Chapter IV: Part 4

For green, Ivy, Maiden Hair, Ferns or Brake, Mosses, &c., retain their color best. Rarely a cultivated green leaf presses well. Autumn leaves, if small, and the youngest oak leaves, mix in well. Certain kinds of stems, such as Pansy, and others of similar character, are best adapted for pressing.

After your collection is made, take some card-board, without a polish if possible, and arrange your flowers as you design to have them. Gum them to the paper with tragacanth, using a camel’s hair brush, then press on the paper and flower with a cloth, carefully absorbing all moisture, as well as firmly pressing the flower on the paper. Geraniums and some large flowers look better if each leaf is glued on separately.

In forming your bouquet, it is better to arrange the stems first and work upwards. Baskets and vases of moss with flowers are pretty. To form these you must trace out with a pencil your vase or basket, and glue on the moss. Then arrange your flowers.

We have heard amusing criticisms on the coloring of such bouquets from persons who mistook them for paintings. Framed and covered with a glass, they make ornamental pictures.

It is a pleasant way of preserving mementos of friends, places, or events. Flower albums or journals are very beautiful. Wreaths arranged of different varieties of Pelargoniums, mixed in with any pretty green, and other little flowers, such as Lobelias, are very handsome, and the colors are durable. Pansies of different shades look well, and brilliant wreaths may be made of all the varieties of flowers that hold their color. The oval shape looks the best for wreaths.

There are innumerable varieties of Ferns, Lycopodiums, and Maiden Hair, both native and foreign, suitable for pressing. By pasting each specimen on a separate sheet, and interspersing specimens of our beautiful autumn leaves, also on separate sheets, and fastening them together, either bound as a book, or in a portfolio, you will possess a beautiful and attractive book with but little expense.

Crosses can be arranged with Ferns, and shaded to appear as if painted in perspective, and look like a cross standing on a mossy bank, with flowers, &c., growing around and over it. First draw and shade your cross, as a guide, then take the small leaflets of the darkest colored ferns you can procure, and glue them on carefully where the cross should be in shadow darkest, then take the brighter green Ferns (such as are gathered in spring), and end with the white Ferns (which can only be obtained in the fall), using them for the lightest shade; be careful to cover every part, and shade it with Nature’s colors as you would with paint. In a cross six inches high, and suitably proportioned, full two hundred of the tiny leaflets of the Fern may be used to good advantage before it is completed. Then take wild Lycopodium, if you can obtain it, if not, the finest of the cultivated, and arrange it on your cross to look like a vine growing over and hanging from it; also paste on to it tiny little pressed Lobelias, and arrange small Ferns, mosses, and any little flowers (wild ones are preferable) around the base of the cross, to look like a mossy bank. Different designs can be arranged in the same way.

Be very careful in pasting on flowers and leaves, that every part, however small, is firmly fixed to the paper; press them on after pasting with a dry cloth.

September is the time to collect the beautiful white ferns; the first slight frost turns the green fern white. They should then be gathered at once, and carefully pressed; when dry they resemble the skeleton leaves. A vase of these forms a beautiful winter ornament. If you defer gathering them till the heavy frosts come, they turn brown.

19.--STRAWBERRIES.

A few hints as regards the cultivation of strawberries may be useful to both boys and girls; for fine berries can be raised even on a small plot of ground, if the soil be rich. Plants for a new bed should be set out early in the spring; the roots will then grow strong, and the plants will be better able to bear the cold of winter. Some gardeners prefer to plant their strawberry roots in August, or even late in the autumn, and if the winter is mild, or deep snows cover the ground, the vines will live and bear fruit the next summer. Some prefer to raise strawberries in hills, but the most prolific vines are those planted in beds about three feet wide, with a path between, filled with straw, to keep the fruit from the ground; it is well to cut off most of the runners. Of course the beds should be kept free from weeds. There are many new varieties, but the old Hovey’s Seedling is as reliable as any, and very prolific. The Russell is easily propagated; vines planted in April will often yield fine strawberries in June. The Wilson is a profitable strawberry for the market because of its large yield, but it is hardly equal in flavor to the Hovey.

The Hovey will soon run out if planted by itself; it requires some other kind to be planted with it. The Pine is usually the variety selected for that purpose. It is useless to enumerate the several varieties, for nearly every locality has its favorite strawberry. Some kinds will scarcely bear a perfect berry in some locations, while in a different locality the same plant will be loaded with perfect fruit. Sometimes a healthy and vigorous-looking bed of strawberry plants will produce but few berries; then you must examine the blossoms, those which bear fruit will have the berry formed in the flower, while others will blossom freely, but do not bear fruit; these are the male plants, and it is better to leave but few of them in your strawberry beds. When you plant the new roots, dig a hole with a trowel and fill it with water, then spread out the roots and pack the earth close around them; but when they are fully rooted, and commence to grow, the earth should be kept loose around them.

Strawberry plants should be replanted every third year; it is best to change the location of the bed if possible, or at least to renew the soil. Boys or girls who raise and gather from their own little garden a dish of strawberries, will find great pleasure in presenting it to their friends as fruits of their own labor.

