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Chapter XVIII: Bewcastle, Liddel Moat, Netherby, Kirk Andrews, Gilnockie,

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LANGHOLM

|A pilgrimage{410} to Bewcastle cannot be recommended to persons animated by curiosity alone; or even by a passion for the beauties of nature.

From childhood the writer had a desire to behold Bewcastle, because it was the Captain of Bewcastle who, in the ballad of _Jamie Telfer_, in _The Border Minstrelsy_, made such an unlucky raid on the cows of a farmer in Ettrickdale. The very word Bewcastle seemed to re-echo {411}the trumpets of the Wardens' Raids and the battles long ago.

But when you actually find yourself, after a long walk or drive up a succession of long green ascents, in the broad bleak cup of the hills; when you see the grassy heights, with traces of ancient earthworks that surround the blind grey oblong of the ruined castle; the little old church, all modern within, and the {412}tiny hamlet that nestles by the shrunken and prosaic burn; then, unless you be an antiquary and a historian, you feel as if you had come very far to see very little.

But if a secular antiquary and a ballad lover, you fill the landscape with galloping reivers, you restore the royal flag of England to the tower, and your mind is full of the rough riding life of Mus-graves and Grahams, Scotts, Elliots and Armstrongs. If, on the other hand, your tastes are ecclesiastical, and you are an amateur of Runic writing, you can pass hours with the tall headless Runic cross beside the church, a work of art dating from the middle of the seventh century of our era, according to the prevalent opinion.

Bewcastle is at least ten miles from the nearest railway at Penton; twelve from Brampton; not easily approached by a fell path from Gilsland; and is most easily if least romantically reached by motor car from Carlisle, a drive of nearly twenty {413}miles. The Elliots and Scotts of the reiving days, got at Bewcastle by riding down Liddel water, crossing it at the Kershope burn ford, and then robbing all and sundry through some four miles. The castle they could not take in a casual expedition.

The oldest monument in the place, except the earthworks said to be Roman, is the Cross, which much resembles the more famous Cross of Ruthwell, near Dumfries, with the runes from the Song of the Rood. More fortunate than the Ruthwell relic of early Anglican Christianity, that of Bewcastle was never broken up by the bigots of the Covenant as "a monument of idolatry." The head, however, was removed by Belted Will of Naworth, and sent to Camden the historian, in the reign of James VI and I. The west face is the most interesting. The top panel contains a figure of St. John the Baptist; our Lord is represented in the central panel, inscribed in runes, _Gessus Kristins_. The figure is noble and broad in treatment; done in the latest gloaming of classical art. Beneath is seated a layman, in garb of peace, with his falcon. The runic inscription on the central panel is black, painted black, it seems, by a recent rector, the Rev. Mr. Maughan, who laboured long at deciphering the characters. Professor Stephens read them:

This victory-column

Thin set up

Hwaetred Woth

gar Olfwolthu

after Alcfrith

Once King

and son of Oswi

Pray for the high

sin of his soul.

Runes are difficult. Mr. Stephens once read a Greek epitaph in elegiac verse, for a Syrian boy, at Brough, as a Runic lament, in old English, for a martyred Christian lady. I have little confidence in Hwaetred, Olfwolthu, and Wothgar: who were they; the artists employed in making the Cross? _Eac Oswiung_, "and son of Oswin," "the king," is said to be plain enough, and to indicate Alchfrith, son of Oswin, who after a stormy youth accepted, as against the Celtic clerics, the positions of St. Wilfred.

The decorative work, knot work, vine scrolls, birds and little animals among the grapes, is of Byzantine and {415}Northern Italian origin: like the decoration of the Ruthwell Cross.

Bewcastle must, it seems, have been a more important and populous place when this monument was erected, than even when the Royal castle was a centre of resistance to the Riddesdale clans in Queen Elizabeth's day.

Returning from Bewcastle by Penton, we strike the Riddel near Penton Linn, not distant from the vanished peel of that Judas, Hector Armstrong of Harelaw, who betrayed the Earl of Northumberland into the hands of the Regent Murray in 1569. A little way below, near the junction of Riddel and Esk, on a commanding height that overhangs railway and river, is Riddel Moat. Locally this moat is called "the Roman Camp," but to the average amateur there is certainly nothing Roman about it. No doubt the Romans may have had an outpost here; the position is too strong not to have been held by them, especially as they had a station barely a couple of miles away, at Netherby. But the prominent remains of fortifications now to be seen here manifestly date from long after Roman days. It is, I believe, the site of the earliest Riddel Castle, erected by Ranulph de Soulis before either the Riddel Castle at Castleton, or Hermitage, was built. This Riddel Castle was razed to the ground, wiped out of existence, by the Scottish army under David Bruce, which invaded England in 1346 and was so totally routed at Neville's Cross a few weeks later. On his march southward, says Redpath, Bruce "took the fortress of Riddel and put the garrison to the sword,... spreading terror and desolation all round him in his progress through Cumberland." Liddel Moat is well worthy of a visit, but it is somewhat out of the beaten track and can only be reached by walking a little distance, preferably from the station at Biddings Junction. The position, defended on the landward side by an immensely deep moat, and on the other dropping almost sheer into the river--or rather, now, on to the intervening railway line--is a magnificent one, and the view obtained from the {416}highest point is very fine,--at one's feet, just beyond the two rivers, "Cannobie lea";

"There was mounting 'mong Graemes of the Netherby clan,

Forsters, Fenwicks, and Musgraves, they rode and they ran,

There was racing and chasing on Cannobie lea,

But the lost bride of Netherby ne'er did they see."

A short way farther down the Esk is Netherby, headquarters of that clan whose peel towers once dotted this part of Cumberland and all the Debateable Land, and who in the early seventeenth century were so hardly used by James VI and I. They were no better, I suppose, than the others of that day, but they were no worse, and the story of their banishment is not very pleasant reading. Lord Scrope believed that the Grahams were "privy" to Buccleuch's rescue of Kinmont Willie, and certainly the Grahams did not love Lord Scrope, who, I suppose, was not likely to present the clan in a very favourable light to Queen Elizabeth. Their reputation, in any case, became increasingly black, and James I, when he came to the throne, issued a proclamation against them. In fact, the dog was given an exceedingly bad name--not of course wholly without cause--and hung; or, rather, many of their houses were harried, their women and children turned out to fend for themselves in the wet and cold, and their men shipped off to banishment in Ireland and in Holland. Certainly, in driblets they made their way back to their own country again, after a time--those who survived, that is,--but their nests had been harried, their broods scattered down the wind, and, as a clan, their old status was never regained.

