Chapter II: Part 2

Dish a pyramid of vanilla ice cream into a stem individual ice cream glass. Garnish the base of the ice cream with fresh strawberries, dust the cream thickly with toasted piñon nuts, and baste the whole with four tablespoonfuls of Claret Sauce flavored with two tablespoonfuls of rum.

TUTTI FRUTTI PUDDING

1 pint of milk
1 pint of cream
1/2 pint of mixed candied fruits
4 eggs
1 cupful of sugar
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
2 tablespoonfuls of sherry
1 tablespoonful of brandy

Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler, add the yolks of the eggs and the sugar beaten together until light. When the mixture begins to thicken, take it from the fire and stand it aside until perfectly cold. Add all the flavorings. When the mixture is cold, add the cream, and partly freeze it; then add the fruit, and freeze to the right consistency. This should be packed at least two hours to ripen.

This will serve eight persons.

TUTTI FRUTTI, ITALIAN FASHION

1/2 pound of sugar
1 pint of water
1 pint of cream
1/2 pint of chopped mixed candied fruits
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
4 tablespoonfuls of sherry
Yolks of six eggs

Pour the sherry over the fruit. Beat the yolks until creamy. Put the sugar and water over the fire, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and boil five minutes; add the yolks of the eggs, beat until it again reaches the boiling point, take from the fire and beat until cold and thick. Add the cream, the fruit and the vanilla. Freeze as directed on page 7.

This is usually served in small ice cream glasses garnished with whipped cream, or may be served plain. In the absence of ice cream glasses, use ordinary punch glasses.

This will fill ten glasses.

LALLA ROOKH

Fill a lemonade or ice cream glass two-thirds full of vanilla ice cream. Make a little well in the centre and fill the space with rum and sherry mixed. Allow four tablespoonfuls of rum and six of sherry to each half dozen cups.

PEACHES MELBA

Dish a helping of vanilla ice cream in the centre of the serving plate, place in the centre of the ice cream a whole brandied peach, press it down into the ice cream, baste over four tablespoonfuls of Claret Sauce, and serve.

LILLIAN RUSSELL

Cut into halves small very cold cantaloupes. Remove the seeds; fill the centres of the half melons with vanilla ice cream, and garnish with whipped cream pressed through a small star tube. Dish the halves on paper mats on a dessert plate, and send to the table.

ARROWROOT CREAM

1 quart of milk
6 ounces of sugar
1 level tablespoonful of arrowroot
2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla

Moisten the arrowroot with a little cold milk; put the remaining milk in a double boiler; when hot, add the arrowroot and cook ten minutes; add the sugar, take from the fire, and add the vanilla, When perfectly cold, freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve six persons.

ENGLISH APRICOT CREAM

1/2 pint of apricot jam
1 pint of cream
1/2 pint of milk
2 tablespoonfuls of noyau
Juice of one lemon

Mix the jam and the cream, then carefully add the noyau and the lemon juice. Press through a fine sieve, add the milk, and freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve six persons.

FROZEN CUSTARD

1 quart of milk
6 ounces of sugar
2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla
Yolks of four eggs

Put the milk in a double boiler, add the yolks of the eggs and the sugar beaten together, and stir until the mixture thickens. Take from the fire, and, when cold, add the vanilla. Turn into the freezer and freeze as directed. A little chopped conserved fruit may be added at last when the dasher is removed. Chopped black walnuts may also be added.

This will serve six persons.

GELATIN ICE CREAM

1 quart of milk
1/2 pint of cream
6 ounces of sugar
1 tablespoonful of granulated gelatin
2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla

Cover the gelatin with a little cold milk and stand it aside for fifteen minutes. Put the remaining milk in a double boiler; when scalding hot, add the sugar and the gelatin; stir until the sugar is dissolved, take from the fire, and, when perfectly cold, add the cream and the vanilla. Freeze as directed on page 7.

This will serve six persons.

FROZEN PLUM PUDDING

2 pint cans of condensed milk
1/2 cupful of seeded raisins
1/2 pound of sugar
24 almonds that have been blanched and chopped
2 ounces of shredded citron
1/4 pound of candied cherries
2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla
2 tablespoonfuls of sherry
1/2 pint of water
Yolks of four eggs

Put milk in a double boiler over the fire, and stir until the milk is thoroughly heated; add the yolks of the eggs and the sugar beaten together, cook until it begins to thicken, take from the fire and strain. When cold, add the citron, raisins, the cherries cut into quarters, the almonds, vanilla and sherry. When this is perfectly cold, freeze as directed. Do not repack or allow the mixture to stand in the freezer more than a half hour.

Serve plain or with Montrose Sauce.

One quart of good rich milk may be used in place of the condensed milk.

This will serve twelve persons.

CHARLOTTE GLACÉ

Make a quart of vanilla ice cream and stir into it a pint of cream whipped to a stiff froth. Line round stiff paper charlotte boxes with lady fingers, fill them with the iced mixture, and place them at once in a can or bucket packed in salt and ice to freeze for one or two hours.

This quantity will fill twelve boxes.

MAPLE PANACHÉE

Fill stem ice cream dishes half full with caramel ice cream; on top put a layer of vanilla ice cream. Smooth it down and dust thickly with toasted pecan nuts chopped fine.

A pint of each cream will fill six dishes.

GERMAN CHERRY BISCUITS

Fill paper cases half full of pineapple water ice. Put over a layer of candied cherries chopped, then a layer of vanilla ice cream; smooth it quickly, place a marron glacé in the centre, and garnish the cream with a meringue made from the whites of two eggs and two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Dust this with grated macaroons, and send to the table. Make the meringue and grate the macaroons before dishing the ice cream.

