Chapter IV: Course of Instruction

THIRD YEAR--FIFTH GRADE.

EQUIPMENT.

Sewing box.
Pin cushion--30 pins.
Thimble.
Needles.
Scissors.
Thread cards.
Practice Piece--Unbleached muslin 9" x 12".

ORDER OF EXERCISES.

Prepare Thread Cards--Cardboard 4" x 4" designed and cut for four kinds of thread.

Exercise No. 21--Patching Sampler--Hemmed Patch.

Exercise No. 22--Mitered Corner.

Exercise No. 23--Patching Sampler--Overhand Patch.

Exercise No. 24--Basketry--Christmas Piece.[17][18]

Exercise No. 25--Napkin--Damask Hem.[19]

Exercise No. 26--Flannel Patch.

Exercise No. 27--A Pair of Sleeve Protectors.

Exercise No. 28--A Garment Brought from Home to be Repaired.

Exercise No. 29--A Pin Cushion.[20]

Exercise No. 30--Textile Fibers and Fabrics--Cotton.

FOOTNOTES:

[17] See Electives, page 36.

[18] See Electives, page 36.

[19] See Electives, page 36.

[20] See Electives, page 36.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXERCISES.

Review the divisions of the inch.

PATCHING SAMPLER.

_Materials:_ Gingham 8" warp, 13" woof; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.

It is desirable that each girl cut the two patches and the two pieces to be patched from the same piece of cloth, that there may be no difficulty in matching the pattern, when patching or when later sewing the two patched pieces together.

Fold the piece of gingham, eight inches by thirteen inches woof, with the warp into three sections, two of them eight inches warp by five inches woof, and the third eight inches warp by three inches woof. Fold the three-inch piece across the warp in the center for the two patches. Cut on the creases. Pin one patch to one of the large pieces, label with the girl's name and put it away for Exercise No. 23.

EXERCISE NO. 21--HEMMED PATCH.

_Materials:_ First section of Patching Sampler.

The hemmed patch is the strongest and the one most commonly used for repairing garments. The patch will not be noticeable if the pattern is skilfully matched. When matching stripes or plaids always turn on the line where the color changes, never through the middle of a stripe. Ten minutes spent on a paper pattern will prevent the mistakes beginners usually make in this exercise.

Trim the patch and crease a quarter-inch fold on the four sides. Place the patch in the center of the large piece (which we will imagine to be worn) and baste around it, matching the pattern carefully. Do not allow pupils to go any farther until the patch is basted on exactly right. Turn to the right side and cut out the part supposed to be worn by the following successive steps:

1. Measure one-half inch (or as near it as the
pattern will permit) from the edge of the patch,
using pins for marking the line where it is to be
cut.

2. Cut out the center, leaving about one-half inch
extending over the patch.

3. Clip the corners diagonally the _exact_ width
of the fold to be turned in. _Take great care and
do not cut in too far_, as this will spoil the
patch.

4. Turn in the edge, baste and hem.

5. Hem the patch on the wrong side.

EXERCISE NO. 22--MITERED CORNER.

_Materials:_ Paper.

Teach the mitered corner on paper only. Have it done over and over until every pupil understands how it is done, and can do it alone, rapidly and perfectly. Ask pupils to bring paper from home, as almost any kind will do for this practice work. Have it made in hems of several widths. See description of "Miscellaneous" exercises, page 79.

EXERCISE NO. 23--OVERHAND PATCH.

_Materials:_ Second section of the Patching Sampler.

The overhand patch is used on very thin material, such as lawn, dimity or organdy, where strength is not required and where the two thicknesses of cloth around the edge of the hemmed patch would be too noticeable. The pattern should be as carefully matched as in the hemmed patch and equal care given to the corners. A paper pattern will assist beginners.

Fold the large piece of gingham with the four corners together and clip off the point from the center. The following are the successive steps for making the overhand patch:

1. Measure on each side of the center, with the
warp, one and one-fourth inches and with the woof
three-fourths of an inch. Mark with pins.

2. Cut out the oblong at these points (or as near
as the pattern permits, observing also the pattern
of the patch to be used.)

3. Clip the corners diagonally the _exact_ width
of the fold to be turned in.

4. Turn in the fold on the four sides of the hole.

5. Crease the folds on the four sides of the patch
so that it will fit exactly into the hole,
matching patterns.

6. Beginning near the middle of one side overhand
the patch in, matching as you overhand. Do not
baste.

The two patched pieces are to be overhanded together. Turn a quarter-inch fold on each with the warp, matching the pattern, baste together and overhand.

Teach the Overcasting on the Practice Piece and overcast all raw edges on the Patching Sampler.

