Chapter IV: Part 4

Peaches.--We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the air night and day, and will, therefore, require but little attention, except an occasional washing with the engine, to remove insects and to allow the foliage to perform its functions to a natural decay. If a blank in the house is to be filled up, it may be done as soon as the crop is gathered from the open wall; and the crop to be expected from the same tree next season will depend upon the care with which it is removed, as there will be sufficient time for the wood to be ripened and the tree to make fresh roots, and to get sufficiently established before winter.

Pines.--Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken by giving air freely in favourable weather, to avoid growing the plants weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by a sufficient command of heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given at night and on cloudy days.

Vines.--All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as it is getting too late for them to be benefited by the foliage made after this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is useful to keep the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The bunches to be frequently and carefully looked over and all tainted berries removed, and the foliage kept free from insects. Fire heat is also necessary where the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the fruit is cut it is sometimes necessary to keep the atmosphere dry and rather warm, to ripen the wood.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as possible; for if air is too sparingly admitted at this season, when many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will cause them to produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to damp off at a more advanced period when the inclemency of the external air will cause them to be kept close. Water to be liberally supplied when they are first taken into the house, as the dry boards on which they may stand, or the elevated situation and free circulation of air will occasion a more frequent want of that element than when they stood on the moist earth. However, by no means go to the extreme, but give it only when evidently necessary.

Azaleas.--Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the greenhouse; but the late kinds to remain in heat until their growth is matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom at Christmas, or a little after, they should be kept in heat until the bloom-buds have swelled to a good size, when they will require but very little forcing to start them into bloom.

Bulbs.--Procure and pot them as soon as possible, as much of the success of early forcing depends upon early potting.

Camellias.--Treat them as advised for Azaleas.

Heaths.--Look sharply after mildew, as plants that have been growing freely in a shady situation in the open air, and are in a rather succulent state when taken indoors, are liable to be attacked by this pest, which should be removed on its first appearance by an application of sulphur.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Commence a gradual reduction of the temperature in correspondence with the decline of external heat; by such means the plants will be better prepared to withstand the gloom and other vicissitudes of the winter season.

Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by shifting them, if necessary, into larger pots. They succeed best in a compost of half leaf mould and half loam. They grow luxuriantly in a soil composed entirely of decayed vegetable matter; but in that they are liable to rot off at the base of the stem.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Figs.--Trees in tubs or pots still bearing to be assisted with a little liquid manure when dry. Withhold water gradually from the borders, to induce an early, but not a too premature, ripeness of the wood and an early rest.

Peaches.--The flues of the early house may now be cleaned, and, if not yet done, the lights washed and painted, if necessary.

Pines.--If there are some of the spring fruiting plants still remaining in the fruiting-house, they should either be placed at one end of the pit, or removed to a small house by themselves; the house should then be prepared for the best of the succession plants for the second crop next summer. Plants showing fruit after this time, although they cannot be expected to produce as fine fruit as if earlier in the season, will, nevertheless, be found very useful, and should have every attention given to them while the season continues favourable. To be placed in the warmest corner of the house, and to be supplied when dry with a little liquid manure. Continue to grow on the young stock while the weather continues favourable; for fine sunny days and moist growing nights are all that we can desire. A good portion of solar heat to be secured by shutting up early. On cold nights gentle fires will be necessary to keep up the temperature to 70 deg. towards morning.

Vines.--The Vines that are to be forced early, if the wood is well ripened and all the leaves nearly off, may be pruned without much fear of bleeding, keeping the house as cool as possible; but if, from appearances, the sap is not considered to be sufficiently at rest, the pruning should be postponed. Continue to forward the Grapes not yet ripe by giving a little fire heat during the day. Air to be given to the house as soon as the sun shines upon it, as the vapour that ascends, if not allowed to pass off by ventilation, will cause the Grapes to become mouldy and worthless.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The plants that have been in the open borders during the summer to be taken up, the roots carefully cut back, and repotted; to be placed in a gentle bottom heat, or in some close place, until they have made fresh roots, the better to resist the vicissitudes of the dull, dreary months of the approaching winter.