A pint of each cream will fill eight cases.

FRUIT SALAD, ICED

Make one quart of lemon or orange water ice and stand it aside for at least one or two hours to ripen. Make a fruit salad from stemmed strawberries, sliced bananas cut into tiny bits, a few very ripe cherries, a grated pineapple if you have it, and the pulp of four or five oranges. After the water ice is frozen rather hard, pack it in a border mold, put on the lid or cover and bind the seam with a strip of muslin dipped in paraffin or suet, and repack to freeze for three or four hours. Sweeten the fruit combination, if you like, add a tablespoonful or two of brandy and sherry, and stand this on the ice until _very cold_. At serving time, turn the mold of water ice on to a round compote dish, quickly fill the centre with fruit salad, garnish the outside with fresh roses or violets, and send at once to the table.

This will serve eight or ten persons at luncheon.

COUPE ST. JACQUE

Make a fruit salad as in preceding recipe. Make a pint of orange or strawberry ice. At serving time fill parfait or ice cream glasses half full of the fruit salad, fill the remaining half with water ice, smooth it over, garnish the top with whipped cream, put a maraschino cherry in the centre, and serve. Other fruits may be used for the salad.

This should make twelve tumblers.

WATER ICES AND SHERBETS OR SORBETS

A water ice is a mixture of water, fruit and sugar, frozen without much stirring; in fact, a water ice can be made in an ordinary tin kettle packed in a bucket. If an ice cream freezer is used, the stirring should be done occasionally. Personally, I prefer to pack the can, put on the lid and fasten the hole with a cork rather than to use the dasher, stirring now and then with a paddle. If you use the crank, turn slowly for a few minutes, then allow the mixture to stand for five minutes; turn slowly again, and again rest, and continue this until the water ice is frozen. A much longer time is required for freezing water ice than ice cream.

When the mixture is thoroughly frozen, take out the dasher, scrape down the sides of the can, give the ice a thorough beating with a wooden spoon; put the cork in the lid of the can, draw the water from the tub, repack it with coarse ice and salt, cover it with paper and a piece of blanket or burlap, and stand aside for two or three hours to ripen just as you would ice cream.

When it is necessary to make water ice every day or two, it is best to make a syrup and stand it aside ready for use.

Fruit jellies may be used in the place of fresh fruits, allowing one pint of jelly, the juice of one lemon and a half pound of sugar to each quart of water.

When water ice is correctly frozen, it has the appearance of hard wet snow. It must not be frothy nor light.

A sherbet or sorbet is made from the same mixture as a water ice, stirred constantly while it is freezing, and has a meringue, made from the white of one egg and a tablespoonful of powdered sugar, stirred in after the dasher is removed.

APPLE ICE

1 pound of tart apples
1 cupful of sugar
1 pint of water
Juice of one lemon or lime

Quarter and core the apples, but do not pare them. Slice them, add the water, cover and stew until tender, about five minutes. Press through a sieve, add the sugar and lemon juice. When cold, freeze as directed. Serve in lemonade glasses at dinner with roasted duck, goose or pork.

This will serve six persons.

APRICOT ICE

1 quart can of apricots
1/2 cupful of sugar
1 pint of water
Juice of one lemon

Press the apricots through a sieve, add all the other ingredients, and serve. This is nice served in lemonade glasses for afternoon tea. Pass sweet wafers.

This will serve eight persons.

CHERRY ICE

2 full quarts of sour cherries
1 pound of sugar
1 quart of water

Stew the cherries in the water for ten minutes and press through a sieve, add the sugar, and, if you have it, two drops of Angostura Bitters; when cold, freeze it as directed on page 63.

This will serve ten persons.

CURRANT WATER ICE

1 pint of currant juice
1 pound of sugar
1 pint of boiling water

Add the sugar to the water, and stir over the fire until it is dissolved. Boil five minutes, take from the fire; when cool, add the currant juice. When cold, freeze as directed on page 63.

This will serve six persons.

CURRANT AND RASPBERRY WATER ICE

1 pint of currant juice
1 pint of raspberry juice
1 pint of water
3/4 pound of sugar

Add the sugar to the water, stir until boiling, boil five minutes, and, when cool, add the raspberry and currant juices, and freeze as directed.

This will serve six persons; in punch glasses, eight persons.

GRAPE WATER ICE

1 pint of grape juice
1 quart of water
1 pound of sugar
Juice of one lemon

Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes, take from the fire, add the lemon juice, and skim. When cold, add the grape juice, and freeze as directed.

If fresh grapes are to be used, select Muscatels or Concords. Pulp the grapes, boil the pulps, press them through a sieve, and add the skins and the pulps to the sugar and water. Boil five minutes, press as much as possible through a sieve, and freeze.

This will serve eight persons.

LEMON WATER ICE

4 large lemons
1 quart of water
1-1/4 pounds of sugar

Grate the yellow rind of two lemons into the sugar, add the water, stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and boil for five minutes. Strain, and stand aside to cool. When cold, add the juice of the lemons, and freeze as directed on page 63.

This will serve six persons.

GINGER WATER ICE

6 ounces of preserved ginger
4 lemons
1 quart of water
1 pound of sugar

Put four ounces of the ginger through an ordinary meat grinder, and cut the remaining two ounces into fine bits. Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes, and add the lemon juice and ground ginger. Take from the fire, add the bits of ginger, and, when cold, freeze as directed. Ginger water ice is better for a two hour stand, after it is frozen. Nice to serve with roasted or braised beef.

This will serve six persons; in small punch glasses, eight.

