Chapter II: Part 2

_George, Fort._--Is the principal fortification of the island, and is constructed on the improved form of a square, having four bastions connected by curtains, with a ravelin to the South, and a counter-scarp to the South-West. It will admit about three thousand men, and has thirty-four pieces of cannon, four mortars, and a caronade. Most of the batteries are erected in a form for repelling the enemy at sea, and some of them are very formidable. From the ramparts or parade ground there is one of the most extensive and diversified prospects in the island; and underneath the former are spacious casemates, which in case of a siege can be converted into barracks. It was completed in the year 1812, at a national cost of 200,000l., but was commenced immediately after the breaking out of the American war, in 1782.

_Goal._--The public goal was erected in 1811, and cost the island 11,000l. It is a solid structure, built entirely with blue granite, and has a neat front elevation, in which are two galleries; the lower one for debtors, the upper one for criminals. The debtors have five cells, in all of which are fire-places, and the creditors by whom they are incarcerated are obliged to find them in blankets, a bedstead and straw palliasses; but must supply themselves with bed, bedding, and other furniture at their own expence. They are unlocked throughout winter and summer at eight o'clock in the morning, and are locked up at sun-set every evening. They have a large court yard to walk in. The cells are provided with bell-pulls, communicating with the bed-room of the Governor, in case of sickness.

The felons' cells are ten in number, eight for the men, and two for the women; but it has been observed by the benevolent Mrs Fry, that the cells for the latter are not sufficiently apart from those of the men, insomuch that when locked up they can converse with each other, especially when taking air, being only separated by a partition of sheet iron and bars. Felons and criminals are allowed exercise on the gallery in front of their cells, and according to the prison regulations are to be unlocked from ten in the forenoon till two in the afternoon; though, in point of fact, this space of time is generally extended by the Governor, particularly in the summer season. In four of the cells are fire-places, and prisoners are allowed straw palliasses, three blankets and a rug; firing they must provide at their own expence. On a prisoner becoming refractory he may be deprived of his liberty, and by a report of the case to the Baillif within twenty-four hours, may be confined to the black-hole. Irons are not used on felons about to undergo the last penalty of the law, and prisoners under solitary confinement perform no work. There is no sick ward nor chapel, neither is there a chaplain appointed to visit the prisoners, but bibles and religious tracts are provided for their use.

The Governor has a house within the prison walls in which debtors may be accommodated, provided they pay an additional sum of 1s. 9d. per week. Debtors not having the wherewithal to maintain themselves, are allowed 9d. per day, which the creditor at whose suit they are imprisoned is bound to pay them, otherwise they are set at liberty. Criminals are provided for out of the revenue belonging to the Crown. Strangers are permitted to visit debtors from nine in the morning until four in the afternoon, from the 1st of October to the 1st of April, and from nine in the morning until seven in the afternoon from the 1st of April to the 1st of October.

_Herbs and Medical Plants._--Are in great abundance in every part of the island, but as a list of them would be out of place in a work of this kind, it only remains for me to mention those which are in the greatest profusion under foot, and which, from close observation I have found to be most useful in medicine, cookery, and other purposes. They are:--wood-sage, camomile, samphire, lords and ladies, fools-stones, blue-bells, pennyworth,[A] ladies' smock, hagnebuts, eryngo,[B] fox-glove, night-shade, high-taper, mugwort, robin-run-in-the-hedge and mouse-ear, with numerous others.

[A] From a memorandum dated April 3, 1832, I find that pennyworth or
hart's-tongue steeped in vinegar for twenty-four hours, to be the
most efficient remedy for corns I ever knew, and on communicating
it to a few others, they were pleased to acknowledge the same. I
have many other memorandums on Guernsey herbs; but as they are
written in Latin, and were mislaid up to the hour of publishing,
are consequently omitted.

[B] Hops are antiseptic, and are an excellent thing for packing game
in, for in a memorandum, Wednesday, September 7, 1842--"Received a
hamper of grouse from a friend in Newcastle; were a fortnight at
sea, and perhaps had been killed for upwards of a month:
nevertheless, from their mouths and other parts being well stuffed
with hops, arrived in pretty tolerable condition." Wild hops may be
observed growing in several parts of the island, especially about
some of the hedges in the Valle, and near the Friquet. Camomile
flower is also remarkably abundant in this vicinity, and in a field
called the Queen's meadow the ground is literally covered with
it.--_Memorandum, August 12, 1842._

_Hay._--Varies in price, but is hardly ever beyond 6l. per ton, if so, the season must be unusually bad. The upland hay is generally esteemed the best.

_Horses._--Are small, cross grained, and given to biting; but are lusty and hard workers. They are cheaper than in England, and a hack may be kept in the best order for about 20l. per annum. Horses at the livery stables may be hired at from 4s. to 7s. per day. There are no taxes on horses, carriages or livery servants.

_Hospital._--This excellent institution, the admiration of every stranger, is under the direction of a Treasurer, Vice-Treasurer, six Directors, and six Collectors, elected by the rate-payers: and although called an hospital, partakes of the properties of a poor-house, a refuge for the destitute, a work-house, a penitentiary, and for the destitute youth of both sexes a seminary of instruction; and, but for the receptacle for lunatics, its interior economy reflects the greatest credit on the island. There is a chaplain whose salary is 30l. per annum, and the medical department is under the most liberal regulations. The boys and girls have schools, in which they are educated in all things useful for their future occupations through life. Indeed, the system pursued is in accordance with the most approved methods of modern times, for the expences are partly defrayed by the labour of the inmates, together with a strict performance of all the other in-door work, which is effected with the utmost regularity, order and cleanliness imaginable. So much is the general system admired, that it is spoken of in exceeding high terms by Quail and several other writers and travellers. A late visitor says:--"On entering the hospital, the scene was an active one, insomuch that almost all the men were occupied, some in weaving cloth, some as tailors, others as shoe-makers, &c., whilst the women were engaged in washing.[A] On the whole, whether we regard this hospital as an asylum from misery, or as a school of morality, I must say that I have never yet seen any institution in the kingdom that would stand in competition with it."