20.--GRAPES.

The care of the grape vine is a pleasant occupation. To gather the rich, ripe bunches of its delicious fruit is a grand enjoyment. Almost every one can command a spot of ground sufficient for the liberal support of a grape vine. It may be planted in any unappropriated corner about the house--a sunny spot is to be preferred; but a vine may do well with but little direct sunshine, if it is well sheltered and properly cared for. It may be planted at the foot of a tree, the branches of which are not near the ground, and it will find its way high up the tree, and will yield large crops of fine fruit, hidden among its own thick foliage and that of the tree, provided the ground immediately about its roots can be reached and kept warm by the sun’s rays.

As it grows, it will endeavor to adapt itself to the circumstances that surround it, and will take the direction your taste or convenience require it to follow. Its flexible branches are obedient to the gentle hand of the careful cultivator. You may train it upon stakes six or eight feet high, or upon a low trellis where the fruit will be within easy reach of your hand. You may have the fruit within a few inches of the ground, or by removing all the lower branches of the vine, you can cause the ripe bunches to hang in graceful festoons around and over the window of your chamber, high above the reach of accident and pilferers. The grape vine will do as it is bid, which is much more than can be said of some young people, whose eyes sparkle at the sight of its fruit.

In preparing the ground in which to plant the vine, reference must be had to the character of the soil. If the soil is clayey and cold, or if the neighboring surface is such as to turn an undue proportion of the rains upon the place where you propose to plant your vine, care must be taken to secure for the roots of the vine a sufficient drainage. If the roots of the vine are surrounded by wet and cold earth, the fruit will mature slowly, and will be endangered by the early frosts. You will secure a sufficient drainage by digging a hole three feet deep and five or six feet in diameter, and throwing into it small stones, fragments of bricks, or other like rubbish, to the depth of about eighteen inches, and filling to the surface with the soil. If the soil in which you propose to plant your vine is light, no artificial drainage will be necessary.

Dig over the ground, and mix with it some well-rotted manure or bone dust to the depth of your spade. The plan of trenching and deep manuring is of questionable advantage. The roots of the vine prefer to run near the surface, but they will seek the rich soil wherever it may be; and if they are drawn away from the surface of the ground and out of their natural direction to the colder soil below, the effect upon the fruit may be unfavorable, both as to quality and quantity.

In the ground thus prepared, set your young vine from the nursery. First, drive down a stake to which you can tie the young vine, then place the roots of the vine three inches below the surface of the ground, carefully spreading the roots so that they will be as nearly as possible in the position in which they grew in the nursery.

The beautiful operations of nature will then commence. The roots of the vine will at once begin to adapt themselves to their new home, and their delicate fibres will firmly clasp the particles of the well-prepared soil; the warm days of the early spring will draw the sap up through the whole length of the vine; the buds will open and exhibit their delicate tints, new shoots and broad green leaves will follow, and you can soon eat the fruit of your own labor, sitting beneath the shadow of your own vine.

21.--HOW TO ARRANGE SEA-MOSSES.

While our young friends are enjoying the pleasures of the sea-shore, there is no more delightful employment than gathering and preserving the beautiful flowers of the sea.

September is the time to collect the finest varieties of sea-mosses. Before you commence to arrange them, procure two pieces of deal board, about twenty inches long and twelve inches wide; some light-brown paper, and blotting paper, and white drawing paper. You will need camel’s-hair pencils, long, slender darning-needles (or common needles mounted on lucifer matches), a small piece of alum, and old cotton or linen cloth.

The best time for collecting the mosses is in the early morning, when, on your return, there is leisure for immediately laying them out. If you leave them until the next day, the chances are that one half of them will be spoiled. Do not collect many mosses at one time; for these flowers of the sea fade, and even decompose very fast, when roughly handled or carelessly gathered. If you cannot arrange them at once, put them either in an oil-skin bag, or a tin can, with sea-water. When you are ready to arrange them, take your drawing paper and cut it into large and small squares, or any size you desire. Get some soup plates, or any shallow dish; fill with fresh water; place a small piece of alum in each dish. Now have your camel’s-hair pencils and darning-needles, or needles mounted on matches, by your side. Then float a piece of sea-moss in fresh water. If very dirty or sandy, wash it first in clear water. Float it on a piece of paper, which must be placed under it with the left hand, while with your right hand you arrange the plant in a natural manner, using your camel’s-hair pencils and needles. Superabundant branches can be thinned out with small, sharp-pointed scissors. When the specimen is placed as you like it, cautiously raise the paper, that the position of the plant be not altered, and let it rest somewhere with sloping inclination, that the moisture may run off, while other specimens are treated in the same way. Do not leave them long thus, for they must be pressed before the paper is dry. In drying them, you must lay either old soft linen, or cotton over them, to prevent its sticking to the upper paper when pressing; as, in order to press it, you must first lay them in blotting paper, and then in brown, and place them, thus prepared, between your boards, and strap the two boards tightly together. The blotting paper and old cloth must be changed at least twice in drying large sea-weed. The second day place a heavy pressure on the boards used in pressing.

