Chapter XI: Modern and Present-Day Fans (2)

The future is full of hope; we have turned our backs upon the bad old nineteenth century, with its manifold outrages upon the æsthetic sense; the foundations, at any rate, of a living art have begun to be laid—were begun, as a matter of fact, by this same nineteenth century, following that strange natural order of the outcome of good from evil and the apparent inseparability of both; a new Phœnix has arisen out of the ashes of the old; a new era has come, showing everywhere signs of a revived artistic life, with plenty of capable heads to invent and willing hands to carry out. Mesdames, it is with your charming selves that the issue rests. You have but to utter the word and your sceptre shall again become a wonder of wreathed beauty and woven grace, rivalling in its blossoming the golden-flowered sceptres of eld![175]

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Gay, _The Fan_.

[2] _Adventures of Harry Richmond_ (the italics are ours).

[3] _Tatler_, No. 52, Aug. 9, 1709.

[4] Goldoni in his _Mémoires_ gives an account of ‘The Fan.’ It was written and first brought out in Paris, and soon became universally popular, especially in Venice.—Helen Zimmern, _Masterpieces of Foreign Authors_.

[5] M. A. Flory, _A Book about Fans_.

[6] Letter of Mrs. Scott, 1761, to her sister-in-law, Mrs. Robinson.—Dr. Doran, _A Lady of the Last Century_ (Mrs. Elizabeth Montagu).

[7] In an engraving of an English Noblewoman by Gaspar Rutz, 1581, a long-handled feather-fan appears.

[8] The fan here referred to was chiefly used inside the Courts as punkah, to create a little circulation of the air, and to dissipate the horrible odours for which these places were notorious.

[9] This assertion that the handles of fans were occasionally employed in the castigation of refractory children is borne out by the droll story of Sir Thomas More punishing his daughters with a fan of peacock’s feathers for the offence of running him into debt with the milliner.

[10] Layard, _Nineveh_.

[11] Wilkinson, _Manners and Customs of the Ancient Egyptians_.

[12] Thus Agamemnon in _Troilus and Cressida_, Act I. Scene iii.:

‘in the wind and tempest of her frown,
Distinction, with a broad and powerful fan,
Puffing at all, winnows the light away;
And what hath mass, or matter, by itself
Lies, rich in virtue, and unmingled.’

[13] In a painting which represents a sacrifice to Isis, Ant. di Ercolano, ii. 60, a priest is seen fanning the fire upon the altar with a triangular flabellum, such as is still used in Italy. (Smith’s _Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities_.)

[14] Sir George Birdwood, Society of Arts, 1903.

[15] George Rawlinson, _Five Great Monarchies of the Ancient World_.

[16] Rawlinson.

[17] 2 Kings i. 2, 3, 6, 16.

[18] Pausanias, Frazer, vol. iii, 558.

[19] ‘The fly-whisk in the picture is introduced because flies were held to be creatures of Beel-zebub, the god of flies, and therefore to be driven away.’ (Letter of Mr. W. Holman Hunt to the author.)

[20] _National Encyclopædia._

[21] Layard, _Nineveh_.

[22] Chambers’s _Dictionary of Arts and Sciences_.

[23] See page 109.

[24] Dennis, _Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria_.

[25] _Revue de l’Art Chrétien_, 1883

[26] In a wall-painting of a sacrifice, Rome (Vatican), given by George Buss, _Der Fächer_, a circular fan-tablet is seen.

[27] This also is the number lining the shed in which the King of Dahomey holds his Court, the outer ones, white, those in the centre, marking the spot occupied by his Majesty, displaying the brightest hues.

[28] C. F. Gordon-Cumming, ‘Pagodas, Aureoles, and Umbrellas,’ _English Illustrated Magazine_, 1888.

[29] In the Ayin Akbari, or Institutes of the Emperor Akbar, by Abdul Fazl, Akbar’s great minister, the following enumeration is given of the ensigns of state ‘which wise monarchs consider as marks of divine favour’:—

The Aurung or throne, the Chuttur or umbrella, the Sayiban or sun-fan, and the Kowkebah or stars in gold and other metals which are hung up in front of the palace; and these four ensigns are used only by kings.

The Alum, the Chuttertowk, and the Tementowk, all varieties of standards of the highest dignity, appropriated solely by the king and his military officers of the highest rank.—Birdwood, _Industrial Arts of India_.

[30] Hon. Wilbraham Egerton, _Handbook of Indian Arms_.

[31] Coomaraswarmy, _Mediæval Sinhalese Art_.

[32] _Hindu Theatre._

[33] In the painting supposed to represent an Irânian Embassy of Khosru II. of Persia to Pulikêsi II., both flag-fan, long-handled pankhâ, and fly-flap appear.

[34] The Tooth relic of Buddha, brought by a Brahman princess from Kālinga in A.D. 313, and since rendered the highest honours.

[35] Anderson, _B.M. Catalogue_, p. 221.

[36] In the romance of _Amadis of Gaul_ it will be remembered that Appolidon gathered up the superb purple and gold feathers of the Phœnix which had remained long enough in the island to change its plumage, to make a fan ornamented with a diamond and carbuncle, as a present from Amadis to Oriane on arriving at the island.

[37] M. Rondot quotes a passage from a native authority stating that the Chinese general, Tchou-ko-liang, commanded his three army corps holding a fan of white plumes.

[38] G. Dumoutier, _Les Symboles, les Emblèmes et les Accessoires du culte chez les Annamites,_ pp. 116-18.

[39] H. A. Giles, _Strange Stories from a Chinese Studio_, p. 64, note 13.

[40] The traditional account is here given—some explanation of the absence of definite dates may be found in the hypothesis that there were _always folding-fans_—that the device of pleating a piece of paper or other material is so simple that it might occur to the youngest child. As a matter of fact, Nature herself invented the folded fan, as she may be said to suggest every invention. The palmetto leaf in its undeveloped shape is pleated and packed as neatly and completely as any folding-fan ever made.

[41] This circumstance of the introduction of a new fashion by courtesans finds a curious parallel in Europe. Stow’s _Chronicle_, Howes’s edit., 1632, says: ‘Womens Maskes, Buskes, Muffes, Fanns, Perewigs, and Bodkins were first devised (_sic_) and used in Italy by _Curtezans_, and there received of the best sort for gallant ornaments, and from thence they came to England, about the time of the massacre of Paris.’

[42] S. W. Bushell, _Chinese Art_.

[43] Her Imperial Majesty’s collection of fans has for some time been dispersed.

[44] Abel Rémusat, _Mélanges posthumes d’histoire et de littérature_, quoted by G. Ashdown Audsley.

[45] H. A. Giles, ‘Chinese Fans,’ _Fraser’s Magazine_, May 1879.

[46] Kaname, the rock which holds the earth together and keeps it quiet, means the rivet of a fan. The great earthquake fish Namazu has the Giant Kashima for keeper, who was charged to subdue the eastern part of the world, and accomplished this feat by running his sword through the earth. In time the sword hardened into stone and was named Kaname (rivet). When Namazu becomes too violent and shakes the earth, Kashima jumps upon him with the rock Kaname.

[47] ‘Upon a male child being presented at his birth to the temple of his father’s particular deity, he receives, amongst other gifts, two fans, while a girl receives a cake of pomade, which brings good looks.’

[48] Henri L. Joly, _Legend in Japanese Art_.

[49] Josiah Conder, _Japanese Costume_.

[50] Mrs. Salwey, _Fans of Japan_.

[51] Anderson, British Museum _Catalogue of Japanese Paintings_.

[52] Chapter XI. page 285.

[53] Beautiful writing is highly prized both in China and Japan. Caligraphy, says Mr. S. W. Bushell (_Chinese Art_, p. 31), is a branch of the fine arts in China, and the penman who can write elegantly in sweeping lines with a flowing brush is ranked above the artist.

[54] In this process of metal inlay, the ground is broken up by means of an engraver’s tool, the pattern formed of silver wire, hammered in.

[55] The widow of Atsumori who was killed in the fight here referred to, in 1184, is credited with the invention of the folding-fan, although dates are somewhat confusing. At the temple of Mieido in Kyoto, whither she had retired to hide her grief under the garb of a nun, she cured the abbot of a fever by fanning him with a paper folding-fan over which she muttered incantations: and to this day the priests of the temple are considered special adepts in the manufacture of fans; hence the name Mieido is adopted by many fan shops all over the islands. (Basil Chamberlain, _Things Japanese_.)

[56] The fan was used as crest by many Japanese families. A number of examples are given in Mrs. Salwey’s _Fans of Japan_.

[57] Henri L. Joly, _Legend in Japanese Art_.

[58] Mrs. Salwey, _Fans of Japan_.

