Chapter I: Preface

The following sketches pre-suppose, on the part of the reader, a familiarity with English subjects, and with the geography, history and literature of England. The writer has endeavored to avoid the common-places of travel, and has made no allusion to topics which are generally understood, such as the petty annoyances one meets at hotels, and the coldness and phlegm of fellow-travellers. He has also forborne to dwell on the greater evils of English society, because these have been thoroughly discussed and exposed, as well by Englishmen as by foreigners. Besides, our countrymen are kept constantly in view of that side of the matter, and there would be no relish of novelty to excuse him for treating them afresh to whole pages made up of the untrustworthy statistics of Dissenting Almanacs, and the rant of Irish members of Parliament. Although English travellers have often dealt unfairly with us, he prefers to show his dislike of such examples, by forbearing to imitate them. Nor does he regard a different course as due to his love of country. A clergyman who devotes his life to the holiest interests of his native land, and who daily thinks, and prays, and toils, and exhorts others, in behalf of her wants—alike those which are purely religious and those which pertain to letters, to education and to society in general—may surely excuse himself from vociferous professions of patriotism. He freely avows his love of country to be consistent with a perception of her faults and deficiencies, and mainly to consist in a high appreciation of her many advantages; in a sense of responsibility for the blessings of which she has made him partaker; and in a studious desire always to remember what is due to her reputation, so far as his humble share in it may be concerned. Whether at home or abroad, he would endeavour so to act as never to disgrace her; but he cannot sympathize with the sort of patriotism which rejoices in the faults of other countries, or which travels mainly to gloat over them. Least of all, can he share in any petty comparisons of ourselves with our mother country. If there be Englishmen who take any pleasure in our defects, he is sorry for their narrowness; if any American finds satisfaction in this or that blemish of English society, he cannot comprehend it. He considers a sacred alliance between the two countries eminently important to mankind; and he who would peril such interests, for the sake of some trivial matter of personal pride, must be one of the most pitiable specimens of human nature, be he American or Briton.

He has aimed, therefore, to present his countrymen with a record of the pleasures which travel in England may afford to any one pre-disposed to enjoy himself, and able to appreciate what he sees. He confesses, also, that he has though rather confined himself to an exhibition of the bright side of the picture, because he fears that many of his countrymen are sceptical as to its existence. He suspects that Americans too commonly go to England prepared to dislike it, and soon cross the channel determined to be happy in France.

As a great measure of his own enjoyment depended upon the fact, that he mingled freely with English society, he thinks it proper to say that he owed his introductions chiefly to a few English friends with whom he had corresponded for years beforehand. He supplied himself with very few introductions from his native land, and even of these he presented only a part; and in accepting civilities he was careful to become indebted for them, only when he had a prospect of being able, in some degree, to return them. As the inter-communion of the Churches tends to make the interchange of hospitalities more frequent, he was the rather desirous in nothing to presume on the good-will at present existing; the abuse of which will certainly defeat the ends for which it has been so generously promoted.

Having given years to the study of the British Constitution, and to the Literature and Religion of England, he has for a long time been accustomed to watch its politics, and its public men. He has, therefore, spoken of several public characters, both Whigs and Tories, in a manner which their respective admirers will hardly approve, but, as he believes, without prejudice, and as a foreigner may do, with more freedom than a fellow-subject. In such expressions of personal opinion he has given an independent judgment, and he is very sure that many of his English friends will be sorry to see some of his criticisms on their leading statesmen. It is but just to them to say, that in remarks on the Sovereign, and her amiable Consort, the writer has spoken entirely for himself, and with a freedom, in which their loyalty and affection never allow them to indulge. He believes that an impartial posterity will, nevertheless, sustain the views with respect to political matters which he has expressed, and he considers it part of the duty of a traveller, in detailing his impressions, to be frank on such subjects, in avowing “how it strikes a stranger.”

