Chapter IV

General Taste for Pleasure.--Entertainments at Twickenham
and Esher.--Miss Chudleigh’s Ball.--Masquerade at Richmond
House.--The Gallery at Strawberry Hill.--Balls.--The Duchess
of Queensberry.--Petition of the Periwig-makers.--Ladies’
Head-gear.--Almack’s.--The Castle of Otranto.--Plans for a
Bower.--A Late Dinner.--Walpole’s Idle Life.--Social usages.

For some years after the arrival of the Queen, the enlivening influence of a new reign is clearly traceable in Walpole’s letters. The Court, indeed, did not willingly contribute much to the national gaiety. Its plainness and economy soon incurred reproach;[33] while there were intervals in which the first uncertain signs of mental derangement caused the young King to be withdrawn from public observation. Still there were christenings and birthdays, with now and then a wedding, to be celebrated in the royal family; and the State festivities, unavoidable on these occasions, were eagerly emulated by the nobility. The Peace of Paris, too, was not only welcomed with popular rejoicings, but produced a general stir in society by the renewed intercourse which it brought about between France and England. “The two nations,” writes Horace, “are crossing over and figuring-in.” A trifle restrained by the example of the Court and the presence of foreign visitors, the appetite for pleasure became universal among the English higher classes. Lord Bute and the Princess of Wales, Wilkes and the _North Briton_, the debates on privilege and on general warrants, divided the attention of Walpole’s world with the last entertainment at the Duke of Richmond’s or Northumberland House, with Miss Chudleigh’s last ball, with the riots at Drury Lane Theatre, with the _fêtes_ in honour of the marriage of the Princess Augusta and the Prince of Brunswick, or, somewhat later, of the ill-starred union between the Princess Caroline and the King of Denmark. We hear no more of frolics at Vauxhall, but we find galas, masquerades, ridottos, festinos, displays of fireworks following each other in rapid succession through our author’s pages; sometimes several such scenes are described in the same letter. There is, of course, much sameness in these descriptions, but some passages serve to illustrate the tastes of the age. We will make three or four brief extracts. Our first choice is an account of two entertainments given to French guests of rank, one by Horace himself at Strawberry Hill, the other by Miss Pelham at the country seat celebrated by Pope and Thomson. The whole story is contained in a letter to George Montagu, written in May, 1763:

“‘On vient de nous donner une très jolie fête au château de
Straberri: tout étoit tapissé de narcisses, de tulipes, et
de lilacs; des cors de chasse, des clarionettes; des petits
vers galants faits par des fées, et qui se trouvoient sous la
presse; des fruits à la glace, du thé, du caffé, des biscuits,
et force hot-rolls.’[34]--This is not the beginning of a letter
to you, but of one that I might suppose sets out to-night for
Paris, or rather, which I do not suppose will set out thither;
for though the narrative is circumstantially true, I don’t
believe the actors were pleased enough with the scene, to give
so favourable an account of it.

“The French do not come hither to see. _A l’Anglaise_ happened
to be the word in fashion; and half a dozen of the most
fashionable people have been the dupes of it. I take for
granted that their next mode will be _à l’Iroquaise_, that they
may be under no obligation of realising their pretensions.
Madame de Boufflers I think will die a martyr to a taste,
which she fancied she had, and finds she has not. Never having
stirred ten miles from Paris, and having only rolled in an easy
coach from one hotel to another on a gliding pavement, she is
already worn out with being hurried from morning till night
from one sight to another. She rises every morning so fatigued
with the toils of the preceding day, that she has not strength,
if she had inclination, to observe the least, or the finest
thing she sees! She came hither to-day to a great breakfast I
made for her, with her eyes a foot deep in her head, her hands
dangling, and scarce able to support her knitting-bag. She had
been yesterday to see a ship launched, and went from Greenwich
by water to Ranelagh. Madame Dusson, who is Dutch-built, and
whose muscles are pleasure-proof, came with her; there were
besides, Lady Mary Coke, Lord and Lady Holdernesse, the Duke
and Duchess of Grafton, Lord Hertford, Lord Villiers, Offley,
Messieurs de Fleury, D’Eon, et Duclos. The latter is author of
the Life of Louis Onze; dresses like a dissenting minister,
which I suppose is the livery of a _bel esprit_, and is much
more impetuous than agreeable. We breakfasted in the great
parlour, and I had filled the hall and large cloister by turns
with French horns and clarionettes. As the French ladies had
never seen a printing-house, I carried them into mine; they
found something ready set, and desiring to see what it was, it
proved as follows:

“The Press speaks--

“FOR MADAME DE BOUFFLERS.