Sea-mosses are glutinous, and must be dried, and not pressed; and, when finished and dry, then moisten the under side of the paper, and press it gently. Others will not adhere to paper, and therefore, when dry, should be brushed over with a little isinglass, dissolved in gin, laid on warm; and they will then be fixed closely to the drawing paper.

Another preparation is one ounce of oil of turpentine, in which some gum mastic, the size of a nutmeg, has been dissolved. This gives a gloss to the specimen, and helps to preserve the color.

The finest and rarest specimens are found in the lowest tide pool, or cast up after a storm.

We have seen these sea-mosses, or sea-weeds, exquisitely arranged, representing flower painting.

Take the pink and green sea-weed, and with practice, moss-rose buds can be perfectly represented, also other flowers. Be careful and select fine-grained, at the same time _strong_ paper.

Every lover of nature should always possess a microscope. Examine with it many tiny specimens, condemned as too small to arrange in your album; it will reveal to you such form and color, provision and harmony, as the Almighty Creator conceals from the unseeing eye, and reveals to patient and intelligent search.

=HOUSE AND HOME ARTS.=

1.--KNITTING.

Plain knitting is but little noticed since knitting machines were invented. At present crochet work has taken its place, and fancy tatting. It will not be necessary for us to give any especial directions for these kinds of work, as nearly all our magazines give new directions in every number. But both crochet and tatting require eyesight. If a child is taught in early youth to knit well, all common knitting can be done without eyesight. We can _think_ better if our hands are employed on plain knitting. If our eyes have been overtasked, and cannot bear the light, we can knit in the dark. We always keep some common knitting, such as strips for a blanket, or stockings for the poor, on hand; and it is astonishing the amount of work accomplished in this way, as we can knit, if a neighbor calls, for it does not prevent our conversing freely, also we can knit and read.

We earnestly advise our young readers to learn to knit. Many persons in the present era are afflicted with weak eyes, and dislike to be idle; the knowledge of knitting would be a pleasure, also of netting, as that requires less eyesight than other branches of work. We will give the directions for knitting a few fancy articles, also the directions for knitting a common stocking, so that our young girls can knit substantial stockings for the poor. During the last war, when our young ladies were called upon to knit stockings, how few knew how! So many, who earnestly desiring to do their part, were obliged to learn the rudiments of knitting!

2.--HOW TO KNIT A STOCKING.

First select four smooth steel needles of a size suitable for the woollen or cotton yarn you intend to use. If you cannot tell yourself, the person of whom you purchase your yarn can select suitable needles. Your stitches should be cast on with double yarn. Knitting them on is preferable; first form a loop on one needle, then by knitting that loop with another needle, the required stitches can be formed. Some persons prefer a little elastic roll at the top; this is formed by knitting eight or ten rows round plain, then turn directly back and knit on the wrong side a few times.

But the most common mode is purl every two stitches. This is done by knitting two stitches and purling two. It is well to continue this for a gentleman’s stocking or a boy’s all the way to the heel, as they cling better to the leg, or purl two and knit two for a half a finger, then knit a finger and a half plain, and end the leg part by purling two and two again at the ankle for an inch. If the stocking is for a lady, after knitting four or five inches from the top (the first inch being purled every two stitches), the narrowing should be commenced. In plain knitting, one needle is called the seam needle, for the centre stitch should be purled, and one must be taken to purl that same stitch the whole length of the leg. The narrowing of the leg should be done on each side of the seam stitch. Then knit five or six rows before narrowing again. The leg should be narrowed thus seven or eight times to form a good shaped leg.

No rules for length, or the number of stitches to be cast on a needle, can be given, as nearly every person differs in size. The only sure way is to measure by some old stocking. The heel must contain just half the stitches in the whole stocking. Take off the stitches, for the heel, on to one needle. A long heel makes a better shaped stocking than a short one. When nearly done, narrow five or six times on each side of the purl; for, in taking off the stitches for the heel, the purl stitch must be in the centre of the heel needle. The heel is knit backwards and forwards like a garter, only it is purled all across on the wrong side. The narrowing must all be done on the plain knitting side. Some persons knit the heel with double yarn; others, on the purling side, slip a stitch and knit a stitch all across, and the next time the purling side is knit, slip the stitch you _knit_ before. This makes a strong heel, almost equal to running a heel after it is knit. To bind off the heel, you must place half the stitches on one needle and half on another, then place them side by side, and knit two stitches together with a third needle, slip the first stitch knit with the third needle over the second stitch all across, never leaving but one stitch on the needle. Some finish the heel differently; they take just half the stitches of the heel in the middle of the needle, leaving a quarter on one side and a quarter on the other, and only knit the middle, but each time take up one stitch from the side, and narrow it with one on the middle, until all the stitches on the side are gone.