As has already been told, Netherby was the site of a Roman station, and it is rich in evidences of the old Legions--coins, altars, and what not. The original peel at Netherby--which still forms part of the present mansion--I take to have been such another as the Graham tower of Kirk Andrews, its near neighbour, which stands--still inhabited--just across the Esk, perched on a rising ground overhanging the river. {417}From a sporting point of view at least, the Esk here is a beautiful stream, famous for its salmon, which are plentiful and often of great size.

In his Notes to "Redgauntlet," Sir Walter Scott mentions that "shortly after the close of the American war, Sir James Graham of Netherby constructed a dam-dike, or cauld, across the Esk, at a place where it flowed through his estate, though it has its origin, and the principal part of its course, in Scotland. The new barrier at Netherby was considered as an encroachment calculated to prevent the salmon from ascending into Scotland; and the right of erecting it being an international question of law betwixt the sister kingdoms, there was no court in either competent to its decision. In this dilemma, the Scots people assembled in numbers by signal of rocket-lights, and, rudely armed with fowling-pieces, fish spears and such rustic weapons, marched to the banks of the river for {418}the purpose of pulling down the dam dike objected to. Sir James Graham armed many of his own people to protect his property, and had some military from Carlisle for the same purpose. A renewal of the Border wars had nearly taken place in the eighteenth century, when prudence and moderation on both sides saved much tumult, and perhaps some bloodshed. The English proprietor consented that a breach should be made in his dam-dike sufficient for the passage of the fish, and thus removed the Scottish grievance. I believe the river has since that time taken the matter into its own disposal, and entirely swept away the dam-dike in question." I do not think there is now any trace of the obstruction which so roused the good people of Langholm and their supporters The question, of course, was not a new one. As early as the middle of the fifteenth century, Cumberland folks and Scots were at loggerheads over a "fish-garth" constructed by the former, which the Scots maintained prevented salmon from ascending to the upper waters. The dispute raged for something like a hundred years.

Leaving Kirk Andrews, we get at once onto the old London and Edinburgh coach road close to Scot's Dike, and in the course of two or three miles reach the village of Canonbie, where at a little distance from the bridge over Esk stands the comfortable old coaching inn, the Cross Keys, now favoured of anglers. Thence all the way to Langholm the road runs by the river-bank through very delightful scenery, said, in old days, indeed, to be the most beautiful of all between London and Edinburgh. In the twelfth century a Priory stood at Canonbie, and as late as 1576 there was still a resident Prior, but the building itself I think was wrecked by the English in 1542, after the battle of Solway Moss. A few of its stones are still to the fore, but I fear the ruin was used as a quarry during the building of Canonbie Bridge.

That also is a fate that waited on another famous building not far from Canonbie--Gilnockie Castle, the residence of the {419}notorious Johnny Armstrong. Hollows Tower, a few hundred yards above the village of Hollows, is often confounded with Gilnockie, probably for the reason that no stone of the latter has been left standing on another, and that Hollows Tower is a conspicuous object in the foreground here.

Perhaps, too, Sir Walter Scott was partly responsible for the belief prevalent in many quarters that the Hollows is Gilnockie. In "Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border," he says: "His [Johny Armstrong's] {420}place of residence (now a roofless tower) was at the Hollows, a few miles from Langholm, where its rains still serve to adorn a scene which, in natural beauty, has few equals in Scotland."

I am not certain, but I do not think that Sir Walter ever visited Gilnockie. If he had done so, it could scarcely have escaped his knowledge that another castle once stood less than half a {421}mile from Hollows Tower, and that towards the end of the eighteenth century the stones from that castle were utilised in the building of Gilnockie Bridge. That they were so used is well authenticated; and I should think it is probable that the ruin was found to be a convenient quarry also when houses in the neighbouring village of Hollows were being built.

Hollows lower is a very good example of the old Border Keep, but it is small, much too small to have given anything like sufficient accommodation for Johny Armstrong's "tail," which must necessarily have been of considerable strength. The dining hall, for instance, measures roughly only a little over twenty-two feet by thirteen, and the total outside length of the tower is less than thirty-five feet. I should imagine it to be certain that Johny never lived here; indeed. I should be inclined to doubt if this particular Hollows Tower was even built during Johny Armstrong's life-time. Neither is the position a very strong one,--though on that point it is perhaps not easy to judge, because, in old days no doubt (as in the case of Hermitage Castle,) impassable swamps probably helped to protect it from assault on one or more sides.

The place where Gilnockie stood is without any doubt a little lower down the Esk than Hollows Tower, at a point where the river makes a serpentine bend and contracts into a narrow, rocky gorge, impossible to ford. Here, at the Carlisle end of Gilnockie Bridge, on the high tongue of rocky land that projects into the stream, are faint but unmistakeable outlines of a large building, with outworks. The position is magnificent--impregnable, in fact, to any force of olden days unprovided with artillery. On three sides the rocky banks drop nearly sheer to the water, and across the root of the tongue are indications of a protecting fosse. It is impossible to imagine a site more perfect for a freebooter's stronghold. To have neglected it, in favour of such a position as that occupied by the Hollows Tower, would have been on the reiver's part to throw away the most obvious of the gifts of Providence. {422}Local tradition has it that Johny had a drawbridge by which, at will, he could cross the river.

Certainly there is a projecting nose of rock just at the narrowest part of the stream, immediately above the present stone bridge, but one would be inclined to doubt if the engineering skill of Scotland in the {423}sixteenth century was equal to the task of constructing a serviceable drawbridge capable of spanning a width so great.

