Chapter IV: =miscellaneous Equipment=

A DUSTLESS MOP

A cheap and efficient article for the housewife is a mop made of old stockings and the handle of an old, discarded broom. This mop may be used successfully for polished and painted floors as well as for unpolished floors. It is made by cutting the straw off of a broom which has worn out. This is cut even with the wires which hold the straw on the handle. Cover this part of the broom with an old stocking, which is tacked to the handle securely by sewing it around two or three times with a double thread. Legs of old stockings are cut twelve inches long with these strips cut leaving a band two inches wide to sew to the covering of the broom. Sew them round and round the surface in rows about an inch apart, until the mop has been made the desired thickness. Dip the mop into a solution made of one-half a cupful of melted paraffin and one cupful of coal oil. When the mop is not in use, it must be wrapped up and kept in a paper bag in order to keep it moist.

FOLDING CANNING TABLE

The table shown in this illustration is made of poplar and designed especially for the Canning Club agent. It folds up and requires little space, which makes it convenient to take around during the canning season. The top is zinc-lined to make it more durable and sanitary. In the center an opening is made to hold the bucket which catches the parings from the vegetables or fruits. On the left side is an adjustable zinc-lined trough to hold the vegetables or fruits while preparing them for use. This will save many steps in going to and from the basket to get these things. A hole is bored in the trough, to which is attached a small pipe that allows the water with which the vegetables or fruits have been washed to run off.

MATERIALS:

18½ ft. of poplar.
¼ lb. No. 5 box nails to nail trough on table.
60 three-penny box nails to nail the zinc on top of table.
16 No. 5 screws, ¾”, to fasten the legs on table.
2 pairs of 2” (butt) hinges to hinge legs on table.
6 3” gate hooks to hook on legs and trough.
6½ lbs. 28-gage zinc to cover the top of table.
1 pail to fit in hole 9” in diameter.

DIMENSIONS:

_Top_: 1 piece ⅞” thick × 24” wide × 44” long.
_Bottom_: 1 piece ⅞” thick × 10” wide × 34” long, to be used as
bottom shelf.
_Crosspieces_: 2 pieces ⅞” thick × 4” wide × 20½” long, to be
hinged on the top of the table.
2 pieces ⅞” thick × 1½” wide × 15½” long, to be used as braces
for bottom shelf.
_Legs_: 4 pieces 1½” thick × 1½” wide × 27½” long.
_Braces_: 2 pieces ¾” thick × 1½” wide × 2½” long, to support top
piece.
_Trough_: 1 piece 6” thick × 5½” wide × 24” long.
1 piece 6” thick × 6” wide × 24” long.
_Hole_: ⅞” thick × 9” wide × 9” long, for opening in center of
table.

DIRECTIONS:

Measure 4 inches from each end of the top and fasten the two
crosspieces (¾” thick × 1½” wide × 20½” long) putting one on
each end to brace the top of the table. These crosspieces must
also be put at equal distances from the sides of the top. Screw
the legs on these two pieces, using the crosspieces (⅞” × 1½” ×
15½”) as braces for the legs. Use two gate hooks on each end of
table to support the legs when the table is unfolded. The bottom
shelf (⅞” × 10” × 34”) is placed crosswise on the braces and 9”
from the bottom of legs. This shelf is not to be stationary, for
it has to be removed when the table is unfolded. Bore a hole 9”
in diameter in the center of table to hold the bucket. Fasten
the trough, after it has been completed, on the left side of
the table with two gate hooks. Cover the top of the table with
the zinc, using the 60 3-penny nails to tack it on the top.
Sandpaper, stain, and polish the table.

FLY TRAP

This trap as described below is not only good for the house and the back porch, where so many flies are attracted by the odor of the foods, but also excellent for use out of doors. It is inexpensive and can be easily made at home. Much of the success of the trap depends upon the bait used. There are many kinds of baits recommended, such as a plate of vinegar with sugar scattered around it, banana skins, syrups, and meat. The bait is placed beneath the cone in a saucer, which rests on the bottom board of the trap. The flies then enter the cone and are destroyed by smoking before being removed through the hole in the top. If a poisonous bait is used the smoking is not necessary.

MATERIALS:

3’ of poplar.
12 5-penny box nails.
1 small box of 3 oz. tacks.
1 ¾” No. 5 screw.
2½ yds. of wire netting, 24” wide.

DIMENSIONS:

_Top_: 1 piece 1” thick × 16” wide × 16” long.
_Bottom_: 1 piece 1” thick × 16” wide × 16” long.
_Cover_: 1 piece ¼” thick × 1½” wide × 2½” long.
_Braces_: 3 pieces ⅞” thick × 1” wide × 24¾” long.
_Cone_: 8” high and 12” in diameter at bottom.