The foot is formed by taking up the loops on each side of the heel (these loops are formed in knitting the heel, by always slipping the first stitch, as in a garter). In knitting round the first time, it is necessary to widen on the heel every third stitch, by taking up an additional loop. It should then be narrowed on the corner of the side needles, by narrowing two together of the four last stitches on the first needle, then on the other side needle knit two plain, slip a stitch and knit a stitch, and put the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, until the foot is small enough. After the first few times around, it shapes the instep better to narrow, then knit around without slipping and binding. The next time knit past the narrowing side plain, and slip and bind, therefore the size is only lessened one stitch every row, forming a long gore. The toe is formed by narrowing at the beginning and end of each needle; first knit two plain and narrow, then leave four at the end of the needle, narrow the first two, and knit the other two plain; before narrowing, see that the stitches on each needle number the same. Knit around three times plain, then narrow as directed. Knit three plain rounds between the narrowing three times. Then knit twice around plain, three times between the narrowing; then once, then narrow every time till there are only four stitches; break off your yarn, leaving sufficient to draw through the four stitches, and with a darning needle fasten it strong.

Another way to narrow a toe off, is to narrow every seven stitches when you begin the toe; knit seven times around, and narrow every six stitches; knit six rows and narrow every five stitches; knit five rows and narrow every four stitches, so on to the end.

3.--BABY’S KNITTED JACKET.

Cast on two hundred stitches on good sized steel needles, knit quarter stitch eleven purls, that is twenty-two times across; then, with colored split worsted, knit three purls, then narrow every time, putting the worsted twice over the needle each time to make holes; knit three purls, then commence with the white worsted; knit fourteen purls; divide the stitches into three parts, fifty on each side, one hundred in the middle. Commence with the middle, knit twenty-two purls, then narrow each side of the needle every other time, making twenty-two purls, bind off. Knit the fronts the same way, narrowing only on one side.

SLEEVES.

Cast on sixty-five stitches, knit thirty-six purls, narrowing each side of the needle every eighth purl; knit three purls with color, make holes, then three more purls, bind off fifty-four stitches, then sew up the shoulders, take up the stitches round the neck, knit the same with the colored worsted, as the border on the sleeves, take up stitches down each side of the front, knit the same border, only have one purl before making the holes, then knit two purls.

BORDER.

Cast on eighteen stitches, and knit the same as border for blanket, making seven holes instead of four. _Split worsted is preferable._

4.--BABY’S BLANKET.

Commence with thirty stitches on a needle, and knit Brioche stitch. Knit till you can count twenty-four loops, then change the color (the stitch to be knit, is slip a stitch, put thread in front and narrow, all across, on both sides the same). You must always join the color on the same side, and have a colored square in each corner of your blanket. Knit seven squares in each strip, and seven strips form the inside of the blanket.

5.--BORDER TO BLANKET.

Cast on ten stitches, knit two plain, put your worsted in front and narrow all the rest, but knit the last stitch plain; that is, put your thread in front and narrow two together, till there are two left; then put your thread in front and knit one stitch; then the last one plain; knit back plain; then knit three stitches, and the same as before, only add a stitch every other time across, till you have nineteen stitches; then knit twice plain, and knit eight, and narrow; then put your thread in front and narrow four times; knit last stitch plain always, knit back always plain; decrease one every other time till you have ten, then knit a plain row to join your other color. All the scallops are knit the same, and it needs thirty-two blocks of edging to go round the blanket. The colored point of each corner must be gathered up to the point close, thus making the white come on each side of the colored square.

It takes eight ounces of common zephyr worsted, four ounces of each color.

This enlarged, makes very handsome carriage blankets, with a palm leaf worked in each square; but instead of a knitted border, it is better to tie in a heavy fringe of worsted.

6.--KNITTED BED-QUILTS.

This requires a whole box of the red and white Saxony yarn.

This should be knit with the finest ivory needles. Cast on forty stitches. Knit the stripes garter stitch; that is, knit backwards and forwards plain knitting, slipping always the first stitch on the needle. Knitting it thus, it makes every other time across look like purling. The stripes must be four hundred purls in length; it needs eleven stripes, red and white alternately. These stripes must be sewed together, and the ends finished off with a fringe, or knit a border. The directions given for the border to the first baby’s blanket, knit it broader by knitting six or seven stitches plain before you widen or narrow to make holes.

A “couvre-pied” can be knit in the same manner, only knit the stripes three hundred and ten purls in length.

7.--BABY’S BLANKET.

A beautiful blanket can be knit with stripes, alternating pink and white. Knit plain garter stitch, each stripe a yard long; the white stripes should be the narrowest, eighteen stitches for the white and twenty-two for the pink. When finished, then work in the white stripes, a pink rose-bud and a green leaf, as small as possible, then sew all together, making the blanket a square yard.

BORDER.

Cast on sixteen stitches.

_First row._ Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit two, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit five.

_Second row._ Knit seven, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

_Third row._ Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit thirteen.

_Fourth row._ Knit thirteen, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

_Fifth row._ Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit two, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit five.

_Sixth row._ Knit seven, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit three, purl one, knit two, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

_Seventh row._ Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit six, turn.