American Plants.--If a rich display of bloom is desired in early spring, the plants should be now potted in rather small pots, to be plunged in the warmest part of the garden, and introduced to the forcing-house from November until February, as they may be required. The most suitable for such a purpose are the Azaleas of the _nudiflora_ class with various hybrids, _Andromeda pulverulenta_, _Daphne cneorum_, Kalmias, of sorts, _Ledum latifolium_ and _L. thymifolium_, _Polygala Chamoebuxus_, Rhododendrons, and _Rhodora Canadense_.

Calceolarias (Herbaceous).--Remove them to a shelf as near the glass as possible, with plenty of air at all favourable opportunities. To be duly supplied with water.

Camellias.--Water to be given carefully, to prevent the dropping of the buds. The late-flowering plants to be thinned of their buds, leaving not more than two buds on each shoot, and retaining the largest and smallest to get a long succession of bloom. The leaves, if necessary, to be washed clean.

Chinese Primroses.--Place them as advised for Calceolarias.

Cinerarias.--Protect them from the ravages of green fly by the application of the Gishurst infallible compound.

Fuchsias.--Continue to encourage the late stock for bloom. Seeds may be sown at once, where there is a greenhouse or other means of sheltering them from frost and damp; but if you have no such convenience, it is advisable to postpone the sowing until spring. The seed is separated most easily from the pulp by bruising the berries amongst dry sand, and allowing it to stand in the sun, or in a warm place, until the moisture has evaporated, when the seed and sand will be intermixed, and in a fit state to be sown.

Heaths.--On fine mornings syringe them, and Epacrises and Pimeleas, and give all possible ventilation, both night and day, while the weather continues favourable.

New Holland Plants.--Place them in situations to enjoy a considerable share of air and light. All luxuriant shoots to be stopped, to maintain symmetry and uniformity of growth. A vigilant eye should be kept upon them almost daily, to see that neither mildew, green fly, nor other such enemies be allowed to injure them.

Orange Trees.--If they have been standing out during the summer, the sooner they are returned to their winter quarters the better. Clean the leaves, if necessary, and fresh surface the soil in which they are growing.

Succulents.--Cacti, Euphorbiae, and other such plants to be gradually curtailed in the supply of water as they approach the winter and their season of rest.

Tropaeolums.--If any of this beautiful tribe, particularly _T. tricolorum_ or _T. Brachyseras_ that have flowered early in the season, begin to grow, they should not be checked, but allowed to grow slowly through the winter; but if there is no appearance of growth--which is best for their future success--the roots should be kept dormant, in a cool place, with the soil about them quite dry, and protected from mice.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Stove plants cannot be too cautiously watered late in the autumn. Nothing is now wanted but to keep the soil from getting quite dry. Slight fires to be made in the forenoons of dull and rainy days, not so much for the purpose of raising the temperature as for drying the house. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities, to maintain a healthy atmosphere. Several of the Orchids--viz., Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., may be encouraged by the application of a high temperature, with much moisture and less shading, to make further and sometimes considerable growth.

Cattleyas.--Young plants may also be encouraged to grow for some time longer; but older specimens should be reduced to a comparatively dormant state by a gradual diminution in the supply of water, and a decrease in temperature, with less shading.

Stanhopeas.--To be treated as advised for Cattleyas.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Continue to make fresh beds as formerly directed, and prepare fresh material for successional ones. To ensure success it is advisable never to allow the manure to be put together in a dry state, nor to get too far exhausted, but in that medium state when the strong fermentation has passed off, and a moderate heat is likely to remain in it for some time. The temperature to be kept from 60 deg. to 65 deg., with the admission of air for several hours daily.

Cherries.--Whether they are in pots or in borders, and have arrived at, or are only approaching, a comparatively dormant state when but little attention will be necessary, still that little will be required to keep them clear of insects and of the leaves as they become sufficiently ripe, when they come readily off with a touch. The old surface of the soil of those grown in pots to be removed, and the same quantity of fresh, in a rough state, put in its place. Remove them without further delay, if not already done, as advised in the early part of the month, to the north side of a wall or hedge until wanted; or if not wanted until a sharp frost sets in, they should be protected from its icy grasp.

Figs.--Trees in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.

Melons.--Although the weather may have been favourable for ripening the late fruit, they will in some places still require the assistance of a good top and bottom heat, and a large portion of air in the middle of the day.