DIRECTIONS:

Take one piece (1” × 16” × 16”) and find the center, using a
radius of 8” to make a circle for the bottom of the trap. Then
use a radius of 6” to make an opening in the bottom on which
the cone fits. An opening of 1” × 2” is made at some convenient
point in the bottom of trap through which the dead flies are
removed. Take a piece of wood (¼” × 1½” × 2½”) and make a cover
to fit over this opening. Fasten it on the bottom with a screw
so that it may be easily turned. Make the cone of a piece of
wire netting 10” wide. It must fit the inside circle in the
bottom as shown in the illustration. Tack this to the bottom
with 3-oz. tacks. The top of the trap is made just like the
bottom using the same radius. Cut out 3 places in the top and
bottom for the braces (⅞” × 1” × 24¾”) to fit in. These must
extend ¾” below the bottom and nailed in place with 5-penny box
nails. Cover the opening in the top with a piece of wire netting
13” in diameter. The whole frame is then covered with the 24”
wire netting.

GARBAGE BARREL

The problem of the quickest disposal of the kitchen refuse for the housekeeper is one of great consideration. The garbage barrel, as shown in the illustration, is a solution for this problem, in that it is put between rails with a wheel. The garbage may thus be rolled away as many times a day as necessary, with a minimum amount of effort. A covered receptacle promotes sanitation around the back premises. The size of this convenience varies with the material available for making the device and with the size of the family.

MATERIALS:

10’ of oak.
8 3½” × ⅜” carriage bolts.
1 barrel
wheel 14” in diameter.

DIMENSIONS:

_Rails_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 6” wide × 28” long, to be used to
hold the barrel in place.
_Handles_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 2¾” wide × 5” long.

DIRECTIONS:

Measure and saw the handles the right dimensions. Taper them at
one end as shown in the illustration. Fasten the rails to the
handles with the eight (3½” × ⅜”) bolts, making the front rail
shorter than the back one. The opening between the rails must
fit the barrel at the bottom hoop. Attach the wheel, 14” in
diameter, to the smaller end of the two handles.

THE SCRUBBING CHARIOT

A clever little device which consists of a comfortable padded frame which permits the woman to do her scrubbing with more ease and comfort and saves her from taking many unnecessary steps. To the left it has a stand for the soap, and on the right may be placed a wire hoop to hold the bucket of water while scrubbing. This will be found more useful to the woman who has not access to the more modern conveniences used for scrubbing.

MATERIALS:

2½’ poplar.
4 flat trunk rollers for bottom of chariot.
¼ lb. 8-penny nails to be used in making frame.
1 box brass-headed tacks to be used in putting padding
in bottom of chariot.
1 soap holder.
1 yard burlap to make the padding.

DIMENSIONS:

_Bottom_: 1 piece ¾” thick × 10” wide × 20” long.
_Front_: 1 piece ½” thick × 4” wide × 20” long.
_Sides_: 2 pieces ½” thick × 4” wide × 10” long.

DIRECTIONS:

Nail the sides to the bottom board. Fit the front piece to this
and nail to the bottom and sides. Four flat rollers are screwed
on the bottom, and the frame sandpapered, stained, and polished.
A cushion made of the burlap and stuffed with excelsior, a piece
of an old comfort, or cotton, is tacked in the bottom with the
brass-headed tacks. Tack the soap stand on the left side of the
chariot and an iron hoop to the right, if so desired. A soap box
or cheese box may be used to advantage in making this device if
one side is knocked out and the three remaining sides cut down
to the height of 5”.

SEWING SCREEN

An effort to minimize the “ups and downs” of the busy woman when she finds a few precious moments to do fancy work or to read. It is an accessible device, consisting of a light frame, covered with burlap, with conveniently arranged pockets and other useful features. It is of a convenient height to be lifted from place to place with a little effort; or it may be put on casters and rolled around. Its position near the tired woman’s chair will cause her to feel an eternal warmth toward the designer, for she will find somewhere on its hooks, shelf, or in its pockets the very thing needed when with a sigh of relief she has taken her seat.

MATERIALS:

10’ of poplar.
22 No. 16 brads, ¾”, for nailing joints.
2½ pairs of 1½” (butt) hinges to be used in joining the
panels, fastening the drop shelf to crosspiece, and
adjusting the bracket.
20 No. 5 flat-headed screws, ⅝”, used for hinges.
2 metal handles to put on top of each side of screen.
4 No. 5 screws, ½”, to put handles on.
2 yds. burlap to cover the screen.
1 box brass-headed tacks to put burlap on screen.
12 brass cup hooks to be used on crosspiece.
1 yd. of creton to make pockets.
Sandpaper and stain.