“‘The graceful fair, who loves to know,
Nor dreads the north’s inclement snow;
Who bids her polish’d accent wear
The British diction’s harsher air;
Shall read her praise in every clime
Where types can speak or poets rhyme.

“FOR MADAME DUSSON.

“Feign not an ignorance of what I speak;
You could not miss my meaning were it Greek:
’Tis the same language Belgium utter’d first,
The same which from admiring Gallia burst.
True sentiment a like expression pours;
Each country says the same to eyes like yours.

“You will comprehend that the first speaks English, and that
the second does not; that the second is handsome, and the first
not; and that the second was born in Holland. This little
gentilesse pleased, and atoned for the popery[35] of my house,
which was not serious enough for Madame de Boufflers, who is
Montmorency, _et du sang du premier Chrétien_; and too serious
for Madame Dusson, who is a Dutch Calvinist.… The Gallery is
not advanced enough to give them any idea at all, as they are
not apt to go out of their way for one; but the Cabinet, and
the glory of yellow glass at top, which had a charming sun for
a foil, did surmount their indifference, especially as they
were animated by the Duchess of Grafton, who had never happened
to be here before, and who perfectly entered into the air of
enchantment and fairyism, which is the tone of the place, and
was peculiarly so to-day.

“Thursday.

“I am ashamed of myself to have nothing but a journal of
pleasures to send you; I never passed a more agreeable day
than yesterday. Miss Pelham gave the French an entertainment
at Esher; but they have been so feasted and amused, that none
of them were well enough, or reposed enough, to come, but
Nivernois and Madame Dusson. The rest of the company were,
the Graftons, Lady Rockingham, Lord and Lady Pembroke.… The
day was delightful, the scene transporting; the trees, lawns,
concaves, all in the perfection in which the ghost of Kent[36]
would joy to see them. At twelve we made the tour of the farm
in eight chaises and calashes, horsemen, and footmen, setting
out like a picture of Wouverman’s. My lot fell in the lap of
Mrs. Anne Pitt,[37] which I could have excused, as she was
not at all in the style of the day, romantic, but political.
We had a magnificent dinner, cloaked in the modesty of
earthenware; French horns and hautboys on the lawn. We walked
to the Belvidere on the summit of the hill, where a theatrical
storm only served to heighten the beauty of the landscape, a
rainbow on a dark cloud falling precisely behind the tower of
a neighbouring church, between another tower and the building
at Claremont. Monsieur de Nivernois, who had been absorbed all
day, and lagging behind, translating my verses, was delivered
of his version, and of some more lines which he wrote on Miss
Pelham in the Belvidere, while we drank tea and coffee. From
thence we passed into the wood, and the ladies formed a circle
on chairs before the mouth of the cave, which was overhung
to a vast height with woodbines, lilacs, and laburnums, and
dignified by the tall shapely cypresses. On the descent of the
hill were placed the French horns; the abigails, servants,
and neighbours wandering below by the river; in short, it was
Parnassus, as Watteau would have painted it. Here we had a
rural syllabub, and part of the company returned to town; but
were replaced by Giardini and Onofrio, who with Nivernois on
the violin, and Lord Pembroke on the base, accompanied Miss
Pelham, Lady Rockingham, and the Duchess of Grafton, who sang.
This little concert lasted till past ten; then there were
minuets, and as we had several couples left, it concluded with
a country dance. I blush again, for I danced, but was kept
in countenance by Nivernois, who has one wrinkle more than I
have. A quarter after twelve they sat down to supper, and I
came home by a charming moonlight. I am going to dine in town,
and to a great ball with fireworks at Miss Chudleigh’s, but
I return hither on Sunday, to bid adieu to this abominable
Arcadian life; for really when one is not young, one ought to
do nothing but _s’ennuyer_; I will try, but I always go about
it awkwardly.”