[59] Ode from the _Manyoshin_, translated by Basil Chamberlain.

[60] _Transactions of the Japan Society_, vol. v. Paper by Mrs. Salwey on Pastimes and Amusements of the Japanese.

[61] In the Musée Guimet, Paris, is a tea-service, fine in execution, signed ‘Kawamoto Hansouke,’ an artist of the province of Owari, the saucers being shaped like fans. In the same collection is a large plate, fourteen inches in its longest dimension, shaped like a folding-fan.

[62] Francis Parkman, _La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West_.

[63] Miss Kingsley refers to their use at Egaja, ‘for the purpose of battling with the evening cloud of sand-flies.’

[64] In the liturgy of St. Chrysostom, after the Benedictus—‘Supra sancta ventilet reverenter flabello. Si desit flabellum, velo idem praestat.’ (_Divina Missa S. Joan. Chrysostomi, Goar. Rituale Graecorum._ p. 76.)

[65] Smith, _Dictionary of Christian Antiquities_.

[66] ‘A.D. 1214, Ornamenta Ecclesie Sarum, inventa in Thesauraria. ij. flabella de serico et pergameno.’

[67] Dugdale, _History of St. Paul’s_.

[68] ‘Manubrium flabelli argentum deauratum, ex dono Joh. Newton, thesaurarii, cum ymagine Episcopi in fine enamelyd, pond. v. unc.’

[69] _Registrum Roff._ p. 554.

[70] _Journal of the Archæological Association_, vol. xxvi.

[71] _Archæological Journal_, vol. v.

[72] _Pauli Paciandi de Umbellae Gestatione Commentarius_, Romae, 1752, p. lxiii.

[73] ‘But yet I have them in great reverence
And honour, saving them from filth and ordure
By often brusshyng and moche dylygence.’

[74] _Memorials of London and London Life in the Thirteenth, Fourteenth, and Fifteenth Centuries_, by Henry Thomas Riley.

[75] _Revue de l’Art Chrétien_, 1883. Les Disques crucifères, le Flabellum, et l’umbella.

[76] Harl. MSS. 3601, the date 1295-6, edited by J. W. Clark.

[77] Un esmouchior de drap d’or, a fleur-de-lys, escartelé des armes de France et de Navarre a un baston d’yvoire et de geste, prisé v Francs d’or.—Du Cange.

[78] Viollet-le-Duc.

[79] Blondel.

[80] Henry F. Holt, _Journal of the Archæological Association_, vol. xxvi. (1870).

[81] Elle donna à la reyne Louise de Lorraine une fois pour ses estreines ung esventail faict de nacre de perles, enrichy de pierreries et grosses perles, si beau et si riche, qu’on disoit estre un chef d’œuvre, et l’estimoit on à plus de quinze cens escus.—Pierre de Bourdeilles, Seigneur de Brantôme, _Mémoires des dames illustrées de France._

[82] Sir John Cullam, Bart., _History of Hawsted_.

[83] Dr. Birdwood, _Report on Old Records in the India Office_, 1898.

[84] Sir John Francis Davis, F.R.S., _The Chinese_.

[85] _Fans of the Ancients_, p. 27.

[86] A. C. Fox-Davies, _Complete Guide to Heraldry_.

[87] _Ibid._

[88] _Omnium pene Europae, Asiae, Aphricae, atque Americae Gentium habitus._ Antwerp, 1581.

[89] It is extremely improbable that this fan leaf had ever any connection with the story given above. It probably belongs to the latter years of the seventeenth, or the early years of the eighteenth century.

[90] M. Édouard Petit has written an exhaustive monograph on the manufacture of fans, _Études, souvenirs et considérations sur la fabrication de l’éventail_. Versailles, 1859.

[91] _Art and Ornament in Dress._

[92] Fans of scented wood had, earlier, been introduced into the French Court by Anne of Austria.

[93] S. Redgrave, _South Kensington Catalogue of Fan Exhibition_, 1870.

[94] One of the most potent earlier influences on Spanish painting was that of Titian, who, although probably never in Spain, painted a number of pictures for the Escurial.

[95] ‘They all love the feasts of bulls, and strive to appear gloriously fine when they see them.’—_Memoirs of Lady Fanshawe._

[96] Procès Verbaux, April 26, 1762, Jan. 1765. Lady Dilke, _French Painters of the Eighteenth Century_, p. 12.

[97] Walter Thornbury, _Legendary Ballads and Songs_.

[98] Qui estoit un montagne de chaux vive sur laquelle les gouttes d’eau du ciel tumboient à foison et disoient les mots tels en latin:

‘Ardorem extincta testantur vivere flamma.’

[99] Des éventails et pennaches rompus des carquans brisés et ses pierreries et perles espandues par terre les chaisnes toutes en pieces!

[100] Deux Dialogues du nouveau Langage François, 1578.

[101] Il étoit d’un vélin aussi délicatement découpé qu’il étoit possible avec la dentelle à l’entour de pareille étoffe.

[102] There are instances in which this order is reversed, the leaf having been preserved and mounted on more modern sticks.

[103] Ribbons constantly appear on the fans depicted in Bosse’s engravings, either at the side, half-way up the panache, or at the rivet.

[104] The well-known story of the portrait of Christina, painted by Michael Dahl, may be given. One day, while the Queen was sitting to him, she asked him what he intended to put in her hand. ‘A fan, please your Majesty.’ ‘A fan!’ exclaimed Christina, starting up with a tremendous oath. ‘A fan!—A lion, man, is fitter for the Queen of Sweden.’

The Order of the Fan was instituted later by Louisa Ulrica, in 1744, for the ladies of the Swedish court, in which the sterner sex was afterwards included.

[105] Letter 491, 8 Mai 1676.

[106] Le Brun was appointed ‘premier peintre’ in 1662, with twelve thousand francs a year.

[107] ... ‘Courant de belle en belle,
Sous des lambris dorés et Vernis par Martin.’

[108] ‘Les cabinets où Martin
A surpassé l’art de la Chine.’—VOLTAIRE.

[109] Paul Mantz, _Gazette des Beaux-Arts_, vol. XX.

[110] Translation by Henry Smith Wright, B.A.

[111] ‘Pantins Méchanique,’ a performing figure worked by a string, much in vogue at this period. See _Engraved Fans of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries_, part i. page 226.

[112] Henri Bouchot, ‘History on Fans’ (_Art and Letters_, vol. ii.).

[113] A congratulatory address on this occasion was offered to the Queen by the market-women of Paris, written by M. de la Harpe on the inside of the fan of the spokeswoman, to which she repeatedly referred without the least embarrassment.—Henry F. Holt, _Journal of the Archæological Association_, vol. xxvi.

[114] See _Engraved Fans of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries_, page 227.

[115] _Menagiana._

[116] Pope had, nearly a century earlier, made allusion to the discontinuance of the fashion:

‘The modest fan was lifted up no more,
And virgins smiled at what they blushed before.’

[117] Steevens.

[118] See Italian fans, p. 109.

[119] Agnes Strickland, _Lives of the Queens of England_. In most of the early engraved portraits of Catherine of Braganza, the Queen is represented with a folding-fan, in each instance closed; in one instance, that of an equestrian portrait, a _large_ fan is depicted.

[120] In Campbell’s _London Tradesman_, 1747, it is recorded that ‘the Italian mounts are much more in request than anything of our own manufacture, and large prices are given for them.’

[121] H. M. Baird, _The Huguenots and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes_.

[122] The Fanmakers’ Company, created by Charter in 1709, for nearly 100 years protected and regulated the trade, until the reduction of protective duties on foreign fans annihilated the English trade. (Notes by Colonel Sewell (Fanmakers’ Company), Schreiber MS., British Museum.)

[123] _Spectator_, No. 296.

[124] _Tatler_, December 29, 1709. Letter No. 113. John Hughes.

[125] _Spectator_, No. 102.

[126] E. J. Climenson, _Elisabeth Montagu, Queen of the Blue-stockings_.

[127] The fan of Pope’s epigram was probably Italian. See page 179.

[128] ‘Please notice No. 110, which rather points to one of your fans not being by Bartolozzi. Perhaps the “Lady of Quality” was Lady Duncannon.’—Letter by Mr. Lionel Cust to Lady Charlotte Schreiber. Schreiber MSS., British Museum.

[129] Schreiber MSS., British Museum. _Extracts_, p. 100.

[130] _Journal of the Archæological Association_, vol. xxvi., 1870.

[131] _See_ Meaume, _Recherches sur la vie et les ouvrages de Jacques Callot_, vol. ii. p. 287.

[132] _Art and Letters_, Jan. 1888.

[133] Honoré de Balzac (_Sur Catherine de Médicis_).

