Chapter IX: Part 9

So far as regards "trick" scoring. The "honours" are known as "Quints," and are (1) The five of any suit, a fifth "honour" being the "Joker" or "Quint Royal"; (2) An ace and four, or a deuce and trey, of the same suit, falling to the same trick. "Quints" count not to the side to which they are originally dealt, but to the side that wins the trick containing {265} them. They are marked as they occur in course of play, according to the following scale: Quint Royal, 25; Quint in Hearts, 20; in Diamonds, 15; in Clubs, 10; in Spades, 5. The contents of the "cachette" (if of any value) are similarly scored by the side that takes it.

The play of Quint Royal is peculiar. It has no trick-taking value at all, and can be scored by the holder only if he can throw it on a trick won by his partner. This he is always allowed to do, whether he holds one of the suit led or not.

With the preceding exception, every player, having one of the suit led, must follow. If he has not, he may trump or over-trump. No selection is made of any particular suit for trumps, but for trumping purposes the suits ascend in power, in Bridge order, from spades to hearts. Thus any spade may be trumped by the deuce of clubs, which may be over-trumped by any other club or by the deuce of diamonds--and so on up to the one card, the ace of hearts, which is a winner against all the rest.

Game is 250 up. A distinction between quints and tricks is that the former are marked up as they occur in course of play, and that, as soon as the scoring of them brings either side up to or beyond 250, that game is at an end, and the rest of the hand is abandoned. The value of the "cachette" may make the winners of it game; if so, the tricks are not counted. If neither side is 250 up after counting all quints, the value of the tricks won is added in. Should such addition bring both parties beyond 250, the higher of the two totals wins. Those who first win two games win the rubber, and score 100 points extra therefor.

There is another method of scoring--by "single," {266} "double," and "treble" games--but the former way has been preferred wherever the writer has seen the game played.

Before Quint Royal has been played, a player who does not hold it should be always on the alert to give his partner the chance of making it. The original leader, therefore (not holding Quint Royal himself), is always expected to start with the ace of spades, if he has it. If not, with the ace of clubs. The ace of hearts is certainly, and the ace of diamonds probably, too valuable to be led out in this way.

The establishment of a black suit is obviously a hopeless task, for both red suits cannot be got out of the way. Hearts, however, may sometimes be extracted for the benefit of a good long suit of diamonds.

DUMMY (OR THREE-HANDED) QUINTO.

In the case of three players only, one plays a Dummy hand in combination with his own. This being a very decided advantage, the Dummy-player is handicapped 25, that number of points being scored to his opponents' credit before the game begins. Rubbers are not played, each game being settled for separately, and the three players take Dummy in rotation, game by game. The partner of Dummy always takes first deal of each game. When either of Dummy's opponents deals, the Dummy-player must look first at the hand from which he has to lead, and must double or re-double from his knowledge of that one hand only.

BOOK ON QUINTO.

HOFFMANN, PROFESSOR.--Quinto: A new and original card game. Goodall &
Son, Ld.

* * * * *

{267}

POKER PATIENCE.

This game, which has recently come into favour among card-players, consists essentially of the task of laying out twenty-five cards face upwards on the table, in five rows of five cards each. A full whist pack of 52 cards is shuffled and cut, and the cards are dealt by the player, one by one, in order from the top.

Each card, after the first, must be laid down, as it is dealt, next to one already on the table, either vertically, horizontally, or diagonally. That is to say, it must be placed immediately above, or below; to the right, or to the left; or corner to corner. The resultant oblong is considered as comprising ten Poker hands (of five cards each), five hands being reckoned horizontally (which we will call the rows) and five vertically (which we will call the columns). The object is to lay out the cards so that the aggregate total score of the ten Poker hands shall be as large as possible. The score-table is as follows (for definition of terms, see page 124):--

Straight flush 30 | Threes 6
Fours 16 | Flush 5
Straight 12 | Two pairs 3
Full 10 | One pair 1

(It will be noticed that the relative values differ from those in Poker proper.) {268}

The game may be played by two or more players, each against all. Each player is provided with a separate pack. One is appointed dealer; his pack is shuffled and cut in the ordinary way. The packs of the other players should, for convenience, be sorted out previously into suits. As a card is dealt, the dealer names it aloud; each of the other players then selects the same card from his own pack. Every one uses his own judgment as to the laying-out of the cards; and when the twenty-five are all played, and the _tableaux_ are complete, the total scored by each player is added up, and the losers pay the winners on an agreed scale.

Supposing five players have scored as follows.--

A, 87; B, 81; C, 78; D, 78; E, 65. A is paid 6, 9, 9, 22 points by B, C, D, E respectively. B is paid 3, 3, 16 points by C, D, E respectively. C and D are each paid 13 points by E. Thus A, B, C, D win 46, 16, 1, 1 points respectively; and E loses 64.