_Eighth row._ Cast off five, knit ten, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

8.--SOFA CUSHION.

Cast by knitting sixteen stitches, knit plain four rows like a garter, knit eight stitches, turn and purl four, knitting heel stitch (that is, plain in front, and purl on the back side), ten times on the four stitches. Then slip the four stitches from the needle while you take up the next four, then return them again and knit the remaining four, turn and knit twelve stitches, then take up the last loop on the roll, and narrow it off with the first stitch of the last four, then knit the last three plain. Then knit four rows plain (which makes three rows of purling on the right side between each roll). Now commence another roll, same as before. It takes seven ounces of tapestry worsted, or double zephyr, one ounce to a stripe. Be careful and select colors that will harmonize together.

9.--TABLE MATS.

Table mats, made of coarse white tidy yarn--with the plain crochet stitch and a scallop border--are easily worked, and do not strain the eyes.

10.--CARRIAGE OR BED-ROOM MAT.

A very pretty carriage or bed-room mat may be made in knitting. Collect as much flannel list, or flannel and woollen cloth as you can; cut it into short lengths, and knit a few rows, for a foundation, in twine. Then take a piece of list, put it across the string, and knit it in tightly; knit the pieces of list in this way all across; then knit a row plain; then knit in a row with the list. If you knit an edge of scarlet flannel, say six rows first, and six stitches at the beginning and end of each row, of pieces of the scarlet, and six rows of scarlet at the ending, your mat will be improved, particularly if the centre is knit entirely of gray list, as the gray and scarlet are very effective. When completed, line it with a nice coarse brown cloth. Pretty mats can be knit entirely of old pieces of cloth of any kind, by cutting it in narrow strips and sewing each strip together; knit it with large needles either in strips or squares, and sew them firmly together; take your pieces at odd times and strip them up, and as you sew them together, roll them into balls ready for knitting, then arrange your colors to harmonize together.

11.--KNITTED MOSS.

Cast on about fifty stitches of light green Berlin wool; slip a stitch on your needle without knitting, and knit the next row. Continue the same until you have finished two skeins of wool, taking care never to knit the first stitch of each line. Then knit on it, in the same manner, two skeins of the next shade darker of color, and continue in the same manner until you have knitted up five shades of green; join on a rich brown, and a faded moss-colored wool, and then cast off. Wet your knitting through with clear water, then dry it over a furnace register, or cover it with a paper or cloth, and press it with a hot iron. Let it remain for a few hours untouched, then unfasten the last stitch, and pull it out. It will unravel easily, from the first stitch of each row not having been knitted, and you will have a good curling imitation of moss to sew on to baskets or for borders of mats.

12.--PLAIN NEEDLE-WORK, AND USEFUL HINTS FOR YOUNG LADIES.

Our young ladies formerly were educated thoroughly in needle-work. Plain sewing was taught in the primary schools; but, alas! these times seem past; it is rare to find a little girl of even ten years old who can hem a pocket-handkerchief well. The children of our mechanics grow up with but little knowledge of useful work. Their mothers, with mistaken love, mend, dress, and make their wearing apparel. Often they marry wholly ignorant of the accomplishments _necessary_ for a true wife and helpmeet--that is, the knowledge of housekeeping, plain sewing, and cutting out the simplest garment.

Who is to blame for this? The excuse of many a hard-working mother is, “I have not had time to teach my daughters;” and of our ladies of wealth, “I did not suppose my daughters would ever be poor, or require such knowledge!”

It is a very great pity sewing is not taught in our common schools. It is quite as important to our girls as reading, writing, spelling, &c. There is no country in the world where a _practical_ education is so necessary as in ours, the fluctuations of fortune are so great. The rich man of to-day may be the poor man of to-morrow. Therefore every boy and girl in the land should have a useful and practical education. Our girls especially, rich or poor, need a knowledge of practical housekeeping; it is not possible for any lady to be a good housekeeper unless she knows how things should be done herself, as a trained servant in our free country is rarely found.

Plain sewing is also very important to be learned in early youth. In these days of machinery much of the old plain work is done by the swift needle of the sewing machine, rather than by hand; and it is expected, by and by, that hemming, stitching, over-hand work, and gathering will be as much forgotten as the old tambour stitch and embroidery of our ancestors. But we maintain that a person to work well on a machine should first be taught to sew well, and it is quite possible work may be required when no machine is to be hired. If young ladies are always able to hire their sewing, it may be pleasant to work for the poor. We hope our young readers may be induced, of their _own_ desire, to become _good sempstresses_. If any one reading this book is induced to obtain _practical_ knowledge on the subject, we shall feel repaid, and we would gladly hear from them. We will now give a few directions as an assistance, at the same time begging our young readers to remember that one lesson from a good sempstress is worth a dozen pages of print.

A hem should be, generally, narrow and very even; if it is to be wide, cut a measure the desired width, and be careful to have it exact; the stitches should be taken through, but so small as to be nearly invisible. A hem on clear muslin will look neater if it is finely _run_ like the seam of a dress.