[134] In French salons, about the year 1728, the fashion prevailed of ‘Les Pantins Méchaniques,’ that every one carried and worked by the aid of strings while chatting of one thing and another. Lacroix, _XVIII Siècle, France_, 1700-87, p. 507.

From 1748 to 1750 it was in high vogue among the _beau monde_ as a diverting plaything for gentlemen and ladies. Wright, _Caricature History of the Georges_, note, p. 251.

[135] The subject of America is returned to later, when in the ‘George Washington’ fan we have in the centre a portrait of Washington, and, ranged on either side, portraits of the succeeding ten presidents of the United States. This, a lithograph, with painted decorations in silver, bearing the inscription, ‘Vagneur-Dupré. No. 530. Lith. de Lemercier.’

[136] Several versions of the above subject appear: 1. King seated under canopy, three notables and three ecclesiastics on either side, M. Calonne reading speech, 2. King and his two brothers under canopy, four nobles and four ecclesiastics on either side. 3. A much more elaborate performance, king and two royal princes under canopy; four nobles and six ecclesiastics, M. Calonne, and clerk at table; a courtier on each side of the composition.

[137] _Dictionnaire des Hommes Marquans_, ii. p. 519, quoted by Carlyle.

[138] Richard Heath, ‘Politics in Dress,’ _Woman’s World_, June 1889.

[139] In the Musée du Louvre is a remarkable drawing of the great arch, with a vast concourse of people, by Jean Louis Prieur, illustrated in Lady Dilke’s work, _French Engravers and Draughtsmen of the Eighteenth Century_.

[140] Carlyle.

[141] Carlyle.

[142] Henri Bouchot, _History on Fans_.

[143] See page 164.

[144] Richard Heath, ‘Politics in Dress,’ _Woman’s World_, June 1889.

[145] Henri Bouchot.

[146] Henri Bouchot.

[147] Of the two hundred engravings deposited in the Bibliothèque Nationale in this year (1796) a hundred and fourteen were fan-designs mostly in praise of Napoleon. (Henri Bouchot, _History on Fans_.)

[148] Chaudet was a sculptor who made the first statue of Napoleon in his military dress, that on the Vendôme Column. Fontaine and Persier were architects to the Tuileries.

[149] Lord Stanhope, alluding to the medals prematurely struck in honour of Admiral Vernon’s victories at Portobello and Carthagena, says: ‘Perhaps the most remarkable of all these _médailles prématurées_ is that struck by Napoleon for his intended conquest of England; his head on the one side; on the other, Hercules struggling with a monster; the words “Descente en Angleterre”; and beneath, “Frappé à Londres, MDCCCIV.”’—_History of England_, chap. xxii.

[150] _Encyclopædia Britannica._

[151] A company obtained a concession ratified 15th April 1877. The Maritime Canal Company was organised May 1899, and in the following year a construction company was incorporated. The question whether the canal would be constructed by this route or on the Panama route was still undecided in September 1902.—_Encyclopædia Britannica._

[152] ‘Hogarth,’ says Walpole, ‘resembles Butler; but his subjects are more universal, and amidst all his pleasantry, he observes the true end of comedy—reformation. There is always a moral to his pictures.’

[153] A synopsis of English History, given on a fan, published 1793 by I. Cock and J. P. Crowder, concludes by saying: ‘We may with pleasure add that one of the Princes, His Majesty’s 2^d son, the Duke of York, has lately gained honour for the English Nation by the eminent distinction of the British Troops under his command before Valenciennes, in the humanity they joined to their valour. Vive, Vive le Roi!’

[154] M. Gamble had advertised in the _Craftsman_ during the year 1733 ‘The Church of England Fan; being an explanation of the Oxford Almanac for the year 1733, on which the several characters are curiously done, in various beautiful colours. Price 2s. Likewise a new Edition of the “Harlot’s Progress in Fans,” with prints of all the three sorts fit to Frame. Sold at the Golden Fann in St. Martin’s Court, near Leicester Fields.’

[155] In Boswell’s _Johnson_ are references to Osborne—to the purchase of the Harleian Library and the publication of the Catalogue, and to the personal chastisement which Johnson inflicted on him:—‘It has been confidently related, with many embellishments, that Johnson one day knocked Osborne down in his shop, with a folio, and put his foot upon his neck. The simple truth I had from Johnson himself: “Sir, he was impertinent to me and I beat him. But it was not in his shop; it was in my own chamber.”’

In Johnson’s _Life of Pope_, Osborne is thus referred to:—‘Pope was ignorant enough of his own interest to make another change, and introduced Osborne contending for the prize among the booksellers.’ (_Dunciad_, ii. p. 167.)

‘Osborne was a man entirely destitute of shame, without sense of any disgrace but that of poverty.’ (_Johnson’s Works_, viii. p. 302.)

[156] This latter is a device by which the second dimension of the stick (the gorge) is made to slide up into the shoulder, the mount being double and loose, so as to allow of passing up and down the stick. By this means, an ordinary sized fan of 10-3/4 ins. is reduced to 6-3/4. Mr. Crewdson has an example, with paper mount painted with figures variously occupied, as a soldier drinking at a tent, a travelling ‘Punch,’ etc. The stick ivory, carved, painted and gilt.

[157] ‘The Fair was granted by Henry I. to one Rahere, a witty and pleasant gentleman of his Court, in aid, and for the support of, an Hospital, Priory, and Church, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, which he built in repentance of his former profligacy and folly. The succeeding Priors claimed by certain Charters to have a Fair every year, viz. on the Eve, Day, and the Morrow of St. Bartholomew.’

[158] The Beau always carried a white beaver hat, assumed after he had lost many of ordinary colours, as he said, to prevent any person taking it by mistake, though the uncharitable declared the reason for this singularity was to attract attention. Nash was fond of fine clothes, and celebrated the King’s Birthday in 1734 by appearing in gold-laced clothes, in which, says Chesterfield, ‘he looked so fine that, standing by chance in the middle of the dancers, he was taken by many at a distance for a gilt garland. (Lewis Melville, _Bath under Beau Nash_.)

[159] Daughter of George II., who paid her first visit to Bath in 1728.

‘Ye nymphs of Bath, come, aid my lay;
Come strike the trembling string;
Amelia’s name so sweetly flows,
Her face and wondrous goodness shows,
Who can refuse to sing.

‘Her presence, like the sun benign,
Sheds blessing, where she deigns to shine:
And brightens all the place;
But, when the Goddess disappears,
Our drooping heads and eyes in tears
Will witness our distress.’

Quoted by Lewis Melville, _Bath under Beau Nash_.

[160]

‘Poor _Bladud_, he was manger grown; his dad, which zum call vather,
Zet _Bladud_ pig, and pig _Bladud_, and zo they ved together.
Then _Bladud_ did the Pigs invect, who, grumbling, ran away,
And vound whot Waters presently, which made him fresh and gay.
_Bladud_ was not so grote a Vool, but seeing what Pig did doe,
He Beath’d and Wash’t, and Rins’d, and Beath’d, from Noddle down
to Toe.
* * * * *
And then he built this gawdy Toun, and sheer’d his Beard spade-ways,
Which voke accounted then a Grace, though not so nowadays.
Thwo thowsand and vive hundred Years, and Thirty-vive to That,
Zince _Bladud’s_ Zwine did looze their Greaze, which we _Moderns_
call Vat.’
CORYATE, _Crudities_.

[161] Goldsmith, _Life of Nash_.

[162] In memory of the happy restoration to Health of the Prince of Orange, by drinking the Bath Waters, through the favour of God, and to the joy of Britain, 1734.

[163] The painted fan alluding to the relations between the Prince of Wales and Mrs. Fitzherbert is referred to on page 195.

[164] In 1726, when Swift took the town by storm with ‘Gulliver,’ every lady ‘carried Lilliput about with her,’ and Lilliputian fans became the vogue.

[165] ‘Mr. A. W. Tuer, in a list of Bartolozzi’s works (page 116), catalogues eighteen fan-mounts, including the one published by A. Poggi in 1780, but not the one published by Poggi in 1782. Only four, so far as he knows, were completed as fans, including the 1780 Poggi. The coppers on which the engravings were made were of large size, so as to admit of the after addition of the form of the fan, and its ornamentation. Some of the plates were afterwards cut down, lettered, and issued as separate prints.’ (Letter of Mr. Lionel Cust to Lady Charlotte Schreiber, Schreiber MSS., British Museum.)

[166] Redgrave, _South Kensington Catalogue_, 1870.

[167] Duvelleroy, _Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1867, Rapports du Jury International_, vol. iv.

[168] _Queen_, Christmas Number, 1890.