MILLE FRUIT WATER ICE

1/2 pint of grape juice
6 lemons
1 orange
4 tablespoonfuls of sherry
1/2 pound of preserved cherries or pineapple, or both mixed
1-1/2 pounds of sugar
1 quart of water

Grate the yellow rind of the orange and one lemon into the sugar, add the water, stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, boil five minutes, and strain. Add the fruit cut into small pieces, the juice of the orange and the lemons; when cold, add the grape juice and sherry, and freeze, using the dasher. Do not stir rapidly, but stir continuously, as slowly as possible. When the mixture is frozen, remove the dasher and repack the can; ripen at least two hours.

This is one of the nicest of all the water ices, and may be served on the top of Coupe St. Jacque, or at dinner in sherbet glasses with roasted veal or beef.

This will serve ten persons.

ORANGE WATER ICE

12 large oranges
1 pound of sugar
1 quart of water

Grate the yellow rind from three oranges into the sugar, add the water, boil five minutes, and strain; when cold, add the orange juice, and freeze as directed for water ices.

This will serve ten persons.

POMEGRANATE WATER ICE

12 good sized pomegranates
1 pint of water
1 pound of sugar

Cut the pomegranates into halves, remove the seeds carefully from the inside bitter skin; press them with a potato masher in the colander, allowing the juice to run through into a bowl; be careful not to mash the seeds. Add the sugar to the juice and stir until it is dissolved; then add the water, cold, and freeze. This is very nice to serve with a meat course, and also nice for the garnish of a fruit salad.

This will serve six persons.

PINEAPPLE WATER ICE

2 ripe pineapples or
1 quart can of grated pineapple
1 quart of water
1-1/2 pounds of sugar
Juice of two lemons

Pare the pineapples, remove the eyes, and grate the fruit into the water. Add the sugar and lemon juice, boil five minutes, and, when cold, freeze as directed on page 63.

This will serve ten persons.

STRAWBERRY WATER ICE

1 quart of strawberries
1 pound of sugar
1 quart of water
Juice of two lemons

Add the sugar and the lemon juice to the stemmed strawberries, let them stand one hour; mash them through a colander, and then, if you like, strain through a fine sieve. Add the water, and freeze as directed on page 63.

This will serve eight persons.

RASPBERRY WATER ICE

1 quart of red raspberries
1 pound of sugar
1 quart of water
Juice of two lemons

Add the sugar and the lemon juice to the raspberries, stir and stand aside one hour. Press through a sieve, add the water, and freeze as directed on page 63.

This will serve eight persons.

ROMAN PUNCH

Make one quart of lemon water ice. When ready to serve, fill it into small punch glasses, make a little well in the centre and fill the space with good Jamaica rum.

This will serve eight persons.

SOUR SOP SHERBET OR ICE

Squeeze the juice from one large sour sop, strain, and add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, boiled a moment with four tablespoonfuls of water. Freeze as directed on page 63.

A quart of sour sop when frozen will serve six persons.

CRANBERRY SHERBET

1 pint of cranberries
1/2 pound of sugar
1/2 pint of water

Add the water to the cranberries, cover, bring to a boil; press through a colander, return them to the fire, add the sugar, and stir until the sugar dissolves. Take from the fire, and, when cold, freeze, stirring slowly all the while.

Serve with the meat course at dinner.

This will serve eight persons.

CUCUMBER SORBET

2 large cucumbers
2 tart apples
1 pint of water
1 teaspoonful of sugar
1/2 teaspoonful of salt
1 tablespoonful of gelatin
1 saltspoonful of black pepper
Juice of one lemon

Peel the cucumbers, cut them into halves and remove the seeds. Dissolve the gelatin in a half cupful of hot water. Grate the flesh of the cucumbers; grate the apples, add them to the cucumbers, and add all the other ingredients. Freeze as you would ordinary sherbet.

Serve in tiny glasses, with boiled cod or halibut.

This will fill eight small stem glasses.

GOOSEBERRY SORBET

1/2 pint of gooseberry jam
4 tablespoonfuls of sugar
1 pint of water
Juice of one lemon

Mix all the ingredients together and freeze, turning slowly all the while. Serve in small glasses.

This is usually served at Christmas dinner with goose.

This will serve six persons.

ORANGE SHERBET

1 pint of orange juice
2 tablespoonfuls of gelatin
3/4 pound of sugar
1 pint of water

Cover the gelatin with an extra half cupful of cold water and soak for a half hour. Add the sugar to the pint of water and stir it over the fire until it boils; add the grated yellow rind of two oranges and the juice; strain through a fine sieve and freeze, turning the freezer slowly all the while. Remove the dasher, stir in a meringue made from the white of one egg, and repack to ripen for an hour at least.

This will serve six persons.

MINT SHERBET

2 dozen stalks of spearmint
1/2 pound of sugar
1 quart of water
Juice of three lemons

Strip the leaves from the stalks of the mint, chop them to a pulp and rub them with the sugar. Add the water, bring to a boil, boil five minutes, and, when cold, add three drops of green coloring and the juice of the lemons; strain and freeze, turning slowly all the while.

Serve at dinner with mutton or lamb.

This will serve six persons; in small stem glasses, eight persons.

TOMATO SORBET OR SHERBET

1 quart can or 12 fresh tomatoes
1 slice of onion
1 blade of mace
1 saltspoonful of celery seed
1 pint of water
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of paprika
1 tablespoonful of gelatin
Juice of one lemon
A dash of cayenne

Add all the ingredients to the tomatoes, stir over the fire until the mixture reaches the boiling point, boil five minutes, and strain through a fine sieve. When this is cold, freeze according to the rule for sherbets, turning slowly all the time.

