Chapter II: Part 2

Lay a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward, and connect it by a curve from 4 to 24.

Go in from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to 5, but be careful to commence to separate side-body only 1½ inch below 17. Lay a straight-edge, as before, at 17, and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23.

From 17 to 18 may be only 1½ or 2 inches, according to the size—2 inches will be sufficient for a 36 breast.

Draw a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form. Again, lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 6, and mark along it from the hips downward; curve from 6 to hip.

Commencing at 18, curve the front to 7, taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 7 mark along it below the hips and finish the curve from 7 to 25.

To produce the front, place from K to P one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, also the same from K to 16. From P to B draw a line, then place the same distance as on the back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to P to produce point 15, or the length of front shoulder, curve it above this line, and at 15 drop it one-half inch below. At 15 curve the arm-hole to H, going outside of the line enough to give the arm-hole a good shape, but under no consideration go beyond point H—rather go inside.

Curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of 16, and outside at J one-half inch, and coming back to R, where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at S.

Add beyond last curve 1 inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket, all the way down.

Measure from 14 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, and 7 to R, which will be about 15 inches; but as the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24, we must take out the difference in a dart, which is 3 inches. Divide the space between H and J which gives point I, and from this draw a straight line down. Go down from I 2 inches to 17. On each side of the line at 9 place one-half of the dart, 1½ inch, then curve from 17 to 8, 27 and 35; also from the same point to 10, 28 and 36. At the bottom it should be three-fourths inch.

The bottom of the first side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back; the second the same length as the first; and the front must start at the same length as the second, and curve forward 1 inch below line 33 to 37.

FIG. 17. SHORT JACKET.

This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape. As regards the darts all points are the same as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in two side-bodies we only cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required to make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket.

The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go with this.

FIG. 18. JERSEY BLOUSE.

Draw line O-J and O-F. From O to D is one-fourth of breast. From O to 20 is three-fourths inch. From O to D take one-half the distance to get point B, and in the centre, between B and D, is point C. From 20 to E is length of back and to F the full length.

Go in from E 1½ inch and draw the back-line from 20 to 1½ and to F. From O is 2 inches for top of back to 2. From D is one-third of breast and 1 inch to G. Draw a line up from G to 6. From 6 draw one to 2 and curve 1 inch above it at 1.

Curve arm-hole from 1 through 9 to 10. From G to H is one-fourth of breast—4½ inches on a 36 breast. Draw a line up. From back, near D, to K is one-half of breast. Draw line up and down. From J back to I is one-sixth of breast, and the same down to 3.

From I to 6 draw a line. Curve above line at 18 one-half inch for front shoulder, and curve the arm-hole from 18 to 17, and H to 10. Point 10 is about 1½ inch from G.

Make the width of back 5½ inches from 1½ and 9½ inches to point 10, and 10 inches at bottom. Then curve the side-seam at 10 to 5½ and U. From N, at front of the waist, go in 3 inches, to 16 4½ inches, and to 4 6 inches.

Draw a straight line up and down through 16, and form the dart, from 20, through 3 and 4, to 5 and 6.

Lay the back on the front to meet at 10, 5½ on V, 8 on U, to get the right curve for the side seam.

Measure the waist and make the distance at V to correspond with it. Using I as pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front.

Add one-half inch button-stand, and 1 inch on the side the buttons are sewed on. Buttons should be 1 inch apart.

The Jersey is finished with standing collar.

This pattern is intended only for goods which are elastic—like stockinet or tweed.

The seams in the dart and at side should be stretched somewhat in pressing, thus allowing them to fit closer to the form.

FIG. 19. GIRL’S SACK.

This is a sack for a young girl of size 31 breast, close-fitting. The figure illustrates a very jaunty and comfortable jacket.

For the Fall Season it should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish is obtained by binding it with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid.

It has eight buttons in front, is cut single-breasted, with a very small turn-over lapel, which allows it to be buttoned up close to the neck.

A side edge is imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put on it.