[A] In addition to washing for the hospital, a great deal is taken in
from families living in the neighbourhood; by which means the women
do much towards paying the expence of their maintenance. The
greater part of the cloth, shoes, &c., which the men manufacture,
is sold. The men are also employed as scavengers.

The number of inmates admitted in 1840, were 121 men, 100 women, 34
boys, and 27 girls, forming a total of 282. In the same year were
indentured, 6 boys and 2 girls, whilst those discharged, escaped,
or expelled were 33 boys, and 25 girls. The total expenditure of
the said year was £4,358 8s. 5d. The following items pretty clearly
indicate the comforts that reign within, as also the good feeling
and humanity of the people of Guernsey:--14,526 lbs. of beef; 4,085
lbs. of bacon and pork; 471 qrs. of wheat; 115-1/2 hhds. of beer;
3,964 lbs. of butter; 1,400 faggots; 2,562 gallons of milk,
together with many other things in due proportion. The average
yearly expence of each inmate, is not more than seven pounds,
notwithstanding that at least half of those in the hospital are
boys and girls who produce but little, being the greater part of
the day in school; and then there are also many lunatics and infirm
people who are totally unable to do any thing towards their own
support, and who are treated with great kindness, and allowed
abundance of good food and clothing.

The Country Hospital is nearly on the same principle, and is situated in a secluded kind of valley, in the Câtel parish.

_Inns and Hotels._--In town, these are replete with every accommodation and comfort. The principal are Marshall's and Gardner's, and from both being situated in High-street, a very little distance from the pier, the porters are enabled without delay to set the visitor at ease. At the country inns may be obtained good plain fare, such as bread, butter, eggs, bacon, milk, cream, fish, cider, beer, spirits and wine, which latter article is not always to be had, and if so, is sometimes of an indifferent quality. Besides inns, there are other houses in the country that entertain pic-nic parties throughout the summer, some of which are very superior in their accommodations, and exceedingly moderate in their charges. They may be easily discovered as the drivers of the coaches and omnibuses which run round the island, either know or put up at them.

_James's Church, St._--Was erected in 1818, and was consecrated on the 6th of August in the same year. It is situated opposite the side of the new Prison and near the College play ground, and is generally allowed to be a handsome specimen of Grecian architecture, the tower, portico and dome being considered the chief features. The funds for erecting it were raised in part from the sale of the pews, and from liberal donations granted by the late Lord De Saumarez, of which 400l. went in purchase of four hundred free sittings for the poor and the children of the national schools; 120l. for the dome and tower, and latterly a donation of 400l., together with many other contributions and assistance, amounting in the whole to upwards of 1000l. The rest was raised by public subscription.

The church contains 1300 sittings, amongst which are four for the use of the minister, and twelve for casual strangers. The service, on Sundays is at half past ten in the morning, and in the evening at half past six. Prayers are also read on Wednesdays and Fridays at noon, and also on festivals. The sacrament of the Lord's supper is twice in the quarter. The bell of this church cost 100l. and the organ 500l.

_John's Church, St._--Was erected in the year 1836, and in its style emulates the early English, though many of those genuine features are lost sight of. Contrary to every other church, the tower is at the East and the altar at the West end. It is built of well-wrought blue granite, and from being situated in the centre of a woody district, forms a considerable addition to the landscape. The foundation stone was laid by the late Lord De Saumarez, and it contains 600 sittings, 200 of which are free for the poor. The services are in English; two full services on Sundays, and weekly evening lecture. The endowment consists of a parsonage-house, adjoining the church, and 13l. per annum secured on rents; together with the surplus of the pews, which after payment of the current expences of the church, may amount to about 90l. per annum, provided the pews are all let.

_Land._--The price at which it is rented will scarcely be credited by strangers, as it must be exceedingly inferior, if it does not fetch 3l. per vergée, which is at the rate of 7l. 10s. per statute acre. The Couture, which is the best sample, may be valued at 5l. per vergée per annum. Land for building, in the vicinity of the town, is so enormously high, that at times it has fetched one thousand pounds per English acre.

_Letters._--Are delivered in the town and suburbs, almost immediately after the arrival of the packet. In the country it is not so, for it sometimes happens that the packet is signaled as early as eight o'clock, whereas the letters have not been delivered until four o'clock in the evening.[A] The Post-Office Packets come in regularly twice a week, Sundays and Thursdays, unless prevented by exceedingly severe weather.

[A] This delay evidently proceeds from want of more letter-carriers,
and which I have since heard is the case. According to my Jersey
diary, letters were regularly brought to my house at Le Hocquette,
about two miles and a half from town, between one and two o'clock,
provided the packet had a tolerable passage.--_Mem. Aug. 10, 1840._

_Light-house._--Also called the Round-house, is situated at the head of the South pier, and was erected for the convenience of mariners approaching the road-stead and harbour in the night. It is a large lantern, in which several gas-burners are introduced, and the light may be seen coming through the Small Russel from the Northward, the Great Russel from the Eastward, and from the Southward when rounding St Martin's Point.