Serve in punch glasses at dinner as an accompaniment to roasted beef, or venison, or saddle of mutton.

If fresh tomatoes are used, simply cut them into halves and cook them without peeling.

This will fill nine or ten punch glasses.

FROZEN FRUITS

Frozen fruits are mixed and frozen the same as water ices, that is, they are only stirred occasionally while freezing, but the fruit must be mashed or it will form little balls of ice through a partly frozen mixture. The only difference between a water ice and a frozen fruit is that the mixture is not strained, and more fruit and less water is used. If canned fruits are used, and these recipes followed, cut down the sugar. Cream may be used in place of water with sub-acid fruits.

FROZEN APRICOTS

1 quart of apricots
2 tablespoonfuls of gelatin
1 cupful of sugar
1 pint of cream

Drain the apricots from the can, mash them through a colander, add the sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Cover the gelatin with a half cupful of cold water and soak for a half hour. Stand it over hot water, stir until dissolved, add it to the apricot mixture, and freeze. When frozen, remove the dasher and stir in the cream whipped to a stiff froth. Repack and stand aside two hours to ripen.

This will serve ten persons.

FROZEN BANANAS

12 large ripe bananas
1 pound of sugar
1/2 pint of water
1 pint of cream
Juice of two lemons

Peel the bananas and mash them through a colander. Add the sugar to the water, and boil five minutes; when cold, add the lemon juice and the bananas. Put the mixture into a freezing can, stir slowly until frozen. Remove the dasher and stir in carefully the cream whipped to a stiff froth.

This will serve ten or twelve persons.

FROZEN CHOCOLATE

1 quart of milk
3 ounces of chocolate
2/3 cupful of sugar
1 pint of water
1/2 pint of cream, whipped
1 teaspoonful of vanilla

Grate the chocolate and put it in a double boiler with the water and sugar; let the water in the surrounding boiler boil fifteen minutes, beat well, and add the milk. Stir until thoroughly mixed, and the milk is very hot. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and when the mixture is cold, freeze, turning slowly all the while. Serve in chocolate cups with the whipped cream on top.

This will fill nine chocolate cups.

FROZEN PINEAPPLE

2 large pineapples
1 quart of water
1 pound of sugar
Juice of one lemon

Peel the pineapples and grate them. Add the sugar to the water, stir until the sugar is dissolved, boil five minutes and cool; add the pineapple and lemon juice, and freeze, turning the freezer slowly.

This will serve eight or ten persons.

FROZEN COFFEE

1 quart of cold water
1/2 pound of sugar
6 heaping tablespoonfuls of finely ground coffee
1/2 pint of cream

Put the coffee and the water in a double boiler over the fire, and let the water in the surrounding boiler boil for at least twenty minutes after it begins to boil. Strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth, add the sugar, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and stand aside until very cold. Add the cream and the unbeaten white of one egg. Freeze, turning the freezer slowly. This should be the consistency of a soft mush and very light.

Serve in coffee cups, either plain or with whipped cream on top.

This will serve six persons,

FROZEN PEACHES, No. 1

2 pounds of very ripe peaches
6 peach kernels
1 pint of water
1/2 pound of sugar
Juice of one lemon

Crack the kernels, chop them fine, add them to the sugar, add the water, and boil five minutes; strain and stand aside to cool. Pare the peaches, press them through a colander, add them to the cold syrup, turn into the freezer, and stir slowly until the mixture is frozen. If the peaches are colorless, add a few drops of cochineal before freezing.

This will serve eight persons.

FROZEN PEACHES, No. 2

1 quart of peach pulp
1 pint of cream
3/4 pound of sugar
Juice of one lemon

Add the lemon juice to the peach pulp, add the sugar, and stand aside, stirring every now and then until the sugar is dissolved. Freeze the mixture, stirring slowly; when frozen, remove the dasher, and fold in the cream whipped to a stiff froth.

This is one of the nicest ices for afternoon or evening collations.

This will serve eight persons; in stem glasses, ten persons.

FROZEN RASPBERRIES

1 quart of raspberries
3/4 pound of sugar
1 pint of water
Juice of one lemon

Add the sugar and the lemon juice to the berries, mash them with a potato masher. Let them stand one hour, add the water, and freeze.

This will serve eight persons.

FROZEN WATERMELON

Scrape the centre from a very ripe watermelon, chop quickly and press through a colander. To each pint of this juice, add a half cupful of sugar and four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Freeze until it is like wet snow. Serve in glasses. One pint will fill three stem glasses.

FROZEN STRAWBERRIES

1 quart of very ripe strawberries
1 pound of sugar
1 pint of water
Juice of one lemon

Add the sugar and lemon juice to the berries, let them stand one hour. Mash the berries through a colander, add the water, and freeze, turning the dasher constantly but very slowly.

This will serve eight persons.

FRAPPÉ

A frappé is nothing more nor less than a water ice partly frozen. For instance, Café Frappé is a partly frozen coffee. The mixture looks like wet snow. A Champagne Frappé is champagne packed in salt and ice and the bottles agitated until the champagne is partly frozen.

PARFAIT

A parfait is a dessert made from frozen whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. An old fashioned parfait was not frozen in an ice cream freezer; the mixture was packed at once into a mold, the mold packed in salt and ice to freeze for two or three hours. To be perfect, the mixture must be frozen on the outside to the depth of one and a half to two inches, with a soft centre. The quick parfait given under frozen desserts is now in general use.

MOUSSE

A mousse is a parfait frozen to the centre. These mixtures are not smooth like ice cream, but are frozen in crystals and to be exactly correct, should look like moss when cut.