[169] E. Barrington Nash, _Catalogue of the Third Competitive Exhibition of Fans at Drapers’ Hall_, 1890.

[170] There is no reason why either sex should claim a monopoly of fan painting.

[171] Octave Uzanne, _The Fan_.

[172] These details are most kindly supplied by the Private Secretary, the Hon. A. Nelson Hood, who also photographed the fan for this work.

[173] The above facts are taken from an article in the _Irish Rosary_ for June 1898.

[174] _Art and Ornament in Dress._

[175] The Etruscan sceptre in the gold ornament room, British Museum, has the top formed like a flower, the petals of beaten gold, the inner core a large emerald.

INDEX

ABANICO DI NOVIA, 99.

Abano, Portuguese fire-fan, 12, 13.

‘Abolition of the Slave-Trade,’ 226.

‘Achilles and Deidamia,’ 180.

Actæon fan, 146.

‘Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden,’ 194.

Addison, _quotation_, 189.

Ælian. Festival of Apollo at Lencos, 24.

Ajanta, cave-temples, 41.

Akbar-Namah, 45.

Akomé ogi, 63, 64.

Albin, St. M. Philippe de, 223.

Alexander VI., Pope, 107.

Alexandra, H.M. Queen, 195, 278, 292, 293.

Alexandre, M., 278, 279, 281, 290, 291.

Alma-Tadema, Lady, 285.

—— Sir L., 202.

Alum, 36, note, 37.

Amaravati tope, 41.

‘Ancient Marriage,’ 180.

Andaman Islands, 85.

Anderson, Dr., _quotation_, 48, note, 68.

André, Eugène, 55.

Angelo, Michael, 115.

Anne, H.R.H. Princess, 180.

—— Queen, screen of, 288.

Antoinette, Marie-, 117, 132, 159, 166, 167, 168, 169, 213, 225.

‘Antony and Cleopatra,’ 198.

Apostolical Constitutions, 87.

Araki, 73.

_Archæological Association, Journal of_, 93, note.

_Archæological Journal_, 93, note.

Arevalo, Cano de, 127, 128.

Arhats, 62.

Aristophanes, 36.

Aristotle, 118.

‘Ascent of Mont Blanc,’ 276.

Assignat-fans, 223, 224, 227.

Assur-bani-pal, 20, 21, 22.

Assyrian plaited hand-fan, 25.

‘Athenian Stuart,’ 185.

Atsumori, 72, note, 73.

Atterbury, Dr., Bishop of Rochester, epigram 187.

Aubery, MS., prodigious fans, _temp._ Henry VIII., 8.

Audsley, G. Ashdown, 57, note.

Augustine, St., 96.

‘Aurora,’ by Guido, 123.

‘Aurora and Zephyr,’ 132.

Autograph and inscription fans, 58, 59, 68, 69, 285.

‘Autumn’ fan, 59.

Baal, 22.

Baalbek, 23.

Baal-Shemeh, 23.

Bacchus, mystical fan of, 11.

—— and Ariadne, fans of, 122, 123, 124.

Baden, Grand Duke Frederick of, 99.

—— Grand Duchess of, wedding fan, 277.

Badini, Charles Francis, 254.

Baird, H. M., _quotation_, 181.

‘Bal d’Amours,’ 277.

‘Bal des Nations,’ 210.

Bald, Charles the, 98.

Ball at the Tuileries, 1829, 274.

Balloon-fan, 214.

Balzac, Guez de, 26, 144, 168.

Bamboo-fan, 50, 55, 62, 74, 75.

Barclay, _Ship of Fools_, 94.

Barnwell, Cambridge, 98.

Bartholomäus, Frau, 136.

Bartolozzi, 193, 268.

Bastard, 278.

Bat Bu’u, 52.

Battoir fan, 163.

Baude, Alphonse, 277.

Beaumarchais, 213, 215.

Beaussier, Countess de, 152.

‘Before and after Marriage,’ 264.

Behrens, W. L., 70.

Bella, Stefano della, 205.

‘Belle Chanteuse,’ 208.

Bellows or fire fans, 10, 11, 12, and note, 13, 80;
Queen Mary, 102.

Benin, 83.

Berger, Eugène, 278.

Berlin Museum, 98, 269.

Berrettini (Pietro da Cortona), 122.

Berri, Madame la Duchesse de, 274.

Bessborough, Lord, 124.

‘Betrothal of Louis XV. and Marie Leczinska,’ 161.

‘Betrothal of Louis XVI. and Marie-Antoinette,’ 132.

Bèze, Théodore de, 207.

Binyon, Laurence, 73.

Birdwood, Miss Ethel, 170.

—— Sir George, 15, note, 21, 24, _quotation_, 35, 36, note, 107, 170,
298.

Bischoffsheim, Mrs., 163.

Bisschop, Madame, 281.

Blanc, Charles, 3, 121, 297.

Blauchard, M., 214.

Blondel:—Greek figures, 29;
Peru and Mexico, 84;
Middle Ages, 94;
flag-fan, 99, 100, 136;
agricultural fêtes, 171;
lorgnettes, 173;
_quotation_, 279.

Boileau, Étienne, 94.

Boissy, Louis de, _quotation_, 9.

Bonheur, Rosa, 280.

Bosse, Abraham, 148, 150, 151, 152, 204, 207.

Boucher, 142.

Bouchot, Henri, 165, note, 207, 225, 227, 228.

Bradford, Countess of, 167.

Brangwyn, Frank, A.R.A., 295, 296.

Brantôme, 101, 102, note, 144, 145, 166.

Brétigny seal of Edward III., 110.

Bridal-fan of Adelaide of Savoy, Duchess of Burgundy, 158.

—— of Marie-Antoinette, 166, 167.

—— of H.R.H. Princess Anne, 190.

Brisé fan, its construction and decoration, 119;
period of, 119;
modern, 278;
exhibitions of, 282, 283.

Bristol, Dowager Marchioness of, 123, 125, 132, 153, 161, 165, 194,
197, 198, 276.

British Guiana, 80.

—— Museum, 48, 50, 51, 58, 61, 62, 63, 72, 76,80, 82, 83, 84, 85, 91,
93, 205, 232.

‘Broken’ Chinese fan, 58.

Bruyère, Madame la, 169.

Bruÿn, A. de, 111, 112, 196, 197.

Buddha, Gautama, 34; Gaya, 34.

Buddhist priests, Siam, 42.

Bulrushes, 50.

Burdett-Coutts, Baroness, 191, 259.

—— W., 56, 117, 125, 247.

Burges, W., 95, note, 96, 97.

Burma, monastic novitiate of, 6; King of, 34.

Burmese regalia, 43.

Burty, Ph., 71.

Bushell, S. W., 21, 56, note, 69, note.

Butler, 87, 89.

Cabinet de Médailles, Paris, 99.

‘Cabriolet’ fan, 164, 226, 227.

Caïn, Georges, 281.

Caligraphic School, Japan, 62.

Caligraphy, 69, note.

Callamatta, Madame, 281.

Callot Jacques, 204, 207.

Cambridge, Augusta, Duchess of, 166.

Camp-fan (jin sen), 73.

Campbell’s _London Tradesman_, 1747, _quotation_, 179.

Canal, Antonio (Canaletto), 125, 191, 258.

Canning, Lady, 133.

‘Capture of the Balearic Islands,’ 129.

Carlos III., King of Spain, 1759, 129, 130.

Carlyle, Thomas, 215, 218.

Carracci, Agostino, 105, 180, 204.

—— Annibale, 122, 123.

Carrand collection, 90.

‘Carrousel at Madrid,’ 129.

Case or cover of a fan, 21, 22.

Ceremonial fan, 82, 89.

‘Cerf de St. Hubert,’ 280.

Chamba, 44.

Chamberlain, Basil, 72, 75.

Chambers, _Dictionary of Arts and Sciences_, 25, note.

Chambrun, Comtesse de, 165.

Chapel-fan, 251.

Chapt, Madame la Baronne de, _Œuvres Philosophiques_, 3.

Chardin, M., 123.

—— _Voyages_, 35.

Charles V., 99.

Charles, Prof., 213.

Charlotte, Queen, management of fan, 7.

Château de Pierre, excavation at the, 108.

Chaudet, 229.

Chaurie, 38, 39.

Chesterfield, Lord, 259, note.

Child, Josiah, 164.

Children’s fans, exhibition of, 125.

Chinese feather-screens, 288.

Chodowiecki, D., 245, 269.

Chrism, consecrations of, 88.

Chrysostom, St., 88, note.

Chūkei, 65.

Church-fan, 193, 248, 249, 250, 251.

Cipriani, 193, 268.

Clark, J. W., 98, note.

Cleopatra, 19.