_Libraries._--There are two: one belonging to the Mechanics' Institution, and Redstone's circulating library, in both of which are reading rooms. In the former lectures are delivered throughout the winter.

_Manufactories._--Are few, the principal being those for potatoe spirit, vinegar, Roman cement, bricks, soap and candles, paper and cordage. The main portion of the spirit, vinegar, cement and bricks is for exportation; whilst the soap, candles, and cordage are for local consumption. The largest distillery is at the Bouet, near Ivy Castle, belonging to Messrs Valpy and Lainé. It has a steam-engine, and every necessary apparatus for distilling spirit from native potatoes, when it is exported for the London market, where it is rectified. Three years' export of this article is as follows: 1834, 8,468 gallons; 1835, 52,639 gallons; 1836, 17,644 gallons.

_Margaret Church, St._--The parish church of the Forest was consecrated on the 3d September, 1163. It has a nave, North aisles and chancel; and has a low tower and octagonal spire at the junction of the chancel and nave. The North aisle is of modern structure, with plain granite lintels, and a square-headed piscina in the East wall. One of the South windows appears to have been divided into two lights, with an orbit between, and the rude ornamented heads cut out of blocks of granite. Like every thing else, this window has submitted to the chisel of modern art, wherefore the ornamental portions have been worked off in order to form a segmental head. The inside wall of the chancel is splayed, and the East window semi-circular and cinque-foil. The East and West sides of the tower are longer than the others, consequently impart to the spire an ugly and deformed appearance.

_Martellos._--Are round towers situated on the coast in different parts of the island, at stated distances, particularly on the Northern or vale side, and are garrisoned with soldiers in time of war.

_Martin's Church, St_--Consists of a nave, chancel and aisle. The two former, with the tower, which is at the junction of the two, are of the early English style, and the latter with the windows of the building of modern formation. There was once a slab that contained a brass plate representing a lay-man or merchant with his lady. The stone is still there, but much defaced, and probably in a few years will entirely disappear. The porch, facing the South, which is of the decorative style, is the most elegant in the island. The corner buttresses are terminated with ornamental pinnacles of crochets and finials, and are set diagonally at one stage. According to the "Dédicace des Eglises," this church was consecrated on the 4th of February, 1199, in the tenth year of the reign of Henry II, king of England.

_Meat_--Is very good, and surpasses that of Jersey, but is dearer than in England, though to an English resident, if he draws his income from England, it will not appear so, considering there are 18 ounces to the pound, and that he gets from 5 to 6 per cent premium for his money. Beef sells at 5d. to 8d. per lb.; mutton, 6d. to 8d.; veal 5d. to 7d.; pork 4d. to 6d.; bacon, 6d., 9d. and 11d.

_Meat Market, the_--Is commodious, clean and airy, and is perhaps one of the most convenient, both for buyer and seller that can be found in any part of the world, and is as well furnished with meat as any market in England.

_Mechanics' Wages_--Are regulated according to occupation and ability. Journeymen smiths and ironmongers earn from 12s. to 24s., carpenters average about 18s., masons and plasterers 15s., tailors (in the busy season) 20s., printers 10s. to 18s., shoe-makers 10s. to 15s., shopmen 15s. per week.

_Militia_.--In time of peace, all subjects of her Majesty, not being natives of the island, and who do not possess real property therein, are exempt from the said service; but otherwise, after a residence of a year and a day, are as liable to be called on as the natives themselves. Also every subject exercising for his profit any trade, business, calling, or profession whatever, shall, after a year and a day, be subject to the laws, ordinances, and regulations thereof.

_Mills._--In the country wind-mills are common, as they may be seen in almost every parish, where from their being situated on eminences, occasionally beautify the landscape. They are not exactly after the English fashion, as they have a vertical top that shifts with the wind. There are also both in town and country water-mills driven by small rivulets, and steam-mills, but of the latter there is only one in the country, in the parish of St Martin. Of late years a new method or mill for grinding apples has been adopted. It consists of two cylinders furnished with knives crossing each other as they revolve; by which simple but improved process the apples are cut, bruised and prepared for the press cheese at the same time.

_Miscellaneous Societies_--Are, the Guernsey Mutual Insurance Society for Shipping,[A] Provident Society, Society for promoting Christianity among the Jews, Church Pastoral Society, Church of England Society, Irish Society, Société Evangelique, Irish Scripture Readers Society, Society for the Promotion of Christian Knowledge, Bethel Union, Amie des Pauvres, Humane Society, Benevolent or Stranger's Friend Society, Charitable Association, all of which have been instituted since 1811.

[A] This Society commenced on the 31st December, 1838, with a mutual
risk of only £14,000 and consists of a chairman, secretary, and a
Committee of six persons. The amount insured in 1842 was more than
£70,000. The amount of the present year is upwards of £66,000. Each
vessel entered carries a flag composed of a white lozenge on a red
ground, and the number is marked in blue figures on the white
lozenge. The number of vessels on the Society's books for the
present year is 87.

_Missionary Societies._--Are, the Church Missionary Society, Society for the Promotion of the Gospel in foreign parts, Wesleyan Missionary Society, London Society (Independents), Methodist, New Connexion Society, Moravian Society, Primitive Methodists Society, Bible Christian Society, Baptists Society, &c., all of which have been established from 1817 to 1840, and whose united contributions amount to 1,333l.

_Money._--French frank pieces form the current silver coin of the island, twenty-four of which are the legal tender for the Guernsey pound currency. The frank is ten pence English, and is divided into single, double and five frank pieces. Notwithstanding the above is the active and lawful specie of the island, all things are bought and sold by the shilling English. Of late years the Government were about to introduce the English currency, but for great interests best known to the island, it was vigorously resisted. On an English shilling there is a premium of one half-penny, but on the sovereign fourteen pence.