Peaches.--Trees in pots to be pruned, and treated as recommended for Cherries. No time should be lost if fresh trees are to be planted in the place of any that may be worn out. The choice should be made of young trees that are in a bearing state, and all the better if they had been moved last autumn. In pruning the trees, after the leaves have dropped, be sure not to leave them too crowded; but if the summer pruning, as frequently advised, have been properly done, but very little, if any, will be required now. To remove the leaves from the trees in the early houses it is advisable to shake them daily, and sometimes to brush them gently with a few pieces of birch-spray tied in a bundle. All foreright shoots to be removed, and the trees in the late houses kept free from insects.

Pines.--Persevere in former directions as to general routine management. Whilst fine weather continues air may be given liberally; and shut up earlier in the afternoon to secure as much sun heat as possible. Plants swelling their fruit to be assisted with a brisk temperature, both at top and bottom, from 65 deg. to 70 deg. at night, allowing it to rise to 80 deg. on sunny days with a steady bottom heat of about 80 deg.. When watering is necessary let it be given in sufficient quantity to moisten the whole of the soil. The suckers and crowns that were potted in the summer months should now be shifted, if they have grown freely; they should then be plunged in a brisk bottom heat in the succession-house or pit, from which the plants have been removed, to the fruiting-house. Any remaining suckers on the old stools to be taken off, potted, and plunged in a brisk heat in the nursing pit.

Vines.--The early house, or the first lot of Vines in pots, if it is intended to start them in November or December, to be pruned, that sufficient time may be allowed to heal up the wounds, and the buds to become more plump and prominent. The border of the early house to be thatched with straw, or covered with any other such material, to protect it from heavy rains. It is also advisable in some situations to cover the borders of the houses in which it is intended to keep Grapes late, to prevent the soil getting saturated about the roots. Continue to look over ripe fruit, cutting out the mouldy or tainted berries; applying gentle fires only when necessary to expel damps, with a free circulation of air--as a warm, close atmosphere is as injurious as damp. Where the long-rod system is adopted, the old shoots should be cut down as soon as the fruit is gathered; and, whatever system is adopted, if there are any shoots to remove they should be taken out as soon as they can be spared; the ends of the remaining shoots, if green, to be cut off. Continue to pay strict attention to late Grapes, look over them daily, and cut out every decayed berry.

OCTOBER.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The plants when newly set in the house are very liable to lose a portion of their leaves: these should be removed, and the plants kept supplied with water, so as to preserve the soil moderately moist throughout. Air to be given every day, and also a portion at night, if the weather continue mild.

Bulbs (Dutch).--All kinds to be immediately potted and plunged in a convenient situation ready to be removed, when wanted, to the forcing-house or pit. If potted and treated as advised some time ago, a few of them may now be excited into growth.

Chrysanthemums.--Take up the plants from the open ground; choose a showery day for the purpose. After potting to be well watered and shaded for a few days, then placed in a cold pit, or removed to the greenhouse, and neatly tied to stakes. The buds to be thinned for a fine display.

Gladioli.--Pot them, and Ixias, Sparaxis, &c.; and to be watered sparingly until they begin to grow.

Lily of the Valley.--Pot some, to be treated as advised for Bulbs, that a regular supply of this favourite flower may be had during winter.

Shrubs.--Get in, if not already done. A supply of American plants to be potted, as advised a fortnight ago, and plunged in old tan until wanted for forcing.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Continue to act in unison with the season, allowing the temperature to decline slightly as light decreases. Although the Aerides, Dendrobiums, &c., will continue to enjoy a temperature of 80 deg. by day and 70 deg. by night, the Cattleyas will require 10 deg. or 15 deg. less to bring them to a healthy state of rest; for if kept in constant excitement they will continue to sprout buds from their pseudo-bulbs, which generally adds to the size of the plant at the expense of the blooms.

Achimenes picta.--Promote their growth by every attention, also _Gesnera zebrina_, which adds much to the beauty of the stove during winter.

Begonias.--Encourage the different kinds for winter flowering by giving them larger pots if required.

Euphorbia fulgens and splendens.--These are also worthy of especial attention, as they contribute to enliven the house at the dullest season of the year when flowers are scarce.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cucumbers.--To prolong the season of fine crisp fruit it is necessary to keep the plants clean and healthy by giving them plenty of top and bottom heat.

Figs.--The trees having no fruit likely to come to perfection, and whose leaves are fading, to be kept cool and dry, to induce an early rest. A seasonal rest should also be given by the same means to trees in pots, that they may be in a fit state for forcing early.

