Chapter V

ON the morning of the 12th December, our other preparations being completed, we commenced loading the camels. The distribution of the baggage was a very tedious operation, owing chiefly to the quarrelling of the drivers with each other, every man trying to get as light a load as possible for his own camel. The baggage required on the journey had to be kept separate from the rest, and each load had to be divided so as to balance on the camel’s back,—a complicated arrangement, which led to endless wrangling on the part of the drivers. It was only after summoning to our aid the Kaimakam, who threatened them with imprisonment and bastinado, that we at last got the caravan under weigh. It consisted of ten camels, on two of which our Maltese servants were mounted, four camel-drivers and four blacks on foot, and Mr. Cesareo, two guides, and ourselves on horseback. We left late in the afternoon, and were accompanied some distance by Mr. Crowe, and his interpreter Mr. Levi. It was with great regret that we bade him adieu, although little thinking that we should never see him again. We had spent twelve days with him most pleasantly, and his kind hospitality had made even Benghazi a second home to us.

We halted for the night at the “Garden of Osman” mentioned above. This is a favourite resting-place for caravans starting from Benghazi, as it has a well of excellent water, with which the Arabs fill their “girbehs” before proceeding on their journeys. Here we pitched our two tents, one for our servants and baggage, and the other for Mr. Cesareo and ourselves. The following morning, after filling our water-skins and loading the camels, we started at half-past eight, and rode straight across the plain in the direction of the hills. Before we had reached them, however, the rain, which had been threatening all the morning, began to pour in torrents. Further progress was impossible, as the camels could hardly keep their feet on the soft slippery ground; and we were consequently obliged to halt about the middle of the day at the foot of the range of hills known as the Augŭbah of Benghazi. We chose the best site for encamping we could find, but had great difficulty in pitching our tents, on account of the high wind and the softness of the ground, which by this time was saturated with water. We had to make use of our storm guys, as the ordinary ones were much too short to keep the tents up by themselves. It was nearly evening before we had everything snug for the night. Our efforts to light a fire, after innumerable failures, were finally successful, and soon after dark we had a splendid bonfire, which had a most cheering effect. The appearance of our little camp was very striking,—camels kneeling round the tents, horses picketed here and there, and groups of wild-looking Arabs crouching near the fire, while all around was perfect darkness. Our Barbary mats proved a great luxury, as the ground had become a perfect puddle with the trampling of men and animals. Before we got under the shelter of the tents, we had ample opportunity of testing the utility of the Arab burnouses we had bought in Benghazi. The burnous—the origin of the graceful one worn by ladies in Europe—is a long grey and white striped woollen cloak with a hood, made throughout in one piece, without seams, and woven thick and close enough to be waterproof. It is specially adapted for riding, as it forms a sort of _tente d’abri_ for both horse and horseman. In fine weather it may be rolled up and strapped to the Ds of the saddle like a cavalry cloak.

The following day, the 14th, the weather was fine; but we were unable to start, as the ground was still too slippery for the soft flat feet of the camels. Meantime, two Arabs arrived, who were sent by the Kaimakam to act as guides or escort; thus increasing our total number to seventeen. We would willingly have dispensed with their presence, as they only added to the number dependent on our rather slender stock of provisions; but as the Kaimakam insisted on their accompanying us, we thought it ungracious to send them back, and allowed them to remain. We spent the day pleasantly enough, walking about the neighbouring hills and ravines, and shooting partridges. We found neither golden plovers nor sand-grouse, although they had been very plentiful near Benghazi.

Next morning, as the weather continued fine, we struck our tents, packed up, and started about half-past nine. We ascended the Augŭbah by a rugged path winding through a ravine, until we emerged on an extensive plateau. For some miles the surface was undulating, with here and there patches of trees and brushwood. In many places the landscape was very pleasing, and somewhat resembled an English park on a large scale. During summer the aspect is very different, as the verdure entirely disappears under the scorching rays of the sun. As we proceeded, the scene became less and less diversified, until we found ourselves traversing what appeared a boundless plain, with neither tree nor shrub to be seen. Some two or three miles to our left, the ground rose slightly, forming a range of low hills parallel to our route. We saw very little game, and were only able to add one partridge to our stock. Shortly before sunset, we turned off our track to the low hills on the left, where we pitched our tents in a very pretty spot among shrubs and small trees, about a hundred yards from a Bedouin encampment. A good fire soon cooked our dinner, which, on this occasion, was improved by the addition of some mushrooms gathered during the day.