The full-size pattern may be cut by following the Figure, as represented, using inches for every number marked out.

In order that this may be readily understood we will go over this manner of doing it again, so that our readers who desire to take them off may not make any mistakes.

First draw a line on the edge of paper, and draw out the back first, by fixing a point at the top.

O is the starting point. From O go down in inches as indicated by the points marked ¾, 2¾, 5¾, 13, 20 and 34.

Draw lines across from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these lines. When all these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the outlines of the back.

For the side-body use the same process and you will have the full size. It can be made double-breasted by adding 1½ inch in front of the breast all the way down.

FIG. 20. BRAIDED JACKET.

This Figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for Spring wear. They are made single-breasted, having the buttons close together, and have the appearance of a Jersey. The same may be made double-breasted by the addition of 2 inches to the front. In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding.

The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 36 breast, 25 waist; the length may be regulated to taste. In drafting this pattern use inches for all the figures on the draft.

FIG. 21. DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET.

This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket. The front is double-breasted towards the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button is used.

In order to enlarge the draft to full size, which is a 36 inch breast-measure, use inches for all the figures on the draft.

The jacket itself is finished at the neck with a collar, which is put on to the cape. The front, at the neck, is held together by an agraffe ornament. This garment, as it should appear, may be seen by the illustration.

FIG. 22. LADY’S JACKET.

These drafts illustrate a new style of lady’s jacket, which will be acceptable to many for street wear. The style and general effect at once denote the character of the garment. The jacket is well adapted for outdoor wear. It is made with a moderate addition for double-breasted added on to the fore-part, and the button holes are worked in close together, as the buttons now used are so very small; therefore, on this jacket, they are placed only one inch apart.

The waist is medium length, and the skirt can be made to suit the height of the lady. A lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close together.

The pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket, or only a flap put on, leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening. In the latter case it can be ornamented with buttons. Pockets, however, are only put in when it is cut longer than Figure.

The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be regulated in width by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible.

The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running them to a point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom. Cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. It must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam. The sudden rise of a lady’s hip, and the marked difference between the size of the waist and of the body but a few inches below, make it extremely difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom for the prominence of the figure at this part of the body.

The bottom edge of this jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk, which is held on tight so that the edge may cling close to the dress-skirt.

The collar is cut like a coat-collar and the lapel rolls short. A narrow binding one-half inch wide is put on the edge on all goods with a close and firm texture, while on heavy, loose material, the stitching looks more appropriate.

The button-holes run down to the bottom of the skirt. This form of jacket makes up well in fine diagonal or brocaded velvet.

For heavy winter wear, rough suiting will make very stylish garments.

The lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips as on the Figure, and then it is equally as well adapted to be worn with any dress, as in the shape we illustrate.

FIG. 23. SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK.

Figure 23 represents a long, close-fitting, single-breasted sack, consisting of back, side-body, front and sleeve. They are all drawn by measuring the lines, and placing the number of inches on each line as designated by the numbers shown on the Figure. Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and draw the lines across at right angles with the line O. When these figures are all located, finish by drawing the outlines.

Draw the straight line O down to the desired length for the side-body; at 28½ apply the figures on the lines—when these are all fixed curve the outlines.

For the front, draw the straight line down from O, and mark the number of inches for both length and width; when these are all fixed finish the outlines.

The sleeve is drawn from O down to the required length, applying the number of inches for length as well as width, as shown; after these have all been found, and the line drawn at right angles with the line O, draw the outlines. After the upper part of the sleeve has been drawn cut it out; then locate the points for the under-sleeve, and lay the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve, and draw it like the back of upper-sleeve; fix the points in front, and lay the upper-sleeve on and draw for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as shown.

FIG. 24. JACKET OR CLOAK—FROM A WAIST PATTERN.

The method which is explained below is one of the most handy, as well as the easiest, that can be used, and will invariably produce good results. It is evident, in the first place, that the original pattern must have the essential qualities of fit and good lines, otherwise it would be of little value as a base or guide to produce another garment. In order to get such a waist pattern one must be able to design it, or have it on hand; in the latter case we are prepared to furnish these patterns when ordered.