EXERCISE NO. 24--BASKETRY--CHRISTMAS PIECE.[21][22]

This subject has such limitless possibilities and its success or failure rests so entirely with the teacher that it will be necessary for each teacher to prepare herself to teach it and decide upon the style, size and general character of the design of the baskets to be made by her class, allowing the pupils as far as possible to work out their individual tastes.

See chapter on "Basketry," page 114.

EXERCISE NO. 25--NAPKIN--DAMASK HEM.[23]

_Materials:_ Damask 8-1/2" x 8-1/2"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.

See Description of the Damask Hem, page 70.

Trim the napkin square. Crease a half-inch hem on the four sides. The corners are to be mitered, and this is more easily done by basting the side hems in place, skipping across the corners when basting. Turn out the corners and miter them. Hem the corners with the flat hem and the sides with the damask hem.

EXERCISE NO. 26--FLANNEL PATCH.

_Materials:_ Flannel 6-1/2" x 6-1/2", patch 3" x 3"; sewing silk; needle No. 8.

See description of the Herringbone Stitch, page 77.

Cut from the center of the large piece of flannel a two-inch square. Trim the patch square and place it over this hole. Baste at both edges. Teach the herringbone stitch on the practice piece, and herringbone over the raw edges of the patch. Turn one fold three-eighths of an inch wide on the four sides of the large piece, baste and herringbone stitch the raw edge. _Keep the raw edges trimmed._

EXERCISE NO. 27--A PAIR OF SLEEVE PROTECTORS.

_Materials:_ Cotton twill 8-1/2" x 11"; tape 36"; ribbon elastic 4"; white thread No. 60; needle No. 8.

To cut the pattern of a sleeve protector: Cut an oblong eight inches by ten and one-half inches. Fold through the center the long way. Mark the top of the folded edge A, the bottom B, the upper right hand corner C and the lower D. Measure down on the folded edge from A four inches and mark E. Measure down from C four inches and mark F. Measure up from D five inches and mark G. Measure on the line B D three and one fourth inches from B and mark H. Connect G and H with a straight line. With E as the center and E A as the radius draw a quarter of a circle connecting A and F. Cut on the lines H G, and A F.

Cut the sleeve protectors from the pattern. Beginning at the center of the bottom and holding the wrong side of the cloth next to you, baste the edge of the sleeve protector to the line running through the middle of the tape. Make a tiny pleat in the tape at each corner so that when doubled over it will round the corners smoothly. Join the ends of the tape by folding back both ends and overhanding them together on the wrong side. Hem the tape down on the right side. Before basting the tape down on the wrong side, fasten the elastic in place on one side of the sleeve protector. The elastic is in two pieces, two inches in length. Place the first piece one inch from the bottom and the second piece three inches above the first. Baste the tape down on the wrong side and hem, leaving the opening for the other end of the elastic, which is fastened in place after the hemming is done. Lay the binding smooth over the elastic and stitch along the edge of the tape, through the elastic, to hold in place.

EXERCISE NO. 28--A GARMENT BROUGHT FROM HOME TO BE MENDED.

Ask every pupil to bring some article from home, in preference a garment, to be mended. There is no home that cannot furnish a garment that needs repairing. This is a practical application of Exercises 21, 23 or 26, and is a valuable experience for the children.

EXERCISE NO. 29--A PIN CUSHION.[24]

_Materials:_ These will be furnished by the pupils.

Pupils and teachers will plan their own designs, adapting them to the material furnished. The cushions may be of any size, shape or kind. Do not have the children incur expense, as small pieces of ribbon, silk or bright bits of many kinds of cloth can be made into attractive cushions. Hardwood sawdust, sifted, makes an excellent filling.

EXERCISE NO. 30--TEXTILE FIBERS AND FABRICS--COTTON.

Under the heading "Textile Fibers and Fabrics," page 92, will be found subject matter which can be used in correlation with the geography, language and history work. The fifth grade subject is cotton. Many interesting collections can be made that will be instructive for the children.

a. Cotton fabrics with their names and uses.

b. Pictures.

c. Cotton fiber in the various stages of
manufacture.

d. Maps upon which can be located the countries
producing cotton and cities noted for the
manufacture of cotton cloth.

e. Compositions on cotton and allied subjects.

ELECTIVES.

[21] The round holder and case may be substituted for the basketry, or a blank book with paper cover or the folding envelope case may be made instead. See "Paper, Cloth and Cardboard Construction," page 104.

[22] The pin cushion may be substituted for the basketry and the book cover, or the book bag, or the round holder given for Exercise No. 29.

[23] A book cover or a book bag for carrying books may be substituted for the pin cushion.