There, is a curious stone that projects _inwards_ from high up in Hollows Tower, the original purpose of which forms to the amateur lover of ancient buildings a quite insolvable puzzle. The stone measures, roughly, from the wall to its tip about three feet in length, and its diameter is perhaps ten or twelve inches. Towards the end farthest from the wall it has a well-marked groove on the upper part and sides, as if heavy weights had frequently been suspended from it by ropes or chains. Its position is on the light of a narrow door that opens two or three feet above the floor-level of the room into which the stone projects, and the stone itself must have been close to the ceiling of the chamber. What was its use? An intelligent but youthful guide, when the writer was at Hollows, suggested with ghoulish delight that it was "a hangin'-stane." But that, surely, would have been wilful waste on the part of the Armstrongs, so long as trees were available. Nor is it likely that they got rid of prisoners in this way with a regularity sufficient to account for the well worn groove in the stone. It does, however, recall Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's feelings, when "at the top of the south-western angle of the Tower [of Neidpath], a large mass of the masonry had fallen, and laid open a chamber roofed with a Gothic arch of stone, from the centre of which swung, vibrating with every heavy gust of wind, an enormous iron ring. To what strange and wild horrors did this not awaken the fancy?"

From a little beyond Hollows Tower, all the way to Langholm you catch through the trees glimpses of hurrying, foamfleckcd streams that speak most eloquently of "sea-trout, rushing at the fly." It has never been the writer's fortune to cast a line in this water, but if looks go for anything the sport must be excellent.

It is impossible to imagine scenery more pleasing than the woody banks that overhang the river as Langholm is {424}approached; and the position of the town itself, nestling amongst beautiful hills, is singularly inviting. Langholm occupies the site of a famous old battle, that of Arkenholm, where in 1454 the power of the Douglas's was finally broken.

In and about the town there is much to interest those whose tastes lean towards archaeology; the whole countryside, indeed, is sprinkled with towers and the remains of towers. In the burgh itself for example, there is what appears to be the remains of an old peel, now forming part of the wing of a hotel; just above the upper bridge are the ruins--the sorely battered ruins--of Langholm Castle, once an Armstrong stronghold; and most beautifully situated on Wauchope Water, just outside the town, is Wauchope Castle, long ago the seat of the Lindsays. Little now is left of the building, practically nothing, indeed, but two small portions of the outer wall on the rocks {425}immediately overhanging the picturesque water of Wauchope. The position must in the days of its pride have been immensely strong, and the scene now is very beautiful.

In close proximity to the castle is an old graveyard, with remains--at least the foundations--of a pre-Reformation church and a few interesting old stones, two, at least, apparently very ancient, if one may judge from the style of sword cut on them. Not far from this are traces of the old Roman Road, and near at hand a stone bridge, also believed to be Roman, once crossed the stream. But it is said--with what truth I know not--to have been destroyed long ago by a Minister, whose care of his flock was such that, to prevent the lads of Langholm strolling that way of an evening, disturbing the peace of mind and pious meditations of his female domestics, he demolished it.

As in the case of Selkirk, and of Hawick, the great festival of the year at Langholm is on the occasion of the Fair and Common Riding. In the Proclamation of the Fair, after a statement of the penalties to be imposed on disturbers of the festival, the curious words occur: "They shall sit down on their bare knees and pray seven times for the King, and thrice for the Muckle Laird o' Ralton." The Laird of Ralton was an illegitimate son of Charles II, but what he had to do with Eskdale, or what is the origin of the words, I have been quite unable to learn.

To go, even superficially, into the history of Langholm and of the interesting and beautiful country surrounding it, would occupy much space, and neither time nor space is available.

Here, amongst the hills and the many waters, we must leave the Border. It is a country whose mountains are seldom grand or awe-inspiring, as in some parts of the Scottish Highlands they may be; its streams do not flow with the rich majesty of Thames, nor with the mighty volume of Tay; and there are, doubtless, rivers possessed of wilder scenery. But to the true Borderer, however long absent he be, into what part {426}soever of the world he may have been driven by the Fates, there are no hills like the Border hills--they are indeed to him "the Delectable Mountains"; there are no waters so loved, none that sing to him so sweetly as Tweed and all the streams of his own land. "If I did not see the heather at least once a year, I think I should die," said Scott. To a greater or less extent it is so with all of us. One of her most loving sons (he who should have guided the course of this volume, and who, had he lived, would have made of it something worthy of the Border), once said, on his return from a visit to famed Killarney: "The beauty of the Irish Lakes is rather that of the Professional Beauty. When one comes back to the Border, there one finds the same beauty one used to see in the face of one's mother, or of one's old nurse." And: "I am never so happy as when I cross the Tweed at Berwick from the South," he writes in an Introduction to Mr. Charles Murray's "Plamewith." It was not only his own, but, I think, every Borderer's sentiments that he voiced when he wrote:

"Brief are man's days at best; perchance

I waste my own, who have not seen

The castled palaces of France

Shine on the Loire in summer green.

"And clear and fleet Eurotas still,

You tell me, laves his reedy shore,

And flows beneath his fabled hill

Where Dian drave the chase of yore.

"And 'like a horse unbroken' yet

The yellow" stream with rush and foam,

'Neath tower, and bridge, and parapet,

Girdles his ancient mistress, Rome!

"I may not see them, but I doubt

If seen I'd find them half so fair

As ripples of the rising trout

That feed beneath the elms of Yair.

"Unseen, Eurotas, southward steal,

Unknown, Alpheus, westward glide,

You never heard the ringing reel,

The music of the water side!

"Though Gods have walked your woods among,

Though nymphs have fled your banks along;

You speak not that familiar tongue

Tweed murmurs like my cradle song.

"My cradle song,--nor other hymn

I'd choose, nor gentler requiem dear

Than Tweed's, that through death's twilight dim,

Mourned in the latest Minstrel's ear!"

His love of the Border hills, "the great, round-backed, kindly, solemn hills of Tweed, Yarrow, and Ettrick," his devotion to the streams beside whose banks the summers of his boyhood were spent, never lessened with the passing years. In prose and in verse continually it broke out. Tweed's song is the same that she has ever sung; but now--

"He who so loved her lies asleep,

He hears no more her melody."

