 1 ”
Water 1 ”
Butter 1 tablespoonful.
Soda 1 teaspoonful.

Let boil without stirring thirty minutes. Use flavor to suit.

MAPLE CANDY.

Butter 2 tablespoonfuls.
Maple Syrup 4 pts.

Let boil until it cracks in water.

CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.

Sugar 2 pts.
Warm water 1 ”
Grated Chocolate ½ ”
Butter ¾ ”

Let boil until it cracks in water.

TO CANDY NUTS OR FRUIT.

Sugar 3 pts.
Water 1 ”
Sufficient Lemon Flavor.

Boil the water and sugar until it hardens in water, then add the lemon flavor; use a pair of candy tongs or a sharp piece of wire, stick into the nut kernel or the fruit to be candied, immerse it in the candy while warm, take it out, cool it, and draw out the wire rod.

COCOANUT CANDY.

Dessicated Cocoanut 4 oz.
Sugar 1 lb.
Water ½ pt.
White of egg sufficient.

Mix the egg and water, pour it over the sugar, let it stand a few minutes. Boil for a few minutes over a clear fire; set aside, skim all the scum off, then boil until thick, mix in the cocoanut. Mix well, and keep at it until finished.

ALMOND CANDY.

Grate your almonds, then proceed as in cocoanut candy.

MOLASSES CANDY.

Molasses 1 qt.
Brown Sugar 1½ lbs.
Juice of one Lemon
Lemon Oil 12 drops.

Mix the sugar and molasses together. Butter the inside of a porcelain-lined kettle. Put the mixture into it. Let boil over a slow fire two hours. Add the lemon oil and juice, and boil another half hour. Stir often to prevent burning. When done, it will cease boiling of itself. Butter a pan; pour out to cool. If properly done it will be crisp and brittle. (Nuts of any kind may be added just before pouring into the pan.) It must be worked, if at all, just as soon as it is cool enough to handle. Use butter on your hands to prevent sticking.

MOLASSES TAFFY.

Molasses 1 qt.
Water 1 gill.
Butter 1 tablespoonful.
Brown Sugar 1 ”

Allow the molasses and water to boil until nearly stiff enough, then add the butter and sugar; let boil about ten minutes additional. Pour into pans buttered.

SUGAR TAFFY.

Sugar 2 cups.
Butter ¾ ”

Place in pan or kettle porcelain lined. Boil gently until stiff enough. Cool in buttered pans.

HONEY.

ARTIFICIAL NO. 1.

White Sugar 10 lbs.
Water ½ gals.
Pure Honey 1½ lbs.
Ess. Peppermint 10 drops.
Cream Tartar 40 grains

Dissolve the sugar in the water over a slow fire. Skim as needed; bring it almost to the boiling point; stir it occasionally. Remove it from the fire; add 1 pound of the honey, and the cream tartar dissolved in a little warm water; stir, and when at blood heat add balance of the honey. When nearly cold add the peppermint. The quantity of this can be varied to suit the taste. A slippery elm decoction added only in cold weather improves the deception. If better article is wanted, add more honey and less water.

ARTIFICIAL HONEY NO. 2.

Soft Water 1 gal.
Alum 1 oz.
White Sugar 32 lbs.
Artificial Honey Flavor 1 oz.

Boil the alum and water together; set off and dissolve the sugar in it; then boil again for two or three minutes only. Strain it, and when it has become lukewarm, add the flavor. Stir well.

CHEWING GUM.

Prepared Balsam Tolu 2 lbs.
White Sugar 1 ”
Oatmeal 3 ”
Sufficient Water.

Dissolve or soften the gum in the water, then mix in the sugar and oatmeal into a thick paste. Roll out into sticks in pulverized sugar mixed with flour or corn starch. Dry.

PARAFFINE CHEWING GUM.

Paraffine dissolved in cottonseed oil and glycerine at a moderate heat, stirring constantly, then cooled and pressed; may be used in this state as chewing gum, or substituted in above formula for the balsam tolu.

BORAX POWDER.

So much used now, can be bought at a nominal price in barrels. It can be packed in paper packages without loss of strength. It is often adulterated with terra alba, which in itself is not injurious, but is a cheat on the consumer.

FINE RED CATSUP.

Ripe Tomatoes 1 bu.
Red Pepper, ground ½ teaspoonful
Mustard, ground 1 tablespoonful
Salt 3 ”
Sugar 1 lb.
Vinegar 3 pts.
Allspice, whole 1 tablespoonful
Cloves, whole 1 ”
Black Pepper, whole 1 ”

Wash and quarter the tomatoes. Place in a porcelain-lined kettle. Let them boil in their own liquor until soft, about one hour on a brisk fire. Strain through a fine sieve to exclude the seeds. Add red pepper, mustard, salt, sugar and vinegar. Place the black pepper, cloves and allspice in a small muslin bag, then put it into the juice. Boil for four hours, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Let cool, and bottle.

EAST INDIA CURRY POWDER.

Coriander Seeds 2 lbs.
Turmeric Root ¾ ”
Fenugrek Seed ½ ”
Mustard Seed ½ ”
Cummin Seed ¾ ”
Cayenne Pepper to suit.

These seeds and roots must be fresh. Roast all separately; be careful not to burn them. Powder finely; mix thoroughly, and bottle to suit.

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE.

ENGLISH FORMULA.

Walnut Catsup 1 gal.
Mushroom Catsup 1 ”
Vinegar 1½ ”
Madeira Wine ½ ”
Canton Soy ½ ”
Dampened Sugar 2½ lbs.
Salt 19 ozs.
Powdered Capsicum 3 ”
Coriander 1½ ”
Pimento 1½ ”
Cloves ¾ ”
Chutney, 1½ ”
Mace ¾ ”
Cinnamon ¾ ”
Asafœtida 6½ drs.
Brandy 20 deg. above proof 1 pt.
Hog’s Liver 2 lbs.
Water 1 gal.

Mix all together down to asafœtida. Dissolve the latter in the brandy, then add it to the mass. Boil the liver in the water for twelve hours, replenishing the water as it boils down. Then mix the liver and water thoroughly, strain through a coarse sieve; add this to the balance and mix well; let stand.

IMITATION WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE.

Red Pepper 3 tablespoonfuls.
Walnut or Tomato Catsup 2 ”
Shalots, chopped fine 3
Anchovies ” ” 3
Vinegar 1 qt.
Cloves ½ teaspoonful.

Put all into a stone jar; set in water bath; heat gradually until it is too hot to bear your finger in it. Let it stand two days; strain and bottle.

TO IMPROVE RANCID BUTTER.

Wash the butter well in good fresh milk and then with cold clear water. Butyric acid which causes the rancidity is freely soluble in fresh milk.

TO IMPROVE RANCID BUTTER. NO. 2.

Butter 2 lbs.
Chloride of Lime 30 drops.
Water to suit.

Beat the butter thoroughly with the water after adding the lime to it; let it stand for a couple of hours in the water. Pour it all off, then wash thoroughly in cold clear water. This is a harmless and good way to sweeten the butter.

TO PURIFY RANCID BUTTER.

Melt the butter; pour off from it any deposit, then boil it a short time with limewater; allow to settle, then suddenly cool the butter, which can be done by pouring it into clear fresh water containing broken ice, after which it can be taken from the water and worked same as if just fresh churned.

BUTTER COLOR

Pure Cottonseed Oil 100 lbs.
Purified Annatto 10 ”
Alcohol ½ pt.

Digest twenty-four hours, or boil for thirty minutes. Draw off, then filter, add the ½ pint alcohol; shake well; warm it before putting in bottles; cork, and seal well.

BUTTER COLOR.

The following is a cheaper color:

Water 12½ gals.
Annatto, purified 10 lbs.
Caustic Potassa 1 ”
Borax 1 ”

Mix, and proceed as above.

PULVERIZED BATH BRICK.

A fair quality of cement sifted through a very fine sieve. Pack in packages, same as corn starch.

TIN AND METAL POLISH.

Rotten stone sifted through a hair or fine muslin sieve. Mix with it soft soap until it is brought to the consistency of putty; add to it two ounces of oil of turpentine. It will harden soon; it can be placed in tin boxes, small shoe polish boxes, or it can be made into balls. Moisten the paste with water for use; smear it over the glass, brass, tin or other articles to be cleansed. Rub dry with a dry soft rag.

PASTE SHOE POLISH.

WITHOUT OIL VITRIOL—NO. 1.

Molasses 1 lb.
Ivory Black 1¼ ”
Sweet Oil 2 ozs.