THE BACK:

In drafting a jacket pattern, first draw a line (like O-G) on the edge of your paper. Lay the back against the line at O and within 1½ inch of the line at the waist, then trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for seam; then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3.

Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length wanted from O to 5 and 9 and draw a line over to 10. From 5 to 9 draw a straight line, and then curve outside of this, at point 8, about one-half inch, as shown on Figure.

Make the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point 7, and from this point draw a line down to 10. This line should be no further away from the first line at 10 than at 7, or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the same as at waist, from 1½ to 7. Now, starting at 4, slightly curve to 7 and go one-half inch outside of straight line to 10.

THE SIDE-BODY.

In this case, as on the back, the first thing we do is to draw a straight line from O to 10. Now lay the side-body against it, at O, and swing it away from the line at the waist 1¼ inch. Trace along the pattern from O to 1¼. Then move the pattern one-fourth inch away from the last line, which would leave from 1 to 3 just one-fourth inch for the seam. From 5 to 6 go in one-half the distance allowed over and above the allowance on the back, as from 6 to 7. Now curve the side-body from 2 to 5, keeping as nearly as possible the same shape as the original. Then from 5 draw a line down parallel with the first line which runs from O to 10. Now apply the back from 2 to 9 and regulate the length, which is point 9; then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to 9. At 9, square across to 10, and also draw a straight line from 1¼ to 10, and begin to curve from 3, past 7, to 10. This curve should be more round near hip, or begin to curve closer to the waist. The curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to 8, may be gradual, as it thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than it actually is.

THE FRONT.

First draw the straight line like O-B. Lay the fore-part of the pattern against this line, touching at the centre of the breast, B, and trace along it at the front from 1 to the bottom at 3. Next move the pattern back one-half inch to B. Trace along the arm-hole without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a trifle at neck. On the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side-body on top of the front, touching point 15, and at the waist at 20, and finish the balance from 20 to 22 by the side-body. Now from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom, point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at B. From 3 to B draw a straight line, and for a double-breasted jacket, as the Figure given, add on to the front, at B, 3 inches, at waist 2½ inches, at the bottom 3 inches, and shape it as shown. At the bottom, after it has been curved by a sweep, straighten it one-half inch above the sweep in the centre. Instead of two darts at the back only one is used, as shown, and this one can be increased one-half inch, and a cut is also taken out under the arm from 16 to 17.

It is evident that two darts can be put in as well as one, or when the same is intended for plush goods the darts can be left out altogether without altering the balance in any manner.

To produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from C, where it is intended to roll, to E, which is one-half inch from curved line of neck; then drop down from this line at 13 to 11 one inch and curve the break, as shown from 11 to E. From 11 to 12 is ¾ inch; curve this also to neckline at F, and thence along the neck to the front. From 11 to 13 make the part of collar which is to turn over 1½ to 2 inches wide, and shape to the front at G.

Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.

FIGS. 25 AND 26. WALKING COAT.

By using a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking-coat can be cut in the most ready manner.

The back is the same as a sack-jacket. We only measure from the top down to the length of open skirt A. From here add the lap for pleats; single pleats require only 1¼ inch; box pleats, according to size, 2 to 4 inches.

The side-body is cut off at a length to correspond to 2 on back, plus one-half inch, and curved up some towards side seam.

The front is made as long as the side-body, and the bottom swept from the shoulder-point. When cut it will leave the skirt in pieces as 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Now take these pieces and lay them down, closing at hip, so that the opening will be no more at bottom than at top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14.

Now draw along the skirt at back from 4 to 15. From 4 draw towards 5, raise one-half inch above the pattern to 10, curving pattern at front.

Put in a dart at 7. From 11 to 16 trace along the front, and also along the bottom. Add the pleat behind.

The side-body in this Figure is laid in a closing position at side, point 2, to show that the seam must have a continuous curve from 1 and 2 to the front.