INDEX

A

Abbey St. Bathans, 028
Abbot of Inchcolm, 093
Abbotsford, 178, 227, 230, 245, 261, 384
Agricola, 212
Aidan, Bishop, 216
Ale, 033, 126, 169, 172, 280
Alemuir, 176, 286
Alexander II., 004, 091, 255
III., 004, 091, 255, 337
Allanbank,008
Allanton, 008
Allan Water, 107, 197
Allen Water, 235
Allevard, 021
Altrive, 305
Ancrum, 033, 126, 129, 169
Moor, 102, 169
Anderson, Alexander, 295
Angus, Earl of, 102, 169, 229
Annan, 375
"Antiquary, The" 25, 084
Argyll, 053
Arkenholm, 424
Armstrong, Johnny, 197, 418
Armstrong of Harelaw, Hector, 413
Armstrongs, 144, 197, 388, 401, 406
Arran, Earl of, 102, 170
Artburet, 351, 404
Arthur's Oven, 347
Arundel, Earl of, 092
Ashiesteel, 237, 322
Ashkiik, 174
Auld Babby Metlan, 213
Auld Maitland, 213
Auld Ringan Oliver, 136
Auld Wat of Harden, 278
Ayala, 052

B

Badlieu, 371
Bairds, 346
Baillie, Lady Grisell, 043
Bale-fires, 023
Ballad of Otterburne, 153
Ballantyne, James, 078
Balliol, 006
Edward, 092
Barmoor, 051
Barnhill's Bed, 181
Barns, 345
Battle Stone, 162
Bawtie's Grave, 020
Beaton, Cardinal, 170, 171
Beauté, Sieur de la, 020
Bedrule, 182
Bellenden, 286
Felted Will Howard, 409, 413
Bemersyde, 209
Berwick, 003, 025, 048, 098, 113, 269
Berwickshire Naturalists' Club,
Bewcastle, 178, 410
Cross, 413
Bield, The, 359
Biggar, 353
Moss, 354
Water, 353
Billie, 013
Billy Castle, 017
Binram's Corse, 298
Bird-Oswald, 409
Bishop Flambard, 047
Boghall Castle, 353
Bogle Burn, 217
Bohun, Humphrey de, 004
Boldside, 233, 245, 150, 069, 165
Bonny Bertha, 371
Borland, Rev. Dr., 307
Borthwick Water, 190, 280
Castle, 106
Boston of Ettrick, 287
Bothan, 028
Bothwell (Hepburn), Earl of, 052, 085, 106, 215
(Stewart), Earl of, 135, 385
Brig, 137
Bowden Moor, 229
"Bowed Davie," 343
Bowerhope, 298
Bowhill, 231, 273, 318
Bow mont, 048
Valley, 149
Box-beds, 303
Blackadder, 008, 032, 039
Blackcastle Rings, 039
Black Dwarf, 343
Black Hill of Earlstoun, 144
Blackhouse Heights, 346
Tower, 297
Black Law, 144, 346
Black, William, 359, 374
Blair, Rev. Thos., 061
Blanerne, 013
Blind Harry, 354
Bloody Laws, 088
Braidley Burn, 107
Brampton, 409
Branksome, 002, 174, 179, 192
Hall, 194
Branxton, 051
Braxfield, Lord, 355
Breamish, 048
Bremenium, 088, 142, 164, 166
Brewster, Sir David, 188
"Bride of Lammermuir," 346
Bridgelands, 260
Bridgend, 227
Broadlaw, 144, 352
Broadmeadows, 038
Broomhouse, 020
Brougham, Lord, 061
Broughton, 355
Brown, Dr. John, 354
Brownies, 031
"Brownie of Bodesbeck," 291, 369
Bruce, David, 068, 415
Robert the, 067, 092, 208, 347, 375
Buccleuch, 002, 195, 286
Duke of, 196, 208, 305, 316, 385
Hunt, 222
Lairds of, 134, 179, 194, 229, 392, 394, 395
Buchan, Earl of, 208
Buchanan, George, 067, 106, 112
Bunkle, 013, 015
Burghley, 135
Buried Treasure, 056, 088
Burke and Hare, 250
"Burke, Sir Walter!" 090
Burns, Robert, 118, 123
Byrecleuch Ridge, 030

C

Caddonfoot, 222, 322
Cademuir, 347
Caerlanrig, 197
Caledon, 352
Camps, 128
Camptown, 141
Cannobie Lea, 416
Canonbie, 418
Capel Fell, 287
"Capon Tree," 125
Cappercleucb, 300
Cardrona, 340
Carey, 135
Cargill, Rev. Donald, 137, 368
Carham, 003
Burn, 048
Carlin's Tooth, 143, 152
Carlisle, 077, 115, 117, 150, 152, 392, 408
Castle, 144, 392
Carmichael, Sir John, 144
Carter Bar, 141, 148
Carterfell, 129, 136, 143, 166
Carterhaugh, 273
Castlebill, 348
Castleton, 387
Catcleuch Reservoir, 141
Shin, 141, 166
Catrail, 002, 041, 231, 379
Cauldcleuch Head, 107, 144
Cauldshiels Loch, 233
Cavers, 072, 184
Caves, 126, 134
Cecil, Sir W., 037, 134
Cessford, 086
Cockburn Law, 026
Thomas, 022
of Henderland, 198, 299
Cockburns, 020
Coldstream, 056
Guards, 050
Collingwood Bruce, Dr., 165
Collingwood, Sir Cuthbert, 147
Colting woods, 145
Colmslie, 235
Commonsiae Hill, 002
Cope, Sir John, 005, 035, 077
Corbridge, 005
Coultercleuch, 280
Cout o' Keilder, 383
Covenanters, 007, 035, 137, 293, 359, 365, 370
Cowdenknowes, 289
Ciudad Rodrigo, 266
Chambers, Dr. Robert 104, 302
Dr. William, 338
Channelkirk, 217
Chapel Knowe, 165
Charles I., 077
Chesters (Berwickshire), 042
(Roxburghshire), 168
Cheviot, 144
Cheviots, 001, 088, 142, 151, 212
Chillingham, 050
Chimside, 007, 015
Chronicle of Lanercost, 004
Churchill, 006
Clandestine Weddings, 060, 402
Clarty Hole, 231
Claverhouse, 359, 365, 369
Clear burn Loch, 286
Cleikum Inn, 339
Clerk of Eldin, John, 353
Clints Dod, 030
Clintwood, 387
Clovenfords, 322
Clyde, 353
Crab, 005
Craigmillar, 023, 113
Crailing, 087, 126
Cranshaws, 030
Crawford, 052
Cromwell, 022, 056, 316, 338, 343, 3S3, 371, 387
Crook-backed Richard, 005
Crook Inn., 357
Crooked Loch, 286
Cumberland, 025
Curie, Mr., 212