In over-hand sewing the stitches should be taken on the edge of the two sides, and should lay quite close to each other, so as to look like purling.

In stitching you should only take up two threads, both behind and before the needle.

Gathering is done on the needle, two threads taken up and four left, and the line should be kept very straight by a thread, if possible. The gathers, when finished, are drawn very tightly together on the thread, and stroked down smoothly with a strong needle or pin.

Darning is done by taking every other thread (in a stocking), and leaving a long loop at the end of each line. The darn is crossed by taking every other thread alternately, each way. It used to be called “weaving.” If muslin is to be darned, it is better to use ravellings of the same instead of thread.

Should you have a rent in a dress to repair, use ravellings of the same material; they are easily to be obtained from the turning in of the top of the skirt, if you have no pieces; but generally some are left by the dressmaker, and should be kept for such accidents. In mending by piecing, be careful that you do it very neatly; match stripes or patterns on the material artfully, and you will have the triumph of preventing the defacement of your dress.

Learn how to make and trim a bonnet, or make a graceful bow of ribbon. Young ladies of small means, who are ingenious and tasteful, often present a better appearance by making things for themselves, than those who, without taste or neatness, spend large sums at the milliners’. We advise you to try and make your own dresses.

In order to do this, rip up an old dress that fits you; lay the several portions of the body on a large sheet of brown paper, with the turnings _turned in_; trace the pattern carefully with a black pencil; then draw a line round the whole, including the turnings-in, and cut it out. Pin this pattern on your material, and cut out the dress, taking care that you do not get two fronts for the same side, if there is a right and wrong surface to it. To prevent the possibility of this mistake, it is well to fold the material and cut both at once. The same may be said with regard to the side bodies. Greater skill is required to put the skirt into a band, than in making a body, in order that it may hang gracefully; but as fashions change continually, we can only advise you to get a good pattern to copy from, and _care_ and _patience_ will insure you success. If your means render it unnecessary or not expedient for you to make your own dresses, you will find it pleasant to be able to make up the cotton dress you destine for some poor neighbor, whose want of time for needle-work will render her as much obliged for the _labor_ bestowed, as for the material itself. Making clothes for poor children is _active charity_.

We know of a young lady so naturally industrious, that at the age of six years, she made entirely every part of a day shirt for her father. It is not as likely, at the present day, that your labors will be required for shirt-making for your male relatives; they generally prefer buying their linen ready made. Every _woman_ ought to know how to put one together.

Any child or young lady who can make a shirt well, can easily manufacture all female undergarments; patterns for cutting out will be all that will be required. Both cotton and linen cloth should be scalded in _soap-suds_, dried and pressed _without_ rinsing, before you work on them, in order to render them soft enough for the needle to pass through easily. But should you be unable to have this done, rub the parts you are going to sew or hem with a cake of white soap, or make a strong suds and brush the parts. Your needle will move easily, and will run no risk of breaking.

We advise young ladies who have the care of their own linen, and perhaps have their own allowance for dress, to take a few hours on one fixed day, weekly, to look over their clothes, and make any small repairs that may be wanted. They will find the truth of the old adage,--“A stitch in time saves nine,”--and will make their linen last as long again as it would otherwise do. Gloves should be neatly mended, and no rip suffered to remain a day. White and light-colored gloves can be nicely cleaned by rubbing them with a flannel dipped in milk and white hard soap. When dry they will need to be pulled till they are soft and in shape.

Cultivate, we beseech of you, habits of neatness in early youth. Dresses should never be put away dirty, or with spots that can be removed, or thrown down in a heap. Benzine or chloroform will remove nearly all kinds of spots, but it must be quickly rubbed dry, or it will leave a spot. Wax spots from candles can be removed from any material by placing over the spot some brown or blotting paper, and place over it an iron sufficiently hot to melt the grease; change the paper until all the grease is thus absorbed.

Our young readers may be assured that the little care bestowed on keeping their garments neat, clean, and whole, will give to their appearance that air of freshness which in itself is a charm, and will prove the truest economy. Moreover, the power of using the needle skilfully will give good manipulation for other and more artistic employments, and can never be aught but a blessing to the American girl.

13.--EMBROIDERY IN SPANGLES AND CANNETILLE.

Bullion, which is a large gold wire, of which officers’ epaulets are made, _frisure_, a smaller bullion, _clanquant_, which is a flat gold ribbon, are all classed under the denomination of cannetille. Leaf-shaped spangles are called laine.

Stretch the velvet, cloth, or silk which you intend to embroider in a frame, and tack over it your pattern, which must be nicely drawn on silver paper. Suppose your pattern is a wreath of grape-vine leaves and grapes; you must put bullion on for the centre stem. This is done by running a needle and thread through the tube, and fastening it with an occasional (strongly sewn) stitch or two. Take the smaller bullion, or frisure, for the outlines of the leaves and tendrils, fastening it on in the same manner as the large bullion; vein the leaves with fine gold thread.