A ROUND HOLDER AND CASE.

_Materials:_ Unbleached muslin, 14" x 7"; bleached muslin 15" x 7-3/4"; strap 18" x 1-1/2"; bias binding 25" x 1"; wadding.

To cut the Circular Pattern: Cut a square of paper eight inches by eight inches and fold it three times. Measure three and five-eighth inches from the point on each folded edge and once between these edges. Draw a curved line connecting these points and cut on the line. The case is cut from this pattern, a circle having a radius of three and five-eighth inches and the holder from a pattern one-fourth of an inch smaller with a radius of three and three-eighth inches.

The Holder: Cut from the unbleached muslin two circular pieces. Turn in one-fourth of an inch around both pieces. Place the wadding between them; pin and baste together. Overhand the folded edges. Quilt the holder in a simple pattern with the running stitch.

The Case: Cut from the bleached muslin two circular pieces. Fold one piece with the warp through the center and cut on the fold. Turn an eighth of an inch hem on each of the straight edges just cut, and hem. The pupils who work rapidly could design a simple decoration for the front of the case. This could be traced, or drawn with a hard pencil and worked with a coarse, colored thread in any decorative stitch, before making the case. Place the half circles on the large circle and baste around the edge. This will leave an opening of about half an inch into which the holder will easily slip. Make the strap by which the holder case is hung from the belt, by folding in the edges at the sides and across one end and overhanding together. The raw end of the strap is then fastened at one end of the case-opening, so that it will come under the binding. See description of the Bias, page 79. Teach the cutting and joining of bias pieces, first with paper and then with the cloth. In order to give the pupil this valuable experience cut the binding in three pieces and join them together. Stitch along the edge of the binding where it folds back against the strap. Slip the holder into the case.

A BOOK COVER.

_Materials:_ Grass linen or Holland 15" woof by 10" warp; white thread No. 60; needles Nos. 8 and 5; luster cotton.

The Design: Start several weeks before the class is ready to make it, arouse an interest, and study designs for book covers. Ask pupils to bring from home books having good designs on the covers. Have them tell why they like certain ones and do not favor others. In a word, educate their tastes in this line before expecting them to originate designs. Do not attempt anything elaborate. Many artistic effects can be obtained by interlacing straight lines and these have the advantage of being easily worked. Paper cutting is an excellent medium for experimenting, if a unit is to be repeated or if curves are desired in the outline. For example, fold an oblong, four and one-half by seven inches, through the center both ways, and cut on a slightly curving line from the folded edges to the corner. Quite a variety of simple, graceful outlines can be made by slightly varying these curves, which, with a simple unit repeated around the center or in each corner makes an effective design. Have the finished pattern before starting the book cover. Trace on the cloth by means of the carbon paper. It will be necessary to crease the cover over the book before putting on the design, so that it may be placed just right.

To Make the Book Cover: Work the design with the outline stitch before sewing up the seams. Overcast the raw edges at the top and bottom of the cover and hem with a quarter-inch hem the two ends that fold into the book. The raw-edged hem, finished with the herringbone stitch, could be used in place of the plain hem, if desired. Turn in the top and bottom of the cover so that the book will slip in easily. Overhand that part which folds into the books to the outside, at top and bottom, thus forming the pockets into which the covers of the book slip. Do the overhanding on the wrong side and then turn it to the right side.

A BOOK BAG.

_Materials:_ Galatea, kaiki or burlap 15" woof, 13" warp; two strips for handles 14" warp by 3" woof; thread No. 40; needle No. 7.

The decoration of the bag should be done before sewing up the ends. Very artistic effects can be obtained in the applique. See directions for the design of the book cover, page 37.

Cut a three-inch strip from the length of the piece for the end pieces. Divide this into two pieces seven and one-half by three inches. Find the middle of one end of both end pieces and notch them. Fold the large piece with the warp through the center and notch at both ends of the fold. Turn in a quarter of an inch around the large piece and baste. Turn in a quarter of an inch across the notched end and sides of the end pieces. Place the notch at the end of one side piece to one in the large piece, right sides together, and pin in place. Overhand on the wrong side the two together across the end and up both sides. Put in the other end piece in the same way. Trim the end pieces even with the top of the case. Turn a three-quarter inch hem at the top. Before hemming make the straps for the handles by turning in and overhanding the edges. Insert both ends of one strap under the hem of the right side of the bag, two inches from the middle or four inches apart and the other strap on the left side. Hem, and fasten the handles to the edge of the hem by backstitching.

[24] A cover for a pin cushion affords a good application for the mitered corner. This can be made any size, square or oblong. Ornament with fine feather stitching and the star stitch.