D

Dacre, 053, 074, 098, 130
Dalkeith, 025, 152, 257
Dandie Dinmont, 377, 381
D'Arcy, Sir Anthony, 020
Darnick, 227
Tower, 227
Darnley, 085, 213, 330, 347, 365
D'Aussi, 052
David I., 066, 073, 081, 084, 091
David, Earl, 255
Dawstane Rig, 378
Dawyck, 347, 348
Woods, 351
Debateable Land, 403
De Beaugué, M., 131
De Bolbec, Walter, 383
"Degenerate Douglas," 341
De Grey, Sir Thomas, 048
Deil o' Dawyck, 349
De la Mothe Rouge, 133
Deloraine, 280
William of, 174, 281
Denham Tracts, 066
Denholm, 119, 179
De Soulis, 382, 387, 4x5
D'Espec, Walter, 066
D'Essé, Sieur, 129, 132
Deuchar Bridge, 309
Devil's Beef Tub, 375
Dick Lauder, Sir Thomas, 008, 017, 035, 059, 172, 233, 241,
259, 327, 336, 358, 423
Dick's Tree, 399
Differences with Prisoners, 266
Dinlabyre, 387
Dodhead, 178, 280
Dog Knowe, 115
Dogs in Church, 308
Dollar Law, 144, 346
Donald's Cleuch, 368
"Doo Tairts and Herrin' Pies," 83
Douglas, Archibald, 072
Douglas Burn, 072, 297
Douglas, Earl, 072, 149, 153
of Kelhead, Sir John, 355
Rev. Dr., 231
Sir George, 071
Sir George, 170
Sir James, 080, 092, 125, 128, 347, 375
Tragedy, 297
Douglas's Wounded, 165
Douglases, 072, 145
Dowie Dens of Yarrow, 072, 311
Drochil Castle, 347
Drumclogj 137
Drum lan rig, 118
Drummelzier, 348, 350
Dryburgh Abbey, 206, 220
Drygrange, 212, 222
Dry hope Tower, 305
Dunbar, 056, 101, 113, 150, 152
Castle, 020, 086
Earl of, 030
Dumbarton Castle, 382
Dunion, 144, 176
Dunkeld, 137
Duns, 015, 026, 044
Law, 046
Scotus, 044
Durham, 153
Bishop of, 158, 160
Cathedral, 216
Dussac, 133
Dye Water, 029

E

Earlsihe Moor, 107
Earlstoun, 016, 217
Eden (Carlisle), 393
Water, 008, 033, 057, 064
Edie Ochiltree, 084
Edgar, 035
Burn, 035
Edgerston, 141, 144
Edinburgh, 056, 152, 159, 198, 212, 261, 292
299, 333, 349
Edington, 008
Edinshall, 008, 027
Ednam, 008
Edrington Castle, 007
Edrom, 008, 015
Edward I., 056, 058, 069, 208, 214, 255, 379 409
II., 005, 048, 069, 208, 255
III., 005, 068, 069, 092
VI., 169. 316
Eildon Hills, 142, 144, 212, 221, 224, 231, 245
Eildon Tree, 217
Eital Castle, 050
Elba, 027
Elcho, Lord, 118
Elibank, 327
Eliott of Stobs, Sir Gilbert, 119
Elizabeth, Queen, 398, 416
Elliot of Cleuchhead, Dr., 384
Jean, 181
Elliots, 145
Ellison, Mr., 163
Ellwand, 235
Elsdon Church, 167
Emperor Alexander Severus, 165
Ernckstane, 375
Errol, 052
Erskine, Lord, 402
Esk, 407, 416
Ettrick, 002, 176, 231, 245, 252, 263, 271, 288
Bank, 249
Ettrickbridgend, 278
Ettrick Hall, 287, 290
Kirk, 287
Pen, 287
Shepherd, 121, 283, 278, 288
Evelaw Tower, 035
Evers, Lord (Sir Ralph), 100, 170, 171, 227
Eye Water, 088

F

"Fair Maiden Lilliard," 172
Fairies, belief in, 056, 181
Fairnilee, 271, 319
Fairy Dene, 235
Falaise, Treaty of, 004
Falkirk, Battle of, 255
Falla Moss, 371
False alarm, 025
Fast Castle, 086
Father Ellis, 126
Fat Ups Castle, 180
Faungrist Burn, 039
Fenwick, Sir Roger, 129
Fenwicke, Colonel, 022
Ferguson, Adam, 343
Fernihirst, 128, 130, 134, 137
Mill, 136
Flemings, 353
Fluimen, 049, 059, 255
Flodden Edge, 048, 050
Fogo, 033
Ford Castle, 049
Forest of Ettrick, 255
Jedworth, 129, 131
Forster, Sir John, 144
Foulshiels, 039, 314
Floors Castle, 071
Flower of Yarrow, 305
Flowers of the Forest, 181, 319
Franck, Richard, 007
Fraser, Sir Simon, 341, 348
Frasers of Fruid and Oliver, 340
French Invasion, 024
Prisoners in Selkirk, 258
Froissart, 115, 149, 157
Fruid, 357

G

Gala, 094, 237, 241
Gala Rig, 272
Galashiels, 094, 224, 233, 237, 248
"Galashiels Herons," 084
Galashiels Town's Arms, 240
Gamelshiel, 030
Gameshope Burn, 357, 370
Glen, 363, 370
Loch, 369, 370
Gamescleuch, 287
Garter, Countess of Salisbury's, 069
Gemmels, Andrew, 084
Giant's Stone, 371
Gibb's Cross, 035
Gilnockie, 197, 418
Bridge, 421
Gjlsland, 409
Girthgate, 236
Godscroft, 158
Goldielands, 191
Gordon Arms, 305
Glendearg, 235
Glengaber, 001
Glenkinnon Burn, 324
Glenrath Burn, 346
Graham, Sir James. 417
Grahams, 405, 416
Greatmoor Hill, 107
Greenlaw, 041
Gretna Green, 060, 402
Grey Friars, 141
Grey Mare's Tail, 303
Guizot, M., 059
"Guy Mannering," 380