Melons.--Continue to maintain a warm, dry atmosphere, to give flavour to the fruit. They will require little or no water after this.

Peaches.--Vacancies to be filled with trees from the walls on the open ground. This is a plan preferable to having young trees from the nursery, which are usually some years in covering the space allotted to them. Where the lights have been wholly removed, after being repaired and painted, they should be put upon the houses to protect the trees and borders from unfavourable weather.

Pines.--Ripening fruit to be kept in a dry, warm atmosphere, to give it flavour. The swelling fruit to have a warm, moist atmosphere. Water to be given to the plants cautiously; every one to be examined before it receives any, and manure water to be dispensed with altogether. The heat of the dung-pits to be kept up by renewing the linings. The crowns and suckers that are planted in the tan to have no water; all they require is attention in giving air and keeping up the heat.

Vines.--Attention to be given to the young Vines in pots that are intended for forcing, that they may not become soddened, which would injure the young roots considerably. Where netting or any other such material had been used over the lights that open in houses containing fruit, to prevent the ingress of wasps, it may be taken down as little mischief will now be apprehended from their attacks. Mice are sometimes very troublesome in vineries at this season, and will spoil a whole house of Grapes in a short time if not prevented. Traps should, therefore, be kept set, and every means used to prevent their ingress from the garden. Cover the border when the trees are planted outside, with a good coat of fern or any other such material before they become saturated and chilled by the autumnal rains, to be laid on thickly in layers, beginning at the front of the border, the whole to be covered with a thin layer of good straw, and fastened down as a thatcher does the straw on stacks.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The plants being cleaned, surfaced, staked, and arranged, they will require but little beyond the ordinary attentions of watering and regulating the admission of air. Plants, when fresh surfaced, sometimes droop without any apparent cause, which generally arises from the roots being very dry; the fresh soil absorbing most of the moisture, and the water escaping between the pot and ball of earth. This is usually brought on by surfacing the plants when dry: as soon, therefore, as the consequences are observed, the plants should be examined, and sufficient water given to wet the ball of earth thoroughly.

Chrysanthemums.--Treat them without further delay as advised in a late Calendar. An occasional and moderate supply of clear liquid manure will assist to develope their flowers to greater perfection. If any indication of mildew appear an application of the flowers of sulphur, when the foliage is damp, will banish it.

Fuchsias.--Encourage the young stock to continue their blooming by the application of a little weak liquid manure. When the flowering is over, and they have lost most of their leaves, they may then be set aside in any corner free from frost for the winter. To be kept moderately dry.

Myrtles.--These and other such evergreen plants requiring protection to be placed in pits or frames, or in any other structure, as near the glass as possible. To be watered regularly; but, like all other plants, care must be taken that they do not get too much at any time during the winter.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

The plants that have taken their rest should be shaken out, and repotted; pruning back such as require it, and placing them in a gentle bottom heat. The Orchids showing bloom--such as the Cypripediums, _Phajus grandifolius_ and _Stenorhynchus speciosus_--to be supplied with plenty of heat and moisture. Some of the other sorts--such as the Catasetums, the Cycnoches, Lycastes, &c., that are approaching their dormant state--to be accommodated, if possible, with a drier and cooler atmosphere. All fast-growing plants--such as Clerodendrums, Vincas, &c.--that require large pots in summer, to be now turned out of their pots, the soil to be shaken from them, and repotted into the smallest sized pots that will contain them, without pruning the roots much at this time.

Climbers.--Some of the most rambling will now want some pruning, more especially where they obstruct the light in any material degree. The Combretums, Echites, Ipomsaeas, Mandevillas, late-blooming Passifloras, Pergularias, Stephanotises, Thunbergias, &c., which are still growing, to be regulated with a more gentle hand, cutting out but little more than barren shoots, and drawing the remainder into somewhat closer festoons, to allow the more free admission of sunlight into the interior of the house.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cucumbers.--The plants for a winter supply of fruit should now be making progress. Keep the vines thin and use every means to keep up a good heat, with liberal admissions of air at all favourable opportunities, to get them strong and vigorous against the winter months. Stop mildew by dusting the leaves with sulphur.