The following morning, the 16th, we started about nine, and continued our route across the plain nearly in a due easterly direction. There was a strong southerly wind all day, which was so bitterly cold, that we were glad to wrap ourselves in our comforters and burnouses for protection. We were rather astonished at the time to find the cold so piercing; but we afterwards observed that the south wind, proverbially a hot one in summer, is invariably the coldest in winter; a fact which may be accounted for by the effect of the great tract of elevated land which extends far to the southward, compared with the moderating influence of the Mediterranean on the north. After riding about eighteen miles, our path, for four or five miles, lay through a thick wood of juniper and cedar trees, which for a time sheltered us from the biting wind. When we had passed the wood, we saw the castle of Merdj about three miles distant, near the south-western end of the plain of the same name. Shortly after four o’clock we arrived at the Castle, where we were warmly welcomed by the Mudir, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha, who had just arrived from Barca, a district under his rule, to the southward of Benghazi. Our camels did not arrive till after dark.

Hadji Achmet made us as comfortable as possible in his only room, and gave us the most sumptuous dinner that could be provided.

During the night the rain began again, and continued at intervals all next day, so that we were obliged to remain two days until the ground dried. The delay, however, was not unpleasant, as Hadji Achmet did everything in his power to make our stay agreeable. He was particularly jovial and good-humoured; so much so, that it was impossible to be out of spirits in his company. He enjoyed hearing amusing stories, and had a fund of them of his own, which he told with great glee. He was descended from an old and powerful family in Mesurata, near Tripoli, and as commander of the Koralié, had rendered good service to the Sultan’s Government during the rebellion of Ghomer. It was by him that Ghomer was at last taken and slain.

The castles of Merdj and Ghegheb were built about fifteen years ago by the Turks, and are always occupied by one or two companies of regular Turkish troops. They were intended as a means of overawing the Arabs, and assisting the Mudirs in collecting the tribute. They have utterly failed in attaining the former object; but, inasmuch as they afford a comparatively safe residence for the Mudir and his money-chest, they may be said, in some degree, to have accomplished the latter. The Castle or Gŭsr (Arabicè) of Merdj is a quadrangular casemated building with round flanking towers at the angles, in each of which an old 9-pounder carronade is mounted on a superannuated carriage. The garrison at this time consisted of ninety cavalry, fifty infantry, and three officers. The room to the left of the entrance is the Mudir’s, that on the right the prison, and the remainder barracks and stables. The four marble pillars shown in the Plate were found near the spot, and placed here to ornament the Mudir’s room. Two of the capitals, of a mixed Corinthian order, stand near them at the end of the room; the other two are imitated in stucco. The Castle, although very dilapidated in appearance, is strong in reality, being built for the most part of squared blocks of stone found on the spot. It stands a little elevated above the surrounding plain, on a small plateau formerly the site of Barca, an offshoot of Cyrene, which attained to considerable size and importance, and was one of the five cities which constituted the Pentapolis. Remains of the ancient city may be seen in the materials of which the Castle is built, and in the walls of the few wretched houses which have sprung up near it; but none of them are worthy of any note. Near the gate of the Castle, however, there is a deep well lined with masonry, evidently of ancient date, which was discovered during the building of the Castle by some workmen, who were digging for blocks of stone. It yields an abundant supply of water, which, although very brackish, is a great boon to the surrounding country during summer.