Two days later this indefatigable chronicler of trifles describes to Conway the _fête_ given by Miss Chudleigh, afterwards known as the Duchess of Kingston, but at that time a maid of honour to the Princess-Dowager of Wales:

“Oh, that you had been at her ball t’other night! History
could never describe it and keep its countenance. The Queen’s
real birthday, you know, is not kept: this Maid of Honour kept
it--nay, while the Court is in mourning, expected people to
be out of mourning; the Queen’s family really was so, Lady
Northumberland having desired leave for them. A scaffold was
erected in Hyde-park for fireworks. To show the illuminations
without to more advantage, the company were received in an
apartment totally dark, where they remained for two hours.…
The fireworks were fine, and succeeded well. On each side
of the court were two large scaffolds for the Virgin’s[38]
tradespeople. When the fireworks ceased, a large scene was
lighted in the court, representing their Majesties; on each
side of which were six obelisks, painted with emblems, and
illuminated; mottoes beneath in Latin and English.… The lady
of the house made many apologies for the poorness of the
performance, which she said was only oil-paper, painted by
one of her servants; but it really was fine and pretty. Behind
the house was a cenotaph for the Princess Elizabeth, a kind
of illuminated cradle; the motto, _All the honours the dead
can receive_. This burying-ground was a strange codicil to a
festival; and, what was more strange, about one in the morning,
this sarcophagus burst out into crackers and guns. The Margrave
of Anspach began the ball with the Virgin. The supper was most
sumptuous.”

A fortnight afterwards he writes:

“June 7th.

“Last night we had a magnificent entertainment at Richmond
House, a masquerade and fireworks. A masquerade was a new sight
to the young people, who had dressed themselves charmingly,
without having the fear of an earthquake before their eyes,
though Prince William and Prince Henry[39] were not suffered
to be there. The Duchesses of Richmond and Grafton, the first
as a Persian Sultana, the latter as Cleopatra,--and such a
Cleopatra! were glorious figures, in very different styles.
Mrs. Fitzroy in a Turkish dress, Lady George Lenox and Lady
Bolingbroke as Grecian girls, Lady Mary Coke as Imoinda, and
Lady Pembroke as a pilgrim, were the principal beauties of the
night. The whole garden was illuminated, and the apartments.
An encampment of barges decked with streamers in the middle of
the Thames, kept the people from danger, and formed a stage
for the fireworks, which were placed, too, along the rails of
the garden. The ground rooms lighted, with suppers spread,
the houses, covered and filled with people, the bridge, the
garden full of masks, Whitehall crowded with spectators to see
the dresses pass, and the multitude of heads on the river who
came to light by the splendour of the fire-wheels, composed
the gayest and richest scene imaginable, not to mention the
diamonds and sumptuousness of the habits. The Dukes of York and
Cumberland, and the Margrave of Anspach, were there, and about
six hundred masks.”

In the intervals of these engagements, he is busy at Strawberry Hill. Thus, in arranging a short visit to George Montagu, he says (July 1):

“The journey you must accept as a great sacrifice either to you
or to my promise, for I quit the Gallery almost in the critical
minute of consummation. Gilders, carvers, upholsterers, and
picture-cleaners are labouring at their several forges, and
I do not love to trust a hammer or a brush without my own
supervisal. This will make my stay very short, but it is a
greater compliment than a month would be at another season; and
yet I am not profuse of months. Well, but I begin to be ashamed
of my magnificence; Strawberry is growing sumptuous in its
latter day; it will scarce be any longer like the fruit of its
name, or the modesty of its ancient demeanour, both which seem
to have been in Spenser’s prophetic eye, when he sung of

“‘---- the blushing strawberries
Which lurk, close-shrouded from high-looking eyes,
Showing that sweetness low and hidden lies.’

“In truth, my collection was too great already to be lodged
humbly; it has extended my walls, and pomp followed. It
was a neat, small house; it now will be a comfortable one,
and, except one fine apartment, does not deviate from its
simplicity. Adieu! I know nothing about the world, and am only
Strawberry’s and yours sincerely.”