The distance from 1 and 2 to 3, and from there to the front, is noted, and the skirt from 4 to 5-7 and 11 should be just the same with 1 inch more added, which is pressed in before the skirt is seamed on to the fore-part. It will be noticed that in laying the pieces of the of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 13, but at the top and bottom they are separated, equal distances, the cut at 7 reduces one opening, and 1 inch fullness equalizes the amount the fullness is greater at 9 and forward. The addition for single and double-breasted is made by adding on in front of the fore-part and also on to the skirt: for a single-breasted 1 inch is enough, but for a double-breasted from 2 to 3 inches is required.

FIG. 27. DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET.

Commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts—by the Proportionate System—by drawing line from O to F. From O go down to 11 three-fourths of an inch, and to 10 2 inches; from 11 to 10 curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to D 18 inches and to F the full length, 32 inches; at C, O and F draw right angle lines across. From C to the back is 1½ inch; Draw a line from 11 to 1½, and one from 1½ to F; make the width of back from 1½ to 2 inches wide. From O to B is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch breast, and A is midway between these two points; draw lines over from A and B. From B to G is one-third of breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches; from G to H is one-fourth of breast, or 4½ inches. From Y to J is one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G, H and J, also down from J to N.

Where line A crosses line G, at M, draw another line from M to 10; raise one-half inch above M to V, and draw a curved line from 10 to V.

Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth inch below breast-line at 15.

In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and from there, with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from F to Z will be about equal to that from C to 2.

Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to 3 and S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14, the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to give it ease over the hips; also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4 and 20. From S curve up to 21, which latter point is 1½ inch above the line S-18. Point 20 is on the same level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front seam which runs down from 5. The piece under the arm is 1½ inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches from 4 to 5; this should be shaped somewhat like draft.

From L to I is one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the same down from L to T. Curve the neck; from I to A draw a straight line, and place the length of shoulder from 10 to V on the front from I to U; shape the front of shoulder by dropping below line at U one-half inch, and raise slightly above it at 12.

Finish drawing the arm-hole from U to H, going out beyond the line H at 13 about one half inch.

Draw from T, at the front, outside of J one-half inch, thence to K at waist, going inside of front line one-fourth inch at K and N to point P at bottom.

In the middle, between J and H, locate a point for the dart, and in the centre, between this and H, fix another point for the back dart. From K to 1½, across the waist, measure the distance, taking out 1 inch between 2 and 3, which will be 16 inches; deduct the size of waist, 12 inches, from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches, is to be taken out in darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each. From K to 9 is 2 inches; from 9 to 8 is one dart; from 8 to 7, between the darts, is three-fourths inch; from 7 to 6 is another dart of 2 inches. About 2½ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 and 6, nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N; at N it is one-half inch below straight line.

Make the lapel straight on its inside edge, and 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches at centre of breast, in width, and shape like Figure.

To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips. Regulate the length by the back. From S draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body at 21, thence to N; from N forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down; also put in two cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right to fit the body. Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts.

A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.

FIG. 28. TRAVELING ULSTER.

A Spring and Fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this Figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it. The draft is a close-fitting traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons down to the bottom, and has a collar which turns over, as represented by Fig. 5. This collar should be well stretched with the hot iron, at the lower edge, before it is sewed on, in order that it may cling around the neck nicely. This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies’ garments.

The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat.

The front has a large dart cut in one piece—that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt attached to the body—but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps.

For use as a traveling garment it will be well to make it out of waterproof cloth, but it makes a handsome street paletot when made out of diagonal cloth or melton.

FIGS. 29 AND 30. NEWMARKET.

This style of Newmarket has only one dart. Proceed to make a full size draft in accordance with the directions. First draw a straight line O, and mark off the number of inches down from O, as given on the Figure; at these points draw lines across, and on these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed to draw each part of the garment.

FIG. 31. RIDING-HABIT.