The plain of Merdj is of great extent, measuring upwards of twenty miles in length, and from six to eight in breadth. It is perfectly level, and is surrounded by ranges of hills, of which those on the east rise to a height of about 500 feet above the plain. As seen from the hills, it appears to have been at one time the bed of a lake. Its elevation above the sea is probably about 1,000 feet. The soil is a deep rich loam, about one third of which is under cultivation, and yields abundant crops of wheat and barley. The rest of the plain is good grazing land, and is much frequented by Arab encampments with their flocks during the early part of summer, before the pools which have formed in winter are dried up.

The weather having cleared up, we again got the caravan together, and started on the morning of the 19th. The ground was still rather soft, so that the camels could only walk at a slow and cautious pace. Our kind host had loaded us with as many provisions as we could carry; among other things, a sheep, bread, butter, and dates, and barley for the horses. We shall always have a pleasant recollection of Gŭsr Merdj and its hospitable Governor, Hadji Achmet Bin ’l Agha (Pilgrim Achmet the Son of the Ruler).

After crossing the plain in a north-easterly direction, we reached the hills about mid-day. As we approached the verge of the plain, the country became well wooded, the hills at the base being covered with olives, and higher up with pines and junipers. A large quantity of oil might be made every year from the olives; but the Arabs are either ignorant of its value or too careless to take the trouble of collecting the berries, which are left to be eaten by the goats. The remainder of the day’s journey was chiefly through thick woods, in which we saw, for the first time, the arbutus, which was then in full bloom, being covered with both flower and fruit. The berries are of a bright red colour, somewhat resembling strawberries in appearance, and, although not luscious, are by no means disagreeable when quite ripe, notwithstanding Pliny’s remark that they are called _unedo_, because he who has eaten one will never wish to eat another. The bark is useful for tanning purposes, and good charcoal has been made from the wood.

After travelling eight hours, we encamped for the night by some wells in an open cultivated plain. The camels, as usual, were late in coming up, and it was quite dark before we got the tents pitched. While waiting for their arrival, we shot a good many golden plover.

The following day, we continued our journey through a very beautiful country, the track passing over a succession of hills, from the summits of which we had many extensive views. The valleys, enclosed by the well- wooded sides of the hills, were frequently quite picturesque. To relieve the monotony of the march, we used to ride on some miles ahead of the caravan with one or two of the guides, until we reached a likely place for game, where, leaving our horses in charge of the guides, we walked about the covers shooting what we could find till the caravan came up. In this way, we kept up our supplies without being obliged to encroach on our small stock of preserved meat. This day we got a couple of hares, seven partridges, and twenty-five golden plovers. We encamped at night in the bottom of a ravine, where we found some water in the hollows of the rock.

Next day, the 21st, we passed over a similar tract of country, the features of which, however, became more strongly marked as we advanced, the hills becoming higher and steeper, and more frequently intersected by rugged ravines. Towards evening, we encamped by the side of an ancient hill-fortress, doubtless of Roman construction, called by the Arabs Gŭsr Biligadem, which occupies a most commanding position on the top of a hill. The scenery in the immediate neighbourhood is very beautiful, and the view from the Castle is one of the finest and most extensive in the Cyrenaica. The Castle is an oblong building, measuring 160 feet by 80, with a square flanking tower in the centre of each of the longer sides. It is still wonderfully perfect, the walls in some parts still standing to a height of 40 feet. Traces of a ditch and counterscarp may also be seen on two of its sides. It is built throughout of large squared blocks without mortar, and each wall is double, consisting, in fact, of two walls built close to each other, but without any connecting bond. Over the entrance, there is a double arch, the inner one of which is built on the radiating, and the outer on the more ancient horizontal principle. Near the Castle, there is a large well, now choked up, and a number of tombs cut in the sides of the rock.

Forts in similar positions occur in different parts of the Cyrenaica, none of which, however, are nearly so perfect as Biligadem. They were most probably built by the Romans soon after they acquired possession of the country, and were placed so as to protect the communications between the different cities.

