Chapter VI: Appendix

Luxuries of the table in France and England in mediæval and
modern times, 373. Menu of a dinner given by Mathieu Molé, in
1652, 375. Menu of a supper of the Regent Orleans, 376. Menu of a
supper of Louis XV., 377. Carte dinatoire of the citizen General
Barras, 378. Menu of the family Buonaparte at the Tuileries on
Samedi Saint, 1811, 379. Bill of fare of the first dinner of
Louis XVIII. at Compiègne, 380. Bill of fare of a dinner given by
the Emperor Alexander on 11th September, 1815, 382. Bill of fare
of the first diplomatic dinner of the Duke of Wellington in 1815,
383. Menu of a royal banquet given at the Tuileries by Louis
XVIII. on Twelfth-day, 1820, 384. Bill of fare, 385. Luxuries in
the days of Queen Mary, 385. Common Council’s regulation as to
dinners, 385. Regulations for the aldermen, sheriffs, and city
corporation, 386. City venison feasts in time of Elizabeth, 386.
Letter of the Lord Mayor and aldermen to Lord Burleigh, 386. The
reign of Queen Anne the golden age of cookery, 386. Dr. King’s
“Art of Cookery,” 386. Sir John Hill, M.D., 386. The great Lord
Chesterfield, 386. La Chapelle his cook, 386. Cookery book of
La Chapelle, 386. Lord Chesterfield sitting on a chair outside
Chesterfield House, 387. Bill of fare of official dinner of Lord
Chesterfield, 387. Bill of fare of a supper of Lord Chesterfield,
389. The French emigrants in London, 390. Entertainments given
to the French royal family by the Marquis of Buckingham and
Earl of Moira, 390. Reception of the Count de Lille at Stowe,
390. Stowe, a scene of great festivity in 1805 and 1808, 390.
Bill of fare of Christmas-dinner in 1808, given by the Duke of
Buckingham to Louis XVIII, 391. The Prince Regent’s love of
French cookery, 392. Bill of fare for the coronation banquet of
George IV, 392. Bill of fare for a private dinner given at the
Pavilion, Brighton, in 1817, 393. Bills of fare for dinners in
January, April, May, and June, also for a dinner in plain English
fashion, 395. Anthony Carème, 396. Mr. Wm. Hall’s panegyric on
Carème, 398. Autobiography of Carème, 399 to 406. Fête given at
the Elysée for the marriage of Prince Jerome, 406. New invention
of Carème, 407. Aphorisms, thoughts, and maxims of Carème, 407.
Death of Carème in 1835 or 1836, 409. Carème bestowed fine names
on his soups, 409, Carème on maigre sauces, 409.

TERMS IN USE IN THE KITCHEN.

_Atelets._--Small silver skewers.

_Au naturel._--Plainly done.

_Bain Marie._--A warm-water bath; to be purchased at the ironmonger’s.

_Barber._--To cover with slices of lard.

_Blanc._--A rich broth or gravy, in which the French cook palates, lamb’s head, and many other things. It is made thus: A pound of beef kidney fat, minced, put on with a sliced carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, parsley, green onions, slices of lemon without the peel or seeds, or, if much is wanted, two pounds of fat and two lemons. When the fat is a good deal melted, put in water made briny with salt; and when done, keep the _blanc_ for use.

_Blanchir._--To blanch by giving some boils in water.

_Bourguignote._--A _ragoût_ of truffles.

_Braise._--A manner of stewing meat which greatly improves the taste by preventing any sensible evaporation.

_Braisière._--Braising-pan--a copper vessel tinned, deep and long, with two handles, the lid concave on the outside, that fire may be put in it.

_Brider._--To truss up a fowl or anything else with a needle and pack-thread, or tape.

_Buisson._--A method of piling up pastry to a point.

_Bundle or Bunch._--Made with parsley and green onions,--when seasoned, bay leaves, two bunches of thyme, a bit of sweet basil, two cloves, and six leaves of mace are added.

_Capilotade._--A common hash of poultry.

_Cassis._--That part which is attached to the tail end of a loin of veal: in beef, the same part is called the rump.

_Civet._--A hash of game or wild fowl.

_Compiegne._--A French sweet yeast cake, with fruit, &c., &c.

_Compote._--A fine mixed _ragoût_ to garnish white poultry, &c.; also a method of stewing fruit for dessert.

_Compotier._--A dish amongst the dessert service appropriated to the use of the _compote_.

_Couronne_ (_en_).--To serve any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a crown.

_Court ou Short._--To reduce a sauce very thick.

_Croustades._--Fried crusts of bread.

_Cuisson._--The manner in which meat, vegetables, pastry, or sugar is dressed. It means also the broth or _ragoût_ in which meat or fish has been dressed.

_Cullis_ or _Coulis_.--The gravy or juice of meat. A strong consommé.

_Dessert, entrée de._--Dish made of preceding day’s remains.

_Dorer._--To brush pastry, &c., with yolk of egg well beaten.

_Dorure._--Yolks of eggs well beaten.

_Entre côte de Bœuf._--This is the portion of the animal which lies under the long ribs, or those thick slices of delicate meat which may be got from between them.