The demand and orders for these garments have, so far, been considerable in the leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those who make them for the highest fashionables, but especially to those who are located in smaller towns and who are not often called upon to make this style of garment. There are now many ladies who have a horse at their disposal, and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian exercise, and it is quite necessary, not only for the tailor but the dressmaker, to know how a riding-habit should be cut and made. At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but a tailor to make a stylish riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their dressmakers.

The first thing necessary is a good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern must be cut, as a well-setting, comfortable riding-habit cannot be made without it.

The jacket has a few peculiarities:

There should be no seam down the middle of the back; the front, side-body and back are cut one inch below the natural waist.

The skirt and back form a pleat like the skirt-pleat of a coat.

The buttons should be small and round. The sleeves are tightly buttoned up at wrist.

The inside of jacket should be lined with silk, carefully wadded and stitched in close rows. It should have a belt inside, stitched to each seam at waist, which is to close it tight to the form.

The Figures we give show to advantage some of these peculiarities. The draft is a good model of such a habit, and is universally adopted, being both suitable and elegant. It “looks quite English” and very pretty. A plain standing collar of white linen should be worn with it and a gentleman’s cravat of black silk, or if the jacket is made with the lapels turning down a flat scarf is more appropriate.

We add to this an article published in “Munster’s Gazette of Fashion” on riding-habits. This will enable our readers to be more fully posted, not only on what is worn here but what is in keeping with London styles:

“We have devoted one of the plates issued with the current
number of our publication to the representation of the newest
and most fashionable style of a lady’s riding-habit in wear.
The lengthening of the waist, which we reported last year, has
been maintained, although it has not been increased; and the
jacket-skirt is about the same in length. It is fastened up to
the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small stand-collar
rounded off at the front. The jacket-skirt is cut in one piece
instead of two, as heretofore, and at front runs off at an
angle from the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part,
and is lined with cloth, or interlined with some article of
substance, to give it a firmness. The edges of the back skirts
terminate in a point at the bottom. A small square tab, with
two holes in it, is sewn across under the bottom of the back,
and is fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top of the back
part of train. The edges are usually trimmed with a narrow
silk braid, sewn on flat, and the body and the sleeves lined
with light colored silk. Ball buttons and fancy silk buttons
are generally used. Five or six buttons are sewn on at the
hind-arm; the two lower holes only are worked open.

Some ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their
riding-habits, and eschewing all fictitious aids by way of
adornment to the bodies have made them perfectly plain, with
the edges turned in and stitched, and smoked pearl or vegetable
ivory shank buttons.

Veils are no longer considered correct, no doubt because they
may be considered too effeminate in character and out of place
with the “billy-cock” hat.

The train, as now worn, is only cut a few inches longer than
the walking length. It is turned up at the bottom, with a
narrow hem only, and the V’s taken out at the seams are covered
with ribbon.

Colored habits are being worn in rich shades of brown, olive
and green—not too light. Blue and black are also worn. The
small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred
on account of their making up so satisfactorily. Dress meltons
and tweeds are also worn, but the makes are not so appropriate.

One inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the
necessity for every lady, taking equestrian exercise, to wear
riding trousers. They are usually made of the same cloth as
the habit, with a fly-front open to leg-seam, or with a long
opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the
centre, and a narrow strap at bottom.”

In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft. But in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists, and lengthen the skirt as on Figure 7 and draw the skirt like that on last Figure.

FIG. 32. CIRCULAR.

Draw lines O-5 and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and 1½ inch inside of line at the waist. Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and touching front-line at J. Draw along the top of the back from H to 1, and add to the pattern at 1, for seams, one-half inch. Draw from 1 to F and from 2, on the front shoulder, to F. From J, along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to 4. Now from 1 and 2 draw a line and make a point in the centre at 3. Apply the length from H to 5 for full length of what the garment should be, and using point 3 as a pivot sweep from 5 to the front for the lower or bottom edge; then square the bottom at 5, and in front at 4, as shown in the Figure.

If a seam is wanted draw a line through the centre from F and take out about 3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7 and 6 to 8.

For a close back, curve from H along the back to 1½ and thence to 5 at bottom.

