Chapter II: Part 2

Wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely exclude the wind. Using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length required. Bind off loosely.

With bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles; after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the next.

Having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are filled. A very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color, making a double in each treble. With fine wool, crochet-silk may be prettily used for this finish.

A fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up.

Motor-Scarf

This motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of Shetland floss. Use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink.

1, 3. Purl.

2. Knit plain.

4. Knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3.

5. Purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops.

6. Knit plain.

7, 9. With white, purl.

8, 10. Knit plain.

Repeat until the scarf is of the length required. The sides are finished with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1 double.

Finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of 10 threads each of pink and white.

Sport Scarf

A very attractive scarf uses brown Shetland as a body color, with deep cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes. Using No. 3½ or No. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. Reverse from *, making the other end of scarf as directed for first half.

For the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand in each stitch.

For a lighter scarf use No. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50 stitches. The larger needles with loose knitting will give work much more open. If desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead of the colored stripes. In fact, having made one scarf, the worker will find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a pleasing study.

Many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the Shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen.

Scarf in Lattice-Stitch

Using Shetland floss and No. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over.

Knit back and forth 6 times.

7. Knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch.

8. Knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. Take care the long stitches are not twisted.

9. 10, 11. Knit plain.

Repeat from 7th row.

Gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a bow of ribbon, as preferred.

Knitting for the Red Cross

(Official Red Cross Photographs)

Sleeveless Sweater

Three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a pair of amber needles No. 5, or No. 3 Red Cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure two inches. Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. Knit 28 stitches. Knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. Sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes. Two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet around armholes.

Washcloth

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10 inches square, and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.

Service Sock

A service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs, with No. 11 steel needles. Cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches.

Knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit plain to end of round. Continue knitting plain and purling the seam stitch for four inches.

Knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. Repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th round, 4 times. Now knit without decreasing for one inch.

For the heel: Place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch, and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. To turn the heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow. Proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel.

Knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: On 1st side needle knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit to end. Decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15 stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep.

Knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the following manner: Knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to the end. Knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches on the front needle. Finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle.

One-Piece Helmet

One hank of yarn (¼ pound); Red Cross needles No. 2.

Cast on 56 stitches loosely. Knit plain for 8 inches for front piece, and leave on extra needle. Knit another piece to correspond for back. These pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. Slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added (making 40 on 1st needle).

Divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36.

Beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. Then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. Bind off 22 stitches for face opening. (Try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for further directions.) Knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. Cast on 22 stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½ inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st needle, making 42 on 1st needle).

Knit 1 round plain. Knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. Divide on 2 needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other.

Break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted-needle and proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:

* Pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are off the needle.

Muffler

Two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles No. 5, or Red Cross needles No. 3 will be required. Cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches in length.

Hot-Water-Bottle Cover

White knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair Red Cross needles No. 1.

Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or until entire work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing to tie around neck of bottle.

Helmet Made in Two Parts

One hank of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair Red Cross Needles No. 2.

The helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together.

FRONT OF HELMET.--Cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25 ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. On the next row the opening for the face is made as follows: Knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. Run the stitches before the opening on a spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. The last row will end at the opening, and at that point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. Begin at the face opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. At the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle, when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. Knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows.

TOP OF HELMET.--Knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14, narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. Purl the entire next row. On the 3d row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. Purl 4th row. On the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 10. Purl 6th row. Continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are left.

BACK OF HELMET.--Work in same manner as for front but omit the face opening. Sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch. Sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open.

Thumbless Mitt or Wristlet

The thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn, gray, with No. 2 Red Cross needles or No. 11 or No. 12 steel needles. Nine stitches measure one inch. Cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two inches in length, three inches from one end. The ordinary wristlets or pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8½ inches long, and sewed up with no thumb-opening.

Wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone needles No. 3, or steel needles No. 12. Cast on 52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "Third" needle, turn; knit and purl back to end of "First" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. Continue knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely; buttonhole thumb-opening.

Bed-Sock

One hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with Red Cross needles No. 2 or steel needles No. 11 or 12.

Cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. Knit plain and loosely for 20 inches. Decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each other. Break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for finishing one-piece helmet.

Child's Drawers-Leggings Knitted

Materials required are six hanks of Germantown wool, a pair of bone needles No. 4, and a pair of steel needles, No. 15.

Cast on 68 stitches.

1 to 16. Knit 2, purl 2; repeat. This is the double rib.

17. Knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn.

18. Knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches.

Continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle. Knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. This brings 6 ridges at one side of the work. Now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches.

Continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you have 50 stitches remaining on the needle.

Do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of ankle, thus:

1. Knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn.

2. Knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn.

3. Knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 7.

Repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as directed in 1st row, every 6th row.

For the instep: Count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8 ridges. Pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off.

Make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by the middle seam.