_Entrées._--A name given to dishes served in the first course with the fish dishes.

_Entremets_--is the second course, which comes between the roast meat and the dessert.

_Escalopes._--Small pieces of meat cut in the form of some kind of coin.

_Fagot_--is a bunch of parsley (the size varies of course), a bay leaf, and a sprig of thyme, tied up closely. When anything beyond this is required it is specified in the article.

_Farce_.--This word is used in speaking of chopped meat, fish, or herbs, with which poultry and other things are stuffed.

_Feuilletage._--Puff-paste.

_Filets Mignons._--Inside small fillets.

_Financière._--An expensive, highly flavoured, mixed _ragoût_.

_Glacer_ (_to glaze_).--To reduce a sauce by means of ebullition to a consistency equal to that of ice. Well made glaze adheres firmly to the meat.

_Godiveau._--A common veal forcemeat.

_Gras_ (_au_).--This signifies that the article specified is dressed with meat gravy.

_Gratiner._--To crisp and obtain a grilled taste.

_Grosses pièces de Fonds._--There are in cookery two very distinct kinds of _grosses pièces_: the first comprehends substantial pieces for removes, &c.; the other _pièces montées_, or ornaments; by _pièces de fonds_ is implied all dishes in pastry that, form one entire dish, whether from its composition, or from its particular appearance; as for example cold pies, Savoy cakes, _brioches_, _Babas_, _gâteaux de Compiègne_, &c.; whilst the _pièces montées_, or ornamental pastries, are more numerous.

_Hors d’œuvres._--Small dishes served with the first course.

_Larding-pin._--An utensil by means of which meat, &c., is larded.

_Lardoire_ (_larder_).--An instrument of wood or steel for larding meat.

_Lardons._--The pieces into which bacon and other things are cut, for the purpose of larding meat, &c., &c.

_To Lard_ is when you put the bacon through the meat. Things larded do not glaze well. Everything larded on the top or surface is called _piqué._

_Madeleines._--Cakes made of the same composition as pound-cakes.

_Mariner._--Is said of meat or fish when put in oil or vinegar, with strong herbs, to preserve it.

_Mark._--To prepare meat to be dressed in a stew-pan.

_Mask._--To cover a dish with a _ragoût_ or something of the sort.

_Nourir_--is to put in more ham, bacon, butter, &c.

_Noix de Veau._--The leg of veal is divided into three distinct fleshy parts, besides the middle bone; the larger part, to which the udder is attached, is called the _noix_, the flat part under it _sous noix_, and the side part, _contre noix_, &c. The _petites noix_ are in the side of the shoulder of veal.

_Paillasse._--A grill over hot cinders.

_Pain de beurre._--An ounce, or an ounce and a half of butter, made in the shape of a roll.

_Panner._--To sprinkle meat or fish which is dressed on the gridiron with crumbs of bread dipped in butter and eggs.

_Panures._--Everything that is rolled in, or stewed with bread crumbs.

_Parer_--is freeing the meat of nerves, skin, and all unnecessary fat.

_Paupiettes._--Slices of meat, rather broad, to be rolled up.

_Piqué_--is to lard with a needle game, fowls, and other meats.

_Poëlé._--Almost the same operation as braising, the only difference is, that what is _poëlé_ must be underdone; whereas a braise must be done through.

_Puit._--A well, or the void left in the middle, when anything is dished round as a crown.

A _Purée_ of onions, turnips, mushrooms, &c., is a pulpy mash, or sauce of the vegetable specified, thinned with boiling cream or gravy.

_Quenelles._--Meat minced or potted, as _quenelles_ of meat, game, fowls, and fish.

_Roux._--This is an indispensable article in cookery, and serves to thicken sauces; the brown is for sauces of the same colour, and the colour must be obtained by slow degrees, otherwise the flour will burn and give it a bitter taste, and the sauces become spotted with black.

_Reduce._--To boil a soup down to a jelly, or till it becomes rich and thick.

_Sabotière._--A pewter or tin vessel, in which are placed the moulds containing the substance to be frozen.

_Sasser._--To stir and work a sauce with a spoon.

_Sauce tournée_ and _velouté_ are not the same, nor has the latter name been substituted by the moderns for the former. _Sauce tournée_ is an unfinished sauce; it is of itself a basis for many other white sauces, but it is in no instance served alone as a sauce with any _entrée_ or _entremets_. _Velouté_ is served with hashes of chickens, veal, _boudins à la reine_, _émincés_, and _entrées_ of _quenelles_, &c.

_Sautez_--is to mix or unite all the parts of a _ragoût_, by shaking it about.

_Singez._--To dust flour from the dredging-box, which is afterwards to be moistened in order to be dressed.

_Tamis_ (_Tammy_).--An instrument to strain broth and sauces.

_Tendrons_ (veal)--are found near the extremity of the ribs.

_Tourner._--To stir a sauce; also to pare and cut roots, vegetables, &c., neatly.

_Tourte._--A puff-paste pie.

_Vanner._--To work a sauce well up with a spoon, by lifting it up and letting it fall.