FIGS. 33 AND 34. RUSSIAN CIRCULAR.

In making a pattern of this garment we first draw a line on the edge of paper and make a point on the right end, as O. From O down place three-fourths of an inch. From O to I is one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size. Between O and I is J. H and I are at right angles with first back-line. From I over on the line place one-third of breast, equal to 6 inches, and add 1 inch, making in all 7 inches, and draw a line up to 5. Next, from O on top line place 2 or 2½ inches and curve from ¾ to 2½.

Measure down from ¾ to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches, and the whole length to R. Go in from straight line at D 1½ inch and curve the right back-seam from ¾ to 1½ and R.

Make the back, at waist, 4 inches wide and curve from 5 through waist at 11 to 12 at bottom. The run of this line should be nearly straight past V and curving at 11, and should also be wider at bottom, about 1 inch more than from D to 11. From 2½ draw a line raising it one-half inch at 5.

For the front (Figure 34) draw a straight line from O to J. From O down to a is one-eighth of breast, equal to 2¼ inches. From O to B is one-sixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O to K is one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches. Square lines across at all these points. From O to A, the neck, is one-sixth of breast.

Lay the back on to the point A and extreme shoulder resting on the line at C. Now draw along the back shoulder while it is in this position, and also curve from C to 12, which should only be 4 inches below C.

From K go out to H one-quarter of the breast, less 1 inch, equal to 8 inches. Having established this we can curve the shoulder easier, as seen by dotted lines. Measure from K over on the line one-half of breast, equal to 18 inches, and one-third of breast, or 6 inches, added.

Now lay the back-line against this last point in such a way that point 5 of the back will rest on line A-13, and so that it will be placed as seen in Figure 35. Then carefully measure to see if the distance from K-H and to the back-line will be exactly one-halt and one-third of breast, or 27 inches. Then curve from 12 to 13 to 14 down the back and reducing it at the bottom about 4 inches from the position as it would be when the back is laid as stated.

Now by the length of the back regulate that of the front, and then sweep by the point of shoulder A from 10 to J. This latter point, and part of this round, as produced by the sweep, should be shortened about 1 inch. Curve the neck from A to B, and add 1 inch all along the front for a turn-in hem.

From where the back lies against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of sleeve head.

The upper part of the sleeve-head should be gathered-in considerable, and at O a notch should be placed to facilitate the sewing in, for notch should be sewn on notch. (See Figure 35.)

FIG. 35. CLOSED CIRCULAR.

After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay it against the front and cut without a seam from O down to the bottom. For this shape, after the shoulders are seamed up, gather in the round of sleeve from O forward. The same can be cut like the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom, in a straight line down from B. This makes a wrap with a back wing and a front. When cut in this manner an opening can be left for the hands to go through, as shown on the Figure, below E.

A short cape, such as have been worn for some time in Europe, and are just making their appearance here, is cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist. This same wrap can be cut from a dolman pattern by laying the sleeve of a dolman on to front so that the front notches come together and the two patterns close together some distance above, or till within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder, then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve.

If a line is drawn through the shoulder-point, next to the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back shoulder-point laid on this line and closing against the sleeve at blade, it will represent exactly this circular cape, and will be one of the easiest ways to make it. The Figure shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted line from E forward, as it appears when lying in position.

These several wraps can be made of silk, and fur-lined, or they may be of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are handsome in shape and outline when correctly cut. As they are so different from the old circular they will be much sought after, because of the newness of design and that the sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize with the increased prevalence of gathered and high style of sleeve-heads.

FIGS. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40. DOLMAN.

Draw a line O-H; from O, down, mark three-fourths of an inch. From O draw a short line over to 3, and make it 2½ inches. From O down to B is one-fourth of breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast. Point F is in the centre, between O and B; from ¾ to D is the length of the waist, and to H the full length of garment. Draw lines across at F, B and D. Between F and B, directly in the centre, make a mark C, and draw a line across.