Mushrooms.--Succession-beds to be made according to previous directions. Give a good sprinkling to those in bearing, to produce a genial humidity; and turn the covering material occasionally, to keep them sweet and free from mouldiness.

Peaches.--When the trees in the early house are pruned, it is advisable to cover the cuts, when dry, with white lead, to prevent the admission of air and water to the wound. Wash the trellis, whitewash the flues and walls, and make every part of the house clean. Dress the trees with a mixture of soft soap and sulphur in hot water; to be well rubbed in with a brush or sponge.

Vines.--Continue to look over the ripe Grapes, cutting out any decaying berries. If the fruit is to be kept for any length of time, and if any plants, through want of other accommodation, must be kept under the Vines, they should be watered in the morning, using a little fire heat in the day, with air, to expel damp before night. Whatever system of pruning is adopted, whether the long-rod or spur, it is advisable, when the brown scale is visible, to take off the loose bark, to wash them, and the wires and rafters, with soft soap dissolved in hot water, using a hard brush, being careful not to injure the buds; afterwards to apply hot lime, made to the consistency of thick paint.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The decline of temperature and less watering must go on progressively, more especially in dull weather, with free ventilation at all favourable opportunities. If the weather be cold, use a little fire-heat occasionally during the day, especially where there are many plants in bloom, that ventilation may be given to expel damp and stagnant air.

Cinerarias.--Plants that have filled their small pots with roots to be shifted, according to their size and strength, into larger pots. The compost to be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf mould, and one part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and will thrive tolerably well in a cold pit, protected from frost during the winter. They should be placed on a dry bottom of coal ashes, and kept as near to the glass as possible.

Heaths.--They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse, be kept in a cold pit, or frame, during the winter. Water to be given carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be excluded by mats, or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy by free exposure to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if they are shaded from the sun's rays until gradually thawed.

Mignonette.--Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The soil to be rich, light, and the pots to have a good supply of crocks at the bottom, as the success of growing this favourite plant through the winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage and keeping the plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a hotbed frame will find it useful to start the seeds by moderate heat. Others who have no such convenience may place their pots in a cold frame in a sheltered situation, and upon a floor of rough stones overlaid with ashes.

Pelargoniums.--The more dormant they can be kept during the winter the better. Therefore, only a very moderate supply of water should be given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal supply of air at all favourable opportunities.

Verbenas.--To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the glass as possible. They require plenty of air, the extirpation of green fly, and a moderate supply of water to preserve them in a healthy condition.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Ferns.--Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot to be filled with sandy peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy pieces to form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken over the tops and sides of these pieces of soil, by which there is more probability of some of them vegetating than if they had been sown on a level surface where the whole of the seed would be subjected to the same kind of treatment, which might with ordinary care be either too wet or too dry. The pot to be set in a saucer that contains a little water, which will feed the whole mass with sufficient moisture without a drop being required on the surface of the pot. The seedlings succeed best in a cool part of the stove where evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but they do not like to be continually kept close under a bell-glass.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cucumbers.--Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould, supplying those that are rooting freely with an abundance of atmospheric moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at every second joint, and setting the fruit as the blossom expands.

Strawberries.--It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is large, to lay them on their sides on the south side of a wall or fence, packed in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any other such covering, to protect them from heavy falls of rain until they are wanted for forcing.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs occur about this time, it is essential to apply a little fire-heat during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable activity in the circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead leaves, and the destruction of insects.

Bulbs.--Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c., to flower late in the spring; also the Ixiae and Gladioli, and various other Irideae; and also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &c. They delight in light open soil composed of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an addition to, or substitute for, the peat.

Cinerarias.--Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower as specimens in early spring.

Chrysanthemums to be treated with manure water occasionally. All suckers and spindly shoots to be removed, and the flowers to be thinned.

Pelargoniums.--A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will be of service to drive off the damp and stagnant atmosphere caused by heavy rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the morning; the principal shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly and useless ones removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage a sturdy, short-jointed growth. Two ounces of the Gishurst compound, dissolved in one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the green fly.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Cucumbers.--Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at the second joint; allow the leader to grow to the required length before stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think they are not sufficiently strong to carry a crop.

Peaches.--Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their leaves. If the lights are still off any of the early houses the sooner they are put on the better. An abundance of air to be given.