Our next extract shows that, however fond of frequenting large parties, the writer had little inclination to give them, at any rate, in his toy-house:

“We had, last Monday, the prettiest ball that ever was seen,
at Mrs. Anne Pitt’s, in the compass of a silver penny. There
were one hundred and four persons, of which number fifty-five
supped. The supper-room was disposed with tables and benches
back to back, in the manner of an ale-house. The idea
sounds ill; but the fairies had so improved upon it, had so
_be-garlanded_, so _sweetmeated_, and so _desserted_ it, that
it looked like a vision. I told her she could only have fed
and stowed so much company by a miracle, and that, when we
were gone, she would take up twelve baskets-full of people.
The Duchess of Bedford asked me before Madame de Guerchy,
if I would not give them a ball at Strawberry? Not for the
universe! What! turn a ball, and dust, and dirt, and a million
of candles, into my charming new gallery! I said, I could
not flatter myself that people would give themselves the
trouble of going eleven miles for a _ball_--(though I believe
they would go fifty).--‘Well, then,’ says she, ‘it shall be a
_dinner_.’--‘With all my heart, I have no objection; but no
ball shall set its foot within my doors.’”--_Walpole to Lord
Hertford, Feb. 24, 1764._

The promised dinner was duly given. “Strawberry,” we read soon afterwards, “has been more sumptuous to-day than ordinary, and banquetted their representative Majesties of France and Spain.… They really seemed quite pleased with the place and the day; but I must tell you, the treasury of the abbey will feel it, for, without magnificence, all was handsomely done.” Mrs. Anne Pitt, the giver of the ball, was present at the banquet. In describing to a foreigner this lady’s strong likeness to her famous brother, Walpole once said happily, “Qu’ils se ressemblaient comme deux gouttes de _feu_.” Another eccentric entertainer of the day was the Duchess of Queensberry, “very clever, very whimsical, and just not mad.” Of her we are told:

“Last Thursday, the Duchess of Queensberry gave a ball, opened
it herself with a minuet, and danced two country dances: as she
had enjoined everybody to be with her by six, to sup at twelve,
and go away directly.… The only extraordinary thing the Duchess
did, was to do nothing extraordinary, for I do not call it very
mad that some pique happening between her and the Duchess of
Bedford, the latter had this distich sent to her,

“‘Come with a whistle, and come with a call,
Come with a good will, or come not at all.’

“I do not know whether what I am going to tell you did not
border a little upon Moorfields.[40] The gallery where they
danced was very cold. Lord Lorn, George Selwyn, and I, retired
into a little room, and sat comfortably by the fire. The
Duchess looked in, said nothing, and sent a smith to take
the hinges of the door off. We understood the hint, and left
the room, and so did the smith the door. This was pretty
legible.”--_Walpole to Lord Hertford, March 11, 1764._

A little later on we have more gossip about the humours of the day and of Lady Queensberry. Writing to the same correspondent, under date of February 12, 1765, Horace says:

“If it was not too long to transcribe, I would send you an
entertaining petition[41] of the periwig-makers to the King,
in which they complain that men will wear their own hair.
Should one almost wonder if carpenters were to remonstrate,
that since the peace their trade decays, and that there is no
demand for wooden legs? Apropos, my Lady Hertford’s friend,
Lady Harriot Vernon, has quarrelled with me for smiling at the
enormous head-gear of her daughter, Lady Grosvenor. She came
one night to Northumberland-house with such display of friz,
that it literally spread beyond her shoulders. I happened to
say it looked as if her parents had stinted her in hair before
marriage, and that she was determined to indulge her fancy now.
This, among ten thousand things said by all the world, was
reported to Lady Harriot, and has occasioned my disgrace. As
she never found fault with anybody herself, I excuse her! You
will be less surprised to hear that the Duchess of Queensberry
has not yet done dressing herself marvellously: she was at
Court on Sunday in a gown and petticoat of red flannel. The
same day the Guerchys made a dinner for her, and invited Lord
and Lady Hyde, the Forbes’s, and her other particular friends:
in the morning she sent word she was to go out of town, but as
soon as dinner was over, arrived at Madame de Guerchy’s, and
said she had been at Court.”