Or we may proceed by adding all the scores together (making 389), multiplying each player's score by 5 (the number of players), and paying for the _differences_, above or below the total. If we multiply each player's total, as given above, by 5, we get A, 435; B, 405; C and D, 390; E, 325. The differences (by excess or defect) between these and 389 give the same result as before.

SERPENT POKER PATIENCE.

This is a "problem" variety of the above game introduced by Ernest Bergholt. In the preceding game, {269} the cards are dealt "blind"--that is to say, when we lay down any given card, we are in ignorance of those that are to follow.

In "Serpent Poker Patience," the twenty-five cards are dealt, in fixed order, _face upwards_, and are all known to the player before he begins to lay them out. This is a pastime for one player only.

If there were no limitation of the rule for laying out the cards, the analysis would be too complicated to be practicable; hence the added restriction, which forbids the _corner to corner_ contact, and enjoins that each card must be laid _vertically or horizontally_ next to the one _last_ played. We have, in fact, to make a "rook's path" on a chess-board of twenty-five squares, beginning and ending where we please.

While analysis is thus simplified, there still remains considerable scope for variation in the total score obtained. The art of play often consists in the sacrifice of valuable combinations in order to obtain others which, in the aggregate, will count a higher number of points; and curious results may thus be sometimes exhibited. I give the following by way of illustration: it is not difficult.

The twenty-five cards are dealt in the order specified:--

D.6, S.5, C.Q, D.Q, H.Q, H.10, C.10, H.6, C.3, H.J, H. ace, H.5, H.8, H.K, S.Q, H.4, C.2, D.2, H.7, S.J, S.3, H.3, D.3, S.6, H.2.

_What is the highest score that can be made by laying out the above cards in serpentine order?_

A few trials will suggest the following arrangement, with two straight flushes, intersecting in the ace of hearts, whereby a total of 78 may be secured:-- {270}

+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| H.8 | H.5 | C.3 | H.6 | C.10|
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| H.K | H.A | H.J | H.Q | H.10|
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| S.Q | H.4 | C.2 | D.Q | C.Q |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| S.6 | H.2 | D.2 | H.7 | S.5 |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| D.3 | H.3 | S.3 | S.J | D.6 |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+

The rows count a straight flush (30), threes (6), a pair (1), threes (6); the columns count a straight flush (30), two pairs (3), pair (1), pair (1). Total, 78.

But the correct solution is as follows (abandoning one of the straight flushes):--

+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| H.8 | H.5 | C.3 | H.6 | C.10|
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| H.K | H.A | H.J | H.Q | H.10|
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| S.Q | S.J | S.3 | D.Q | C.Q |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| H.4 | H.7 | H.3 | D.6 | S.5 |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+
| C.2 | D.2 | D.3 | S.6 | H.2 |
+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+

The rows count a straight flush (30), threes (6), a straight (12), threes (6). The columns count fours (16), full hand (10), pair (1). Total, 81.

* * * * *

{271}

BACKGAMMON.

Backgammon is played by two persons, on a special "board" with thirty "men," fifteen white and fifteen black (or red), similar to those used for the game of Draughts. The board (see Fig. 1) is square, usually of wood, lined with leather, and is divided into two equal compartments, each with a raised wall or border. It is usually made in two portions, {272} hinged so as to fold together, and bearing on their outward surfaces the necessary squares for draughts or chess, so that the one board may answer both purposes.

The board is so placed in use that the two compartments, known as "tables," shall lie longitudinally between the players. One of these is known as the "outer," the other as the "inner" or "home" table. Which of the two is for the time being the inner and which the outer table is governed by the arrangement of the men at starting. With the men placed as in Fig. 1, the right hand is the inner or home table, and the left hand consequently the outer table. The portions of the two latter nearest to each player are known as _his_ inner and outer tables respectively.

Each table is marked with twelve "points," six at either end. They are alternately of black and white, black and red, or other distinctive colours. The two points in the inner table farthest from the dividing partition or "bar" are known as the "ace" points, and those next in order as the two or "deuce" points, followed in succession by the three or "trois" points, the four or "quatre" points, the five or "cinque" points, and finally the "six"[65] points, next the bar. The points in the outer tables are designated in like manner, but starting in this case from the dividing partition. The ace point in the outer table is more commonly known as the "bar" point.

A pair of dice (or sometimes a pair for each player) and a couple of dice-boxes complete the apparatus of the game.

The men are arranged at starting as shown in {273} Fig. 1--viz., two of White's men are placed on the ace point in Black's inner table, five are placed on the six point in Black's outer table, three on the deuce point in White's outer table, and five on the six point in White's inner table. Black's men are placed in like manner on the points immediately facing these.

PLAYING.

The game is commenced by each player throwing on the centre of the board a single die, the higher throw of the two giving the right to begin. In the event of a tie, the players throw again. All subsequent throws are with both dice.