Climenson, E. J., _quotation_, 190.

Clouet, François, 138.

Cluny, Musée de, 91, 114, 146.

Coburg, H.R.H. Duke of, 198.

Cochin, Nicolas, 205.

Cockade fan, 83, 100.

Code of the fan (Japan), 65.

Cole, Sir Henry, 280.

Colombia, Republic of, bellows fan, 12.

Columbus Christopher, expedition to America, 107.

Compte-Calix, 278.

Conder, Charles, 294, 295.

—— Frank, 295.

—— Josiah, 64, note.

Connaught, H.R.H. Princess Margaret of, 292.

Consort, Prince, 203.

Conversation or speaking fan, 253.

Coomaraswarmy, A. K., 37, note, 43.

Copts, 41.

‘Coquette, La,’ 208, 209.

Corisandres, 274.

Coronation fan of H.M. Queen Alexandra, 293.

—— banquet of George II., 232.

Corot, 278.

Cortona, Pietro da, 122.

Coryat, Thomas, 112.

Cosway, 195.

Court-fan, 63, 64.

‘Court of Love,’ 296.

Courtesans, 53.

‘Courtship and Marriage of the Dauphin,’ 162, 166.

Cousin, Jean, 138.

Couture, 278.

Cover or case of a fan, 21, 22.

Coverley, Sir Roger de, 187.

Cowper, 289.

Coypel, Antoine, 153.

Craven, Dowager Duchess of, 132.

Cray, Madame du, 169.

Crépy, 208.

Crescent-shaped hand-fan, 40.

Crests, fan-, 110.

Crewdson, Wilson, 50, 64, 255, 288.

Cruikshank, 246.

Crusaders, 25, 100.

Cullam, Sir John, Bart., 103, note.

Cumming, C. F. Gordon, 35, note.

‘Cupid’s Hive,’ 125.

Curiosities in fans, 286, 287.

Cust, Lionel, 193, note, 268.

Cyrenians, sacrifices to fly-catching god, 23.

Dagger-fan, 58.

Dahl, Michael, 153.

Dai Tengu, 60, 61.

D’Albuquerque, Alphonso, 107.

D’Alembert, 153.

Dance-fan, 73, 82.

Dancing-fan (mai ogi), 62, 73.

D’Arblay, Madame, _letter_, 7-8, 192.

Date of a fan, important consideration in determining, 149.

Davenant, Sir W., 101.

Davis, Sir John Francis, 107.

Découpé fan, 114, 146, 178.

Delhi, 42.

Derivation of the word _fan_, 10.

Derri, Nubia, Temple of, 15.

‘Descente en Angleterre, 1803,’ 229.

‘Désespoir des Pensionnaires,’ 222.

Desroches, Mlle., 114, 115.

Devauçay, Madame, 174.

Devonshire, Georgiana, Duchess of, 195.

D’Hautefort, Mlle., 105.

Diamonds, in handles, 103.

Diaz, 275, 278.

Dilke, Lady, 139, note.

Disc standards, Assyrian, 25, 37.

Disraeli, Benjamin, _Contarini Fleming_, 4, 135.

Disvāta, 37.

Dobson, Austin, 239.

Doran, Dr., 7, note.

Doré, Madame, 144.

‘Double-entente,’ Chinese, 58.

Double or reversible fan, 120, 121.

Drake, Sir Francis, 103.

Drapers’ Hall Exhibition, 1878, 122.

Drawings of fans by Poggi, 193.

Dreher, Conrad, 286.

‘Droits de l’Homme, Les,’ 221.

Dryden, John, 163.

Duchâtel, Countess, 159.

Duck-foot or Ferrara fan, 107.

‘Duck-Hunting,’ 252, 253.

Dugdale, 92, note.

Dumoutier, G., 52, note.

Duncannon, Lady, 124.

Dutch painted fans, 196;
early use, 197;
painted mounts, 197;
historical and fanciful subjects, 198;
treatment of the mount, 198;
French, Italian, and Chinese influences on the treatment
of the mount, 198;
Flemish, 199;
varnish, 200;
ivory brisé, 200;
horn, 201;
small decorated spangled, 201;
sticks, 202.

‘Dutch Settlements in the East Indies,’ 197.

Duvelleroy, M., 121, 124, 137, 276, 278, 279, 291, 293.

Dyonisia, 11.

Early history of fan, Japan, 60.

East India Company, 176.

Edward III., Brétigny seal of, 110.

Egerton, Hon. Wilbraham, 37, note.

Egyptian fan, plaited hand, 13;
processional 14, 15, 16, 17;
semicircular hand, 13, 14;
square, 19.

Eleanor, Queen, 102.

‘Eleanora d’Este,’ 113.

Elena, Queen of Italy, 291.

Elizabeth, Queen, 102, 178.

Emblem, fan, 17, 18, 39.

Embroidered Dutch fans, 199.

Employment of fans in religious ceremonies, 15, 20, 27, 52, 87-94.

Enamel, 55, 56.

Énault, Louis, 136.

Engraved fans of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, French—
Earliest, 204.
Classical, 206.
Topical, 207.
Naval and military, 207.
Separation of America from England, 212.
Capture of Granada, 212.
Louis Seize, 212.
Birth of the Dauphin, 212.
Professor Charles’s balloon, 214.
Beaumarchais’ comedy, _Le Mariage de Figaro_, 216.
Operatic, 216.
The Revolution, 219.
Mirabeau, 223.
Paper-money difficulties, 223, 224, 227.
Abolition of the Slave-Trade, 226.
Cabriolet, 227.
Napoleon Bonaparte, 228, 229.
Russian campaign of 1812, 230.
Nicaragua Canal, 230.

Engraved fans of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, English—
Coronation of George II., 232.
_Beggar’s Opera_, 233.
Marriage of the Crown Princess with Prince of Orange, 234.
William Hogarth, 238.
Victories of Admiral Vernon, 240, 241.
The unpopular Prime Minister, 241.
Jacobite Rebellion, 243.
Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle, 244.
Death of the Prince of Wales, 1751, 244.
Taking of Quebec, 244.
Marriage of George IV., 246.
Lord Howe’s victory, 247.
Trial of Warren Hastings, 247.
Popular resorts, 256.
Opera, 262.
Lord Hardwicke’s New Marriage Act of 1753, 267.
Processes of, 270.

Entertainment fans, 256.

‘Entomologist,’ 280.

Eugénie, Empress, 57, 279, 280, 281.

Euripides, _quotation_, 29.

‘Éventail brisé,’ 119.

Excise fan, 234.

Fabri, Alex., 147.

Fair fans, 256, 257.

Fairholt, _quotation_, 178.

Fan and towel or handkerchief beaters, 21.

Fan as decorative motif in design, 76.

Fan as emblem of life, Japan, 20, 60.

Fan-bearer, office of, 16;
privileges of, 19;
Assyrian, 20, 21;
badge of Assyria, 20.

Fan games, 75, 76.

Fan-shops, Paris, 151; London, 187.

Fannière Brothers, 278.

Feast of Lanterns, 46.

Feather-fans, Greek, 29, 30;
Etruscan, 30;
Roman, 30, 87;
India, 40;
China, 46;
wing-shaped, 47, 57;
primitive, 77;
eagle, 82;
Venetian, 99;
France, Charles V., 100;
twelfth to sixteenth centuries, 101;
white and coloured, 102;
France, 144;
English, 176;
modern, 287, 288, 289, 290;
woodcock, 289.

Feather-wands, 84.

Feather-work, 50, 288.

Fell, H. Granville, 296.

Ferrara, or duck’s-foot fan, 107.

‘Fête de l’Agriculture,’ 171.

‘Fête de la Fédération,’ 222.

‘Fête on the Piazzetta,’ 125.

Feuchères, Jean, 278.

Feure, Georges de, 297.

Fielding, Henry, 256.

Figaro fans, 216.

Filigree, 55, 56, 57, 58.

Fitzherbert, Mrs., 195.

Flabelliferæ, 15, 31, 45.

Flabellum, Egyptian, 16;
leek-green, 32;
Christian, 87-97;
early adoption by the Latin Church, 88;
symbolism of, 88;
types of, 89; Tournus, 89, 90;
handle, French twelfth century, 91, 92;
capital, North German, 92;
peacock, 94;
metal, 99;
cockade, 100.

Flagellum, the mystical _vannus_, 11.

Flag-fans: India, 41, 42, 44;
West Africa, 83;
Europe, 97;
Coptic, 98;
Venice, 99.

Flamand, Le, 168.

Fleury, Robert, 275.

Flies, Baal-zebub, lord of the, 22, 23.

_Floire, The_, 101.

Flory, M. A., 7, note.

