Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber's Note:

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. Bold text is denoted by
=equals signs=.

On page 26 Count Fritz Thumb should possibly be Count FritzThumb.

On page 120 Indianopolis should possibly be Indianapolis.

On page 124, General How should possibly be General Howe.

A triangle symbol in the text is represented as [**triangle]

HESPEROTHEN;
NOTES FROM THE WEST:
A RECORD OF A
RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA
IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881.

BY
W. H. RUSSELL, LL.D.
BARRISTER-AT-LAW.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET.
1882.

[All rights reserved.]

LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.

ARIZONA.

Deming--The Mirage--Ruined Cities--American
Explorers--Self-Tormentors--Animals and
Plants--Yuma--California--Los Angeles--Santa Monica--The
Pacific Page 1

CHAPTER II.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY.

A new Land of Goshen--A Jehu indeed--The Drive to Clarke's--A
Mountain Hostelry--Grizzlies--Fascination Point--The
Merced--Yosemite Fall--A Salute--Mountain Airs--The Mirror
Lake--"See that Rattle?"--A Philosophic Barber 19

CHAPTER III.

SAN FRANCISCO.

The Palace Hotel--General McDowell--Palo-Alto--The
"Hoodlums"--The real Sir Roger--Exiles in the Far West--The
Chinese Population--For and Against them--The Sand Lot--Fast
Trotters--The Sea-Lions--The Diamond Palace--The Coloured
Population--"Eastward Ho!" 44

CHAPTER IV.

CALIFORNIA TO COLORADO.

Los Angeles--Mud-geysers--"Billy the Kid"--General
Fremont--Manitou, the Garden of the Gods--Desperadoes--Bob
Ingersoll--Denver City--Leadville--Grand Cañon 73

CHAPTER V.

KANSAS TO ST. LOUIS.

Liquor Law--Kansas Academy of Science--An Incident of
Travel--A Parting Symposium--Life in the Cars--St. Louis to
New York 107

CHAPTER VI.

NEW YORK--NEWPORT--DEPARTURE.

Coney Island--Newport--Bass-fishing--Habit of
Spitting--Brighton Beach--Newport Coaching--Extra
Ecclesiam--Victories of American Horses--Newport
Avenues--Return to New York--Our Last Day in America 122

CHAPTER VII.

RETURN TO EUROPE.

The "_City of Berlin_"--The Inman Line--The Service at Roche's
Point--Queenstown Discomforts--A sorry Welcome Home 140

CHAPTER VIII.

SOME GENERAL REFLECTIONS.

Education--Free Schools--Influence of Money in
Politics--Corruption in Public Life--Crime on the Western
Borders--The Great Rebellion--Anniversaries--Great Courtesy to
Strangers--Manners and Customs 151

CHAPTER IX.

THE RED MAN AND HIS DESTINY.

Captain Pratt--Carlisle Barracks--An Indian Bowman--The Indian
Question--The Pupils' Gossip--The "School News"--Indian
Visitors--The White Mother--The India Office--White and
Red--Quo Quousque?--Indian Title Deeds--The Reservations--The
Indian Agencies--Missionary Efforts--The Red Man and the Maori
186

HESPEROTHEN.