Pines.--The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from 60 deg. to 65 deg. at night, with an increase during the day in accordance with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or rainy, foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less. Humidity to be considerably reduced, as it tends at this season to produce weak and immature growth. The bark-beds of strong succession plants that are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by having a small quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated by dung will require covering with mats at night: when covered let every other light be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass off. When the covering is off it will escape through the laps of the glass. Take advantage of all opportunities for giving a little air. If it can be done every day, so much the better for the health of the plants.

Vines.--The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned for some time should have the tops or other portions of the immature wood cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the back eyes. If the houses are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed amongst decaying berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a good condition for holding on for a long time.

NOVEMBER.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived, it is necessary to keep all plants that have finished their growth free from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle fire to be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a free circulation of fresh air, and, by closing up early in the afternoon, will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments of ordinary frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in severely, night coverings, if possible, should be applied in preference to fire-heat.

American Plants, &c.--Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, hardy Azaleas, Lily of the Valley, and other plants usually required for winter forcing.

Chrysanthemums.--They will require an abundance of air to prevent the flowers expanding weakly. Keep them well supplied with water, and the leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion of their beauty depends upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost entirely denuded of leaves when in flower, which considerably detracts from what should be their ornamental appearance in the greenhouse or conservatory.

Primroses (Chinese).--Give a few of the strongest and most forward a shift into larger pots. The double varieties are very useful for cutting where bouquets are much in request, as they do not drop the flowers like the single varieties.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Great caution will now be necessary in the application of atmospheric heat and humidity, as an excess of either will cause a premature and unseasonable growth which no after-care could thoroughly rectify. The thermometer for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of the day exceed 60 deg., with a fall of 8 deg. or 10 deg. during the night.

Begonias.--They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants of easy cultivation, and bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; they can also be introduced to the conservatory or sitting-room when in bloom.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Hotbeds.--Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to the linings; but not sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam in the frames.

Peaches.--If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now be filled up. We have before recommended trees of large size to be taken from the walls for this purpose, but in so doing care should be taken to select such sorts as the _Murray_, _Elruge_, and _Violette Hative_ Nectarines; _Noblesse_, _Royal George_, _Grosse Mignonne_, and _Chancellor_ Peaches, being the best adapted for forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, although they may bear abundantly.

Pines.--Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible, to keep up the required heat during the night. The heat of the spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased, so that it may range from 60 deg. to 65 deg.. The winter-fruiting plants to range 10 deg. higher.

Vines.--The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the house dry, and to cut out the decayed berries. It will, we suppose, be generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet weather sets in will keep better than the more backward ones, which may be a useful hint "to make hay while the sun shines," or, in other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and dress the Vines in the succession-houses as recommended for the early ones. When Vines have been taken out of the house they should be protected from the vicissitudes of the weather, as they are sometimes greatly injured by being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; shut up early; use water sparingly, and always tepid--giving little or none to succulents and plants in a state of rest.

Flowers.--Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared for forcing flowers. The glass must be thoroughly cleaned, as light is of importance at this season. The tree leaves when gathered to be mixed with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early action, and about nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in which to plunge the pots. The plants, if in proper condition, may be introduced immediately--viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs, Gardenias, Moss and Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honeysuckles, &c. The Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs that have been potted early, as advised in due season, may be introduced successively in small quantities when the buds are an inch or two long, plunging them in any out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for a time with four or five inches of old tan.

Heaths and New Holland Plants.--Water them sparingly. Dry the atmosphere if necessary by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely.

Pelargoniums.--Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the most forward may be accelerated by a little heat.

Primroses (Chinese).--Water with caution. Two or three small pegs to be stuck into the soil around each, to keep the stem and plant erect in the pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-buds.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down gently to their annual repose by withholding water at the root, by diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and by giving a more liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen kinds--such as some of the Aerides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., to be favoured with the warmest situation.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus.--Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be made for forcing it. Any old Cucumber or Melon-bed that still retains a gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to be placed as closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches of any light soil. The application of linings will supply any deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weather. When the heads come up, to be supplied with an abundance of light and air.

Cherries.--Look over the plants in pots, and if they require shifting into larger pots it may be done at once. The pots to be plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the roots from frost, and where they will commence rooting immediately.

