Chapter II: Preface: v

CHAPTER I

DEVELOPMENT OF THE KNITTED FABRIC 1-8

Peculiarities of Knitted Structure-Knitting Trade
Definitions-Hand Knitting and Crochet

CHAPTER II

KNITTING AND WEAVING COMPARED 9-15

Hand Knitting-The Knitting Process-The Cut-up Trade-The
Full-fashioned Trade-The Seamless Branch

CHAPTER III

LATCH NEEDLE KNITTING 16-26

Loop Formation with the Latch Needle-The Flat Knitter-Working
of Cam Boxes to Give the Various Stitches-Patterns Produced

CHAPTER IV

TYPES OF KNITTING YARNS 27-36

Lamb's Wool, Shetland, Natural, and Fingering Knitting
Yarns-Worsted Spun Underwear Yarns

CHAPTER V

SYSTEMS OF NUMBERING HOSIERY YARNS 37-45

Yarn Testing for Counts-Conversion from one Count into
Another-Formulae for Calculating the Weight of Knitted
Fabric, allowing for varying Take-up of Yarn-Calculations for
Width, Counts, and Courses per inch

CHAPTER VI

CALCULATIONS FOR FOLDED KNITTING YARNS 46-56

Explanation of Formulae-Estimations for Plated Goods and Weight
Percentages for Mixed Garments

CHAPTER VII

BEARDED NEEDLE KNITTING 57-66

Stages of Loop Formation with the Bearded Needle-Hand-frame
Knitting Process, and the System of Knitting on Cotton's
Patent Machine

CHAPTER VIII

SETTING OF KNITTED FABRICS 67-75

Texture Variation on individual Frames-Variation of Yarn and
Effect of Yarn Quality-Variation in the Length of
Loop-Comparison of Courses and Wales

CHAPTER IX

VARIOUS KNITTING YARNS 76-89

Cotton, Mercerised, and Various Silk Yarns-Silk-and-Wool and
Cotton-and-Wool Mixture Yarns-Cashmere, Angora Rabbit, Camel
Hair, and Alpaca-Nettle Fibre Yarn

CHAPTER X

WINDING OF HOSIERY YARNS 90-98

Description of a Modern Winding Machine, Bobbin Building and
the Differential-Damping and Methods Adopted

CHAPTER XI

CIRCULAR KNITTING 99-106

Stocking Knitting Machine-Making of a Ribbed
Sock-Full-fashioned Hosiery-English and French Foot

CHAPTER XII

COLOUR IN KNITTED GOODS 107-116

Naturals, Horizontal Stripes, Vertical Stripes, Tuck Work on
Flat and Circular Frames-Check Designs and Spot Effects

CHAPTER XIII

COLOUR HARMONY AND CONTRAST 117-126

Attributes of Primary, Secondary, and Tertiary
Colours-Application of Colour Principles to the Hosiery Trade