The thrower of the higher number may either adopt the points shown by the two dice as his own throw, or throw again. After throwing, he calls the number of the throw, the higher number first, as "six deuce," "cinque trois," "quatre ace," or as the case may be, and then proceeds to make his move in accordance with it. The movement of the men of each player is from the ace point in his opponent's home table towards the like point in his own, though for many purposes it suffices if he can play them into his own table, independently of their reaching any particular point therein, the object of the game being first to get all the player's men into his own inner table, and then to play them out of it again, according to certain rules to be hereafter stated. The number uppermost on each die entitles the player to move one man forward a corresponding number of points. Thus if he threw "six trois," he is entitled to move one man six points onward, and then the same or another man {274} three points onward. In the event of his throwing the same points with both dice (known as "doublets"), he is entitled to play the throw twice over. Suppose, for example, that he throws two aces; he may move one or more men forward to an aggregate extent of four points. If he throw double deuces, he may move to an aggregate extent of eight points; if double threes, twelve points, and so on.

The right to move is subject to a certain qualification--viz., that a man can only be played to a point which is either vacant or occupied by one or more men of the player, or by one man only of the adversary. A player getting two men on a given point is said to "make" such point, and as he thereby secures such men from capture, and at the same time impedes the onward march of the enemy, it is always an object to do this. A single man on a given point is known as a "blot," and not only does not prevent the enemy playing to that point, but in the event of its being "hit"--_i.e._, reached by an adverse throw, it is "taken up" (placed on the bar between the two tables), and, however far advanced it may have been, has to begin its journey anew from the inner table of the adversary. Nor can such man again start on its journey until its owner is fortunate enough to make a throw corresponding with a vacant point or blot in such table. Until he does this, the play of his other men is suspended. If the adverse player's home table is completely full--_i.e._, each point occupied by two or more men, his play is altogether suspended, the adversary continuing to throw and move until the course of play again throws open one or more points in his table. {275}

Any part of a throw which cannot be played is lost to the thrower, but every player is compelled to play the whole of his throw if it is possible to do so.

BEARING OFF THE MEN.

When either player has succeeded in getting all his men into his home table, he proceeds to "bear them off"--_i.e._, to remove them from the board. When the game has reached this stage, each throw entitles the player either to move forward a man or men (to the extent indicated by the throw) within the limits of his own table, or to remove men from the corresponding points. Thus, suppose that the player's men are thus distributed in his table: five men on the cinque point, three on the quatre point, three on the deuce, and four on the ace point, the trois and six points being unoccupied (see Fig. 2). Suppose that the player throws "quatre trois." For the quatre, he may either remove a man from the quatre point or advance a man from the "cinque" {276} to the "ace" point. In the case of the trois, he has no man on that point, and therefore _must_ play forward, either by advancing a man from the cinque to the deuce, or from the quatre to the ace point. If, however, he throws a number which he cannot deal with after either of these fashions--_e.g._, a six, he is entitled to bear off a man from his highest occupied point, in this case the cinque.

Doublets have, as in the earlier stage of the game, a twofold value, and may be played either wholly by moving men forward, wholly by bearing off, or partly by the one method and partly by the other, as may be desirable. Suppose, for instance, that the player, having his men as shown in the figure, throws deuces; having only three men on the deuce point, he can only bear off that number; the fourth man must be played forward, either from the cinque or quatre point.

The player who first succeeds in removing all his men from the board wins the game, but the _value_ of the game depends upon the stage reached by the adverse player, as follows:--

If the adversary has got all his men into his own home table, and has begun to bear off, the game of the winner is known as a "hit."

If the winner has borne off all his men before his adversary has begun to do the same, the game is known as a "gammon." The loser is said to be "gammoned," and pays double the agreed stake.

If the winner has borne off all his men while the adversary has still a man or men "up" (_i.e._, on the bar) or in his (the winner's) home table, the game is a "backgammon," and the loser pays {277} either thrice or four times (as may have been agreed) the amount of the single stake.

Where several games are played in succession, the winner of a "hit" throws first in the game next following. After a gammon or backgammon, the players throw again for the right to begin, as at starting.

HINTS FOR PLAY.

A leading principle is to "make points" whenever you fairly can, especially in or close to your home table. A second general principle is to avoid the leaving of "blots," particularly where they are likely to be "hit" by the adversary.[66] This latter principle is, however, subject to many qualifications. The advantages of spreading your men, in readiness to make points, may more than counterbalance the risk, and in certain critical conditions of the game it is sometimes even desirable to be "hit," inasmuch as it enables you to make a fresh start from your adversary's home table, and so get the opportunity in turn of taking _him_ up.

At the opening of a game the men on both sides are in a uniform position, and it is, consequently, possible to lay down specific rules as to the best method of playing any given throw. We will go _seriatim_ through all the possible throws. In some instances alternative methods will be given, according as the player aims merely at securing a hit, and is content, therefore, to play for safety, or elects to {278} play a more risky game upon the chance of securing a gammon. This case often arises where the player has already lost the first hit of a rubber, in which case, if he loses the next game, he has lost the rubber also; but if he can secure a gammon (reckoning as a double game), he becomes the winner of the rubber.