H

Hahhie Ker's Cave, 126
Haggiehaugh, 078
Haig of Bemersyde, 209
Haining, 255, 259, 265
Halidon Hill, 005, 053
Hall, Hobbie, 087
Henry, 087, 137
Halliburton, Wm,, 067
Hailyards, 343
Hangingshaw, 038, 313
Happrew, 348
Harden, 192
Harecleuch Hill, 032
Hare head, 030
Harelaw, 035
Harewood, 317
Hartlaw, 035
Hartshorn Pyke, 143
Hassendean, 178
Hawick, 094, 107, 185, 381
"Minister's Alan," 117
Mote, 191
Hawkshead Burn, 371
Castle, 371
Hay of Yester, 341
of Talla, 085
Hearthstane Burn, 357
Hellmuir Loch, 286
Hemingburgh, 005
Henderland, 298
Henderson, Willie, 179
Henry I., 066
III., 069
VIII., 004, 049, 074, 099, 132, 169, 170, 177, 197, 208
Hepburn of Bowton, 085
of Hailes, 030
Hermitage Castle, 072, 085, 107, 382
Water, 107, 380, 381
Heron, Lady, 049
Heronry at Dawyck, 351
Herries, 053
Herrit's Dyke, 041
Hertford, 013, 037, 044, 074, 100, 102
129, 132, 141, 170, 227, 287
Hexham, 145
Hielandman's Grave, 116
Hill Burton, 074
Hiltslap, 235
Hindside, 035
Hirsel, The, 060
Hodgson, Richard, 069
Hogg, James, 206, 213, 278, 290, 297, 303, 305
Hollows lower, 419
Holydene, 041, 126, 229
Holylee, 327
Home Castle, 020, 022, 023, 113
Home, Sir David, 020
Family of, 017, 020, 212
Grisell, 042
Lord, 008, 020, 022, 051, 060, 229, 257
of Haliburton, 044
of Polwarth, Patrick, 041
Homildon Hill, 055
Hoolet of Barns, 345
Hornsbole, 187
Horsburgh, 330
Hotspur's Pennon, 184
Howpasley, 192
Howard, Edmund, 053
Edward, 053
Hundalee, 126
Hunsdon, Lord, 037, 134
Hunter, John, 362
Hunthill, 128, 129, 134
"Huntlie Bank," 219
Huntly, Earl of, 052, 106
Hutton Hall, 008
Hyndhope, 280

I

Illicit Stills, 116
Innerleithen, 327

J

James I., 337, 342
II., 023, 067, 080
III., 005
IV., 048, 049, 281
V., 178, 197, 229, 282, 287, 406
VI. and I., 006, 067, 305, 353, 413, 416
"Jamie Telfer, 377, 192, 280, 410
Jed, 033, 078, 094, 124, 152, 166
Jedburgh, 023, 078, 090, 114, 119, 126, 131, 171, 222
Abbey, 092, 095, 102, 113
Castle, 092, 093
Prison, 123
Jedforest Hunt, 129
"Jethart's here!", 100, 146
John, King, 004
John's Cleuch, 030

K

Kale Water, 084, 087, 126, 166
Kelso, 026, 033, 061, 064, 071, 113, 114, 126, 222, 267
Abbey, 074, 084
Ker, Dand, 086
of Cessford, 069, 087, 229
of Pernihirst, 008, 069, 229
of Graden, 078
of Samuelton, George, 008
Sir Andrew, 135
Sir John, 132
Sir Thomas, 130
Kershope Burn, 392
Kerss, Rob., 205
Killiecrankie, 137
"Kilmeny" 271
King Arthur, 244, 347
"King of the Woods," 125
Kingledores Burn, 357
Kingside, 286
Kinmont Willie, 179, 392, 399
Kirk Andrews, 416
Kirk o' Field, 085
Kirkhope Lînn, 278
Tower, 278
Kirk Sessions, 062
Knight of Liddesdale, 246, 326, 383
Knox, John, 052, 214

L

Lacy, Richard de, 004
Lads of Wamphray, 089
Lady of Branksome, 194
"Lady of the Lake," 322
Ladykirk, 048
Laidlaw, Will, 213, 297
of Peel, 324
Laiton, 170, 227
Lammermuirs, 007, 029, 144, 212, 216
Lanercost, 409
Langholm, 418, 424
Castle, 424
Langshaw, 235
Langton Tower, 020
Lanton Village, 093
Tower, 128
Larriston, 078, 185
Lauder, French Prisoners at, 270
Bridge, 005
Lauderdale, Earl of, 045, 213, 216
Lawson, Rev. Dr., 263
"Lay of the Last Minstrel, 192, 281, 322
Leader Water, 041, 212
Leaderfoot, 222
Le Croc. M., 111
Leet Water, 057
Legerwood, 016, 041
Lei then, 328
Lennox, 053
Leslie, Bishop of Ross, 151
General, 038, 046, 056, 254
Norman, 170
Lessudden, 026, 206
Lethem, 165
Lethington, 216
Mr. Secretary, 107
Leyden, John, 179, 190, 247, 322
Liddel Castle, 357
Moat, 415
Valley, 152
Water, 078, 116, 152, 380, 386, 393
Liddesdale, 115, 144, 150,152,178,378, 380
Lilliardsedge, 169, 222
Lirnekilnedge, 381
Lincumdoddie, 356
Lindean, 246, 252
Lindisfarne, Bishop of, 097
Lindsay, Sir James, 158
Linglie, 249, 252
Lintalee, 092, 125, 128
Lin thill House, 018
Linton, 084
Tower, 085
Lion of Liddesdale, 078
Littledean, 206
"Little Jock Elliot," 106, 387
Loch of the Lowes, 292, 301
Skene, 369
Lockhart, J. G., 206, 208, 232, 353, 380
Longtown, 152, 399
Lord Maxwell's Muster Roll, 401
Lost Pay Chest, 038
Lothian, Lord, 135, 138
Marquess of, 103
Lumsden, Margaret, 045
Lyne Water, 347