BURNT ALMOND MOUSSE

1/4 pound of Jordan almonds
2 ounces of almond paste
2/3 cupful of powdered sugar
1 pint of thick cream
1 teaspoonful of almond extract

Whip the cream to a very stiff froth. Blanch, toast and grind the almonds, putting them through an ordinary meat grinder; rub them with the almond paste, adding the extract and about two tablespoonfuls of water or sherry. Sprinkle the sugar over the whipped cream, and then fold in the nut mixture. Pack at once into a mold, put on the lid, fasten the seam with a strip of muslin dipped in paraffin or melted suet, and pack in coarse salt and ice to freeze for two or three hours.

Serve plain or dusted with chopped almonds.

This will serve six persons.

COFFEE MOUSSE

1 pint of cream
1/2 cupful of powdered sugar
2 tablespoonfuls of coffee extract

Whip the cream to a stiff froth, sprinkle over the sugar, add the coffee extract, and, when well mixed, pack and freeze.

This will serve six persons.

EGYPTIAN MOUSSE

1/2 cupful of rice
1 tablespoonful of gelatin
2/3 cupful of sugar
1/4 pound of dates
1/2 pint of milk
1 pint of cream
1 teaspoonful of vanilla

Wash the rice, throw it into boiling water, boil rapidly twenty minutes; drain, add the milk, and cook in a double boiler fifteen minutes. Add the sugar, the gelatin that has been moistened in cold water, and the dates chopped. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and when the mixture is cold, fold in carefully the whipped cream. Freeze as directed in a mold, and serve with cold quince jelly sauce.

This will serve ten persons.

DUCHESS MOUSSE

4 eggs
1/2 cupful of sugar
1 pint of cream
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
5 drops of cochineal

Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar until very, very light; fold in the whites of the eggs and the flavoring. Stand the bowl in a pan of boiling water and beat continuously until the ingredients are hot; take from the fire and beat constantly for ten minutes. When this is cool, fold in the cream whipped to a stiff froth, pack and freeze.

Serve with quince jelly sauce poured over the mousse.

This will serve eight persons.

PISTACHIO MOUSSE

4 ounces of pistachio nuts
1 tablespoonful of gelatin
1 pint of water
1 pint of cream
1/2 pound of sugar
1 teaspoonful of almond extract
3 drops of green coloring

Blanch the pistachio nuts and put them through a meat grinder. Boil the sugar and water for five minutes; when cool, add the coloring, the pistachio nuts, and the gelatin moistened in a little cold water. When this is cold, fold in the cream beaten to a stiff froth, and freeze in a mold as directed.

If this is not too well mixed the cream will separate, which makes the handsomer dessert. When the mousse is turned from the mold it will then have a solid white base with a rather green, beautiful transparent mixture at the top.

This will serve ten persons.

RICE MOUSSE WITH A COMPOTE OF MANDARINS

1/2 cupful of rice
1 tablespoonful of gelatin
2/3 cupful of sugar
1 pint of milk
1 pint of cream
1/4 pound of candied cherries
1 teaspoonful of vanilla

Wash and boil the rice in water for twenty minutes, drain, put it in a double boiler with the milk and sugar; stir until the sugar is dissolved, cover the kettle and cook slowly for twenty minutes. Press through a sieve, add the vanilla, and the gelatin covered with cold water. When this is cold, fold in the cream whipped to a stiff froth; pack and freeze.

I usually freeze this in the ordinary ice cream can; simply remove the dasher, put in the mixture and pack it to freeze for two or three hours.

While this is ripening, separate the mandarins into carpels. Boil together for five minutes one pound of sugar, a half pint of water and the juice of one lemon; take from the fire, add at once the carpels, stir lightly until they are thoroughly covered with the syrup and stand aside until _very cold_.

At serving time, wipe the outside of the freezing can with a warm towel, turn the mousse into the centre of a round dish, heap the carpels around the base and over the top in the form of a pyramid, pour over the syrup, and send at once to the table.

This will serve twelve persons.

SAUCES FOR ICE CREAMS

HOT CHOCOLATE SAUCE

1/2 cupful of cream or condensed milk
2 ounces of chocolate
1 cupful of sugar
1 teaspoonful of vanilla

Put all the ingredients into a saucepan and stir over the fire until they reach boiling point, boil until the mixture slightly hardens when dropped into cold water. Add the vanilla, turn at once into the sauceboat and send to the table. This must be sufficiently thin to dip nicely over the ice cream.

MAPLE SAUCE

1 cupful of sugar
1 teaspoonful of lemon juice
1 cupful of water
1 teaspoonful of maple flavoring

Put half the sugar in an iron saucepan and stand it over the fire until it melts and browns, add hastily the water, the remaining sugar and the lemon juice, and boil for about two minutes; take from the fire and add the flavoring. This may be served plain, or with chopped fruit or nuts added.

CLARET SAUCE

Boil one cupful of sugar and a half cupful of water with a saltspoonful of cream of tartar for five minutes. Take from the fire and add one cupful of claret, and stand aside until icy cold.

NUT SAUCE

1 cupful of sugar
1/2 cupful of chopped nuts
1 cupful of water
1 teaspoonful of caramel
2 teaspoonfuls of sherry

Boil the sugar and water with a saltspoonful of cream of tartar or a teaspoonful of lemon juice for five minutes, take from the fire and add all the other ingredients, and stand aside to cool.