Fly-hunter (Jupiter Myiodes), 23; Hercules, 23.

Fly-whisk or fly-flap, primitive Egyptian, 14;
Assyrian, 22, 25;
Roman, 28, 31;
Indian, 38, 39, 44, 45, 62;
primitive peoples, 84, 85;
black horse-hair, 86;
Abyssinian, 86;
peacock feathers, 92;
palm leaves, 98.

Fol, Walther, 279.

Folding or pleated fans, 28, 52, 53, 57, 58;
bamboo, 62, 65;
war, 70;
French, 145;
English, 176;
modern, 272.

Forrers, Robert, 98.

Fortune-telling fans, 254, 255, 256.

Fox-Davies, A. C., 110, 111.

Fragonard, 167.

Franklin, Benjamin, 170.

Franks collection, 161, 199.

Freij, Jacobus, 122.

Friederichsy, Baroness, 286.

Fuji san (peerless mountain), 75.

‘Galant, Le,’ 208.

Gamble, M., 233, 234, 237, 248, 255, 264.

Games of the fan, 75, 76.

Garnier, 278.

Gautier, Théophile, 135.

Gavarni, 278, 279.

Gay, 2.

Genlis, Madame de, _Dictionary of Etiquette_, 174.

_Gentleman’s Magazine_, quotation, 182, 183, 186.

‘George Washington,’ 212.

Germanus, 89.

Germo, Leonardo, 123.

Gérôme, 275.

Giant fans, 74.

Gibson, Mrs. Frank W., 132.

Giles, H. A., 52, note, 59, note.

Girardin, Madame de, 278.

Glaize, 275, 278.

Gluck, 216.

Gold Coast, 84.

Gold-handled fans, 102, 103.

Goldoni, _The Fan_, 6, 7, 126, _quotation_.

Goncourt, MM. de, 17 2, _quotation_.

Gore, Sir Humphrey, 180.

Gosson, Stephen, _quotation_, 177.

Götz, Prof. Hermann, 284.

Goupy, 185.

Goya, Francisco, 134.

Granville, Countess, 280.

Grass or rush fans, 77, 79, 83.

Gravelot, 191.

‘Great Lottery of 1714,’ 190.

Greek Church, 94.

Grégoire, 226.

Grétry, 216.

Grignan, Madame de, 154, 159.

Guido, ‘Aurora’ of, 123.

Guimet, Musée, 50, 51, 76, note.

Gumbai Uchiwa, 62.

Gun Sen, 62.

Gypsy fans, 254, 255, 256.

Halberd-shaped fans, 42.

Hall, Bishop, 105.

Hammett, Lydia, 293.

Hamon, Jean Louis, 278, 279, 280.

Han dynasty, sculptures, 21, 26, 49, 58.

Hand-fan: Egyptian plaited, 13;
Assyrian, 25;
primitive, 77, 78, 79;
Egyptian semicircular, 13, 14.

Hand-screen, engraved design for a, by Agostino Carracci, 105;
feather, 105;
straw, 196;
engraved, 204, 217.

Handles at Museums, 14, 30, 105; Gold Coast, 84.

‘Harlot’s Progress,’ 238, 239.

Harpe, M. de la, 168, note.

Harvey, John, 180.

Hastings, Warren, trial of, 247.

Hawaiian Islands, 79, 80, 84.

Heart-shaped fans: Greek, 28, 44; primitive, 78.

Heere, Lucas de, 178.

Hefner-Altenek, 112.

Heine, Madame Charles, 129.

Hennin collection (Bibliothèque Nationale), 165,195.

Hervey Islands, 79.

Hi ogi, 62, 64, 69.

Hide-fans, 77, 80, 83.

Hildebert, St., 88.

Hindu theatre, 39, note.

Hiroshige II., 72.

Hogarth, William, 238.

Hohenlohe-Langenburg, H.S.H. Princess Victor of, 132.

Hokusai, 69. 72.

Holmes, Randle, 94.

Holt, H. F., 101, note, 203.

Hörman, Christopher Fredr., 205.

Horn, 120, 201.

Horniman Museum, 38, 83.

Hotei, 61, 67, 68.

Hsi-Wang-Mu, fan of, 47-49.

Hughes, John, _Tatler_, 189, note.

—— Mr. Talbot, 134.

Humorous fans, 265.

Hunefer, papyrus of, 18.

Hunt, W. Holman, 24, note.

Hussein Dey, 273.

Imperial Museum, Tôkyô, 68.

‘Impracticable,’ 58.

Incrustation, process of, mother of pearl, 119.

India Museum, 38, 39, 44, 51, 86.

Ingres, 275.

Innocent XI., Pope, 232.

Inscription or autograph fans, 58, 59, 68, 69, 285.

Invention of fan: China, 46; Japan, 63.

Inventories: St. Riquer, Amiens, La Sainte Chapelle, Ely, Salisbury,
St. Paul’s, 92;
Exeter, 92;
of pledges, 1303, 95;
Comptesse Mahaut d’Artois, Queen Clémence, Johanne d’Evereux,
Charles V., 100;
Queen Elizabeth, 103.

Isabella, queen of Edward II., 93.

Isabey, 275.

Isis, priest of, 27.

Ivory, 51, 53, 55, 57, 58, 64, 65, 74, 89, 91, 105, 114, 118, 125, 129,
134, 147, 161, 162, 166, 174, 192, 194, 197, 199, 200, 201, 203, 212,
244, 273, 280.

Jacobite Rebellion, 243.

Jacquemart, 275, 278.

Jane of Navarre, 196.

Jeaffreson, _quotation_, 267.

Jewelled fans, 102.

Jews, names of cities of, 22.

Joachim-Gibson, Mrs., 286.

Johnston, Mrs. Bruce-, 124, 166.

Joly, Henry L., 73, note.

Josephs, Marie, 125.

Jubinal, Madame Achille, 99, 122, 174.

‘Judgment of Paris,’ 158, 206.

Juro, 61.

Kaname, or rivet, 60, note.

Kanaoka, 66.

Kanō San Raku, 68.

Kapiolani, Queen, 79.

Kasuga Motomitsu, 66.

—— Takayoski, 68.

Kauffmann, Angelica, 120, 193, 194, 268.

Kells, Book of, 87, 89, 93.

Kendal, Mrs., 287.

Kew Museum, 44.

Khaskhás root, 44.

King, Jessie, 297.

Kingsley, Miss, 84, note.

Klagmann, 278.

Klimsch, Prof. Eugen, 284.

Kôyetsu, 69.

Krishna, 44.

Kunisada, 69.

Kuniyoshi, 71.

Kyoto, 69.

Lace mounts, 291.

Lacquer, 53, 54; gold, 55, 75, 76, 156, 157.

La Farge, Raymond, 144.

Lami, Eugène, 275, 278.

‘La petite bestiole,’ story of, 115.

Lancey, Col. de, 195.

Lancret, 144.

Lane, Mr. and Mrs. John, 295.

Language of the fan, 136, 137, 253.

Lanoy, 278.

La Salle, Le Sieur de, 82, 83.

Layard, Nineveh, 11, note, 22, 25, note.

Le Brun, Charles, 139, 154, note.

Legends of the fan, 72.

Leicester, Earl of, 102.

Lewis, Mrs. Arthur, 286.

Lilliputian fans, 263.

Linas, Charles de, 30, 97, 98.

Lindsay, Lady, 133, 158.

Lithography, 271.

Liturgic fans, 97.

Loire, Nicholas, 204, 206.

Loti, Pierre, 64.

Louise, H.R.H. Princess, Duchess of Argyll, 198, 277, 282.

Love fans, 262;
classes of, 262;
courting fan mounts, 263.

Lovers’ Agency Bureau, 155.

Mahábhárata, 33.

Maintenon, Madame de, 158.

Mai ogi, 62.

Makart, Hans, 283.

Making of a fan, number of persons employed, 121.

Malay Kris, 58.

‘Malbrouk,’ 207, 208, 211, 213.

Mantz, Paul, 143, 160, note.

‘Marat’ fans, 225-226.

Marcel, Gabriel, 131.

Margaret, Queen, 102.

Maria Theresa of Spain, 154, 162, 163.

Marie-Antoinette, 117, 132, 159, 166, 167, 168, 169, 213, 225.

Marquesas, 79.

Marriage fans of Charles II., 180.

‘Marriage of Cupid and Psyche,’ 123.

‘Marriage of Louis XIV. and Maria Theresa,’ 154.

‘Marriage of Napoleon with Marie Louise,’ 229.

Marston, Satires, 101.

Martial, _quotation_, 28, 31.

Martin, Julian, 156.

—— Robert, 156.

—— Simon-Étienne, 156.