M

Maccus Whele, 073
Mackay, 137
"Mad" Jack Hall, 162
Maid of Norway, 005
Maitland of Lethington, 214
Makerstoun, 204, 222
Malcolm II., 003, 048
IV., 236
The Maiden, 001
Mangerton Castle, 390
Manor Kirkyard, 344
Valley, 343
Water, 345
Manslaughter Law, 029
Marchmont, Earl of, 022, 041
House, 042
Alarmion, 051, 055, 094, 322
Marquis of Annandale's Beef Stand, 375
Mary of Gueldres, 023, 081
Guise, 214
Mary Queen of Scots, 023, 052, 074, 104, 169,
194, 208, 250, 330, 408
Mathieson, 322
Maxwell, 053
Sir Herbert, 002, 030, 072, 084, 169, 176, 338
Sir John, 158
Meg Dods, 339
Megget, 300
Melrose, 071, 166, 170, 225, 235
Abbey, 163, 172, 256
Melville of Halhill, Sir James, 112
Menzion, 357
Merlin, 351
Merse, 021, 048, 134, 144
Mertoun, 206
Bridge, 220
Midlem Bridge, 172
Miles, Sir George Heron, 147
Milnholm Cross, 390
Minchmuir, 002, 038
Minto, 180
Crags, 144, 180
Moffat, 369, 373, 375
"Monastery, The" 227, 233, 235
Monk, General, 059
Monks' Ford, 220
Monk law, 128
Monmouth, Duke of, 196
Anne, Duchess of, 316
Mons Meg, 048, 080
Montague, Sir William, 068
Montgomery, Earl of, 158
Montrose, Marquis of, 002, 038, 076, 254
Moray, Earl of, 106
Countess of, 112
Morebattle, 086
Morton, Earl of, 147
Regent, 367
Mossburnfoot, 126
Mossfennan, 336
Muckle Mouthed Meg, 327
Murray of Broughton, 355
Sir David, 355
Sir Gideon, 327
of Philiphaugh, Sir John, 247
Musgrave, Sir William, 405
Muthag, Provost, 272
Mutiny Stones, 030

N

Naesmiths, 346
Napier and Ettrick, Lord, 055, 387
Napoleon, 024, 262
Naworth, 409
Neidpath Hill, 322
Castle, 337, 342
Netherby, 416
Nett ley Burn, 249
Neville's Cross, 415
Newark Tower, 278, 315
Newcastle, 077, 141, 145, 159, 160, 203
Newcastleton, 387
Newstead, 142, 166, 212, 224
Newton Don, 064
Nine Cairn Edge, 216
Niue Stane Rig, 381
Norfolk, 074
Norham, 004, 047
North, Christopher, 301
Note o' the Gate, 115, 378
Notman Law, 346

O

Oakwood Tower, 276
Ogle, Sir James, 147
Sir Robert, 067, 069
Old Jedward, 128
Mailros, 028
Melrose, 212, 213, 222
"Old Mortality," 362
"Old Q," 341
Oliver, Auld Ringan, 136
Oliver Castle, 359
Ormistoun, 035, 086
Otterburne, 072, 149, 170
Village, 162
Hall, 164
Ottercops, 149
Outlaw Murray, 035, 313
Oxnam Water, 087, 126, 166

P

Park, Archibald, 315
Mungo. 314, 326
Pearlin, Jean, 008
"Peblis to the Play," 339
Peebles, 309, 330, 334, 336, 340, 349
Peel Burn, 152, 379
Fell, 001, 143, 379
Penchrise, 001, 176, 280
Pennecuîck, Dr., 342, 353
Pennistone Knowe, 292
Penshiel, 030
Penton, 415
Linn, 407, 415
Percy, 040
Earl, 153, 161
Henry, 092
Ralph, 158
Percy's Cross, 162
Philiphaugh, 002, 038
Piets' Work Dyke, 379
Pinkie, 056
Piper's Pool, 254
Pitcairn's Criminal Priais, 086
Pitscottie, 051, 081, 198, 282
Plague, The, 246
Plummer of Sunderland Hall, 257
Poachers, 173, 242, 254
Pollution of Rivers, 094, 095, 185, 237, 238, 252, 327
Polmood, 356
Burn, 357
Polwarth, 042
Lord, 192
Porteous of Hawkshaw, 371
Possessed Woman in Duns, 045
Posso, 345, 347
Craigs, 346
Pot Loch, 259
Powsayl Burn, 351
"Pride and Poverty !", 083
Priesthaugh Burn, 107
Prince Charlie, 077, 078, 114, 115, 126, 409
Prisoners' Bush, 260
Theatre, 268
Proclamation of St. James's Fair, 082
Purdie, Tom, 322

Q

Queen Mary's House, 104
Illness, 109
Queen's Mire, 108
"Queens Wake" 121
Queensberry, Duke of, 118

R

Raecleuch, 035
Raid of the Reidswire, 244
Ramsay, Sir Alexander, 383
Rev. Mr., 064
Randall's Wa's, 347
Randolph, 347
Rankleburo, 002, 286
Raven Burn, 152
Craig, 031
Redbraes, 042
Redesdale, 141, 145
R de Valley, 088, 115, 141, 161
"Redgauntlet", 375, 417
Regiment, 94th, 266
Renwick, 292
Richard, King, 004
II., 208
Richmond, Sir Thos., 125
Riddell, 174
Rink, 002, 245, 249
Riskinhope, 292
Rivalry between Kelso and Jedburgh, 082
Rob o' the Trows, 205
Robert II., 208
Rhymer's Glen, 219, 231
Roman Road, 088
Rory dhu Mohr, 137
Rothely Crags, 149
Rowchester, 142
Roxburgh, 023, 067, 126
Castle, 078, 092, 149
Newtown, 085
Roxburghe, Duke of, 071
Ruberslaw, 144, 183, 212
Rule Water, 107, 177, 212
Ruskin, John, 094, 230
Russell, Sir Francis, 147
Russell of Yarrow, Rev. Drs., 281, 298
Rutherford, 206
Alison, 319
Rev. John, 308
"Rutherfurd Bauld," 146
Rutherfurd, Captain, 123
Rutherfurds, 141
Ruthven, Lord, 134