MONTROSE SAUCE

1/2 tablespoonful of granulated gelatin
1/4 cupful of sugar
1/2 cupful of milk
1 pint of cream
2 tablespoonfuls of brandy
1 teaspoonful of vanilla
Yolks of 3 eggs

Cover the gelatin with milk, let it soak a half hour, and put it, with the milk, in a double boiler over the fire. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, add them to the hot milk, stir about one minute until the mixture begins to thicken, take from the fire, and, when cold, add the vanilla and the brandy, and, if you like it, four tablespoonfuls of sherry. Stand this aside until very, very cold.

ORANGE SAUCE

1/2 pint of orange juice
1/2 pint of water
1/2 cupful of sugar
1 tablespoonful of arrowroot
Whites of three eggs

Add the sugar to the water, and, when boiling hot, add the arrowroot moistened. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add gradually the hot mixture, beating all the while. Add the orange juice, beat again. Turn it into a sauceboat and stand aside until very cold.

WALNUT SAUCE

Melt maple sugar with a little water, and add to each cupful of syrup a half cupful of chopped black walnuts. Maple syrup may also be used by adding half the quantity of boiling water and the nuts.

REFRESHMENTS FOR AFFAIRS

In arranging this matter, I have made an earnest effort to be of service to the housewife without or with one maid, as well as to those who are fortunate enough to have trained help.

It is, perhaps, unnecessary to say that elaborate refreshments are entirely out of place at small afternoon or evening cards. An ice, with a wafer, or cake and coffee, served on card tables, are sufficient. A salad, with bread and butter sandwiches and coffee, or a salad sandwich with coffee, make a nice combination. Hot dishes, even light entrées, seem to call for a dessert, or another course and coffee. For wedding and other large receptions serve a greater variety of dishes--jellied meats, boned chicken, salads, sandwiches, ices, cakes and coffee. In winter creamed dishes may be served in paper cases on the same plate with salads and other cold dishes. Serve coffee in small cups after refreshments.

Many so called elaborate dishes are quite easily made, and entrées are frequently quite as good when rewarmed.

Chicken croquettes may be made and fried early in the day, ready to rewarm on brown paper in a baking pan in a hot oven ten minutes before serving time. Sandwiches will keep perfectly well for several hours if wrapped in a damp towel and closed in a tin bread box. Salad sandwiches are better, however, if made as near serving time as possible.

If a large reception is to be given, even with good help, prepare as many dishes as possible the day before, to avoid confusion on the fixed day.

Refreshments for small affairs need not necessarily cost much time or money. A half cupful of chopped left-over steak, a couple of chops or a bit of chicken or a box of sardines, make a good foundation for molds of tomato jelly. Served with bread and butter sandwiches and coffee they are quite sufficient for afternoon or evening cards.

Many of the ices in this book are new and attractive. The new sorbets are liked by those who are always striving for a change. Many are old and reliable.

At large affairs, serve from the dining table.

At card parties, large and small, serve on the card tables, using a small tea cloth on each table.

At afternoon teas, serve from the tea table in the drawing room.

At lawn parties, serve from a large table on the lawn. Small tables may be placed here and there for the convenience of guests.

Every day afternoon tea may be served, in the summer on the porch, in the winter, in the living room or library.

If two dishes only are served, be sure that they harmonize with each other and with the manner of service.

Suitable and hygienic combinations are always to be considered, but the æsthetic side seems to me of equal importance.

COFFEE FOR LARGE HOME AFFAIRS

Allow eleven ounces of finely ground coffee to each gallon of water. This will serve twenty five persons with one coffee cup each, and forty persons with after-dinner cups. The better way to make a large quantity of coffee without an urn is to purchase a new wash boiler. Wash it and put in the required quantity of water (cold). Weigh the coffee and divide it into half pound lots. Put each lot in a small cheese cloth bag; tie the top of the bag, allowing room for the coffee to swell. Put the bags in the water an hour before serving time, bring slowly to a boil, and then boil rapidly for five minutes. Remove the bags at once, pressing them well. Keep the coffee very hot until it is all served.

Coffee is not spoiled by being kept at boiling point for some time, if the grounds are removed.

SOUPS

BOUILLON

2 pounds of chopped lean beef
2 quarts of cold water
1 small onion
12 cloves
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
2 teaspoonfuls of salt
12 whole peppercorns
A dash of cayenne
Juice of half a lemon

Put the sugar in the soup kettle, add the onion, sliced, and shake until the onion is thoroughly browned and the sugar almost burned; add the meat, shake it for a moment, and add the water. Cover, bring to boiling point, and put over a slow fire to simmer for two hours. Add all the seasonings and simmer one hour longer. Strain through a colander, pressing the meat. Beat the whites of two eggs slightly, then whisk them into the warm bouillon, and add the juice of the lemon. Bring to boiling point, boil rapidly five minutes, let it stand a moment, and strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth. This should stand until it is perfectly cold, so that every particle of fat may be removed from the surface. Reheat to serve.

This will serve ten persons, using ordinary bouillon cups.

CLAM BOUILLON

50 large clams
2 quarts of water
12 whole peppercorns
1/2 teaspoonful of celery seed

Wash and scrub the clams thoroughly. Put them, a few at a time, in the soup kettle, the bottom of which has been covered with a pint of boiling water. Boil rapidly, take the clams out with a skimmer, and put in another lot, and so continue until all the clams have been cooked. Remove them from the shells, saving all the liquor. Chop and return them, with the liquor and remaining water, to the soup kettle. Simmer gently a half hour, then add the peppercorns, crushed, and the celery seed. Cover the kettle, take it from the fire and allow it to stand until perfectly cold. Strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth. Reheat to serve.

This will serve fifteen persons.

BELLEVUE BOUILLON

1 quart of plain or chicken bouillon
1 quart of clam bouillon
1/2 pint of cream
Paprika

This is one of the most elegant of all bouillons. Heat the bouillons separately, mix them at the last minute, pour at once into heated cups, put a tablespoonful of whipped cream on the top of each cup, garnish with a dusting of paprika, and send to the table.