ACES.--(The best possible throw at starting.) Play two men on your "bar" point, and two on your cinque point.[67]

DEUCE ACE.--For a hit, play the deuce from the five men in your adversary's outer-table, and the ace from the ace point in his inner table. For a gammon, play the ace from the six to the ace point in your own table.

DEUCES.--For a hit, play two from the six to the quatre point in your own table, and the other two from the ace to the trois point in your opponent's inner table. For a gammon, play the second pair from the five men in his outer table.

TROIS ACE.--Make your cinque point.

TROIS DEUCE.--The approved play is to carry two men from the five in your adversary's outer table to the quatre and cinque points in your own outer table. This, of course, makes two blots. To avoid this, some, for a hit, play one man from the same {279} point to the _deuce_ point in the above-mentioned table, but the bolder play is to be preferred.

DOUBLE TROIS.--There are three ways of playing this throw. Some players make the bar point. The more usual play is, for a hit, to play two to the cinque point in the player's own, and the other two to the quatre point in the adversary's table. For a gammon, play the last two from the six to the trois point in your own table.

QUATRE ACE.--Play the quatre from the five men in your opponent's outer table, and the ace from his ace point. (Timid players, fearing to leave two blots, sometimes play the whole throw from the first-mentioned point, but the plan is not to be recommended.)

QUATRE DEUCE.--Make your quatre point.

QUATRE TROIS.--Play two men from the five in your adversary's outer table.

DOUBLE QUATRE.--Play two men from the ace to the cinque point in the adversary's inner table, and two from the five in his outer table. For a gammon, play two men only, from the point last mentioned to the cinque point in your own table.

CINQUE ACE.--Play the cinque from the five men in your adversary's outer table, and the ace from the ace point in his inner table. For a gammon, play the ace from the six to the cinque point in your own table.

CINQUE DEUCE.--Play both men from the five in your adversary's outer table.

CINQUE TROIS.--Make your trois point.

CINQUE QUATRE.--Move one man from your adversary's ace point to the trois point in his outer table. {280}

DOUBLE CINQUE.--Carry two men from the five in the adversary's outer table, and make your trois point.

SIX ACE.--Make your bar point.

SIX DEUCE.--Move a man from the five in your adversary's outer table to the cinque point in your own table.

SIX TROIS, SIX QUATRE, SIX CINQUE.--Carry one man from your adversary's ace point as far as the throw will permit.

SIXES.--Place two men on your adversary's bar point, and two on your own.

Of the above throws (at the outset of the game), double aces are reckoned the best, and double sixes next best. Double trois comes third, followed by trois ace and six ace. Doublets, if playable, are good, as covering greater distance.

Any throw in which the higher of the two numbers is _two in advance of the other_ (as cinque trois, trois ace) is also good, as enabling you to make a point in your table.[68]

* * * * *

{281}

BAGATELLE.

Bagatelle is played with nine ivory balls on a special table or board, oblong in shape, from 6 to 10 ft. long, and in width about one-fourth of its length, as shown in Fig. 2. At that end of the board which in use is farthest from the player are sunk nine hemispherical holes or cups, one as a {282} centre, with the others in a circle round it. Each hole bears a number, as shown in Fig. 1.

Of the nine balls one is black, four are white, and four are red. Whatever the diameter of the balls, that of the cups must exactly correspond with it. {283} The sides of the board are furnished with a continuous cushion, such cushion at the upper end forming a semi-circle, concentric with the circle made by the cups. The upper edge of each side of the board is pierced with a double row of small holes, sixty in each row, arranged in groups of five. The score is marked by inserting little ivory pegs in these holes, each player using one side of the board. To score the number obtained, the player removes his hinder peg for the time being, and places it the required number of holes in front of the foremost peg.

The balls are propelled, at the option of the player, either with a cue (Fig. 4) or with the mace (Fig. 5). The cue is a reproduction in miniature of that used at Billiards. The mace consists of an oblong "shoe," or block of wood, slightly curved, attached to a long thin tapering handle.

The cue is used as at Billiards. The mace is handled in a different manner. The shoe at its foot is placed in actual contact with the ball, the handle pointing over the right shoulder of the player, grasped, about one-third from the top, between the thumb and second and third fingers of the right hand. The ball is then pushed forward in the desired direction. At best the mace is but a clumsy implement, and would never be used by any one who had acquired {284} even the most elementary skill in handling the cue.

At starting, the black ball is placed on the spot marked _a_ (Fig. 2). The player, taking the remaining balls, places one of them on the spot marked _b_, and impels it in the direction of the black ball. If he hits this latter, the stroke is good, and he plays another ball, continuing till the whole eight have been played. If, however, the first ball played miss the black, it is removed from the table (whether it fall into a hole or not), and is lost to the player for that turn, as also any succeeding ball until the black ball is hit, after which the obligation to strike it ceases. If any ball is so struck as to be driven back towards the player more than half-way down the board, it is in like manner removed. After the black ball is once struck, the player is no longer obliged to place his own ball on the spot _b_, but may place it at any point behind such spot. He continues till the whole of the eight balls have been played.