Make your grapes of large spangles, and purple or green glass beads, thus: Pass your needle through the velvet from underneath, take a spangle on it, then take a purple bead; pass your needle again through the spangle and back through the velvet. Then begin another grape in the same way, and fasten carefully off when your silk is used up. A wreath of grapes and holly (the holly berries red beads) round the edge of a table cover would look very nice. The cover should be of dark cloth, and edged with gold cord all around.

14.--EMBROIDERY IN LAMÉ OF VELVET AND GOLD.

Fix your material in a frame. Tack over it your pattern drawn on silver paper, or sketch it lightly on the surface of the cloth or silk.

Work your stems and tendrils in frisure, your berries or little flowers in spangles.

You can purchase stamped velvet leaves, which you must fasten with strong gum to your velvet or silk, and then keep them firm by veining them with gold thread.

Petals of flowers may be cut out of colored velvet, and arranged on the cloth or velvet, if the young needlewoman has sufficient taste to form a flower.

The work may be done entirely of cachemire and gold on cloth, if a more expensive material is beyond the worker’s means.

15.--EMBROIDERY IN FEATHERS.

Stretch your material for the ground on a frame. Cover the back or under side of your feathers with thin gum, to keep the tiny plumage together, and let them dry. Take a sharp pair of scissors, and cut the feathers into the shape of the petals you require; lay them separately on your pattern, and tack them firmly on the silk or cloth with sewing silk of the same color. Work stems, tendrils, and centres with silk of the color required. Of course you must arrange your petals or leaves according to your pattern.

Any white feathers dyed are suitable for this work.

16.--CORK WORK.

Very beautiful articles can be made by ingenious boys and girls, from cork bark. Those of our readers who have only seen cork work in the shape of common bottle corks, will not be attracted by the title of this chapter. But all who have seen, either at home or abroad, the exquisite models of castles, old ruins, churches, and many other picturesque objects, made entirely from this material, will welcome a few simple directions for this work.

We will first speak of the cork bark, as it may not be generally known that cork is not indigenous, but is the soft, elastic bark of a species of oak tree, that grows abundantly in the northern part of France, Spain, and Italy. When the tree is fifteen years old the barking is commenced, and is repeated at intervals of eight years, the bark improving with every operation. The cork is stripped from the tree in July and August; it is then piled up in water under heavy stones, to flatten it, after which it is fire dried, and packed in bales for exportation. The cork cutters divide the sheets of cork in narrow strips, and after cutting them the proper length, round them with a thin, sharp-bladed knife into a cylindrical form. The cork tree and uses of its bark were known to the Greeks and Romans.

Cork bark can be obtained at any of the numerous cork factories; it is not expensive, and the refuse bark can be used in making many pretty models.

The beginner should select the simplest subjects for his first work, such as a rustic cottage, bridge, or simple ruins.

When a certain amount of proficiency has been attained, it will be easy to advance to higher themes, until the most elaborate designs may be attempted without fear of failure.

In this art, models or pictures, with some description of the proportions, are sufficient guides.

In this work no tools are required except a sharp penknife and a glue-pot.

The walls of buildings must be cut from the cork block. The proper thickness for the cork used in making walls is about one half, or even one quarter of an inch, and the smoothest cork should always be selected for this work.

When the required size has been obtained, square it smoothly to the shape called for, making the two side walls exactly alike. Next mark with a black lead pencil the shapes of the windows, doors, &c. Then cut the windows with a penknife, making the opening smaller on the inner side, but slanting outwardly, especially in the sill the slope is very considerable, and in gothic windows should never be flat or square. The waste and refuse pieces of common cork will all be of use in making the trimmings and ornamental work. For the mouldings around the windows, cut small rims of cork, like your model, and glue them on at proper distances from the outer edges. Thin sheets of mica glued on the inside of the windows, are excellent substitutes for glass; the appearance of stained glass can be given by gumming paper of the color you desire to represent, on the inside, over the mica. All ornaments can be formed of tiny shavings of cork. The gables, doors, &c., are prepared as the model may require. The most suitable base, on which to glue your building, is a board covered with green cloth or baize. The four walls can now be glued together and placed on the green cloth board. If not firm, small splints of wood, shaved so as to fit into the inner corners, will strengthen the edifice. The roof comes next, and can be made of smooth seasoned wood, about a sixteenth of an inch thick.

Cut the board large enough to extend well over the edges, so as to form eaves; glue one side firmly along the gable ends, then fit the peak of the other side. A roof with a high pitch adds much to the tasteful appearance of a rustic church. If there is to be a steeple, or spire, the tower, or base of the building should be formed of small pieces, cut so as to fit the slopes of the roof, and built as a mason joins bricks or square blocks in a wall. When the base is formed square and flat on top, the tapering spire should start from this foundation, with a round, or eight-sided piece of cork, whose four opposite sides are exactly the size of the square base on which it is to be glued; on this place another cork a trifle smaller; this in turn will be covered with another still less; so on until it tapers to a point.

Common bottle corks, of various sizes, are best to use for spires and columns.