Go in at the waist 1⅓ inch from line at D; draw line from ¾ to 1½ for the centre of back, and curve below D to H. From 1½, at waist, measure in to 4 3½ inches to 4 inches.

On line C make the width of back one-third of breast and one inch and draw a line up.

On the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and raise it one-half inch above 14; commencing there, exactly at the crossing of the lines, begin to curve past 16 and 4 to 1 at bottom. Having finished the back, first make a line across in the middle, between ¾ and F, from E over; next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular size, on 15 as when sewn in the arm-hole; holding it at 15, swing it down till the upper part of the sleeve-head rests about one-half inch below line E, at 13, and when in this position draw along the round of the sleeve, which will give exactly the round as shown on the Figure from 15, past 13, to 2.

Next, placing the width over from B on the back line, measure to 10, 24 inches, and curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches. Point G is about 12 inches below the waist, and from this place 1 inch more than one-quarter of the hips to 8, and draw from 6, which is one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9; then finish the curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape. The front is constructed by drawing a line from O down the front edge or centre of front.

From O over to shoulder point is one-sixth breast, the same down to 3; also go down one-eighth breast and draw a line across; curve the neck from ⅙ to 3, and apply the same width of shoulder as the back on the front, ⅙ to 10. From O down is one-half breast to E, there draw a line over to 8 and make last point, from E, one-fourth breast less 1 inch.

Measure the distance on the back, from B to H, and place it from E to P, then sweep the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point, which gives line P to K. Make the distance over from H to J one-quarter of the hips, and 1 to 1½, inch more; draw a line from K through J to L. Next measure the back from 6 to 9 and place the same from K up to L; curve arm-hole from 10 through 8 to L. Add 3 inches for a lap of double-breasted style; mark and space the buttons.

The under-sleeve is cut like the upper part from 2 to 10 and 11, like the outside curve. The inside curve from 2 to 7 is short, just as much as is needed to sew in the front—to find how much this should be we make a notch opposite 14 and one at 2, which is about 10 inches from 14. This measure, less 1 inch, is marked from 10 to 16, and at that point make another notch. What is left from 16 to L must be placed from 2 to 7, and this curve should be like curve on front. Lastly, draw a line from 7 to the star, which finishes the whole garment.

In order to draft a dolman pattern which will fit well and hang with a good balance the same manner of drafting as that which produces a good shaped sack should be used, then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as in a tight-fitting sack, and a dolman can then be cut as close as a sack, if so desired.

The manner of drafting the back, side-body and front, are, in fact, just like a sack, the main difference being in the shape of the sleeve. The sleeve, even in the upper part, must be like an ordinary coat-sleeve, while the lower part may be any of the various shapes in fashion.

In drafting make a line to start on from O to F (Figure 37); from O down is three-fourths inch, and from O over to top line is 2¼ inches to 1. From O to B is one-fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size. Point D is in the middle, between O and B, and point 6 is in the middle, between O and D. From ¾, which is the top of the back, measure down to C 15 inches, and to F 40 inches, the full length. Point E is 6 inches, or one-third of breast, below the waist-line at C. At all these points draw lines across. From B to H is one-third and 1 inch, equal, on 36 breast, to 7 inches; draw a line up to J; in the middle, between I, the point where the two lines cross and H, mark point K. At the waist-line go in from straight line C to 3 one and one-half inches, then draw line down from ¾ to 3 and from 3 to F. Also draw a straight line at right angles with waist-line from 3 to 6 at bottom.

Make the width at waist, from 3 to 4, about 3 inches, and draw also a line down to 7. Now curve back-seam, as shown, and whatever amount there is from 6 to F place from 7 to 8, and curve from 4 past 5 to 8.

Draw a line from I to 1, raise above I to J three-fourths inch, and curve the shoulder. Starting from J up upright line, curve back seam to 4 and 8; also mark a dim line from J past I, K to G, just like in a sack back—the dotted line shows that. Point G is one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches, from B.

Notice that the curve on the back, from C to 3, is a trifle outside of the straight line, and that below 3 it runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist, and below E it curves outside again to F.