He desires also to confess another purpose, in preparing and publishing this little work. He has aimed to present, prominently, to his readers, the distinguishing and characteristic merits of English civilization. Innumerable causes are now at work to debase the morals of our own countrymen. With the contemporaries of Washington, that high social refinement which was kept up amid all the evils of our colonial position, has well-nigh passed away. The dignity of personal bearing, the careful civility of intercourse, and the delicate sense of propriety which characterized the times of our grandfathers, have disappeared. The vulgarizing influences of a dissocial sectarianism are beginning to be perceived. The degrading effects of sudden wealth; the corruptions bred of luxury; the evils of a vast and mongrel immigration; and not least, the vices communicated to our youth, by contact with the Mexican and half-Spanish populations contiguous to our southern frontier; all these corrosive elements are operating among us with a frightful and rapid result. The contrast with such tendencies, of the sober and comparatively healthful progress of society in our ancestral land, the writer supposes, cannot but be acceptable at least to those of his countrymen who deprecate this deterioration, and who, for themselves and their families, are anxious to cultivate an acquaintance with those domestic, educational and religious institutions which have given to England her moral power and dignity among the nations of the civilized world.

These sketches were originally contributed to the New-York _Church Journal_, but are here given in a revised and complete form. They are a record of the memorable year 1851—a year to which English history will look back as the last, and the full-blown flower of a long peace. The revival of the imperial power in France, at the close of that year, has opened a new era in Europe, the effects of which upon the British Empire can hardly be foreseen.

A. C. C.
_Baltimore_, 1855.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Holyhead—Incidents of the Voyage—Oxford stage-coach and
Stratford guide-post—Easter-bells and Easter solemnities—An
Elizabethan Mansion—A Roger-de-Coverley picture in real life—A
Fancy Chapel—An old fashioned Vicarage.

CHAPTER II.

Aspect of a Cathedral-town—Lichfield Cathedral, its injuries
and restorations—St. Chad, and Stowe-Church—Lord Brooke, his
sacrilege and retribution—Dr. Johnson and his penance—The
Three-Crowns Inn—Evening Service at the Cathedral—A
Midland-county custom.

CHAPTER III.

Brummagem Bishops—American oak in King Edward’s
School—New-England in Deritend—Oscott—Italian
Catholicity—Pugin and the Papists—The Oratory and Mr.
Newman—An Oratorian Sermon—Romish Methodism.

CHAPTER IV.

Scene at a London Railway Station—A drive to
Pall-Mall—Whitehall and Hungerford Bridge—The new Bishop of
Lincoln—The S. P. G. House—Nell Gwynne—Westminster Abbey—The
Jerusalem Chamber—Lord John Thynne—The Coronation Vestments.

CHAPTER V.

Historic Scenes in Westminster Hall—The Scene it presents in
our days—The New Palace and Victoria Tower—The silent
Highway—Lambeth Palace—Chelsea, and Martin the
painter—Whitehall Palace and Garden—Oratorio at Chelsea—Sara
Coleridge and other members of the poet’s family.

CHAPTER VI.

Bury Street, St. James—The Lungs of London—Riding in
Rotten-Row—First view of the Crystal-palace—The venerable S.
P. G.—The Bishop of Oxford—First glimpse of Oxford—Cuddesdon
Palace—A Sermon at St. Ebbe’s—A country Church—Bishop Lowth’s
Epitaph on his daughter.

CHAPTER VII.

Forest-hill—A walk in the country—Miltonian scenery—Mary
Powell’s birth-place—A dame’s School—Milton’s Well—A
neat-handed Phillis—Elucidations on the spot—Sir William
Jones.

CHAPTER VIII.

Oxford—William of Wykeham—New College and its
Gardens—Magdalen—Addison’s Walk—Scene in the
Convocation-house—May-morning hymn on Magdalen Tower—Scenery
of the surrounding country—Morning-bells and a walk in the
College-grounds.

CHAPTER IX.

The Queen’s Progress to the Crystal-palace—The mob in the
Park—The Queen’s return—Her appearance at Buckingham
Palace—Americans at a discount—The interior view of the Great
Exhibition—A high-priced day and a low-priced day—The end of
the bubble—Jack in the Green.

CHAPTER X.

The Chapel Royal of St. James—The Duke of Wellington at his
prayers—The Sermon—The Duke at the Holy Communion—St. Paul’s
Cathedral—How it compares with St. Peter’s—Effect of the
Choral Service—Dean Milman—St. Barnabas’, Pimlico, and its
Mediævalisms—Fashion at St. George’s—The Bishop of
Nova-Scotia.