This will serve ten persons; in a pinch, twelve.

CHICKEN BOUILLON

1 four pound fowl
3 quarts of water
1 onion
2 tablespoonfuls of sugar
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 bay leaf
1 saltspoonful of celery seed, or one half cupful of chopped celery
1 saltspoonful of black pepper

Draw the chicken and cut it up as for a fricassee. Scald and skin the feet, and crack them thoroughly with your cleaver knife. Put the sugar in a soup kettle, add the onion, sliced, shake over a quick fire until brown, add the chicken and the water, bring to boiling point, and skim. Simmer gently for two hours. Add all the seasonings, simmer one hour longer, and strain. Add the juice of half a lemon and the whites of two eggs, slightly beaten. Boil rapidly five minutes, and strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth. Reheat to serve. This may be used in place of beef bouillon, with the clam broth, for Bellevue bouillon.

This will serve twelve persons.

OYSTER BOUILLON

50 fat oysters
2 quarts of water
12 whole peppercorns
12 whole allspice
1-1/2 teaspoonfuls of salt

Drain and wash the oysters. Throw them at once in a hot kettle, shake until the gills have curled, cover the kettle, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Drain again, this time saving the liquor. Return it to the kettle with the peppercorns and allspice, crushed, and water. Chop the oysters with a silver knife, put them back in the kettle, simmer gently a half hour, and add the salt. Strain through two thicknesses of cheese cloth, reheat and serve with whipped cream on top of each cup.

This serves fifteen persons.

TOMATO PUREE à la RORER

1 quart can of tomatoes
1/2 pint of cream
1 quart of chicken bouillon
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot
1 bay leaf
1 blade of mace
1 onion
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of paprika

Add the onion, paprika, mace and bay leaf to the tomatoes, boil rapidly five minutes. Moisten the arrowroot with three or four tablespoonfuls of cold water, add it to the hot tomato, boil ten minutes, and press through a sieve. Add the chicken bouillon, boil ten minutes, add the butter, and, when the butter is thoroughly dissolved, turn at once into cups. Put a tablespoonful of whipped cream on top of each, and serve.

This will serve ten persons.

GLAZE

Glaze is absolutely necessary for fine cooking, either for the browning of sweetbreads, birds or chickens.

Cover a half box of gelatin with a half cupful of cold water to soak for an hour. Put one quart of good bouillon, chicken or beef, over the fire, and boil it rapidly until reduced to a pint; add the gelatin. As soon as the gelatin is dissolved, strain the mixture. Put four tablespoonfuls of sugar into an iron saucepan, stir until it is browned, then add to it slowly the hot glaze, stir until it is thoroughly melted, turn it into a china or granite receptacle, and stand away to cool. Keep this in the refrigerator, and use it according to directions.

SWEETBREADS

SWEETBREADS à la CREME, No. 1

2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1 can of mushrooms
1 pint of milk
4 level tablespoonfuls of butter
4 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1 level teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of white pepper

Wash the sweetbreads and trim them. Throw them in a saucepan of boiling water and simmer gently for one hour; drain and throw them in cold water. The water in which they were boiled may be used for stock. When they are thoroughly cold, remove the membrane, and pick them into small pieces. Rub the butter and flour together in a saucepan, add the milk, stir until boiling, add the mushrooms, chopped fine, the sweetbreads, salt and pepper. Stir until it again reaches the boiling point, cover and stand over hot water for twenty minutes. Serve in ramekin dishes, paté shells or paper cases. This will fill twelve cases, or fourteen paté shells.

SWEETBREADS à la CREME, No. 2

1 pound of fresh mushrooms
2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1/2 pint of milk
4 level tablespoonfuls of butter
4 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of white pepper

Wash and stem the mushrooms; do not peel them. With a silver knife cut them into slices. Put half the butter in a saucepan, add the mushrooms and half the milk, and the salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan, and stew slowly a half hour. Rub the remaining butter and flour together; drain the liquor from the mushrooms, add it, with the rest of the milk, to the butter and flour. Stir until boiling, add the mushrooms and sweetbreads that have been boiled and picked apart. Cover the saucepan, stand it over hot water, or use a double boiler, pushing the boiler to the back of the stove for twenty to thirty minutes. The saucepan must be kept closely covered, or the aroma of the mushrooms will be lost.

This will fill sixteen cases, or fourteen paté shells, or alone it will serve twelve persons.

SWEETBREADS à la BORDELAISE

1 pair of calves' sweetbreads
1/2 pint of stock
1 onion
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoonful of salt
1 can of mushrooms
1 teaspoonful of browning or kitchen bouquet
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
2 level tablespoonfuls of flour

Wash the sweetbreads, put them in a saucepan, add the bay leaf, onion and one pint of cold water; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently one hour. Save the water in which they were boiled. Throw the sweetbreads into cold water, remove the membrane and pick them apart. Put the butter and flour in a saucepan; when thoroughly mixed, add a half pint of stock in which the sweetbreads were boiled, stir until boiling, add the mushrooms, drained, and the seasoning. Bring to boiling point, and push to the back of the fire for ten minutes. Skim off any butter that comes to the surface, add the sweetbreads, cook gently ten minutes longer, and serve in either paté cases, ramekin dishes, or paper cases.

This will serve eight persons.

BAKED SWEETBREADS

2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1 can of French peas
3 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of glaze
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of pepper

Wash the sweetbreads and soak them in cold water; cut them apart and trim them neatly. Sprinkle the bottom of a baking pan with a chopped onion, put the sweetbreads on top, dust them lightly with salt and pepper, baste them with one tablespoonful of the butter, melted, and run them in a quick oven to bake for twenty minutes. Then brush them thoroughly with glaze and bake them ten minutes longer. Drain, wash and heat the peas, add the remaining butter and season them with salt and pepper. Put the peas in the bottom of the serving dish, dish the sweetbreads in them and send at once to the table. These may also be served in individual dishes, cutting the sweetbreads in small pieces, so they may be eaten with a fork.

They will serve from four to six people. The throat sweetbread may be cut into halves, but as a rule one sweetbread is served to each person.

LAMBS' SWEETBREADS IN PAPER CASES

8 lambs' sweetbreads
1/2 box of gelatin
1 pint of beef stock or chicken bouillon
1 can of peas
1 head of celery
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
2 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1/2 pint of milk
1 lemon
Hearts of lettuce
Yolks of two eggs
Salt and pepper

Wash the sweetbreads, put them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a sliced onion. Cook gently for three-quarters of an hour. Drain, put them in a baking pan, brush them with butter, add a few tablespoonfuls of glaze or stock, put over three or four slices of bacon, and cook in the oven a half hour, basting three or four times. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of the soaked gelatin, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little white pepper. Take from the fire and add hastily the beaten yolks of the eggs. Cover the bottom of a cold baking pan with muffin rings, put one sweetbread into each muffin ring. When the sauce is a little cool, cover the sweetbreads thoroughly, filling the rings quite full. Stand these away over night in a cold place.

Dissolve the remaining gelatin in the hot bouillon, season, add the lemon juice, and stand it aside over night. At serving time, remove the contents from the rings and place them in paper cases of the same size. Turn the clear aspic out on to a towel and cut it into pretty shapes. Decorate the top of the cases with this aspic, placing a sprig of green in the centre. Drain and press the cold peas through a sieve, and season them with salt and pepper; put this pulp in a pastry bag with a star tube, and decorate the top of each mold. Serve at once with mayonnaise passed in a boat.

Another way is to fill the bottom of the paper cases with finely chopped celery, mixed with mayonnaise, and put the sweetbreads on top, omitting the peas. If made well, these are exceedingly handsome. One "ring" will be served to each person.

SWEETBREADS à la NEWBURG

2 pairs of calves' sweetbreads
1 can of mushrooms
4 hard boiled yolks of eggs
1/2 pint of milk
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
1 tablespoonful of flour
1/2 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg
A dash of cayenne

Cook the sweetbreads as directed in first recipe; when cold, pick them apart, rejecting the membrane. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling, and add this slowly to the mashed yolks of the eggs. Work and stir until you have a perfectly smooth paste. Press it through a fine sieve, add the salt, pepper, mushrooms and sweetbreads. Stand over hot water for twenty minutes, until thoroughly hot. Add, if you use it, four tablespoonfuls of sherry, and serve.

This will serve ten persons.

SHELL-FISH DISHES

DEVILED CRABS

12 crabs, or one pint of crab flake
4 hard boiled eggs
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of soft bread crumbs
1 tablespoonful of flour
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
1/2 pint of milk
A dash of cayenne

Chop the whites of the hard boiled eggs very, very fine. Put the yolks through a sieve. Rub the butter and flour together, and add the milk; stir until boiling, take from the fire, and add the bread crumbs and the eggs. Add all the seasoning to the crab flake, mix the two together, and fill at once into the shells. The shells must be quite full, so that there will be no danger of the fat being held in the shell. Dip the shells in egg, then cover them thickly with bread crumbs. It is well to egg and bread crumb the upper side again; in fact both dippings may be on the upper sides, leaving the shells red underneath. Put these in a frying basket and fry for a minute in hot, deep fat. Serve one to each person.

This quantity should fill eight shells.

CRAB BACKS à la CARACAS

1 dozen crabs, or six backs and a pint of crab flake
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
A dash of cayenne

Add the seasoning to the crab flakes, and mix without breaking the flakes. Fill the mixture into the backs, put a teaspoonful of butter on the top of each, sprinkle lightly with crumbs, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes,

CRAB MEAT à la DEWEY

1 pint of crab flake
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 red and one green pepper
1/2 pint of chicken stock, or milk
2 tablespoonfuls of sherry
Yolks of two eggs

Drop the peppers into hot fat just a moment and rub off the skin, remove the seeds and chop the flesh fine. Put this, with the butter, in a saucepan, and shake over the fire until the peppers are soft. Add the flour, mix, and add the stock or milk; stir until boiling, add the salt and pepper and the crab flakes. Do not stir, but heat slowly over hot water. When hot, add the yolks of the eggs, beaten with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Heat again, just a moment, being careful not to curdle the eggs, and serve on toast.

This dish is very nice when made in a chafing dish, and will serve six people.

LOBSTER CUTLETS

1 pint of lobster meat
2 level tablespoonfuls of butter
4 level tablespoonfuls of flour
1/2 pint of milk
1 teaspoonful of salt
1 teaspoonful of onion juice
1 saltspoonful of white pepper
1/2 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg
Yolk of one egg
A dash of cayenne

Chop the boiled lobster rather fine with a silver knife, and add to it all the seasoning. Rub the butter and flour together in a saucepan, add the milk, stir until you have a smooth, thick paste, add the yolk of the egg, cook a moment longer, add the lobster, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into cutlet shaped croquettes, dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat. Put a small claw in the end of each cutlet to represent the bone. Serve with these either cream sauce or sauce tartar.

This quantity should make eight cutlets.

LOBSTER NEWBURG