The best way to make spires or columns, is to glue them in proper shape separately from the building; when all are joined, shave them carefully, so as to form the proper slope for the spire, and the columns can be cut with a knife to imitate fluted sides, or in any desirable way. When they are finished, glue them in the proper place on your buildings.

The outside ornaments, such as a cross or vane for the point of the spire, the caps of the columns, the buttresses, eaves, moulding around the doors, porches over the entrance, cornices, &c., may now be added. The roof may be colored with a little vandyke brown or burned umber, mixed either in turpentine or oil; a single coat will be sufficient, and if a rough appearance is desired, dust some fine sand over it before the paint is dry.

If you glue moss on to the base board, it adds to the natural appearance of the building. If you design to represent a ruin, or Gothic church, a little green moss, neatly gummed on to represent ivy and other creeping vines, is an improvement. Time adds grace to all ruins, by its moss and vines, planted by divine Providence.

Landscapes, in the picture style, are often designed with cork; the finest shavings of cork can be used to cut into shapes to represent a castle, a light-house with rocks near by, a bridge, or whatever else may be selected to form the design. Some idea of perspective drawing will be necessary in this work; the object should be arranged and fastened with gum arabic on to a piece of white card-board, and the sky slightly tinted in water-colors for a back ground. Irregular edges increase the resemblance to distant hills, and sharp edges of thicker cork represent the objects in the foreground.

There is no attempt to imitate nature in the variety of color, for the picture wears the sombre shade of cork, but the general effect is pleasing; the light background, seen through the thin shavings of cork, give a good idea of brown autumnal forests.

Crosses to train ivy on can be made of cork.

We trust our readers will be induced to try this cork work. It is often difficult to know what to make for fairs or for Christmas presents. This work in our country is rarely seen, and it would sell well, or prove a pretty present, if neatly done; but, like all things worth doing, it requires time, practice, and patience to insure perfect success.

17.--BLACK LANDSCAPE.

Pass a card, or a piece of card-board, through the smoke of a candle till it is quite black.

Then take a penknife and scratch upon it any landscape or design you please.

Moonlight scenery is very effective in this way. In case of lack of pencils, &c., this is not a bad way of sketching a scene one desires to remember.

18.--VEGETABLE FLOWERS.

Boys and girls who live in the country will find it a pleasant winter evening pastime to make a bouquet of vegetable flowers.

First gather from the woods laurel leaves and other evergreens. Then by the exercise of taste, ingenuity, and a skilful use of the penknife, really beautiful bouquets can be compiled of these flowers, with the addition of sprigs of evergreen. White turnips, yellow turnips, beets, carrots, pumpkins, and portions of cabbages, can be used for the flowers.

Take a white turnip, neatly peeled, notched exactly down in leaf shape all round. Then fasten to a stem whittled from wood. Surround it with green leaves, and behold either an exquisite white camellia or a rose! Moss rose buds can be made by cutting turnips or beets into the proper shape, and placing real moss around them. Red roses, camellias, or dahlias can be made in the same way from beets. Yellow flowers from carrots and pumpkins. White or red flowers from white and red cabbages.

Beautify your houses, however poor or humble your lot; a bare, comfortless room does not excite home love.

19.--ORNAMENTAL SEED WORK.

We have seen exhibited at agricultural fairs some really beautiful frames and boxes ornamented with common garden seeds.

If our boys and girls will begin early in the summer, and collect every variety of seed possible, such as all kinds of beans, corn, melons, &c., they will have abundant material for this kind of ornamental work in the winter.

Every seed of size sufficient for handling should be saved; even small polished black or yellow seeds, like poppy seed, can be preserved to scatter over the ground-work. Dry all the seeds carefully, and place them in boxes ready for use. This work can be applied with excellent effect in ornamenting boxes, picture frames, hanging baskets, book racks, flower stands, small tables, brackets, &c. Get the frame of wood, of any article you intend to ornament with seed work; stain the wood with walnut staining materials, or varnish with asphaltum varnish. It is not desirable to have a high polish on the surface intended to be ornamented, as the glue will not adhere to a very smooth substance. Keep your woodwork in some dry place, until you are ready to glue on the seeds.

When you have a leisure day or evening, place your frame of wood before you, and the boxes of seeds around it. When your glue is hot, spread a little over a small space with a brush, and arrange your seeds in the form of some flower or other figure.

It is difficult to give explicit rules for the work. It is best for each person to exercise his or her taste and ingenuity in arranging the designs. As the work proceeds, an endless variety of shapes and styles of designs will suggest themselves.

An accurate resemblance to nature is not easily attainable in this kind of work.

When all the ornamental work is arranged, the small spaces left uncovered should be brushed over with a thin coat of varnish, and sprinkled with any small seeds. Black seeds are very desirable, as they form a good ground-work, and afford a proper relief to the designs. When the glue has become hard, apply to the whole work an even coat of copal varnish. If this is not sufficient, apply another coat; it is needed, as some seeds absorb more than others.

20.--HOW TO IMPRESS LEAVES ON VELVET.