Chapter I: Preface

The expectations which have been excited in the minds of men by the prophecies contained in Scripture, and the hopes which have been roused by them, have ever invested Palestine with an exceptional interest to Biblical students; while its sacred conditions, historical associations, and existing remains prove an attraction to crowds of pilgrims and tourists, who annually flock to the Holy Land. As, however, the impressions of a resident and those of a visitor are apt to differ widely in regard to the conditions which actually exist there, and the former has opportunities of researches denied to the latter, I have ventured to think that a series of letters originally addressed to the New York ‘Sun,’ and extending over a period of three years passed in the country, might not be without interest to the general reader. Many of these will be found to deal chiefly with archæological subjects, which must, indeed, form the main subject of attraction to any one living in the country, and conversant with its history.

A flood of light has been thrown of recent years upon its topography, its ancient sites, and the extensive ruins which still exist to testify to its once teeming population, by the prolonged and valuable researches of the “Palestine Exploration Fund” of London.

As, however, these are embodied in volumes so expensive that they are beyond the reach of the general public, and are too technical in their character to suit the taste of the ordinary reader, I have in many instances endeavoured to popularise them, availing myself extensively of the information contained in them and in Captain Conder's excellent ‘Tent Work in Palestine,’ and quoting freely such passages as tended to the elucidation of the subject under consideration, more especially with regard to recent discovery at Jerusalem; but which, as I was grubbing about, I have not been able to define as exactly as I should have liked to do had all the publications been beside me at the moment.

The experience and investigation of the last three years, however, have only served to convince me that the field of research is far from being exhausted, and that, should the day ever come when excavation on a large scale is possible, the Holy Land will yield treasures of infinite interest and value, alike to the archæologist and the historian.

HAIFA, 1886.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
INTRODUCTION vii
A VISIT TO EPHESUS 1
THE RUINS OF ATHLIT 6
A JEWISH COLONY IN ITS INFANCY 11
THE TEMPLE SOCIETY 17
THE TEMPLE COLONIES IN PALESTINE 22
EXPLORING MOUNT CARMEL 27
THE VALLEY OF THE MARTYRS 33
THE ROCK-HEWN CEMETERY OF SHEIK ABREIK 38
EASTER AMONG THE MELCHITES 43
THE JEWISH QUESTION IN PALESTINE 48
“HOLY PLACES” IN GALILEE 53
PROGRESS IN PALESTINE 59
THE FIRST PALESTINE RAILWAY 63
SAFED 68
MEIRON 72
THE FEAST OF ST. ELIAS 77
A SUMMER CAMP ON CARMEL 82
THE DRUSES OF MOUNT CARMEL 87
EXPLORATION ON CARMEL 93
A PLACE FAMOUS IN HISTORY 98
THE BABS AND THEIR PROPHET 103
AN ANCIENT JEWISH COMMUNITY 108
DOMESTIC LIFE AMONG THE SYRIANS 114
FISHING ON LAKE TIBERIAS 119
A VISIT TO THE SULPHUR SPRINGS OF AMATHA 125
EXPLORATION OF THE VALLEY OF THE YARMUK 130
EXPLORATION ON THE YARMUK 135
A DRUSE RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL 139
THE GREAT FESTIVAL OF THE DRUSES 145
HATTIN AND IRBID 152
THE JEWISH FEAST OF THE BURNING AT TIBERIAS 157
HOUSE-BUILDING ON CARMEL 162
DOMESTIC LIFE AMONG THE DRUSES 168
CIRCASSIAN HIGHWAYMEN.—A DRUSE FESTIVAL AT ELIJAH'S ALTAR 173
ARMAGEDDON.—THE BOSNIAN COLONY AT CÆSAREA 178
CÆSAREA 186
VILLAGE FEUDS 192
THE ARISTOCRACY OF MOUNT CARMEL 198
THE JORDAN VALLEY CANAL 204
LOCAL POLITICS AND PROGRESS 208
THE IDENTIFICATION OF ANCIENT SITES 213
THE SEA OF GALILEE IN THE TIME OF CHRIST 218
THE SCENE OF THE MIRACLE OF THE FIVE LOAVES AND TWO SMALL FISHES 223
CAPERNAUM AND CHORAZIN 228
DISCOVERY OF AN ANCIENT SYNAGOGUE 233
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE RUINS OF SYNAGOGUES 239
A NIGHT ADVENTURE NEAR THE LAKE OF TIBERIAS 244
KHISFIN 250
FURTHER EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY 256
THE PLACE WHERE THE SAVIOUR SENT THE EVIL SPIRITS INTO THE HERD
OF SWINE 262
THE ROCK TOMBS OF PALESTINE 268
GENERAL GORDON'S LAST VISIT TO HAIFA 274
THE CONVENT OF CARMEL _versus_ THE TOWN OF HAIFA 281
PROGRESS EVEN IN PALESTINE 285
THE RECENT DISCOVERY OF GEZER 290
TRADITIONAL SITES AT JERUSALEM 296
TRADITIONAL SITES AT JERUSALEM.—_Continued_ 303
PROGRESS IN JERUSALEM 309
THE THREE JERICHOS 319
MODERN LIFE IN PALESTINE 325
RAMBLES IN PALESTINE 332
EXPLORATIONS IN PALESTINE 339
SACRED SAMARITAN RECORDS 345
THE TEN LOST TRIBES 352
RESEARCHES IN SAMARIA 358
A DRUSE FATHER'S VENGEANCE 364