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Chapter III: Part 3

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perhaps the most interesting ecclesiastical edifice in the county. On the site there stood in the eleventh century a timber church, built by Siward, a Saxon nobleman, and dedicated to St. Peter. In the last quarter of that century Odilirius, “a lover of justice,” who had possession of the humble structure, counselled Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, to build a monastery. The Earl consented, and in 1083 the monastery or abbey was built, and consecrated to St. Peter and St. Paul. St. Paul, however, was served rather scurvily, for the Earl gave the whole of the suburb—then denominated _Before Yette_—to “the blessed Peter.” The abbey was splendidly endowed by the Earl and by Siward, and in consideration of the endowments the monks were “to diligently pray for their souls, and for the souls of their ancestors and heirs.” These endowments were added to from time to time by several other benefactors, with the same object. Thus Warine, the sheriff of the county gave several hides of land for the salvation of his soul; and after his death, lest he should be in jeopardy, his widow gave her house for his effectual security. Warine’s brother, Reginald, gave a village; Herbert de Ferches a farm; Gerrard de Tourney a village; Randulph de Gernon, Earl of Chester, two houses; and Hugh Pantulf his mills at Sutton “for the salvation of his soul, the soul of his wife, and each of their souls.” These benefactions vastly increased the riches of the abbey, and in consequence of its revenue the abbots were mitred and elevated to the privilege of a seat in the Upper House of Parliament. The value of the monastery was, according to Dugdale, £132 4s. 10d., to Speed £615 4s. 3d. In the twenty-sixth year of Henry VII. the annual income was £572 15s. 5d., a revenue equal to about £4,750 of modern currency. At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries the abbey was suppressed, and the estates and buildings passed into lay hands. Some were sold for the value of the materials, and others were converted into dwellings. Odericus Vitalis, one of the earliest and best of English historians, was educated at this monastery, whither he was sent by his father, priest at Atcham, where he was born in 1074.

In 1728 an incident capable of a modern application occurred here. The clergyman of the parish presented a petition to the bishop praying for the removal out of the church of a picture representing the Saviour upon the cross. The petitioners presented a counter petition; but their memorial failed, and the bishop ordered the picture to be removed. This dispute between the vicar and his flock caused a great sensation, and gave occasion to a number of lampoons. The parishioners attacked the vicar in this style:

_The Parson’s the man_
_Let him say what he can_
_Will for gain leave his God in the lurch_;
_Could Iscariot do more_
_Had it been in his power_
_Than to turn his Lord out of the church_.

The clerical party replied with a good argument:—

_The Lord I adore_
_Is mighty in power_,
_The one only living and true_;
_But that Lord of yours_
_Which was turned out of doors_,
_Had just as much knowledge as you_.

_But since you bemoan_
_This God of your own_,
_Cheer up my disconsolate brother_:
_Though it seems very odd_,
_Yet if this be your God_
_Mr. Burley _{51}_ can make you another_.

At the suppression of monasteries in the time of Henry VIII, the entire eastern portion, which constituted two-thirds of the structure, was destroyed. There are remains, however, sufficient to indicate its massiveness and majesty. The most prominent of these is the broad western tower which presents a stately, dignified appearance. There are also the nave and the side aisles; and these with the tower form the present church, which, though with evidences of mutilation, has a venerable aspect, and is characterised by “a noble simplicity combined with a massive solidity.” The three windows are all at present of the Perpendicular style; but there are prints of older date which show the two smaller to have been of a different character. The portal is a deeply recessed semicircular arch, terminating in a pointed doorway. The bellchamber has two windows on each side; between those of the western front, in a canopied niche, is the statue of an armed knight, having a conical basinet encircled by a crown. This figure is with good reason supposed to represent Edward III. in whose reign the tower was probably begun. The south doorway is plain Norman in character, resting on slender shafts, and adjoining is the ruined wall of the transept. The choir having been destroyed the eastern end now terminates in a wall run up between the remains of the two western piers, which supported the central tower. Of course, in the interior the altar stands here, above which are placed Norman windows, containing six figures in stained glass of kings and apostles. They are deep and brilliant in colour, and the drawing is good. Below is a reredos, forming a series of five Norman arches.

The interior of the Abbey is a fine specimen of solid Norman work. The whole is in the massive Norman style except what is beyond the three semicircular arches westward, where there is a very wide pier, on the eastern and western extremities of which are half columns of the arcades, and in the middle is attached a flat pilaster. From hence the nave displays the commencement of a different style, and the Norman gives place to pure Gothic of the fourteenth century. This terminates in a beautiful pointed arch, which divides the tower from the nave, and by the removal of the organ gallery and screen the whole extent of the great western window is now displayed, which certainly imparts a very striking appearance to that portion of the building. The entire window is filled with a series of armorial bearings of some of England’s ancient peerage, as well as a few very modern. It is, in fact, a perfect study of heraldry. There are several monuments of interest, but the most singular is one which stands on the north side of the altar, which at the first view presents the appearance of two tombs, but on examination proves to be only one, the double appearance being given by a centre buttress, which is not carried over the ledge, upon which rest two figures, the head of the one at the feet of the other. They are supposed to represent the “same” individual who had abandoned the military for the eremitical life, but there is not the slightest clue to his name.