The object of the player is to "hole" as many of his balls as possible, preferably in the cups bearing the higher numbers. The black ball counts double, and a good player will, therefore, endeavour to get this into the centre hole. This, however, is somewhat difficult, for, if struck directly towards the 9, it must pass over the 1, and is very likely to hole itself therein. It is, therefore, safer play to strike it lightly on the right side, and so drive it towards the 8, into which it may probably be coaxed by a subsequent ball. When the black ball has found a resting-place, the efforts of the player are directed to place his remaining balls to the best advantage. {285} The approved methods of play for doing this, as to holes 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, are indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 3, the ball being so struck as to go "off the cushion" into the desired hole. The best mode of playing a given ball will, however, be greatly governed by the positions occupied by preceding balls.

It frequently happens that a number of balls lie at distances less than their own diameter from the semicircular cushion at top. In such case, a ball sent slowly round the cushion will strike them all in succession, and, driving them towards the centre, may hole one or more of them. If, on the other hand, the balls in question are _more_ than their own diameter from the cushion, the ball sent in pursuit of them will run harmlessly round, and very probably be lost by overpassing the half-way line. Or, again, the balls may be lying close under the cushion, and the impact of the ball in play may simply drive them further round.

It frequently happens that a ball lies just on the brink of a hole, and that a discreet touch in the right place will cause it to drop therein. For such strokes as these the instructions given for securing winning hazards at Billiards may be studied with advantage.

The game is usually 120 points--_i.e._, up and down the board. This number, is, however, not absolute, the player who first reaches it continuing to play until the whole of his eight balls are exhausted, and scoring the whole number obtained. If he be the second player, the game is then at an end, but if he was the first to play, the second player is entitled to {286} play his eight balls also, and the player attaining the larger total is the winner.

If, when the game is won, the loser has not turned the corner--_i.e._, begun to score on the downward journey, the game is a "double," and if there was any stake, the loser pays double accordingly.

Where four persons take part, two play as partners against the two others, one of each side playing alternately the whole of the eight balls.[69]

* * * * *

{287}

BILLIARDS.

The best introduction to an account of Billiards will be a brief explanation of the implements of the game and the terms used in connection with it.

The bed of a full-sized table (see Fig. 1) is 12 ft. long, and 6 ft. 1-1/2 inches wide. The pockets are 3-5/8 inches across. The billiard spot, S, is 12-3/4 inches from the centre of the top cushion, opposite to the baulk. The pyramid spot, P, is placed at the intersection of two lines drawn from the two middle pockets to the opposite top pockets. The centre spot, M, is exactly between the middle pockets. The "baulk" is the space behind a line drawn across the table, 29 inches from the face of the bottom cushion, and parallel to it. The "half-circle," or "D," is 23 inches in diameter, its centre, K, coinciding with the centre of the baulk-line.

The game is played with three balls of equal size and weight, one _red_, one _white_, and one _spot-white_. The diameter of a ball must be not less than 2-1/16 inches, nor more than 2-3/32 inches. The diameter of a match ball, under National Rules, is 2-5/64 inches.

{288}

{289}

The choice of balls and order of play is, unless mutually agreed upon, determined by "stringing" (_i.e._, playing from baulk up the table, so as to strike the top cushion). The striker whose ball stops nearest the lower cushion may take which ball he likes, and play, or direct his opponent to play, as he may deem expedient. In stringing, under National Rules, the players must both play at the same time.

The red ball is, at the opening of every game, placed on the billiard spot, and must be replaced after being pocketed or forced off the table. If the billiard spot be occupied, the red ball must be placed on the pyramid spot, or, if that also be occupied, on the centre spot.

When any player plays from baulk, he must place his ball within the half-circle, or on the line that contains it.

Whoever breaks the balls (_i.e._, leads off) must play out of baulk, though it is not necessary that he shall strike the red ball, and he may give a miss in or out of baulk. But, if in baulk, he must first strike a cushion out of baulk. No player who is in hand is allowed to strike any ball in baulk, or on the baulk-line, unless his ball has first struck a cushion out of baulk. Should, however, a ball be out of baulk, the player in hand may strike any part of that ball without his own ball necessarily going out of baulk.

The player continues to play until he ceases to score, when his opponent follows on.

The various strokes are as under:

1.--A _winning hazard_ is made by the player causing his own ball to hit an object ball and forcing the latter into a pocket.

2.--A _losing hazard_ is made by the player causing his own ball to hit an object ball and forcing his own ball into a pocket. {290}

3.--A _cannon_ is made by causing the player's ball to strike the two object balls. By Billiard Association rules, when two object balls are struck simultaneously, the stroke shall be scored as if the white had been struck first. Under National Rules, such a stroke counts as if the red were struck first.