_New Ground_--Is a fine piece of table land, purchased by the inhabitants of the town, in 1782, h for the purpose of forming a promenade, and which now from the luxurious growth of the trees, and other ornamental displays, vies with any thing of the kind on the Continent. The lower part figures as a grove, through which is a spacious gravel walk, canopied in summer with dense foliage. The smaller walks are only partially shaded, but have seats and resting places tastefully arranged. On the North side is Beau Séjour, the residence of Mr Harry Dobrée, which has all the character of an English villa, and may strikingly remind one of those in the New Forest.

_Newspapers_--Are, two in English and one in French. The English are the _Star_ and _Comet_, published on Mondays and Thursdays. The French, the _Gazette de Guernesey_, published every Saturday. The former are 2d. each, the latter 1-1/2d.

_Omnibuses_--Are four: the _Defiance_, _Favourite_, _Victoria_, and _Nelson_. One starts from the Town Church for St Sampson's every morning at 8, 9, and 12 o'clock, and in summer to St Saviour's and different part of the island every Saturday afternoon. Pic-nic parties are taken to any part of the island.

_Oxen_--Arrive to considerable size, and in the country are employed at the plough and in drawing carts. After a certain servitude, or when they are seven or eight years old, they are fattened and sold to the butcher. Their size and weight are of such importance as to have attracted the notice of Quail; for in his report he says: "Those of 1200 lbs. or 60 score, appear not unfrequently, and from the evidence of the clerk of the market, there was one which attained the weight of 1500 lbs."

_Parsnips_--Are the best farming crop in the island, and are cultivated to some extent. They are chiefly used for fattening cattle and hogs, from which the pork and ox beef derive a superior flavour. They are also given in small quantities to milch cows during the winter, thereby imparting to the milk and butter a richness which would not be obtained were the animal fed entirely upon dry fodder.

_Passports._--Persons about to take their departure for France must provide themselves with passports, which are obtained gratis at the Secretary's Office, Government-House, between the hours of ten and twelve o'clock.

_Peat_--In the Northern parts of the island is found in great abundance, and a load, which will go much further than a ton of coals, is sold at about 1l.[A] It is dug up on the sea shore and the adjacent marshes in the neighbourhood of Grande Roque, and is used by the English in that part of the island, the natives preferring vraic on account of the superior ashes which it yields. It is not so good as the Welsh peat; and is called in the vernacular tongue of the island _gorban_, or a god-send, a name given it by one of the ancestors of the present Baillif, who first discovered it as being a valuable article of fuel. At the Amballes, a place near town, and situated considerably above the level of the sea, peat was found when digging for the foundation of the gas-works, June 12, 1830, at about forty-five feet from the surface, under a block of granite.

[A] A correspondent of the _Horticultural Chronicle_ advises its being
mixed with coal, when it makes a fine cheerful fire, useful in
certain cookery, and were it not for the gas of the latter, would
be much more pleasant than wood.

_Peter-Port Church, St_;--Or, the Town Church, consists of a chancel, nave, North and South aisles, and North and South transepts, with a square tower at their intersection. It is of the later gothic style of France, termed the Flamboyant, and many of its portions are richly decorated within and without. An old stone pulpit, which was removed from its extremely mutilated state, was once one of the antique ornaments of the South pier of the chancel; and in the East end of the North aisle is a slab on which are three figures, the right and left being apparently ecclesiastics; but as the stone is so much worn by the attrition of time, it is difficult to decipher. In the East walls of the North and South ailes are most elegant piscing, the canopies of which are crocketed, finialed, and pinnacled, and the interior moulding of the arch and sides formed of crumpled leaves and creeping animals. The shelves consist of brackets of leaves, above which are two niches, square-headed and trefoiled. The mouldings and canopies of the North porch and West door are crocketed, finialed and pinnacled, and are deserving of considerable notice. In the South transept are octagonal pillars without capitals, so that the mouldings of the archivolt run into them, and in the East wall is a piscina cut in granite, ogee-headed and trefoiled with a shelf across it. The tower, which has a window in each side, is square and embattled, and is surmounted by a short octagonal spire, that was erected in the year 1721. At the angles of the tower and elsewhere, are line-course gurgoyles representing human figures, scutcheons and lions' heads and shoulders.

This church was consecrated on the 1st of August, 1312; and was the last of the ancient churches consecrated by a Roman Catholic Bishop in the island. It has a very handsome pulpit and reading-desk, and of late years the whole building has been renovated. It also contains a fine deep-toned organ, which originally cost between seven and eight hundred pounds, and which has since been removed to the North aisle, where it appears to considerable advantage. The tower has a clock, and a merry peal of eight bells, and its height from the vane to the ground is 132 feet, being the highest in the island. There are two French services and one in English every Sunday, and there are sittings for 1400 persons.

_Peter-in-the-Wood Church, St_--Has undergone less change than any other in the island, as the tracery of the windows still remain untouched, and the ornamental parts almost perfect. It has many Norman portions, and the windows in the North and South walls of the chancel are in that style, the inside walls being splayed and quite plain. It is built on the West side of a hill, which causes the chancel to rise several feet higher than the West end of the nave, insomuch that walking from the tower to the chancel is not unlike going up hill. The nave once contained a monumental brass plate representing a respectable personage or merchant, which from the cut of the stone appears to be about the year 1560. The consecration of this church took place in the year 1167.