Figs.--If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, as advised, very little, if any, winter pruning will now be required; but if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the leaves fade. The trees to be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, and then painted over with a mixture composed of one ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water. Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as may be necessary. Shifting is only recommended when it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be afterwards placed in a shed with the pots plunged in leaves.

Pines.--The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be encouraged with heat and moderate moisture; but those that are likely to "show" for the next two months to be supplied with a temperature to keep them progressing slowly that they may be just beginning to swell their fruit when the days and sun are lengthening and strengthening. The state of temperature of the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined frequently, as they sometimes become suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and other tree leaves can be collected, it is advisable to use half leaves and half dung for lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the leaves contribute to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no water to the succession plants during dull weather except to such plants as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in consequence.

Sea-kale.--If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small hotbed should be made in some convenient place; the roots to be taken up and placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and protected by boards or any other contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude light and the inclemency of the weather.

Rhubarb.--The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house is at work is the best place for both.

Vines.--All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which fruit is hanging, and the house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and free from anything likely to create mould or damp.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and dead leaves, decaying flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion wherever they touch. Drip to be prevented, and atmospheric humidity to be disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free admission of air.

Azaleas (Chinese).--Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The _A. Indica alba_ and _Phoenicea_ are best to begin with; to be succeeded by _Smith's coccinea_, and after it any of the other varieties. As decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they are invaluable where they continue for six weeks or two months in perfect beauty.

Camellias.--Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid state, and plenty of air, that the buds may be allowed to swell full and prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is required early, to be forwarded by introducing them into a situation where heat is applied.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and such as are sinking into a state of repose. Any late specimens, or importations, making late growths to be favoured with the best light situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality sufficient to produce the secretions necessary to carry them safely through the dull days of winter. Look over all growing plants, and see that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid, even the smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require attention. Repot or surface dress any that require it. A favourable day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of that agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept neat, and free from insects; and the plants on stages, tables, or suspended from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a manner the most suitable for a picturesque and pleasing effect.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough cleansing to the houses by limewashing and dressing the wood of Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently directed.

Beans (Dwarf Kidney).--Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be filled within three inches of the rim with a compost consisting of old Cucumber or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould in about equal proportions. To be placed in any convenient part of the forcing-house for a few days until the soil is warm. The Beans are then sown about ten or twelve in each pot, and pressed by the finger about an inch below the soil. In a week they will be up; to be then thinned out, according to the strength of the plants, to six or eight in each, and to receive a gentle watering. When the two first leaves are fully developed the plants to be earthed up as high as the cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and watered at the roots, taking especial care that they do not become too wet, or they will damp off. When they have made two joints to be stopped, to cause them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The plants to be placed as close to the glass as possible. The _Chinese Dwarf_ and _Fulmer_ are good sorts for forcing.

Figs.--A temperature of about 40 deg. will suit them at present; if allowed to get lower they are very apt to suffer. Trees in pots to be removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept up.

Peaches.--Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an application of weak, clear liquid manure, at the temperature of summer heat (76 deg.), will act as a stimulant to the roots, whose services are required before much excitement takes place at top.

Pines.--Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to be very cautious in regulating the bottom and surface temperatures, more especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom heat of about 70 deg., with a steady top temperature of about 60 deg. during the day, and about 55 deg. during the night, will keep the plants in a comparatively comfortable state of rest, neither allowing the temperature to decline so low as to reduce their vitality to such a degree as to endanger their restoration to vigour in proper season, nor to rise so high as to excite them into a growth that would be immature for want of solar light and heat. A moderate application of water will also be necessary.

Vines.--When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss of time, that the wounds may have sufficient time to get perfectly healed before they are excited into growth. If delayed until early spring, bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for forcing should either be placed within the protection of the house appropriated to them, or secured from the effects of severe weather.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water, when necessary, to be given in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be applied in the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the vapour to pass off. All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be carefully picked off. All weeds, moss on the surface of pots, or anything else that would tend to cause dampness, mildew, or decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off the tops of any of the half-hardy plants that are growing too rapidly.

Climbers.--To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as possible with the admission of light.

Forcing Pit.--The various plants described in former Calendars, and recommended to be forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room, conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require careful and skilful attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on suitable occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the daytime, with air at every favourable opportunity. The pit to be shut up early, and the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in preference to night heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or frequent and moderate fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to destroy green fly. The water to be always tepid when applied to the roots or branches when they require it.