—— William, 156.

Mary, H.R.H. Princess, 292.

—— Queen, 102.

Masanobu, 67.

—— Kiato, 69.

Matabei, 73, 85.

Mathilde, Princess, 281.

Meehan, _Famous Houses of Bath_, quotation, 261.

Medallion fan after Cosway, 195.

Medicis, Catherine de’, 144.

Meir, Rabbi Joseph Ben, 24.

Melville, Lewis, _quotation_, 259, 260.

_Menagiana_, quotation, 173.

_Mercure de France_, quotation, 149, 157.

Meredith, George, _Harry Richmond_, 4, 5.

Mésangère, M. de la, 105.

Messel, L. C. R., 71, 105, 114, 115, 153, 175, 187, 202, 288.

Meyer, M., 119, 277.

Mica, 78, 113, 114.

‘Midnight Modern Conversation, 1733,’ 239.

Mignard, Pierre, _Le Romain_, 140.

Ming dynasty, 54.

Mirabeau fans, 223.

Mita ogi, 73.

Modern and present-day fans, 74, 272;
decline of the fan industry and its causes, 272, 276;
conquest of Algeria by the French, 273;
production in 1847 and 1848 compared, 276;
machinery, 277;
brisé, 275;
exhibitions, 282, 283;
autograph and inscription, 285;
revival of ostrich feather, 287;
lace mounts, 291.

Montague, Mrs., 189, 288.

Monza, 95-97.

Moral reflections of a female reformer, 250.

More, Sir Thomas, _anecdote_, 9, note.

Moreau, Édouard, 290.

Morley, Henry, 236, 257.

Morrison collection, 73.

Moschus, 88.

Moss, Miss, 119, 166, 191, 198, 208, 273.

Mother of pearl, 53;
China, 55;
Japan, 74;
Queen Elizabeth, 102;
kinds of, 118.

‘Motion’ fan, 241, 242.

Motonobu, 67.

Mounts, Italian, 122;
subjects of, 123;
Neapolitan, 124;
French, 122, 123;
English, 179;
Dutch, 197.

Mourning-fans, 194, 225, 244.

Mozart, 216.

Müller, Karl, 278.

Murray, C. Fairfax, 238.

Musée de Cluny, 91, 114, 146.

—— de Louvre, 222.

—— des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, 281.

Museo Civico, Venice, 273.

—— Gregorio, Rome, fan handles, 30.

—— Nazionale, Florence, 89.

Nai-To, 71.

Nan-ratan, or nine stone, 43.

Napoleon Bonaparte, 228, 229.

‘Napoleon shows his Troops the Channel,’ 229.

Nardaillac, Comtesse de, 279.

Nash, Beau, 258, 261.

—— E. Barrington, 276.

Nassau fans, 235, 236, 237, 238.

Neapolitan fans, 124.

Necromantic fans, 254, 255, 256.

Negroni collection, 285.

Nemours, Duchess de, 180.

New Nassau fan, 237.

Nigeria, 82, 83.

Nimroud, 20, 25.

Nitôcris, Queen, 19.

‘Nō’ drama, 63.

Nollekins, 185.

North American Indian fans, 14.

Northcliffe, Lady, 122, 123, 134, 165.

Oblong fans, 50.

Oldroyd, Miss L., 293.

Oliver, Peter, 180.

Olympian games, 23.

—— Jupiter, 23.

‘Oncle’ fans, 215.

Onola, Countess, 286.

Opera fans, French, 216, 217;
English, 262.

Operations of the pleating of the fan, 121.

Orange fan, 237.

Order of the fan, Sweden, 153, note.

Origin of the fan, 1-3.

Osborne, Thomas, 8, 252, 253.

—— Miss, 187.

Osiris, 15.

Ostrich, 40; folded, 105.

Ottley, Captain J. E., 122.

Ovid, _quotation_, 32.

Packering, Sir J., 103.

Paciandi, 93, note.

Painted fans of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries—
ITALIAN.—
Introduction of the folding-fan into Europe, 107;
excavation at the Château de Pierre, 108;
decorative development, 109;
earliest forms, 113;
construction, 116;
character of the sticks, 117;
ornamentation, 117, 118:
brisé fans, 119;
double or reversible, 120, 121;
mounts, 122, 123;
Neapolitan, 124;
children’s fans, 125;
superiority of the workmen, 126.
SPANISH, 127;
Italian influence on art, 128;
alliance of the House of Bourbon, 130;
Treaty of Paris, 130;
classical revival, 131;
character of the stick, 132, 133;
influence of Francisco Goya, 133, 134;
varieties of, 135;
language of, 136, 137.
FRENCH.—
Italian influence on, 138;
influences of Jean Cousin, François Clouet, 138;
Charles le Brun, 139;
Bernini, Borromini, 140;
the Revolution, 143;
introduction of Italian feather-fans, 144;
folded fans, 145;
découpé fans, 146;
importance of the industry, 146;
constitution of a corporate body of fanmakers under Louis XIV., 146;
prices obtained in 1753, 147;
painting and its influence during the reign of Louis XIII., 150;
Paris fan-shops, 151;
introduction of Spanish fashions, 152;
reign of the Grand Monarque, 154;
lacquering, 156, 157, 158;
Vernis Martin, 158;
classical influence, 163;
‘cabriolet’ fans, 164;
relapse of the industry, 165;
Handel and Gluck, 166;
custom of presenting wedding fans, 167;
influence of the Directoire and Empire periods, 170;
straw and spangles, 172;
gauze or net, 172;
lorgnette or opera-glass fan, 172;
reduction in size, 174.
ENGLISH.—
Early use of the folded fan, 176;
plumed fan, 176;
découpé, 178;
gigantic green-shading fans, 179;
influence of the trade with India, 179;
importation of Italian fan mounts, 179;
earliest fans, 180;
marriage fans of Charles II., 180;
charter of incorporation granted by Queen Anne, 181;
fan makers’ petition to Parliament demanding prohibition
of importation of fans from India, China, and the East, 182;
tax upon wooden- and feather-fans, 182;
importation of feather-fans forbidden, 182, 184;
disputes between Fanmakers’ Company and journeymen, 182;
extent of the industry and adverse conditions in the middle
of the eighteenth century, 182;
tea-merchants as dealers in imported fans, 183;
principal enactments regulating importations, 184;
London fan-shops, 187;
large fans, 187;
selection of partners at dancing assemblies, 189;
influence of peace between Austria and France, 190;
spangles, 191;
ivory brisé, 194;
Wedgwood, 194;
Napoleonic wars, 195.
DUTCH.—
Early uses, 197;
mounts, 197;
historical or fanciful subjects, 198;
influence of France, Italy, and China on the treatment
of the mount, 198;
Flemish, 199;
varnish, 200;
ivory brisé, 200;
horn, 201;
small decorated spangled, 201;
sticks, 202.
GERMAN.—
Medallion, 203;
lace or net, 203;
eighteenth century the era of the fan, 203.

Palliser, Mrs. Bury, 291.

Palm fans, 2, 42, 43;
lateral, 43, 78;
natural 77;
Talipot, 78;
Palmyra, 78.

Pankhá, 40, 41, 45, 78.

Papperitz, Georg, 284.

Parchment fens, 87.

Paris, Madame la Comtesse de, 203.

Parkman, Francis, 83, note.

Pasquier, Étienne, 115, 160.

Pattern fans, Etruscan, 30.

Pausanias, 23, 24, note.

‘Peace of Aix-la-Chapelle,’ 190.

Peacock: 30, 31, 39;
Greek, 29, 30;
Roman, 31, 87;
emblem, 39, 44;
India, 40;
quills, 42;
China, 46, 47;
feathers, 51, 87, 89;
Musci-fugium, 93;
plumes of, 101.

Perrot and Chipiez, 22, 24.

Persians, ventilating fan, 25;
fan crest, 27.

Petit, Édouard, 121, note.

Petrie, Prof. W. M. Flinders, 15.

Pheasant, 46; Argus, 54.

Philibert, St., 90.

Philippe le Bel, 196.

Phœnicians, 27.

Phœnix, 51, 56.

Phré, sacred barque of, 15.

‘Piazza of St. Mark, Venice,’ 125.

Pichard, le Sieur, 144.

Pictorial art, 141.

Piis, Augustin de, 2.

Pinchbeck, Jonathan, 235, 236, 237, 238, 243, 258, 259, 263, 264.

Piqué work, 117;
employment of, 119.

Plautus, flabelliferæ, 31.

Pleated fans, _vide_ Folded fans.

Pliny, sacrifices of Cyrenians, 23.

Poggi, 192, 193.

Poigey, Dr., 144.

Pollen, Mrs. Hungerford, 195.