4.--A _coup_ is made by forcing the player's own ball into a pocket without first striking another ball.

A _miss_ counts one, a _coup_ three, to the opposite player.

The scores are counted as follows:--

A.--A two stroke is made by pocketing an opponent's ball--_i.e._, a winning hazard; or by pocketing the striker's ball off his opponent's--_i.e._, a losing hazard; or by making a cannon.

B.--A three stroke is made by pocketing the red ball--_i.e._, a red winning hazard; or by pocketing the striker's ball off the red--_i.e._, a red losing hazard.

C.--A four stroke may be made by pocketing the white and spot-white balls; or by making a cannon and pocketing an opponent's ball; or by making a cannon and pocketing the striker's ball, the opponent's ball having been first hit.

D.--A five stroke may be made by scoring a cannon and pocketing the red ball; or by a cannon and pocketing the striker's ball, after having struck the red ball first or both balls simultaneously; or by pocketing the red ball and the opponent's ball without cannoning, or by making a losing hazard off the white and pocketing the red ball.

E.--A six stroke is made by the red ball being struck first, and the striker's and the red ball {291} pocketed; or by a cannon off an opponent's ball on to the red and pocketing the two white balls.

F.--A seven stroke is made by striking an opponent's ball first, pocketing it, making a cannon, and pocketing the red also; or by making a cannon and pocketing the red and an opponent's ball; or by playing at an opponent's ball first and pocketing all the balls without making a cannon; or by playing at the red first, cannoning, and pocketing your own and the opponent's ball.

G.--An eight stroke is made by striking the red ball first, pocketing it, making a cannon, and pocketing the striker's ball; or by hitting the red first and pocketing all the balls without making a cannon.

H.--A nine stroke is made by striking an opponent's ball first, making a cannon, and pocketing all the balls.

I.--A ten stroke is made by striking the red ball first, making a cannon, and pocketing all the balls.

Reverting to the terms used in the game, the "cue" is the stick with which the player strikes the ball. It varies in length from 4 ft. 6 inches to 5 ft. The thick end or butt has a diameter of about 1-1/2 inches. The small end or tip varies from 1/2 to 1/4 inch in diameter. The average is about 3/8 of an inch.

The tip is formed of two pieces of leather glued together. When the tip gets greasy or too smooth, it should be rubbed with a piece of chalk.

THE REST.--The real "rest," that is, the support on which the cue is raised in order to strike the ball, is the left hand. This, however, is more {292} generally termed the "bridge"; what is known as the "rest," or "jigger," is a cross of wood fixed at right angles to a handle about the same length as the cue, in order to enable a player to strike a ball when it is too far away to allow him to use his hand as a bridge. Special rests, and cues of extra length, are made to meet exceptional positions of the balls.

IN HAND.--A ball is said to be in hand when it is off the table, and the player has to play from the half-circle or D.

BREAKING THE BALLS.--Whoever plays, being in hand, when the red ball is on the spot and the other ball also is in hand, is said to break the balls.

IN BAULK.--A ball is said to be in baulk when it is between the baulk-line and the bottom cushion.

BREAK.--The series of scores terminating with the stroke in which the player fails to score is called a break.

SCREW AND SCREW-BACK.--This is putting a rotatory motion on a ball, causing it to spin on a horizontal axis backwards. Screw is put on by striking the ball _below the centre_.

FOLLOWING STROKE.--This is putting a rotatory motion on a ball, causing it to spin on a horizontal axis forwards instead of backwards. The stroke is made by striking the ball high up _above the centre_.

SIDE.--This is a rotatory motion put on a ball, making it spin on a perpendicular axis.

In each of the foregoing cases the ball is made to take, after striking another ball, or a cushion, a direction different from that which it would take did no such rotatory motion exist.

In order that the learner may the better understand the meaning of screw, screw-back, following stroke, {293} and side, we will illustrate them by means of a diagram.

In Fig. 1 we will suppose the red ball to be placed on the middle spot in the table, M. The player places his own ball in the centre spot in the baulk-line, K, and aims his ball, first of all, so as to strike the object ball with the ordinary HALF-BALL STROKE--that is, the centre of his ball advances towards the extreme edge of the object ball.