On February 14th, he adds in the same letter:

“The new Assembly Room at Almack’s was opened the night before
last, and they say is very magnificent, but it was empty;
half the town is ill with colds, and many were afraid to go,
as the house is scarcely built yet. Almack advertised that
it was built with hot bricks and boiling water--think what a
rage there must be for public places, if this notice, instead
of terrifying, could draw anybody thither. They tell me the
ceilings were dropping with wet--but can you believe me, when
I assure you the Duke of Cumberland was there?--Nay, had had
a levee in the morning, and went to the Opera before the
assembly! There is a vast flight of steps, and he was forced
to rest two or three times. If he dies of it,--and how should
he not?--it will sound very silly when Hercules or Theseus ask
him what he died of, to reply, ‘I caught my death on a damp
staircase at a new club-room.’”

The reader will be inclined to wonder how, with so many distractions, Walpole found time for all this letter-writing, and still more how he managed to come before the public as an author. His, however, was the pen of an extremely ready writer, and, when not otherwise engaged, he plied it with unwearied diligence. This appears in the following letter to Cole, the Cambridge antiquary, in which Horace gives an account of the origin and composition of his well-known romance. The letter shows also the writer’s love of collecting and designing curiosities:

“Strawberry Hill, March 9, 1765.

“I had time to write but a short note with the ‘Castle of
Otranto,’ as your messenger called on me at four o’clock, as I
was going to dine abroad. Your partiality to me and Strawberry
have, I hope, inclined you to excuse the wildness of the story.
You will even have found some traits to put you in mind of
this place. When you read of the picture quitting its panel,
did not you recollect the portrait of Lord Falkland, all in
white, in my Gallery? Shall I even confess to you, what was the
origin of this romance! I waked one morning, in the beginning
of last June, from a dream, of which, all I could recover
was, that I had thought myself in an ancient castle (a very
natural dream for a head filled like mine with Gothic story),
and that on the uppermost bannister of a great staircase I
saw a gigantic hand in armour. In the evening I sat down, and
began to write, without knowing in the least what I intended
to say or relate. The work grew on my hands, and I grew fond
of it--add, that I was very glad to think of anything, rather
than politics. In short, I was so engrossed with my tale, which
I completed in less than two months, that one evening, I wrote
from the time I had drunk my tea, about six o’clock, till half
an hour after one in the morning, when my hand and fingers
were so weary, that I could not hold the pen to finish the
sentence, but left Matilda and Isabella talking, in the middle
of a paragraph. You will laugh at my earnestness; but if I
have amused you, by retracing with any fidelity the manners of
ancient days, I am content, and give you leave to think me as
idle as you please.…

“When you go into Cheshire, and upon your ramble, may I trouble
you with a commission? but about which you must promise me not
to go a step out of your way. Mr. Bateman has got a cloister
at Old Windsor, furnished with ancient wooden chairs, most of
them triangular, but all of various patterns, and carved and
turned in the most uncouth and whimsical forms. He picked them
up one by one, for two, three, five, or six shillings a-piece
from different farm-houses in Herefordshire. I have long
envied and coveted them. There may be such in poor cottages,
in so neighbouring a county as Cheshire. I should not grudge
any expense for purchase or carriage; and should be glad even
of a couple such for my cloister here. When you are copying
inscriptions in a churchyard in any village, think of me, and
step into the first cottage you see--but don’t take further
trouble than that.…

“My bower is determined, but not at all what it is to be.
Though I write romances, I cannot tell how to build all that
belongs to them. Madame Danois, in the Fairy Tales, used to
_tapestry_ them with _jonquils_; but as that furniture will not
last above a fortnight in the year, I shall prefer something
more huckaback. I have decided that the outside shall be of
_treillage_, which, however, I shall not commence, till I have
again seen some of old Louis’s old-fashioned _Galanteries_ at
Versailles. Rosamond’s bower, you, and I, and Tom Hearne know,
was a labyrinth: but as my territory will admit of a very short
clew, I lay aside all thoughts of a mazy habitation: though
a bower is very different from an arbour, and must have more
chambers than one. In short, I both know, and don’t know, what
it should be. I am almost afraid I must go and read Spenser,
and wade through his allegories, and drawling stanzas, to get
at a picture. But, good night! you see how one gossips, when
one is alone, and at quiet on one’s own dunghill!--Well! it may
be trifling; yet it is such trifling as Ambition never is happy
enough to know! Ambition orders palaces, but it is Content that
chats for a page or two over a bower.”