CHAPTER XI.

Ramblings in London—All-hallows, Barking—First view of the
Tower—The Sovereigns on horseback—Historical relics—The
Armada and its cargo—The block and the axe—The
jewel-room—Laud and Strafford—Prisoners’ inscriptions—The
graves in the Tower-Chapel—The Traitors’ gate.

CHAPTER XII.

House of Commons—Message from the Lords—D’Israeli—Lord
John—The Speaker—The Abbey and Whitehall at dead of night—The
Papal Aggression—The course of the Whigs with the Papists—The
Irish Brigade—Lord John and D’Israeli in a personal
debate—Feebleness of Ministerial measures.

CHAPTER XIII.

Decorations of the House of Lords—Their wholesome moral—The
future of the new Chamber—The Aristocracy—Manners in
Parliament—The Lord Chancellor Truro—The London Police—Their
impartiality.

CHAPTER XIV.

Exhibitions of Art—Westminster Bridge—Lambeth—A wherry on the
River—Temple Gardens and Church—Twelfth-Night—To the ball on
the dome of St. Paul’s—Descent to the Crypts—Nelson’s
Tomb—The Thames Tunnel—Shipping.

CHAPTER XV.

The Cries of London—Covent Garden Market—The Savoy—St.
Clement Danes and Dr. Johnson—Anecdote of Johnson at
Temple-bar—Lincoln’s Inn—Heralds’ College—The Times—The Old
Bailey—A Trial for Murder—A Visit to the Dead—Milton’s
Grave—Grub-street—Chaucer’s Tabard.

CHAPTER XVI.

Charms of Society in London—The London
Season—Breakfast-parties—Dining out—Children at the
Dessert—Evening-parties—Historical Costumes—A literary party
at Lady Talfourd’s—Influence of high refinement on individual
character—Pronunciation—A breakfast at Samuel Rogers’.

CHAPTER XVII.

Exeter College, Oxford—A Sunday at Oxford—Common-room of
Oriel—Visit to Nuneham Courtenay—Parish-school—Society in
Oxford—Life of an Oxonian Fellow—A visit to Dr. Routh—Relics
of Laud—Oxford Martyrs—Libraries and Museum—Chapel of
Merton—A boat-race.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Iffley Church—Radley, and a walk through Bagley Wood—Making a
Doctor of Divinity—A drive through the
country—Parish-stocks—Incidents of the journey—Old
villages—Descent into the Vale of Gloucester—A picture in real
scenery.

CHAPTER XIX.

Worcester Cathedral—Coaching to Malvern—Great and Little
Malvern—Tewksbury—Wars of the Roses—Bredon—Sunday at
Kemerton—May’s Hill—The Cuckoo—Gloucester—The Church at
Highnam—Architectural beauty of Gloucester Cathedral—Effect in
twilight.

CHAPTER XX.

The Old Palace of St. James—Preparations for going to
Court—The procession of carriages—The Presentation—The Queen
and Prince Albert—A drawing-room—The Ladies—Decorations of
the royal apartments—Portraits in the Corridor—Reflections.

CHAPTER XXI.

A visit to Harrow Weald—Ascension Day—Oak-leaves in honor of
the Restoration—Cricket—Evening Service, and a remarkable
Sermon—Coventry—Peeping Tom and Lady Godiva—Kenilworth—The
ruins—Guy’s Cliff—Piers Gaveson—Warwick Castle.

CHAPTER XXII.

Stratford-upon-Avon—The Red-Horse Inn—Geoffrey Crayon—The
Birth-place of Shakspeare—New-Place—Walk to Shottery—The
Churchyard—The Church and Tomb—The Epitaph of Shakspeare’s
daughter—Influence of the Church on the mind of Shakspeare.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Nottingham—Lord Byron’s reputation—The Castle—Derby—The
Wye—Haddon
Hall—Gallery—Chapel—Chatsworth—Matlock-Bath—Shrewsbury—A
Sedan-chair—Welsh Emigrants—Chester—Eaton-Hall.

CHAPTER XXIV.