_Pools_--At present, are few, and are chiefly in the marshy districts of the vale, and on Lancresse common; but as they are formed or rather considerably enlarged by the winter rains, are consequently void of fish. Heylin, chaplain to the Earl of Danby, says, in 1629: "Is a lake on the North-West part of the island, near unto the sea, of about a mile or more in compasse, exceedingly well stored with carpes, the best that ever mortal eye beheld, for taste and bignesse." This lake still assumes something of its original form throughout November, in spite of the innumerable and expensive efforts to drain it off. In summer it is dried up, but during the height of the inland water, it is still a great attraction for a variety of sea-fowl.[A]

[A] In my "Adversaria et Notitiæ Herbarum," for autumn, 1841, speaking
of this pool, I have:--"Waded through the water, and shot six
purres; ... in the middle of the pool, and on a large solitary
stone, covered with moss, picked up a Sandwich tern that had been
struck by a hawk." Memorandums about the same date record, that my
friend and relation Mr John Bellamy Henderson, surgeon, shot many
curious birds there, amongst which were dunlins, a lesser stint,
and a large sandpiper. In the winter season curlews show a great
preference for this inland water.

_Porters._--By an act of the Royal Court, for the better regulations of boatmen and porters, each passenger's effects are to be carried to the hotels and lodging houses in the lower town for six pence; any other imposition is fined by a penalty of 10 livres tournois. Every porter is to wear a brass badge on his left arm, and he is forbidden to touch the passengers' luggage or effects without their leave. He is to stand behind or along the walls of the pier until called for; under the penalty of suspension of his badge. No porter is to carry a second load of luggage until all the others present at the landing have each carried one in their turn, under a penalty of 10 livres tournois.

_Poultry_--Is almost wholly French, very little of native produce being brought to market. Turkeys sell from 3s. to 5s. each, fowls 2s. 6d. to 3s. per couple, geese 2s. to 2s. 6d. each, ducks nearly the same as fowls.

_Religions._--The Church of England is predominant; there being upwards of six places of worship in town, besides the country churches. The next are the Wesleyan Methodists, who have upwards of 1827 sittings. Ebenezer chapel, Saumarez-street, in English, is open on Sundays at half-past ten in the morning, and six in the evening; on Wednesdays and Fridays at seven in the evening. Le Marchant-street chapel in French, on Sundays at nine in the morning, and six in the evening; on Tuesdays and Thursdays at seven in the evening. Wesley chapel, Bouet, in French on Sundays at nine in the morning and six in the evening; on Tuesdays and Thursdays at seven in the evening. In English on Sundays at half-past two in the afternoon, and on Mondays at seven in the evening.

The Independents have three chapels, Eldad, Union-street; one in New-street, and another called Clifton Chapel; the whole of which contain sittings for about 1726 people. The service of the New-street chapel is in French, and on Sundays begins at half-past ten in the morning, and six in the evening; also on Wednesdays at seven in the evening. The service of Clifton Chapel is in English, and commences at half-past ten in the morning and at six in the evening on Sundays; on Tuesdays at seven in the evening. The Eldad Chapel, Union-street, is in English, and on Sundays commences at half-past ten in the morning, and half-past six in the evening; on Thursdays at seven in the evening.

The New Connexion have two chapels, Zion, in Clifton, and Hospital-lane preaching room. The service at Zion is in English, at half-past ten in the morning and six in the evening on Sundays; on Wednesdays and Fridays at seven in the evening. Preaching room in French on Sundays at ten in the morning and six in the evening, and on Thursdays at seven in the evening. These chapels contain sittings for about 748 people.

The Bryanites have a chapel called Salem, in Vauvert-road, which contains upwards of 380 sittings. The service is in English at half-past ten in the morning and six in the evening on Sundays. On Tuesdays and Thursdays at seven in the evening.

The Society of the original Foxonian Quakers have a meeting-house at Clifton. Friends meet on seventh days at ten in the morning and three in the afternoon throughout the winter, and at six in the summer. On fourth days at ten in the morning. There are about 120 sittings; but Friends are few, there being only about thirty members.

The Primitive Methodists, Catholics, Baptists and Unitarians have one each, and unitedly contain 930 sittings.

At the Roman Catholic chapel, Burnt-lane, high mass at half-past ten in the morning on Sundays;--preaching in English. Vespers, six in the evening.

Primitive Methodists. In Pollet-street in English on Sundays at half-past ten in the morning and six in the evening. On Tuesdays and Thursdays at seven in the evening.

Unitarians. Allez-street, New-Town, on Sundays at ten in the morning and six in the evening, in English.

Bethel Union. At the preaching room on the Quay, near the North Pier, at half-past ten in the morning, half-past two in the afternoon, and half-past six in the evening, in English;--on Thursdays at seven in the evening.

_Reptiles and Snakes_--Are not known in the island, neither will they exist on being introduced. Heylin, of old, speaking of Guernsey, says:--"The aire hereof is very healthfull, as may be well seen in the long lives both of men and women; and the earth said to be of the same nature with Crete and Ireland, not apt to foster any venomous creature in it." The only reptile of the snake genus is the slow-worm, and even that exceedingly rare.

_Rivers and Brooks._--Being confined to small streams, the student of good old Isaac Walton is denied the pleasure of fly-fishing. Night-lining in the pools and deep holes for eels is very frequent.