In Fig. 2, O is the object ball; S, the striker's ball. In order to play the half-ball stroke, it is necessary that the player should aim at the point E, the extreme edge of the horizontal diameter of the object ball. Of course, as the diagram shows, he will not strike the ball in the point at which he aims (this is never done save in the case of the ball being struck exactly in the centre), but as S_1, in the point C. When the object ball is thus struck, the striker's ball, supposing there is no screw on the ball, will take the direction indicated in Fig. 2 as S_2. This angle is called the natural angle; about this natural angle we shall have to say more by-and-by. Suppose the stroke played thus. After playing, the ball will follow the line M P (Fig. 1). Now suppose some strong screw had been put on the ball by hitting it low down. The ball, owing to the _hit_, and to its after-contact with the ball at M, would follow the line M P; but, owing to the rotatory motion making the ball revolve or spin backwards, it has a tendency to run back again towards K, the point from which it started. Under the influence of these two forces, the ball takes the medium course shown by the dotted line M P_1. In other words, the striker, although he hits the object ball a half-ball stroke, screws into the middle pocket. {294}

Now suppose, instead of hitting the ball _below_ the centre, he hits it high up above the _centre_, so as to make the ball rotate forwards. After the balls have come in contact, the rotatory motion forwards has a tendency to make the striker's ball run onwards {295} towards the top cushion and away from K, the point from which it started; but the contact with the object ball would--did no rotatory motion exist--cause it to follow the direction of the line M P. Under the influence of these two forces the ball takes a medium course, and follows the line M P_2.

If the player hit the ball at M full, that is, played at it quite straight and hit the ball at M in its nearest point, then, if he put on screw, his own ball would, after striking the ball at M, stop and run back towards K, fast or not according to the amount of rotatory motion he succeeded in putting on his own ball when he struck it.

If the player hit the ball at M full, and hit his own ball high up and above the centre--the following stroke--his ball, after striking the ball at M, would _follow on_, and, if he hit it exactly, would go on in the direction of the spots, P and S.

In putting on _side_, the ball is caused to rotate on a perpendicular axis. For instance (_vide_ Fig. 1), suppose the player places his ball on the centre spot in baulk, K, and hits the cushion in the point T without putting on any side, then the ball would rebound in the direction of T R, just as the angles of incidence and reflection are equal. Suppose, however, the player strikes his ball on the right-hand side, causing it to rotate on a perpendicular axis. When the ball touches the cushion at T, this rotation, owing to the friction between the ball and the cushion, causes the ball to take the direction shown in the diagram by the line T R_1. If, on the other hand, the player hits his ball on the left-hand side, the ball will rebound in the contrary direction shown by line T R_2. This latter stroke is what every player {296} has to make when he wishes to give a miss in baulk.

When a great deal of _side_ is put on a ball, this side has but little effect till the ball touches a cushion.

FLUKE.--When a player plays for one thing, misses it, and gets another, the stroke is called a fluke. Thus, if a man plays for a cannon, misses the cannon and his ball runs into a pocket off the other ball instead, it is a fluke. If, however, he plays for the cannon and _makes_ it, and _then_ his ball runs into a pocket, it is not regarded as a fluke, although he gets what he did not play for.

A JENNY is a losing hazard into one of the middle pockets off a ball near to one of the lower-side cushions. A long jenny is a losing hazard off a ball similarly placed into one of the top pockets.

SPOT STROKE.--A stroke by which a player pockets the red ball from the billiard spot, at the same time bringing his own ball into position to pocket the red again, when the latter is replaced on the billiard spot.

ALL-IN GAME.--A game in which, by prior agreement, any number of spot strokes may be consecutively scored.

SPOT-BARRED GAME.--By the Billiard Association Rules, "if the red ball be pocketed from the billiard spot twice in consecutive strokes by the same player, and not in conjunction with any other score, it shall be placed on the centre spot; if a ball prevent this, then on the pyramid spot, and if both centre and pyramid spots be covered, then on the billiard spot. When the red ball is again pocketed it shall be placed on the billiard spot."

Furthermore, "if when the billiard spot is {297} occupied, a player pocket the red ball from the pyramid spot twice in consecutive strokes, and not in conjunction with any other score, it shall be placed on the centre spot. Should the player, with his next stroke, pocket it again, it shall be placed on the pyramid spot."

TO GET ON THE SPOT.--When a player gets his own ball into an easy position for playing the spot stroke, he is said to get "on the spot."

KISS.--When the balls come in contact a second time they are said to kiss.

A NURSERY.--A series of cannons made when all three balls are very close together is called a nursery of cannons.

SAFETY.--When any one plays simply to leave the balls in such a position that his opponent cannot score by his next stroke, he is said to play for safety.

TWIST.--Another name for screw.

STAB, OR STICK-SHOT.--When any one plays to put a ball in and leave his own ball exactly on the spot where the object ball was, or only a very little way beyond it, the stroke is called a stab.

LINE BALL.--A ball whose centre is exactly on the baulk-line.

FOUL.--A stroke which infringes any rule of the game.

OBJECT BALL.--The ball upon which the striker's own ball impinges.

JAMMED.--When the two object balls touch in the jaws of a pocket, and each touches a different cushion at the same time.

STEEPLECHASE STROKE.--When the striker's own ball is forced off the surface of the table on to, or over, {298} one or both of the object balls. By the Billiard Association Rules, this stroke, "if properly made, is fair, and the referee is the proper person to decide the matter."

One of the most important points for the beginner, as well as for the more experienced player, is the selection of a thoroughly good and reliable cue. Strangely enough, this matter generally receives very little attention, the neophyte being content to take the first that comes to hand. What is even worse, he will change about from day to day,--or from hour to hour,--using cues of different shapes, weight, and balance; and is then surprised that he does not make the progress that he expected.