The walls of the nave, with the pillars and arches, were, in 1855, cleared of their plaster covering; but such a state of dilapidation was developed as to necessitate a thorough restoration, which has been carefully and effectually carried out. It may be proper to mention that on the fall of St. Chad’s, and the demolition of St. Alkmund’s, the walls of which “were in such a sound state as to require a very great amount of labour to remove them,” several ancient monuments found a place within the walls of the Abbey.

Of the monastic remains there are only “few and far between.” On the south-west of the church is a malthouse which is supposed to have been part of the monks’ infirmary and chapel. A similar building which stood near the street, and a dormitory attached to the south-west side of the church were taken down in 1836 for the formation of a new line of road. The most striking of the remains is the elegant octagonal STONE PULPIT, in a yard on the right. It is thought to have stood within the refectory, and to have been used as the lectern by the junior monks to read from while the elder brethren were enjoying meals in the dining-room. The interior forms an oriel, the roof being vaulted on eight delicate ribs.

From hence we take the road upwards, and call to mind in our walk two notable but not pleasant incidents. The first goes as far back as 1582, in which year, on February 4th, one John Prestige “was hanged upon a gibbet, erected on the green, by the water side, near the Abbey Mill, and opposite his own house, for the murder of his wife, by throwing her over the Stone (the English) Bridge in the Severn: he hung there three days.” The second brings us down to 1774 when, on Good Friday, April 1st, a disastrous fire broke out in the Abbey Foregate by which forty-seven houses, sixteen barns, fifteen stables, four shops, and several stacks of hay were utterly destroyed. This serious conflagration led to the purchase by the Worshipful Company of Drapers of a fire engine, a quantity of buckets and fire hooks, and to the erection of fire plugs for the use of the town. These disagreeable memories are relieved by the sight of

LORD HILL’S COLUMN,

built with Grinshill stone, and said to be the largest Grecian-Doric column in the world. The first stone was laid on the 27th December, 1814, and the last on June 18th, 1816. The total height of the column is 133 feet 6 inches. The colossal statute on the summit was executed from a model by Panzetta. The inscriptions on the pedestal relate the skill and courage displayed by Lieutenant-General Rowland Lord Hill in Spain, Portugal, the South of France, and on the memorable plains of Waterloo. Admission to the Column is obtained by means of a gratuity to the keeper who resides in the adjacent pretty Doric cottage on the left, and from the top a splendid panoramic view of Shropshire rewards the ascender of the winding staircase. To the right of the Column is

ST. GILES’S CHURCH,

built early in the reign of Henry I. for the use of a Hospital of Lepers which stood north-west of the existing edifice, and which was founded by King Henry II. It became parochial about the middle of the fifteenth century when it was united with the parish of Holy Cross within the monastery. It is said that in the reign of Stephen, when the monks obtained the bones of that popular martyr, St. Wenefreda, those relics were deposited on the altar of this church until a shrine worthy of their reception could be prepared within the Abbey. A few yards beyond is the old Militia Depôt, erected in 1806.

Having seen all that is to be seen at this end of the town we return to the Abbey Foregate. About half-way down we diverge to the right and come to

WHITEHALL,

a fine Elizabethan building erected in 1582, by Richard Prince, Esq., a celebrated lawyer. Churchyard speaks of it “so trim and finely that it graceth all the soil it is in.” At a little distance is the Race Course on which Charles I. drew up his army in 1642.

Hastening back towards the town we may turn to the left at the end of the English Bridge for the suburbs of Coleham, Belle Vue, and Meole, where we may see Trinity Church, a plain modern structure, raised in 1837: Belle Vue Cemetery, opened in 1852 for the use of Nonconformists; and the General Parochial Cemetery, opened and consecrated in 1856. Or we may re-cross the bridge, descend the steps on the right, take the pathway on the banks of the Severn, pass under the railway viaduct, inspect the exterior of the County Prison, glance at the British School, All Saints’ Church and Schools, and the Gas Works, thence enter the suburb of Castle Foregate, where a few minutes will suffice to make acquaintance with St. Mary’s and St. Michael’s Schools, with St. Michael’s Church, a neat Doric building erected in 1830. Then we return up Castle Foregate, turn to the right by the railway bridge, and enter the suburb of Coton Hill. In the Royal Baths on the right we may have a refreshing plunge if the weather is warm. Beyond the Baths we see on the right a clump of sycamore trees, denoting the site of the house where Admiral Benbow was born in 1650. In 1698 Admiral Benbow visited Shrewsbury, and was entertained by the Corporation.

It may be mentioned here that in 1606 a considerable portion of Coton Hill was burnt down, “the houses being set on fire by John Tench’s wife.”

We return by way of Chester Street to the station, where our run through the town commenced and where it now ends, after having viewed places and objects which vividly bring to mind events of the past, which present numerous and radical changes in the habits and conditions of society, and which, manifesting in a marked degree the variations of taste, and the definite progress of manners, art, and religion exhibit the relation of modern to ancient times, both in physical sciences and in customs of life.

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FOOTNOTES.

{51} A Painter in Shrewsbury.

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Historical and Descriptive Guide Through ShrewsburyChapter III: Part 3

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