_Roads_--Are reckoned equal to any on the Continent, and are entirely exempt from turnpike tolls. It is only within the last half century good roads have been established, for which the public are indebted to the exertions and ingenuity of the late Sir John Doyle, while Governor of the island, notwithstanding he met with the most ignorant opposition from the country people or farmers, whose real interest it chiefly served; and which they now acknowledge to be the veins of the island, whereby they circulate the wealth and produce of their soil. In this excellent undertaking, which was the era of civilization in Guernsey, Government lent a hand, by allowing the money derived from the sale of the Braye du Valle to be applied for the same. At present, the roads are kept in repair by a rate on land proprietors bordering the main roads, and by grants of money from the States. The lanes that here and there intersect the island, may be said to be the old roads, and furnish the green-lane botanist with delightful, cooling, and shady walks throughout the heat of summer.

_Ruins_--Are not numerous, the chief being the old chapel of St Apoline, and the priory in the island of Lihou. The former is in the parish of St Saviour, amid a solitary and woody district, which has all the appearance of monastic seclusion. It is about seven and twenty feet long, by thirteen across, having a narrow square headed opening at the East end, and a rude segmental doorway, and a narrow window divided into two parts on the South side. The whole is covered with a ponderous vaulted roof of stones, and is the most ancient ruin in the island, being supposed to be built about the year 900. The sides of the walls and roof appear to have been once adorned with fresco paintings, as several figures of saints and the Virgin Mary are still discernible on the South ceiling. The silver-gilt chalice, belonging to this chapel, is one of the few relics of Romish times which the island possesses, and it is now in the custody of the present Baillif, John Guille, Esq., of St George. Round the bowl are the words "Sancte Paule ora pro nobis." From this it is supposed the chapel was originally called St Paul's, which by the attrition of time has worn itself into Apoline.

The priory on the little isle of Lihou, belonging to Mr James Priaulx, consists of little more than a few broken walls. Sufficient however remains to enable one to determine its different compartments, of which the chapel forms the principal portion.[A]

[A] During the last war, the Lieutenant-Governor supposing this chapel
might be turned into some use by the enemy, issued orders for its
complete demolition, which was effected by a barrel of gunpowder.
Lately a pavement of small green and red glazed Norman tiles have
been discovered, as also some silver monastic medals, and silver
pennies of Edward I.

_Sampson's Church, St_--Is evidently the most ancient structure in the island, being consecrated in the year 1111. It has been so affected by modern innovation and addition, that its original character is scarcely identified. The interior is plain and massive, and not a single ornamental moulding can be discovered. For some unknown purpose a squinch has been thrown over the North-East angle, of an arched arcade in the North wall of the North aisle. The tower is of the early English style, plain, roofed with stone, and situated over the North side of the nave, which appears to be an additional structure.

_Saviour's Church, St_--Consists of a nave, chancel, South aisle, and transept, and a lofty square tower, which rises at the West end of the nave. The East window of the South aisle is large and pointed, without mouldings, whilst those on the South side are small and segmental. The aisle has a buttress supporting one of its walls, which being united with that of the chancel, gives it the appearance of being built prior to it. The South transept is small, and the window considerably modernized. The piers of the nave are without capitals, some round and others octagonal. The tower is embattled, having pointed and square headed windows, and is surmounted by a short octagonal spire. The corner buttresses have flowers on their tops, and are two stages high. Besides this church, there is in St Saviour's parish two Methodists chapels built in 1820, an Independent one, opened in 1817, and one for Baptists.

_Servants._--As several shops keep a register of these, their characters and wages are easily obtained. Good maid servants get 9l. per annum; others from 5l. to 6l. do. Butlers, coachmen, &c., vary according to situation and character.

_Shells._--The conchologist has an ample field before him, and the little isle of Herm is so replete with them, as to be considered the first spot in the kingdom both as regards beauty and quantity.

_Shoes._--Notwithstanding leather is entirely exempt from duty, shoes cannot be said to be cheap, as they are from 8s. 6d. to 9s. per pair. At the shoe marts some of an inferior quality may be had from 3s. to 6s. Boots are in proportion.

_Shops, French Toy and Fancy._--One in High-street is exceedingly gaudy, being replete with the best fancy articles of Paris, and rich with specimens from "l'Industrie Nationale," &c. Many useful things can be procured there remarkably cheap, especially paper, perfumes, and ornaments.

_Shooting._--Heretofore, every person was allowed to carry a gun, and no protection granted for game; but now the Royal Court have enacted certain restrictions respecting guns, dogs and ferrets; but as they are exceedingly mild, it will not be amiss to mention there is excellent sport in snipe,[A] woodcock, plover,[B] fieldfare, and blackbird shooting; as during the winter months there is a great influx of these birds. So lenient indeed are the laws respecting shooting, that an informer cannot gratify any malicious view, unless he resign all damages awarded by the Court towards some charitable institution or purpose; moreover, it is believed shooting is encouraged for the purpose of initiating youth for the service of the rising militia. Shooting in an orchard is under a penalty of 20l., as it destroys the bud.

[A] In a memorandum dated October 31, 1842--"Went down to Grande Rocque
with my gun;--observed flocks of the red-legged crow at an
immeasurable height in the air. On alighting, they eagerly sought
small shells that covered the plains by myriads. Returning home
late in the evening, I heard, for the first time, at some altitude,
the cacephata attagenarum, or harsh sounds of a number of snipes. A
similar thing occurred in Jersey, therefore I take it for granted
that snipes generally visit these islands about this time." Again,
for June 9th of the present year, I have:--"Fair, but windy
day.--Went out to Woodlands, to fetch some arbutus wood for
engraving, where I was informed a bittern was shot in an adjoining
garden, by a man named Abraham Machon; also, that in severe
winters, among other birds driven here, are wild swans; that a few
years since, several of these birds lodged on some rocks in the
Valle, and were so exhausted as to suffer themselves to be taken by
the hand, of which two were exhibited in the Market and fetched 10
shillings each.