Around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings, thus:

1. Fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat around, and join to 3d of 5 chain.

2. Miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next; repeat.

Crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels.

A Knitted Hood for Miss Dolly

Using blue Saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. This is for the front or turnover of the hood.

Next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which to run ribbon.

Now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to give a good selvage.

Bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the ribs the same.

Knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described. Widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. Knit same number of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near extreme end of crown.

Pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts, about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at lower edge of front.

Sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon.

By adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted.

A Lesson in Crochet

The stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use, and were taught the writer by an English teacher of crocheting, herself a professional in the art. In some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is called treble, and so on.

There are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. The following instructions were given by the English teacher in question, and are those commonly accepted: Hold the needle in the right hand very much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. Hold nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of that hand to so much as rest on the work. Hold work with thumb and second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the third and under the little finger. These instructions are especially good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and fluffy as possible.

THE CHAIN. (Figure 1.) Make a loop of thread around the needle, take up the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness. After a little practise one does this without thought. When abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch.

THE SLIP-STITCH is properly a close joining stitch: Drop the stitch on the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close fastening. This stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is more often employed for this. The abbreviation is sl-st.

SINGLE CROCHET (Figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch) is made thus: Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on the needle at the same time. The abbreviation is s c.

DOUBLE CROCHET. (Figure 3). Having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. The abbreviation is d c. There are many variations of the double-crochet stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. A quite different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops.

TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 4.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. The abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. It will be noted that the single crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which these stitches take their names.

HALF-TREBLE OR SHORT-TREBLE CROCHET. Like treble to *; then take up thread and draw through all three stitches at once.

DOUBLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 6.) Having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. The abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c.

TRIPLE-TREBLE CROCHET. (Figure 7.) Take up thread three times, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. The abbreviation is t t c.

One sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work), quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. In turning, one chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw."

PARENTHESES () AND ASTERISKS OR STARS * * are used to prevent the necessity of repetition and save space. They indicate repeats of like directions. Thus: (Chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice.

The worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. It should be well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without catching in and roughening it. If too large, on the other hand, the work is apt to be sleazy. Needles that have been used for some time work more easily than new ones. If all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule given is the best that can be.

Crocheted Jacket

One color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced during summer outings. Six skeins of fourfold Germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body and two of white for the border, if made in two colors.

Make a chain of 54 stitches, turn.

1. Miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn.

2. Chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn.

Repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the back, bringing the work to the shoulder.

Now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have made 4 rows.

In the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the front is of the same length as the back.

Leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the other front to correspond.

For the border: Commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used) at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar.

Make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows, widening the same stitches at corners each time.

Fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together. Commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. Work from underarm around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket.

For the picot edge: Two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot; repeat.

The stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch may be used that is liked. Among others may be named Lancaster-stitch, made as follows: Having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn.

1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn.

2. Chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, * chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *; turn.

3. A double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last row started. Repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern.

The bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: Having a chain of desired length, turn.

1. Miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn.

2. A double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row.

Still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as follows: Chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn.

1. Miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn.

2. Chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn.

3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in 3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through 2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat from * to end of row, turn.

4. Same as 2d row.

5. Chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1, a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. Repeat 4th and 5th rows.

And another still: Make a chain of length required, turn.

1. Miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch, repeat to end of row, turn.

2. Chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row; repeat. Repeat 2d row.

Tam-o'-Shanter in Double Crochet

For the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and a ball of gray Angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn easily.

Make a chain of 3 stitches, join.

1. Seven doubles in ring.

2. Two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch.

3. A double in double, 2 in next; repeat.

4. A double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.

5. A double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat.

Continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a larger crown is desired.

33. A double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

34. A double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

35. A double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat.

36 to 45. A double in each stitch.

46, 47. With gray Angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten off the last row neatly.

Cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: Make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. Continue to work around and around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed.

For the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet, or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: Take a length of the Angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may "take up" more rapidly than anticipated. Make a slip or half knot at one end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop, then tie the ends of the yarn together. Hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. Now the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in the right. Continue by passing forefinger of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning. This is really a sort of double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord.

Sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is completed.

Ladies' Sleeveless Jacket or Hug-Me-Tight

Use Germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn smoothly. Commence with a chain of 140 stitches, turn.

1. Miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn.

2. Chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3 trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2 chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. Work always in back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect.

3 to 23. Same as 2d row. The jacket is now ready for joining.

Commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. This will leave about 65 stitches for armscye.

For the border:

1. Shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2; repeat. Commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to that.

2. Shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous row, and treble in treble; repeat.

3. Chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2 trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single treble; repeat.

Work around the armscye in same way.

Child's Coat Sweater

Use Germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. The sweater is crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back.

Make a chain of 160 stitches, turn.

1. A double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn.

2. A double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a rib.

3. Make star-stitches along the rib, thus: Chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made (under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row, turn.