New Holland Plants.--As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to cold draughts of air, and as they are generally wintered in the same house with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants, they should occupy a part of the house where air can be admitted, when necessary, from the top lights only.

Orange Trees.--Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for out-door work, to clean the foliage of Orange trees and Camellias. It is as essential to the health of such things that the foliage be kept clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, as that their roots be kept in a healthy, active state.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus.--Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be procured, of size or substance sufficient only to cause a gentle heat. The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and planted at once in the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, or frames, may be made available for the purpose of forcing Asparagus.

Cherries.--To be treated as advised for Peaches.

Cucumbers.--If the plants are strong, and you have a full command of bottom and atmospheric heat, you may calculate, with a little attention, upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it is safe to do so, to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is indispensable, and steep-roofed houses, or pits, are preferred for that object in winter. The early nursing-box for young plants should be well supplied with linings, the glass washed clean and kept in good repair.

Mushrooms.--Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly directed. The beds that have been in bearing some time, if the surface is dry, to be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a few degrees warmer than the temperature of the house.

Peaches.--The early house should now be set in order, by being thoroughly cleansed, whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and tied. Air to be given during the day, and the house to be shut up at night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the commencement of forcing.

Pines.--The principal objects of attention during this dull season should comprise a moderate declension of heat and moisture, and a moderate supply of air at all times when it can be admitted with safety. When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings will require some sort of covering--as straw, fern, boards, or shutters--to protect them from cold winds, frosts, or rains; only a gentle bottom heat is now required at this, that should be, their season of rest, as a dry and moderately warm atmosphere is nearly all they will require. If the young plants are growing in pits heated solely by dung linings, be careful to exclude the steam from the dung, as excess of damp will rot the hearts of the plants.

Vines.--If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the old-fashioned plan of placing some sweet hot dung inside the house, to produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for softening the wood, and for "breaking" the buds. The roots, if outside, to be covered with a good depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat by fermentation, and to prevent the escape of terrestrial heat. All Vines casting their leaves to be pruned immediately.

DECEMBER.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as possible. Fire-heat to be applied occasionally during dull, dark, or rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature too high--say greenhouse from 50 deg. to 55 deg. by day and from 40 deg. to 45 deg. by night; conservatory 60 deg. by day and 50 deg. by night. Chrysanthemums to be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be succeeded by early Camellias. The _Euphorbia jacquiniflora_ is well worthy of attention now; it requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this season, as the least saturation or interference with the root action will cause the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower. _Poinsettia pulcherrima_ is also worthy of particular attention as a noble ornamental flower at this season. The old _Plumbago Capensis_ and _rosea_ still retain their places amongst our best plants at this season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give, with the other flowers, a variety of colours to beautify the whole. _Gesnera zebrina_ should not be forgotten; the elegant markings of the leaves contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter flower.

Heaths.--As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of plants it is advisable to be very cautious in its application. They can bear a good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without sustaining any very serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying influence of fire-heat without serious damage to their foliage, and which is very frequently death to the plants. They will require but very little water, especially the large specimens, which should be very particularly examined as to their state of dryness or otherwise, as a guide to the application or withholding of water. An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to keep the plants from growing.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The temperature to be kept rather low than otherwise, for fear of exciting premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted on fine days, to purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface of the soil in the pots free from weeds, as also from moss and lichen; but when doing so do not loosen the soil so as to injure the roots near the surface. Keep every plant free from dead leaves, and all climbing plants neatly tied up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various bulbs will now be approaching a state of repose, and therefore will require but little or no water. To prevent confusion or mistakes it is advisable to place them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, by themselves. Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove temperature to keep them safe and sound.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Asparagus and Sea-kale.--Make up beds as wanted.

Mushrooms.--Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the temperature steadily at or near 60 deg.. A fresh bed to be made and spawned every three or four weeks, to produce successional crops.

Pines.--The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and moisture of the house or pit to be kept up. Those intended for the main crop to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at every favourable opportunity, with a day temperature from 70 deg. to 75 deg. and from 55 deg. to 60 deg. at night. Plants in bloom to receive careful attention. Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk temperature, admitting a little fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent them from being injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung linings, constant watching will be necessary to prevent any fluctuation of temperature, having materials at hand to assist in case of frost.