[B] Besides the plover, we have the occasional influx of a a number of
pewits, and as proof that the flocks are not small, Mr Henry Le
Lacheur, jun., of the Forest, killed nine at one shot, during the
severe frost of 1837.

_Societies, Bible._--The British and Foreign Bible Society, established 1812--contributions 420l. Guernsey Auxiliary to the Trinitarian Bible Society, established 1836--contributions 48l. Ladies' Association to ditto, established 1831--contributions 85l.

_Spirits, Wines, and Cordials._--The best Cognac brandy is always imported from France, and is never less than 6s. or more than 7s. per gallon. Inferior brandies distilled from beet-root, potatoes, or apples, may be obtained from 2s. 6d. to 4s. per gallon, and rises in quality according to price. The best hollands is 3s. 4d. and the best Jamaica rum 4s. 4d. per gallon. Liqueurs and cordials are equally moderate; crême de noyau, noyau rouge, crême de fine orange, ditto de citron, ditto de framboise, ditto des Barbades, ditto de canelle, &c., are all 3s. per bottle, and we may add as somewhat less, parfait amour, Jamaica shrub, ratafia de cinq fruits, and curaçoa double, which latter article may be had for 1s. 8d.

The prices of wines are as follow: best port, 25s. per dozen; best sherry, 22s. ditto; fine malmsey, 28s.; ampurdam, 8s.; benicarlo, 8s.; hock, 15s. to 38s.; mountain, 8s. 6d. to 12s.; Teneriffe, 11s.; Syracuse, 24s.; Constantia (pints), 12s.; Calcavala, 12s.; Bucellas, 10s.; Vidonia, 18s.; Grenache, 8s. 6d.

French red wines (clarets)--Château Margaux (pints), 18s.; La Fitte, 36s.; Léoville, 28s.; La Tour de Carnet, 24s.; St Julien, 18s.; St Emilion, 15s.; Medoc, 12s. French white wines--Champaign (white and pink), 50s.; in pints, 26s.; burgundy (sparkling), 24s.; hermitage, 36s.; château grillé, 18s.; haut sauterne, 24s.; Barsac, 24s.; grave, 10s. to 15s.; roussillon sec, 8s. 6d.; rancio, 12s.; picardan (sec), 18s.; cornas, 15s.; crosse, 18s.; tavel, 10s., together with numerous others. There is 1s. 6d. per dozen allowed on the above when the bottles are returned, as they have been included.

_States_--Are of two kinds, the administrative and elective. The administrative States are composed of the Baillif and twelve Jurats, eight Rectors from the parishes, the Attorney-General, six deputies from the town parish, and nine from the rural parishes, in all thirty-seven members. The States of election are composed as above, with the addition of the Constables and Douzeniers of each parish. The town parish alone sends forty-eight members; formerly it only returned twenty-four. This body corporate is the little parliament of the island, and every inhabitant is supposed to be represented therein. They are convened by a printed notice, called a _Billet d'Etat_, issued by the Baillif, and communicated to every and each of the members at least a week before the time of meeting.

_Taxes_--Are not levied on strangers, unless they become proprietors of land or enter into some business. The tax or rate on the native is about one-ninth that of England; for a more curious detail of which, the reader is referred to the History of Guernsey, by Jonathan Duncan.

_Thieves_--Until of late years were totally unknown here, and but for the continued vigilance of the present constabulary force would be considerably on the increase. Strange to relate, hardly ever a native is caught committing the slightest depredation on his neighbours; convicted rogues and thieves being, for the most part, from Somerset and Dorset,[A] especially the latter. Formerly, from the leniency of the law, they were merely banished to the place from whence they came; but now, from a better understanding of the rights of society, they are sent to the hulks of their own country, waiting a further removal to Van Dieman's Land.

[A] It appears that starvation, want of food, raiment, and depression
of wages are the chief causes that drive these labourers and
wretched mendicants to the Channel Isles; for, according to an
article--"The Labourers of Dorsetshire"--in Lloyd's weekly London
newspaper for March 19th of the present year, it appears by a
respectable reporter of the Corn League, that for starvation,
abject want, total ignorance, depravity, and lowness of wages and
raiment, that that county exceeded every thing on record. According
to a letter in the "Morning Chronicle," the reporter of the League
was strictly enjoined to keep at some distance within the base of
truth, that there might be no room for contradiction, and to that
rule he rigidly adhered; nevertheless, it appears the poor people
never taste tea, coffee, nor sugar;--animal food five or six times
in the year, and beer the same. Those who live near the sea,
chiefly exist upon turnip tops, and because they have no money to
procure salt, boil them in sea water.

_Tithes_--Yield but a slender income to the Clergy, in consequence of the great breadth of potatoes under cultivation, on which the farmer is exempt; but the rectors have had, of late years, an increase of income taken from the revenues belonging to the Crown in this island, so that all the livings of the country parishes are not less than 101l. nor more than 166l. per annum. St Peter-Port, on account of its casualities, yields 480l. per annum. Tithes are fixed on the twelfth and ninth portion of corn and apples.

_Tonnage Dues._--English vessels not registered in Guernsey, pay 6d. per ton on all goods landed and loaded; but when from a French port 6d. per ton on the tonnage of the vessel. Foreign vessels pay the same, measured as British tonnage. Fishing vessels and yachts are exempt, but pay the pass on leaving the harbour. Vessels exporting coals are exempt; but those landing wines, whether for the inhabitants or on strangers' account, pay a duty of fifteen sous per ton.

