Chapter I: Preface

The interest which the late successful revolution in Spanish America has awakened in Europe renders any genuine account of the new world so highly acceptable to the British nation, that it has become an almost imperative duty in those who may possess original matter to communicate it to the public; for it may be said, without the least exaggeration, that although the countries thus emancipated were discovered in the sixteenth century, they have remained almost unknown till the beginning of the nineteenth.

Fully convinced of these facts, and being urged by my friends, when I was on the eve of again crossing the Atlantic, to publish my collection of notes and memoranda--the gleanings of a twenty years' residence--in order to contribute my quota to the small stock of authentic matter already laid before an anxious public, I have been induced to postpone my voyage, and to embody my observations in the manner in which they now appear.

It is undoubtedly of great importance to become acquainted with the features of a country which has undergone any remarkable change in its political, religious, or literary career, before that change took place; and it is equally important to know the cause of and the means by which the change was effected. I have therefore given a succinct history of the state of the colonies before their fortunate struggle began to germinate, by describing their political and ecclesiastical institutions; the character, genius, and education of the different classes of inhabitants; their peculiar customs and habits; their historical remains and antiquities; and lastly, the produce and manufactures of the country.

My opportunities for obtaining materials for the formation of this work were such as few individuals even among the natives or Spaniards could possess, and such as no _foreigner_ could possibly enjoy at the period of my residence.

Dr. Robertson's celebrated history renders any account of the discovery and conquest of America unnecessary; but as the Spanish authors from whom his work was collected always kept in view the necessity of lulling the anxiety of general curiosity with respect to the subsequent state of the countries under the Spanish crown, that work cannot be supposed to be better than the materials from which it is formed would allow; to which I may add, that the different books published by the philosophic Humboldt are too scientific, and enter into too few details, to become fit for general perusal.

I am induced to believe, that my descriptions of tribunals, corporate bodies, the laws, and administration, the taxes and duties, will not be considered unimportant, because the newly-formed governments will follow in great measure the establishments of Spain, modified by a few alterations, perhaps more nominal than real. Indeed, the present authorities have already determined, that so far as the Spanish codes do not interfere with the independence of the country, they are to be considered as the fundamental laws of the different tribunals.

The Plates are from original Drawings taken by Don Jose Carrillo, a native of Quito, now in England.

Should the following pages merit the approbation of the British public, the author will feel highly gratified by having fulfilled his duty in both hemispheres; nor will this reward in the old world be accounted less honourable than that which he has already obtained in the new.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

PAGE CHAP. I.--Arrival at Mocha....Some Account of Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd Islands touched at on our Passage.... Description of Mocha, its Productions, &c....Leave Mocha and land at Tucapel Viejo....Description of the Indians, their Dress, &c....Indians take me to their Home.... Description of the House, Family, Food, Diversions.... Appearance of the Country....What Trade might be introduced 1

CHAP. II.--Leave Tucapel Viejo, and arrive at Tubul....Description of our Breakfast on the road....Stay at the House of the Cacique of Tubul....Some Appearances of Civilization....Game of Peuca, Wrestling, &c....Anchorage, Trade, &c....Face of the Country....Arrival at Arauco....Taken to the Commandant Interview described....Town of Arauco....Indians who come to barter....Weaving of fine _ponchos_....Excursion to the Water-mills on the Carampangue River....Entertainments, _Mate_, &c....Visit Nacimiento, Santa Juana, and return to Arauco....Ordered to Conception 20

CHAP. III.--Account of Cultivation of Farms, &c. in Araucania.... Thrashing, &c....Produce....Cattle....Locality.... Topographical Divisions....Government (Indian).... Laws and Penalties....Military System....Arms, Standards, &c....Division of Spoil....Treaty of Peace.... Religion....Marriages....Funerals....Spanish Cities founded in Araucania....Ideas on New Colonies....Commerce 40

CHAP. IV.--Valdivia....Port....Fortifications....River.... City-foundation....Revolutions....Inhabitants....Garrison.... Government....Rents and Resources....Churches.... Exiles....Missions in the Province of Valdivia....War with the Indians, and Possession of Osorno....Extract from a Letter in the Araucanian Tongue, and Translation 67

CHAP. V.--City of Conception de Mocha....Foundation.... Situation....Government....Tribunals....Bishop.... Military....Churches....Houses....Inhabitants and Dress....Provincial Jurisdiction....Produce....Throwing the _Laso_....Fruit....Timber Trees....Shrubs....Mines.... Birds....Wild Animals....Lion Hunt....Shepherd Dogs ....Breeding Capons....Return to Conception 82

CHAP. VI.--Sent to Talcahuano....Description of the Bay and Anchorage....Plain between Conception and Talcahuano.... Prospectus of a Soap Manufactory here.... Coal Mine....Town, Custom-house, Inhabitants, &c.... Fish, &c. caught in the Bay....Colonial Commerce.... Prospectus of a Sawing Mill 118