The following day, the 22nd, we started as early as possible, in the hope of reaching Cyrene before sunset; but, owing to an error on the part of the guide, night overtook us about four hours’ distance from our destination. Immediately after leaving Biligadem, we descended into a deep narrow ravine with rocky sides, called the Wady Il Aggur, the bottom of which was covered with pines of immense size. Under the pines, there was a perfect thicket of smaller trees and shrubs, such as the carub or locust-tree, the juniper, oleander, &c. After winding along this Wady for five hours without seeing any possible means of exit, we turned up a smaller ravine to our left, and managed to climb to the top. Soon afterwards, we passed the Zauyah El Beidah, the only modern building we had seen after leaving Benghazi, except the Castle of Merdj. A _Zauyah_ in Barbary is a sort of Mahomedan monastery and mosque combined. The resident devotees, called _Achwan_, who, except in the matter of celibacy, somewhat resemble monks, are under a chief, called the _Sheikh El Zauyah_, a man of immense influence, as we afterwards learned by most unpleasant experience. They belong to the sect of El Senoussy, so called from the name of the founder, who died not many years ago. Their chief object appears to be the revival of the fanaticism and intolerance of the good old times of the true faith.

As it began to get dark soon after we had passed the Zauyah El Beidah, we were obliged to halt and encamp for the night.

ENCAMPMENT NEAR A ROMAN FORTRESS (GŬSR BILIGADEM)

E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.

London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]

Next morning, the 23rd, we started at nine, and after a three hours’ ride, arrived at Cyrene soon after midday. It was a cold gusty day, and before we had reached our destination, the rain was falling in torrents. The mist prevented our seeing to any distance; but the country immediately around us, being perfectly destitute of trees and even shrubs, looked desolate in the extreme. Meantime, we sought temporary shelter from the storm in some rock tombs near the Fountain of Apollo. When the rain had somewhat abated, we selected the cleanest and most convenient of them for our future residence, and immediately set to work to clear out the earth and rubbish with which it was nearly filled. When the caravan arrived, some three hours afterwards, the drivers were so impatient to be off, that they would not even stay to assist us in getting the baggage under shelter. Our first night in our new quarters was certainly rather cheerless. Bags and boxes soaked with the rain lay in confusion on the muddy floor of the tomb, and no dinner could be had for want of a fire to cook it.

We spent the whole of the next day in making our quarters as comfortable as possible. The tomb we ourselves occupied was at the bottom of a steep hill about 250 yards from the Fountain, and almost overhead there was a long range of larger chambers also cut in the rock, which we used as servants’ quarters, kitchen, stable, &c. Our room had two doors or openings, one of which we built half-way up with stones and mud, leaving the upper part open to serve as a window. The mats which we had bought at Benghazi made an excellent carpet, and one of them suspended over the entrance was a good substitute for a door. In the course of time, we gradually improved our quarters by paving the entrance with tiles, making steps up to the kitchen, &c. We contrived to build quite a respectable door with rough planks cut from the trunks of trees.

Having found on our arrival at Tripoli that our firman gave us authority to dig for sculptures, and remove such as we found, we were anxious before leaving Benghazi, to engage a few workmen to accompany us. Mr. Crowe accordingly got us four negroes, whose liberation from slavery he had recently obtained from the Kaimakam. Three of them having only just been brought from the interior, could hardly speak a word of Arabic. They seemed very glad to go with us, and all went well till we reached Merdj, where we were told one morning, to our astonishment, that they had enlisted as soldiers. Our friend, the Mudir, immediately ordered them to be brought before him, but the only explanation he could get from them was, that they preferred becoming soldiers to being killed. They appeared to be highly indignant about something, and determined not to go on with us. Some soldiers were also interrogated, but no explanation could be elicited. It afterwards came out, however, that some of the black soldiers had assured them that we were taking them into the desert to cut their throats, and look for treasure with their blood. The Mudir, with great difficulty, induced them to remain with us, but it was some days before they were quite convinced of the innocence of our intentions.

_From a Photograph._]

WESTERN HILL OF CYRENE, WITH ENTRANCE TO THE FOUNTAIN OF APOLLO

E. A. Porcher, delt., T. Picken, lith.

London. Published July 1st. 1864 by Day & Son, Lithographers to the Queen &c., Gate Street Lincoln’s Inn Fields.

Day & Son, Lithrs. to the Queen]