_Torteval Church_--Is comparatively new, the old one having been pulled down in the year 1815. The tower and spire of this church are round, like a sugar-loaf, and of considerable height; and the ascent to the top by a kind of cork-screw flight of steps. The interior affords room for a much larger congregation than the parish now produces. The pulpit is erected under a dome or arch in the centre of the chancel, immediately opposite the communion table, and is said to impart a strange tone to the clergyman's voice.

The old church of which the engraving at page 85, represents, had a nave, chancel, South aisle, porch, and low, square tower, pinnacled and surmounted by an octagonal spire at the West end of the nave. It was built by Sir Phillip De Carteret, in the year 1140, in consequence of a vow made at sea. Sir Phillip was the son of Sir William De Carteret, co-Lord with the King of France of the barony of Carteret in Normandy.

_Trees_--Most commonly met with are, the Guernsey elm, oak, ash, and poplar, with a sprinkling here and there of Turkey oak. The Guernsey elm, which is a tall, poplar-like tree, is peculiar to the soil, and may be seen beautifying almost every sylvan district. The New Ground or parade, is almost wholly circumgirt with this fine forest tree, which, in connexion with Carey Castle, is an object of much attraction when seen from the roads; insomuch that the latter has the appearance of a noble mansion in the midst of a large and thickly wooded park. Contrary to England and most other countries, the trees in various districts are stunted down to pollard fashion, of which the annexed engraving is a faithful representation, after the first year.

_Valle Church, the_--For antiquity, is the second church in the island, and is dedicated to St Michael the Archangel. It has undergone a complete modernization, and a new roof has just now been put up. A monumental brass was once inlaid in a stone situate in the East end of the North aisle, which was supposed to represent the Abbot of St Michael. The chancel which forms the original church, is said to be of a later Norman style than that of St Sampson's, and there is still preserved its consecration, which happened in the year 1117. The pillars are round, and the supporters of the fabricated roof are wrought with a kind of zig-zag moulding. The East window of the North aisle, if examined narrowly, exhibits a kind of fret-work, and is divided into three lights.

_Vergée._--A measure of ground, two and a half of which complete an English acre. A vergée lets from 1l. to 6l. per annum, and may be purchased from 20l. to 100l.; but the purchaser may either pay the whole or in part, when the remainder stands over as mortgage, which is divided into quarters and called "rents."

_Vraic_--Is sea-weed, and is eagerly sought after by the farmers, both as fuel and manure for their grounds, than which, they uphold nothing can be better. The ashes, as a manure, are certainly unrivalled, and so appreciated are their value, that "no sea-weed, no corn," has passed into a proverb. They are sold at about 1s. 6d. the Guernsey bushel.

_Weights and Measures._--The pound is two ounces more than the English; thus, twenty-eight ounces Guernsey, are thirty and a half avoirdupois. The weights at the meat-market are under the direction of the States. They are of solid brass, beautifully bright, with their numbers engraved on them, and are locked up every night by the clerk of the market. Defalcations of weight in meat, butter, or bread, is punished with a heavy penalty, and if among the butter women, the whole of their stock is seized by the constable whose duty it is to investigate the matter, and confiscate it for the benefit of the town hospital.

_Wheat, Oats, and Barley._--The red wheat is preferred on account of its producing heavier crops, and being less subject to the ravages of small birds, which are very numerous here, especially sparrows. Wheat, during the last twenty years, has been about two-thirds of the price at which it has been sold in England. In the summer of 1830, wheat was twenty shillings per quarter, Guernsey measure; whilst the price in England at the same time was sixty or seventy shillings per quarter. At one time, the rigorous corn-law was about to be extended here; but the inhabitants bestired themselves, and succeeded in warding off the terrible blow, for which they were greatly indebted to the exertions of the late venerable Baillif.

Barley generally follows wheat, and is considered by agriculturists of an excellent quality, so much so, that when Quail wrote, one would have thought that it was chiefly used for bread. It is sold to the brewers for malting, at 3s. the Guernsey bushel, (56 lbs. English.)

Oats and rye are not much grown, as they are obtained on the Continent much cheaper than they can be raised, and in respect to the keeping of a horse are much more reasonable than in England.

_Wood for firing._--In the country, may be obtained at the following prices: liberal sized faggots, consisting of ash, elm, or apple tree, fetch from 18s. to 1l. per hundred. Should a still greater moderation of price be regarded, old ship planks in the neighbourhood of the pier may be had. Norwegian and Swedish deals, twelve feet long, nine inches broad, and three inches thick, are sold for 2s. and 2s. 6d. each, or 15l. per 120, as there is no duty on them, or any other kind of timber.

THE STRANGER'S GUIDE;

OR,

WALK ROUND THE ISLAND.

The first thing that a stranger, on landing, seeks, is rest and quietude; for which purpose, he generally locates himself at one or other of the hotels. Ordering dinner, he prepares an appetite by a walk in and about the town, which he will find to be a quiet, though thriving place, with good handsome shops. He may be arrested by the town church, which is as handsome a structure as any in England; and in many of its portions displays some cunning specimens of the ancient chisel. Should he be thinking of becoming a resident, he may probably stroll into the shambles, the fruit and poultry markets, and from thence to that splendid area the fish-market, where doubtless, if the slabs are in the same condition as in the earlier part of the morning, he will exclaim: "Well, this beats any thing of the kind I have ever seen!" On deliberating on the building and its vast supply, he will put us down as a fish-eating people, unless by enquiry he finds that vast quantities are exported. Having communed within himself on the various markets, he will not be a little amused with the fantastic head-dresses of the Norman women.