CHAP. VII.--Leave Talcahuano in the Dolores....Passage to Callao....Arrival....Taken to the Castle....Leave Callao....Road to Lima....Conveyed to Prison 130

CHAP. VIII.--Lima, Origin of its Name....Pachacamac.... Foundation of Lima....Pizarro's Palace....Situation of the City....Form of the Valley Rimac....River....Climate.... Temperature....Mists and Rain....Soil....Earthquakes....Produce 143

CHAP. IX.--Viceroys and Archbishop of Lima....Viceroyalty, Extent....Viceroy's Titles and Privileges....Royal Audience.... Cabildo....Forms of Law....Military....Religion.... Inquisition....Sessions and Processes....Archbishop.... Royal Patronage....Ecclesiastical Tribunals....Chapter, _Cabildo Ecclesiastical_....Curates....Asylum of Immunity ....Minor Tribunals...._Consulado_....Crusade....Treasury ....Accompts...._Temporalidades_, _Protomedicato_ 172

CHAP. X.--Taxes, Alcavala....Indian Tribute....Fifths of the Mines....Lances....Stamped Paper....Tobacco.... _Media Anata_...._Aprovechamientos_...._Composicion_ and _Confirmacion_ of Lands....Royal Ninths....Venal Offices.... Estrays....Confiscations....Fines....Vacant Successions.... _Almoxarifasgo_...._Corso_...._Armada_....Consulate.... _Cirquito_....Vacant Benefices...._Mesada Ecclesiastica_ ...._Media Anata Ecclesiastica_....Restitutions....Bulls 195

CHAP. XI.--City of Lima....Figure and Division....Walls.... Bridge....Houses....Churches....Manner of Building Parishes....Convents....Nunneries....Hospitals.... Colleges...._Plasa Mayor_....Market....Interior of the Viceroy's Palace....Ditto Archbishop's Ditto....Ditto Sagrario....Ditto Cathedral....Ditto Cavildo 210

CHAP. XII.--Particular Description of Parish Churches.... Of Santo Domingo....Altar of the Rosary....St. Rosa and other Altars....Cloisters....Sanctuary of Saint Rosa....Church of San Francisco....Chapels _Del Milagro_, _De Dolores_, _De los Terceros_....Pantheon....Cloisters, San Diego....San Agustin...._La Merced_....Profession of a Nun, or taking the Veil....Hospitals of San Andres, of San Bartolome and others....Colleges of Santo Toribio, San Carlos, _Del Principe_....University....Inquisition ....Taken to it in 1806....Visit to it in 1812, after the Abolition....Inquisitorial Punishments....Foundling Hospital....Lottery....Mint....Pantheon 237

CHAP. XIII.--The Population of Lima....Remarks....Table of Castes....The Qualifications of Creoles....Population and Division....Spaniards....Creoles, White.... Costume....Indians....African Negroes....Their _Cofradias_, and Royal Personages....Queen Rosa....Creole Negroes....Mestisos....Mulattos....Zambos....Chinos ...._Quarterones and Quinterones_....Theatre....Bull Circus....Royal Cockpit....Alamedas....Bathing Places ....Piazzas...._Amancaes_....Elevation and Oration Bells.... Processions of Corpus Christi, Santa Rosa, San Francisco and Santo Domingo....Publication of Bulls....Ceremonies on the Arrival of a Viceroy 283

CHAP. XIV.--Fruits in the Gardens of Lima....Flowers.... Particular Dishes, or Cookery...._Chuno_, dried Potatoes ...._Chochoca_, dried Maize....Sweetmeats....Meals.... Diseases....Medical Observations....On the Commerce of Lima....Profitable Speculations 330

CHAP. XV.--Visit to Pisco....Town of Pisco....Bay of Pisco ....Curious Production of Salt...._Huano_...._Huanaes_ ....Vineyards, Brandy....Vineyard _de las Hoyas_.... Fruits....Chilca, Village of Indians....Leave Lima, Road to Chancay....Pasamayo House...._Niña de la Huaca_....Maize, Cultivation....Use of _Huano_....Hogs ....On the Produce of Maize....Different kinds of.... Time of Harvesting....Uses of....Chicha of....Sugar of.... Town of Chancay...._Colcas_....Town of Huacho.... _Chacras_ of the Indians....On the Character of the Native Indians....Refutation of what some Authors have said of ....Manners and Customs of....Tradition of Manco Capac....Ditto Camaruru....Ditto Bochica....Ditto Quitzalcoatl....These Traditions favourable to the Spaniards.... Government of Manco Capac....Representation of the Death of the Inca....Feast of Corpus Christi at Huacho....Indian Dances....Salinas 355

CHAP. XVI.--Villa of Huara....Description....Village of Supe....Ruins of an Indian Town...._Huacas_, Burying Places....Bodies preserved entire....Village of Barranca ....Earthquake in 1806....Barranca River....Bridge of Ropes....Village of Pativilca....Sugar Plantation.... Produce and Profit....Cane cultivated....Mills....Sugar-house ....Management of Slaves....Regulations &c. of Slaves 410