S

St. Ahb's Head, 025
St. Andrews, Bishops of, 049
St. Boswells, 078, 206
Green, 221
St. Cuthbert, 206, 216, 357
St. Gordian's Kirk, 344, 347
St. James's Fair, 081
St. Kentigern, 382
St. Mary of the Lowes, 177, 295
St. Mary's Chapel, 296
St. Mary's Loch, 287
St. Ronan's, 327
"St. Ronan's Well," 339
Salisbury, Earl of, 068
Salmon, 209
fishing, 222
Sandyknowe, 211
Sark Bridge, 402
Tower, 401
Satcheils, 176
"Savoury Mr. Peden," 183
Scabcleuch, 292
Scots Brigade, 266
Scots Dyke, 418
Scott, Adam of Tushielaw, 282, 299
Sir John, 287
Lady John, 087
Mary, "the Flower of Yarrow," 305
Scott, Michael, 256, 276
Sir Walter, 002, 025, 038, 051, 068, 078, 083, 118,
144, 174, 179, 180, 198, 206, 208, 227,
236, 257, 305, 322, 325, 339,
343, 347, 353, 355. 369, 380, 384, 399, 419
Scott, Sir Walter and the Border Minstrelsy, 213
Scott of Gorrenberry, 117
of Tushielaw, 213
Scotts of Buccleuch, 071, 102, 144, 170, 192, 195, 286, 384
of Harden, 276, 327
Scrope, 174, 222
Lord, 397, 398, 400, 416
Selkirk, 026, 172, 231, 247, 249, 252, 269, 388
Cauld, 253
Common Riding, 270
"Selkirk Craws," 084
Selkirk Flodden Traditions, 256
Prison, 123
Selkirkshire Yeomanry, 257
Shaftoes, 145
Shielhope Head, 346
Shrewsbury, Lord, 130
Sidney, Sir Philip, 149
Sinclair, Oliver, 404
Singlie, 280
Skelfhill, 001, 002, 176, 280, 382
Skene of Rubislaw, 369
Skirmish Field, 229
Skraysburgh, 101, 128
Slain Man's Lea, 315
Slitrjg, 001, 107, 188, 280, 381
Smailcleuchfoot, 136
Smailholme Tower, 144, 209
Snow Storm of 1831, 373
Solway Moss, 403, 406, 418
Somerset, 022, 127, 130
"Soor Plums in Galashiels," 240
Soulis, Lord, 381
"Souters of Selkirk," 53, 257
Southdean, 033, 148, 150, 165, 167, 380
Soutra Hill, 236, 241
Spirit of Borderers, 025
Spottisw'oode, 217
Springwood Park, 071, 072
Spy at Southdean, 151
Stanhope, 355
Burn, 357
Stanley, 053
Stephen, King, 069
Stewart of Stewartfield, Colonel, 119
Stobo, 016, 348
Stobs Camp, 381
Stoddart, 034, 057
Stow, 244
Stuart, Lady Louisa, 333
Sir Robert, 008
Sunderland Hall, 249, 257
Sunlaws, 126
"Superstitions, Teviotdale, 121
Surrey, Earl of, 051, 054, 068, 097, 129, 130
Sussex, Earl of, 023, 037, 066, 134, 186
"Sweet Leader Haughs," 217
"Sweet Milk" Robin, 177
Swinnie Moor, 107
Synton, 175, 285

T

Tall, a, 352, 357, 363
Linn, 360, 365
Reservoir, 357
Tarth Water, 347
Telfer, James, 136
"Teribus and Teriodden," 186
Teviot, 001, 033, 078, 094, 126, 166, 169, 176,
179, 193, 203, 280
Teviotdale, 016, 134, 144, 178, 181, 388
"The Eve of St. John, 209
The Great Unknown, 261
"The Young Tantieme273
Three Brethren, 271, 320
"Three days' blood," 089
Thiefs Road. 346
Thirlestane (Patrick), 287
Castle (Lauderdale), 045
Thomas of Ercildoune, 217
Thomas the Rhymer, 076, 209, 217, 353
Thomson, James, 033, 124, 172
Thornilee, 327
Tibbie Shiels, 291, 301
Tamson, 271
Till, 048, 050
Timpendean, 169
Tinnies, 348, 350
Tinnis (Yarrow), 038
Torsonce, 244
Torwoodlee, 002, 041, 243
Turn Again, 178, 232
Turnbulls of Rule Water, 145, 177
Tushielaw, 002, 281, 289
Traquair, 305, 330
Countess of, 333
Earl of, 038, 254, 331
Trout-fishing, 220, 241
"True Thomas," 217, 219, 319
Tweed, 002, 3, 048, 173, 204, 212, 222, 231,
237, 245, 271 309, 319, 347, 357, 371, 375, 377
Tweeddale, Lord, 341
Tweed Shaws, 372
Tweed's Cross, 372
Well, 372
Tweedsmuir, 301, 340, 357, 371
Church, 361
Kirk Session Records, 362
Post Office, 359
"Tweed" Trade, 239
Tweedys, 349
Twin Law Cairns, 029
Twizell Bridge, 051

V

Veitch, Professor, 167, 342, 347
Veitchs of Dawyck, 348

W

Wade, Marshall, 077
Waich Water, 029
Walkerburn, 327
Wallace, Sir William, 208, 354
Wamphray, 089
Wark Castle, 050, 057, 066, 134, 149
Water-Bull, 234
Wauchope, 425
Castle, 424
Wedale, 244
Wedderlie, 035
"Weir of Hermiston, 355
Weirdlaw Hill, 235
Well of the Holy Water Cleuch, 216
Wheeling Head, 132
Whele Causeway, 115, 150, 379
Chapel, 379
Whitadder, 007
White, Mr. Robert, 163
Whithaugh Mill, 116
Whitterhope Burn, 381
Will's Nick, 254
Will of Phaup, 280, 288
William the Lion, 004, 048, 091, 255, 330
le Walleys, 348
Williamhope Ridge, 325
Willie of Westburnflat, 387
Windburgh Hill, 144, 188
Wind Pell, 287
Windy Law, 286
Winter, Jamie, 043
Witch of Fauldshope, 277
"Witch of Fife," 121
Woifstruther, 035
Wooler, 051, 078, 149
Wordsworth, 118, 341
Wortnscleuch Burn, 379

Y

YAIR, 176, 250, 319
Bridge, 249, 318
Cauld, 249
Yarrow, 002, 038, 039, 094, 176, 273, 287, 292, 294
Dowie Dens of, 072, 311
Kirk, 306, 309
Manse, 306
Yetholm, 149, 150
Young Hay of Talla, 364

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Highways and Byways in the BorderChapter XVIII: Bewcastle, Liddel Moat, Netherby, Kirk Andrews, Gilnockie,

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