DIMENSIONS:

_Stiles_: 4 pieces 1½” × 1½” × 30”, to be used as upright pieces
to screen.
_Crosspieces_: 4 pieces 1½” × 1½” × 12½”, to be used at the top
and bottom of frame.
2 pieces 1½” × 1½” × 12½”, to be used for pegs to hold spools.
1 piece 1½” × 1½” × 12½”, to hinge the shelf.

DIRECTIONS:

On the two upright pieces (1½” × 1½” × 30”) make 4¾” mortises to
fit the tenons made on the crosspieces, making the first mortise
1” from the bottom of the frame and the second mortise 16½” from
the first. The third and fourth mortises in the upright piece
are made 2¼” apart and the third the same distance from the top.
The other upright piece to the panel is treated in the same way.
On two of these crosspieces there are nailed, at equal distances
apart, little pegs to hold the spools. Cup hooks are fastened
on the under side of one crosspiece to hold the bags. Make the
other panel of the screen in the same way, only making mortises
and tenons for three crosspieces instead of four. The first
crosspiece on this panel is put 1” from the bottom; the second,
16½” from the first; and the third piece 4½” from the second.
Hinge the drop door on the top edge of the last crosspiece and
hinge the bracket to support the drop door in the center of
crosspiece. Put the handles on each screen with the 4½” No. 5
screws. Hinge the two panels together and cover the outside of
screen with burlap, using the brass-headed tacks for this purpose.
The frame must be sandpapered, stained, and polished before the
burlap and pockets are put on. The creton pockets are put on the
inside of screen about halfway down the panel.

A HOMEMADE SHOWER BATH

A cheap but convenient arrangement to be used in any home for giving shower baths where the other fixtures are not to be had. This may be used to a greater advantage in country homes where there are many little children. They would find joy in the use of same.

MATERIALS:

1 4-gallon tin bucket
1 medium size zinc tub.
1 nozzle with 6’ rubber tubing.
2 pulleys with 1 staple.
1 piece of piping 2” long.
1 clothes pin.
12’ rope.
1 pint white paint.
1 pint white enamel.

DIRECTIONS:

Cut a hole in the 4-gallon water bucket in the center of the
bottom. On this opening solder the piece of piping, 2” long.
Attach to the end of this piece of pipe the 6’ of rubber tubing
with the nozzle on the other end. The sprinkler from a watering
can may be substituted for the nozzle if not convenient to get
one. Tie a piece of rope to the handle of the bucket and run it
through a pulley which is fastened to the ceiling with a staple.
Have another staple put in the wall below the window sash and
run the rope through it also. This allows the bucket to be
raised or lowered to suit the convenience of the person taking
the shower. A hook is placed below the staple in the window
joist, which holds the bucket in place when not in use. The flow
of the water is adjusted by the use of a clothes pin operated
on the rubber tubing. Use a medium size zinc tub to stand in
while taking the shower. It makes the whole shower bath more
attractive to paint the bucket and tub white and then enamel
them.

WATERWORKS OUTFIT FOR THE HOME

The following illustration shows a simple but cheap arrangement for a practical water system to be used in the farm home.

A few minutes pumping each morning by the man of the family will provide a supply of water for the day’s use, or, where there is no force pump, the water may be brought in pails until the barrel is filled every day. While not the most satisfactory plan for putting water into the home, it is far better than having to carry the water from a pump or often from a spring which is a long distance from the house. It is a labor- and time-saving device for the farm woman and enables her to do more efficient work in every way.

MATERIALS:

1 force pump.
100’ of 1¼” galvanized iron pipe for suction.
Foot valve for suction pipe.
1 piece of rubber hose.
1 tight coupling to bear weight of hose at barrel opening.
1” thick boards to build platform.
1 60-gallon water tight barrel.
½” water pipe to connect barrel with faucet.
1½” faucet.
1 sink (18” × 30”).
50’ of 1¼” lead pipe to be used for S-trap.
50 ft. 4” drain pipe.

DIRECTIONS:

_Pump._: Bore a hole about 2” below the lid of the barrel. This
must be large enough to permit the piece of coupling to fit in
it tightly. It is not necessary to use the coupling but it will
give a better support to the hose. Fasten one end of the hose to
the coupling and the other end to the pump. On the opposite side
bore a hole with a ¾” auger and attach the ½” piece of water
pipe to it.

_Shelf_: Raise the barrel to the platform, which is made of 1”
boards, and well braced underneath. This platform is fastened
to the house just outside of the kitchen. It must be put higher
than the kitchen sink in order to obtain pressure enough to give
a steady flow of water. A tight-fitting lid is placed on top of
the barrel to keep out the trash and the insects. Fasten the
faucet to the ½” pipe on the barrel which extends through an
opening made in the wall.

_Sink_: Place the sink, supported by brackets, on the inside of
the kitchen wall and at a convenient height from the floor for
the woman to comfortably use.

_Drainage_: Fit the S-trap to the 4” drain pipe to carry off the
water from the sink.