Make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs; on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star-stitches each. Work a row of doubles, break and fasten the wool securely. Bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row.

Beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches (equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as directed. Work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving 1 star less at the top or neck-end each time.

Work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. If carefully done the joining will not be discernible. Join under arms, also, leaving the opening for armholes.

For the border: Work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch, around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of the lower corners in each row to form the miter. Or, if preferred, work around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work around the bottom and across the front border. The widening for miter is neater. The buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss 5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances. In working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain.

For the sleeve: Chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. Repeat until there are 10 rows of star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are worked on the right side always. Join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side with single crochet, as you did the back.

For the cuff: Work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch and turn back. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the buttonholes.

This sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep the proportion. The combination of stitches is a most attractive one.

Child's Jacket

Materials required are three skeins of cream-white Saxony and one skein of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn smoothly.

Make a chain of 78 stitches.

1. On the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen) twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. Break and fasten wool, and fasten in again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right side. Or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st row.

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. Same as 1st row, except that you widen only every other row, and always exactly in the center. Keep 8 stars on each front, thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings.

9. Make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back, continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across front again.

10. Same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm.

11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Same as 10th row, widening only in center of back every other row, as at first. This completes the body of the jacket.

21. Commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. At the corner make 2 stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first.

22. Stars all around, of color.

23. Fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2 trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly.

24. With color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2 trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners.

25. Same as 24th row, with white wool.

26. Across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in which to run cord or ribbon.

27. Also with white, make 2 trebles in every space.

28. With color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row.

29. Like 28th row, with white. This completes the collar.

30. Fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten off neatly.

For the sleeve:

1. Fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain under the arm.

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. Same as 1st row, making star over star of previous row, and joining underneath the arm.

12. With color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making only 12 stars in the round.

13. With the color, make star in star.

14. Using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star.

15, 16, 17. Same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border.

This makes a dainty, soft little garment. If one likes, treble stitch may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding stitch.

Run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both white and color, in the spaces around the neck.

Girl's Jacket

Materials required are 12 skeins of gray Germantown yarn and 1 skein of blue. Make a chain of 52 stitches.

1. A double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next; repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn.

2. Chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop; repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn.

3. Chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next; repeat to end of row.

Repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all, alternating with rows of loops. Divide the width into three parts, 4 blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. Work same as 3d row until you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back same as 3d row. Repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen, make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue across. The next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of 5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. Make the other front in exactly the same way.

For the border:

1. Fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks.

2. Fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described, fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles.

Make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue.

For the sleeve: Fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder, in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join, and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops.

For the cuff: Leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the 3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of blocks. Fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops; make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue chain-loops.

For the collar: Fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 blocks. Follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs, widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2 consecutive loops in outer row. Join at beginning and end of each row to upper edge of jacket-border.

Finish with a border of loops, as follows: A double between blocks, (chain 3, a double in same place) twice. Crochet a chain of the blue yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops as for the edge, and tying in a bow. Make a shorter chain for each cuff, lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. A similar chain is used to draw in the neck.

Any preferred colors may, of course, be used. The jacket can be easily made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white Saxony for a baby.

Babies' Jacket

Materials required are three skeins of Saxony yarn, one spool silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards of No. 1 ribbon. Use a hook which will carry the yarn easily.

Make a chain of 100 stitches, turn.

1. Miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing up to about five-eighths of an inch. Break and fasten wool (this so the work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the effect is not so good).

2. Fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross; repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the end where you began.

3. Make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you to end of row. The 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 on each cross and 1 between.

4. Same as 2d row, 38 crosses.

5. Make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21 plain.

6. Forty-eight crosses.

7. Make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24 plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain.

8. Fifty-eight crosses.

9. Make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain.

10. Thirty-six crosses.

11. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6 crosses at center of back.

12. Forty crosses.

13. Plain, with 6 extra in back.

14. Forty-two crosses.

15. Like 13th row.

16. Forty-four crosses.

17. Like 13th row.

18. Forty-six crosses.

19. Plain, without widening in the back.

Around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, and repeat. Now make a row of crosses entirely around the jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk, making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain 2, and repeat.

For the sleeves:

1. Make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses.

2. Fourteen crosses.

3. Plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all.

4. Fifteen crosses.

5. Same as 3d row, making 48 trebles.

6. Sixteen crosses.

7. Same as 3d row, making 51 trebles.

8. Seventeen crosses.

9. Same as 3d row, making 54 trebles.

Finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket. Run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow on top.

Baby's Shoes in Crochet

These little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or delicate color, or of wool. They are very firm and neat, and shaped to the foot. The sample pair was made of No. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same directions.

Commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches.

1. Miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1 in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join.

2. A double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join.

3. Chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join.

4. Same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings.

5. Chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at back of heel.

6. Chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel.