Chapter I: Foreword

This Foreword, were it not for the tyrant Custom, might as well be omitted, since a preface is seldom read. Boldly I make my first appearance before the critical public with no excuses to offer and no apology to the reader for adding another volume to the long list of travel books in the English tongue. But I have reasons why I have ventured into print.

First,—Iceland has a fascination for all who know it. Its history, its ancient and modern literature, its legends and folklore, the people with their customs of a thousand years unchanged, the magnificence and grandeur of its scenery, its bird and plant life, its unexcelled opportunities for the student of geology,—all these and many more, are reasons why all the English speaking people should know something of this ancient branch of the Gothic line from which time and circumstance have separated the Angle and the Saxon.

Second,—There is little or nothing in the English language that is authoritative concerning present conditions in Iceland. Henderson, publishing in 1819, and Miss Oswald in 1882, are the only writers in English who have given to the public a fair and appreciative story of Iceland and its people. True it is that there are a few brief works, mainly the accounts of a sojourn of two or possibly three weeks in the country, but they are of necessity limited in scope of observation and lacking in appreciation of real conditions. A character study of the conservative Icelander may not be completed in a single season, one must live with him to know him.

Third,—The kindness with which my numerous lectures on Iceland have been received by the public and the manifest lack of any definite knowledge concerning this country and its people have led me to place before the public this straightforward, simple tale about the Icelanders with some descriptions of their fascinating land. It is the result of extended travels during the summers of 1909, 1910, 1911 and 1913 through the well known sections and in the out-of-the-way places as well as the unknown portions.

I desire to make the following acknowledgments:—I have both Henderson and Miss Oswald to thank for my first interest and their observations and remarks have ever been in my mind for a comparison with my own experiences. My thanks are due to many Icelanders, to all those who unselfishly opened their doors that I might share their hospitality, more especially to those who in kindness answered my numerous questions, often quite personal, about their countrymen and customs,—in particular do I mention Helgi Zoëga, who has been untiring in furnishing ponies, provisions and sound advice; Steffán Steffánson, who has written many lengthy letters in answer to inquiries; Ólafur Eyvindsson, my friend and trusty guide, whose name frequently occurs in these pages and Dr. Geir T. Zoëga, First Master of the Latin School at Reykjavik, for his advice and council. Finally, I acknowledge my indebtedness to her, to whom this volume is dedicated, for her kindly criticism of these pages while in progress of composition and for the final reading and examination of proofs.

Sir Walter Scott has said in reference to one of his poetical works:—

“…, though scarce my skill command
Some feeble echoing of thine earlier lay,
Though harsh and faint and soon to die away,—
…
Yet if one heart throb higher at its sway,
The wizard note has not been touched in vain.”

And so I say,—if one person acquires an interest in Iceland and its noble people, its history and its ancient tales,—this labor has not been in vain.

_Springfield, Massachusetts, February, 1914._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I HISTORICAL 13
_Outline of Discovery and Settlement._

II THE LURE 31
_Why I Go to Iceland._

III THE WAY 34
_How to Get There._

IV FAROE 37
_The Faroe Islanders, their Manners and their Islands._

V VESTMANNEYJAR 50
_The Westman Islands on the South-west Coast._

VI REYKJAVIK 60
_Educational and Sociological._

VII THINGVELLIR 76
_The Mecca of Iceland, Historical, Descriptive._

VIII GEYSIR 98
_The Greatest Geyser Known._

IX GULLFOSS 117
_Waterfalls, People and Customs._

X HEKLA 131
_Its Ascent, Its History, Its Grandeur._

XI KRISUVIK 157
_Descriptive Customs and Information._

ICELAND REVISITED 182
_An Appreciation._

XII SEYÐISFJÖRÐR 184
_The East Coast, the Scenery and the People._

XIII MÝVATN 204
_The Fairest Spot in All That Land._

XIV KRAFLA 229
_Volcanic, Historical, Experiences._

XV VATNSDALR 243
_Descriptive, Sagas and Romance._

XVI REYKHOLT 275
_Caves, Waterfalls, Hot Springs and Snorri._

XVII APPENDIX 300
_Notes and Corrections._

INDEX 306

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

Mrs. Russell in Festal Costume of _Iceland_, the Author
in Full Dress of the _Faroese_, _Frontispiece_

Cutting up Whale Meat at _Thorshavn_, 38

Heads of the Bottle Nose Whale, 38

_Helgafell_, Volcanic Cone, _Vestmannaeyjar_, 56

A Chain of Basalt Pyramids in _Faroe_, 56

The Hay Market and the Harbor at _Reykjavik_, 66

An Odd Corner in _Reykjavik_, 66

The Latin School at _Reykjavik_, 72

The _Thinghús_, Parliament Building, _Reykjavik_, 72

Foot of the _Öxerá_ in _Almannagjá_, 96

_Lögberg_, Mount of Laws, between the Rifts, _Ármannsfell_ in
the Distance, 96

Bridge River, _Brúará_, near _Geysir_, 114

Tube of _Geysir_ Filling, Photographed from within the Basin, 114

Favorite Ponies, _Sunlocks_ and _Greba_, 158

Mountains of Sulfur, _Solfataras_, at _Krisuvik_, 158

When the Fog Lifted,—Entrance to _Seyðisfjörðr_, 184

Washing Split Cod at _Faskrudsfjörðr_, 184

_Goðafoss_, the Icelandic Niagara, on the _Skjalfandafljöt_, 204

Island Craters in the _Mývatn_, from _Skútustaðir_, 204

Fording a Shallow Arm of the _Mývatn_, Turf Cottage in the
Distance, 218

Contorted, Twisted and Crumpled Lava at _Skútustaðir_, 218

A Hot Water Fall at _Hveravellir_, (Hot Spring Valley), 226

_Slútness_, Crater Island in the _Mývatn_, Home of the Golden
Eyed Duck, 226

Flag of the Arctic Club of America On the Summit of _Krafla_, 238

Obsidian Ridge, _Hrafntinnuhryggr_, near Summit of _Krafla_, 238

_Thverá_, a Highland Home in the _Öxnadalr_, 248

_Vatnsdalshólar_, Numberless Conical Hills in _Vatnsdalr_, 248

The Glacier of _Láng Jökull_ in the _Kaldidalr_, 276

Glaciers and Moraine on _Arnavatnsheiði_, 276

_Árhver_, River Hot Springs near _Reykholt_, 292

_Reykholt_, Ancient Stead of Snorri, Typical Icelandic Farm, 292

ICELAND