‘Pompadour’ fan, 166.

Pompadour, Marquise de, 122.

Ponsonby, Lady, 124.

Pope, _quotation_, 174, note, 179.

Popelin, Claudius, 281.

Popular resorts, fans of, 256, 258, 259, 260, 261, 262.

Portraits, fans appearing in:
Queen Elizabeth, Anne of Denmark, Princess Elizabeth, wife
of John Pen, Esq., Sebastian del Piombo, 104;
Maria Giuseppa, Archduchess of Austria; Maria Cardina, Queen
of Naples; Queen Maria Cristina di Borbone; Queen Maria Louisa, 129.

Portugal, 100, 107.

Poussiégle, Achille, 285.

Present-day fans, _vide_ Modern fans.

‘Prince of Wales and Mrs. Fitzherbert,’ 195.

Prince of Wales (King Edward VII.), 34.

—— (King George IV.), 195.

Printed fans, 269.

Processional fans, Egyptian, 14, 15, 16, 17;
India, 42.

‘Promenade, the,’ 159.

Propertius, flabella, 31, 32.

Prouille, Monastery of, 91.

Rama, 39.

Rambert, C., 280.

Rameses XII., temple of, 15.

‘Rape of Helen,’ 158.

Raphael, 123.

Ratisbon, 35.

Rawlinson, Sir Henry, 22, note.

‘Reason for the Motion,’ 243.

Redgrave, S., 132, note, 150, 200, 276.

References of the fan in Holy Writ, 10, 11, 22.

Registrum Roff, 92, note.

Reiset, Frédéric, 174.

Rémusat, Abel, 57, note.

Reversible or double fan, 120, 121.

Rheims, 93.

Riant, Madame, 158.

Richelieu, Duc de, 149.

Riegl, Alois, 25.

Riester, 278.

Rikiu ogi, 73.

Riley, Henry Thomas, 95, note.

‘Rinaldo in the Garden of Armida,’ 166, 199.

Robespierre, 226.

Robinson, Sir John, 180.

—— Sarah, 180.

Rodney, Admiral, 245.

Roll-up fans, 74.

Romanelli, F., 122.

Rondot, Natalis, 49, 52, note, 53, 272, 273, 275, 277.

Roqueplan, Camille, 278.

Rosenberg, G. J., 99, 122, 154, 158, 284, 291.

Rothschild, Leopold de, 159, 273.

—— Baroness Meyer de, 192.

—— Baroness Salomon de, 43.

Rouen, 93.

Rousseau, 227.

—— Philippe, 278.

Royal Family, fans of, 245, 246, 247.

Rubens, 197.

Rush or grass fans, 77, 79, 83.

Ruspae, Bishop of, 98.

Rutlinger, J., 104.

Rutz, Gaspar, 8, note.

‘St.Peter’s, Rome,’ 125.

Sala, George Augustus, 2, 190, 298.

Salting collection, 91, 105.

Salwey, Mrs., 65, note, 73, 74, note, 76, note.

Sanchi, Tope, 34.

Sandalwood, 53, 55, 57, 58.

Sandwich Islands, 79.

‘Sans Gêne,’ 172.

Sargent, 215.

Sayiban, or sun-fan, 36, note.

Scaliger, 24.

Scented wood, 128.

Schönleber, Prof. Gustav, 284.

Schools of Japanese painting, 65, 66, 67.

Schreiber collection, British Museum, 6;
‘Aurora’ of Guido, 123;
‘Carrousel at Madrid,’ 129;
Surrender of Minorca, 1782, 133;
‘Grand Monarque,’ 154, 155;
Tea-merchant’s trade card, 183;
Goupy’s fan mount, 185;
Lionel Cust’s letter, 193;
Loire’s ‘Desseins de grands
Éventails,’ 206;
‘Biaggini’s Air Balloon,’ 214;
Figaro fans, 216;
‘Duc d’Orléans as Sponsor,’ 218;
‘Nicaragua Canal,’ 230;
‘Harlot’s Progress,’ 239;
‘Admiral Rodney,’ 245;
Royal visit to Royal Academy, 246;
‘Marriage of Prince of Wales’ (George IV.), 247;
opera fan, 262;
widowhood, 268;
‘Ascent of Mont Blanc,’ 276;
Madame Bisschop’s fan, 281.

Schreiber, Lady Charlotte, 193, 205, 244, 259, 268, 281.

Screens, pear-shaped, 48, 61;
white jade, 50;
hand, 50, 51, 75;
straw hand, 195;
engraved hand, 204, 217;
circular, 50, 51, 53, 61, 69;
cockade, 51;
ceremonial banner, 51, 61;
rigid, 61, 62, 69, 127;
silk, 61;
palm, 75;
large round, 127;
chinese feather, 288;
Queen Anne, 288.

Seliger, Max, 284.

Senefelder, Aloys, 271.

Sen-no Rikiu, 74.

Septvans, Sir Robert de, arms of, 11.

Seraphim, 88.

Sēsata, Cingalese, 37.

Sesshiu school, Japan, 62, 65, 66.

Sévigné, Madame de, 154, 159.

Sewell, Colonel, 183.

Shakespeare, _quotation_, 8, 9, 11, note, 19, 101, 176.

Shaku, 64, 65.

‘Sheba, Queen of,’ fan, 133.

Shunsui, 71.

Silk, 57, 71, 75.

Silver-handled fans, 101, 103.

Skin fans, chicken, 268; asses’, 273.

Smith, _Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities_, 12, note;
_Dictionary of Christian Antiquities_, 88, note.

—— Albert, Ascent of Mont Blanc, 276.

—— W. Harding, 70.

Soldé, A., 277, 288.

Solomon Islands, 79.

Sommerand, Du, 91.

South-Eastern Pacific, 84.

Spanish lady, management of the fan, 4.

Spatula, 80.

Speaking or conversation fan, 253.

Spear-shaped fans, 78.

_Spectator_, 4, 187, 189.

Spiers, R. Phené, 76.

Stanhope, Lord, 229.

Statutes regulating the fan industry, 146.

Steele, _Tatler_, 5-6, 179, 187.

Stiletto, _Italian_, 58.

‘Storming of the Bastille,’ 219, 220, 221.

Stow’s _Chronicle_, 53.

Strange, Sir Robert, 243.

Strickland, Agnes, _quotation_, 179.

Strogonoff collection, 25.

‘Stuart, Athenian,’ 185.

Sudan, Western, 84.

Sim goddess, 74.

‘Surrender of Malta,’ 195.

‘Surrender of Minorca’ 133.

Sutherland, Duke of, 195.

Suye hiro ogi (wide end), 63.

‘Swanne downe,’ 102.

Swift, Dean, 263.

Swinging-fans, 25.

Sydney, Sir Robert, 103.

Tabellæ, Roman, 32, 51.

Tadahira, 65.

Tahiti, 85.

Taira, 69, 72.

Taishin, 74, 75.

Tajima, 8, 69.

Talc, 44.

Tallien, Madame, 171.

Tanagra figures, 29.

Tanjore, 44.

Taoist Genii, 47, 61, 67.

Tasso, Torquato, legendary account of, 113.

_Tatler_, John Hughes, 189.

—— Steele, 5, 6, 179, 187.

Tea ceremony, China, 57;
Japan, 74.

Tea fans, 74.

Terence (_Eunuchus_), _quotation_, 31.

Testament du Louis XVI., 224.

Tête-à-tête fan, 254.

Theodolinda, Queen, 95, 97.

Thiac, M. de, 169.

Thomas, Felix, 24.

Thornbury, Walter, 142.

‘Toilette de Madame la Marquise de Montespan,’ 159.

Tomkinson, M., 56, 75.

Tonga Islands, 85.

Tooth relic of Buddha, 43, note.

Topical fans, 206.

Topographical fans, 191.

Tortoise-shell, 53, 54, 57, 58, 74, 119. 132.

Tournus, 89, 96, 97.

Trevelyan, Sir W. C., Bart, 85.

Trèves, Gospel of, 93.

‘Trial of Warren Hastings,’ 247.

‘Trips to Gretna,’ 267.

‘Triumph of Alexander’ (after Le Brun), 123.

‘Triumph of Amphitrite,’ 180.

‘Triumph of Bacchus,’ by A. Carracci, 180.

‘Triumph of Mordecai,’ 123.

Tsunenori, 65.

Tsunetaka, 66.

Turtle-shell, 50.

Ukiyoyé school, 66.

Ulféda, 97.

Ulrica, Louisa, 153.

Umbrella, importance and significance of, in the East, 33-36;
in Bacchic processions, 36;
in early Persian reliefs, 35;
form-connection between fan and umbrella 36;
Cingalese, 36.