Reverting to the subject of the half-ball stroke, it is of the greatest importance that all beginners should understand how much depends upon their being able to hit the object ball in the way shown in Fig. 2. Their whole future success as billiard-players will depend upon the accuracy with which they learn to hit the object ball in this particular manner.

First of all, the beginner must learn to hit his own ball freely. We would recommend him to take his first practice-lesson by learning simply how to hit a ball hard--_i.e._, have only one ball to play with. After he has gained a certain amount of what is called freedom of cue, he must next learn to aim at the object ball, so that he always hits it in what we have described as the half-stroke. To ascertain whether he has acquired sufficient "freedom of cue," let him see how many times he can send his own ball up and down the table. {299}

In learning to simply strike your own ball, it is important to learn to strike it hard _without putting on side_. Place your ball in baulk, say nearly in the centre of the half-circle; now play straight up at the top cushion _hard_. If you hit your ball fairly in the centre, the ball will come back straight; if you don't you will put on side, and you can tell how much by the angle at which the ball will rebound from the top cushion. Commence learning, therefore, by hitting your own ball hard enough to send it four to five times up and down the table without side. This is not so easy as many persons would think.

Having learnt to hit his own ball fairly in the centre, the beginner must next learn to hit the object ball a half-ball stroke; and for this purpose it is a very good exercise, at the commencement, to place the red ball on the spot, S (_vide_ Fig. 3), and the striker's ball in position A, that is, just in front of the middle pocket, an inch or two along an imaginary line drawn from the centre of the middle pocket to the edge of the object ball placed on the spot.

The losing hazard off the red into the right-hand top pocket ought now to be a certainty, it being a simple half-ball stroke. After making the hazard, the red ball should, after striking the top cushion, rebound in a line right down the centre of the table (as shown by the dotted line W W).

By watching the direction of the red ball after striking, the beginner will be able to see if he has struck the ball correctly. If he hits it too fine, the red ball will come down the table on the left of the centre line, W W. Should he strike the red ball too full, the red will come down the table on the right-hand side of the line W W. {300}

When the beginner has practised this stroke till he can make a certainty of it, he may then begin to learn how to play what may be called "forcing hazards." For this purpose he can gradually place his own ball lower and lower down the table, as shown in Fig. 3. Suppose, for instance, he places his own ball at B. There is still an easy losing hazard off the red into the top corner pocket, the only difference being that the stroke must be played _harder_. When the ball was placed at A, the losing hazard could be made by simply what is called dropping on to the ball. In fact, the stroke could be played so slowly, that the red ball, after striking the top cushion, would not rebound more than a foot down the table. As, however, the striker's ball is placed lower and lower down the table in the positions shown by the letters B and C, so the stroke must be played harder and harder.

Another perfect half-ball stroke that can be played either slowly or fast, is shown by the two lines, in Fig. 3, drawn from the spot S to the two top pockets. Suppose a ball to be placed in the centre of either top pocket, or a few inches along the line drawn from the pocket to the spot. Then it is a simple half-ball stroke to go in off the red into the other top pocket.

Place the white ball an inch or two away from the top pocket along the line drawn, and place the red ball on the spot. Then drop on to the ball quietly. The hazard is easy, and, supposing you play from, say, the left-hand top pocket, you will not only make the losing hazard, but you will leave the red ball in a position for another easy hazard into the middle pocket. Your own ball, the white, for the next stroke will be in baulk; the red ball will, if you play the stroke correctly, travel along the dotted line shown in the diagram, and stop somewhere about R, thus leaving an easy hazard next time into the right-hand middle pocket.

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Having thus practised the half-ball stroke with slow strength and fast strength, the next point to be considered is losing hazards into the top pockets from baulk. These losing hazards may be called the very backbone of the game.

The chief difficulty experienced by a beginner will be to know where to spot his ball in baulk. This will only come with practice. The eye will gradually accustom itself to the angle. A good player can tell at a glance whether or not a stroke is easy. We would recommend any one learning the game to make one or two spots on the table as follows. First place a card or thin piece of wood upright against the top cushion, and then measure down the table 3 ft. 9-1/2 in. Make a mark on the cloth (a little cross is best), and then place the red ball on this spot. Next let him place the white ball at K (Fig. 4), the centre spot in baulk. The red ball is placed on the spot A, which, as we have said, is just 3 ft. 9-1/2 in. from the face of the top cushion. Now there is an easy losing hazard, if the stroke be played with the ordinary half-ball stroke, into either top pocket off the red ball.

This stroke is capital practice for the beginner, as it gets his eye used to the angle which we have called the "natural" angle.

The advantage of playing the natural angle is that, supposing you fail to hit the ball _exactly_ as you intended, a very slight error in aiming does not alter materially the direction of your own ball after it has come in contact with the object ball. {303}

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