A large part of Walpole’s correspondence was despatched at night after his return from the theatre or a reception. His habits were late. He was a late riser, and he often played cards till two or three o’clock in the morning. Whist he disliked, but gave himself to faro, while that game was in vogue, and afterwards to loo, with all the fervour of a devotee. But when not thus occupied, the hours observed by the fashionable world allowed him to retire early to his desk. How different those hours were then from what they now are, may be gathered from Walpole’s amusing sketch of a retarded dinner, at which he was a sufferer, in 1765:

“Now for my disaster; you will laugh at it, though it was woful
to me. I was to dine at Northumberland-house, and went a little
after hour: there I found the Countess, Lady Betty Mackenzie,
Lady Strafford; my Lady Finlater, who was never out of Scotland
before; a tall lad of fifteen, her son; Lord Drogheda, and Mr.
Worseley. At five, arrived Mr. Mitchell, who said the Lords
had begun to read the Poor-bill, which would take at least two
hours, and perhaps would debate it afterwards. We concluded
dinner would be called for, it not being very precedented for
ladies to wait for gentlemen:--no such thing. Six o’clock
came,--seven o’clock came,--our coaches came,--well! we
sent them away, and excuses were we were engaged. Still the
Countess’s heart did not relent, nor uttered a syllable of
apology. We wore out the wind and the weather, the Opera and
the Play, Mrs. Cornelys’s and Almack’s, and every topic that
would do in a formal circle. We hinted, represented--in vain.
The clock struck eight: my Lady, at last, said, she would
go and order dinner; but it was a good half-hour before it
appeared. We then sat down to a table for fourteen covers: but
instead of substantials, there was nothing but a profusion
of plates striped red, green, and yellow, gilt plate, blacks
and uniforms! My Lady Finlater, who had never seen these
embroidered dinners, nor dined after three, was famished. The
first course stayed as long as possible, in hopes of the Lords:
so did the second. The dessert at last arrived, and the middle
dish was actually set on when Lord Finlater and Mr. Mackay
arrived!--would you believe it?--the dessert was remanded, and
the whole first course brought back again!--Stay, I have not
done:--just as this second first course had done its duty, Lord
Northumberland, Lord Strafford, and Mackenzie came in, and
the whole began a third time! Then the second course and the
dessert! I thought we should have dropped from our chairs with
fatigue and fumes! When the clock struck eleven, we were asked
to return to the drawing-room, and drink tea and coffee, but I
said I was engaged to supper, and came home to bed.”

A few weeks later he laments his idle life in a letter to Lady Hervey:

“It is scandalous, at my age, to have been carried backwards
and forwards to balls and suppers and parties by very young
people, as I was all last week. My resolutions of growing
old and staid are admirable: I wake with a sober plan, and
intend to pass the day with my friends--then comes the Duke
of Richmond, and hurries me down to Whitehall to dinner--then
the Duchess of Grafton sends for me to loo in Upper Grosvenor
Street--before I can get thither, I am begged to step to
Kensington, to give Mrs. Anne Pitt my opinion about a
bow-window--after the loo, I am to march back to Whitehall
to supper--and after that, am to walk with Miss Pelham on
the terrace till two in the morning, because it is moonlight
and her chair is not come. All this does not help my morning
laziness; and, by the time I have breakfasted, fed my birds and
my squirrels, and dressed, there is an auction ready. In short,
Madam, this was my life last week, and is I think every week,
with the addition of forty episodes.”

Of course, this confession was not intended to be read quite seriously. It is to be taken with two grains of allowance, one for humour, the other for affectation. It was the writer’s pleasure to overact the part of an idle fine gentleman. But we may fairly conclude from the last two extracts that five o’clock was the dinner-hour of extreme fashion at this time. It would seem that the customary hour was three even with people of rank, and that in the greatest houses it was usual to serve supper. When Horace could escape from the loo-table in Upper Grosvenor Street, had no engagement to supper, and was not forced to pace Whitehall Terrace with a belated spinster till two in the morning, he was able to be at home and in bed--or at work with his books or his pen--by eleven o’clock.