The inside seam from J past breast-line should be very nearly straight, and begin to curve only near the waist, and from 5 down it must have the same curve as outside line below point E to F.

Now have a sleeve cut for a 36 size and lay this on to K, as shown, so that the sleeve-head rests against the line from K to I; then in the centre, between I and K, find point 2 and stick a pin.

Now turn to Figure 38: In the middle, between line A and D, draw line E; keeping it pinned at 2, move the lower part of the sleeve towards the back till the top of the sleeve-head just touches line E at 10. While it lays thus draw along the top from 2 to 10 and 9, also down from 9, in front of sleeve pattern, to line B. This gives the outline of the sleeve, but we modify it by drawing a corrected line from 10, inside of point 9 of sleeve, down to 12.

Figure 39 gives the balance of the sleeve. First draw a line in the centre, between lines B and C, which places line D.

Then take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at point 2, and without moving the sleeve stick a pin at point U; this point is found two-thirds of the width of the sleeve forward. When this is done take hold of the sleeve at its lower point and move it upwards, till point T of sleeve rests on line D at N, and then curve from 16 to N. To produce this curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line D at 17, and place the same from 17 to 19, and draw a straight line from 19 to 18, then curve line from 16, resting on line at 20, thence to N. From N curve form of sleeve to 21 and 15, and to 13 for one style of sleeve, or from U to 21 and 14 for another style.

Go in from 4 to 5 three-quarters of an inch; curve from 10, past 2, touching the back, and along it past line B, and thence separate from the back to 5 and 14—this last line must touch at point 13 on the straight line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and is marked 5 on the same.

THE FRONT—FIG. 40.

Lay the back down on paper and extend all the lines across, line A, B, C, D and bottom line. Measure from Z to A on line B, one-half of breast, or 18 inches; from B to H is one-third of breast and 1 inch; H to P is one-fourth of breast, equal to 4½ inches. Draw a line up at P, and one up and down at A. Mark line A also. From K to L is one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, and K to 7 is the same, 3 inches; curve neck.

Draw a line from L to D and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from L to 8, and curve from 8 upwards above the line one-fourth inch; draw from 8 down in front of line P to 9. This will be three-fourths inch in front of line P. Let this curve of the arm-hole extend below line B, or nearly down to midway between lines B and C, and curve to 6. From 6 draw down to 5, which is three-fourths inch from 4 to 15 and 17; at the last point it should be about 1¼ inch over the straight line drawn down from 4 on the back.

From point G, which, as before stated, is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches from B, draw a straight line down. Curve from G to 12, 13 and 18; the last point is 2 inches from T; also curve from G to 12, 14 and 19. Point 19 is the same distance from T as 18.

Draw bottom line from 19 to 30 at front, where curve three-fourths inch below the line. Add in front over F line, for double-breasted 3 inches, and for single-breasted 1½ inches.

Now we have only to show how the under-sleeve is produced. This is done by measuring first the sleeve-head from O, where point J of the back is sewn on, to 16, which point is in middle, between 9 and 18. This will measure 10½ inches; as we put in 1 inch of fullness in the sleeve-head it leaves us only 9½ inches, which is measured down the front from 8 to 10 and notched. Lay sleeve notch, marked 16, on to notch on the fore-part 10, hold it there with a pin, move it till line on sleeve, marked C, will lay parallel with any of the lines, as C or B on fore-part. Then mark on the fore-part along the sleeve, from notch at 10 to N of sleeve, and from N to 21; the sleeve will now be marked on the fore-part line 10 to O, P and A, and will be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from 10 to A, and can be traced off on another sheet of paper.

The principle as given in this article is suitable, and the only thing necessary, to produce any style of dolman. The change necessary for the short or long pointed sleeve, or for any shape of arm-wing, does not alter the principle. Pleated backs, or very much fullness in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting enough extra goods in to meet the amount required for pleats or fullness.

When a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted. When more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan is to cut the sleeve in two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as required, about 1 or 2 inches, and a little more round put on the top.