St. Winifred’s Well—The Vale of Clwyd—Rhuddlan—St. Asaph—A
Welsh Inn—Welsh hospitality—The Welsh service in a rural
Church—The Holy Clerk of Llanerch—Mrs. Hemans—St. Mary’s
Well—Conway Castle.

CHAPTER XXV.

Bangor—Menai Straits, and a Trip to Caernarvon—Llanberis and
Dolbardan—Caernarvon Castle—The Eagle tower—Nant
Ffrancon—Capel Curig—Corwen—Valle Crucis—Llangollen—Miss
Ponsonby and Lady Eleanor Butler.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Gypsies—The Man of Ross—Market day—Monmouth—Tintern Abbey in
a storm—A Vicar’s children—The Wind-cliff—Tintern in
sunshine—The Severn—Clifton, Bristol and St. Mary
Redcliffe—Chatterton—Bristol Cathedral—Mrs. Mason’s tomb—A
dissenting minister—His charity.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Glastonbury—King Arthur’s coffin—Restorations at
Wells—Ordination at Bradfield—Solemnities of the
Jubilee—Willis’s Rooms—A Centenarian—Speeches at St. Martin’s
Hall—The Archbishop in his Study—The Jubilee Sermons—Samuel
Warren.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Jubilee-service at the Cathedral—A Lord Mayor’s Feast—Lord
Glenelg—Eton College—St. George’s Chapel and Windsor Castle—A
Dame’s House—A swim in the Thames—Hampton Court—Pictures and
Cartoons—Hursley Church, and the Poet Keble—Winchester
School—St. Cross Hospital—Relics.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Winchester Cathedral—Wykeham and Wayneflete—Cardinal
Beaufort—Bishop Fox—Stephen Gardiner—The Altar—Reliquary
chests—Izaak Walton—An American Vicar—His
ingenuities—Salisbury Plain and Stonehenge—George
Herbert—Netley Abbey—The Isle of
Wight—Portsmouth—Chichester—Brighton.

CHAPTER XXX.

St. Augustine’s, Canterbury—Queen Bertha’s Church—The
Patriarchal Cathedral—Becket—The Black Prince—Archbishop
Howley—The Dane John—Drive to Borne—The Judicious Hooker—One
of the Squirearchy—Rochester—Westminster Archives—Chapel of
Henry VII.—Grave of Addison—British Museum—Richmond
Hill—Thomson’s grave—Pope’s skull.

CHAPTER XXXI.

The Encænia at Oxford—The uproar—Bedford and John
Bunyan—Fourth of July—The gates of Caius—Comparison of the
two Universities—Chancellor Albert—Old Hobson—The Isthmus of
Sues—Milton’s Mulberry—The small Colleges—The
Fitzwilliam—King’s College—Trinity.

CHAPTER XXXII.

Ely Cathedral—Its beautiful restorations—Peterborough—The
graves of two Queens—A King of Spades—Lincoln and Bishop
Grostete—The Cathedral—Jews’ House—The City of
Constantine—York Minster—Ripon—Fountains’ Abbey—Durham—The
Bishop of Exeter—The University—Newcastle—Amen Corner.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Return from Scotland—Gretna Green—Carlisle—The
Lakes—Windermere—Dr. Arnold’s enthusiasm—An American Sunday
and an English one—Grassmere—A Poet’s Widow—A walk to
Keswick—Cockney rhetoric—Derwentwater—A Poet’s
Sepulchre—Penrith—The Countess’ Pillar—Dotheboys
Hall—Rokeby—Kirkstall Abbey.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

A pilgrimage to Olney—Cowper’s services to
Literature—Anti-Snobbery—Cowper’s pedigree—A
lace-maker—Olney bridge—The
Summer-house—Weston-Underwood—The Wilderness—Cowper’s
Autograph and Adieu—The Greek Slave—White-bait at
Greenwich—The Prime Meridian—The pensioners—Good-night.

CHAPTER XXXV.

Return from the Continent—Despatches—England and Southern
Europe—The Sepulchre of Andrewes—Westminster by
Candlelight—St. Bartholomew’s, Moor-lane—The Anglican
Reformers—Superficial views of travellers—Dissent in
England—Tithes—The late Recusancy—Newman and the Dublin
Review—The English Bible—Conclusion.

IMPRESSIONS OF ENGLAND.